Cesspools in a private house. How easy is it to make a cesspool in a private house yourself and without special expenses? Preparation for work

Before every owner country house There is a question of organizing the disposal of sewage and waste.

It is impossible to install a sewer system here, as in urban conditions. The best solution will become cesspool.

Previously, to construct a cesspool, people dug a large well, the bottom and walls of which were lined with a thick layer of clay, which protected the soil and groundwater from mixing with wastewater.

But, you see, we are talking about a rather labor-intensive process.

Today no one uses this method of sewerage arrangement.

There are new technologies that make the task easier and more efficient.

It cannot be said that the cesspool is installed in the place where the owner of the house wishes. When deciding where to dig a cesspool, you must be guided by special documents and sanitary standards, and they say the following:

• the distance from the cesspool to a residential building should not be less than 12 meters;
• the distance from the cesspool to the fence should be more than 1 meter;
• the distance from the cesspool to wells or wells with drinking water cannot be less than 5 meters.

But these are not all the points that should be taken into account when choosing a suitable place. You need to understand that you cannot place a hole near a garden or vegetable garden. It is also necessary to provide easy access to it so that a vehicle can drive up to pump out the contents.

How to calculate the volume of a cesspool

In order for you not to have to call a sewer truck too often to clean the cesspool, you need to correctly calculate its optimal volume. It will depend on the number of people living in the house. For a family of 3-4 people, the average monthly runoff volume is usually 12-13 cubic meters. Based on this, it can be determined that for such a number of people the minimum volume of a cesspool should be 18-20 cubic meters. Simply put, the minimum reserve volume of a cesspool is 40% of the monthly flow. But such a reserve can be made only in cases where the soil allows water to pass through well. If your summer cottage has clay soil, the reserve volume of the pit should be larger.

Materials for cesspool

There are several types of materials that are used to construct cesspools, preventing wastewater from entering the soil and groundwater. From these you will need to choose the most suitable one:

• brick, concrete blocks, stone - today they are used very rarely, because installation requires a lot of labor and a lot of time;
• reinforced concrete rings - they are often used in the construction of cesspools;
• metal and plastic barrels - their average volume is 200 liters. This wave is enough for a small family. Plastic containers are more in demand because they do not corrode.

DIY cesspool in a private house

Each person decides independently what material to use for arranging a cesspool, first assessing the durability of the future structure, as well as financial costs and ease of installation.

Cesspool made of concrete rings: diagram and design

Concrete rings are quite popular today among owners of private country houses. This is not surprising, because they have many significant advantages over other methods:

• durability of the structure - the service life of such products reaches 100 years;
• concrete withstands the fermentation and decay processes that constantly occur in a cesspool and are dangerous for the soil;
• ease of installation of the structure, which makes it possible to reduce the time spent on arranging a cesspool;
• effective protection of soil and groundwater from pollution.

Considering the high popularity of concrete rings, let’s take a closer look at their use in sewerage installations.

The rings themselves are products made of high-strength concrete. Inside they are a reinforcing metal mesh, providing additional strength. The good thing about rings is that through them water will definitely not be able to penetrate into the soil and groundwater, contributing to their pollution. The only point that you should pay attention to when arranging such a cesspool is the joints between the concrete rings. They must be well treated with a special water-repellent cement mortar.

As for the disadvantages, in this case there is only one - the large weight of the products obliges you to resort to the help of special equipment. But, if you look at this need from the other side, then on the contrary, by using special equipment, you can get the job done much faster.

Important! When considering the construction of a cesspool in private house, special attention should be paid to its bottom so that through it the runoff cannot enter the groundwater. You can arrange the bottom in one of the following ways:

• prepare the bottom of the hole by filling it with sand, gravel or crushed stone. Next, install a special frame made of metal reinforcement, and then fill the bottom with concrete mortar to a height of 20-25 cm. This method is quite cheap. But its disadvantage is that the concrete solution will take quite a long time to dry completely;
• buy a ready-made bottom - it is made in the same factories as the concrete rings themselves. Accordingly, the cost of this method of arranging the bottom of the pit will be higher, and installation will have to be carried out using special equipment. The advantages include the minimum amount of time required to solve this problem.

