Vibration insulation thickness for car doors. That is why soundproofing car doors is the most important stage of our work! Getting rid of extraneous squeaks and rattles

How to cover a car with soundproofing yourself

How to seal a car with sound insulation yourself is an urgent question for any owner, regardless of the model and brand of the car. In recent years, they have been saving on sound insulation, so it is either very weak or absent altogether.
The process is not at all complicated, but everyone wants to save money, so it is only important to know what you can use to make sound insulation in a car, have the necessary tools and read our recommendations and advice, and after that you will do it no worse than the masters of this matter.

Newbie mistakes

The most common mistakes made by car enthusiasts when making sound insulation.

With the choice of contractor company

A mistake when choosing a workshop threatens with poor quality work, a banal loss of money and, as a result, a lack of sound insulation effect, and the most unpleasant thing, in this case, is that you will conclude that it does not give any effect

Your presence in the room, craftsmen are working on your car

As a rule, craftsmen do not like it when clients constantly poke their nose into their work:

• This is what most of the masters I know personally think so.
• When someone is constantly standing over your soul and looking under your hands while you work, even from you you can expect a very hostile reaction
• Almost no one likes it when someone constantly asks “will everything be ready soon?”, gets in the way, simply gets in the way, or starts giving advice, pestering with questions, all this distracts, creates an atmosphere of nervousness, accordingly, such behavior, as a rule, does not affect the results in the best way

Haste and lack of plan

When you are really excited about soundproofing and want to do it immediately:

• Starting work without planning will be fraught with a huge loss of time and, of course, money
• You may have to go several times to get a tool that you will be missing.
• It may happen that you have to redo the work again
• Once glued and then torn off, sound insulation is no longer suitable for reuse - again a loss of money
• In addition, the process of soundproofing is a task that requires a lot of time and effort, so you should take into account time and effort (you won’t be able to do it in an hour or two), here you will have to be patient, persistent and hardworking, especially if you are a beginner

Wrong choice of materials

This is one of the most common and unpleasant mistakes, caused by not knowing how to properly soundproof a car:

• As a rule, good, and even better, materials always cost good money
• Here, the habit of saving easily leads to new expenses
• Not only will they begin to peel off prematurely, which leads to corrosion of the body, the effect of such will be weak, and you will again be able to claim that the sound insulation does not work
• In addition, low-quality materials can be harmful to health; when they are in the cabin, they will poison the air with fumes, and you and your passengers will have to breathe

Error with choosing the sound insulation level

When at first you decide that it is enough just to soundproof the car to a minimum, then you will begin to think that it was necessary to do it better, more expensive, thicker, but this, as a rule, is a problem for very economical people and perfectionists

Error in selecting work location

The Internet is full of descriptions and photographs of the do-it-yourself soundproofing process, which is carried out out of nowhere:

• Right on the street, near the office, on the side of the road and others
• The problem here will be the fact that in the wrong place where you will do your noise insulation, you will either be extremely uncomfortable, or the onset of night will catch you at the most inopportune moment
• And the most unpleasant thing is that in this case something will certainly be stolen from you, right from under your hands, you can lose not only tools but also interior elements, a mobile phone, a radio tape recorder, a DVR, etc.

Using inappropriate tools

Let's figure out how to make noise insulation in a car, if all the work is done with just a screwdriver - both disassembling the car and rolling in vibration insulation, then it will be at least difficult, although it seems possible:

• However, if you want to do the job efficiently (so that nothing falls off later), disassemble/assemble the machine without any problems, then you will need the appropriate tools

Lack of self-confidence

• to drown out external noise and improve the sound quality of music
• On own experience I will say that even the most primitive “noise” of the doors gives a wonderful effect; the music in the cabin begins to play noticeably better
• With a minimal door gluing program, you will only need vibration-proofing material, vibroplast vibroplast "silver" or "gold" You need to glue from the inside of the door directly opposite the column
• It is important to glue the largest area with vibration-proofing material, the quality of the insulation depends on this
• Here, too, it is better to take into account the weight of the material; if you make the door too heavy, then over time it will sag and you will have to replace the hinges
• If you have a powerful audio system and want to improve its sound, then you can’t get away with minimal sizing
• An integrated approach and at least four layers are required (photo below)

