The VAZ 2103 engine is a classic power unit included in the line of engines developed and manufactured by AvtoVAZ OJSC.

Summarizing, we can say that all of this family (2101 - 2130) are developed on the basis of a deep modernized FIAT-124 engine. The changes made by domestic designers concerned the upper camshaft and the center-to-center distances of the cylinders.

It was these changes that made it possible to modernize the engines more than once without stopping their mass production. The 2103 engine differs from the rest of the power units of this model range (except for "") in that the timing shaft is driven by a steel chain.

Specifications

The power unit was installed on VAZ vehicles: 21023, 2103, 21043, 21053, 21061, 2121.

Description

The VAZ 2103 engine is manufactured using a “high” cylinder block (215.9 mm instead of 207.1 y), which made it possible to increase its working volume to 1.5 liters and install a crankshaft with an increased piston stroke.

The unit is a classic version of the engine with an overhead gas distribution mechanism.

The camshaft is driven by a chain drive, and the chain tensioner is not provided. Therefore, the chain tension must be regularly checked and adjusted. In addition, valve clearances must also be adjusted, since the gas distribution mechanism does not have hydraulic compensators.

• The cylinder block is made of cast iron, and its head is cast from an aluminum alloy. The camshaft is made of steel and differs from other models by the presence of one raw neck, which has the shape of a hexagon.
• The carburetor, which is installed on the VAZ 2103 engine, is equipped with a distributor with a vacuum ignition timing controller. After the advent of injection power units, they began to install a modified cylinder head with an appropriate gas distribution mechanism on the motor.
• To operate the water pump (pump), a drive with a V-belt with a cross section of 10x8 mm is used.
• The oil supply from the crankcase to the internal channels of the cylinder block and to the friction pairs is carried out using an oil pump located in the crankcase of the power unit.
• The 2103 engine was equipped with both a classic and a contactless ignition system.

Maintenance

The VAZ 2103 engine has a high degree of unification at the level of parts and assembly units, and therefore its repair associated with the replacement of components does not cause any difficulties.

Like all VAZ power units of that time, VAZ 2103 engines require quite complex and time-consuming maintenance. When carrying out routine maintenance, it is necessary:

1. Every 10-15 thousand kilometers, check and, if necessary, adjust: the tension of the timing chain drive; valve clearances in the cylinder head;
2. Clean and adjust the carburetor regularly.
3. Change the engine oil after every 10,000 km.
4. Regularly check the engine for coolant and engine oil leaks.

According to numerous owners of cars with VAZ 2103 engines, this power unit is one of the most unpretentious and reliable among all engines of the classic engine family.

The only condition is careful regular maintenance and operation in the modes recommended by the car's operating manual. If this requirement is met, the motor resource of the 2103 engine can reach 300 thousand km.

Faults

The 2103 engine is characterized by the same malfunctions as for other classic VAZ engines. Most often found:

There are other malfunctions during the operation of VAZ 2103 engines. In the general case, it is better to diagnose engine malfunctions in a specialized service station.

tuning

You can add power to the 2103 motor in various ways:

The easiest way is to bore the cylinders to a diameter of 79 mm. This will increase their total volume to 1.6 liters. Installing pistons with a diameter of 79 mm allows you to increase power to 75 hp. With. In this case, the torque will be 115 Nm at 3,000 rpm.

1. A further increase in power can be achieved by increasing the piston stroke to 84 mm. For this, TRT pistons and a crankshaft from the VAZ 2130 are used. This crankshaft is usually used in cases where they want to increase power and torque at low and medium speeds. At the same time, engine power will increase to 80-85 hp. With.
2. There is a more complex tuning option, in which: bore and polish the channels of the cylinder head and intake manifold; select the appropriate camshaft. Properly selected parts allow you to increase engine power up to 100 hp. With.
3. The installation of a 0.5 bar compressor together with a modified cylinder head makes it possible to increase the power of the power plant to 125 hp. With.
4. More expensive ways to increase the power of the 2103 motor are also possible, however, the price of components and the payment for work associated with finalizing parts, assembling the engine and adjusting it, may exceed the cost of both the engine and the car as a whole.