Now we will consider in detail the installation of a cesspool made of concrete rings. The work is not particularly difficult, but must be performed in strict accordance with existing technology:

1. you need to dig a hole corresponding in volume to the number of people living in the house, and in diameter - in accordance with the size of the concrete rings;
2. You can start arranging the bottom. If you prefer cement mortar, then you should take care of its proper preparation. The ratio of cement and crushed stone will be 1:6. The solution will take a week to harden. If you are building a cesspool in the summer, the concrete should be periodically moistened with water. This way you can prevent the appearance of cracks on its surface;
3. lowering the rings. This is done using a special crane, because the products are heavy. After you lower the first ring into the hole, immediately seal its joint with the bottom. This is best done using liquid glass, which is added to the cement mortar. After the mixture is well mixed, it can be used to treat the seams. Note! If there is a high groundwater level in the area, it is better to treat the seams not only from the inside, but also from the outside of the structure. This way you will be completely sure that wastewater will not get into the ground. After lowering the next ring, its joint with the previous one should be processed in the same way. It is best to use concrete rings with a special “lock”, which will ensure their strong fastening. If this is not the case, then the products must be fastened with metal staples;
4. the final stage is the installation of the well cover, which can be purchased at the same factory where the rings are made. The cover is mounted using a tap. It is equipped with a special hatch and ventilation holes.

We looked at how to make a cesspool from concrete rings - there is nothing complicated here, the work can be done with your own hands, without the help of specialists.

In addition to the main workflow, there will be some other points that may raise questions for you. For example, in which part of the cesspool should the drain pipe be connected, and how to do this so that the sewage system works properly. To get an answer to your question, study diagram of a cesspool in a private house, located above. A thematic video is also offered here, which shows each stage of installation and arrangement of the structure. Some people draw up cesspool plans on their own, using previously studied information.

Sealed cesspool: diagram and device

There is another method of arranging a cesspool. It is considered the simplest and quite affordable. We are talking about special containers - plastic tanks, which are produced by factories in finished form. They have some advantages over concrete rings:

• light weight;
• ease of installation;
• tightness.

To equip a cesspool in this way, you do not need to perform many labor-intensive steps. You just need to dig a hole of the required volume and shape so that the tank can be placed there, then prepare it for installation by arranging a special concrete pad. Its surface must be smooth. Next, the pillow will need to be covered with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, after which you can begin lowering the plastic container into the hole. Once the tank is installed, all that remains is to connect the waste pipes. After this, the pit is filled with a concrete-sand mixture (1:5), the top layer is made of soil. The cesspool is ready for use.

We looked at several options for how to make a cesspool with your own hands. To choose one that is most suitable, you need to first evaluate your financial capabilities, as well as your skills, if you do not resort to the help of professionals. Of course, setting up a cesspool using a plastic tank will be the simplest, so this option most owners of country houses give their preference

If a person lives in a house, it must have a sewer system, since waste products still need to be removed somehow. And it’s hard to disagree with this, isn’t it? Modern industry offers many solutions: from multi-section septic tanks to neat dry closets. But an ordinary cesspool in a private house is still relevant and in demand.

But, before you start building a cesspool on your site, you will have to weigh the pros and cons. After all, an incorrectly chosen location, and the design of the cesspool itself, subsequently threatens to result in many problems. The most common of them is the appearance of an unpleasant odor. We will tell you how to avoid this problem.

In the article we collected and summarized information about the types and design features of cesspools. In addition, here you can find useful tips and recommendations on how to properly select and build a sewer system on the site. The material is accompanied by thematic photos and videos.

A cesspool is perhaps the oldest and simplest type of sewage system. It is a depression in the ground in which wastewater is accumulated and partially processed.

Any wastewater contains a certain amount of bacteria that absorb and transform these accumulations. Part of the filtered wastewater passes into the underlying soils.

Everything that has not been processed and has not gone into the underlying layers should be periodically removed from the cesspool so that the container does not overfill.

Image gallery

The operation of the water supply system, bathroom and toilet of a country house requires arrangement competent system collection and disposal of wastewater. And if, in the presence of a centralized sewerage system, it is enough to obtain permission and make a connection into the communal system, then if there are no benefits of civilization near the site, the problem of wastewater disposal will have to be dealt with independently. Currently, there are options for solving this issue, including factory cleaning systems, but the simplest option is still a cesspool - a structure that has been tested by more than one generation of homeowners. A waste tank of this type is good because it can be easily built with your own hands, and the emergence of new technologies and materials makes it possible to do this in record time.

Design Features

Depending on the design, any cesspool can be classified as a filtration (absorption) drainage structure or a sealed sewer tank. Sewage collectors of the first type ensure the absorption of wastewater into the ground, where it is decomposed by microorganisms into water and organic matter, while the latter are storage tanks that require pumping and removal of domestic wastewater from the site.