• The first layer is glued to the inside of the doors, where the material is glued through special holes
• You can again use silver class vibroplast (or bimast bombs) behind the speaker
• And as a second layer, lay 4mm splen (or Accent) on top of the vibration-isolating material.
• Next, we soundproof the doors from the outside.
• In this option, you need to completely seal all the technological holes, and make the volume of the door almost airtight, in which the speaker will play
• However, it is worth leaving the drainage holes open to prevent condensation from accumulating in the doors.
• Cover the outside with vibroplast of the silver class and on top of it with an accent or spleen
• The next step is to soundproof the door cards so that they do not make squeaks and other unnecessary sounds.
• This is where the anti-squeak material “bitoplast” comes in handy.
• In this zone, the thicker the layer, the better.
• We carry out the “crickets” inside the doors and paste the rods and handles with the help of Madeleine - this is an anti-creak
• The rear doors are treated like the front doors
• If they do not have speakers, then we reduce the number of layers and choose a thinner type of material

Let's move to the roof

So:

• We soundproof the roof to reduce external noise from rain, eliminate its vibration, and to remove “crickets”:
• You already understand how to apply soundproofing to a car.
• After gluing the ceiling, the effect in the rain is simply amazing - even in pouring rain, only muffled impacts remain inside the cabin, almost unnoticeable and not causing discomfort
• Here you can use vibroplast silver, weight is important, the higher the weight of the roof, the more the center of gravity will shift, we recommend using an accent of 4 or 8 millimeters, even in two layers
• The possibilities are limited to being able to install the ceiling lining in place without interference

Underbody of the car

Sound insulation of the bottom is done to reduce noise from the road surface, and from impacts from pebbles on the bottom of the car:

• Here you can use the best vibration absorbers and good layers, overlapping, just do not glue the fasteners, otherwise problems will arise when assembling the interior
• On top again Accent, a small thickness is better, but in two layers, here the wider the coverage area, the better the effect
• Close attention should be paid to the places of the wheel arches inside the cabin, it is better to paste them thicker (in two or three layers), use “bimast bombs” as a vibration insulator, in its absence vibroplast gold

Trunk and wheel arches

There is a lot of noise and squeaks in the trunk area, so you shouldn’t skip it:

• Particular attention should be paid to the spare wheel niche; if possible, it should be completely covered with vibration-isolating material
• The second layer is sound absorber Accent
• Glue all the trim in the trunk with anti-squeak material “bitoplast”
• Soundproofing wheel arches is necessary to increase comfort in the cabin

Instructions for soundproofing wheel arches from the outside:

• Remove the wheels
• Remove the plastic fender liners (you can’t throw them away, they serve as good sound insulators)
• Then clean off the dirt and glue vibration-insulating material onto the surface of the arch, preferably “gold class vibroplast”
• Ideally, use “liquid” noise insulation such as “Noxidol”, it is easier to apply and works better, it weighs less and has excellent anti-corrosion protection; along with the arches, the bottom can also be treated from the outside

This is how all fender liners are soundproofed

• If you do the job well, then the impacts of the stones should be completely inaudible

How can I replace sound insulation in a car?
An excellent question, you just have to ask it to local “craftsmen” and they will give you a bunch of advice from building sound insulation to linoleum with felt:

• Construction noise is usually used outside, so inside the cabin it can be toxic, in the engine compartment it can burn or melt, and the effect from it may not live up to expectations
• Felt, even acoustic, is only suitable in a car, because it itself absorbs moisture, pulls it from the air, so the body of the car will quickly begin to rust, then felt is by no means a cheap pleasure
• To use felt in a car, it should be sealed in polyethylene
• There is no talk at all about the use of other “alternative” materials

I have everything, additionally watch the video on your specific model.

Sound insulation of car doors is as important as the “noise” of the entire car. A large amount of unwanted noise from the roadway comes through the doors. After this process is completed, the following is observed:

• reduction of external sounds, most of which are created by passing cars;
• doors close much more quietly due to their increased mass;
• improving the sound of audio systems.

We should not forget about the disadvantage that is the sagging of the door due to the increase in its weight after vibration and noise insulation.

