Do-it-yourself wheel bearing replacement. Replacing the front wheel bearing: what is needed and how to do it? How to determine if a bearing has failed

The front wheel hub is a component of the vehicle's chassis that performs several functions. The driver needs to know not only how to replace the low beam bulb, but also how to troubleshoot such a hub. If this part fails, the vehicle will not be able to move.

To prevent this, the driver must regularly check the condition of the hubs, organize car maintenance, and promptly contact a special service to repair even the most minor damage to the part. To independently check the operation of the hub, you need to know the features of the device and the functional purpose of the element.

To understand what a hub is, it is worth understanding its main functional purpose. To do this, it is not at all necessary to have special knowledge of the general structure of vehicles.

The hub is a special part that allows the wheel to rotate. To do this, it must be mounted as securely as possible on the axle shaft. A disk is screwed onto the hub, and its design itself contains a pair of rotating bearings. This structural element has quite a lot of functions. Here are the most basic ones.

1. The main task of the hub is a movable and at the same time reliable connection of the wheel disk to the steering knuckle axis.
2. Ensuring high-quality braking and reliability of the entire braking system as a whole. The reason is that the brake disc is also fixed to the hub.
3. In front-wheel drive vehicles, the hub transmits rotational motion to the wheels in the direction of the axle shaft. For this purpose, there is a special internal hole with slots inside, into which one end of the axle shaft enters during movement. This allows the car to move freely along the track.

A modern car has a whole system of electronic sensors that allow it to constantly receive a huge amount of information and ensure the safest movement of the car. The front wheel hub plays an important role in this complex process.

It is necessary to know the structure of the front wheel hub in order to detect and eliminate possible malfunctions. Despite its relatively complex functional purpose, the element has a fairly simple internal structure. Among the main parts of this unit are:

• hub body;
• bearings;
• wheel studs;
• special sensors.

The hub body is a durable cast part made of a special alloy and processed with turning tools.

This element must be considered as a single complex having bearings and studs. For the majority of manufacturers, these elements are only included as a set; they are inseparable from each other.

Such solidity is able to ensure the maximum level of reliability and safety of the entire chassis of the vehicle.

Signs of a malfunction in the hub

The driver will be able to identify certain malfunctions in the operation of the vehicle’s chassis system based on such characteristic features as:

• uneven wear of installed tire treads;
• significant body sway when performing standard braking or turning;
• frequently repeated deviation of the vehicle from a straight line;
• compression and leakage of shock absorbers;
• high level of vibration produced;
• the appearance of various extraneous sounds that constantly accompany the movement of the machine.

Despite the clear audibility of extraneous sounds, the driver will not be able to determine by ear which part of the element the problem has arisen.

If you detect a suspicious sound, you should immediately jack up the vehicle and try to manually spin the front wheels.

When performing this manipulation, you should carefully study the appearance of the wheels. One of the common manifestations of hub failure is increased wear of the rubber. This is caused by strong vibration that radiates into the steering wheel, with simultaneous heating of the brake disc, which occurs due to an improperly rotating bearing.

The heating of the disk can be felt by simply placing your hand on it after traveling 8 - 10 km. If the hub is faulty, the temperature of this element exceeds 70 degrees.

Similar symptoms may characterize such a phenomenon as failure of the hub bearings.

To determine which side the hub has broken, it is not necessary to stop and lift the car. It will be enough to pay attention to the degree of hum produced while turning the steering wheel. When turning right, the noise will increase in the left wheel, when turning left, the sound will come from the right side.

There are many reasons for hub failure. Among the most common causes of failure are the following common factors:

1. Wear of individual system elements.
2. Errors in wheel alignment adjustment.
3. Incorrect mounting of shock absorbers.
4. Heavy long-term loads on the front wheels.

Since there may be several breakdowns, it will be quite difficult to determine the exact cause. However, it is simply impossible not to notice it. Without exception, all malfunctions are very noticeable. You cannot ignore the constant noise or hum that appears, the intensity of which varies in direct proportion to the speed limit or the strength of the braking performed.

If the problems listed above occur, you need to urgently repair the front wheel hub. Depending on the complexity of the situation, repair work may involve simply adjusting the fastening of bearings, bolts or nuts. In other cases, a complete replacement of the hub may be required, when the help of professionals is indispensable.

You can carry out repair work yourself only if you have certain knowledge and special tools. Below you can study the instructions for carrying out repair work. It tells how to check the fastening and how to replace the special rotary cap.