The costs of installing a cesspool will pay off handsomely: this structure will provide an urban level of comfort even far from civilization

Many online sources claim that the choice of one design or another depends on the daily amount of waste discharged. The authors recommend using sealed cesspools for volumes of more than one cubic meter per day. We consider this statement to be only partially true. Judge for yourself: the maximum depth of the structure is 4 m (otherwise the hose of the sewer truck will not be able to reach the bottom of the pit), while more than 1 m is spent on deepening the sewer line. Therefore, about 3 m of usable height remains. Even if the pit has an impressive diameter and volume of 5–6 cubic meters, it will have to be pumped out at least once a week. The filtration design will allow you to increase this interval by a third, especially since, if necessary, the process of pumping it out is completely no different from servicing a sealed container. The only thing that may hinder the construction of absorption pits is their low environmental friendliness, since a large amount of wastewater can pollute aquifers. If the hydrology of the site, as well as its size and landscape features allow the construction of any type of pit, then the filtration system will be unrivaled.

A feature of absorbent sewer collectors is the presence of a drainage layer

Sewage pits without pumping are characterized by the presence of side walls and a floor slab, while instead of a bottom, the structure is equipped with a crushed stone cushion. Thanks to it, wastewater is filtered from large fractions of sewage and absorbed into the ground. Often the walls of absorbent structures have perforations, which increases the absorption capacity of the pit. The cover of the structure prevents debris from entering the pit, avoids freezing of the sewage system in winter and protects against the spread of unpleasant odors. A hatch is built in the upper part of the structure, through which the level of wastewater is monitored and the pit is pumped out.

Design features of sealed and filtering sewage pits

The advantages of absorption containers are their simplicity and low cost. In addition, when using them, the operational interval between pumping out sludge and waste masses significantly increases. However, the presence of many shortcomings does not allow us to call this design ideal:

• limited daily volume of wastewater;
• impossibility of building a structure with high level groundwater;
• low degree of wastewater treatment;
• decrease in filtration capacity during operation;
• unpleasant odors around the building.

Despite these disadvantages, unsealed cesspools are attractive due to their simplicity and the ability to use materials that are often left over during the construction of a country house.

Factory made plastic container is one of the most durable and simple ways sewerage installations

Sealed sewer pits do not have the disadvantages of absorption structures, but require regular pumping of waste. They differ from filtration wells in that the bottom and walls of the containers are made waterproof, and their design involves the installation of a ventilation riser. The construction technology of both cesspools differs only in terms of sealing and has much in common. As for the choice of location, for hermetic structures the standards are more democratic, although they require thinking through access routes and arrangement of the site for the sewer truck.

The use of special bacterial agents can improve the efficiency of waterproof drainage structures. Bacteria process sewage into bottom sediment and water, which can be used to water the garden.

Selection of material for construction

The filtration pit can be built from whole or broken bricks, gas silicate blocks or concrete rings. Also, the walls of the structure are made of concrete, capacious iron containers without a bottom or old ones are used car tires. In short, any suitable materials will do for arranging a leaky structure.

For the manufacture of drain collectors of the second type, solid concrete structures are used, as well as sealed containers made of metal and plastic. In addition, you can build a pit in the traditional way - from brick or reinforced concrete rings, concrete its bottom and ensure the walls are waterproof.

Brick

Brick absorption pit

A waste tank made of brick is one of the most inexpensive and simplest options, especially if it is necessary to build a pit without pumping. Brick allows you to make the walls solid or with gaps, which increase the filtration capacity of the structure. The advantages of this design include the possibility of building a pit of any size and configuration. Brick absorption wells are not without the disadvantages inherent in any leaky systems - siltation and negative impact on the environment. In addition, masonry bricks are quickly destroyed under aggressive operating conditions, which leads to a short service life filtration systems- about 20 years.

From car tires

Worn tires for trucks are a cheap and durable material for arranging a waste tank without pumping

You can build a drainage system for the bathroom and toilet of a country house at minimal cost by using car tires as a building material for a soaking cesspool. To do this, it is enough to dig a pit of sufficient size and arrange a filter layer of crushed stone at its bottom. Tires installed one on top of the other form a durable structure that prevents the walls of the structure from collapsing.

As in the previous version, the negative aspects include a high probability of contamination environment wastewater and tire decomposition products, rapid siltation and reduced system efficiency.

To increase the filtration capacity of the cesspool, spacers are installed between the tires. The resulting gaps work in the same way as perforations in concrete and brick pits, increasing the area of ​​contact between wastewater and the soil.

Made from monolithic reinforced concrete

Concrete tank is one of the strongest and most durable sewer structures

This type of cesspool is a structure with concrete walls and a bottom, constructed by pouring concrete mixture into an installed sheathing. Despite the fact that such a container is considered the most reliable and durable, high labor costs do not allow this design to be called the best. Currently, this construction method is being replaced by ready-made sets of reinforced concrete rings and covers.

