How and with what to decarbonize piston rings on a car engine. Do-it-yourself decarbonization of piston rings: the best secrets and means Decarbonization of a VAZ 2110 engine 8 valves

Engine decarbonization— removing carbon deposits from the piston rings and piston grooves so that the rings gain “mobility” and the engine stops “eating” oil. It also involves cleaning the valves and walls of the engine combustion chamber from carbon deposits to eliminate detonation and misfires. Decarbonization can be done through oil, fuel and spark plug holes using various preparations. All these methods differ in the effectiveness of cleaning from soot and labor intensity.
This article describes different ways to effectively combat engine carbon deposits, the pros and cons of these engine decarbonization options, as well as the causes and areas of carbon formation.

In our experience, in 95% of cases, decarbonization helps to avoid “overhaul”, but sometimes it, on the contrary, leads to engine repair (“oil consumption” increases sharply). This may be due to excessive wear of the CPG parts (nothing can be changed here), or the decarbonization itself was carried out incorrectly (everything is in your hands here). Therefore, be careful when choosing a means and method for decarbonizing the engine!!!

When coked, the rings can be in different states: recessed into the piston grooves (cemented in carbon deposits) or squeezed out of the piston grooves by carbon deposits trapped between the piston and the ring. The first version of coking is the simplest and decoking, removing carbon deposits, allows the rings to gain mobility and they begin to remove oil from the walls of the liner. In the second case, carbon deposits squeezing the rings out of the piston grooves increases their friction against the walls of the liner and the rings quickly wear off and decarbonization, clearing the piston grooves of carbon deposits, recesses the rings into the depths of the grooves and increases the gap between the ring and the liner wall, as a result of which the “oil burner” can grow.

All methods for decoking engine piston rings can be divided into 3 types: “soft” decarbonization, “hard” and in motion.

“Soft” engine decarbonization

Soft decoking of piston rings - cleaning the piston group from carbon deposits through the engine oil system. A cleaning agent (usually “flushing the oil system with the effect of decoking the rings”) is poured into the engine oil 100-200 km before changing it, and until the oil change itself, the engine must be operated in a gentle mode, avoiding operation at maximum speed. The composition of the “soft” decarbonizer should wash away carbon deposits from the lower oil scraper rings (which are most often subject to “stacking” or coking) and piston grooves. Typically, flushing oil is used for this, as well as 5 or 7 minutes.

The main disadvantage of conventional “soft” decarbonizers: with their help it is not possible to clear carbon deposits from either the combustion chamber or the engine valves. Basically, these are traditional engine oil system flushing fluids, with the addition of cleaning components to remove carbon deposits. This method can be used not in clinical cases of engine contamination, but as a preventative measure at every oil change.

Recently, engine decarbonization with dimexide has been gaining popularity. Mainly due to the low cost of the drug (at the pharmacy it costs 50-70 rubles per bottle) and the quality of dissolving carbon deposits in the engine oil system. Dimexide is poured into the oil neck at the rate of 100 ml per 1 liter of engine oil. This method of decarbonization has two disadvantages: it is necessary to clean the pan of paint so that the oil intake screen does not clog (since the paint flakes off and can clog the oil intake screen, cutting off the oil supply to the pump) and it is necessary to rinse the oil system thoroughly (usually 2 times with flushing oil) after draining the dimeside with the old oil. Total costs increase to 1000 rubles, and a lot of time will have to be allocated for such decarbonization.

“Soft” cleaning of the engine from carbon deposits also includes our oil additive ACTIVE PROTECTION EDIAL. Its addition to engine oil allows thoroughly clean the piston rings and grooves from carbon deposits and varnishes (no worse than DIMEXIDE), Usually changes from the use of the additive become noticeable after 10-15 minutes at idle and driving up to 50 km. Its main difference from other “soft” competitors: NO NEED TO CHANGE OIL after use (the engine oil is changed as planned). Our additive is poured into both “fresh” and “old” oil and is used until the end of the oil’s service life. It is advisable for the car to drive at least 300 km on this oil for the additive to work in full force. Its additional advantage is the subsequent protection of friction pairs from wear and increased oil resistance to waste.

“Hard” engine decarbonization

Hard decarbonization of rings or old "grandfather's method" more common. The essence of this method is quite simple: an aggressive liquid is poured into the combustion chamber through the nozzle or spark plug holes, which corrodes and softens the carbon deposits on the rings and the piston bottom.

METHOD OF APPLICATION: The car is placed horizontally, the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, after which the ignition is turned off and the spark plugs are unscrewed or the injectors are removed. By turning the crankshaft, use a wire or a screwdriver to set the pistons to a position close to the middle. Anti-coke (LAUREL, MITSUBISHI SHUMA, GREENOL, DIMEXIDE, XADO or FENOM) is poured into each cylinder and left there for a certain time - from 20 minutes to 12 hours to soften the carbon (depending on the manufacturer of such preparations). It is necessary to warm up the engine to intensify the procedure; a “steam bath” effect is created, so the carbon deposits are better “acidified” and softened.

During such decoking, the spark plug wells are closed, lightly filling the spark plugs so that the engine does not cool down quickly, and the ignition is turned off. After a certain time has passed, the live spark plugs are unscrewed, and by cranking the crankshaft with the starter, all cleaning liquid is removed from the combustion chamber, often using a syringe with a straw for this. This is the one that did not leak through the piston rings into the crankcase. Cover the spark plug holes with a rag to prevent dirt from flying out of the holes and getting all over the engine compartment. Then tighten the spark plugs, start the engine and let it run at variable speeds or drive for about 50 km. Next, the most important thing: it is required NECESSARILY change oil and spark plugs.

This technique is now quite actively used both at service stations and by car owners on their own.

