21.10.2023

MTB contact pedals. Converting regular sneakers into clipless cycling shoes

Pedals consist of 2 parts: a pedal and a cleat, which is screwed to the sole of the shoe using bolts. The cleats are usually included with the pedals. If lost or damaged, you can easily find replacement spikes at any time, but it will cost a pretty penny.

Types of contact pedals
Standards for attaching a cleat to a pedal are divided into road and MTB. This determines what shoes you will subsequently need to purchase. It is also worth remembering that not a single contact pedal is equipped with protection from dirt or snow (in case of winter riding). And if the spikes are clogged, you need to clean them.

Shimano SPD
The most famous type of pedals, which is designed for mountain bikes. Despite the high availability, the quality remains high, sometimes even after tens of thousands of kilometers. Depending on operating conditions, they will most likely last 2 years or more.

The appearance of signs of pedal wear in the form of axle play requires a special wrench. Similar problems are cured in more expensive models. You can disassemble them with ordinary tools. Fans of construction sets in childhood will have to work hard here. Moreover, the price-to-expected mileage ratio is more than acceptable.

Some complain about the disadvantage of lack of freedom for their legs in the horizontal plane. In case of non-standard foot placement, the cyclist will have to come up with something, due to the inconvenience that arises. As practice shows, people find different ways to solve the issue.

Shimano SPD-SL
This standard is used for road pedals. The design of road pedals is such that the foot is fixed as rigidly as possible. Unlike the SPD standard, there is no backlash on the SPD-SL.

It is necessary to take into account that the spikes on road shoes almost do not allow you to walk freely due to the fact that they protrude so much from under the feet. A set of road pedals and shoes is recommended for those who plan to spend a significant amount of time in the saddle, covering kilometer after kilometer on asphalt.

Crank Brothers
First of all, their simplified design is attractive when compared with the above-mentioned Shimano. The Crank Brothers Egg Beater fits in very nicely. Here's a comparison: Shimano pedals clip in as if something had been dropped from a high-rise building, while Crank Brothers pedals are almost silent. The cyclist will also be pleased with the greater leg freedom in the horizontal plane. The pedals work great in muddy conditions: one way or another, the owner will buckle up.

However, there are some drawbacks: the durability of these pedals, judging by numerous reviews, is somewhat less than that of the famous Japanese ones. And this comes at a higher price. From an aesthetic point of view, they look great, but require frequent replacement of bearings and studs. The choice is up to the future owner.

Time Attack
Let's also consider the Time Atac model. The feeling when riding them is more than pleasant. Simple fastening, complemented by reliable fixation of the leg. The disadvantage is that the cleats on the pedals wear off quickly and there is still some play.

The forums loudly claim that Time's budget models are not worth attention. But more expensive models last quite a long time, just change the studs and that’s it.

Look Quartz
There are a lot of good reviews about these pedals, they also say that they are comfortable in dirty weather and that the cleats do not wear out for a long time. But the general impressions of practicality and reliability are unclear.

Which pedals to choose?
In general, the most optimal and practically does not require the expenditure of time, effort and money is Shimano. Especially for ordinary fans. If we take a specific model as an example, then Shimano M520. And you don’t have to worry about contacts for 5000-7000 km.

For frequent driving through forests or swamps, as well as in places with clay soil, it is better to choose any Crank Brothers or Look Quartz model. For those who often change contacts to stompers and vice versa, Shimano 324 is suitable. They have a simple surface on one side and a contact spike on the other side.

Which cycling shoes should you choose?
It's easier with shoes. Here you need to choose between hiking or sports shoes. Do you have to go often? It is better to choose contact shoes specially designed for this purpose. In the case of Shimano, these are shoes with the letters MT. If you spend a lot of time on a bike, sports models are much better. Stiff sole, adjustable clasp and overall better foot support. You can walk in such boots, but it will be extremely uncomfortable.

It is often mentioned that Shimano shoes run small and you should take 1 size larger. If it is additionally indicated that the shoe last is wide, then you can get boots that will fit your feet in a warm sock, and therefore skiing in winter will be more comfortable. Bicycle shoe size is a very important indicator. The leg should be well fixed in it, but nothing should press. Otherwise, pain will be felt at long distances.

Clipless pedals are a very unique thing that you need to “grow into.” Another question is what shoes to choose for this type of pedals. Both the first and second questions require a little knowledge. This is exactly what the article is about. Pedals consist of 2 parts: a pedal and a cleat, which is screwed to the sole of the shoe using bolts. The cleats are usually included with the pedals. If lost or damaged, you can easily find replacement spikes at any time, but it will cost a pretty penny.

Shimano SPD-SL
This standard is used for road pedals. The design of road pedals is such that the foot is fixed as rigidly as possible. Unlike the SPD standard, there is no backlash on the SPD-SL.

The forums loudly claim that Time's budget models are not worth attention. But more expensive models last quite a long time, just change the studs and that’s it.

Where it all started. I had a pair of Shimano M-520 clipless pedals. It was necessary to try what it is - contacts and if you like it, then invest in good branded shoes, ordering them in the online store. And so that all this is reliable and safe for the feet, and the feeling of use is not much different from branded shoes. And as cheaply as possible. Yes, saving money was one of the first places, but this was not decisive. It was simply interesting to do this, to solve a non-standard design problem, and as efficiently and technologically as possible, with an eye to repetition by those who wish.

From my experience of riding with toe clips, I had an idea of the possible sensations from the contacts, but I did not realize that the difference was so great. If we take into account all the components - efficiency, convenience and safety, then contacts are an order of magnitude ahead of toe clips.

The idea was a success; the resulting cycling shoes were almost no different from the branded ones in feel, except for the weight, which gave reason to record the alteration process, “just in case.” A survey conducted on the forum also showed interest in the topic. Also understanding that the money issue for many cycling enthusiasts still dominates the choice of “contacts vs toe clips,” I decided to write this article.

Let me make a reservation right away that I am laying out a preliminary, “raw” and overweight structure. Consider this a "Beta Version". But since this is the beginning of the season (the article is being written in mid-May), I think that it will help many people to do at least something and try contacts, and at the end of the season after the tests we can talk about the disadvantages and advantages, if any. So the more people who respond about their experience, the better.

So, I believe that there are several really good reasons to engage in this “collective farm”. So, in descending order:

You have a non-standard foot size - very large or small. The selection of cycling shoes of non-standard sizes, even on the Internet, is catastrophically small, not to mention the available bike shops.
You want something original to show off in the cycling crowd - for example, show off rubber cycling boots for KBA;)
You need special trekking shoes with contact fastenings. The branded one is expensive, but you already have a couple of almost new Vibrams at home, which suit you and are an order of magnitude better than those offered with contacts.
Not everyone has the opportunity to use online stores, credit cards for payment, or simply go to the nearest capital to browse bike showrooms.
You want to switch to clipless pedals, but your budget only allows you to buy them, and shoes are put off for the future.
You are afraid that having bought your first clipless pedals and cycling shoes through an online store, in case of an error with the size or if you don’t like it, you will not be able to sell them in your city, because... there is no demand for such things here.
The quality and materials of a pair of good branded sneakers for 1,900 rubles, IMHO, will be better than the quality of cycling shoes for the same amount, because fun things are always more expensive than mass-produced ones.

As you can see, there are reasons. Then let's get started!

2. A little theory of the structure of cycling shoes.

First, let's look at what's special about cycling shoes compared to running shoes. The basis of cycling shoes is a hard core in the form of a sort of profiled insole made of plastic or composite. Since the contact area of the shoe with the pedal is small, the load in this area is very large. The hard core distributes it evenly over the entire area of the foot, otherwise it will be difficult to even stand up on the pedals. When you press on the pedal, the load is evenly removed from the foot by a plastic core and concentrated on a reinforced zone in the form of a steel plate, to which the so-called. spikes, shaped pieces of steel or bronze that transmit forces when pulling the pedal. The dimensions for attaching a Shimano SPD standard cleat to cycling shoes are as follows: two holes with an M5 thread and a depth of 5-6mm, the distance between the holes along the axes is 14mm. Keep in mind that the spike is not symmetrical in length.

