11.10.2023
Ignition marking on a mole plow. Construction, repair and maintenance of mole cultivators
The “Mole” motor-cultivator appeared in the early 80s of the last century and immediately gained popularity among rural residents and dacha owners. This is not surprising, because with the help of this agricultural technology, mechanized soil cultivation, as well as planting, care and harvesting, became possible.
Over more than 30 years of its existence, “Mole” has been modified more than once. Such parts as the engine, gearbox, handles, cutters, as well as other equipment (including attachments) were brought to perfection. Having gone through a difficult path of improvements, we no longer received the original motor cultivator, which has some limitations in operation, but a multifunctional motorized device, with which we can easily carry out the following field work:
- plowing the soil;
- cutting beds;
- planting potatoes;
- spud of plants;
- weeding plants from weeds;
- mechanized potato harvesting;
- mowing;
- irrigation;
- transportation of bulk and piece goods;
- snow removal.
In order to perform all of the above work, you need to acquire the appropriate tools. You can find out more in the article about on our website.
Crow's feet 
Weeder Okunchik T Plow
Mounted mower Pump unit 
Diggers Potato digger KRT-1
No matter how powerful your unit is, no matter how much you care for it, sometimes it still requires repair - the engine won’t start, the engine gets hot, or some other malfunction... To know how to repair a motor cultivator, you need to understand its structure.
Device
Let's get acquainted with the typical diagram of this Mole motor cultivator
Once you have become familiar with the structure of the unit, you can safely move on to the repair and maintenance of motor cultivators.
Common breakdowns
What machine elements may require the operator's close attention?
Engine 
Magneto MB-1K 
Carburetor K60V 
Gearbox 
Air filter
Let's list them:
- motor;
- magneto, ignition system;
- carburetor;
- gearbox;
- air filter, etc.
Now let’s take a closer look at all those malfunctions that can affect the performance of the unit, no matter what model it belongs to.
Spark plug
Does not start
So, what to do if the “Mole” does not start, what could be the reasons for this? The ignition fails or there is no ignition at all in the following cases:
- No spark. This could mean the spark plug is burnt out. In this case, you need to unscrew it and simply replace it with a new working one.
- The spark plug is smoked. A good cleaning will bring it back to life (remove carbon deposits, clean the contact), after which the spark plug must be thoroughly rinsed in gasoline.
- If the cultivator does not start, but there is a spark, then most likely the reason is a lack of insulation. We look at the candle again, in this case it is wet or slightly damp. You don't have to change the entire spark plug; you only need to replace the tip.
- Poor quality fuel may cause the cultivator to fail to ignite. It is for this reason that the spark gets wet, after which you will have to change the tip.
- Fuel dripping from the spark plug is another reason why the car will not start. To rectify the situation, it is necessary to drain the cylinder by bleeding the engine using a manual starter.
- The reason for the lack of ignition may also be problems with the fuel supply hoses. To restore the operation of the cultivator, it is necessary either to properly tighten the hoses, or, in case of rupture, replace them with new ones.
- Poor insulation of the electrical system (high and low voltage wires) can also cause the unit to not start.
- Pay attention to the air filter. If it is dirty, then problems with ignition are guaranteed. It needs to be either cleaned or replaced. Most often they resort to the second option, fortunately, this spare part is available both in price and in availability in the store.
- Failure of the magneto itself. This part cannot be repaired and is immediately replaced with a new one. How to check the magneto of the “Mole” motor-cultivator to make sure it is faulty? Yes, it’s very simple - if all the reasons why there may be no spark are excluded, then the cause of the malfunction is in the magneto. Many craftsmen rework the working magneto, thereby increasing its service life.
This is what the Magneto ignition circuit for the “Mole” motor cultivator might look like
- There may be no ignition if the flywheel plates jam the magneto cores.
- An incorrectly set gap between the electrodes will not allow a spark to escape.
Video review of the modernization of the ignition of the “Mole” motor cultivator
As you have seen, setting the ignition is not so difficult.
Engine
The main reasons that the “Mole” engine does not start are:
- lack of fuel (or its low quality);
- ignition problems discussed above;
- the appearance of decompression and, as a result, piston wear and deformation of the exhaust valve.
