Changing engine oil: useful tips. If you don’t know how, don’t do it: how to change engine oil correctly What is needed to change engine oil

It is impossible to overestimate the importance of high-quality motor oil for a car engine. Motor oil provides effective lubrication of the rubbing surfaces of moving engine elements, constantly cleans the combustion chamber of soot and deposits, and removes and redistributes excess heat from the engine body and adjacent elements. As it is used, any motor oil loses some of its properties, which modern cars can be really dangerous. Today, even a car enthusiast who is far from technical details understands that the engine oil needs to be changed regularly. Where to change the oil and which oil change method to choose? Let's try to figure it out.

First of all, you need to measure the oil level in the engine and determine whether there is a need to top up.

1. For a reliable assessment, you must park the car on a level area. If the machine is on a slope, the measurement will be incorrect.
2. Wait until your car's engine cools down. If the car manufacturer recommends measuring on a cold engine, it is best to check the oil level in the morning before driving. If necessary hot engine, then the measurement is performed a short time after stopping.
3. Using the dipstick, assess the engine oil level.
4. Evaluate the result. The normal oil level should be between the min and max marks on the dipstick. If the oil level is below the minimum level, add oil. An amount of oil that exceeds the norm is also fraught with consequences for the engine, therefore, if necessary, the oil will need to be drained to the norm.
5. Finally, it is necessary to evaluate the oil for metal inclusions, carbon deposits, and the presence of a burning smell. All these are very serious signs that require immediate contact to a service center.

Oil change methods.

Currently, there are two ways to change engine oil: classic and hardware (vacuum, express change).

With the classic method the car is driven onto an overpass or placed on a lift, where it becomes possible to change the engine oil through direct access to the drain hole in the oil pan. The engine must be warmed up to operating temperature to make the oil less viscous, draining the oil will be more effective in this case. The crankcase protection is removed (if equipped), the cap on the oil filler neck is unscrewed, and the plug from the hole in the crankcase pan and the oil is drained into a previously prepared container (you can use any container of a suitable size, for example, a five-liter plastic bottle with the neck cut off). The amount of drained used oil is compared with reference values ​​for a specific vehicle engine. Typically, such information is indicated in the documentation of the machine manufacturer. This allows you to find out how much used oil has been drained.

Of course, when changing engine oil, you should not forget about replacing the oil filter, otherwise wear and carbon deposits will get into the new oil, and the oil change procedure will be useless. Next, a new portion of engine oil is poured into the engine. The volume of oil added must comply with the engine manufacturer's recommendations.

Today, it is becoming increasingly popular among car owners. hardware express oil change. Such work is usually carried out in specialized centers, where it becomes possible to change the oil through the hole for the oil dipstick using special pneumatic installations to collect oil. Typically, these units remove used oil through vacuum. They have various probes (flexible and metal), adapters for various brands of engines, and are equipped with transparent pre-chambers to determine the quality and quantity of the oil being replaced.

When changing engine oil manually, the engine must be warmed up to operating condition. A flexible tube is inserted into the hole for the oil dipstick, which is directed all the way into the crankcase pan to eliminate any residual waste oil in the pan. Then, due to the difference in pressure, the oil is pumped into a special oil collector for subsequent disposal. After which the oil filter is changed and new oil is added.

Which oil change method should I choose?

Any of the oil change methods has its pros and cons.

There is an opinion that the classic oil change method allows you to drain a larger amount of used oil and, especially, sediment from metal inclusions, soot and dirt from low-quality fuel than with the hardware replacement method. This statement is unfounded, due to serious design differences between cars from different manufacturers. On a number of modern cars, a classic oil change can be completely eliminated or be extremely labor-intensive.