14.04.2017

For the rear-wheel drive sedan VAZ-2103 (LADA 1500) or simply “troika”, the domestic manufacturer initially provided for a new 2103 engine with a displacement of 1.5 liters, built on the basis of 2101. Also in this model, proven engines from a “penny” for 1 .2 liters and from the VAZ-21011 by 1.3 liters. VAZ 2106 engines for the third Zhiguli model were produced in small quantities.

Engine VAZ 2103

The 1.5-liter four-cylinder carburetor in-line power unit VAZ 2103 received an overhead camshaft, a timing chain drive and a high engine block, which allows you to install a crankshaft with an extended piston stroke.

Zhiguli engines often “sin” with camshaft wear or the absence of a tensioner in the drive chain, which must be tightened every 10 thousand kilometers. If a loud knock occurs in the engine, it will be necessary to adjust the valve clearances in order to avoid a drop in power, increased fuel consumption, valve burnout and other things.

Also among the shortcomings of the engine for the "troika" is the need for constant adjustment and cleaning of CO. If the motor overheats, pay attention to the pump.

If you experience tripling, you need to change the compression.

Engine tuning is possible in a wide range: from boring to compressor and turbines.

Among motorists, the VAZ-2103 engine is in good standing, compared with other units of the line. The long service life is due to the availability of spare parts and their low cost. With a careful attitude to the engine and timely maintenance, the VAZ-2103 will travel not 125 thousand km declared by the manufacturer, but all 180-200 thousand kilometers.

Engine VAZ 2106

The 1.6-liter VAZ 2106 engine became a continuation of the VAZ 2103 and, as a result, 2101. The main differences from their counterparts are in the piston with a diameter increased to 79 mm, while the engine block remained unchanged.

There is also an injection unit 21067, which differs in a covered cylinder head from the Niva-21214 injection engine. Practice has shown that the "six" carburetor is more stable than the injector.

In general, the VAZ 2106 in-line engine has 4 cylinders, an overhead camshaft and a chain drive. Despite the possible resource of up to 180-200 thousand kilometers among motorists, the VAZ-2106 is considered less reliable than the "three rubles". For the successful functioning of the "six" engine in winter, it has to be heated for at least five minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.

The disadvantages of the VAZ-2106 include increased requirements for oil, which can affect the increase in cylinder diameter. It often happens that the oil consumption is a liter or more per thousand kilometers, which requires the replacement of rings, valves or other things.

Also among the minuses of the "six" is increased camshaft wear, engine detonation, engine knock due to defects in piston pins or connecting rod bearings. With unstable operation of the carburetor engine, pay attention to the jets. A stalling engine at idle requires adjustment of the air damper.

When the engine heats up or boils, you need to inspect the thermostat, radiator and the presence of air in the cooler.

The tripping of the 2106 engine is caused by improperly adjusted valves, valve burnout, spent cylinder head gaskets and low-octane gasoline.

The vibration of the motor is affected by worn pillows 2106, as well as the imbalance of the crankshaft and cardan.

You can add power to the VAZ-2106 by boring the engine by 33 mm under the piston by 82 mm, you can’t bore it anymore, since the walls of the block become thinner.

Engine VAZ 21011

The power unit VAZ 21011 for 1.3 liters is an improved version of the "penny" motor. The main difference is the increase in the piston diameter to 79 mm, which made it possible to add volume and successfully arrange a short piston stroke and a good cylinder diameter, guaranteeing the unit high speeds, modest fuel consumption and confidence on the road.

All the disadvantages of 21011 are identical to the disadvantages of the 2101 engine.

Engine VAZ 2101

The 1.2-liter VAZ 2101 power unit became the basis for the entire VAZ family. Unlike their prototype, the FIAT 124 engine, domestic engineers increased the center-to-center distance, which subsequently made it possible to “play” with the engine displacement, which varied from 1.2 liters to 1.8 liters.

VAZ 2101 is an in-line carburetor unit with 4 cylinders, an overhead camshaft and a timing chain drive. Engines 1970-74 release turned out to be more reliable, since their production was controlled by FIAT specialists.