Disadvantages of “hard” decarbonization

The effectiveness of this method depends on the quality of the anticoke used (in Soviet times, acetone or a mixture of kerosene and acetone in equal proportions was usually used), as well as on the type of engine being serviced. Often it is possible to remove only carbon deposits on which the liquid of the cleaning solvent has fallen (i.e., the top of the piston and rings), and the walls of the combustion chamber and valve are almost not cleaned. Recently, MITSUBISHI SHUMA has been gaining popularity, because... it does not fall down when injected into the combustion chamber, but foaming fills its entire volume and cleans the entire combustion chamber, including its upper part and valves.

This chemical is quite toxic and if you use it in a garage you can be poisoned by toxic fumes. In winter, the quality of soot dissolution is greatly affected by the rapid cooling of the engine, and even in the cold, unscrewing spark plugs or removing injectors is not a pleasant task.

It is not clear how much solvent should be poured into each cylinder to achieve the best result, because... the engines are different, have different combustion chamber volumes and piston diameters, but the instructions for use are the same for all engines (a 2.5 liter engine and a 1.3 liter engine have the same number of pistons). If you pour too much, there is a possibility that a large amount of the drug will seep into the oil and destroy the rubber seals; if you pour too little, you may not really clean anything.

The decarbonizing agent GREENOL has a particularly destructive effect. Within an hour after being poured into the combustion chamber, it seeps through the rings into the crankcase and begins to peel off the paint from the pan. Therefore, this decarbonization is best used to clean parts from carbon deposits of an already disassembled engine, dipping the parts into a bath with GREENOL, there is no competition here. By the way, the developers of this decarbonization themselves show videos specifically about cleaning the pistons and removing them from the engine.

Often, after being poured into the combustion chamber, the decoking agent quickly seeps into the engine crankcase (through the ring locks) and does not perform its functions of cleaning the piston grooves and drainage holes, not to mention the walls of the combustion chamber.

It is quite difficult to set the pistons to the middle position on your own; at least one assistant will be required for this operation. If the car has an automatic transmission (you can’t push it back and forth), then to carry out decarbonization you will need a lift or jack to raise the drive wheels.

Decarbonization of a boxer engine

The design of the engine also greatly influences the cleaning of carbon deposits. Let’s say you need to decoke a SUBARU car with a boxer engine: when you lift the hood, it’s not clear where the spark plugs are located, but you still need to get to them, unscrew them and try to pour decoke into the combustion chamber. Boxer engines are horizontal and the cleaner will flow out of the combustion chamber while you screw the spark plugs into place. Setting the pistons to the middle position on a boxer engine is completely problematic, plus decarbonization will only clean the lower half of the combustion chamber, and accordingly the lower segment of the rings. Although the effect of a “steam bath” is created, it is still better when the soot is completely filled with the reagent than when it decomposes under steam.

Decarbonization of a V-engine

The same can be said about multi-cylinder V-shaped engines, where access to spark plugs or injectors is also made difficult by attached units. Plus the pistons are tilted, decarbonization will have an uneven effect on the carbon deposits, which means more drug will be needed to dissolve the carbon deposits. Cleaning the rings of diesel engines using this method is generally problematic. First you need to get to the injectors (the same mounted units), then remove them, and this often requires special pullers or injector wrenches. After removing the injectors, you should change the copper sealing washers (they are no longer suitable for reuse), which must first be purchased, which means a trip to a specialized store, where they are not always in stock.

Another problem: the formation of scuffs on the liner. When “hard” cleaning of the engine from carbon deposits occurs, the oil is washed out from the cylinder wall with a cleaning agent and the first engine start is carried out “dry”, i.e. the rings rub against the liner without oil, which leads to additional scuffing on the liner and sudden wear of the piston rings.

You will definitely need to change the engine oil, because... part of the drug penetrates the crankcase through the rings and mixes with the oil, which changes its properties and will negatively affect rubber seals and oil seals. The spark plugs usually also need to be replaced.

Decarbonization of rings while moving through fuel

Decarbonization of the engine through fuel - burning off carbon deposits while driving. This the simplest, but no less effective way to combat soot. The essence of the method is the use of special additives in the fuel to combat carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. Ours is still here DECAKER EDIALhas no analogues on the auto chemical market. Cleaning the engine using our additive is the simplest, least labor-intensive and budget-friendly way. To implement it, you DO NOT require special skills, tools or a lot of time to remove and install spark plugs or injectors. The administration of the drug will take you no more than a minute.

Decarbonizing EDIAL is poured into the car tank and, together with the fuel, enters the combustion chamber. When the engine is running, additive particles (entering the combustion chamber with fuel) penetrate into the thickness of soot and varnish deposits and completely burn them out, and the residues are removed through the exhaust system. A significant difference between our engine cleaning method and others is also that carbon burns out faster at increased loads and speeds. Those. The vehicle is operated without restrictions on load, in the usual driving manner, and driving on the highway significantly helps to remove carbon deposits.

Decarbonization of oil scraper rings

The most problematic area in piston rings is the oil rings. The only effective way to clean them is to increase the exposure time to carbon deposits. It is most effective to use 2 additives simultaneously: ACTIVE PROTECTION into the engine oil and DECOKING EDIAL into car fuel. Our products will gently clean the piston grooves of carbon deposits, freeing the rings. If the rings do not “come to life” immediately, then over the course of a run of up to 300 km, the oil consumption will drop sharply or stop completely.

If the oil consumption for waste was about 1 liter per 1000 km, then 100% achievement of the result may not be possible, because (statistically) oil scraper rings can simply be worn out. Also, turbocharged VAG engines are more difficult to decarbonize (the drainage holes for draining oil from the piston groove into the crankcase are poorly cleaned. Especially turbocharged Volkswagens (1.8 liters) suffer from this. Here we can advise using the complex several times or after using our complex in oil and fuel “ hard" decoking (NOISE) and change the engine oil. This should help.