Unconditional advantage of the classical method Changing the oil can be considered an opportunity to assess the condition of the chassis and underbody of the car during an oil change, due to the fact that the car is on a lift or on an overpass. Many motorists thus carry out complete maintenance during a visit to a mechanic. Another plus is that you can change the engine oil using the classic method. on one's own, since the use of special equipment is not required. It is enough to have a garage with an inspection hole, a minimum set of keys and a reserve of time. Despite the relative accessibility of the procedure, most car owners prefer to perform a classic oil change at stations Maintenance.

Automatic oil change in the engine requires more serious technical equipment, and therefore can only be performed in a car service center by qualified specialists. This method allows you to save not only time (the procedure takes only 15-20 minutes), but also money. Many car owners give absolute preference to this method, comparing how much it costs to change the oil using the classical and vacuum methods, since the cost of work is often lower than when changing the oil using the classical method (especially if for the classical replacement it is necessary to carry out additional work on the installation and dismantling of elements , obstructing access).

Let's summarize the above. When changing engine oil, you need to approach subjective to each car and him technical specifications. Regardless of the oil change method you choose, the qualifications of the specialist performing the work are also essential. Therefore, when making a decision, where to change engine oil, consider a number of important parameters. The service station performing the work must be staffed with both qualified specialists and professional equipment. And if you are planning to purchase oil at a service station, then, of course, you should be provided with all Required documents, confirming the quality of the offered oil.

Any car engine uses several working fluids that perform specific tasks. One such liquid is oil.

Lubrication performs several functions in the power plant:

1. reduces friction between engine components;
2. removes heat from them;
3. and also washes engine parts, thereby removing debris and wear products from working surfaces, on which the life of the engine directly depends.

Oil is a rather complex liquid in composition, consisting of a mineral or synthetic base, a mixture of them (the so-called semi synthetic oils), as well as a package of additives that give the lubricant certain properties.

During operation, the oil gradually exhausts its resource and loses its properties. And since this fluid plays an important role, it requires periodic replacement.

Official dealers, who carry out maintenance under warranty, change the oil at every maintenance prescribed in the regulations.

But not everyone’s car is serviced at official service stations, so car owners have to independently monitor the condition of the engine and change the oil after a certain period of use of the car.

Oil change intervals

The frequency of oil changes is indicated in the accompanying technical documentation. vehicle documentation. The lubricant recommended for use is also indicated there.

The service life of the oil depends on the composition and operating characteristics of the car. So, mineral oil can work up to 10 thousand km, and after that it must be replaced. But this type of oil is practically not used; either semi-synthetic or synthetic oil is poured into the car. These types of oils can already work up to 15 thousand km.

But there is one important feature. Long mileage when changing oil is possible if the car is operated in “greenhouse” conditions. That is, the operating conditions of the lubricant must be almost ideal, which in reality is very rare. Temperature changes, increased loads, driving without warming up, and downtime in traffic jams affect the lubricant, which reduces its service life. Under normal operating conditions, the engine oil should be changed every 10-12 thousand km, but if the car is subjected to harsh operating conditions, then the frequency is reduced to 5-7 thousand km.

If the oil is not changed, it will gradually lose its quality - the rubbing surfaces will be insufficiently lubricated, which will lead to rapid wear of the components.

What work will be required?

Changing the engine oil is one of the most frequently performed engine maintenance operations. It is not complicated, even a novice car owner can do it on their own. It doesn't take much to do it:

• open-end wrenches;
• special key for unscrewing oil filter;
• container for collecting waste;
• new oil;
• oil filter;
• funnel (cut neck plastic bottle);
• rags.

When switching to another type of lubricant, it is recommended to additionally flush the engine. Also, this operation is performed during the first oil change on a car purchased second-hand, because it is not known for certain what oil the previous owner used.

Therefore, let’s look at how to change the oil using an example Chevrolet Lanos.

Step-by-step instruction

Having prepared necessary tools and accessories, you can get to work. For this:

1. Warm up the engine to the optimal temperature for 10 minutes. You can also change the oil immediately after a trip, but the engine needs time to cool, otherwise you may get burned. It is necessary to warm up the car so that the oil “lifts” all the settled contaminants and also becomes more liquid.