When you pull your leg up or back, it is the cleat that pulls the pedal. In this case, the foot presses on the top of the shoe, which covers the core from below, and it pulls the cleat attachment area, which pulls the pedal.

The sole of the cycling shoe protects the core from wear and reduces the pressure on the cleat. The sole is often made very simplified, in the form of several sections of plastic framing the shoe. This is especially noticeable on sports shoes, where you can see part of the rigid, inflexible core on which several “lugs” are attached. But on utilitarian cycling shoes with the usual type of molded sole, the core is also present in one form or another, it’s just completely encased in plastic and is not visible from the outside.

As for walking in cycling shoes. I admit, I don’t have much experience in assessing the walking properties of cycling shoes - otherwise where would this article come from! But what I had accumulated by trying different models from friends and in stores was enough. You can walk in utilitarian and walking cycling shoes, although worse than in regular sneakers. Racing shoes do not bend at all in the soles. Road shoes are the apotheosis of toughness. When developing the design, I envisioned a walking and tourist destination, so I included the possibility of more or less comfortable walking. But then problems arose. The fact is that the location of the spike was exactly at the place where the sole bends. How it worked out - read further in the description of the design.

I will not yet mention the special cleats and Velcro straps, which serve to additionally attract the leg to the core, which are installed in advanced cycling shoes. Cheap utilitarian and tourist models usually do not have them. And it won’t be in our rework yet, although the presence of the core makes it possible to easily introduce this element into the rework.

What is also characteristic of cycling shoes for contacts is the rigid fixation of the heel on the sole. On the one hand, this is necessary to pull the pedal back, and on the other, so that when turning the leg to the side when quilting, there is no displacement between the sole and the foot. Therefore, even cycling slippers have a developed system of straps in the heel, and cycling shoes and cycling sneakers probably have a plastic insert that reinforces the structure behind the heel in addition to raising the edges of the core at the back. Although I won’t say anything - unfortunately, I didn’t cut my cycling shoes.

Also, another characteristic detail of good cycling shoes is pockets for laces or straps covering them so that the laces do not get wrapped around the crank.

The basis of a running shoe is an elastic, shock-absorbing sole. The sole is made thick, soft and flexible enough to cushion when running and not interfere with the flexion of the foot. The load is distributed along it by a rigid power part on top of the sole or inside it. The embedding of the upper of the sneaker into the sole is not designed to be pulled by the pedals, but IMHO if you are not zealous, it will endure for a while.

It is also valuable that in good sneakers, the lacing holes are reinforced with additional loops sewn over the holes and transmitting forces to the sidewalls.

In general, I proceeded from the fact that the manufacturing technology of sneakers and cycling shoes in terms of the upper is not very different, of course, with the exception of the presence of belts and buckles. But some sneakers have them.

3. Setting goals.

What requirements did I put forward for the design of homemade cycling shoes?

The rework technology should ensure good repeatability of the result. In other words, it should be designed for “advanced dummies” and conditions close to garage-kitchen
The resulting cycling shoes should allow you to walk more or less comfortably on the ground and climb on not very steep profiles.
Materials for alteration must be available. Ideally, everything should be sold in a building materials and fabric store. Therefore, for now I have rejected aluminum and titanium, professional polyurethane adhesives, ultrasonic welding of plastic, welding of aluminum in an argon environment, laser cutting and welding, diffusion methods for joining dissimilar metals and other high-tech technologies.
The original shoes may be of different designs, but the technology should not be radically different. Those. for a sole made of genuine leather, for a molded plastic sole and for a molded rubber sole, it should be the same or not differ much.
When altering, the strength of the original shoes should not decrease, but on the contrary, it should increase due to the increased load.
The appearance of the original shoes should not change.
The design should provide the ability to fasten the cleats with standard screws from the kit, just like on branded cycling shoes.
The design should be such that even old worn shoes that are no longer suitable for walking can still work as cycling shoes.

As an experimental basis, I took a pair of old Iranian-made size 9 Adidas Center Court sneakers that had been lying in the closet for a couple of years. These sneakers IMHO are very comfortable for both pedestrians and bicycles. Despite their unsightly appearance and cheapness (alas, now they cost money - 1300 rubles instead of 800 rubles and even 400 rubles earlier) they run regularly for a season or even two. Then their soles begin to crumble and the natural leather from which they are almost entirely made begins to crack. However, this is not surprising, considering how they are used and how they are cared for - at best, they are only washed once a month. Another good thing about them is that all the materials inside are moisture-resistant and do not crumble from water, there are no cavities where it can get in. Once wet, the sneakers continue to work, only the leather stretches a little. I have been convinced of this more than once.

They also have bad properties. The first and most important thing is that crappy leather paint is washed off with water! This causes your feet to turn blue or black, and the sneakers themselves take on an unpresentable, dusty appearance. But this does not affect the driving performance; it is felt that “Adidas” was written on them for a reason, apparently it was still a license, and not stupid theft as in China. Therefore, I would recommend taking beige ones rather than black ones. Another problem is that there is a lot of dirt from them. The tread is small and dirt gets stuck in it when wet, and when it dries it falls out and stains everything around. This applies to a greater extent to later models with small patterns; mine had a larger and more practical tread.

My copy was practically impossible to use for wear; the upper part of the leather was covered in some places with cracks and tears, the sole was crumbling in places, and the lining at the back had worn down to the plastic insert holding the heel. And why, in such a state, I didn’t throw them away, but took them to work and put them in the closet for the time being - a mystery to myself.

To begin with, the sneakers were thoroughly washed inside and out with soap, scraped out of the remnants of the glued insole, washed and dried. In order for the leather of the upper, which had shrunk two sizes during years of exile in the closet, to regain its shape, I wet it several times with water and soaked it in glycerin, stuffing the inside of the sneakers with free “7 days” newspapers.

4. Design features.

Let's look at the cross-section of the sole of the sneakers we took for work.

On top there is a 2 mm thick yellowish strength layer of non-woven fiber reinforced with resin. This part holds the load, distributing the weight evenly over the sole area. Below this layer is reinforced with polypropylene matting made of ribbons, which prevents it from spreading. A black spongy mass, apparently foamed elastomer or polyurethane, makes up the sole and is 7-8mm thick. During the research, I discovered that the sole melts at a low temperature, about 250-300C, and the melt has good adhesion to the metal.

In this prototype, I didn’t bother with plastic and composites and decided to make a core from 1mm steel, shaped to fit the foot. I came across a mention on the Internet that someone made something similar from thick aluminum, as well as PCB and titanium. I doubt that the textolite will take the desired shape with all the bends. Aluminum is good, but it’s a problem to weld it, hard grades break, and the strength of soft grades, IMHO, doesn’t suit my design well. Increasing the thickness of the sheet for strength takes away the volume from the foot. Titan is excellent in every way, but where can the average biker get it? And how to process it. But the old refrigerator will give us almost everything we need! That's why I used steel for now.

An embedded washer with a diameter of 23 mm is welded to the core at the location of the center of the spike by contact welding. This embedded washer is my know-how; I have not seen it in other descriptions of the design of homemade cycling shoes. This washer simultaneously performs three functions:

1. I, and probably most readers of this topic, do not have the technology that allows me to squeeze out a hole with a burr in a sheet of metal, in which to then cut a thread, which solves the problem of cutting a full-length thread in a thin sheet of metal. Therefore, by introducing this part with a height of 2 mm, I simply locally increased the thickness of the metal for the thread in the right place, so as not to make a thick plate over the entire area of the sole.