Valve decarbonization

If the car is operated mainly in urban conditions (low speeds and frequent idling), then the valves quickly become overgrown with carbon deposits. Our decoking into EDIAL fuel effectively cleans carbon deposits on the intake valves, ensuring tightness in the valve-seat pair. This eliminates misfires and improves engine dynamics and efficiency.

BEST RING DECOKING

If you decide to do the decarbonization yourself and don’t want to unscrew the spark plugs or remove the injectors, then here are our recommendations. When the engine oil consumption is more than 0.5 liters per 1000 km, it is very effective to use it in combination (at the same time). DECOKING EDIAL(pouring it into the car tank) and ACTIVE ENGINE PROTECTION EDIAL(pouring it into the engine oil). This is the best way to remove carbon deposits from the engine rings and clean the combustion chamber and valves. On a V-shaped engine, it is effective to pour 2 bottles of ACTIVE PROTECTION into the engine oil system.

Poured into oil for 15-20 minutes of engine operation, it will clean and “revive” the engine rings, and a decarbonizer poured into the tank of the car will carefully burn out all the carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. We especially recommend this comprehensive approach to motorists who only travel around the city.

At the same time, our method of cleaning the engine EDIAL has a number of significant advantages over other competitors on the market:

Quick application of the drug (fill the car tank with engine oil and you’re done!!!).

After cleaning the engine from carbon deposits, there is no need to change the engine oil, since the products of decomposition and combustion of carbon deposits and varnish deposits are removed through the vehicle’s exhaust system, and therefore do not leak into the crankcase and do not affect the seals. Our auto chemicals can be used at any time convenient for the car owner.

Engine piston rings are well cleaned.

It perfectly cleans carbon deposits from combustion chamber parts, including intake and exhaust valves, their seats and spark plugs, increasing their service life.

Thanks to effective compression restoration, it reduces fuel and oil consumption due to waste, increases engine power and throttle response.

Protective films are created on the surfaces of combustion chamber parts and friction pairs in the engine to prevent the appearance of carbon deposits. These films reduce subsequent ring coking by reducing contact temperatures in the combustion chamber and, consequently, reducing the destruction of oil molecules.

• EDIAL additives (complex use in oil and fuel) combine the ability to gently act on coked piston rings as a “soft” method of decoking and complete cleansing of combustion chamber parts from carbon deposits, which is not always achievable with the “hard” method of engine decoking.

AND THE MOST IMPORTANT THING:

Any decarbonization is good as prevention!!!
It's like human oral hygiene. You brush your teeth constantly, removing “dental plaque.” Likewise, decarbonization should be used on the engine periodically as a preventive measure. As soon as the “oil guzzler” appears, decarbonize it so that the rings (especially oil scraper rings) do not wear out. Do not bring the coking of the engine to a critical state, when only replacing the rings can “reanimate” the engine. This is why our additives have been developed, which are very simple and effective to use.

Causes of carbon deposits in the engine

Running the engine on low-quality fuel or oil leads to increased formation of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. The bottom and walls of the piston, as well as the walls of the combustion chamber, become overgrown with soot and carbon deposits from unburned fuel. The valves become overgrown with carbon deposits, and in some cases they simply burn out. The piston rings coke and lose mobility, the walls of the combustion chamber become overgrown with carbon deposits, impairing heat dissipation. The formation of soot is also facilitated by the presence of additives in the fuel, decomposition and oxidation of the oil entering the combustion chamber. Frequent driving on a cold engine with a light load, driving at low speeds, standing in traffic jams, winter driving - all this contributes to the intense formation of carbon deposits on the surfaces of combustion chamber parts.

A large amount of carbon deposits (reducing the volume of the combustion chamber) leads to detonation. Detonation reduces engine power, increases friction losses and wear of engine parts. In addition, the flow areas of the intake and exhaust valves are reduced (deterioration of mixture formation and increase in fuel consumption). Carbon deposits trapped under the valve cause it to not fit tightly into the seat, causing the valve to burn out over time. Loose closing of the valves also leads to a significant drop in compression, resulting in a loss of engine power.

Lately, be very careful when purchasing engine oil. Often, modern EURO5 and 4 engines are filled with oils designed for engines of the EURO3 toxicity class. Inadequacy of the oils used leads to oil burnout in the combustion chamber and coking of the rings, because motor oils for EURO5 engines can withstand temperatures up to +110-115 degrees, and motor oils of EURO3 class only 90 degrees. Therefore, if you pour such oil into a modern engine, it will burn out.

Carbon formation zones

A thick layer of carbon deposits on the valves significantly impairs engine performance. Deposits on the back of the intake valve plate are especially dangerous: they act like a sponge and absorb fuel. The engine is forced to run on a lean mixture. The result is possible detonation combustion of the fuel mixture and engine damage.

Medium-temperature deposits - varnishes - form in the grooves of the piston rings, on the side surface of the piston and on the cylinder walls. Carbon deposits and varnish on the top edge of the piston accelerate cylinder wear. The varnish in the piston grooves and the crumbled carbon deposits that get there make the piston rings immobile, reducing compression; oil consumption begins to increase "for waste". When deposits completely fill the gap between the piston groove and the ring, the ring bursts, squeezing it out. The pressure on the cylinder walls increases sharply, wear of the liner and rings accelerates, and scuffing of the liner walls may even occur. Through the “stagnant” rings, the breakthrough of gases into the crankcase, and oil into the combustion chamber, increases. This further increases the formation of varnish and carbon deposits.

All this leads to a drop in compression in the cylinders, a decrease in engine power, poor starting, excessive consumption of fuel and oil, and an increase in exhaust gas toxicity. If there is heavy carbon deposits, the engine may “auto-start” after stopping. Because The volume of the combustion chamber decreases noticeably and the carbon particles, continuing to smolder, ignite the fuel and the engine continues to operate.