2. We place the car on the inspection hole to make it easier to get to the traffic jam. You can, of course, do without a hole, but access to the drain plug will not be very convenient.

3. Remove the cap from the oil filler neck. This will ensure faster drainage of the lubricant. If this is not done, the oil will flow out slowly because a vacuum will form inside the engine, since air will not penetrate inside the engine.

4. Wipe the drain plug and the adjacent surfaces of the pan with a rag.

5. Take a container to collect waste (it can be an old oil canister with the side cut out) and place it under the drain plug.

6. Use a wrench to remove the drain plug (clockwise). Once broken, the plug can be unscrewed easily even by hand. When unscrewing, we hold it, because when completely unscrewed, the pressure of the oil can knock it out of your hand, and then you will have to “catch” it from working off.

7. Let the oil drain and go into the engine compartment. Use a special wrench to remove and change the oil filter.

8. If there is no such key, you can pierce the filter housing with a screwdriver, push it in until it stops, and then use the screwdriver as a lever. You also need to unscrew the filter clockwise. The oil filter is located either on the front or rear wall of the cylinder block.

9. Take a new filter element and lubricate the filter O-ring with clean oil.

10. Place the filter in place and tighten it. You don't need a key for this; hand tightening is enough.

11. After replacing and installing the filter, see if oil leaks out. If it continues to drain, wait until this process stops. We change the sealing gasket on the drain plug (if required) and put it in place. The force for tightening the plug should be medium. You don't need to tighten it too much, otherwise you might strip the threads.

12. After draining, we begin pouring.

In those. documentation we find out the amount of oil that should be in the engine. For example, it is indicated that 4.7 liters are poured into the engine. Knowing this, we carry out the filling, and we do it in several stages. First, use a funnel installed in the oil filler neck to fill in approximately 3.5 liters.

We wait until the oil has completely dropped into the pan, then check the level with a dipstick. If there is not enough oil, then add another 0.5 liter, wait and check the level. Usually, a little less lubricant will enter the engine than indicated in the documentation, because all the oil will not drain from the engine, some of it will remain. It is important to ensure that the oil level is located between the “Min” and “Max” marks on the dipstick; it is possible that it is closer to “Max”, but does not reach it.

1. Completely fill the lubricant, replace the filler cap and start the engine so that the oil flows through the channels of the system.
2. After the first trip after the shift, you should check the level, and also inspect the plug and filter for leaks.
3. Now one moment. If you haven’t added enough oil, it’s okay, you can bring it up to the level. But it happens that it is overfilled, and its level is higher than “Max”. The machine cannot be operated at this level, as this will lead to squeezing out the crankshaft oil seals.

To restore the level within the required limits, use a regular medical syringe (20 ml) and a dropper tube. We put this tube on the syringe. We lower the end of the dropper into the pan through the hole for the dipstick and pump out the oil. This operation is tedious, since the lubricant is pumped out slowly, and you may need to pull out more than one syringe to achieve the required level. But you don’t need to unscrew the plug, completely drain the oil and refill it again.

How to change oil with engine flushing

As for replacing the lubricant with flushing the engine, it is carried out in approximately the same way as described, but you will have to perform some additional steps. Also, replacement will require a special flushing fluid.

If the oil is changed with washing, then there is no need to immediately remove the used filter. After draining the waste, we put the drain plug in place, and there is no need to change the gasket on it. Then fill the engine with flushing fluid. The amount of oil required for flushing is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

After refueling with flushing, start the engine and let it run for a while (5-15 minutes). We turn off the engine, take another container for collection and drain the flushing liquid from the installation (it is drained in the same way as the waste).

And only after washing, we change the filter and plug gasket, fill in new oil, doing this as described above.

That’s the whole sequence of changing the engine oil and the procedure is suitable for any car.

Video: Changing engine oil.