Hub repair and replacement

When carrying out a process such as replacing the front wheel hub, special attention is paid to preparatory work.

First of all, you will need to prepare the necessary tools for this. In most cases, a regular set of special wrenches with heads is sufficient. At the same time, you need to prepare the following tools.

1. Retaining ring remover.
2. Special cup puller.
3. Vise.
4. Screwdrivers.
5. Jack.
6. Chisel.
7. Hammers.

In addition to the jack, it is worth preparing special devices for fixing the car in a stable position. These can be all possible bars and supports. You will also need to purchase new parts if replacement is being done. You need to buy the entire set of hubs or bearings, it all depends on the degree of wear.

Preparing the machine

After carrying out the preparatory work, collecting all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin to replace the failed elements.

It is necessary to “jack up” the car in the right direction, depending on which side the replacement will be made from. To provide additional insurance, it is recommended to install special supports, for example, placing car anti-roll supports under the rear wheels.

Next, the first gear is set at the gearbox; if it is a manual gear, the car is put on the handbrake. Using a special wrench, the wheel bolts and wheel bearing nut are unscrewed. If the car has light alloy wheels, you will have to remove the wheel, then apply the brake and completely unscrew the hub nut.

Quite often, drivers are faced with a situation where the hub nut is very tightly tightened and it is impossible to remove it with a wrench. In this case, you can use the method of drilling through one side of the nut that is stuck. This will allow you to drill out the edge of the part all the way to the thread. Then all that remains is to open the part with a blunt chisel and unscrew it easily and simply.

After completing such measures, you will need to remove the front wheel and remove the protective cap using a screwdriver (read more about). Next, the caliper is removed from the brake disc and moved to the side. For this purpose, the drum together with the stand must be turned towards you and the fasteners unscrewed. After this, the steering, ball joints and ends are removed.

Before starting such work, parts should be treated with a special substance designed to remove rust. This will greatly facilitate the operation associated with unscrewing bolts and nuts.

To remove the brake disc, you will need to unscrew the two bolts built into the hub and then do the same with the nut located in the center. This can be done using a wrench or a chisel, it all depends on how tightly the part is screwed on. Once the strut is completely unscrewed, you can remove the hub and begin repair work.

Three options for repair work

In most cases, one of the hub bearings fails, so the main repair work will be based on its replacement. There can be three main ways and options of action:

1. The first method is based on replacing the part using a puller, but the steering knuckle is not removed.
2. The second option will require its dismantling, after which the bearing will be changed on an installed workbench.
3. The third method involves removing the entire rack. The bearing is replaced using a vice.

Each option has its positive and negative sides.

The positive side of using the first option is that there is no need to remove the adjustment bolt for a system such as wheel alignment. At the same time, the entire work process will not be very convenient, especially if there is no lift or special pit. For this reason, it will be quite difficult to knock out the hub and completely press the bearing.

It will be much easier and simpler to carry out the replacement using the second method. But there is a risk of disrupting the vehicle’s camber adjustment. In this case, before unscrewing the steering knuckle bolts, you will need to note its original position in the rack and at the same time pay attention to the position of the bolt that performs the adjusting function. This will help to avoid errors and errors during reassembly.

The second replacement option is ideal for those who are engaged not only in replacing the bearing, but also all the chassis elements - steering ends, ball joints and silent blocks.

The most difficult replacement option is the third method. Here, in order to remove the rack, you will need to completely unpress the steering tip and unscrew the fastening of the upper support. After this, it will be possible to replace the failed element.

During the replacement process, you need to pay attention to removing/knocking out the hub and its parts. These activities must be carried out very carefully. This will avoid any damage to the socket and the general structure of the mechanism. If the part cannot be reached by hand, the work can be done on a special pressing machine. In this case, you need to try to leave the installed corkscrew ring intact, which is not always included with the new hub.

When dismantling a bearing, do not expect it to remain intact. These elements are almost always destroyed. This needs to be taken into account.

Conclusion

After installing the new part, the entire structure must be assembled following the instructions given above, but in reverse order. After the work has been completed, be sure to visit the nearby service station. Professionals must perform wheel alignment of the car, because after removing the steering linkage, if it was carried out, the previous settings are sure to be lost.

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The hub provides the connection of two parts with the possibility of axial rotation relative to each other. How does a wheel hub work? Let's consider not only the device and operating principle, but also the DIY replacement procedure. We will also show in the video how to adjust the wheel bearings.