Reasons for oil getting into the combustion chamber

Oil enters the combustion chamber in two ways:
1. From the walls of the liner, because the oil scraper rings cannot remove it perfectly clean.
2. Oil is washed away from the intake valve stems by the flow of the fuel mixture sucked into the cylinders.
These are only the main ways oil gets into the cylinders on “healthy” and new engines. And when the car’s mileage exceeds 100,000 km and you notice that adding oil to the required level has become more frequent, and smoke with a specific odor begins to appear from the muffler, it means that other elements have become involved in adding oil to the combustion chambers.

An experienced engine mechanic will determine exactly what is causing the smoke and oil consumption based on the condition of the spark plugs. There are two main culprits:
I — oil reflective caps valves Only replacing them will help here, there are no other options. ( Signs of oil leakage in reflective caps:
1. Smoke from the exhaust pipe during gas transfer.
2. The presence of oil on the threaded part of the spark plugs (“wet” thread on the spark plugs).

II - cylinder-piston group(rings, pistons, cylinders). There are already possible solutions to the problem. And if you are offered to overhaul the engine and replace the rings, there is no need to rush. In most cases, decarbonizing the engine helps and the service life increases by 50-100 thousand km, or even more.

All of our additives for decarbonization can be purchased from our partners (their contacts are listed on the WHERE TO BUY page. If our partner is not in your place of residence, we can send our auto chemicals from Moscow by mail (prepayment only) or SDEK (payment upon receipt at the point of issue ) Our partners send cash on delivery by mail, their contacts are listed on our website.

Problems associated with the appearance of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber of a car are the result of diagnostics and repairs not carried out in a timely manner, and decarbonization not carried out.

For example, the driver was not alerted by blue smoke from the exhaust pipe. The piston rings, worn down to holes, began to leak oil, which, when burned, covered everything with soot. What to do? Let's figure it out.

What is decarbonization?

Decoking is the cleaning of the engine combustion chamber from carbon deposits and coke. This is done using special chemicals or various solvents.

It is better to periodically decarbonize the engine as a preventive measure, because emergency removal of carbon deposits already falls into the category of global engine repair.

The fact is that it is necessary to eliminate not only coke, but also the cause of its occurrence. The most common of them is described above. However, the engine gets dirty even in the absence of problems - the fuel also burns with all the consequences.

Engine cleaning methods

If there is no serious problem, then you can do preventive decarbonization yourself. To do this, you need to add the selected liquid to the engine oil shortly before it is completely replaced (in order to drain the deposits along with the oil). You can add various additives to the fuel, it all depends on the specific purpose.

In general, all decarbonization methods are divided into 2 types:

• Soft method. The liquid is added directly to the oil. To do this, use products designed for gentle cleaning. Rude ones, in this case, can do more harm than good. The method is good for prevention, but completely unsuitable for removing serious contaminants. At best, it will help clean the lower piston rings, which become dirty first. The most popular products include the Gzox and Kangaroo brands. They will cost around 500 rubles.
• Hard method. Aggressive cleaning agents are poured inside through the spark plug holes or injectors directly into the combustion chamber. This method is suitable for removing serious deposits of carbon deposits. It cleans the piston well, as well as the chamber itself. The engine must be warmed up before using this method. After filling the liquid, it is recommended to lightly string the spark plugs to slow down the cooling of the engine. For the best result, you need to keep the liquid inside for from half an hour to half a day. It all depends on the manufacturer's recommendations. And finally, the outcome of “hard” treatment VERY depends on the quality of the chemistry used. After all, it’s not for nothing that this method is called hard.

Carbon removers

There is a fairly large selection of specialized products on the market. They are reliable and are exactly the means for decoking. For comparison, the same Dimexide (a very popular remedy) is a medicine that simply, in combination, can help with this problem.

But all special equipment has one big disadvantage - the high price.

Therefore, many car enthusiasts choose products “from what they had.” The above-mentioned Dimexide and descaling agents, etc. are also used. They are cheap and almost always at hand, but this kind of additive is a frankly old-fashioned method, more suitable for cars of the same type.

Let's take a closer look at the most popular means and features of their use:

1. Mitsubishi Shumma. It is rightfully considered one of the best means for removing serious stains. This is what sports car manufacturers recommend. It is classified as aggressive, so it must be used strictly according to the instructions. But even Schumma cannot be a 100% panacea - there are situations when it can cause harm. For example, if the amount of carbon deposits in the chamber exceeds all permissible limits and the rings have already sagged. In this case, with an increase in the volume of the chamber (after removing the muck from there), the dead rings will ensure a decrease in compression and the engine will simply lose power. Therefore, before using any harsh cleaning product, you need to do a complete engine diagnostics.
2. Gzox. According to the manufacturer, the coverage area of ​​this product is the injectors and carburetor. Don't let this fool you - it is quite suitable for gentle cleaning of rings. Taking into account the specifics, Gzox is added to the oil. It’s better not to expect miracles, but it will do for prevention.

Domestic analogues

1. Lavr ML Domestic chemistry, recommended for use only as a last resort. Despite creating an extremely harsh environment inside the engine, it copes poorly with carbon deposits - at best, it liquefies it. When cleaning heavily soiled chambers, it is practically useless. But it cleans the oil scraper rings quite well. After use, an oil change is simply vital. It is better to find a better analogue.
2. Edial. Relatively good hybrid tool for decoking the engine. It is an additive to fuel, which is why it falls into the category of soft agents. Unlike most analogues, it works while driving. It effectively copes with medium-sized stains, but in severe cases (when the rings are already stuck) it is, alas, unable to help. Before adding, you need to make sure the tank is at least half full. This is necessary for a more uniform distribution of the liquid and its subsequent production.
3. Dimexide. Decarbonizing an engine with dimexide is a very risky business. On the one hand, it is able to remove all carbon deposits cleanly, but on the other hand, it corrodes everything it touches. Paint, hands - all this should be protected as much as possible. Only works when hot. To avoid crystallization of the substance, when cooling the engine, it is necessary to immediately pump it out. If you have the courage to flush the combustion chamber with it, then be prepared for a strong stench that will poison you and those around you from the exhaust pipe for a long time. After use, be sure to change the oil and rinse the engine with a special lubricant for flushing.
4. Slab cleaner. Know-how among car enthusiasts, but it has some effectiveness. But only when cleaning individual parts. That is, the motor will have to be disassembled first. It is ineffective as a decoking agent, but it will be possible to clean the pistons. It is dangerous for the skin, so do not forget about gloves and other precautions.