Seal

Each owner vehicle, wants operation to be accompanied by as few breakdowns as possible. The fulfillment of this condition is directly related to the care of the components and mechanisms of the unit. Therefore, the first thing a user encounters when purchasing a car is periodically changing the engine oil.

Today no one questions the need for the procedure. The only thing that is controversial is the nuances associated with the frequency and method of work, as well as the characteristics of the materials used. So that changing the engine oil is not perceived by the car enthusiast as an insurmountable problem, let’s try to understand the details and prioritize in places.

Tasks of engine oil

Design features and operating principle of the engine internal combustion lead to the fact that the parts of the unit constantly interact with each other, the process is accompanied by friction. The forces acting on the mechanism gradually wear out and render the motor unusable. Besides, by-effect friction, strong heating of parts, which leads to a physical change in the properties of the materials that make up the engine, and also further aggravates the flow of work processes.

Not a single design of a power plant using the principle of internal combustion can do without lubrication. Oil is a consumable material of the mechanism. The liquid has a number of properties, the most important of which is viscosity; the material creates a surface film on the parts and protects the motor. If it were not for the lubrication mechanism, the engine would not be able to function and perform as intended.

Oil functions:

• Formation of a surface protective film on internal engine parts;
• Protection of coated engine surfaces from oxidation;
• Removal of impurities and slag from the rubbing surfaces of the engine to the filter element;
• Removal of excess heat from heated engine surfaces;
• Sealing connections of engine parts and components;
• Energy transmission and transformation.

In modern engines, the hydraulic valve compensator is the first mechanism to fail due to dirty oil. There is no need to talk about what role the part plays in the operation of the motor, however, oil is the main reason for the failure of the device.

The meaning and frequency of replacement

Before you begin the replacement process, you need to clearly define why this is being done. Considering the functions performed by oil, the engine’s need for this fluid is understandable. However, microscopic particles that accumulate in the motor do not disappear anywhere. Over time, the filter element that traps dirt and sediment becomes full. The particles are distributed throughout the lubrication system and act as an abrasive, leading to even greater wear. For this reason, correct replacement Oil maintenance in the engine involves observing the frequency, using oil according to the established standard, and also replacing the filter element.

The frequency of oil changes is directly related to the type and design power unit. Only the manufacturer can give the correct answer; for this, read the instructions for the product. According to the standard, the terms are set based on the mileage of the car. For most internal combustion engines we are talking about 7000-10000 kilometers.

It is worth considering that the condition of the lubricant is influenced by many factors. Thus, changing the oil in a diesel engine is carried out earlier than in a gasoline unit. This is due to design features motor, high thermal and power loads, and, as a consequence, early wear of the installation. In addition to the load, the speed limit, the type of oil used (mineral lubricant base loses its properties faster than synthetic base), climatic conditions, transportation of heavy loads and other parameters are taken into account.

Self-replacement

Changing engine oil is not a complicated process; if desired, each car owner can perform the procedure with his own hands, saving money on service. Provided that the deadline for the work has come, there is time, place and optional equipment, the operation involves the following actions:

• Read the engine instructions; each engine model has its own sequence of operations. The need to use tools (pullers, screwdrivers, etc.), as well as various methods of fixing elements, will affect the speed of the process.
• Prepare the tools and materials necessary for replacement (oil, filter, screwdrivers, waste container, wipes and other auxiliary equipment) depending on the engine model and design.
• Place the car on a level surface in such a way as to provide access to the engine sump. It is better to use an overpass, a garage with a pit, or a lift. If this is not the case, use a bump, or lift the car with a jack, placing each wheel on a stable support.

• Warm up the engine to operating temperature before draining the oil. After warming up, unscrew the nut in the oil pan, open the oil filler cap and remove the filter element.
• Wait until the waste flows into the prepared container.

• Based on the consistency of the used oil, determine the degree of engine wear, and also draw a conclusion about the performance of the type of oil.
• Based on the condition of the used oil, decide whether to use flushing or not.