Selection of materials for noise and vibration insulation

Vibration-absorbing materials are used to reduce “structural noise” - sounds that are produced as a result of vibration of the metal elements of the car, namely:

• engine;
• transmissions;
• suspension elements.

This will allow you to achieve a good result. These materials have an adhesive base, which allows installation quite quickly and without the use of additional tools. This glue also has sealing properties that help protect metal body parts from corrosion.

All these materials are made on the basis of bitumen or mastic with or without the use of aluminum foil:

Sound-absorbing materials are used to isolate extraneous sounds. They are based on foamed (porous) fabric - polyethylene. Depending on the properties and qualities of a given insulator, they are available with or without foil coating. “Accent” (open-cell structure) and “isoton” (coated with a metallized film) are the main representatives of this group.

The “advantages” include high thermal insulation properties, since noise and sound insulation substances have low thermal conductivity.

Soundproofing materials are necessary to isolate your vehicle from outside noise. They are a secondary material and are used after vibration isolators. The main representatives of sound insulation, which are based on polyethylene foam and an adhesive base, are:

• barrier;
• vibrotone;
• splen.

Sound insulation of car door frames

Soundproofing car doors with your own hands is a process that will not take much time. It requires patience and a small number of tools:

• a set of screwdrivers for disassembling the door trim;
• construction hairdryer;
• construction knife or scissors;
• degreaser/solvent;
• stitching roller;
• noise and vibration insulation material.

You also need to decide which Shumka to choose. It depends on what result you want to achieve:

• improving audio quality;
• removing squeaks and vibrations from metal body elements for greater comfort.

The above will determine what kind of car door soundproofing will be used:

• minimal;
• standard;
• maximum.

Let's consider the option of standard door processing. It requires:

• disassemble the door, namely, remove the door trim, protective film (if present) in order to gain full access to all necessary surfaces;
• then treat the internal surfaces with a solvent or degreaser so that no grease, dirt or moisture remains on them;
• after this, the first layer of vibration-insulating material vibroplast M1 is glued to the inside of the door;
• The next stage of the work is applying a layer of sound insulation. It could be splen or accent.

• the technological holes on the door are sealed with aluminum foil cut out in the required shape with a slight overlap (“Viek”);
• After this, vibration insulation (vibroplast M1) is glued onto the aluminum foil. The result is one glued surface consisting of two layers.

When performing all operations, the main thing is not to disrupt the correct operation of all rods and cables, as well as electrical wiring.

In expensive cars, good noise insulation was taken care of at the factory during the design stages. However, with inexpensive brands the situation is often different. The sound insulation that is installed in them is not always able to eliminate unnecessary sounds. Protection is either completely absent, or minimal work has been done on it; accordingly, the comfort when driving such a vehicle is reduced to zero. The noise of the external environment, annoying the driver, encourages him to do sound insulation on his own.

Vibration isolation material

The first and main raw material for sound insulation. It is produced in slabs of certain sizes. Vibration insulators can be bitumen, mastic or bitumen-mastic, with or without foil. The thickness is chosen based on the completeness of the car body.

Vibration isolation material Bimast Bomb

• Combined and bitumen slabs require heating during installation - the efficiency of this isolation will improve. This type of vibration insulator is applied to areas subject to vibration - front and rear wheel arches, underbody, engine compartment, and the application areas must be well cleaned of dirt and dust.
• Mastic based materials , on the contrary, do not require heating before application. They are placed in places inside the car: the trunk floor, under the rear seats, roof, hood and on the car doors.
• Vibration isolators, which include foil , are most convenient to use.

Heat and noise insulation material

Self-adhesive foam material. It copes not only with extraneous noise, but also insulates the interior.

Heat and noise insulating material Splen

• During operation, it is usually glued on top of vibration isolator .
• Does not require preheating.
• Thermal and noise insulating materials include: Splen, Flax, Barrier.

The advantage of thermal and noise insulation is that it does not absorb moisture, but the glue is not resistant to water, so the places where it can be applied are limited.

Soundproofing material

The heaviest and most efficient material, absorbing up to 95% of noise, and having an open-cell structure.

Soundproofing material Isoflex

The most common models: Isoflex, Bitoplast and Accent.