Device

Since the wheel is attached to the hub, its purpose is not only to transmit torque from the drive shaft to the wheel rim, but also to create a fulcrum for the wheel in the steering knuckle. Rotation of the wheel hub relative to the steering knuckle is made possible thanks to the wheel bearing, which absorbs radial and axial loads when the vehicle moves.

Schematic representation of the front wheel hub design.

The principle of operation shown in the picture of the unit assumes the presence of only one wheel bearing. In other design options, two bearings can be used, one of which is installed on the inside of the steering knuckle, and the second, respectively, on the outside.

Principle of operation

The operation of the wheel hub is based on the principle of the rolling bearing. Thanks to the rolling elements located inside the bearing, the inner and outer races can rotate freely relative to each other. The separator serves to hold the rolling elements on the trajectory; the oil seal prevents lubricant from being washed out and dirt from getting inside.

Wheel bearings are classified according to the type of rolling element. Main types:

• single-row ball bearings of standard design (not installed on modern cars);
• double-row angular contact balls;
• roller conical;
• double-row conical roller type HUB.

The wheel hub has threaded holes for attaching the wheel rim. During installation, the hub pin (“finger”) fits into the inner race of the wheel bearing. The outer ring is pressed inside the steering knuckle. Thus, the hub and the wheel rotate freely, being connected to the knuckle.

Rear axle without hub

In some cars, the rear axle design does not require a wheel hub. A striking example is Daewoo Matiz, in which the axle is attached to the base of the beam. The operating principle is based on the use of two angular contact roller bearings. Accordingly, the inner race of both bearings is put on the axle (“finger”), and the outer races are pressed into the brake drum.

With this arrangement, the studs for fastening the wheel are installed in the drum. As with all cars with collapsible type wheel bearings, the degree of pressing of the races to the rolling elements is regulated by the tightening torque of the nut or special bolt.

Symptoms of a problem

• Noise when driving at speed. In this case, the extraneous sound most often disappears when turning the steering wheel, but the opposite situation is also possible - the hum appears only when turning. A worn hub can be easily identified during a complex test by shaking the hung wheel in the radial direction.
• Bearings often fail. It is worth disassembling the hub assembly and inspecting the seats for the clips.

In what cases is replacement necessary?

Replacing the wheel hub is required only in two cases:

• The seat for the clip is damaged. During disassembly, very often the inner race remains on the hub axle. Unfortunate craftsmen, not having special pullers, cut the clips with a grinder and chop them with chisels. Of course, with such manipulations the risk of damaging the axle is extremely high. The part can also be damaged if you forcefully hammer in an initially skewed bearing. A defect in the seat can occur if replacement is delayed until the bearing jams, causing the inner race to rotate relative to the journal;
• The manufacturer only regulates the replacement of the wheel hub assembly. In other words, the wheel bearing as such is not listed in the spare parts catalogues.

How to replace it yourself

Replacing the front hub assembly using the example of a Ford Focus 2.

How to press out and press in a hub

The part can be pressed out using a hydraulic press or an attachment and a hammer. In any case, you will need an extension whose diameter will be slightly less than the diameter of the outer race of the bearing.

The main replacement rule is that when pressing a new hub onto a Ford Focus 2, apply force only to the outer race of the bearing!

Before replacing, the seat in the steering knuckle must be cleaned of rust with fine-grained sandpaper and lubricated with engine oil. Make sure that the hub fits without distortion. The outer ring should reach the stop in the fist. After replacement, the hub bolt must be lubricated with thread sealant. The bolt on the Ford Focus 2 is tightened in 2 stages - 35 N*m + additional rotation of 90º.

Bearing replacement and adjustment

Despite the fact that we have already examined in detail, we suggest watching a video of the process of assembling and disassembling the hub assembly on a VAZ 2104. Like many other cars, the principle of operation of the VAZ 2104 hub involves adjusting the wheel bearing, which can only be done correctly using a torque wrench .

An incorrect nut tightening torque will lead to overheating and accelerated wear of the rubbing pairs, which will significantly reduce the life of the hub unit.

If, when the car is moving, an unpleasant noise is heard in the area of ​​the wheel, which may disappear when entering a sharp turn, then this indicates a malfunction of the VAZ 2110 wheel bearing.

This is a fairly common malfunction; it occurs on every fourth car with high mileage. It’s not difficult to correct the situation; you just need to have a garage with a pit and detailed instructions for work.

Tools and spare parts

The fact is that the VAZ 2110 wheel bearing is a small part, and in order to work with it, you need sufficient lighting and some convenience. Therefore, a car prepared for repair should be driven into an inspection hole and sufficient light access should be created to the repair unit.