The disadvantages of the VAZ-2101 include increased camshaft wear, the need to constantly adjust valve clearances. Oil consumption on the "penny" reaches 0.7 liters per 1000 km.

Due to thermostat defects, the motor often heats up. Overheating of the motor 2101 is also indicated by a fan failure, a pump breakdown, and low-quality fuel.

The smoky VAZ 2101 is caused by burning of piston rings, wear of valve seals, processing of guide bushings, and so on, which will force the car to be handed over for engine overhaul. As experienced owners of cars with a VAZ 2101 engine note, the disadvantages of the unit can be listed and repaired endlessly.

Select it and press Ctrl + Enter

Demand for Datsun brand cars is constantly decreasing. All this happens because all models have an outdated design and primitive body design.

But recently it became known that the upgraded Datsun GO and GO + will go on sale in October.

Compact vans appeared on sale 5 years ago. And so both models received a new transmission - the X-tronic variator. The automatic transmission itself is far from new, it is also installed on the Nissan Juke.

As an engine, only a single atmospheric engine with a volume of 1.2 liters and a power of 68 hp is available to customers.

The GO+ version differs from the regular GO only in the number of seats. There are seven of them in GO+, and only five in GO.

The equipment of the updated models has been slightly replenished. Now the top-of-the-line equipment has: a course stability system, an Airbag add-on, a multimedia system that can connect to smartphones.

The price for the updated cars was not disclosed. Recall that you can buy Datsun Go in the Indian market at a price of 332,078 rupees (299,000 rubles). And Datsun Go + will cost at least 386,588 rupees (349,000 rubles).

Many drivers, even with extensive driving experience, have encountered a situation where the air leaves the tubeless wheel, but there are no visible punctures and cuts on it.

They cannot be detected even by a professional tire fitting worker. What can be the reason for such depressurization of the wheel, and what can be the way out of this situation?

Most modern car models are equipped with tubeless tires. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that they allow you to maintain the existing pressure in the tires with minor damage, for some time. This is the reason that this type of rubber is considered the safest, since rubber with a chamber can burst when driving at high speed.

Puncture detection methods. The most common tire deflation is due to a puncture or side cut. However, it often happens that the driver cannot locate the damage that caused such a depressurization. To do this, he has to contact the tire shop. Even if this happened during a trip, in the countryside, the best option would be to replace the damaged wheel and diagnose it in a tire shop.

In this case, the tire fitting worker acts as follows. First, he raises the pressure in the wheel by 1-1.5 atmospheres above the norm, and tries to catch by ear where the air is leaking. In the absence of a result, it becomes most likely that he will wet the alleged leak with soap and water and will look for it in this way.

If this does not help, there are two options. The first is to dip the wheel completely into the water, and look for air bubbles escaping at the leak. If the cause is a sharp object that has fallen into the wheel, then you will have to disassemble the wheel and run a rag over its inner surface, which will definitely catch on it.

No damage to rubber. If the master did not manage to find the damaged area of ​​rubber, then there are only two reasons why the wheel can be lowered - damage to the disc or damage to the nipple. In the first of these, the tire cannot fit snugly enough to the disc due to its deformation. This may be the result of hitting at high speed on an uneven road or in a deep hole. If it is still in a repairable condition, rolling on a special device to restore its original shape can correct the situation.

The cost of this action will depend on the shape of the disc, as well as its type - cast or stamped.

If the problem is in the spool, then it is easier to replace it due to its cheapness.

Foreign objects. Another reason for the loose fit of the rim and, accordingly, the possibility of air escaping, is sand or rust getting between it and the rubber. Although in this case, the air does not come out of them as quickly as in the case of a puncture or cut. To fix the wheel, remove the wheel, clean the rim well, and then lubricate the joint with a special silicone-based lubricant. In the absence of other reasons, the leakage will stop.

The last point can be low air temperatures, which can also cause air loss from car rubber. When moving, the situation is reversed - as a result of heating the rubber, the pressure rises.