There are models of the NoiseBlock type, which are self-adhesive material and are applied as a third layer to low-density foam soundproofing material (for example, Splen or Barrier). Some of the noise that still passes through the noise-insulating layers is reflected from the NoiseBlock and is dampened. In this way, maximum efficiency is achieved.

Anti-creaking material (anti-creaking)

Self-adhesive material made of fabric, which is glued to those places where machine parts come into contact. Thus, the parts do not create mutual friction during operation, and, accordingly, do not creak.

Anti-creak for car. Also available in the form of ribbons.

• Effectively eliminates squeaks, beatings, and sounds.
• No heat is needed during the application of sound insulation.
• The downside of anti-creaking is the relatively meager range.

The following products are in good demand among buyers: Madeline and Biplast.

Liquid soundproofing material

This modern way car insulation. It is essentially liquid rubber with a complex of additives. It is used for external noise protection and for anti-corrosion treatment of the body.

Liquid sound insulation for a car and how to apply it

• Liquid sound insulation does not absorb moisture. In other words, her can be used in places where the car is in direct contact with water (for example, on the bottom or wheel arches).
• Liquid mastic is resistant to reagents and mechanical stress.
• Before application, the surface must be cleaned of dirt and degreased. Liquid mastic must be applied to cleaned metal. Some types can be applied without first treating the car with a primer.
• It is used in two ways: aerosol coating and painting (brush or roller). If you need insulation from the outside, the spray will be the optimal solution.
• Unlike other materials, liquid sound insulation does not increase the weight of the car and absorbs noise well.
• The price is high, but the service life is not short - 5 years.

When purchasing products, be sure to inquire about documents on quality assurance and compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards. These documents prove high quality and harmlessness to health.

Car soundproofing price

Noise protection is now offered in many places: in private garages or in official car dealerships. Some eliminate noise on their own. The cost also depends on this.

If you decide to make sound insulation yourself, you can use a ready-made kit. It consists of a certain set of materials, diagram vehicle, which shows the places where the kit should be glued.

Average price of ready-made kits for models:

• Class B - from 11,000 to 21,000;
• Class C - from 11,000 to 21,000;
• Class D - from 14,000 to 27,000;
• Crossovers - from 15,000 to 26,000.

The average price for soundproofing the doors and interior of a passenger car with your own hands without using special kits will cost 6,000 - 8,000 rubles.

Professional services will cost significantly more. The price depends on the quality of raw materials, rent (if the premises are rented) and payment to employees. The average cost of sound insulation for an entire middle-class car in all regions is approximately from 30,000 to 40,000 rubles.

Usually the first step is to soundproof the doors. Drivers who have installed insulation note a noticeable dampening of environmental sounds and high-quality music sound. The work should be carried out in rooms where the temperature is more than +15°. In cold weather, at the beginning of work, it is worth opening all the doors and letting the car warm up warmly.

Attention!

Do not disassemble cold plastic - this will lead to its breakage.

Before isolation, you need to prepare the following tools:

• Screwdrivers;
• Stitching roller;
• Shovels for engaging clips and trim;
• Knife for cutting metal;
• Clean rags;
• Degreaser;
• Construction hairdryer.

First, we remove the door trim from the door and remove the film from moisture (often this is standard polyethylene). Afterwards we clean and degrease the door.

Before carrying out soundproofing work on car doors, it is necessary to remove all trim.

It is better to start working with the door panel. It is important to pay attention to the old vibration insulation - if there is damage or deformation, it should be thrown away. We also remove the factory anti-corrosion coating.

Methods for installing sound insulation on car doors

Now let's move on to vibration insulation of the doors. It is not necessary to stick sound insulation on the entire door, the main thing is to paste over a large number of areas.

To achieve maximum sound insulation quality, it is enough to cover 70-80% of the surface

There is no need to glue the door stiffeners. It won't get any worse, and the material will be wasted.

2 mm of vibration isolation is enough for the door, since the thickness of the door metal is small. To ensure that the material lasts a long time, if possible, smooth it with a roller. If indoors low temperature, vibration insulation should first be heated with a hair dryer to +17°.