In the first case, it is enough to simply fill in the required amount of fuel (a mixture of gasoline with M-8V autolom oil) and all problems will be resolved. In the case of a compression failure, you will have to completely disassemble the engine and replace damaged parts, and this could be a piston or an o-ring.
Deformation of the exhaust valve becomes another cause of compression failure, which leads first to a loss of power of the “Mole” motor-cultivator, and then to starting problems.
To restore engine functionality, it is necessary to completely disassemble it. Having assessed the condition of the piston, replace it if necessary. We change the piston rings and exhaust valve. We examine the engine head, in particular the gas distribution mechanism, and if there is carbon deposits, we clean it. If structural elements are damaged, we replace them with serviceable ones.
Motor selection
During the Soviet Union, only domestically produced two-stroke single-piston engines were used, which were not particularly powerful. Today you can find “Mole” with a four-stroke imported engine. But if you still have the first model of a cultivator in your arsenal, then upgrading your “Mole” by replacing the motor is not at all difficult.
And here a new question arises: which engine is better to install on the unit? It’s not difficult to answer - those models that are installed in newer cars are suitable.
Engine Hammermann CF 168 F65 Engine GeoTec Engine Subaru
Engine Honda GX160 
Engine Briggs&Stratton 550 Engine Lifan 168 F-2
It is best to replace the domestic engine with an imported one:
- Hammermann
- GeoTec
- Subaru
- Honda
- Briggs&Stratton
- Lifan
Any of them will not only give the motor-cultivator a new life, but will also significantly increase the power and service life of the unit.
Engine Lifan 168 F-2
An excellent solution would be to install the Lifan engine on the “Mole” motor-cultivator. Such a motor provides the car with a long life, because in addition to reliability and efficiency, Lifans also stand out for their unpretentiousness and definitely do not require additional attention.
Video review of replacing the engine on a Lifan 168 F-2 with a Mole cultivator
Carburetor
Carburetor K60V
What is a carburetor and why do you need to adjust it? A carburetor is a small device designed to produce a fuel-air mixture. This mixture, with the help of a piston and a spark plug, will be maximally compressed and ignited, and the engine will start and continue to operate.
Carburetor adjustment must be carried out after the first working season.
Carburetor adjustment is one of the mandatory points included in the “maintenance” section of the unit. Thanks to timely inspection and repair, the service life of the cultivator will increase. In addition, inspection and adjustment are also necessary when the engine roars strongly for no apparent reason.
Before we start setting up, we need to familiarize ourselves with the design of the carburetor of the “Mole” cultivator:
So, to debug the fuel supply and ensure the required speed, you need to turn to two screws: the number of revolutions (in the figure) and the quality of the fuel (figure). Using these two screws, we adjust the fuel supply to the carburetor of the “Mole” motor-cultivator at idle speed. You must act very carefully; first check the state of the ignition.
Important! Thoroughly clean the carburetor, where necessary - strip it, wash it, where necessary - change parts. Then the Mole motor cultivator will serve you for a very long time.
Owners of the unit are often interested in how to start the “Mole” cultivator after winter. The reason for the lack of ignition is condensation in the carburetor that has accumulated during inactivity at changing temperatures. Complete disassembly of the device and further cleaning will help solve this problem. All kinds of additives found in low-quality fuel and dust that has seeped through the filter will also not contribute to the operation of the device.
Gearbox
Gearbox
The main task of the gearbox is to transmit torque from the engine to the shaft. The transmission of motion is carried out using a V-belt transmission. You can learn more about the design and repair of the gearbox of the “Mole” motor-cultivator by watching the video.
Video review of the Mole motor-cultivator gearbox
Reverse
The first modifications of the “Mole” are not equipped with a reverse function (reverse speed), which somewhat affected their performance characteristics and ease of working with such attachments as a cart, snow blower, mower, etc. To modify the “Mole”, the manufacturer released new modifications of it , already with a reverse function, which significantly increased the mobility of the cultivator.
Video review of the reverse function on the Mole motor-cultivator
Drive belt
Drive belt
The drive belt transmits torque from the engine to the gearbox. The cause of breakdown of the “Mole” motor-cultivator is often a rupture of the drive belt. This occurs due to the belt jamming during operation due to heavy loads on the working parts of the cultivator (hard soils, blunt cutters). The cutter bends and catches the belt with the knife, thereby rendering it unusable.