Outcome. Proper maintenance of tubeless tires will help ensure safety and extend their lifespan. In addition, it is also worth paying attention to compliance with the norms of the air pressure level in the tires.

Many myths about cars and their manufacturers are popular among motorists. For example, some drivers warm up their vehicles even in summer, they believe that police cars are much more equipped than ordinary citizens, large cars are more reliable than small ones. In fact, most of these myths are not confirmed, but there are those that have been verified by science.

Electric cars do not pollute the environment. It is generally accepted that about 80% of cars, including electric cars and hybrid models, are recyclable and do not harm the environment. In fact, no manufacturer has yet been able to experimentally confirm the benefits of electric vehicles.

Well-known in the CIS, the VAZ 2101, 2103-06 or Niva models are usually called "classics". The power units on these machines are still very outdated today, however, given their prevalence, there are many who want to finalize the indicated ones.

Taking into account the fact that the engines themselves are quite simple, they do not have, such tuning of the VAZ classic engine can be done even by yourself in a garage. The main thing is to have at hand all the necessary tools for disassembling the internal combustion engine, the necessary spare parts, as well as the availability of knowledge and skills.

It is also important to consider that after installing a different crankshaft and increasing the piston stroke, an increase occurs, which will require the use of gasoline with a higher octane rating. You may also need to adjust the compression ratio further. The main thing is to choose the right shortened pistons, connecting rods, etc.

We also add that the simplest and cheapest method can be considered a boring for repair pistons. However, even if the block is bored to the last repair size, the volume increases by no more than 30 “cubes”. In other words, it is not worth counting on a significant increase in power in this case.

Other engine modifications: intake and exhaust

If we take into account the recommendations of experts, in order for the engine to turn out to be revving, one should not strive to increase its volume beyond the 1.6 liter mark. An increase in volume above this indicator will mean that the engine is “heavier” and spins up less intensively.

As for improvements, special attention should be paid not only to the block, but also. The refinement involves grinding the cylinder head channels through which fuel flows from the intake manifold. It is important to achieve not only a larger channel cross section, but also a smooth transition, and also so that all channels end up the same.

The next step is to upgrade the exhaust channels and. The channels are polished, and the valves can even be replaced. For example, a suitable option is selected (it is also possible from a foreign car), after which the valve stems are processed to fit the dimensions for the VAZ engine.

In parallel, valve plates should also be processed. It is important to adjust all valves by weight. Separately, it is worth approaching the issue of installation. In order for the engine to pull well from the bottom and at high speeds, it is optimal to select a camshaft that provides high valve lift. In parallel, a split gear is also needed for fine tuning.

What is the result

The washed and cleaned cylinder block is installed on the stand and the missing studs are wrapped.

Lubricate with engine oil cylinders, pistons, oil seals, bearing shells and thrust half rings of the crankshaft. Inserts without a groove on the inner surface are placed in the seat of the middle main bearing and in its cover, and in the remaining seats and in the corresponding covers - liners with a groove. The crankshaft is placed in the main bearings and two thrust half rings are inserted into the seats of the rear support with recesses to the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft; moreover, a steel-aluminum semi-ring is placed on the front side of the rear support, and a ceramic-metal (yellow) semi-ring is placed on the back side. On engines manufactured before 1980, it is also necessary to install a ceramic-metal semi-ring.

Install the main bearing caps according to the marks. Then check the axial clearance of the crankshaft (the clearance between the thrust washers and the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft). For this, indicator 1 is installed, as shown in the figure, and shaft 2 is moved with screwdrivers, checking the axial clearance on the indicator, which should be within 0.06-0.26 mm. If the gap exceeds 0.26 mm, the thrust half rings are replaced with others, new ones of normal size or repair ones, increased by 0.127 mm.

The gasket of the rear oil seal holder is put on the crankshaft flange, and the bolts of the front cover of the clutch housing are inserted into the sockets of the holder. The holder with the stuffing box is put on the mandrel 41.7853.4011 and, having moved it from the mandrel to the crankshaft flange, is attached to the cylinder block. The front cover 6 of the clutch housing is installed along two centering bushings.

