How to properly install a drainage system around the house. Proper installation of drainage around the house: we understand the main points of installation

Drainage around the house, waterproofing the foundation and blind area is a set of measures aimed at preventing the foundation of the building from getting wet and the loss of load-bearing properties of the soil. And the device is chosen depending on the type of foundation, type of soil, nature of the high water and groundwater level.

Kinds

Drainage around the house can be surface, deep and reservoir. To be precise, the drainage system is often a combination of these types. For example, the formation view will not be effective if it is not “closed” to the deep view.

Surface

This species is responsible for collecting precipitation and meltwater. It, in turn, can be of two types:

1. Open. This is a system of ditches or trenches that are laid with a slope towards a storm sewer collector or drainage well. Completely open ditches are usually installed only at the boundaries of the site. Around the house (along the perimeter of the blind area), near platforms and paths, gutters are laid in trenches and covered with gratings.
2. Backfill. This is also a system of trenches, but already filled with crushed stone (or gravel) of coarse and medium fractions, where fine fractions, screenings or coarse sand are added for “cleaning”.

The depth of the trenches ranges from 50-70 cm.

Deep

This is a closed system, which is responsible for the drainage of sediment and melt water, as well as seasonal water. In swampy areas and in close proximity to water bodies, deep drainage around the house reduces the load on the waterproofing of the foundation from the effects of high groundwater (above 2 meters from ground level).

Types of deep drainage:

1. Wall-mounted. Purpose - to reduce the pressure of water on the waterproofing of the walls of the underground part of the buried foundation of a house with a basement or underground floor. It consists of drainage pipes laid around the perimeter of the foundation base. Passes at the border of the waterproofing retaining wall or clay castle (provided that they exist).
2. Annular. Used around a house with a shallow foundation. Drainage pipes are laid below the base of the foundation along the perimeter of the house beyond the outer boundary of the blind area.
3. Solid. This type is used to drain the entire area of ​​the house. The scheme consists of main and auxiliary canals, in which the auxiliary canals are laid in a herringbone pattern towards the main ones, and they, in turn, converge into drainage wells.

Plast

This type of drainage can be classified as deep, but it does not pass around the house, but under it. More precisely, under a foundation slab or concrete floors on the ground.

In the standard version, the base of the slab itself, in the form of a cushion made of sand and crushed stone, has its own good drainage properties. And since the area of ​​the bottom of the pit is larger than the area of ​​the slab, to organize the drainage of water from the foundation, it is enough to arrange a ring drainage of pipes around the perimeter.

More complex circuit when the bottom of the pit is made with a slope from the center to the edges or with a decrease in one direction (practice for slopes). And water from the drainage layer is discharged further through a pipe system into receivers or wells.

The most complex scheme is when additional trenches are dug along the bottom of the pit into which crushed stone is poured. For floors, pipes are additionally laid on the ground and connected to the wall drainage.

Device

Surface drainage differs in the method of creating water drainage channels.

A simpler device for backfill surface drainage:

• according to the diagram, trenches are dug (at least 40 cm wide);
• compact the bottom, forming a slope towards the catchment area;
• cover the bottom with a layer of sand (up to 10 cm);
• crushed stone of medium and coarse fractions is poured to the surface level.

For decorative purposes, the top visible layer can be made of pebbles and small boulders to create an imitation of a “dry stream”.

The device for surface tray-type drainage (showers) is a little more complicated, but it is more common:

• According to the diagram, trenches are dug taking into account the size of the trays and the concrete base;
• a layer of a mixture of sand and crushed stone is poured onto the compacted bottom;
• form a base from lean concrete with the required slope;
• install gutters, fill the trench openings with concrete and compact it;
• mounted on top of the grille.