Engine cylinders are parts in which constant combustion of the fuel mixture occurs, forming carbon deposits. Its removal is called decoking. Oil supply is carried out in two ways - using oil seals or piston rings. In the first case, you need to replace the unit, in the second it is possible Do-it-yourself decarbonization of piston rings.

A car service center will encourage you to overhaul the engine, but you can get by using preventive methods. By completing simple tasks to remove carbon deposits yourself, you will increase your car's mileage by 30-40 thousand km and will not lose money on replacing parts.

Causes of soot

The following reasons can be distinguished:

• Short trips in the off-season and in winter.
• Violation of the terms of oil change.
• Overheated motor.
• Poor quality engine oil.
• Idle car in winter.
• Various additives.
• Increased thermal mode of the engine.

The presence of severe carbon deposits can be indicated by increased fuel consumption, black vehicle exhaust, loss of power and low compression. Do-it-yourself engine decarbonization carried out using special means - chemical compositions for engine cylinders ( for example, liquid for decarbonizing piston rings). The most famous are special equipment XADO, Titan, LAUREL, SURM etc.

To clean the engine of slag without disassembling, LAVR for decoking of piston rings poured in doses - 45 ml into the technological connectors of the cylinders.

Before performing work, place the car on a clean horizontal surface. So the cylinders will take a vertical position ( can be corrected manually if you have access). We warm up the engine to the desired temperature, turn it off, remove the injectors, glow plugs and spark plugs.

The technology is only applicable for in-line engines ( not opposed). To avoid ignition of the anti-coking agent. After all the manipulations, we leave the engine for a couple of hours, free the cylinder bores, crank the starter with the gas squeezed out - this will remove excess chemicals in the cylinders. Next, we mount the removed parts and let the engine run idle, but with revving, and change the used oil.

The resulting carbon deposits must be loosened before removal. Otherwise, its residues will interfere with the normal operation of the engine. Coke deposits accumulate in the chambers and in the grooves under the piston rings. The rings become poorly movable and do not adhere tightly to the cylinder walls, which causes ineffective oil removal from the walls. This provokes a subsequent layer of soot, and so on, upward, until it stops.

Do-it-yourself decarbonization of rings using “chemistry” will require the following materials:

• carbon remover (anti-coke);
• syringe with tube ( we will pump out the remaining chemicals from the cylinders);
• compressor;
• oil filter;
• oil to change after all work has been completed.

After such a procedure, the car may emit a black, strong-smelling exhaust. There is no need to be alarmed; after such a procedure, this is a normal phenomenon; residues come out.

Correct decarbonization of piston rings, video:

Removing carbon deposits with water

Some motorists have learned to use a milder procedure that has the same effect in removing carbon deposits as chemicals. Decarbonizing with water- the most common method that owners of domestic and imported cars decide on.

For the procedure you will need:

• distilled water in a plastic bottle;
• dropper;
• hose ( for windshield washer);
• tee ( connect washer).

The scheme of work is as follows: water from a bottle is connected through a dropper to the engine suction. You can use non-distilled water - the filtration system in the dropper itself will handle the cleaning. The water supply starts with the engine running - at about 2000 rpm.

2-3 drops per second is sufficient when idling a warm engine. The effect will not take long to appear, the carbon deposits are removed, and the car becomes dynamic and economical.

Decarbonization with kerosene - instructions

The occurrence of piston rings due to carbon deposits can be “cured” with kerosene. The method is especially good if deposits on rings and channels have created an insurmountable layer of coke. Will need mixture of kerosene and acetone 50:50.

Step-by-step description of removing carbon deposits:

1. Remove all spark plugs.
2. Pour about 100 mg into each hole in the cylinders (To distribute the mixture evenly, it is preferable to install them in one line).
3. Install spark plugs and leave the car overnight (minimum 8 hours).
4. Unscrew the spark plugs and place a rag on the spark plug wells.
5. Start the starter so that the remaining solution comes out through the wells.
6. Tighten the spark plugs, start the engine, 15 km of run is enough to eliminate the residues (It is advisable to choose a non-busy road, cleaning will cause a lot of smoke).
7. Change oil.

Decarbonization of piston rings with kerosene- a simple procedure performed alone. As a result, we get normal oil consumption without excessive consumption, improved vehicle dynamics, clean injectors, and no detonation due to accumulated coke.

Decarbonization of oil scraper rings with kerosene, video:

Cleaning carbon deposits without changing the oil

This method of removing carbonaceous products is considered softer. Piston ring decarboniser without oil change is a special additive to gasoline or diesel fuel. Their action is based on the removal of combustion products using a special chemical composition.

The inner surface of the motor is constantly exposed to a special composition, which eliminates the accumulation of coke.

Some advantages of this method:

• Simplicity and convenience - no need to remove candles and nozzles.
• Introduction in a minute.
• Changing the engine oil is carried out as standard, according to maintenance.
• The surface of the engine is protected by the formed film, which reduces the accumulation of soot.

But it’s difficult to call such drugs a panacea. It is rather a product of local action, which will help in case of mild coking. If the amount of carbon deposits is critical, additives will not be able to remove it, since they do not have a softening effect. These are flushing compounds with cleaning ingredients to remove light carbon deposits on piston rings.