• Install a new filter element; before fastening the part, lubricate the rubber seal with oil. This will allow the filter to be securely in place and help create the necessary pressure in the system.

• Fill the system with fresh oil through the lubricant filler neck to the required level. Check the level using a dipstick, making sure that the oil does not go beyond the “minimum” and “maximum” marks.

• After filling in the new fluid, start the car and make sure that the lubricant pressure light goes out. Then let the engine run for ten minutes, turn off and check the level again. If necessary, add oil. During this period, check for oil leakage through the seals.

• After the car has traveled twenty kilometers, check the leaks and oil level again. If there are any shortcomings, correct the problem.

Engine flushing

Sometimes, when changing the oil, the vehicle owner decides to use engine flushing fluid. You must use this product carefully, after reading the instructions and making sure that there is no other way out. Violation of the rules of use and operation can lead to expensive repairs of the unit.

• Purchasing a used car. New owner I’m not sure what kind of oil was used for the engine and I’m afraid that the lubricant he purchased is not compatible with the substance that was previously filled.
• Switching from one type of oil to another, for example, after using a mineral-based oil, a synthetic product will be added.
• Change of oil manufacturer. In this case, we are talking about the risk of incompatibility of the additive package in the liquids used.
• Operation in difficult conditions, failure to comply with the regulations for working with the engine, contamination of the oil channels.
• Fuel or cooling liquid getting into the lubricant due to engine malfunction.

The listed reasons are a reason for using flushing fluids, however, if there are no serious prerequisites for using the substances, it is better not to risk it and limit yourself to a classic lubricant change.

The flushing procedure depends on which liquid option is selected:

• Flushing oil. Today, the wash group is rare. The application is reduced to draining the used oil, filling in the flushing oil and operating the engine for two, three days in a gentle mode on this substance. After which the flush is drained and standard oil is added.

• Additive to mining. The liquid is sold in the form of a 200-300 gram concentrate, which is added to diesel or gasoline engine before draining. Or in the form of a flush, which is poured after draining the waste. After entering the engine, the unit is allowed to run for fifteen or twenty minutes, the waste is drained and fresh oil is added.
• "Five minutes." The cleaner is presented in the form of a concentrate, which is poured before draining the waste and the engine is allowed to run for five minutes. After which the oil is drained, along with the cleaner, and fresh lubricant is added.

Considering that the cleaners contain alkali in large quantities, when using rinses, be prepared for the consequences associated with the impact on engine rubber products. The seals often suffer, the product hardens and cracks. In addition, a sharp impact on accumulated deposits tears them off and forces them to migrate through the lubrication system, clogging the oil receiver, filter, and oil channels.

Alternative replacement methods

Obviously, changing engine oil is not difficult. The only problem the user faces when doing the work themselves is access to the engine compartment. We solve this issue, install the machine on blocks or bricks, fix it with a jack, the main thing is to ensure access to the drain plug.

It is worth noting that in addition to the traditional oil change using the drain method, there are other ways to maintain a car. For example, express engine oil change. The principle is that the lubricant is not removed from the pan by draining, but is removed from there through the dipstick hole. For self-replacement, use a syringe to pump out the oil. Before the procedure, the engine is warmed up, after which a tube is inserted into the hole and the oil is pumped out, creating a vacuum in the pan.

The replacement method is not effective; it is recommended to use it in case of emergency. A vacuum oil change in the engine does not ensure complete cleaning of the installation from impurities and suspensions, so further operation of the unit is associated with the risk of failure of parts and mechanisms.

Today, at car service stations, you can find an oil change service using special devices. This is the so-called hardware oil change in the engine. There are many conflicting opinions about this method. As a rule, car enthusiasts compare it with the garage method of extracting oil through a dipstick, but there is a difference.