Scheme

The design of deep types of drainage differs from each other only in the level of pipe laying and layout of the site, but the construction principle is common for all:

• a collector well is installed in the place designated according to the diagram;
• they dig trenches for ring drainage, and for common system- main and auxiliary channels;
• wall drainage pipes are laid during the construction or reconstruction of a house, when the foundation is completely open to the very heel;
• in places where trenches turn, inspection wells are installed (if the distance from the turn to the next well is more than 20 m), and if the straight section is long, inspection wells are installed after 25 m;
• the bottom of the trench should not have hard protruding inclusions, and the walls should be straight for dense soils or in the form of a trapezoid with reinforced slopes during work for loose soils;
• if necessary, the bottom of the trench is “strengthened” by filling with sand or laying an artificial base;
• if the drainage pipe has a filter shell, then a single-layer backfill of coarse sand with a high filtration coefficient is made around it;
• If the pipe does not have a geotextile shell, then it is first backfilled with fine crushed stone around it, followed by a layer of sand.

When laying a corrugated pipe without a shell, the grain size should be less than the depth of the corrugation, and the crushed stone should not contain chipped particles with sharp edges.

A pipe without a shell can be laid according to another scheme:

• geotextiles are laid on the bottom and walls of the trench;
• crushed stone is poured;
• lay and connect pipes;
• another layer of crushed stone is poured on top;
• wrap the geotextile panel so that its edges overlap and fasten them;
• fill the trench with sand to the level of the humus layer;
• pour fertile soil or lay a hard surface for paths.

Deep drainage without pipes

On soils with good water permeability and low groundwater level, it is not practical to install an expensive deep drainage system made of perforated pipes around the house. Especially if the area is small. But a surface open or backfill system is also not suitable - it takes away the usable area. In these cases, deep drainage without pipes is arranged, or, as it is also called, soft drainage.

The simplest scheme has almost the same structure as deep drainage, but without pipes:

• dig a trench system;
• geotextiles are laid on the bottom and walls;
• crushed stone is poured;
• fold the edges of the textile overlapping;
• fill with sand and then soil.

Another advantage of this type is the simple nature of the work. The drainage installation time is reduced, plus there is no need to monitor the constant and continuous slope of the pipe - it is enough if the overall level of the trench goes down towards the drainage well or beyond the boundaries of the site (towards ditches or a reservoir).

In general, there are “folk” methods for installing soft drainage without pipes, when bundles tied from long brushwood are used as a water conduit. And to prevent them from silting, they are covered with crushed stone and sand.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

If the house has already been built, and it has become obvious that the soil permeability is low, and throughput wall or reservoir drainage is insufficient, then the easiest way to solve the problem of waterlogging of the soil is to make a ring drainage around the house with your own hands:

1. Draw up a diagram of the location of trenches with their depth and slopes to the collector or drainage well.
2. They dig trenches with a bottom width of more than 40 cm. The depth at the “highest point” should be below the base by the size of the diameter of the drainage pipe plus the thickness of the crushed stone cushion.
3. The bottom of the trenches is compacted, a layer of sand is poured, then crushed stone, and an angle of inclination is formed towards the receiver. The slope is calculated depending on the diameter of the pipe based on a minimum water speed of 1 m/s. But it should lie within 0.5-3%, be constant or increase towards the lowest point.
4. The pipes are laid according to one of the above schemes. Drainage pipes are connected using couplings, which, unlike socket joints, do not become silted. Choice specific type pipes (including material and ring stiffness) depends on the depth and design pressure from above (backfill, soil, and when laying under paths or platforms, the weight of the coating and the load on it must be taken into account).

   A new product has appeared on the market - drainage pipes with an additional filter layer of specially shaped polystyrene foam granules. This layer is located between the pipe and the geotextile shell. When laying this type, backfilling with crushed stone is not required.

5. Backfilling is carried out. The nature and order of layers are chosen according to the type of drainage pipes.

Below is a video on the installation of ring drainage. The owner of the house played it safe and used geotextiles twice - as a pipe shell and around the drainage backfill. Such a system will not silt longer in clay soil conditions. It also shows well how important it is to choose clean crushed stone.