2. The insert washer removes the shear load from the adhesive layer between the sole and the core that occurs when quilting from the pedal or when moving the leg back and forth. It transfers all efforts with its lateral surface to the power layer and sole

3. The hole for the insert in the sole size 23mm is less damaging to the power part of the sneaker than a large rectangular cutout and improves the walking properties of the shoe. The fact is that the spike is located almost on the bend line of the sole when walking. And a smaller hole with an F23 insert glued into it allows the sole to bend around it. The description of the technology will indicate the diameter of the hole in the sole as 22mm, but this is determined by the available tsifenbor. However, this is only for the good; the insert fits into the heated sole more tightly.

What about durability? The 23mm insert washer transfers the load from the core to the tenon when pulling it up when the force is small. When you press the pedal, the load is taken by the support washer Ф45mm, and in the center it presses on the core directly through the insert washer, and along the periphery through a thin layer of plastic on the sole. The ratio of the areas of the washers is equal to the ratio of the efforts when pressing on the pedals in the most severe case of pedaling - standing and holding the steering wheel horns. Force ratio ~100kg/~26kg=3.8 or washer areas Ф45mm/Ф23mm = 1590mm2/415mm2 =3.8. I admit, it turned out by accident, I proceeded from the existing washers, which, however, does not give us a reason not to use it!

The use of round washers fused into the sole is my know-how. In theory, they do not create stress concentrations in the corners like rectangular parts, which can cause ruptures in the sole. They also allow the sole to flex better when walking, as mentioned above. Time will tell how right I am.

The M5 screw in the center of the insert, used during assembly as a technological one, additionally tightens the pack of washers in addition to contact welding and the plastic layer and is involved in the transfer of forces from the core and embedded washer to the support washer and tenon.

To connect the sole to the core, I used not ordinary solvent-based contact adhesive, but hot-melt adhesive, which hardens in a mass of any thickness and, if the technology is followed, has sufficient flexibility, strength and good adhesion to the metal. Although it would be good to use special polyurethane shoe glue, which has excellent adhesion and the ability to foam slightly during the thickening process. But I haven’t seen it on open sale yet. Titan glue for PVC tiles may also be suitable; it also hardens in volume.

In order not to leave the bare metal of the core visible, I covered it with dark blue artificial suede. It was thought that the suede would also prevent the insole from moving to the side. And so it happened. For now, I also made the insole from leftover suede, covering it with a piece of micro-corrugated cardboard from an office folder. It feels nice, but I can’t say anything about durability yet.

5. Description of production technology.

In this part I tried to describe in detail the manufacturing process and some recommendations. All technology, with the exception of recommendations on technologies for attaching support washers to other types of soles, was tested on shoes and gave good results. As for the recommendations mentioned, I did not bend my heart by giving them here. This is what I will do if I have to.

Let me remind you once again that I do not yet have sufficient statistics to evaluate the convenience and service life of these cycling shoes. According to estimates, they should cover a couple of thousand kilometers. So the more people make and test cycling shoes using this technology, the better. As they say, “We will perfect the product on the clients!”

Cut out the core template.

Take a piece of writing paper and place your sneaker on it. Trace along the outer contour of the sole and cut out the primary template, which you place inside the sneaker and stitch along the transition lines of the sole to the upper part. Trim off the excess and so on several times until the sheet exactly repeats all the details of the inner horizontal part of the sole. If in the middle there is a not very pronounced orthopedic instep of the sole under the arch of the foot, then cover it too with a template, or draw a contour around it. Be especially careful with the front part, you can’t see where the line goes - use a pencil, guiding it along the line of the sole.

Align the sheet of paper as much as possible and stick it onto a sheet of 0.5 mm tin. Trace the outline with a pencil and remove the paper. Draw a smaller second contour with a pencil, stepping back inward by 1-1.5 mm, along which cut out the main template using metal scissors. This 1.5mm is an allowance for the fabric and sloppiness with markings. Cutting tin, as a rule, goes without problems, but I recommend that you first cut the outline roughly, and then remove the remainder in the form of a ribbon, moving the scissors counterclockwise. Using a block, clean off all the burrs and check that the template fits freely into the sneaker, does not dangle too much and does not crash into the walls. Correct problem areas with scissors and a block. Test the second sneaker with the same template so that the template is unified.

Marking the core template.

Place the sneaker on your foot and lace it up. If you don’t have at hand a contact pedal installed on the bike with a temporary plastic platform, with the help of which it is very convenient to find the desired position of the pedal axis, then place a half-inch steel rod or pipe on the floor and on top of it a steel plate measuring approximately 100x50 and a thickness of 4.5- 5mm. Stand on the plate so that you can easily balance on the pipe but at the same time be as close to your toe as possible. The approximate place for the described sneaker is between the first and second lacing holes, just below the base of the big toe by 12-15mm. Try to stand like this for a while, rise and fall on your fingers up and down the same way as is done while standing on the pedals. If this is easy to do and does not press anything, then without getting off the pipe, position your foot so that the axis of the pipe is coaxial with the axis of the future pedal. Have an assistant mark this axis on the side of the shoe with a marker. Repeat this with the second sneaker. If everything is done correctly, then when you put the sneakers on the soles of each other, the marks should coincide or not diverge by more than 2-3mm.

Draw a line along the sole with a marker from one mark to another. Take the contact pedal and place its axis against the line so that the mating plane for the connecting rod in the threaded part of the pedal axis is 6-7 mm outward from the edge of the sole, and the pedal itself is located almost in the center of the sole with a slight offset to the inside. Again, it’s more convenient when the pedal is already on the connecting rod, then you can use a template between the sidewall and the connecting rod. Using a marker, draw another line along the sole of the shoe through the center of the pedal. At the intersection of these lines the center of the spike will be located.

Place the template inside and, by moving it and bending it slightly, set it to its normal position. Secure the template with a clamp in the middle part of the sole. Place a block of support into the sneaker and turn its top over with the sole, resting the template on the block and placing the sole horizontally. Using an F2mm drill, drill through the marking point and the template. Remove the template and, applying it to the sole and aligning the resulting hole and the center markings, and also aligning the template along the contour of the sole, transfer all the axle marks from the sole to both sides of the template. Test the template on a second shoe by placing the template inside and using an awl or nail to push the inside of the sole through the template. The marking and the awl that has come out of the sole must coincide or be very close to each other, within 2mm.

Cutting and marking the core

Attach the template to the sheet from which you will make the core. For now, let’s assume that for a biker’s weight of 105 kg this thickness is 1 mm, for a weight of 70...80 kg - 0.8 mm. IMHO it’s better not to take a sheet thinner than 0.8mm, because... it is possible for the core to be destroyed at the place of welding with the F23 insert washer. Perhaps in the future these values will be adjusted.

Use a scriber to trace the outline of the template, mark the hole in the center, and transfer the markings to the pedal axis. Cut the core with metal scissors, first roughly cutting along the contour with an overlap of about 10...15mm and then carefully cutting off this ribbon while moving the scissors counterclockwise. In the area of the hollow of the foot (where flat feet live) you will have to tinker, it is better to walk several times, removing a narrower ribbon than one wide one. After cutting out the core, remove all burrs from it and round off the edges with an abrasive stone and sandpaper so that it does not cut the fabric. Mark and drill a hole in the center of Ф5mm according to the markings and carefully remove the chamfers so that no burrs stick out.

Turn the template over and make a second mirror core similar to the first.

Check that both cores fit into the shoe freely. You may have to bend them a little when installing them inward, but they should sit securely in place and have a slight play of about 1mm back and forth and sideways. Please note that the axle markings will be needed on the bottom side of the core, position it accordingly.

Molding of the core according to the leg.

Put on the sneakers with the cores embedded in them (the axle markings should be on the bottom side - check!) and walk for about 15 minutes. Depending on your weight and the thickness of the metal, the core will take the shape of the sole and foot. If necessary, use a hammer to slightly bend the edges of the core up along the entire perimeter to make it more comfortable for your leg. Do not make bends in the place where the bend of the sole will pass - this place is clearly visible. Try on sneakers with a core again and adjust where there is pressure and pressure. Check again that the core fits tightly to the sole. It should look something like the photo below.

Cutting a hole in the sole.