Before going down into the pit, you need to prepare all the tools and materials. It should also be noted that replacing the front wheel bearings is much more difficult than doing the same work on the rear components.

Therefore, you need to start work from the front node.

A list of required tools should be provided:

• A special puller to remove the bearing;
• The so-called mandrel, that is, a pipe cut of the required size. This device is used to knock out hubs;
• Head 30, equipped with a high-quality wrench;
• Socket wrenches 19 and 17 sizes.

In addition, you need to purchase new suitable bearings that will be needed for replacement. For a VAZ 2110 car, you should choose Russian-made bearing parts rather than giving preference to Chinese analogues. The difference in price for these products is small, so there is no need to experiment.

Stages of work

Work begins with the car being placed in a comfortable position and in first gear. To prevent it from rolling, it is better to install special wheel chocks under the wheels.

Now you can go down into the inspection hole and begin actions that are carried out in the following order:

1. Using a wrench, unscrew the wheel bolts, followed by unscrewing the bearing nuts from the front wheel hubs with a 30mm wrench. It is worth noting here that if a VAZ 2110 car has alloy wheels, you will have to remove the wheels.
   In order to turn the front hub nuts, you must press the brake pedal at the moment of turning, so an assistant is needed here;
2. Now you need to use a screwdriver and use it to press out the calipers;
3. As soon as they are pressed out, you need to use the 17th key to unscrew the calipers from the steering knuckles. As a result of these manipulations, the caliper may hang on the brake hose; to prevent this from happening, you must carefully tie it up;
4. Next, you need to carefully unscrew the brake discs directly from the hubs.

In addition to the listed types of work, you may also need to remove:

• Trunnion assembly;
• Hub cap;
• Retaining ring.

After this, the hub part is available to the master and can be replaced. There are several options for reinstalling a component, so a few words should be said about each.

Replacement methods

First way

• In the first case, it is necessary to use a puller to remove the bearing;
• Simply carefully remove the bearing and replace it with a new one;
• After installation, all the steps above should be carried out in reverse order.

The main advantage of this method is the fact that the technician will not need to touch the camber adjustment bolt, which is very difficult to put in place later.

If we talk about the disadvantages, we can note the following: the master will have to take a very uncomfortable position to perform actions. That is why it is necessary to prepare a lift and climb into the inspection hole.

But it is still very inconvenient for a car enthusiast to knock out the hubs in this position and press in the bearing assembly.

Second way

Consists of the following steps:

• To remove the bearing using the second method, you must carefully dismantle the steering knuckle and completely remove the hub;
• After this, the master will need to go to the workbench;
• The VAZ 2110 wheel bearing is replaced directly on the workbench;
• After this, everything is installed back, just as it was removed before.

This method is undoubtedly much easier than the first, but since it affects the camber, problems with adjustment cannot be avoided. Before you begin to unscrew the knuckle mounting bolts from the strut, you need to mark their position with chalk or a marker.

The first mark in this case will indicate the location of the adjusting bolt on the rack. The second mark will indicate the previous position of the fists.

After the master begins assembly, he will focus precisely on these marks. Of course, it will be difficult to achieve great accuracy and it will not be possible to return the parts to their place. But with careful work, installation errors can be minimized.

There are some steps to follow:

• The master puts marks;
• Knocks out the knuckle bolts;
• Unscrews the mounting bolts from the lower ball joint;
• The bearing must be knocked out of the hub;
• The retaining rings are dismantled;
• Using a vice, the bearings are pressed out.

Before reassembly, the space in the fists must be thoroughly and thoroughly lubricated.

This method is often used when repairing not only one bearing component, but the entire chassis. As a result of this method, it will also be possible to safely replace ball joints, silent blocks of levers and steering ends.

Third way

It is carried out in the following order:

• In this case, you will need to remove the entire rack completely;
• After all the components have been removed, the technician will need a special vice;
• The wheel bearing will be replaced at the vise and all parts will be reinstalled.

This method is the most complex and difficult because it requires the technician to dismantle the entire rack. In addition, it will be necessary to unpress the steering tip, and you also need to unscrew the fastening nuts, they secure the upper support to the body base.

Direct removal of this VAZ 2110 unit is carried out only after the entire rack has been removed from the car. And this process takes a lot of time.

Nuances

In the process of reassembling the entire node, you must proceed as follows:

• Press in the bearings;
• Install retaining rings;
• Collect your fists;
• Mount new bearing components on them;
• Mount the assembly on the hub;
• Using a mandrel, you need to drive the hubs until they stop.