We install sound insulation on the vibration insulation. The insulation is self-adhesive, but it still needs to be ironed after installation. There is no need to pay attention to the fact that it will not be possible to glue a single sheet of sound insulation; it is almost impossible to install it there whole. The main task is to do everything carefully and cover all open surfaces.

Applying sound insulation to the inside of the door

Then we work with vibration isolation again. In order to have a good effect, the technological holes should be closed. The final surface of the door should look like closed areas.

Step three - anti-squeak treatment. Wrap the wires and rods with 5 mm anti-squeak. We treat the areas of the trim boundaries, removable plastic parts and clips with material.

An example of anti-creaking door treatment

For additional effect You can partially install vibration insulation on the door trim, and completely glue it with a sound absorber on top of it. The difference between them is that the vibration isolator has the ability to retain heat in the cabin, and the sound absorber dissipates sounds. This action will improve music playback and significantly reduce driving noise.

This completes the soundproofing of the doors and installs them in their original state.

You can also watch a video on this topic:

Wheel arches are the main and strongest source of sound while driving. While driving, stones, sand, and crushed stones fly off from under the wheels and hit the wheel arches, causing a rumble. With a high-quality approach to work, noise can be reduced by 30% - 50%.

The noise level depends on the body type. In sedans, the arches are at the same height as the hood, and the rear arches are at the same height as the trunk. If the factory for such a car provided noise absorption in the luggage compartment and for the rear wall of the engine compartment, then in this case the extraneous sound from the arches is muffled.

External and internal insulation of wheel arches

The situation with the hatchback is a little more complicated. Regardless of how well the front of the car is processed, the rear arches are installed at the level of the cabin. This is why the noise inside the cabin becomes higher. There are two ways to solve the situation - turn to professionals or install sound insulation yourself.

Required tools:

• Roulette;
• Construction knife;
• Scissors;
• Textile;
• Construction hair dryer;
• Roller.

Before purchasing raw materials, you should decide on the area where the sound absorber will be installed. The level of insulation depends on the thickness of the material. If you use too thick sound insulation, it may be difficult to mount attachments; the distance between the wheel and the arch will decrease, which will lead to friction and, accordingly, additional noise. To do everything correctly, choose a material with a thickness of 3 mm to 5 mm.

Sound insulation of wheel arches from the inside

First, we remove all parts of the car that may interfere with work. For example, the internal sound insulation of the front arches allows for work from the engine compartment. There is no need to remove the engine or other complex parts, but it is worthwhile to “clear the way” a little.

Wheel arches can be soundproofed from the inside

We clean the arch from dirt, wash it and dry it with a hairdryer. Afterwards, we cut out the required area (it is advisable to achieve 100% coverage) from vibration-proofing material. We apply self-adhesive insulation to the arches. When using materials based on bitumen, after gluing it is necessary to warm it up with a hairdryer.

There is no need to rush, sticking vibration insulation to all places. It is worth starting from one corner, gradually smoothing the material with a roller. At the end of the work, you need to smooth everything out again.

During the process, it is important to ensure that there is no free space left under the sheets. Subsequently, due to incomplete coverage, rust may occur.

Applying self-adhesive vibration insulation to the wheel arches from the inside

After installing the vibration insulation, add a second layer of noise insulation (for example, Accent). The process is similar to that described above.

Applying sound insulation to the wheel arches from the inside

Sound insulation of wheel arches from outside

Before starting, remove the wheel and fender liners and clean the surface from dirt. If metal corrosion is detected, we clean it. We glue vibration insulation, which contains bitumen, onto the clean surface of the arch. After this, sound insulation can be applied on top of the first layer. For better results, we apply mastic material on a rubber-bitumen base to the joint areas, and at the end we treat the entire area with mastic (or anti-gravel).

After the entire operation, we return the wheel to its place and cover it.

The arch's noise protection is complete.

Floor insulation will bring good results in reducing noise, because most of the sounds are transmitted into the car interior through it.

The following tools are required for work:

• Metal scissors;
• Construction roller;
• Clean cloth;
• Screwdrivers;
• Degreaser.

Before work, we remove all seats, rugs and upholstery - the interior should remain completely empty. It is important to look at the factory felt sound insulation. It should not smell unpleasant, peel off or crumble, but it must be completely dry. Otherwise it should be removed. Next, we vacuum the entire floor, degrease it and cover it with anticorrosive.