When everything is ready and the core is completely molded and lies in the sneaker, drill a hole in the sole using a F5mm drill through the finished F5mm hole. Using this hole as a base for a centering drill bit (I have a diameter of Ф6.5mm), cut a hole Ф22mm in the sole, making sure that it is even and vertical. Your tsifenbor drill may have a different diameter, check the diameters yourself.

Check how well the sole material melts and adheres to the core metal. To do this, heat a piece of sheet steel with a hairdryer to 300-400C and attach a sample of the sole to it. If it does not melt, then this will change the technology at the final stage.

There is another way. After final assembly of the core with the insert washer and drilling holes in it, smear chalk on the insert washer and place the core inside the sneaker. Press everything with a clamp or foot, mark a hole using the resulting chalk imprint and drill a hole with a diameter of 22 m in the sole. The result is in the photo below.

Manufacturing of embedded washer with a diameter of 23mm

The thickness of the embedded washer depends on the thickness of the power layer of the sole and for the described Iranian-made Adidas Center Court sneaker it is 2 mm.

I stamped my washer using a 23mm diameter hole punch at my disposal from a sheet of steel. If you are making a part from a sheet, then it is more convenient to find the center using the method of a triangle and bisectors coming from its vertices or using a metal carpenter's square. In advance, before drilling a central hole with a diameter of 5 mm, use a compass to mark a concentric circle with a radius of 7 mm on the side of the insert washer that will be at the bottom after assembly. This will help when marking the main mounting holes. You can make a washer with a slightly larger diameter, 25 mm, on a lathe, at the same time drilling a central hole of Ф5mm and marking a circle with a radius of 7mm. If the washer is stamped, then on the core side there will be a lower part with a burr that needs to be ground off with an abrasive stone.

Manufacturing a support washer with a diameter of 45mm.

I also die cut it with an existing 45mm diameter die from 2.5mm sheet. Thicker IMHO makes no sense, because... The contact part of the M-520 pedal is made of steel of the same thickness. Thinner is possible if the sole is rigid and holds the load. Then the washer will simply protect it from damage.

If you make a washer from a stamped part, then you can find the center using the method of an inscribed triangle and bisectors coming from its vertices or using a metal carpenter's square. Mark and drill the central and main mounting holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm. Cut the M5 thread ONLY in the central hole, DO NOT cut the thread in the holes for the main fasteners, this is done at the end after complete assembly of the product

Three technological holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled in the upper and lower parts of the washer to allow plastic to come out when the washer is fused. One along the axis and two at 45 degrees to the sides. All of them are on a diameter of 38mm.

Remove the chamfers with a drill in the holes and abrasive along the edges of the washer, sand the washer on both sides with coarse sandpaper and rinse in caustic to degrease.

In garage conditions, you can make washers by cutting them from a sheet according to the markings with a hacksaw, an abrasive wheel and a file. Roundness depends on the straightness of the arms. What's good about this method is that you can make the washers non-round, for example, the insert washer is oval, and the support washer is heart-shaped or magendavid.

Core assembly.

Attach the finished marked embedded washer from the outside of the core with a screw and an M5 nut, placing the markings on the washer from the outside to the outside. Weld them by contact welding as in the photo (three points along the top and bottom edges) or semi-automatically (also three points in pre-drilled holes in the core. Using a drill with a diameter of 10 mm, chamfer a hole with a diameter of 5 mm from the side of the core so that the head The M5 countersunk screw fits in there flush with the surface. If necessary, lightly sand the head of the screw in height so that it does not stick out.

Using a ruler, mark the line of the pedal axis on the welded insert washer and, at the points of intersection with a pre-marked circle with a radius of 7 mm, mark it under the main mounting holes with M5 threads. Carefully drill two main mounting holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm on a drilling machine; DO NOT cut threads in them, this is done at the end after the product is fully assembled. After this, carefully remove the chamfers, sand the core on both sides with coarse sandpaper and rinse in caustic soda to degrease.

Covering the core with fabric

Take a piece of faux suede and place the core on it so that the fabric stretches across it. Roughly cut out the fabric along the contour of the core, leaving a margin of about 20mm.

Prepare a hot glue gun and a hair dryer. Carry out the work only in protective cotton gloves; it is advisable to put them on with the side with the plastic coating facing outward so that when it melts it does not stain the parts. Take care of ventilation, there will be some smoke.

Lightly heat the core with a hairdryer and apply hot melt adhesive in a 10x10mm grid on the entire upper side of the core (where there is no embedded washer). After this, warm it well with a hairdryer and spread the glue with an iron or trowel* over the entire surface of the core, especially along the edges.

While the glue is hot, place a pre-cut piece of suede on the core and smooth it evenly, squeezing out excess glue to the sides. If necessary, you can heat the core and fabric with a hairdryer. Leave to cool for 15 minutes.

After cooling, finally trim the fabric along the contour, leaving 15mm from the edge. Cut the cloves at the folds of the fabric as shown in the photo. Apply hot glue to the underside of the core and spread it after heating it with a hairdryer over the entire surface, excluding the embedded washer.

This layer of glue will act as a primer for the main layer. Fold and glue the fabric cloves to the core. To remove wrinkles and creases, use an iron or ironing iron to smooth out folded edges and tabs. Check that the fabric on the front surface has not come away from the metal.

While the core is hot, use a gun to apply a base layer of glue about 1-2mm thick over the entire exposed surface of the core and fabric. Using a hot trowel or iron, smooth out the layer of glue, make sure that the layer is uniform, the fabric does not come off the metal and the tabs do not slip. Leave to cool for 15-20 minutes.

After it has cooled, use a blade to make a T-shaped cut in the fabric above the hole for the conical screw and the mounting holes and move the fabric apart, slightly warming this area with a hairdryer. Do not overheat, a loose piece of fabric can easily be charred by the hot air from a hair dryer!

An alternative technology is to glue the fabric with “Titan” or “Moment” glue and apply the main layer of glue to the already dried core. But I haven’t checked how Titan reacts to heat.

* Ironing iron - a nozzle that replaces the iron “for defrosting pipes” from the hair dryer kit, moved as close as possible to its outlet but so as not to prevent it from moving to the side. The result is a rounded strip of steel heated by hot air, which can be used to grind the glue. You will need it for your next operation.

Preparing the sneakers

Cover the inside of the entire heel of the sneaker with several layers of masking tape, thereby protecting the thin synthetic fabric from heat and glue. Remove the laces, wipe the leather with glycerin or water to prevent it from drying out while working.

Warm up the inside of the sneaker sole with a hairdryer. It is necessary to heat it strongly, but so that the plastic does not leak, the leather and fabric do not burn, and the stitching threads, if any, do not melt. Use hair dryer extensions. There may be some smoke, so work outdoors or with good ventilation.

Apply a layer of hot-melt adhesive to the inside of the sole with a 10x10mm mesh, heat it again with a hairdryer and with a hot trowel, rub the glue over the entire surface of the sole, especially carefully in the area of the hole with a diameter of 22mm. This layer will act as soil in connection with the core.

Installing the core into a sneaker.

While the sneaker is hot and the glue in it is semi-liquid and slippery, put the still cold core inside, bending it slightly in the middle. This technique will prevent its petals from falling apart and will not stain the skin inside with glue. Straighten the core if it is bent and tilt it slightly so that there is a gap along the entire length between it and the sole. Inserting a thin hair dryer nozzle into the hole in the sole, gently heat the layer of glue on the core and sole from the inside. Control the temperature of the sole, it should not overheat and lose its shape! Place the core in place and heat the core itself with a hairdryer from the inside of the sneaker; the fabric will not burn as long as it is glued to the core and transfers heat to it. Work carefully so as not to move the fabric.

When the core warms up to the desired temperature (about 100C), put on a thin woolen sock or two regular ones (they will get dirty with glue!) and, putting on the sneaker and standing in it, mold the core to the sole. A few seconds will be enough while the leg endures. Carefully remove the sneaker and make sure that the insert fits exactly into the hole and that the fabric is not moved. Place free newspapers in the toe of the sneakers and press the core in the area of the hole and in the heel with clamps, placing a layer of the same newspapers under their heads, and 4-5 mm steel plates under the paws on the sole. If there are no clamps, then you can press the core in the hole area with a table leg, and at the same time place a 20mm block under the heel so that the sole in the heel part presses down the core.