On the other hand, the only option is if the engine knock and black exhaust caught you by surprise on a long journey. The usage standards for passenger cars are 50 ml per 40-60 liters of gasoline (or DT), for freight transport – 100 ml per 200 liters of fuel.

Important! Diesel units are refueled with alcohol-based depressant additives that reduce the viscosity temperature of diesel fuel. In this case, the combustion chamber gets dirty faster, and it is not advisable to remove the candles in the cold. Soft cleaning compounds will prolong engine life by eliminating deposits.

Piston ring cleaning fluid has active particles that provoke the breakdown of carbon deposits and combustion when the fuel mixture ignites. As the fuel tank empties, the combustion chamber is cleaned.

Since the days of the USSR, the quality of gasoline has improved, but the problem remains - any driver is faced with the removal of slag and coke on piston rings. Soviet oil is also far from modern, but not a single car owner will undertake to fully assert that it does not form carbon deposits. Persistent deposits that affect the stable operation of the cylinders will lead to a major overhaul.

Main misconceptions:

The first incorrect conclusion is that modern engines do not need decarbonization. Any engine is operated in harsh conditions, including winter. This is the first and main reason for the formation of carbon deposits. Modern piston systems have provided parts with smaller gaps and grooves, and this is an increase in vulnerability.

Decarbonization of XADO, LAVR and other similar anticokes cannot be called the only method of "treatment" of the engine. Periodic cleaning with oil changes will give good results, but the products are only good for standard engines. Namely, with a volume of no more than 2 liters, a vertical arrangement of the cylinders, and a shallow recess in the piston bottom. Otherwise, it must be filled with the product separately.

High cost is a reckless statement from an inexperienced driver. Anticoke costs much less than a major overhaul. For example, decoking laurel, the instructions for use of which are simple and clear, are made in Russia, which means the price is several times lower than imported analogues. According to research results, it ranks second in the Russian market, the soaking time of soaked pistons is 8-10 hours.

Engine decarbonization fluid works the same for all types of engines. There is no need to look for compounds separately for diesel and gasoline engines. The repair and maintenance operation is performed in a standard manner. Avoid working in winter, outdoors or in the rain.

For convenient introduction of the composition into the holes, some manufacturers add a special syringe to the kit.

Of the remedies that do not require removing candles, decarbonization is the most popular Edial. The advantages are that they work exclusively in the combustion chamber, activation at elevated temperatures, and cleaning in normal mode.

Mixing is simple - just pour the drug into the fuel tank at the gas station before refueling. Priorities - diesel engine decarbonization, including mineral residues ( ash), which are formed at a temperature of 850 degrees.

How to protect the car from soot?

If the problem already exists, the car consumes more oil and gasoline, fumes and smokes, learn how to decarbonize the engine yourself. And may your "iron horse" never fail!

What causes compression to drop and why does it happen unevenly?

If we do not consider cases related to valve leaks, then the main reason for a drop in compression is a malfunction of the piston set due to coking or wear of parts.

Wear and coking of the piston rings, piston and the entire engine occurs unevenly both across different cylinders and along the height of each of them. Therefore, measurements often show that the performance of one or more cylinders differs from the norm and fails in compression.

The speed and intensity of these processes are influenced by different temperature conditions, different lubrication and combustion conditions, as well as specific factors - for example, where crankcase gases are supplied. Naturally, the quality of fuel and oil is of great importance. The worse it is, the faster cokes and deposits form in the cylinders.

Our grandfathers used kerosene, water or solvents to clean piston and cylinders. What is the best liquid for decoking the LAVR ML-202 engine?

Most household solvents do not cope with the problem at all and can even be dangerous. Water even more so. Engine decoking agent LAVR ML-202 is a special product that has several important properties. It is capable of dissolving persistent carbon deposits, easily penetrates through small gaps, and forms an active “steam bath”, due to which the liquid actively saturates the deposits.

The drug also contains surface-active components, one of the functions of which is to protect the cylinders from wear during decoking and starting the engine after it.

Is LAVR ML-202 safe for parts?

The decoking liquid only affects coke deposits and carbon deposits, so it is safe for any structural materials of the car, including aluminum.

Will the problem with increased oil consumption be solved after decoking the engine?

Engine oil consumption can increase for many reasons: due to wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group, coking of piston rings, oil entering the cylinder through crankcase ventilation, oil leakage through valve guides, incorrect selection of oil, etc. If the problem arose precisely because of the coking of the rings, then decoking will help. If oil consumption has increased for other reasons, then decarbonization will be a kind of engine diagnostics.

Will your fluid help if the car service recommends major repairs?

In case of malfunctions in the operation of the car, services often “prescribe” engine overhaul, since it is more profitable and makes it possible to carry out defect detection (actual assessment of the condition of parts). In many cases, decoking the engine with LAVR ML-202 actually allows you to increase compression and avoid major repairs. If the cylinder-piston set is badly worn or the reason for the drop in compression lies in something else (for example, leaky valves), then the engine will have to be repaired. In any case, we advise you not to neglect decoking. Even in car services, the drug is used to more accurately diagnose engine problems.

How to decoke a V-shaped or boxer engine?

Non-standard engines are more difficult to decoke than conventional in-line ones. However, the general principle is the same.

• you will need more fluid than to decarbonize a standard inline four-cylinder engine
• for the best effect, the liquid should cover the piston completely or at least three-quarters. In this case, the engine decoking agent will seep well into the piston grooves and saturate the carbon deposits on the rings
• You can decarbonize the cylinders one by one. Partially use the liquid that remains after decoking the previous cylinder. In this case, you may not need a large amount of LAVR ML202
• To reduce the consumption of the drug, you can manually “press” the filled liquid on the compression stroke by rotating the crankshaft. Then the decoking liquid will completely fill the volume of the combustion chamber. This is how a boxer engine is usually decarbonized.