When removing oil from the engine cavity using a hardware method, a special installation is used. The engine is warmed up to operating temperature. In the case when a syringe is used, the engine oil was changed through a dipstick; this method involves pumping out liquid through the filler neck. A special tube is inserted, a pressure difference is created and the entire volume of oil, along with impurities and dirt, is removed from the tank.

Nozzles, tubes, devices are provided. This provides a complete guarantee that any type of unit can be serviced. However, it is worth noting that the engine design of some manufacturers does not provide for hardware replacement (for example, Subaru). For these engines, the operating instructions only specify the classic oil drain. That is why, before servicing the installation, read the technical documentation provided by the developer.

Note that the traditional method is more correct and effective method replacements. Application removes impurities in full. In the case of the hardware method, it is recommended to reduce the intervals between replacements and carry out the procedure more often. Some auto mechanics recommend alternating these two methods, achieving maximum optimization through the use of different technologies.

It is well known that changing the oil in a car engine is a regular and mandatory procedure. Not only the proper operation, but also the overall performance of any power unit directly depends on the correct selection and timely replacement of lubricant. Note that the condition of the engine oil is strongly influenced by a number of factors: the quality of the lubricant and the fuel being poured, the serviceability of the engine, the individual characteristics of the operation of a particular vehicle, etc.

In the CIS, it is strongly recommended to change engine oil every 10 thousand kilometers traveled. This statement is true for both gasoline and diesel engine. In motors or units that are constantly exposed to harsh operating conditions, it is recommended to further reduce the specified replacement interval by 20-40%. Given the importance of the lubricant change procedure, in this article we will look at how to properly change the engine oil yourself.

Read in this article

What is needed to change the engine oil

The process of changing engine oil is not a complicated procedure, especially if you do not additionally plan to flush the engine before such a change. If you decide to service your car yourself, but don’t know how to change the engine oil yourself, you will need to fulfill a number of simple conditions:

1. You need to park the car on a level surface and have free access to the lower part of the engine (sump). For these purposes, a garage with a pit is best suited. You can also use an overpass or a lift.
2. Next, you need to prepare a container for draining the waste. The volume of such a container will depend on the amount of lubricant in a particular engine.
3. The next step is to warm up the engine to operating temperature, after which you need to unscrew the oil filler cap, remove the oil filter and unscrew the drain plug in the oil pan.
4. As for removing the filter element, many people use a special oil filter wrench to unscrew it and then install it. You should also take into account in advance that in most cases, to drain the lubricant, you will need to remove the engine crankcase protection (if equipped). For this reason, you should prepare additional tools in advance.
5. After unscrewing the drain plug, it is necessary to allow the used lubricant to flow out as much as possible through the drain hole. At the same time, you can assess the condition and degree of contamination, which may be the reason for making a decision to change the type or manufacturer of the lubricant, additional flushing of the lubrication system, etc.

   At the end of draining, it is recommended to splash about 0.5 or 1.0 liters of fresh oil, which will wash away the residue, after which you can screw the drain plug into the pan with the recommended force, in parallel taking into account that the plug may also have an O-ring. On some vehicles, it is optimal to change the indicated ring at each replacement.

6. Now you can install the new oil filter. Before installing it, you need to pour some fresh lubricant inside the filter. This is necessary in order to saturate the filter element with oil. It is also recommended to lubricate the rubber seal on the oil filter with the same oil. These operations allow you to quickly increase the pressure in the lubrication system during the first start (the engine will run dry less, the oil pressure light will go out sooner), and will also ensure a reliable fit of the filter at the point of contact with the sealing rubber.
7. The final step is to fill in fresh lubricant through the oil filler neck in the volume required for this type of engine. The oil level must be monitored by the marks on the dipstick. The optimal indicator is considered to be between the “min” and “max” marks. It is best to immediately fill not the entire recommended volume, but a little less, and then allow the lubricant to spread for some time (5-10 minutes) over the surfaces inside the engine and drain into the sump. Then the level is checked and then the lubricant is added to the required level. This approach avoids overflow of lubricant into the engine and saves the owner from additional operations to remove excess lubricant from the internal combustion engine.
8. After filling, you must tighten the oil filler cap. The routine oil change procedure is considered complete and the engine can be started. After starting, it should go out after a short period of time. The engine is allowed to run for idle speed, at the same time inspecting the installation site of the drain plug and oil filter for possible oil leaks. If everything is in order, then your car is ready for further use.
9. Also, the oil level should be checked after several kilometers of driving, and it is also advisable to re-inspect the plug and oil filter. The fact is that driving at medium and high speeds means that the pressure working fluid(lubrication) increases. In other words, possible leaks or filter defects may appear precisely under such conditions, and not at idle.