Drive belts for the “Mole” cultivator can have various modifications, but their dimensions are strictly defined:
- 710 mm;
- 750 mm.
Maintenance
What does maintenance mean? This is a series of measures that ensure proper operation and proper storage of equipment. Maintenance of the “Mole” cultivator means the following work:
- washing;
- cleaning;
- lubricant;
- control;
- gas station;
- control;
- fasteners;
- adjustment of all blocks and systems
Such work must be done as often as possible, especially if you have to work in unfavorable conditions.
Before starting the cultivator engine, it is necessary to check the presence of fuel, oil, etc. It is necessary to fill the mixture to a certain level, and if necessary, replace the fuel and oil. For cultivators, Avtol oil (M-8V) is used, which proved itself during the Soviet Union.
Oil 8-B Oil 10W-30 
SAE 30 oil
If it is difficult to get it, then you can use analogues:
- 10W-30 (do not use at temperatures above +27 degrees);
- SAE 30 (do not use at temperatures below +4 degrees).
Adjustment work involves adjusting the clutch, reverse gear, carburetor, spark, etc.
Cleaning work includes cleaning the filter, working surfaces, housing and all clogged parts on the surface of the Mole motor-cultivator. If malfunctions occur, or for preventive purposes (less often), it is necessary to clean the internal parts of the machine.
Before putting any part back in its original place, make sure it is in good working order.
Installation or replacement of any attachments must be carried out with the engine completely turned off. When preparing for long-term storage, the motor cultivator requires conservation. To do this, you need to prepare the engine in a certain way (see instructions), then clean (rinse) and dry all the external parts of the “Mole”, wipe them with a rag, drying them well. After this, you need to lubricate all accessible areas of the cultivator with grease. The unit is now ready for a long rest.
If you are looking for the optimal price-quality ratio, we recommend that you pay attention to the domestic Mole walk-behind tractor, which has been produced since 1983. The walk-behind tractor is still produced today in the Moscow and Omsk machine-building plants. In recent years, high-quality technical characteristics have allowed it to successfully compete with many foreign units. But there are also times when you don’t know why the Mole walk-behind tractor doesn’t start, or it doesn’t start well, or there’s no spark in it. Maybe the starter needs repair, or maybe the ignition is not working properly. In general, this issue and the reasons should be carefully examined.
The device of the Mole walk-behind tractor
Motoblocks, which were characterized by simplicity of design, began to be produced more than forty years ago. The first models were equipped with an insufficiently powerful engine and could only be used in a narrow range of jobs.
The first buyers of Mole were not very happy with the insufficient power of the power unit; as a result of numerous complaints, they began to improve the walk-behind tractor. Today, the Mole model is the most successful and versatile model of domestic cultivators among all those on the market.
Small in size, it can be used for various purposes: weeding, loosening, harrowing, leveling. The walk-behind tractor can be used even on a small plot of land, the area of which does not exceed 10 acres.
Now you can buy any equipment in earthworks stores, but many farms use walk-behind tractors and motor-cultivators from the stagnation era.
Other owners have been using Mole walk-behind tractors for 20 years and suddenly there is a breakdown - the MB-1 electronic ignition unit has failed.
The main disadvantage of the MB-1 electronic unit is its miniaturization and circuit defects,
Although there is a proven option with light motorcycles and mopeds - a generator coil, electronic filling and an ignition coil - there are separate components and no problems in the ignition system.
And in MB-1, the winding of the generator coil is made with very thin wiring and the ignition coil is small, and most importantly, the electronic part of the circuit is located on the engine crankcase and heats up to 80 degrees. And the KU202N thyristor used in the circuit is designed for 75 degrees. That's why there are constant malfunctions. The same thyristors were used in ignition circuits used on light motorcycles and mopeds and worked reliably. The thin winding wire of the generator coil does not allow generating more current and installing a storage capacitor of 1 µF.
Try to separate these ignition elements. I’ll give you an example of how a friend from the forum improved the ignition unit.
A car ignition coil was found. An electronic circuit is mounted in the body of the burnt switch.
The ignition coil was mounted on the steering wheel plate of the walk-behind tractor.
What remained from the original MB-1 unit was a generator coil and a sensor coil; in place of the original ignition coil, I installed a second generator coil,
you just need to adjust the seat to fit it.