Mandrel 41.7853.4011 for installing the holder with an oil seal on the crankshaft

Install the flywheel on the crankshaft so that mark B is opposite the axis of the connecting rod journal of the fourth cylinder.

After that, block the flywheel with lock A.60330/R and attach it to the crankshaft flange.

Using a bushing from the set A.60604 for engines 2101 and 2103, or 02.7854.9500 for engines 21011 and 2106, or using an adjustable bushing 67.7854.9517, pistons with connecting rods are inserted into the cylinders. The "P" mark on the pistons should be facing the front of the engine. Bushing sets for crimping piston rings during installation of pistons in cylinders include four bushings - one for nominal size pistons and three for oversized (repair) piston sizes. Therefore, it is necessary to select a bushing suitable for the size of the piston to be installed.

Install the liners in the connecting rods and connecting rod caps, connect the connecting rods to the necks of the crankshaft and tighten the connecting rod bolts. The caps are installed so that the cylinder number on the cap is opposite the cylinder number on the bottom head of the connecting rod.

They put an asterisk, an oil pump drive roller on the crankshaft and fix it with a thrust flange.

Two centering bushings on the block install the gasket and the cylinder head assembly with the intake pipe, exhaust manifold and valve mechanism. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two steps, as indicated in Sect. Removal and installation of the cylinder head.

Loosen the nuts of the valve adjusting bolts and wrap the adjusting bolts deeper so that the valve levers are lowered and do not interfere with the installation of the bearing housing with the camshaft.

Turn the flywheel so that the mark on the crankshaft sprocket matches the mark on the cylinder block. They put (previously) an asterisk on the camshaft, assembled with the bearing housing, and turn it so that the mark on the sprocket is against the mark on the bearing housing. Then they remove the sprocket and, without violating the position of the camshaft, install the bearing housing on the cylinder head and fix it by tightening the nuts in a certain sequence. After that, a chain damper is installed on the cylinder head.

Install the camshaft drive chain in the following sequence:

• lubricate the chain with engine oil, put it on the camshaft sprocket and insert it from above into the drive cavity, positioning the sprocket so that the mark on it matches the mark on the bearing housing. Then install the lock washer and the sprocket mounting bolt, without tightening it all the way;
• an asterisk, a lock washer, and a bolt are put on the oil pump drive roller, without completely tightening it;
• put the chain on the crankshaft sprocket and install the chain tensioner shoe and tensioner without tightening the cap nut so that the tensioner spring can press the shoe; wrap the restrictive finger of the chain in the cylinder block;
• turn the crankshaft two turns in the direction of rotation, which will provide the necessary chain tension, and check that the marks on the sprockets match the marks on the cylinder block and on the bearing housing. If the marks match, then, having blocked the flywheel with lock A.60330 / R, finally tighten the sprocket bolts, the cap nut of the chain tensioner and bend the lock washers of the sprocket bolts. If the marks do not match, then repeat the operation to install the chain.

Adjust the gap between the camshaft cams and the valve levers. Install the camshaft drive cover with gasket and oil seal on the cylinder block, without finally tightening the bolts and nuts. Mandrel 41.7853.4010 center the position of the cover relative to the end of the crankshaft and finally tighten the nuts and bolts of its fastening. Install the crankshaft pulley and wrap the ratchet.

Lubricate the oil filter O-ring with oil and install the filter by manually screwing it to the fitting on the cylinder block. Install the crankcase ventilation oil separator, breather cover and fix the retainer of the oil separator drain tube. Install the oil pump and oil sump with gasket.

Install the coolant pump, alternator bracket and alternator. Put the belt on the pulleys and adjust its tension. The inlet pipe of the heater radiator and the exhaust pipe are mounted on the cylinder head. Attach the heater core outlet pipe to the coolant pump and exhaust manifold. Install the sensors of control devices, the oil pump drive gear and the ignition distributor.