The first is vibration isolation. Gluing from the motor partition, we lay the material across the entire floor in whole sheets. We finish at the lift under the rear seats. Heat the surface with a hairdryer and roll it with a roller. We glue the vibration insulation under the rear seats in the same way.

Pasting the car floor with vibration insulation

Wiring and technical holes must not be covered with tape.

Attention!

Overlapping gluing risks introducing air between the material and the floor, which can result in corrosion.

You need to try to cover as best as possible the areas of the front arches under the factory sound insulation and at the same time not touch the gas tank flaps. Afterwards we roll everything thoroughly with a roller.

We glue the sound insulation with the second layer. We tape it from the engine bulkhead to the raised rear seats. Using a roller, squeeze out the air from under the material. Then, in the same way, we treat the area under the rear seats and the gas tank flaps and again iron everything with a roller.

Pasting the car floor with sound insulation

After all the work, we return all interior parts to their place. The soundproofing of the car floor is complete.

A significant amount of external noise enters the car interior through the doors. It was after soundproofing car doors There is a noticeable reduction in external noise. In addition, you can always make the doors completely “noisy” with your own hands. There are no supernatural complications here.

Before soundproofing - disassembling the door

The first stage is complete disassembly of the door, namely, removal of the outer trim. This stage is the most difficult, but not the most difficult. It is necessary to remember (or better yet, write down) which screw was in which hole, in order to make it easier for you to reassemble the door. The mechanism for opening and closing the door, as well as the window lifter device, can not be removed, because putting them back is extremely difficult. These units will not interfere with self-soundproofing doors.

The second step is to clean the metal of the door from the factory sound insulation and the door wall closest to the outside from the factory anti-corrosion treatment. It is important that the surface is clean and free of grease - White Spirit will help with this. The main thing is not to scratch the paint to avoid corrosion.

Let's start soundproofing the door

Next, the inside of the door (the side towards the road) should be covered with vibration-damping material. Vibroplast Gold is best suited, and you should try to seal the maximum area that the technical holes in the door will allow. It’s not very convenient to crawl into it, so to avoid scratching your hands on the sharp edges of the technical holes, it’s better to work with cotton gloves. The door reinforcement does not need to be covered. Currently, Aero and AeroPlus from STP are increasingly used for vibration isolation of door metal. They are lighter than Vibroplast Gold, which will have a positive effect on the service life of door hinges. A high KMP will make the door “wooden” when knocked, the doors will close like a car of a higher class with a pleasant sound “click” instead of “blink”. In addition, the new Aero line has an expanded temperature range, which is especially important for the cold season.

It is recommended to stick a circle of Bitoplast opposite the speaker so that the speaker plays better and is not affected by sound waves reflected from the door. There is no need to cover the entire surface with Bitoplast, because... This material absorbs moisture, and allowing dampness inside the door is the first step towards corrosion. The second layer on top of the vibration insulation was previously covered with Spleen for silence, since a regular Accent could not cope with the moisture that appears in the door during rain. In addition, on some cars, Spleen 8 mm did not withstand operating conditions and simply peeled off due to non-waterproof glue. A new generation of material is now available - Accent Premium, which is not at all afraid of water: the outside of the material is covered with a black film, and on the back side a moisture-resistant green adhesive layer is used. Therefore, the inside of the door can be safely covered with premium Accent.

For music lovers, the use of any material (except vibration insulation) inside the door is undesirable, as unpleasant echoes will begin to appear and the quality of the music will deteriorate.

If the sound quality of the acoustics is not important, then the entire inner surface of the door should be sealed with Accent Premium or Splen on a mastic basis. It should be glued in as large pieces as possible, ideally in one piece. It will become quieter.

Vibration isolation of all door openings

Let's move on to inside the doors are closest to the salon. There are two possible options here.

If the car is being prepared for the installation of powerful acoustics, and juicy play is expected from the midbass installed in the doors, then it is necessary to close the technological holes in the door with dense and hard material. Depending on the size of the holes, sheet aluminum or dense fiberglass can be used for this, which is then covered with a powerful vibration damper, for example, Bimast Bomb Premium or Vizomat. This is important for improving the sound quality of the music - the door should look like a rigid closed box. At the same time, it is important to check the functionality of the door opening mechanism and window lifter so that nothing interferes. The use of Bimast when sealing technological windows can significantly increase the weight of the door; you have to choose: either hinges or music.