Is it possible to decarbonize the engine of a snowmobile, motorcycle or moped?

Engine decoking agent LAVR ML-202 is suitable for treating any piston internal combustion engines.

My car has very high mileage. Decoking has never been done. Will it damage my car?

We recommend that you use caution when decoking the engine on older cars with high mileage. The fact is that with significant wear of the piston and rings, deposits act as sealing structural elements, thanks to which the required level of compression is maintained in the cylinders.

If deposits are removed, the clearance between the piston and cylinder will increase and compression may drop. Modern engines are less susceptible to this effect, since their parts are initially better adjusted to each other.

After a long downtime of the car in the garage, the compression dropped. Will decoking help restore it?

Decoking can be done. But we note that an idle engine could not coke. However, in many cases our product restored compression after a long period of inactivity.

Will there be an effect if decarbonization is carried out in cold weather or not on a warm engine?

Decarbonization can also be carried out in cold weather, and also not on a warm engine. But the effectiveness of the procedure will be somewhat less, since there will be no “steam bath” in the cylinders, due to which the vapors of the liquid will qualitatively impregnate the deposits and cokes of the combustion chambers. We advise you to leave the engine with liquid poured into it for decoking for 12 hours or a day.

Is it important to set the pistons to the middle position before introducing the decarbonizer into the cylinders? How to do it?

We recommend setting the pistons to the middle position in order to create approximately the same conditions for decoking of different cylinders. Cylinder wear is uneven along the height, and this affects how fluid will leak into the bottom of the piston.

In addition, raising the piston to the maximum will simply prevent you from pouring the required amount of the drug. However, not every engine allows you to comply with this rule. Therefore, we advise you to treat this as an important clarification, and not a mandatory condition.

Read more about how to set the pistons to the middle position here.

Why do you need to move the pistons during decoking?

It is not necessary to move the pistons while the engine is decoking, but it is advisable if possible. This is especially useful if you carry out express decarbonization in 1 hour. Thanks to this, the liquid will better seep into the lower part of the piston, saturating and softening carbon deposits in the piston grooves and on the rings.

Is it possible to increase the exposure time of LAVR ML-202? Will this damage the engine?

Of course you can! The instructions for the drug indicate that the exposure time can range from 1 hour (express decarbonization) to a day, if this is convenient. If necessary, you can leave the drug infused for 3-5 days.

It happens that the drug is left in the cylinders for several weeks due to various circumstances. No negative effects on engine parts were identified.

Is the oil film washed off from parts during decoking? Could this cause scoring on the piston and cylinder when the engine is cranked?

Engine decoking agent LAVR ML-202 is a special cleaner. Unlike conventional solvents, it contains surfactants. These components cover the parts with a film that protects them when the crankshaft is first cranked. Therefore, the formation of scuffing on the piston is excluded.

Why does some of the decoking liquid remain in the cylinder after decoking?

There may be several reasons for this:

Some of the fluid remains in the recesses of the piston crown and, therefore, cannot leak into the crankcase.

The pistons are at different levels. The piston located lower in the cylinder is sealed better because the cylinder is less worn in its lower part. This prevents liquid from seeping out.

The deposits soaked in the product swelled and formed a mixed gel, which prevented the seepage of liquid.

What should I do if the engine does not start the first time after decoking?

Check whether you have assembled the parts correctly after decoking. This is the most common reason that the engine does not start after decarbonization. If everything is assembled correctly and the problem remains, dry the spark plugs and cylinders by blowing them with compressed air.

After decoking, the car began to smoke heavily when starting the engine. Is this normal?

There is nothing terrible about the fact that after decoking white smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe - it is the remaining deposits and liquid that got into the exhaust system that burn out.

Does the drug damage catalysts and spark plugs?

Our product is absolutely safe for catalysts, spark plugs, rubber parts and other parts if you do everything according to the instructions.

Is it necessary to flush the oil system after decoking and before changing the oil?

It is not necessary to flush the lubrication system with specialized preparations. But we recommend carrying out such cleaning, as this helps to more completely remove softened contaminants after decarbonization. Our oil system flushing products or the product from the engine decoking kit are ideal for these purposes.

Is it possible not to change the oil after decoking?

Changing the oil after decoking is a must! The instructions clearly state that the oil must be changed immediately, and we cannot recommend otherwise. However, sometimes we allow ourselves to drive to the oil change station with caution. At the same time we:

We are sure that the oil level in the crankcase is not too low, and the decoking fluid has not diluted it to its limit.

We treat distances reasonably: 3-5 kilometers in gentle mode is not a problem for the engine.

We are more than sober about the load on the engine when driving: we don’t overestimate the speed, don’t overload the cabin with a crowd of people, and don’t overload the trunk with bags of potatoes and the like.

After decoking, compression was not restored. What does this mean?

There may be several reasons: actual wear of rubbing parts, air leaks through leaky valves, breakage of piston parts - for example, due to detonation.

Is it possible to combine injector flushing and engine decoking? What's better?

It is possible to combine. But if there are no particular problems with the engine, it is enough to flush the injection system at a car service with preparations for flushing injection or diesel systems (LAVR ML-101 and LAVR ML-102). Both rinses have a decoking effect, which will be sufficient for prevention. coking of piston rings.

If you suspect engine coking, use LAVR ML-202.

Can the LAVR ML-202 engine decoking drug be used to flush the injection system?

Sooner or later, carbon deposits form in any engine. First, the rings become coked, then deposits appear on the valve system in the combustion chamber. The addition of special additives, the use of high-quality oil and proper operation significantly reduce the intensity of contamination, but do not eliminate the problem completely. Motorists have to resort to special vehicles.

Coking of rings: reasons

If the engine system is in good working order and the vehicle is used correctly, minimal carbon deposits will form. A certain amount of oil still enters the combustion chamber, causing the build-up of a layer of soot/varnish on the cylinder-piston group. In this case, decarbonization may be necessary once per 100 thousand km or even less often.