A flywheel with four magnets is installed on the walk-behind tractor, one of them is turned upside down, so as not to overthink the phrasing of the windings - each generator coil has its own diode bridge.
After all the modifications - repeated ignition reliability. Military-grade T 122-25-8 thyristor, thousand-volt diode bridge, eternal ignition coil.
Electrical ignition circuit:
The figure on the right shows the connection of the generator coils. Connect at points A B in the left diagram.
Diode bridge – RC207.
Capacitor C 1 - 1 µF.
Thyristor - 10 amperes and 800 volts. I installed - T 122-25-8. 25 A 800 V.
Diode VD1 - type HER308, fast acting.
Diode VD2-1N4007.
Resistor R1- within 2 kOhm.
The best part is that starting a walk-behind tractor is a pleasure.
Heating should be carried out slowly, until the entire volume is completely warmed up - usually in the thermostat this takes 30...40 minutes. The coils may not withstand this temperature, so they must be removed before heating. If the epoxy cools down during cutting, heating must be repeated
What is a magneto?
Magneto is a magnetoelectric machine that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy. Currently, it is sometimes used in ignition systems for internal combustion engines. In telephony it is usually called an inductor.
Not every generator is called a “magneto”. This name applies only to generators in internal combustion engines:
excited by a permanent magnet and
combined in one product with an ignition coil.
The magneto magnetic system can be common to the emf generator. and ignition coils.
Often the spark plug is the only load on the magneto.
Design and operation
Magneto is a specialized alternating current generator excited by a rotating permanent magnet (magnetic rotor or armature).
An automobile magneto has low and high voltage windings. The breaker contacts and a capacitor (~0.1 µF) are connected in parallel with the low voltage (LV) winding; the leads of the high voltage winding (HV) are connected one to the housing, the other to the spark plug. All windings are wound on a yoke (core) and look like one large coil on a U-shaped core; between the poles of the core there is a longitudinally magnetized rotating magnet (telephone and mine-explosive (KPM) inductors are designed differently, but the principle of operation is the same). A low voltage winding can act as part of the high voltage winding, that is, an autotransformer design is possible, this allows you to reduce the number of turns of the high voltage winding.
Peculiarities.
Repair.
Ignition unit MB-1.
L1 – generator coil, d=0.063mm, W=11000 turns, R=3000 ohm; L2 – control coil, d=0.1mm, W=1200 turns, R=80 ohm; T1 – high-voltage transformer, d1=0, 28mm, W1=75 turns, R1=0.5 ohm, d 2=0.063mm, W2=6900 turns, R2=2000 ohm;E – electronic unit;C1 – capacitor 0.47 uF 630V;R1 – resistor 390 ohm 0 ,25 W;V1–V5 – diodes, correspond to KD 209;V6 – thyristor corresponds to KU 202
Before starting repairs, it is necessary to determine according to which circuit the ignition unit is assembled. Option one. It is necessary to measure the resistance of the generator coil L1 and the secondary winding of transformer T1, the resistance of the control coil L2 and the primary winding of transformer T1, it is not necessary to measure, it is enough to check them for an open. Then check the serviceability of the thyristor control circuit by measuring the resistance. We connect one probe to the sealed terminal going to resistor R1, the second to ground. In one direction, the resistance should be equal to the sum of the resistances of the resistor and the direct junction of the diode V5, approximately 2 - 4 kohms. In the other ∞. If all the windings and the thyristor control circuit are in good condition, it is necessary to make a drilling with a diameter of 1.5-3 mm at the point of connection of the anode of the thyristor V6 with the capacitor C1 (point A), and having soldered the coils, check the diodes V1-V4 and the capacitor for serviceability C1. If one of the diodes is faulty, it can be soldered by surface mounting, having first destroyed the old faulty diode by drilling. It is better to use a drill for this purpose.
If capacitor C1 is faulty, it must be removed, a new one inserted and the lead soldered to the indicated point, then filled back with epoxy glue.
If the thyristor malfunctions, I recommend replacing the block circuit completely, first removing the old one, soldering it by surface mounting and filling it with epoxy glue.