After cooling for half an hour, remove the clamps and remove the paper. Lightly heat the cloth around the screw head and bend it back for easy access to the holes.

Installation of the support washer on a thermoplastic sole with a rigid power layer inside.

Insert a countersunk countersunk M5x25 screw into the hole in the core. Heat the support washer with a hairdryer or torch until it turns light yellow and, placing it on the screw and aligning it with the holes, begin to tighten the central screw. The sole should begin to melt and the plastic will flow through the holes in the washer. For alignment, insert two long F4 nails into the holes in the support washer and core and, while tightening, align them so that they are parallel on all sides.

If necessary, heat the washer with a hairdryer on site, protecting the sole from the air flow. Pull the screw until the washer is seated against the embedment. Remove all glue and plastic squeezed out through the technological holes from the surface of the washer, remove the centering nails and leave to cool without unscrewing the M5 technological screw. If in the front part of the sole the washer has settled into the plastic less than in the back, this can be eliminated after installing the stud by pulling it through the main mounting holes.

These are army boots and boots made of genuine leather, garden rubber boots, possibly “farewell to youth” boots, sneakers.

If the thickness of the sole allows, then you can work with a large-diameter crown, blades and abrasive tools to select the volume in which the support washer and tenon will be placed. Check that the support washer is in good contact with the embed and the surface of the sole in the selected groove.

Before installation, warm up the rubber and apply hot-melt glue to the sole; heat the washer not too much, just until the glue melts. Further technology is similar. Although problems are possible - standard hot-melt adhesive may not adhere well to the rubber. For this case, there are special types of hot-melt adhesive from Terozon, based on rubber, with a higher melting point and lower rigidity.

These are “office” and “summer” shoes, boots made of pressed leather, all made in China. Summer shoes often have a strap at the instep with a buckle and Velcro, which is quite valuable to us.

All of them are characterized by the fact that the sole is molded from a harder and denser plastic than on sneakers. There is a lightening lattice in the sole in the form of cylindrical cells with thick walls. The thickness of the sole is about 8mm in the part of interest to us. On top, the sole is covered in several layers of leather, textiles and cardboard. The upper is often sewn to the sole via tape. There is an instep support. The heel is not reinforced, there is only a cardboard insert under the lining.

The recommendations here are simple - carefully remove the arch support, all cardboard, leather and textile pads from the sole, make the core standard or lightweight depending on the hardness and type of sole. Glue the core using standard technology; the plastic of the sole melts poorly and it will not be possible to burn through it. Even if this happens, the strength of the sole is such that even if it cracks, it will not spread to the sides under load. The support washer should be made thinner - 1.5 mm, or it should be heated more strongly before installation. The problem is that the shoes do not have a tongue, and to tighten the washer you will have to look for or make a hex head screw and pull it with a spanner or a ratchet head from the heel side. You will have to drill a hole in the sole from the street according to the markings with a template.

These are cheap market Chinese sneakers made of synthetic leather for 400 rubles.

Fragile loose cardboard under the insole and thermoplastic plastic of the sole without a hint of reinforcement in the place we need. Essentially, it is just the shell of a sneaker with virtually no strength structure. After removing the cardboard from the sole, such a sneaker can actually be rolled into a tube.

To glue the core into such a sneaker, you need to first glue a couple of pieces of fiberglass mat or a brass mesh onto it around the embedded washer, 10 mm wide less than the width of the core in this place and the length of a rub of the sole, so that it covers the entire bending area. This reinforces the sole and will prevent the support washer from coming into contact with the core if the overheated washer melts through the thin Chinese sole, which threatens to tear the sole off the core in this place. Fill the honeycombs in the heel part and in the middle with a mixture of hot melt adhesive and cut fiberglass, and also place a layer of fiberglass on top of the honeycombs. Or glue in rubber cubes. Before pouring, warm up the sole as much as possible, but not to melt it. Although I don’t see much point in remaking these sneakers, the foot will rot in synthetics without ventilation, and the holes for the laces without reinforcing loops will tear.

Final finishing

After the sole has cooled, use a blade to cut off the excess plastic around the edges that prevents the pedal from fastening. After cooling, check that all mounting holes are aligned and cleared of plastic.

Take an M5 tap No. 1 (with a long lead) and, carefully holding it in the drill chuck, positioning the tap perpendicular to the washer, cut an M5 thread in the main mounting holes over the entire length. Remove small chamfers from both sides of the hole.

Unscrew the M5x25 technological screw; if it is stuck, warm it up slightly with a hairdryer. Screw the M5x6 mounting screw into its place.

Place the tenon in place, fastening it with standard screws. Check that the screws do not protrude into the shoe but are not recessed deeper than 1mm.

Remove any shavings and excess glue from the screw head and the recesses of the main mounting holes, heat the fabric and glue it in place. The result should be an almost flat area without protrusions.

Using a sharp blade, cut off the excess plastic that will prevent it from being fastened in the front part of the washer; in the back, remove the plastic that will prevent the pedal from turning. Attach the pedal and check that everything works.

Remove the masking tape from the back, wipe down and touch up the sneaker with leather paint. Small tears and cracks in the skin can be sealed with hot glue by heating the skin with a hairdryer until the glue begins to boil white. Through gaps should be sealed with a piece of genuine leather or fiberglass lining on the reverse side.

Insert the insole. Put on your sneakers and lace up, and lace up noticeably tighter than when walking, but so that your foot does not get crushed. Walk on concrete or asphalt. If the tenon makes a clicking sound, try to push it and the support washer deeper by heating it and the plate under a hairdryer until the plastic begins to melt. Tighten the main mounting screws and the central mounting screw, press on the plate in the front, periodically heating it if the plastic thickens. Everything should cool in a fixed, compressed state. Thus, I set the spike on the left sneaker 2-3mm deeper and it stopped protruding much from the sole. My right spike immediately fell into the right position.

Check how the shoe fits into the pedal and if it is difficult to get into, grind the plastic of the sole at the front so that it is more hollow.

6. Bonuses and possible design upgrades.

Protection of feet from splinters.

A 1mm solid steel plate under the insole is good protection against sharp objects on the ground. I think it will withstand a sharp nail sticking up, perhaps bend a little, but not make a hole. I’m not even talking about broken glass, only the sole will suffer. I haven’t tested it on anti-personnel mines, I’ll admit right away...

Weight upgrade.

The initial weight of the sneaker is 380g without the insole, the final weight is 580g. A pair of these homemade products weighs 1160g. A lot of? Yes. For example, a pair of good cycling shoes weighs 840g per pair. The difference is 320g per couple. But there are reserves for weight loss. These include lighter materials, lightweight parts and a more rational core shape. It is quite possible that in the rear part it can be narrowed to a minimum, made butted - smoothly increasing the thickness in the power part. And if the sneaker has a fairly rigid sole design, then it may be possible to leave only the part that is under the toes and up to the fold line of the sole; the back part after the fold line of the sole can be removed, and the front part can be made from a perforated sheet. This will give a weight savings of almost 80-100g per sneaker or 160-200g per pair!

Improving mud permeability.

The presence of a rigid core glued into the sole, IMHO, will make it possible to equip such sneakers with spikes in the toe without much difficulty. The studs can be standard ones, from boots or spikes. For this upgrade, you will need to weld or screw in advance two bosses of the required height in the toe of the core with an internal thread for the tenon and make corresponding holes in the sole to accommodate it. The holes should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the bosses, the bosses should have a diameter similar to that of a spike, and for ease and better retention in the tread, make a shallow groove in the middle, 1-2mm wide. Make the bosses lower than the height of the sole material at the place where they are placed and, by analogy with the main fastening, fuse a washer with a diameter 4-5 mm larger than the base of the tenon into the sole above the boss to form a “mushroom” into which the tenon is screwed.