They put the ignition distributor, for which:

• remove the cover from it, check and, if necessary, adjust the gap between the contacts of the breaker;
• turn the crankshaft until the start of the compression stroke in the 1st cylinder, and then, continuing to turn the crankshaft, align mark 4 with mark 2;
• turn the rotor to a position in which its outer contact will be directed towards the contact of the 1st cylinder on the cover of the ignition distributor, and, holding the distributor shaft from turning, insert it into the socket on the cylinder block so that the center line passing through the spring latches , was approximately parallel to the centerline of the engine.

Fix the distributor on the cylinder block, install the cover and attach the wires. Screw the spark plugs into the cylinder head, install the key 67.78J2.9515 on them and tighten with a torque handle.

The fuel pump is mounted according to the instructions in the "Removal and installation of the engine and its components" section. They put a heat-insulating shield with gaskets, a carburetor and attach hoses to it. The carburetor is closed with a technological plug. Install the cylinder head cover with gasket and fuel line bracket. Pour oil into the neck on the cylinder head cover.

Engine VAZ 2103

Engine Specifications 2103

Years of issue - (1972 - our time)
Cylinder block material - cast iron
Power system - carburetor / injector
Type - in-line
Number of cylinders - 4
Valves per cylinder - 2
Piston stroke - 80 mm
Cylinder diameter - 76 mm
Compression ratio - 8.5
Engine displacement 2103 - 1452 cm3
Engine power 2103 - 71 hp /5600 rpm
Torque - 104 Nm / 3400 rpm
Fuel - AI93
Fuel consumption — city 9.4l. | track 6.9 l. | mixed 8.9 l/100 km
Oil consumption - 700 gr per 1000 km
Engine weight vaz 2103 - 121kg
Overall dimensions of the engine 2103 (LxWxH), mm - 565x541x665
Mas lo for the vaz 2103 engine:
5W-30
5W-40
10W-40
15W-40
How much oil is in the engine 2103: 3.75 liters.
When replacing, pour about 3.5 liters.

Engine resource vaz 2103:
1. According to the plant - 125 thousand km
2. In practice - up to 250 thousand km

tuning
Potential - 200 hp
Without loss of resource - 80 hp

The engine was installed on:
VAZ 21023
VAZ 2103
VAZ 21043
VAZ 21053
VAZ 21061
VAZ 2107

Malfunctions and repair of the VAZ 2103 engine

Engine VAZ 2103 1.5 liters. carburetor in-line 4-cylinder with an overhead camshaft, timing engine 2103 has a chain drive. The VAZ 2103 engine block is high, more on that below. The resource of the 2103 engine, with careful operation, timely maintenance, exceeds the 125 thousand km established by the plant and reaches 180-200 thousand km.
The main differences between the 2103 engine and the increased block height by 8.8 mm from 207.1 mm to 215.9 mm for the possibility of installing a crankshaft with an increased piston stroke, due to which the engine volume increased to 1.5 liters.
As noted in previous articles, there is a problem of camshaft wear in Lada engines. Due to the fact that the chain drive does not have a tensioner, you need to tighten the chain, the engine also needs constant (every 10 thousand km) adjustment of valve clearances, this will be indicated by a loud knock in the VAZ 2103 engine when the engine is idling, audible from the spot driver with the hood closed. Many people have a question, why adjust the valves, the answer is simple - power will decrease, fuel consumption will increase, the valve will burn out and many other joys of life. Adjusting the valves of the VAZ 2103 engine must be done either by the master or by hand. For other issues,Weber and Ozone carburetors constantly require CO adjustment and cleaning. It often happens that the VAZ 2103 engine is heating up, look for the problem in the pump, 99% this is it. Often, when the engine troit at 2103, there may be a lot of reasons, more often the valve burns out, in any case, it is necessary to measure the compression and show the car to the master. Many malfunctions of the VAZ 2103 engine repeat the problems of 2101, due to their close relationship. For a more complete picture and not to miss anything, read about.
However, pAccording to popular opinion, the 2103 engine is the most reliable and unpretentious among the classic line of engines, and given the prices for spare parts for the VAZ 2103 engine, one should not be surprised why the classic is still driving along our streets.