Made from concrete rings

Depending on the tightness requirements, concrete rings can have solid or perforated walls

Arranging a cesspool from cast concrete rings can only be partially classified as an inexpensive option. This is due to the fact that you will have to not only buy building materials, but also hire equipment for loading and transportation to the site. In addition, the installation of heavy reinforced concrete products will also require the use of lifting mechanisms (later we will tell you how, if you wish and have free time, you can get by with just a shovel). However, this option is the simplest and most durable way to construct both absorbent cesspools and sealed structures. Currently, reinforced concrete rings with perforated walls are produced, which are ideal for the construction of sewage collectors without pumping.

From metal and plastic containers

Even from an old metal barrel you can build a filtration pit, which will ensure the functionality of the sewage system of a country house

The easiest way to make a waste pit is to bury a plastic or metal container of suitable volume at a depth. Moreover, this method allows you to obtain both a sealed structure and an absorbent system. The difference between the second option and the first is the absence of the bottom of the container and the presence of perforations in the walls. In addition, in the latter case, you will have to additionally prepare the bottom of the pit by making a crushed stone filtration pad.

Project for a summer cottage

Those who think that the construction of a cesspool does not require preliminary calculations are mistaken. In order for the sewer system to operate without emergency stops, it is necessary not only to calculate the required volume of the sewer well and consider its design, but also to choose the right construction site.

Size of sewerage structure

The size of the cesspool depends primarily on the daily amount of wastewater, design (with or without pumping), operating mode (regular or periodic use), soil type and other factors.

To calculate a sewer tank without a bottom, the following factors are taken into account:

• the volume of wastewater per family member when using a bathroom, toilet and washing machine is taken to be 200 liters. Depending on specific conditions, this figure is reduced to 150 l;
• calculations are based on the maximum daily wastewater flow;
• when determining the size of a cesspool, its volume must accommodate at least three times the daily amount of waste. That is, for a family from three people the container must hold at least 1.8 cubic meters of liquid.

The dimensions of the sewer well are determined for reasons of convenience, taking into account that the depth must be measured from the point of entry of the sewer line into it. As for the proportions of the structure, its depth should be at least 2–2.5 times greater than the vertical dimensions (length, width or diameter). Due to the fact that the wastewater is purified by anaerobic bacteria and goes into the ground, the size of the absorption system will be sufficient for effective operation.

When determining the volume of a filtration cesspool, the composition of the soil on the site must be taken into account. Sands and sandy loams allow water to pass through perfectly, while clay or loamy soil requires a larger area of ​​contact between wastewater and the soil, and therefore an increase in the size of the pit.

For the construction of a sewer storage tank, the same averaged data on drainage are used as in the case discussed above. In this case, the daily volume is multiplied by the interval between pumping in days. For example, if you plan to pump out a pit once every two weeks, then for a family of three its volume should be 150x3x14=6.3 cubic meters.

Most sewer trucks will be able to take away a little more than 3 cubic meters. m of wastewater, therefore, a comprehensive analysis of the arrangement of a large-volume wastewater tank is necessary

Before making a final decision about the size of the sewer structure, be sure to consult with the utility services or private individuals who pump the sewer. The fact is that the volume of most sewage disposal machines is 3.6 cubic meters, and only some models have a tank increased to 5–8 cubic meters. If your area is being served for the first time, then you need to carefully consider whether it makes sense to build a sewer with a larger capacity than the sewer can pump out. At the same time, it is necessary to provide additional space if the arrival of service vehicles may be difficult or irregular.

Choosing a site for construction

When choosing a site for construction, they are guided by the norms of sanitary and epidemiological legislation, construction SNiP and common sense. If you collect all the recommendations, you will get a rather long list. However, we advise you not to neglect the rules, since failure to comply with them is fraught with both ineffective work and inconvenience of sewerage maintenance, as well as administrative liability under the current Code of Administrative Offenses.

Restrictions on choosing a location for a cesspool

1. You should not place the cesspool at the very bottom of the site to avoid flooding or rainwater.
2. It is prohibited to install filtration structures if the groundwater level is less than 4 m.
3. The hole must be removed:
   from the foundations of buildings - no less than 10 m;
   from fences - more than 1 m;
   from roads and trees - 4 m.
4. The distance from sources of drinking water should be:
   For clay soils- at least 20 m;
   for loams - at least 30 m;
   for sands and sandy loams - from 50 m.
5. When choosing a location for a cesspool, be sure to take into account the possibility of access by a sewage truck.

Blueprints. Photo gallery

At the final stage of designing a sewer tank, a drawing of the structure is drawn up, indicating the dimensions and distances from nearby objects. In addition, the entry points of sewer lines and other design features are indicated. For those who consider such a structure to be so elementary that its design does not require “extraordinary body movements,” we recommend drawing up at least a simple sketch diagram. Believe me: it is better to correct mistakes made in pencil on paper than to redo a multi-ton reinforced concrete structure. The presented drawings of cesspools can be used in your project, adapted to specific sizes and conditions.