Improving stud wear resistance.

This is just an idea, but who knows... Weld similar lugs in the amount of 6 pieces in the front part of the core along the edge, to the bend line of the sole, three pieces on each side of the tenon, arranging it all in the form of the letter V, with the tip up. And screw the housings from the cartridge vibration brake pad to them with the open part towards the back. I think the strength is enough, but when braking the forces will be greater and they will be applied to the center. The case will have to be placed so that it is recessed as much as possible, but at the same time allows you to change the cartridge, i.e. about 1/2 of the height. Insert old worn-out liners there, finally finishing them off when walking.

7. What is required for work

Materials:

A pair of sneakers that are the right size for you.
Sheet steel 1...0.8mm 120x900mm for cores
Sheet steel 2.5mm 100X50mm for support washers
Sheet steel 1.5…2mm 100X50mm for embedded washers
Washers can also be made by turning
A piece of artificial suede 400X1400 dark color
White or transparent hot melt adhesive with a diameter of 10mm – 4 long rods
Technological screw with a countersunk head M5X25 – 1 pc.
Countersunk mounting screw M5X8 – 2 pcs.
Technological nut M5 – 1 piece

Tools:

Industrial hair dryer with temperatures up to 600C
An iron, preferably an old type with chrome on the bottom.
Hot glue gun, can be used for household use for 90 RUR
Drill or screwdriver
Metal scissors
A pair of cotton gloves
Marker
Lead pencil
Scriber
Scissors
Ruler
Blade
Coarse skin
Flat file
Hacksaw
Sharpener
Drills F2; 3; 4.2; 10mm
Crown - tsifenbor Ф22mm (for the embedded washer that you will have)
Tap M5 No. 1
Nails 4Х50 -2 pieces
Metal degreasing solution or alcohol.
Clamps for pressing the core to the sole - 2 pcs.
Hydraulic press for stamping washers with dies 23 m 45
Welding machine – semi-automatic or machine for resistance welding of sheet metal.

8. Excuses and copyrights

The author and Administration of the site, by posting this article on their pages, do not bear any responsibility for all damage to your shoes and for all injuries and deterioration in health for you or anyone else caused by the use of shoes that you, at your own peril and risk, altered as described in this technology article.

This option for converting regular shoes into cycling shoes is “open source” for non-commercial use. You can supplement and modify it as you want, make it for yourself and your friends for free, or sell it for symbolic money.

When working on this article, photographic materials and ideas from forums located at the indicated addresses were used:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3220/2857138776_921f4e8561_o.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4332642367_0e5fa1e36b.jpg

Previously, there was a lot of controversy regarding cycling shoes - how safe they are, whether there are any peculiarities and possible injuries when using them, what sizes to take and whether it is worth doing it at all. Now there is a unanimous opinion among cyclists that contact shoes for cyclists are the norm, and “trampling shoes”, pedals without contact, are an outdated look and the lot of budget bicycles.

Why do ideas change so much? It's all about accessibility. Cycling shoes that came from sports were the subject of heated debate for as long as they were inaccessible - very expensive and requiring “non-standard” pedals, which had to be ordered. Nowadays you can buy cycling shoes and special pedals in any sports store.

Now the only argument against buying contact boots is the price - after all, not everyone is ready to shell out 4-5 thousand rubles (minimum) for shoes that can only be used on a bicycle.

History of appearance

Like all innovations, contact cycling shoes came to the mass market from sports. The first models began to appear in the mid-1980s, replacing the very inconvenient frames that had previously been equipped with pedals in order to “catch” the additional force of leg movement and fix the foot as much as possible. In the USSR, the frame existed for quite a long time and in some regions it was called “highway”.

The materials from which cycling boots were made and the concept itself changed significantly. This coincided with the advent of MTB and the development of technology. While in the 1960s the cyclist's comfort (soft leather and trim, external stitching) was of paramount importance, towards the end of the century studies showed that pedaling efficiency increases if the shoe becomes a rigid base, holding the foot so tightly that the pedal itself becomes extension of the leg. This is very critical in MTB.

Construction and types

Actually, by the end of the 20th century, a “standard” for cycling shoes was formed. How is it different from regular sports?

The presence of contact spikes for a bicycle pedal.
Rigid, non-variable sole – the foot must be supported.
Hard back (for the same reason).
Minimum weight.

Actually, the leg is held in place, but otherwise the accessory does not prevent the rider from moving and using his muscular strength.

We should also highlight models of sports shoes suitable for cycling. There is no cleat attachment point, but a rigid sole and a special tread pattern.

Modern analogue of historical fastening

Materials

The outsole especially stands out in bicycle models. Unlike other sports products, it is complemented by a power pad between the tread and the insole, which is made of metal or carbon fiber. The rigid and non-standard shape of the sole must be maintained throughout its service life, and also experience serious loads when pedaling, which places very high demands on materials.

Many innovations can be found in the manufacture of backdrops. The heel should be firmly fixed, but not pinched. The side details and reinforcement elements are similar to other sports products; fasteners, which, due to the importance of the design, are available in several versions, may be of interest.

Clasps

In cycling shoes, tight and guaranteed support for the foot for a long time is very important, since sometimes there is simply no way to stop and re-lace the shoe. The second factor is the requirement that no elements of the shoes should dangle and be able to wrap around the pedals or get caught on the chain. Hence the great popularity of various Velcro and clamps.

Let's take a closer look at the fastener options:

Velcro- the most inexpensive and most unreliable type of fastener. They are used as a fastening element on inexpensive boots and sandals; at a good level, they are used as an additional pressing element and a casing over a fastener or laces.
Ratchet straps and cables- a more serious fastening, fast and reliable - does not weaken and does not redistribute the load over time, as other fasteners do. However, the reliability of a ratchet is lower than that of laces - if there is physical damage, the fastener will no longer be able to be used.
Laces– a timeless classic, different lugs and materials preserve the ancient method of tightening. Laces are universal and familiar to everyone, but due to the danger of unlacing, manufacturers add Velcro and other accessories to increase reliability.

Cycling shoes with Velcro fastening the lacing

Types of cycling shoes

Conventionally, all cycling shoes can be divided into three areas:

hiking shoes– universal, for mixed use (both driving and walking), or cheaper mass models;
sport shoes– niche and highly specialized models for specific applications;
winter shoes– it is mentioned separately due to its non-standard use and complex structure.

We will talk about the winter use of cycling shoes separately, now we will look at which models are distinguished in tourist and sports areas.

Hiking shoes

The “tourist” class includes both everyday boots and fairly serious analogues of trekking shoes. Some models bear little resemblance to “cycling shoes.” The spike is removable, the place where it is attached is closed with a special plug, and the sole is soft enough to easily walk in the mountains and even carry a bicycle.

Let's consider the options for “tourist” cycling shoes:

Universal cycling boots are a classic “sneaker” or a warm boot with a cleat for attaching to clip-on pedals or just a hard sole.
Cycling sandals are open shoes for riding in hot weather. When choosing, you should be careful and choose the right size, and when moving over rough terrain, it is better to choose boots or sandals with a closed toe.

Classic cycling sandals from Shimano

Sport shoes

Sports cycling shoes include classic contact shoes and several options for shoes aimed at more mountain disciplines. Let's consider their classification:

Road cycling shoes– lightweight shoes for clipless pedals with a very light, ventilated upper and a rigid sole to support the foot. Used by all professionals and not at all intended for walking.
Boots for trials and downhill– the other extreme, boots with minimal tread and very soft materials, including soles. Laces are used, which are covered with Velcro. On many models, space for a cleat is not provided and is cut out for a specific athlete and bike, or not cut out at all, since contact pedals are not in favor in these sports.
Cross Country Cycling Shoes– strong boots with hard soles and pronounced tread. There are even special spikes in the front of the sole to quickly run up the slopes with the bike at the ready. Not very suitable for “ordinary” walking.
Walking bike shoes- full-fledged sports sneakers, in which a groove for a contact spike is added, closed with a plug. The sole itself is soft enough to make walking in the shoes comfortable. Walking cycling shoes for riding are not very different from ordinary sports shoes.