Tuning engine VAZ 2103

Boost engine 2103

There are a lot of methods for finalizing the VAZ 2103 engine, like all classics, from boring to a compressor with turbines, but let's start in order. How to boost a vaz 2103 engine, the cheapestand simple tuning of the VAZ 2103 engine was and remains a cylinder bore of 3 mm under a 79 mm piston from a VAZ 21011 or from a VAZ 2106, we have 1.6 liters at the output. Sharpening further, under 82 mm will not work due to the too thin walls of the block.
To further increase the volume, you need to increase the piston stroke to 84 mm. Increasing the volume in this way reduces the maximum operating rpm, the bottom engine is not the best choice for racing, but still. To increase the power of the VAZ 2103 engine with a piston stroke, they put the VAZ 2130 crankshaft, and also use the TRT piston, the connecting rods shrink to 134 mm. The disadvantages of TPT pistons are their lower strength compared to standard ones, the thermal load on the ring and the likelihood of piston burnout.

Engine bore 2103

1.6 l. 79x80 ~75 hp
Maximum torque ~115Nm at 3000rpm
With this configuration, we get exactly the motor 2106.
- larger diameter piston, standard stroke
1.7 l. 79x84 ~ 80 hp
Torque motor, non-racing configuration.

How to boost the VAZ 2103 engine by fine-tuning the cylinder head

On the triple motor, the cylinder head VAZ 2101 is used, the main drawback of which is that it was developed for low-volume units. Accordingly, the flow sections of the channels do not correspond to the increased volume, this must be corrected by boring and polishing the channels.
Polishing and boring the channels of the cylinder head of the VAZ 2103 and the manifold will significantly reduce the intake resistance, the engine power in the entire range is increased by 10%. How to polish and which shafts to select is described in the article “Tuning VAZ 2101”, due to the identity of the motors, all this applies to the engine of the Lada troika. The refinement of the 2103 engine does not end there, a properly selected camshaft for 2103, as well as a modified head, can show more than 100 hp.

Camshaft for VAZ 2103

The rule for choosing a camshaft is simple, on the downstream configuration, when the piston stroke is large and it is larger than the cylinder diameter, you need to take the downstream shaft with a phase of up to 270, the valve lift is larger. Such an engine will turn out to be quite high-torque, urban and will go much better than the standard, while high revs will disappear. Which camshaft to choose for the bottoms, an Estonian 1, a Nivovsky shaft 213 or something similar in terms of parameters will do. With a riding configuration, we accordingly select a wide-phase riding shaft with a large valve lift.The camshaft Mastermotor 48, OKB Engine 480 and the like will fit into the standard head without modifications. More wide-phase will require additional work. The disadvantages of shafts with a wide phase are traction on the bottoms, the meaner the shaft, the worse it goes from below and uneven idling, but losing the bottoms, we gain high power at the top. In which direction to move and whether it is worth moving at all, it is up to you, the basic and most popular principles for forcing the 2103 engine were presented to you as simply and accessible as possible.

Compressor for classic

The compressor for 2103 is an excellent option to inflate a Zhiguli inexpensively, in stores there are ready-made installation kits with a pressure of 0.5 and 0.7 bar from an autoturbo. Installing a 0.5 bar compressor on a classic is quite simple and requires a minimum of modifications; paired with a modified cylinder head, the engine produces more than 125 hp. Against this method is the price of all activities.

Turbo classic

This is, without a doubt, the most expensive and unprofitable method of boosting the VAZ 2103 engine. The first point of your costs will be the transfer of the engine to the injector. Then we get a turbo kit for the classics, prices from $ 1.5 thousand. Most of the whales are built on the basis of the Garrett GT17 turbine, they stand up without modification of the piston, but blow up to 0.5 bar. In this case, the classic compressor is more rational. In the case of a total refinement of the 2103 engine, with the replacement of the piston, the installation of the correct turbo shaft (phase 270-280, maximum rise), this kit will give out up to 1.2 bar with a power of more than 140 hp. The cost of such alterations will cost more than the car itself, even without taking into account the chassis, gearbox, brake system and other things 😀