Drawing of a filtration wastewater structure Drawing of a sewer tank made of concrete rings Drawing of a sewer pit with overflow Drawing of a cesspool for a country toilet

Instructions for making sealed and filtration cesspools

Having decided on the location of the drainage pit and made the necessary calculations, proceed to earthworks. If the sewer system is installed using a plastic or metal container, brick or concrete, then prepare a pit of the required dimensions. It is dug by hand or using earth-moving equipment.

An excavator will save time and effort when preparing a pit, but in some cases it will not be possible to use earthmoving equipment

For the construction of a sewer collector, the easiest way is to use the services of an excavator and a crane. However, there are cases when the use of equipment on a site is impossible due to a number of reasons - there are no access roads, power lines are in the way, etc. In this case, they use old way, which our grandfathers used. One of the rings is put in place, climbed inside and, using a shovel with a short handle, the soil is removed, gradually removing the soil from under the walls. It is necessary to constantly monitor the level of the product, since it is important that the reinforced concrete element goes into the ground strictly vertically. After the upper cut of the structure is flush with the site, install the next ring and continue to remove soil until the desired depth is reached.

Required tools and materials

Depending on the design of the wastewater tank, before starting construction, prepare bricks, concrete rings or a prefabricated reinforced concrete structure with a lid, tires from trucks, boards for formwork, etc. In addition, you will need the following tools and materials:

• cement and sand for preparing mortar;
• small rubble and crushed stone for arranging the filtration layer;
• metal rod or reinforcement for making a concrete cover;
• a hatch with a frame or metal corners and metal for its manufacture;
• waterproofing;
• buckets and container for preparing the solution;
• trowel, mason's hammer;
• bubble level, cord and plumb line;
• shovels and bayonet shovels.

If you are planning a large volume of concrete work, then it is best to use a concrete mixer, which you can borrow from friends or rent.

Brick building for a private house

For the construction of the sewer, red solid brick is used. It is best if it is burnt material, which is considered defective in production. Silicate products are not recommended for use due to their low resistance in a humid environment.

The work order is as follows:

1. After the pit is dug, its bottom is leveled and covered with a 50-centimeter layer of crushed stone or concreted, depending on the tightness of the structure. The last option is carried out with the installation of an armored belt that strengthens the concrete base of the drain collector.

   Arrangement of the filtration layer

2. Perform wall masonry. Depending on the project, the structure may have a round, square or rectangular shape. The sealed container is laid entirely, with all joints carefully filled with sand-cement mortar. To make a pit without pumping, bricks are laid in a checkerboard pattern, increasing the filtration efficiency of the structure.

   This is what the masonry of an absorption-type sewer pit looks like

3. It is better to make a window around the sewer pipeline with a side and top gap between the pipe and the masonry of 5 to 10 cm. This solution will not affect the tightness of the structure, but when the structure shrinks, this trick will save the pipe from damage.
4. The walls are laid out to a height below 20–30 cm from the level of the site, after which they begin to arrange the ceiling. To do this, install a sealed sheathing with a hole for a hatch on the pit, construct an armored belt, and fill the slab with concrete mortar. The frame and hatch cover can be purchased or made from scrap materials: pieces of metal corners, profile pipes and steel sheets.

   Covering a sewer tank with a hatch for pumping out wastewater

5. The slab is covered with a layer of soil and compacted.
   In regions with a harsh climate, the distance from the slab to the zero level of the site is increased to 50–60 cm. This allows you to fill the hole with a thick layer of soil, which prevents the sewage system from freezing in winter.

Video: secrets of building a brick pit

Sump pit made of reinforced concrete rings

Today, manufacturers offer rings in a wide range. You must understand that for the diameter of additional elements of more than 1.5 m, you will have to use lifting equipment, therefore the best option for making a cesspool with your own hands, products measuring Ø1×0.89 m are available. Together with the rings, you can purchase a concrete bottom and lid. This will reduce construction time to a minimum.

Table standard sizes reinforced concrete rings for wells and cesspools

Instructions for the progress of work:

1. By analogy with a brick structure, a filter crushed stone layer is constructed at the bottom of the pit, a concrete pad is poured, or a factory reinforced concrete base slab is installed (if an excavator is used). At the same time, they must monitor the correctness of the work at the construction level.
2. 3–4 rings are placed on top of each other, reaching the top level. If necessary, the desired height can be achieved with several rows of brickwork.

   When installing large-diameter rings, you cannot do without lifting equipment

3. Using a hammer drill, holes are made in the concrete wall for sewer lines. We remind you that their size must ensure the integrity of the pipes during shrinkage.
4. If it is necessary to obtain a sealed structure, the joints of the rings are sealed with a solution, and after it dries, the outer surface is sealed using bitumen and other moisture-proof compounds, and the inner surface is plastered.