Drainage around the house is no more difficult (but also no easier) than autonomous sewerage with septic tank and filter well. The amount of work involved in laying pipes is greater, but there are no strict requirements for the tightness of the system. And you can do the drainage yourself. The only difficult point is that if the drainage well is mounted from concrete rings, then it is necessary to involve equipment.

Experienced builders and country residents know well that “excess” water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washout of the foundation, flooding of beds, swamping of the area, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer you cannot walk around your summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article we will look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm drain with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of a developer and a country homeowner?

A whole book could be written about the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems. Therefore, we will leave beyond the scope of this article a detailed listing of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence, and will concentrate on practice. But no minimum theoretical knowledge Taking on the task of independently installing drainage and storm sewer systems is throwing money away.

The point is that even an improperly designed drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped in geotextile, which was placed in clayey, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. But money has already been spent on drainage construction and, most importantly, drainage construction involves a large volume of earthworks with the use of technology.

Therefore, simply digging up and relaying a drainage pipe 3-5 years after it was laid is difficult and costly. The site has already been inhabited, landscaping has been done, a blind area has been arranged, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

You will have to rack your brains on how to redo the drainage so as not to ruin the entire area.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological soil survey data(which will help to find a waterproof layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge, what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or waterlogging of the area.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with the period of snowmelt and abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• Capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, if surface water is not drained in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground it turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be drained using storm drainage systems, and don’t try to do surface drainage!

Storm drainage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, discharging water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief on the personal territory. This will allow you to avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made when independent device drainage:

• Failure to maintain the correct slope of laid drainage pipes. If we take an average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on “wrong” soil. To avoid siltation, pipes in geotextiles are used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• Using cheaper crushed limestone instead of granite, which is washed away by water over time.
• Saving on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m/day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm drain

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm drainage on a site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but they are expensive. This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for installing storm drainage and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 FORUMHOUSE Member

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain the melt water that comes from the neighbor. The water must be drained into a ditch. I was wondering how to drain the water. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they would be left with “extra” grates, and I don’t need any special aesthetics for the storm drain. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and saw them lengthwise with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted to the need to cut asbestos-cement pipes on his own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users dissuaded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to deal with cutting pipes on my own, Denis1235 I found a factory that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately cut them into pieces 2 m long (so that the 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be delivered to the site. All that remains is to develop a scheme for laying the trays.

The result is the following “pie”:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray made of asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget rain shower at the dacha. It took 2 days to dig the trench, another two days to pour concreting and install the route. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the route “overwintered” well, did not crack and intercepts water from its neighbor, leaving the area dry. Also interesting is the option of rain (storm) sewerage for the portal user with the nickname yury_by.

yury_by FORUMHOUSE Member

Because The crisis doesn’t seem to be ending, then I started thinking about how to install a storm drain to drain rainwater away from the house. I want to solve the problem, save money, and do everything efficiently.

After some thought, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times less than “red” sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yury_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe might break in the winter if water got between the two layers.

Eventually yury_by I decided to take a budget “gray” pipe, which is used when installing internal sewerage. Although he had concerns that the pipes, which were not as rigid as the “red” ones, would break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yury_by

If you step on the “gray” pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. The lawn has just been laid and there is foot traffic. Having laid the pipe in the trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they kept their shape and the storm drain was working.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photographs.

We dig a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

We paint the manhole cover.

We make an insert into the well with drainage plastic “gray” sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the route of 1 cm per 1 linear meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids left between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating, it can be pressed down with a brick or board.

We put the lid on, install the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget rain shower.

Construction of low-cost drainage and drainage of wetlands

Not everyone gets the “right” plots. In SNT or in new cuts, the land may be very swampy, or the developer may have a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not a light summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - sell/exchange the plot or start draining and putting the plot in order.