If the sound quality of the acoustics is not important, then the technological windows are closed with waterproofing: it is important that moisture does not enter the cabin. STP Aero is suitable for this: lightweight and tear-resistant. There is no need to glue vibration isolation too much, because... the weight of the door increases and the hinges may not withstand the heavy load.

There is also a compromise option applicable for soundproofing the doors of civilian cars: we cover the technological holes with STP VIEC foil, and then roll out Aero Plus over it. Thus, we obtain sufficient rigidity for medium-power acoustics, excellent waterproofing and a small increase in weight.

Then you should cover this surface of the door with Accent or Accent Premium material, or, in extreme cases, Bitoplast 10 mm, making the necessary slots for all mechanisms. An area close to 100% should be covered, leaving space for the wires (if a power window is installed) and the speaker.

Sound insulation of door trim

Now that we're done with the door, let's move on to its trim. It is recommended to glue several pieces of vibration damper to the surface of the skin (STP Aero or Vibroplast Silver is sufficient) to reduce vibrations of the skin. Particular attention should be paid to joints in plastic. Then the entire surface of the skin is covered with Biplast 10K material with a margin of several centimeters at the edges. After trimming the bitoplast along the contour of the casing, it will act as an anti-creak - all knocks of the casing on the door itself will disappear. Another option is also possible: in the places where the door trim adjoins the metal of the door, Madeleine strips are glued to the trim around its perimeter, and the inside of the trim is filled with Biplast.

On this Do-it-yourself soundproofing of car doors finished, you can start installing the casing back. On different cars the door is disassembled in different ways, but the principle is the same everywhere. When soundproofing doors, it is better to completely abandon Splen, because... Inside the door it has only disadvantages (the sound quality of the acoustics deteriorates, it can fall off due to moisture), but on the outside (between the layers of Bitoplast) it can interfere with reassembly.

As a result, the “noise” of the doors in the car will become noticeably quieter, and the doors will close more easily due to the increase in weight.

Soundproofing an apartment is the most important issue that every inhabitant of an apartment building probably thinks about. And if the sound insulation of walls and ceilings does not raise any questions, since many articles have already been written about it, then today we will talk about how to make sound insulation of doors with your own hands, and below we will provide a video of this process.

- a very important question that worries many homeowners. It is especially relevant for residents of Soviet-style high-rise buildings, because during the construction of these houses practically no attention was paid to protecting apartments from extraneous noise. As a result, tiny landings, thin walls and plywood doors left absolutely no chance for a quiet life. There are several ways to change the situation and ensure a comfortable existence for yourself. The first is to replace the door with a metal-plastic one, consisting of several layers, one of which is a high-quality sound insulator of varying degrees of conductivity.

The following materials can be used inside modern entrance doors:

• Foamed polyurethane. This is a good sound insulator, it does not allow extraneous noise into the room and is characterized by high resistance to fire. The material fits closely to the door leaf from the inside and does not allow sounds to pass through.
• Polystyrene foam is characterized by a low specific gravity, provides good protection from noise, but in the event of a fire it causes severe smoke.

Advice! Experts advise, if possible, to refrain from purchasing entrance doors with internal sound insulation made of foam plastic, since this material is characterized by low level fire safety.

• Mineral wool. It has quite good fire resistance, but during operation it absorbs moisture and sags under its weight.
• Corrugated cardboard. This is the cheapest option, however, its soundproofing characteristics leave much to be desired.

Modern models of entrance doors made of metal-plastic are additionally equipped with special thresholds and sealing contours, thanks to which the leaf fits closely to the door frame without the formation of any gaps. Expensive models are sheathed on the inside with a layer of artificial leather, which is also a good sound insulator.

Types of sound insulation for entrance doors and methods of its implementation

If it is impossible to replace the doors with better ones, you can soundproof the old door leaf and door frame yourself. It is performed in several ways.