   The design of imported rings will ensure the required tightness immediately upon completion of installation

5. Install or make your own floor slab.

   When purchasing concrete rings, you can also purchase a finished floor. This will reduce construction time, but will lead to additional costs.

6. The structure is covered with a layer of soil.

Video: construction from concrete rings

Concrete pit made of monolithic reinforced concrete

A drainage well made of monolithic concrete provides excellent tightness and is one of the most reliable structures. Note that in this case it is better to dig the pit by hand. This will allow the sheathing to be installed on only one side and will reduce concrete consumption. Construction work is carried out in stages.

1. The bottom of the pit is leveled and compacted, after which a concrete screed at least 10 cm thick with internal reinforcement is made.
2. After the concrete has set, the side surfaces of the pit are covered with waterproofing material. This will avoid soil shedding during concrete work.

   Installation of armored belt and pouring the base

3. At a distance of at least 4 cm from the walls of the pit, a vertical reinforced belt is mounted and the formwork is installed. It should be said that a wall thickness of 15–20 cm will be sufficient for a pit of any size.
   If there are not enough boards for making sheathing, you can use sliding formwork.

   Design of adjustable (sliding formwork)

4. Mortgages are installed to create openings for installing sewer pipes.
5. When pouring concrete, be sure to bayonet or compact it. This will remove air bubbles from the mixture and increase the strength of the structure.

   A large pit will provide additional convenience during work, but will require the use of double-sided formwork

6. Sewage pipes are installed into the inlet openings and ventilation is installed.
7. Cover the top slab with soil and install a hatch.

   Covering the cesspool. Pay attention to the outlet of the ventilation riser - for sealed waste systems this is a necessity

Video: drainage pit made of reinforced concrete

DIY cesspool made from vehicle tires

Tires from heavy trucks and buses are used to make the waste pit. Considering the width of the wheels, at least 8–10 tires will be required. The pit can be dug either manually or with an excavator. It is better to make its diameter 20–30 cm larger than the external dimensions of the tires. This will make their installation easier and will make it possible to increase throughput absorbent system. In some sources you can find recommendations to remove the side surfaces of tires to increase the internal volume of the hole. We consider this statement to be incorrect, since it will make it difficult to install them on top of each other and reduce the strength of the structure. If we take into account that tire pits are used for absorbent systems, then it is easy to conclude that the area of ​​contact of the liquid with the ground has priority over the volume of the container.

At a certain height, a hole is cut in the tire for the drain pipe

According to the installation method, the option with tires is identical to the method using concrete rings. The only thing I would like to note is the possibility of installing 5-6 spacers between two adjacent tires, for which you can use red brick. The gaps between the wheels will allow the filtration pit to work more efficiently. For the same purpose, the gap between the tires and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble or brick fragments, after which a ceiling is installed on the pit and covered with soil.

The walls of the pit can be strengthened not with rubble or bricks, but with the remaining tires. Such a solution will also increase the absorption capacity of the sewer system

You can increase the absorption capacity of holes without pumping by installing a drainage pipe with a height of more than 1 m and a diameter of at least 20 cm, which is dug halfway into the ground. Holes with a diameter of no more than 5 cm are made in its hidden part. Of course, the best material It won't be metal, it'll be plastic.

Video: tire pit in a country house

Decoration of cesspool installation sites. Photo gallery

Thanks to the layer of soil that is used to cover the roof of the cesspool, it is not difficult to hide it from view. To do this, shrubs are planted above the sewer, a flower bed is arranged, or a lawn is sown. To decorate sewer hatches, wooden and stone elements are used, showing ingenuity and imagination. Perhaps you can glean from our photo gallery interesting idea or use it on your site ready-made solution.

Garden stand mounted on the pit cover Lawn Decorative elements in the form of wooden circles Such a hatch is completely invisible against the background of the lawn. Decoration natural materials Even a ventilation riser can be decorated gracefully and beautifully Aerobatics - use the place and create a real masterpiece of landscape design Installing an original shaped flowerpot with flowers Decoration with artificial stones Installation of decorative figures on the hatch - a mill, a well, a hearth

A huge variety of cesspool designs allows you to build a wastewater facility in full accordance with your needs and financial capabilities. Finally, I would like to remind you of the need to comply with sanitary standards and rules, especially as they relate to the danger of groundwater pollution. Let's take care of the cleanliness of the environment together, thinking about what will go to our children and grandchildren.

For the citizens, the problems of drainage and disposal of household waste are solved by municipal services, but adherents of free-living country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order the installation of a bulk septic tank or local treatment station on the site, then a summer resident can easily build a cesspool with his own hands from inexpensive or waste materials. It will cope with the important sanitary function perfectly, and will not require the allocation of too much money for arrangement.