In order not to deal with various expensive alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save your family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin Member of FORUMHOUSE

Peat soil is characterized by a high groundwater level. On my site, the water is almost level with the surface, and after rain it does not go into the ground. To drain the top water, it must be thrown outside the site. I didn’t spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is installed as follows: a ditch is dug, tires are placed in it, and the tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth from above does not fall inside. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with pieces of slate that are “unnecessary” in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the “tire” pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also “harder” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 FORUMHOUSE Member

I have a plot in SNT with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT they are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The water level is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the dacha sits for a long time, the area actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the summer when it is very hot. Nobody wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone floats. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with my neighbors. You need to raise your site and find a way to dispose of all the “unnecessary” water from the site.

Even the most reliable and high-quality foundation waterproofing cannot indefinitely resist ground moisture. Sooner or later, water will find its way through opened capillaries, cracks and mechanical defects in the insulating layer. To prevent this from happening, and to prevent the foundation from becoming a capillary pump over time and a source of dampness in the premises, it is necessary to divert groundwater away from the foundation or, at least, reduce the capillary pressure on the waterproofing surface.

Most reliable way To protect the foundation from getting wet is to remove water from it through drainage. The following describes various drainage systems and provides examples of their implementation.

What is drainage and how does it work?

If waterproofing can be compared to a wall for water, then drainage is like a drainage pump. Waterproofing and a drainage system around the house complement each other perfectly and provide the most complete protection of the foundation from ground moisture.

As you know from a school physics course, liquid, according to the law of communicating vessels, always flows into a lower place. Do not forget that in the soil moisture spreads through the capillaries quite slowly. Therefore, quickly draining the collected water through the drainage pipes allows you to create a dry area behind them. It is this effect that is used to protect the foundation of the house.

It is not difficult to lay drainage around the house with your own hands. It is a system of perforated pipes that collect groundwater, which flows by gravity to a discharge point in a suitable place, for example, to a special well.

In any case, drainage pipes are installed at a slope. Ideally, the soil around the house has a slight slope, and there is a ravine nearby where water can be discharged. In a horizontal area located in a lowland, water has to be collected in a special storage tank - a drainage well, from where it is periodically pumped out as it fills. The accumulated moisture can be used both for technical needs and for watering plants.

Ready-made drainage pipes can be replaced with homemade ones. A do-it-yourself drainage pipe is made from orange water pipe (thick-walled pipe for outdoor installation). The effect is achieved by drilling many drainage holes in it.

Types of drainage for a private house

There are two types of do-it-yourself foundation drainage for a house: surface and deep. The first of them is necessary for draining water after melting snow and rain from the surface of the soil or blind area. Structurally, this is an ordinary storm drain. Water is collected into it along the foundation area, which has a slight slope from the wall of the house in the direction of the sewer pipe. The size of the storm drain depends on the maximum precipitation level in the area and the area of ​​the roof that collects water.

To protect from groundwater, it is necessary to equip a deep drainage system. Moreover, it should be located as low as possible, ideally below the base of the foundation.

To save money and time, some inexperienced developers combine the waste and drainage systems by organizing the drainage of roof gutters into a drainage pipe. This should not be done under any circumstances, since during rain the drainage pipe does not have time to drain the drainage water, and it actively penetrates into the soil through the perforation, causing waterlogging around the drainage. If there is nowhere to drain rainwater, you can drain it directly into a drainage storage tank, but always through its own separate pipe.

The drainage arrangement itself greatly depends on the type of soil. So for sandy soil with a high clay horizon lying above the base of the foundation, drainage should take place at the junction of the clay and sandy horizons. Heavy clay soil does not allow water to pass through well, and to determine the depth of water penetration, you will have to dig an exploration pit. On very wetlands, it may be necessary to create a local watershed using a waterproof film or even a concrete barrier in the ground.

Arrangement of deep drainage

The main element of underground drainage is a perforated drainage pipe that collects water from the ground and transports it due to its slope. The greater the slope, the more efficiently the home’s self-installed drainage works, and the more water is drained from the ground. But a strong slope leads to a sharp increase in the amount of work, especially with a large length of the water drainage system.