You can use a puller or press to press in bearing parts. But in no case should you use a hammer, since in this case cracking of the component will inevitably occur. The forces should be directed to the outer rings.

It should also be noted that double-row ball bearings are installed in the hubs, which do not require lubrication and adjustment measures.

Due to the lack of such care, the VAZ 2110 bearings will certainly be destroyed when removed from the hub, so this measure should only be resorted to for a complete replacement.

Working with the puller

If you still don’t want to damage the bearing, then you can replace it without knocking it out of the hub. In order to remove it from there, you can use a special puller. Removal is much easier with this device.

To do this, you need to carefully insert the puller's paws into the grooves on the hub and remove the ring. Sometimes this requires some effort; the ring must be pryed with a screwdriver and removed. Using the device, the part is removed and the nicks on the component are smoothed out.

Then, using a puller, you can also press the new part into the steering knuckle. This tool allows you to press the hub with high quality. Working with a tool of this type greatly simplifies the entire process, and the technician will need less time for all removal and installation. But operating the unit requires some skill and great care.

As you can see from this article, even such a simple repair job as replacing a wheel bearing can have many nuances.

As components of the chassis, wheel bearings are very important to ensure the performance of the vehicle and the safety of road users. If these elements fail, the car may become uncontrollable. Their proper condition must be monitored during vehicle operation and, if necessary, wheel bearings should be replaced during maintenance.

The hub is the central part of a rotating part, threaded onto the wheel axle. It mates with the disk, spokes and rim of the wheel. A bearing is pressed into its inner hole. The hub not only attaches to the wheel, but also allows it to rotate. If it is connected to the drive wheels, it is also a transmission element. The braking system of the car is also connected to it. There is usually no need to install a new hub, but replacing a wheel bearing is an operation that cannot be avoided. It is necessary to change the entire hub assembly only if it is non-separable, and replacing the hub bearing as a separate operation is impossible.

Causes and signs of failure

Bearings cannot be repaired, so if they break, they are replaced. The service life of this part is designed for 100,000 kilometers, but a number of factors contribute to reducing this period:

• Operation in difficult conditions, on bad roads.
• Poor quality of lubricant, its lack or excess.
• Ingress of moisture and dust.
• Errors when changing wheels: lack of adjustment and incorrect clearance, over-tightening of the bushing, etc.

Be sure to watch the video about bearing diagnostics:

Therefore, despite the mileage, the bearings should be checked every time the brake pads are repaired. Signs of failure indicate:

• Hub overheating.
• Wheel play.
• When driving on a flat road, a monotonous hum occurs in the area of ​​the front or rear wheels.
• A knocking noise that gets worse when driving on rough roads.
• Uncharacteristic braking when turning the steering wheel.

If these signs are present, it is necessary to diagnose the condition of the car, because these signs may indicate the presence of other problems.
You can carry out the operation of replacing the bearing assembly yourself. For this you will need: a jack (lift), screwdrivers, a balloon wrench, a puller for the hub nut, a pry bar, lubricant - lithol, and maybe a chisel.

So, replacing the front wheel hub bearing: algorithm of actions

Preparatory stages:

Method one. If during installation you do not want to touch the camber adjustment bolt and are not afraid of the inconvenience during repairs, then choose to change the bearing without removing the steering knuckle. For this operation you will need a puller, as well as an inspection hole or lift.
Method two. With this method, removing the bearing and installing a new one will be much more convenient, but in this case the camber adjustment will be disrupted. Before starting the operation, 2 marks should be installed, noting the position of the adjusting bolt and the steering knuckle. We unscrew the bolts that secure the ball joint to the knuckle. Tapping carefully, remove the bolts. We dismantle the steering knuckle. Using a suitable size socket, knock the hub off the bearing. Remove the retaining ring. Using a vice, fix the puller and remove the part to be replaced. We clean the seat from dirt and lubricate it. We press in the new bearing and fasten the retaining ring. We mount the steering knuckle on the hub. Applying force to the inner race of the bearing, we drive it in until it stops. Install the remaining elements in reverse order. After tightening the bearing nuts, be sure to press down the sides of the nut.
Method three. It is used when the first two are not suitable, since this method is the most labor-intensive. Before starting work, the steering tip should be unpressed. Unscrew the nuts that secure the upper support to the body. We replace the dismantled rack.
Timely replacement of grease in the front wheel hub bearings will extend the life of these elements.