The simplest and most cost-effective options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was a simple hole dug in the ground, the walls of which were coated with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers into the ground. Nowadays, such “reservoirs” for collecting and partially filtering wastewater are installed only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

A simple cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site a couple of days a week in summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes completely prohibited by sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanied by the imposition of administrative penalties.

Elementary cesspool: from the simplest container lined with boards for a toilet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner of a suburban area really doesn’t want to spend money on building a structure, and he has a certain amount of worn-out tires, this material can be put to good use. You just need to lay the tires in the dug pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is located outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire placed on top to connect the sewer pipeline. After digging around the homemade treatment plant filled with soil, a concrete slab with a hole for the ventilation pipe and a hatch for pumping is laid on top.

The owner of a N-number of worn-out tires can use them to build an excellent reservoir for collecting waste

Common types of structures

According to characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorption structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more technically complex installations with forced stimulation of the movement of wastewater inside and with biological and chemical treatment methods.

Violation of sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of a cesspool is unacceptable

Containers without bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the “people's” cesspool. Their characteristic– absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the wastewater, having undergone purification by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken brick and other “ingredients”, passes into the ground. The absorption option is considered the most economical; moreover, the construction of a pit of this type can easily be carried out by a contractor who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. Another saving: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, there is much less need to call sewer trucks.

Structural diagram of a cesspool without a bottom - wastewater is filtered through crushed stone

An absorbent type of pit is chosen if there is no need to drain a large amount of wastewater, if the country house does not have a jacuzzi, dishwashers and washing machines. The land will not be able to process and accept a large volume. In addition, the cleaning carried out cannot be classified as 100% effective procedures, which means that wastewater from an absorption pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste water tanks

Their name contains a direct hint indicating the main design feature. Essentially, these are closed containers made of water-tight concrete, brickwork, plastic, and gas silicate blocks that require constant emptying after filling. Sealed structures will ensure the complete absence of odors typical of wastewater, but will force the owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not suitable for building a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory-made plastic container in the ground to collect wastewater, connect a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call the vacuum cleaners to empty it.

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank would be to install a store-bought plastic container. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very compelling argument in favor: a plastic structure can be installed regardless of the close level of groundwater. There will be no harm to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with sewage; there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level; if the level exceeds the limit, the container should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are more complex structures that not only perform deep cleaning, but also process wastewater into fertilizer valuable for gardeners. Most often, they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical purification occurs, and in subsequent chambers specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with an overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for economic and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the area. But in order to make a septic tank with an overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The operating principle of a three-chamber septic tank is based on multi-stage wastewater treatment: in the first tank, the collected wastewater is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers finer purification is performed

If you don’t mind the effort, but it’s too much financial resources is not observed, you can again resort to worn-out car tires. In the sense of “bald”, but not worn-out tires. Moreover, the owner will save money not only through waste building materials. To install a septic tank made from tires, you do not need a powerful concrete foundation, just a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a thickness of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed.

• To increase the volume of the created reservoir, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
• A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made of tires; its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same size of tires. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of tire rubber.
• The bottom of the pipe is filled with concrete to form a monolithic concrete cylinder.

At the top you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Design of a cesspool with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

• The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

Let's consider the stages of installation of several design options.

Absorbing

Owners of small country estates who decide to make a basic sewer system with their own hands most often choose this option. The simplest design and the ability to not resort to the services of sewer trucks too often are attractive. The walls can be made of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by placing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of brick, and it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but to install them you will need a crane

Sealed

The construction principle is similar, only there is no need to form holes for the infiltration of treated wastewater and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. To prevent the reinforcement from “drowning” in the concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and secured on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. A cheap option for internal insulation is bitumen; the outside of a homemade sewerage facility can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom, the walls can be built from concrete rings, lined with brick or gas silicate blocks, or a monolithic container can be made by pouring concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than installing concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, a concrete screed is arranged, and bricks can be laid either in a circle or by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “mature” before starting masonry, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the masonry period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply sewer pipe. The connection point is located below the freezing level recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of wastewater

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything simpler and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the average consumer in mind. That is, find required kit It's not difficult at all.

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of design that meets your needs. Which costs are more important, what is best to save on, is up to the owner and contractor to choose, and knowledge of the design differences will help make the right decision.

If you are organizing your own plot and home, it is important to consider how to create a cesspool with your own hands. It is a reservoir where waste enters. There are several varieties, different materials are used. In budget options, long-used car tires are used. Modern septic tanks are also used.

The choice depends on the budget, the characteristics of the soil and the frequency of living in the house. It is much easier if you live in a country house only during the warm season. If this is year-round permanent housing, you need to correctly count on heavy loads.