On the other hand, a small slope of the pipes slows down the movement of water and leads to gradual silting of the internal channels. A slope of at least 1 cm per linear meter of pipe is considered acceptable. The slope angle must remain constant throughout the drainage. Otherwise, sediment will begin to accumulate at the fracture sites, which will gradually lead to blockage of the pipes. During drainage installation, this angle must be controlled using a meter bubble level and a centimeter lining.

A drainage ditch is dug along the perimeter of the foundation no closer than 50 cm from it. If the blind area of ​​the house is wider than half a meter, we dig a ditch along its edge. The minimum width of the ditch is also 50 cm. The wall closest to the foundation is made vertical. The opposite slope of the ditch has a slight slope. Further actions depend on the type of soil and the level of waterlogging in the soil.

Construction of a drainage system on light soils

If the soil does not suffer from high humidity and has a light mechanical structure, drainage can be arranged according to a simplified scheme. Water-permeable geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the ditch with overlapping edges. A layer of coarse sand and several centimeters of medium and fine gravel are poured onto it. A drainage pipe is laid on top of the crushed stone.

Then it is completely covered with crushed stone and the whole thing is covered with the edges of agrofibre. Sand and crushed stone act as a filter, trapping solid particles that can clog drainage holes. The ditch with the pipe is filled up thin layer fine crushed stone, and then soil.

How to make drainage around a house with high levels of waterlogging

For heavily waterlogged soil, the drainage described above will not be enough. To separate excess moisture, waterproofing is first installed along the outer edge of the ditch. The simplest option to make such an artificial watershed is to cover the outer wall of the ditch with a waterproof membrane or several layers of roofing felt. The depth of the ditch in this case must exceed the level of the waterproof clay horizon or be below the base of the foundation.

For complete protection, the drainage must complete a perimeter around the foundation. The drainage point is installed in the place where the pipes are most buried. As already mentioned, a storage tank can serve to collect both groundwater and precipitation. In this case, the joint use of drainage and drainage pipes is unacceptable, and the groundwater discharge point should be located below the connection point for the rain drain.

Bottom line

The drainage system around the house provides sufficient high level protection against foundation wetting. Thanks to a properly equipped water drainage system, you will be free from many problems associated with increased dampness for many years.

Owners of suburban areas are often faced with a situation where an excess of water on their territory after snow melts or heavy rains interferes with comfortable living. An equally significant problem is the high location of the groundwater level in the area. This applies to a greater extent to those whose land ownership is located in the lowlands of the existing terrain and on the slopes of natural hills with a significant clay content in the soil. Excess moisture in the soil not only has an adverse effect on the root system of garden plants, but also floods the basements of buildings, which negatively affects the durability of the foundation structure.

The installation of a drainage system will help solve this problem forever. A drainage system is a complex of engineering structures whose functional purpose is to collect and drain water from the serviced area. Often, for a comfortable stay, it is enough for owners to install a system not throughout the entire site, which is quite expensive from a time and financial point of view, but only drainage around the house.

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Classmates

Depending on the method of implementation, drainage systems are divided into types:

• Superficial, divided into:
  • Linear (carried out in the form of shallowly dug trenches located around the perimeter of the building). Such drainages can be either open or closed. An open system that looks like an uncovered tray along the perimeter of the protected area, in addition to being unsightly appearance In addition, it poses a risk of injury if you move around the territory inattentively and is not popular with landowners. Closed systems more attractive from a safety point of view and have a more presentable appearance;
  • Point ones, which are located directly in places where water accumulates (under drainpipes or in front of the entrance to the house) and are connected to each other by pipes.
• Deep, which consist of a whole network of buried perforated pipes that collect and remove groundwater from the site.