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Additionally, if the resistance of the thyristor control circuit is greater than normal, the circuit's contact with ground may be broken; to restore it, it is necessary to: remove the M3 bolt from the glue, unscrew it, clean the contact and tighten it again, but with a new one (point B), or simply solder the hanging conductor , connecting it to the magneto housing. |
A new magneto costs about 500 rubles, but if you have at least some skills in working with a soldering iron, then it is much cheaper to make an “eternal” magneto on your own and for almost nothing - the price of the parts is 12 rubles.
We will prepare the tools for work: soldering iron, tweezers, scissors, drill, screwdriver, multimeter. Materials: PCB plate 5x5 cm, thickness 1.5-2 mm, piece of wire 20 cm, solder, rosin. Details: thyristor KU202, diodes KD105 (KD106) - 5 pcs., resistance 1.2 kOhm.
First of all, by unscrewing two screws, remove the magneto assembly.
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| We unsolder the wires from the coil terminals. | Using a tester, we check the serviceability of the coils by ringing them for open circuits and short circuits to the housing. |
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| Using a heated soldering iron, remove the top layer of compound from the electronic board... | ...and, unscrewing the screw, remove the board. |
| Rice. 1. Methods for checking magneto coils. | ||
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The ohmmeter readings correspond to the good condition of the coils. |  |
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| We cut out a new board from PCB and prepare the parts for installation. | Using wire cutters we shorten the thyristor leads. We saw off its leg according to the thickness of the nut, leaving 6-7 millimeters... |
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| ...and insert it into the hole in the board. | Screw and tighten the nut on the reverse side. |
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| We solder the remaining parts according to the schematic diagram. | We try the assembled board in place and, making sure that the leads and solder points do not touch the body, screw it in with a screw. |
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| We connect the leads of the diodes to the housing. | Solder coil L1. |
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| We solder one terminal of the capacitor to the body, the other to the terminal from the thyristor nut. | We connect the thyristor leads with a diode and a resistance... |
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| ...and solder it to coil L3. |
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| Rice. 4. Installation diagram. |
When heated to 140...150 degrees (Celsius), the epoxy becomes soft and can be cut with a knife, albeit slowly. Heating should be carried out slowly, until the entire volume is completely warmed up - usually in the thermostat this takes 30...40 minutes. The coils may not withstand this temperature, so they must be removed before heating. If the epoxy cools down during cutting, heating must be repeated.
There are MB-1 filled with organosilicon - this is a rubber-like mass that crumbles relatively easily and is removed without any additional tricks.
Regarding what is burning. Here my statistics are somewhat different from what uv cited. Papan. The capacitor, although it operates in extreme current modes, nevertheless often turns out to be in good working order. Most often the diodes turned out to be faulty, then the coils, then the thyristor, then the capacitor.
When replacing elements, good results are obtained with 1N4007 diodes and KU709V/KU712V thyristors. In principle, a diode can be installed counter-parallel to the thyristor - this will slightly increase the energy and duration of the spark. To further increase the values of these characteristics, you can replace the half-wave rectifier with a bridge rectifier; the above-mentioned diode is not needed.
It is advisable to set the thyristor response level to 600-700 rpm - this will provide a larger range of regulation of the ignition timing (as they say now: torque) when changing speed, at the cost of a slight deterioration in starting. In any case, after replacing the thyristor or elements in the circuit of its control electrode, the installation of the SPD will almost always be damaged, which, in the absence of a stand, will require additional adjustments on the engine.
Adviсe
How to adjust the carburetor on a chainsaw?
If you have a need to adjust the carburetor of a chainsaw, then our article will help you. So, the carburetor has 3 adjusting screws: screw L - low speed, screw H - high speed and screw T - idle.
Using screws H and L, the ratio of air and fuel and lubricant mixture is adjusted, which is determined when the throttle valve is opened. If you tighten the screws (clockwise), the mixture becomes leaner and the speed decreases. If you unscrew the screws (counterclockwise), the mixture becomes richer and the speed increases. Using screw T, the idle speed is adjusted. In a clockwise direction, the number of revolutions increases and vice versa.
The main adjustment of the chainsaw carburetor is made at the manufacturer's factory when testing the chainsaw. The carburetor is adjusted to a mixture richer than optimal. This adjustment should remain during the first hours of operation of the saw. Then fine adjustments are made.
When the chain rotates at idle speed, screw T is turned counterclockwise until the chain stops. Precise carburetor adjustment is carried out only in a warm state by highly qualified specialists using special equipment (revolution counter). First of all, adjust screw L, after H and finally screw T.