Types of cesspools and their choice

Cesspools are of the following types:

Which option should I choose? For rare use, choose a hole from the bottom if the soil allows. Sealed tanks avoid unpleasant odors and contamination, but they are expensive to maintain and will require monthly (and in the case of dishwashers and hot tubs, weekly) cleaning. The septic tank is environmentally friendly and has no special contraindications. Having decided, we move on to studying the technology of creating cesspools.

We take into account the rules and regulations of the arrangement

To achieve a certain level of security, you need to think through all the nuances. Otherwise, there is a risk of creating a threat to the landscape, the structure of a private house, and the health of residents. The following important points are taken into account:

• The well with water must be at least 30 m from the pit. The level of the pit should be lower. This avoids problems with drinking water contamination.
• If there is a large amount of waste, it is not allowed to make a hole without a bottom. The limit established by the standards is 1 cubic meter of waste per day.
• The pit should be in a place where a sewer truck can easily drive up. The distance should be closer than 4 m. Depth - no more than 3 m, otherwise the hose will not be enough to pick up all the waste.
• It is necessary to achieve optimal tightness of closing the lid. Especially important for winter period. It is recommended to use insulation.

Compliance with government sanitary standards will avoid serious problems. Made independently, the cesspool should not harm the soil, have leaks in inappropriate places, or have an unpleasant odor.

Eternal cesspool: creation technology

There is a technology for an eternal cesspool. Durability of use is achieved by special arrangement of the pit. In accordance with the technology, it is made without a bottom. It is sprinkled with medium-sized gravel. You need to take care of creating such a pit in advance. The overflow is connected to the sewerage system. The “eternity” of such cesspools is determined by the selected materials. The purified liquid goes into the ground through a crushed stone sand filter. Residues are processed by microorganisms. This is an environmentally friendly and effective way.

Making blocks from tires - the simplest option

Used car tires are used in the sewer system and the creation of cesspools, eliminating various types of costs. A cesspool in a private house is made with your own hands according to the following scheme:

• digging a pit;
• tires are connected to each other using waterproof glue;
• joints are completely sealed;
• the bottom is not made, instead the above filter is created.

Creating a pit with concrete rings

Let's figure out how to make a cesspool in a private house. To create a sewer system, effort will be required, but the option with a simple absorption pit (with concrete rings) is the easiest and is often used in dachas. You can build a cesspool according to this scheme:

• Concrete rings are purchased in the amount of 3 pieces;
• a pit is dug with a depth not exceeding 3 m, the diameter is 80 cm greater than that of reinforced concrete rings;
• the central axis must remain free, a concrete screed is made around the perimeter (base for the rings);
• holes are drilled in the lower ring: the diameter of each is 5 cm, made 10 cm apart;
• the bottom is filled with a filtering composition of crushed stone, sand, gravel, broken brick - about 1 meter;
• the outside of the pit is filled with the same composition;
• a plate with two holes is installed - for the pipe and the hatch, through which pumping will be carried out.

There is another scheme: creating tank walls from brick or gas silicate blocks. But this will require a lot of effort. A concrete sewer pit requires a crane to install concrete rings. The choice is yours. Another option: a cesspool in a country house is made using metal barrels. Service life reaches 60 years.

How to create an airtight structure?

To create airtight conditions, the same steps are performed, but there is no need to make holes in the bottom. On the contrary, it needs to be concreted and strengthened. A concrete mesh is laid on the bottom in advance. The walls are sealed inside with bitumen, and outside are coated with clay. The same is done in the case when the walls are made of brick. They can be plastered.

Please note: before you build a hole, do not forget about the hole that serves to connect the sewer pipe. It is done below the freezing level, which is determined by the weather service. To do this you need to make inquiries. The supply pipeline must be inclined so that the waste moves towards the constructed pit naturally.

Ready tanks

Does installing a cesspool in a private house seem like a difficult task for you? It can be simplified by using ordinary wastewater tanks. Then all that remains is to install the pipeline at an angle and dig a pit. Order a ready-made tank, it is buried in the ground. If necessary, it is strengthened; a concrete base is used for cesspools.

A few words about the features of the process

Cesspools take about a week to dig if you do it yourself. Excavation work may take longer. The walls should be smooth, the foundation pit itself should be square or rectangular. The area around the tank helps provide additional protection from groundwater. Before making a cesspool correctly, it is important to take care of the pipeline. Trees must not be in the way.

Let's sum it up

We examined several options for sewerage installations for a private home. There are many options for arranging a cesspool; there are expensive multi-chamber septic tanks with a powerful cleaning system. The basic scheme is the same: you need to prepare for heavy excavation work and dig a pit - then half the battle is done. You need to be patient, and then you will understand that you can make a hole on your own!