Preliminary work

Before starting work, whether installing drainage around the house with your own hands or by a specialized organization, the following is required:

• Study the area to determine the slope of the existing terrain;
• A detailed design of the future system is being developed, which takes into account the slope of the pipes in the ground of about 5 mm. – 1 cm per linear meter;
• The type of future drainage system is selected based on the conditions prevailing on a particular land plot;
• Select the type of drainage pipes. Currently, both flexible and rigid pipes are available on the market, the drainage effect of which is achieved by the presence of holes along the entire length. Flexible pipes are cheaper, rigid pipes are more durable, and it is worth putting some effort into determining the characteristics that the homeowner prioritizes.

Necessary tools for creating drainage

To carry out the work, depending on the chosen type of drainage around the house, you will need the following tools and consumables:

• Garden wheelbarrow;
• Shovels (scoop and bayonet).
• Hydraulic level (in the form of two flasks connected by a hose) for creating and controlling the slope of the drainage system;
• Roulette;
• Pegs with rope;
• Bulgarian.
• Manual tamping.
• Drainage pipes, gutters, trays and their components.
• Coarse gravel or crushed stone (fractions 20-40 mm);
• Concrete or components for its production (cement);
• River coarse sand.
• Geotextiles.

Technology for installing surface drainage around a private house

This system does not require complex installation, does not stand out on the site, and due to sand traps and waste bins does not cause any difficulties in operation, while having significant throughput.

When choosing the design of such a drainage system, it is necessary to take into account the likelihood of loads affecting it - in places where traffic moves, the use of models with increased strength is required.

Sequence of work:

• In the selected locations for installing the devices, pits are dug, comparable in size to the structure, adding a small margin. The depth of the pits should take into account the thickness of the concrete pad being poured;
• Concrete pads with a thickness of about 100-120 mm are poured into the pits;
• The pits are connected around the perimeter of the house with pipes laid in trenches. The depth of the pipes must correspond to the mark of the top of the concrete pads;
• Stormwater inlets are installed in the pits, connecting them to the drainage pipes of the system. The slope of the pipe system must exceed 0.5% (5 mm per linear meter of pipe length).
• Before the final pouring of concrete, it is necessary to install decorative gratings on the storm inlets to ensure that they are level at 3–5 mm. below the surface of the earth for the greatest efficiency in collecting atmospheric water. Grates usually do not require fasteners, but are simply placed on the device receiving water;
• Fill the space between the rainwater inlets and the walls of the pits with concrete mortar.
• At a distance of 3-5 meters from the building, a trench is dug with a length of four meters and a depth of 0.5 - 0.7 m, the bottom of the trench is covered with coarse sand and thoroughly compacted. The longer the trench, the more effective the drainage from the protected area will be. A layer of geotextile is laid on top, a layer of crushed stone (gravel) about 0.1-0.2 m thick is poured onto it. Pipes from point storm inlets are brought out to the trench and connected to each other. A drainage pipe is laid on the gravel with the holes downwards, and the pipes leading from the rainwater inlets are connected to it with adapters. Then a layer of crushed stone is poured on top with a layer of 0.1 m and covered with geotextiles. Finally, the trench is backfilled with soil and construction of the blind area begins.

System linear drainage around the house, in contrast to point drainage, it is carried out in the form of long open rainwater inlets and is used for buildings without specifically designated atmospheric water discharge zones. In this case, water is collected in receiving gutters along the entire length of the drainage line and then, using underground pipes, is discharged beyond the boundaries of the protected area.

The gutters of such drainage are cast from frost-resistant plastic or fiber-reinforced concrete. They have a long service life and are resistant to significant mechanical stress. Geometric dimensions gutters are selected based on the amount of water they receive, which directly depends on the roof area of ​​the building.