Sports road cycling shoes from Sidi with ratchet cable

Winter features

Separately, it is worth mentioning the winter period. In winter, everything is against the rider: the temperature, from which it is necessary to escape with the help of expensive specialized clothing, and the unpleasant wind, which forces you to buy a balaclava, and the uncomfortable snow that accumulates under your shoes.

In general, many problems arise in winter:

Feet are cold - hard soles are usually poorly insulated due to the need for hard contact.
Shoes are produced for fairly warm countries, and even “winter” options may be far from warm.
Reduced mobility of the foot does not accelerate the blood, and the leg goes numb.

Many people choose classic “stomp pedals” for winter for comfortable cycling without additional complications. But winter cycling shoes are also produced. They look like full-fledged trekking boots, cost quite a lot of money, but also last quite a long time. Many people note that winter cycling shoes can be used like regular boots. The hardness of the sole does not interfere so much here, and the serious tread allows you not to worry about the cleanliness of the contact points. Some manufacturers even add spikes to the soles of winter models.

Perhaps the most important thing when buying winter models is the recommendation to take a larger size, since in our winters an additional insole is always useful, and whatever membrane is used, a thick wool sock in addition to cutting-edge technology will not hurt.

Insulation methods

“Non-standard” methods of insulation include:

warm shoe covers over summer cycling shoes - inexpensive and comfortable, however, they practically do not cope with their real task - warming the feet;
chemical heating pads - loved by the Japanese, small bags that are placed under the insole (or replace it) and warm during movement for up to 2 hours.

Manufacturers

The requirements for cycling shoes are similar to those for regular shoes. It must be made of high-quality materials, be free from defects and be comfortable. If convenience is checked exclusively in person (hence the recommendation not to buy expensive models over the Internet, but to use the services of stores), then the reputation and practice of using goods of a certain brand helps a lot with regard to manufacturing. Fortunately, these days you can find reviews of products of any brand on the Internet. Let's look at the most popular of them.

Sidi

Recognized leader in the production of footwear for motorcycles and mountain bikes. Modern technologies, concluded contracts with the largest sports teams and a large staff of scientists - it is unlikely that anyone will be able to reach the level of Sidi in the near future. In addition to high technology and quality, Sidi production is still located in Italy, although “Asian” boxes are increasingly becoming available.

As with any market leader, you can read a lot of negative things about the company and its models, but one thing should be remembered: tens of thousands of professionals and quality-conscious amateurs choose Sidi as their main shoe and have no particular intention of abandoning it.

Mavic

World famous company from France. Production has long been moved largely to Asia, but the models themselves are being developed in Europe. The choice is not very wide, and the main emphasis in production is on the sports component to the detriment of materials. First of all, users note the rigidity and comfort of the sole, excellent contact with the pedals and a strong heel of the boot. Of course, you can hardly skimp on Mavic materials, but there is no way to compare it with the best on the market.

Shimano

In any industry related to the production of accessories for bicycles and cyclists, it would be difficult not to find this manufacturer. American Shimano cycling shoes perform well. The SPD line, although inhumanly expensive for the Russian market, is accepted by almost everyone as the “standard” of cycling shoes.

Polaris

Not a particularly popular company that produces cheap models for emerging markets. “Unsuccessful batches” happen from time to time, and the general impression of a manufacturer with such a “developed” name (in Britain alone there are at least three Polaris motorcycle brands) is average.
By the way, Polaris stood out because they were one of the first to release truly high-quality shoe covers for winter on the Russian market - covers for cycling shoes that allow you to avoid freezing during winter riding.

Another Italian brand. The company opened in 1993 and is recognized mainly by snowboarders and ordinary people. Northwave down jackets in Russia can be found in any city. Northwave have a huge line of products - from cycling shoes to underwear and accessories. Cooperation with athletes in terms of product testing constantly improves the quality of cycling shoes, but it is not yet possible to compare with market leaders. But the materials, apparently due to the work and the clothes, are very pleasing.

Fiveten

The American company FiveTen, which began with the production of climbing shoes and remains one of the leaders in this area to this day. In the 90s, in the wake of the mountain biking and cross-country boom, they released lock shoes and have since maintained a line of quality cycling shoes for amateurs.

Conclusion

Cycling shoes have firmly taken their position in the market, but so far only in the middle and premium segments. Now everyone understands that contact pedals are a standard, albeit an expensive one. When choosing shoes, the main thing is always the fitting, but a secondary argument is the quality of materials and workmanship, which can most easily be determined by the brand by looking for reviews on the Internet. Specialized clothing and shoes for cycling are quite expensive, but the choice and number of manufacturers is sufficient to find an option to suit your taste and budget. The well-known Shimanos are not much superior to the small Polaris, but in terms of money they can differ by 3-4 times.

Women are not forgotten either. Many manufacturers produce separate lines. Although women's cycling shoes do not show any special features, the shape of the sole only changes slightly.

The question about pedals, and specifically about contact pedals for a bicycle, very often comes up in the cycling community among beginners and more or less experienced cyclists, but often it is not possible to find a clear and short answer to it quickly. Not so long ago, one of the neophytes of the 1st cycling movement on one popular regional resource asked a quite logical, for a beginner, question about contact pedals: “Why these pedals at all, if your legs can hold up just fine on regular ones?”, for which he immediately received the rays of the “righteous” anger” from the communication participants, but I never received an answer to my question. I will still try to give a detailed answer to this question. First, let's describe what it is, and then systematize all the types of pedals known to us.

Clipless pedals- this is a mechanism that allows you to mechanically fix the cyclist’s foot on the pedal, thereby connecting the cyclist’s shoes and the bicycle pedal into a single whole structure, i.e. ensuring full contact of the cyclist with the bicycle drive.

I. Historical development of pedal design.

Historically, bicycle pedals were a simple platform - a platform that had an axis running through the center and could rotate around this axis. Rotation is necessary so that the platform always remains in the same plane with the shoes, and does not rotate along with the connecting rod of the system. Such pedals are still common in all recreational, children's and all types of budget bicycles where vigorous pedaling is not required. Pedals of a similar design are also used in most extreme and stunt cycling disciplines, where pedaling power is not needed, but complete freedom of foot position and the ability to quickly remove your foot from the pedal and quickly return are important.

Pedaling efficiency, i.e. The amount of power you can develop by pedaling is not very high on simple platforms; it would be more accurate to say that it is the lowest of all types of pedals, since you can only spin the pedal by pressing your foot on it when it is in the forward position. When the pedal, moving in a circle, is in the lower, back or upper position, you cannot do anything with it, at this time you press on the second pedal and so on alternately, stomping first one or the other naked on the pedal. For this characteristic pedaling feature, simple platform pedals got their nickname "trampling".

[picture: stomping area]

A solution that can improve pedaling efficiency is pedals. "toe clips", from English toe - toe and clip - clamp. Toe clips are the same platform, but with an additional stirrup under the toe and a strap that tightens the leg in the middle of the foot, thus pinching the toe of the shoe in the stirrup.

Since in toe clips the foot is fixed and has a mechanical stop when moving up and forward, this allows you not only to stomp on the pedal from top to bottom when it is in the forward position, but also to pull the pedal from bottom to top when it is in the rear position, and also to pull the pedal forward when it is in the upper position. You cannot pull the pedal back when it is in the lower zone in toe clips, since the heel is not fixed and you can simply pull your foot out of the stirrup.

As a result, instead of one working zone, when we can only stomp the pedal, two more appear, in which we can also influence it and we already get something similar to a full rotation of the pedal, with only one dead zone - in the down position. All this, as a result, significantly increases the efficiency of pedaling due to the fact that now not only the quadriceps major muscle, but also other leg muscles are involved in pedal rotation, and therefore we can apply a greater total force per revolution of the pedal.