1) First, you need to find the highest idle speed, while slowly turning screw L. After finding such revolutions, screw L is turned counterclockwise by 1/4 turn. In the case when the chain rotates at idle, you need to turn the screw T counterclockwise until the chain stops.
2) Adjusting screw H affects power and speed. If you adjust the carburetor to a lean mixture, you will get excessive speed and eventually the saw will fail.
After warming up the engine at full speed for 10 seconds, you need to turn screw H 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Next, the engine should run for about 10 seconds. We check the maximum speed using a tachometer. If the maximum speed does not coincide with the passport speed, then you need to repeat the operation. In this case, the engine should sound like a four-stroke.
3) Next, fine adjustment of the idle speed is carried out using screw T. If such adjustment is needed, screw T is turned clockwise with the engine running until the saw chain begins to rotate. And then the screw is turned in the opposite direction until the chain stops rotating.
If the engine accelerates immediately and sounds like a four-stroke engine at full throttle, then the chainsaw carburetor has been adjusted correctly.
Generator from spare magneto
To equip the motor with an electric generator, the capacitors should be removed from the magneto and mounted, for example, on the crankcase flange between the muffler and the ignition coils. It is better to place the capacitors in a protective case and secure them in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of vibration of both the capacitors themselves and their terminals.
The vacated threaded holes in the base of the magneto, intended for attaching capacitors, must be plugged with studs or rods made of aluminum alloy. You need to install a generator coil from another magneto on the racks, having previously squandered the space between the racks so that the coil frame fits there.
Pressing the core against the posts with shoes, you need to mark the centers of the holes for its fastening. Threaded holes for fastening the core should be made through.
The coil leads can be secured with clamps under the core fastening screws and passed through the holes in the base of the magneto.
The generator produces maximum power at a current of 1.5-1.7 A and a voltage of 18 - 20 V, so for the headlight it is necessary to select a light bulb that corresponds to these parameters. Bulbs rated at 1 A or less must have a nominal voltage of 24 V.
Characteristics
How to check the ignition coil (magneto) of a chainsaw?
Very often we come across situations where tool users come with faulty coils. Often the coils actually turn out to be faulty, but often the magneto has nothing to do with tool failure. The steps to check the serviceability of the ignition coil are described below.
Before you start checking the ignition coil, you should check the serviceability of the entire circuit. Do the following:
Visually assess the absence of cracks and visible defects on the coil body
Contamination of conductive elements and components
Serviceability and insulation of high-voltage and low-voltage wires, wire contacts, reliability of their fastening, absence of rust at fastening points
The high-voltage wire near the spark plug cap is often damaged - check for serviceability. Any “snot” in this place reduces the quality of the electric arc of the spark plug
Check the serviceability of the spark plug
Check that the circuit breaker is working properly.
Method 1: resistance measurement. This method is applicable when the resistance parameters of the coil windings are well known.
Method 2: using a device that checks for the presence of a spark. It is mounted in the open circuit between the spark plugs and the high-voltage wire of the ignition coil. The device is expensive and is used mainly in serious service centers.
Method 3: a little barbaric. It is used at your own risk in hopeless situations.
Remove the cap from the candle and insert a nail into it. Be careful not to damage the inside of the cap - then put it back on the candle and use it. If the nail has a head, it may be difficult to remove it.
Place the nail 6-7mm from the cylinder.
- “start” the saw, that is, perform the usual actions when starting the saw. This will force the ignition system to work. Please note that the candle must be screwed into the spark plug hole.
Look at the presence and color of the spark. Ideally, the spark should be “strong” and bright blue. Everything else is a sign of a malfunction.
Important points:
The spark plug must not be unscrewed: lack of compression will lead to faster rotation of the flywheel, which will not correspond to real operating conditions
If there are electronic components in the ignition system, then this method can damage them
Basically, chainsaws and lawn mowers do not require setting ignition angles. Only the gap between the flywheel and the coil is adjusted. It should be 0.2-0.4mm (approximately the thickness of flat plastic on a water bottle or the walls of an aluminum can folded in half. They can be cut out and sandwiched between the flywheel and the reel). In each case, it is better to clarify the size of the gap in the instructions.