Work production technology:

• • 1. According to a previously developed scheme, the location of storm water inlets is marked on the ground using pegs and rope.
    2. Using the completed markings, trenches are dug for water intake gutters. The depth of the trench bottom is determined based on the height of the storm inlet profile + 100 mm. for pouring a supporting concrete pad, the width of the trench should be approximately 70-100 mm. exceed the width of the gutter. At the same time, we must not forget about ensuring the proper slope of storm water inlets and deepening the gratings covering them by 3-5 mm. below the surface of the earth.
    3. The bottom of the trench is carefully leveled and compacted.
    4. A concrete pad of a given thickness is poured.
    5. At the lowest point of the drainage perimeter around the house, a sand receiver (sand catcher) is installed, monitoring the correctness of its installation at the building level. From the sand trap, water is discharged through pipes buried in the ground into the existing sewer system or outside the site.
    6. Install the gutters of the drainage system by connecting their grooves to each other. It would be a good idea to seal the joints with sealant.
    7. Transition couplings are used to connect gutters with sand trap, for this purpose, its body contains plugged holes or places provided for their installation.
    8. After checking the slope and quality of installation, the gutters on the sides are filled with concrete mortar. Before pouring, decorative gratings should be placed on the gutters to prevent deformation due to pressure on the walls of the concrete mixture.
    9. The trench openings are filled with soil.

Such drainage around the house during operation requires periodic cleaning of rainwater inlets and grates as they become clogged. Depending on the amount of precipitation, it is recommended to carry out the cleaning procedure once every two to three weeks.

Deep drainage technology

Such drainage around the house can be done with your own hands according to two schemes: wall or ring. In both cases, it is a system of drainage perforated pipes that collects soil water at its depth, which is then discharged outside the site. The production of such work, in comparison with surface systems, is characterized by a large volume of excavated soil.

Wall drainage diagram

Wall-mounted Drainage around the house is usually arranged in parallel with the construction of the foundation and basement walls of the building under construction to avoid additional excavation work later. However, if necessary, if a problem with groundwater is discovered after the construction of the building, difficulties with the installation of such a system will also not arise.

Device technology:

• • 1. The basement walls of the building are coated with two layers of hot bitumen mastic, with the first layer reinforced with a painting mesh.
    2. Along the perimeter of the building along the foundation, a trench is dug 0.3-0.5 m below the depth of the foundation base; at the corners of the building and in the lowest place on the site, pits are provided for constructing inspection wells.
    3. A leveling layer of sand 0.1-0.2 m thick is backfilled and carefully compacted layer by layer, observing the required slope of the trench bottom of the order of a centimeter per meter of length.
    4. Lay a layer of geotextile in the trench, trying to ensure that the edges of the fabric extend 50-70 cm onto the walls of the basement and trench.
    5. A layer of crushed stone about 10 cm thick is poured.
    6. Drainage pipes are laid on the crushed stone, orienting them with their holes down.
    7. In the places designated for this purpose, inspection wells are installed and drainage pipes are connected to them. The top edge of the wells should be located above the ground surface. Drainage pipes in wells should have breaks, this will allow them to be cleaned if clogged.
    8. A layer of crushed stone is poured into the trench on top of the drainage pipes so that it covers the pipes by 0.1-0.2 m.
    9. The edges of geotextile from the walls of the trench cover the resulting drainage structure around the foundation of the house and secure them with synthetic twine.
    10. Fill the trench with soil.

Do-it-yourself ring drainage technology around the house

Carrying out drainage according to this scheme is in many ways similar to the wall system and the technology for carrying out the work is almost identical. Ring drainage is optimal when placing the site on clay and loamy soils in buildings where a basement or technical underground is not provided. In this case, a trench for drainage pipes is dug at a distance of 1.5 - 3.5 m from the house, while laying a layer of clay between the drains and the building (the so-called clay castle) to protect the foundation from groundwater infiltration. Otherwise, the technology for carrying out the work is no different from the wall execution scheme. In addition, if the trenches are located at a distance of about 1.5 m from the house, it is possible to use them to collect rainwater by installing linear drainage in the same place. This will save time and effort on excavation work when laying linear storm drains.

As can be seen from the materials in this article, installing drainage around the house with your own hands is a fairly simple task and absolutely any owner of country buildings can do it if they have the desire and a certain amount of finance.

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