But the influence of additional factors can speed up the process. Premature coking is provoked by:

• overheating of the engine, its boiling - if the piston heats up above the coking temperature, carbon deposits form much more intensely;
• low fuel quality;
• low quality motor oil, the presence of questionable additives in it;
• engine oil does not correspond to that recommended by the manufacturer;
• driving with a cold engine;
• constant driving at low speeds;
• constant driving under increased loads;
• violation of the formation and/or combustion of the air-fuel mixture; An excessively enriched fuel mixture is also detrimental to the engine.

First of all, the products of oil combustion settle on the oil scraper rings, as well as on the pistons, inside the combustion chamber, and on the valves. In the latter case, carbon deposits prevent the valve from fitting tightly to the seat, which leads to incorrect engine operation.

The following signs indicate the need for decoking:

• increased oil consumption (the norm is 100 g per 1 thousand km);
• change in exhaust color to bluish or white;
• reduction in engine power;
• decreased compression in one or more cylinders;
• increase in exhaust toxicity, appearance of a characteristic odor.

What are the consequences of coking of piston rings?

Even with slight carbon deposits, the operation of the cylinder-piston group is disrupted. More and more oil enters the combustion chamber, and carbon deposits begin to accumulate more intensely. If decarbonization is not carried out in time, the layers of soot will thicken until the elements of the propulsion system completely fail.

A large layer of coke on the valves leads to a decrease in compression in the cylinders, later to burnout of the valves and squeezing out of the piston rings.

Decoking of engine rings: how is it done?

If a motorist decides to clean the engine himself, he needs to buy a special composition for hard decarbonization and use it according to the instructions. When purchasing, you should pay attention to what type of engine (petrol, diesel) the product is intended for, as well as the volume of the container. Some packages are designed to fill only one cylinder.

Sometimes car owners prepare the cleaning liquid themselves by mixing acetone and kerosene (2:1 or 1:1). In terms of effectiveness, such products are inferior to professional formulations; its use can do more harm than good.

Do-it-yourself decarbonization is carried out in several steps:

• The engine warms up to operating temperature. It is necessary to let it idle for 5-10 minutes. This will allow the cleaning composition to better cope with its task.
• High-voltage wires are removed from the coils.
• The spark plugs are removed.
• Low voltage wires are removed.
• The oil is drained into a clean container. It will be needed later.
• Cleaning liquid is poured into the cylinders through the spark plug hole. You can use a syringe. It is more efficient to decarbonize all cylinders at once.
• The pistons are set to the middle position. To do this, you need to turn the crankshaft and, using an auxiliary tool (you can use a wire), set the piston in the desired position.
• The spark plugs are screwed in slightly (but not completely), and the vehicle is left alone for up to 12 hours (depending on the manufacturer's instructions on the cleaning solution packaging).
• After 6-12 hours, the candles are carefully unscrewed. If you do this carelessly, the decarbonizing liquid will “fly away” into the crater, and the softened carbon deposits will splash out.
• The oil cap is unscrewed, the liquid in which the carbon deposits have dissolved is carefully drained.
• The oil drained at the beginning of the procedure is poured back into the engine.
• Without replacing the spark plugs and ignition coil, the engine cranks on the starter for 5-10 minutes.
• The system is going. After this, you need to drive the car for 20 minutes for better cleaning. During the process, it is recommended to increase the speed to 4000 from time to time.
• Finally, the oil and oil filter are changed. Sometimes the spark plugs also need to be replaced.

When driving after the procedure, you may notice that the exhaust has an unnatural color. It is recommended to perform a test drive away from busy highways and traffic police posts.

Prevention of coking or easy cleaning

Decarbonization of engine rings can be done in a gentle manner. To do this, a special composition for gentle cleaning is added to the engine oil before changing it. Then the car is operated in gentle conditions for 100-300 km, after which the oil is changed.

In recent years, you can find products for the so-called dynamic decarbonization on sale. A special composition is added to the fuel and, entering the combustion chamber with it, penetrates the coke layer, destroying it. The vehicle is operated under normal conditions. This method is also suitable for prevention, but not for eliminating severe soot.

Cleaning Features

Despite its apparent simplicity, the procedure for cleaning the engine has many nuances and complexities. Before you begin, you should learn how to decarbonize the engine correctly. An error may require major repairs or re-cleaning at a car service center.

Important nuances:

• The quality of cleaning depends on the quality of the composition. If you decide to save on the services of a specialist, then do not skimp on at least the composition for decarbonization.
• Violation of the procedure technology leads to incomplete dissolution of carbon deposits. For example, rapid cooling of the engine in cold weather reduces the effectiveness of the solvent. Therefore, in the cold season, it is better to carry out decarbonization in a workshop where there is a special room.
• Solvents are toxic and hazardous to health. Working in a room without good ventilation (for example, in a closed garage in winter), the car owner can get seriously poisoned.
• Features of the procedure depend on the type of engine. It will be difficult for a non-specialist to remove the spark plugs of a V-shaped or boxer engine and fill in the solvent. Boxer engines have a non-standard arrangement: the spark plugs are difficult to reach, and the cleaning composition can leak if not handled carefully.
• To decarbonize a diesel engine, you will have to remove the injectors. To do this you will need a special tool.
• Without experience, it is difficult to set the pistons exactly in the middle position.
• You need to guess the amount of solvent being poured. The volume of the combustion chamber depends on the specific motor, and the instructions for using the cleaning agent are almost the same. It takes years of experience to know how much solvent to add. If you overdo it, the excess will get into the oil mixture and damage the rubber parts. If you don’t add enough, the carbon deposits will not be cleared.

After decoking, the engine regains its original performance qualities, its service life increases - but only if all the work was done correctly. If you do not have experience and value your car, it is better to contact a service center for decarbonization.