The distance between the nail and the cylinder simulates the compression and dielectric properties of the fuel mixture. The distance of 6-7mm is approximate and may differ on different product models. But the philosophy is the same: there must be a large gap, the spark must be “strong” and bright blue
Magnets cannot fall out of the flywheel until there is excessive physical impact on them.
The coil is fastened securely enough and the screws are unlikely to unscrew on their own. Exception: initially loosely tightened
With your own hands
Four years ago I purchased a used mini-tractor AMZHK-8. It is equipped with a four-stroke two-cylinder carburetor engine SK-12-20 with an ignition system from a contactless left-hand rotation magneto 13.3728 with two sockets for high-voltage wires. At the time of purchase, the magneto was inoperative, and all attempts to bring it back to life were unsuccessful. There was not enough finance to purchase a new magneto after purchasing a mini-tractor, and there was no time to look for a new one.
An old decommissioned M-149A double-spark contact magneto of left-hand rotation turned up. After thinking a little, I removed the transformer, the distribution rotor (runner) and the coal from the distributor cover from the housing. What remains is a movable and fixed plate with a breaker and a capacitor. Instead of a magneto rotor, I machined a roller to the dimensions shown in the figure. On one end of the roller I pressed the magneto drive coupling half, and on the other - a cam with one protrusion cut off. The magneto bearings were replaced with ball-radial bearings No. 201.
The cam is pressed onto the almost assembled body and secured with a screw from the end of the roller, taking into account the ignition timing. I took the ignition coil from a Dnepr motorcycle. The B-204 coil has two high-voltage terminals. I placed it in a suitable plastic box in the place of least heat from the engine.
The wiring was done according to the motorcycle battery ignition circuit. The ignition is adjusted by turning the magneto housing in the mounting socket and turning the movable breaker plate.
The system has been working flawlessly for three years. The only condition is the presence of a battery.
Prices / Order
500 rubles
Firms
If you are interested in high-quality repair of chainsaws in Moscow, the Tekhnosad-Service service center has created optimal conditions for eliminating all possible problems. We know that gas chain tools require more maintenance than other garden equipment. There are several reasons for this. Firstly: dirty working conditions. Secondly: the high loads that chainsaws experience. Third: irregular use after long-term storage. Proper maintenance and timely repair of a chainsaw is a guarantee of a long service life of the equipment and maintaining its efficiency.
We provide a full range of services for the maintenance and repair of chainsaws:
Chain sharpening
A sharpened chain has a decisive influence on the quality of the chainsaw. A saw with a dull chain will burn rather than cut through the wood. The saw chain tends to become dull easily when in contact with stones, metal or soil. Professional saw sharpening is the best way out. Only a professional can sharpen all the teeth evenly so that the saw does not lose efficiency.
Chain tension
Saw chains may stretch during use. A loose chain may break during operation. To ensure safe operation of the chainsaw, you should regularly check the chain tension at a service center.
Lubrication
The design of modern saws provides automatic lubrication. If this is not the case in your case, you will need to add oil every time you refuel. Due to lack of oil, the saw set may fail. After starting the saw, it is necessary to check the operation of the lubrication system: if the system is working correctly, oil splashes should be visible on the surface of the saw.
Protective equipment
To ensure safe operation of the chainsaw, it is necessary to periodically check the proper functioning of the chain brake. The chain should stop at idle speed; if this does not happen, the centrifugal clutch must be serviced.
Fuel
Oil and gasoline must be mixed in a certain proportion. If the proportion is violated, the chainsaw engine can quickly fail. If you expect to use up gasoline within a month, it is worth adding a stabilizing additive to it. For an idle engine, it is best to have no fuel in the tank, thereby preventing engine malfunctions the next time you start it.
Maintenance
Essential engine maintenance includes such procedures as regular cleaning and replacement of the air filter, cleaning and replacement of the spark arrester, cleaning of the engine cooling fins, and replacement of the spark plug. In some cases, carburetor adjustment may be necessary.
Most chainsaw maintenance procedures can be performed independently, but only by entrusting the maintenance and repair of saws and other gas-powered tools to professionals, you guarantee safe operation and reliable operation of the gas-powered tool. The specialized service center "Tehnosad-Service" has all the resources to perform regular maintenance of chainsaws and power tools at the highest level. http://www.service.tehnosad.ru/