[picture: toe clip coverage areas]

Despite their simplicity, toe clips still cannot be called comfortable pedals, since you cannot quickly insert your foot into the stirrup; it treacherously constantly turns downwards with the frame and it is inconvenient to tighten the straps on the move. Also, if you tighten the strap too much, then if you fall, the leg will not be able to easily free itself from the stirrup and this can lead to very serious injuries to the knee and hip joint. If you do not tighten the strap of the toe clips, then their effectiveness as pedals greatly decreases, leaving you only able to pull your leg forward in the upper position. Thus, toe clips can be called the most unsafe pedals. At the moment, this is a completely extinct type of pedal, which can only be found on ancient, rare bicycles or sometimes on the cheapest road bicycles due to their unprecedented cheapness, and even more so as a demonstration of “how our grandfathers rode.”

The next evolutionary stage in the development of pedals was contact pedals or in English clipless pedals , i.e. “clampless pedals.” Or just contacts, an established term in the cycling community. These pedals have not one, but two main components: the pedal itself and a special cleat that is attached to the sole of the shoe. The foot is fixed due to the fact that the spike, fixed to the sole of the shoe, is inserted into a special groove on the pedal itself and snaps there.

Attaching highway contacts.

Mountain bike contacts.

The groove on the pedal itself is usually a spring-loaded frame, which allows the cleat to easily snap into place, and when the cleat is turned to the side, it can freely jump out of the frame and thus unfasten. Those. on contact pedals, it is enough to simply turn your foot on the pedal with your heel to the side in order to unfasten yourself from the pedal. Usually this is a reflexive or natural movement of the leg when falling, so you don’t have to worry about the safety of the knee joint in various incidents. The foot can also be released from the contact pedal with a very large force, not to the side, but upward from the pedal. This force is usually adjustable, i.e. The spring stiffness of the frame in the pedal is adjustable.

In order to pull your leg up from the contact pedal, you need more force than the cyclist himself can develop by pulling his leg up on the pedal while twisting, but it is quite sufficient, which develops during a head-on collision with any obstacle or very sharp braking. All this allows, by analogy with ski boots, to ensure the safety of the leg joints in case of falls. These contact pedals, which can be quilted independently, are also called automatic pedals or simply "automatic machines".

From a safety point of view, automatic contact pedals are the safest pedals, after stomping platforms, of course, because in the latter there is nothing holding the leg at all.

To release, rotate your heel outward.

However, the pedals did not immediately become automatic; some of the first models of contact pedals could only be quilted by hand, i.e. When moving, the cyclist had to lean forward on the pedal and release his leg with his hands. Cyclists called these pedals"death cleanses"or in Russian “dead clamp”, and not so much for their death grip, but for the severity of the consequences that they caused in accidents and falls. Fortunately, no company currently produces anything similar for cycling, and you won’t find such pedals now.

General purpose of contacts, i.e. why are they needed in general?.

1. Pedaling efficiency and power output

Clipless pedals allow you to develop maximum power due to the fact that you can rotate the pedal completely in a circle with each foot individually and act on it in all its positions. This type of pedaling is called circular. The cleat fixed in the pedal allows the foot not only to press on the pedal from above, but to pull the pedal in the lower position and effectively pull the foot towards itself when the pedal is in the rear position and just as successfully push the pedal forward when it is in the upper position. When pulling the leg up, muscles are activated that, when simply stomping the pedal down, do not participate in pedaling at all, all this allows, under equal conditions, to obtain up to 30-40% advantages compared to pedaling on simple stomps.

Why is only 40% and not 200% acceptable? Because the quadriceps major muscle, which is involved in normal stomping, is one of the strongest in the human body, and the remaining muscles involved in circular pedaling still need to be trained in order to get a real effect from the contacts. But in any case, even 30% is a very, very much, just due to just one thing in the bike.

[picture: contact coverage areas]

2. Additional control over the bike

The contacts also allow you to better control the bike in difficult situations, without the fear of losing the pedal with your foot. For example, in order to jump over a small obstacle, it is enough to simply bend your legs sharply while moving forward, pulling the bicycle under you by the pedals. In cross-country cycling racing, contacts allow for more precise control of the entire bike on difficult descents and when passing technically difficult sections when the shaking can simply throw the cyclist off the bike.

The contacts also give complete freedom of action during powerful aggressive attacks and sudden power jerks in cycling, allowing you not to worry about the fact that you can fly your foot off the pedal; the pedal will not go anywhere from under your foot. Sharp and very powerful jerks are typical for road and track cycling, where rapidly developing sprint attacks sometimes require athletes to literally “shoot right off the bat”, exerting titanic efforts and writhing over the frame from the effort. Riding on ordinary trample tracks in such conditions is essentially an act of suicide.

3. Reducing dangerous loads on the knee joint

You don't have to be at full power every time you pedal, but if you're riding stompers, you're forced to concentrate all your effort on just one movement—stomping the pedal down. This is equivalent to squatting on one leg - the entire load falls on one single joint - the knee. It would be more accurate to say that the entire load always passes through this joint. If you pedal in contacts, then you can more evenly distribute the load on the joint, while not only pressing down so hard, but also gaining additional power by pulling your leg up, thereby reducing the pressure load on the joint, which has a positive effect on its health and on the duration of its normal functioning.

II. Classification of pedals, what they are.

We will assume that in general we have figured out what exactly contact pedals are. Now let's talk about what modern pedals generally are. They can be systematized according to many characteristics; we will focus on the most important and common ones.

1) For main purpose

Walking/child pedals. Pedals in which there are no requirements for either high pedaling efficiency or reliability of foot fixation. Designed for leisurely easy riding on a good road in a park, on an inexpensive bicycle, without any pretensions to sport. Most often, in terms of design, these are the simplest “treadmills” that 99% of inexpensive bicycles come with.

Pedals for extreme disciplines. In disciplines such as downhill and freeride and BMX , most often (but not always), but in the stunt disciplines Dirt/Street Jump, Fun Jump, etc. Pedals are always used by design, which are simple platforms, but have a wide platform for the foot, on which there is usually a number of small irregularities (spikes) to prevent the sole of the shoe from slipping. Contact pedals are not used in such sports, most often for obvious reasons. You cannot unfasten and buckle back up while performing a trick on the fly, while jumping with a bicycle.

Mountain bike pedals. Clipless pedals, automatic pedals, used in mountain biking sports disciplines such as cross-country or most all-mountain bikes ( all terrain bike), including walking ones. Most often, they are of a compact design, into which you can quickly snap in and quickly unfasten, and the compact design allows them to work reliably in any dirt, without clogging or reducing reliability.

The metal cleat of mountain bike pedals is small and flat, and the design of shoes for such cleats allows you to secure the cleat so that it does not interfere with normal walking. Mountain bike contact shoes have a tread protruding in height above the cleat, so that you can walk or run in such shoes on the ground or mud and at the same time not slip.

The sole of such shoes can be either elastic and comfortable for walking, or purely sporty and completely rigid. The design of mountain bike clipless pedals is always a compromise between the quality of leg fixation and the reliability of the pedal in a variety of adverse conditions. For speed and convenience of fastening, the pedals themselves are usually double-sided, i.e. You can buckle in without wasting time turning the pedal pad to the desired side, but almost by touch in one movement.

Road pedals. Clipless pedals, automatic pedals used in road cycling. Due to the nature of operation, they rarely get into the mud, and therefore do not experience a compromise in design and are made in such a way that they fix the foot in the pedal as rigidly and clearly as possible, have a large contact area between the shoe and the pedal, and provide maximum stability. The frame itself, which secures the cleat, can be up to a third of the length of the shoe. Due to these dimensions, the pedals are usually single-sided, so as not to excessively increase the weight of the entire structure.

The article uses illustrations from the technical documentation of Shimano® Inc.: SI-42T0A-005, SI-46F0A-001-00, SI-43Y0A; illustrations from the websites of Shimano and Wellgo.

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