Be sure to watch the video about replacing the wheel bearing on a Ford Focus:

Features of replacing the rear wheel hub bearing

1. We put the car in first gear. Raise the rear part with a jack. We install stops under the front wheels.
2. Having disconnected the guide pins, we dismantle the brake drum and brake pads.
3. Remove the plug from the hub mounting nut and, using a puller, unscrew the nut.
4. We knock the hub off the axle. Ideally, the part is removed along with the bearing ring.
5. Using pliers, remove the retaining ring and knock off the boot. We work carefully so as not to damage the hub.
6. We clean the seat from dirt and lubricate it with lithol.
7. Use a puller to press in the new bearing. Do not use a hammer!
8. We install the boot and retaining ring.
9. Install the hub onto the axle by lightly tapping the inner ring of the bearing.
10. We tighten the trunnion, pressing the sides.

We assemble the hub assembly in the reverse order, pumping, removing air from the brake system, and adjusting the parking brake.
It is better to perform this operation simultaneously for both rear wheels.

Be sure to watch the video about replacing the rear wheel bearing on a Logan:

If you don’t want to go to the wheel alignment after changing the bearing, you can remove the entire strut.

—So, the very first thing you need to do is move and unscrew the hub nut.

—Raise the car on a lift (or jack up the desired side), remove the wheel.

—unscrew the caliper, remove it and the pads, unscrew the caliper bracket, remove the brake disc.

— clean the dirt from the threads of the steering tip and the ball joint bolt, unscrew them

-Using a puller, unfasten the steering tip pin

— remove the bolt for fixing the ball joint pin; to easily remove the pin from the terminal, you can insert a wide chisel into the slot of the terminal and lightly tap it a couple of times

Using vertical blows, lower the lever down through an aluminum or copper mandrel.

—move the lever down, pull the strut towards you, remove the splined part of the CV joint from the hub

—now unscrew the top nut, holding the stand

And remove the rack assembly from the body

—Now we need to knock out the hub itself. To do this, you need to use a round mandrel that is as close in diameter to the inner diameter of the bearing as possible. Having fixed the fist on stable supports, or in a vice, you can remove the hub with a couple or three strong blows.

Please note that if the hub falls out easily, and there is Not One of the inner races of the bearing remains - most likely it (the hub) will have to be changed.

— to remove the remains of the old bearing, it is necessary to remove the retaining rings. Before you pick up a ring puller, “prepare the ground”; old rings become very sour in your fist, and you can simply break the puller without achieving results.

To do this, insert the end of a blunt screwdriver or chisel into the hole in the retaining ring and tap toward the slot until the ring moves. Repeat with the other end, and the same on the other side.

Then you can approach with a puller

In principle, you can limit yourself to one retaining ring, if the second one looks decent.

-clean the part of the knuckle through which the bearing will come out with a carriage, fix the steering knuckle again on stable supports, you can either knock out the remains of the bearing with any mandrel suitable in size, or use a press

—Now you need to remove the inner race from the hub itself. Clamp the hub in a vice, and driving a chisel between the body of the hub and the cage, move it “towards the exit”.

Usually, to facilitate this task, two grooves are made on the hubs, where the chisel must be inserted. If there are no grooves, you can make them yourself using a grinder.

It’s even easier if you have a special puller at hand.

Pay attention to the working surface of the hub: it should be even and smooth. If there is a clear division into two halves, the hub should be replaced.

—before you start pressing in a new bearing, you must clean all surfaces and the groove for the retaining ring

- lightly lubricate either the surface of the bearing itself or the inside of the fist with lubricant such as Litol,

For pressing, it is advisable to have either a mandrel that is half a millimeter thinner than the bearing itself, or you can use an old bearing, sanding about 10 mm from the edge

For many manufacturers, one edge of the outer race of the bearing has an “overhang”

it needs to be oriented inside the fist.

Place the mandrel (or old bearing) on ​​the stand, place the new bearing on it, and “cover” it with the steering knuckle

We press it in with constant monitoring to ensure that no distortion occurs. Make sure that the bearing rests against the retaining ring, the groove is completely visible from the reverse side, insert the second retaining ring

— Now put the hub on the stand, attach the steering knuckle on top, place the mandrel strictly only on the inner race! and press in. Make sure that the hub rotates easily, without rolling

-now you can assemble in reverse order

—put on the wheel, tighten the hub nut, lower the car, tighten the hub nut with the required force.

After removing the car from the lift (jack), do not forget to press the brake pedal several times to hang the pads on the discs.