Arrangement of the vestibule

It's no secret that metal is a poor sound insulator, while the characteristics of wood in this regard are much higher. Therefore, our compatriots often install a double door. The first of them is external; in most cases it is made of reliable and durable metal and protects against the penetration of uninvited guests. The second - internal - is made of wood and is an excellent barrier to all kinds of noise and odors. An air gap is formed between the doors, which acts as insulation.

Each of you has probably seen more than once that a layer of sealant is glued along the entire perimeter of the door frame in new doors. If there are several such layers-contours, they can provide truly high-quality noise insulation.

There are several types of soundproofing circuits on the modern market:

• silicone - mounted in slots on the door frame or leaf using a plastic rib.
• Foam rubber contour. It has an adhesive base, which makes it easy to independently soundproof the front door.
• The magnetic circuit ensures a tight fit of the doors and, as a result, good sound insulation.

Advice! Using a soundproofing circuit is one of the most affordable and effective ways to soundproof an entrance door, which you can do yourself.

Do-it-yourself noise insulation using upholstery

Not so long ago, a very effective method of soundproofing an entrance door by finishing its exterior with a thick layer of batting was especially popular in the vast expanses of our Motherland. Some craftsmen even managed to upholster the door leaf with an old blanket and cover it with leatherette on top. Even now, when asked which sound insulation is better, they confidently declare: the one made with their own hands and with the help of a thick cotton blanket!

Today, isolon and synthetic winterizer are used as sound insulators for door upholstery. They are laid in several layers, and covered with leatherette or artificial leather on top to give the canvas a beautiful appearance.

How alternative options To soundproof entrance doors, you can consider installing decorative panels on the canvas, installing rubber thresholds, sealing the gaps that form between the door frame and the walls with concrete mortar.

Interior doors are much thinner in texture than entrance doors, which is not surprising, since they are designed to divide the space inside an apartment or house. However, this does not mean that the issue of sound insulation of such structures is not relevant. If you take a large family, one part of which dreams of napping and the other part dreams of watching football match With all the ensuing circumstances, it becomes clear that one cannot do without good soundproofing of interior doors. But before we talk about its types and methods of implementation, let’s consider the materials from which door panels are made today. So, the following materials are used for doors installed inside the apartment:

• natural wood;
• Fiberboard (the most budget option);
• metal;
• plastic;
• mirror and glass plates.

The most popular doors are made of fibreboard (fibreboard). Their canvas can be solid or hollow, with or without filler, with inserts made of glass and other materials. The lowest degree of sound insulation is characterized by doors with glass inserts and hollow door leaves, which are generally a kind of resonators.

Speaking about which material is better for soundproofing interior doors, we should note a solid solid wood. But through plastic and glass doors, sounds and noises easily penetrate from one room to another.

Today you can find high-quality soundproofing doors on sale that are made using the sandwich principle. If you install them in special boxes with automatic rubber thresholds, the sound absorption level can reach 26 dB. True, such a decision is not always justified, because appearance This kind of construction is not particularly aesthetically attractive.

Self-soundproofing interior doors

Professionals assure: if the door between separate rooms within the same apartment is installed correctly, the noise level can be reduced by at least 12 dB. If you also use best materials for sound insulation, you can further reduce the noise level.

Advice! Installation of interior doors in accordance with technical standards reduces noise level by 12 dB.

Stages of soundproofing interior doors

• Seal all gaps between the wall and the door frame (for this you need to use sealant).
• Covering the door leaf on the side from which extraneous noise enters the room. In this case, the role of filler can be played by synthetic winterizer, foam rubber, mineral wool, or batting. Dermantin, artificial leather and other materials are used as lining. Door leaves are often sheathed with special sound-absorbing boards, which are glued with mastic and covered with decorative material.
• Gluing a seal around the perimeter of the door leaf; for this you can take a regular profile hollow rubber cord.

Advice! The gap formed between the door leaf and the frame should not be more than 1 cm.

• Installation of a threshold that will prevent noise from penetrating through the gap under the door. Today in stores you can find thresholds made of a wide variety of materials with a sound-absorbing effect.

Tips for self-soundproofing doors in an apartment or house

If you want to install beautiful interior doors in your apartment with glass inserts, which, by the way, are not particularly sound insulating, it is better to give preference to models with special sound-proof double-glazed windows.