To figure out how to change the oil with an engine flush, you need to clearly understand what kind of flushing agent you intend to use. Among the most common options are:

How to change the oil in an engine without a pit

Let's start with the fact that there are several ways to change the oil without a pit. Note that changing the engine oil in the traditional way (that is, by draining the lubricant) under such conditions is quite possible. The main difficulty is that access to the drain plug will be very difficult.

In such a situation, most car enthusiasts use a jack, some put the car on blocks or bricks. After jacking up or fixing the raised car in another way, you need to place a flat container under the drain hole to drain the waste, after which you can unscrew the drain plug.

To make the task easier, you can also look for a section of the road where there is a relatively deep rut (for example, country roads). The driver remains to lie under the front of the car and perform all the necessary manipulations. Taking into account the fact that the car may not be on a level surface, some drivers jack up first one side and then the other while draining the oil. Others advise additionally inserting a strip of clean cloth into the drain hole, along which the remaining oil from the pan will drain more efficiently. The main thing is not to forget to remove the tissue later.

Another method is the so-called “express change” of engine oil. The essence of this operation is that the lubricant does not pour out of the pan, but is pumped out of it through the hole for the oil dipstick. To remove waste, you can use special equipment for vacuum pumping or use a regular syringe for pumping out oil.

It is worth noting that this method, provided that special equipment is available, is less effective compared to the traditional replacement, and in the case of a syringe it is considered a completely necessary measure. For this reason, experienced drivers and auto mechanics strongly advise against frequently using the express oil change service. Vacuum replacement means that a larger amount of used oil remains in the engine compared to replacement by draining through the drain hole in the pan. As a result, old oil is mixed in large quantities with fresh lubricant, shortening its service life and impairing its useful properties.

Moreover, the risk increases if the type of lubricant and/or manufacturer is changed, flushing compounds are used before replacement, etc. If you used an express oil change service or carried out this procedure yourself, then the service interval should be reduced by 3-5 thousand kilometers traveled. Subsequent replacement is necessary mandatory carried out in the traditional way.

Let's sum it up

The decision to change the engine oil on time (every 10 thousand km) or even to make such a change a little ahead of schedule is the key to cleanliness and proper operation of the power unit. This is true provided that such actions are performed regularly, and also if the driver uses the same oil. This operation means that there is no need to additionally flush the engine before replacement.

Let us add that if the replacement period is approaching and you decide to change the type of oil, but there is no possibility or conditions to carry out flushing and replacement efficiently, then it is better to delay such a transition. In other words, it is optimal to change the oil in the field to a similar one without flushing the engine, and then skillfully carry out the next change and other manipulations in a garage or service center.

Read also

Types and principle of operation of flushing liquids. In what cases is it necessary to flush the engine? When you should not use an engine flush before changing the oil.

If the car has a problem Motorbor

If the car The engine has broken down and you need it complete replacement? This is a whole problem but not as you think. We recommend purchasing an engine with attachments from one of best internet contract engine stores \"Motorbor\" Well, in order to have fewer such troubles, we will tell you in our article how to properly change the engine oil.

How to change engine oil

The process of changing engine oil is simple. If you don’t want to turn to professionals for such a trifle, you can try to do it yourself.

First you need to buy the right oil. It is better to buy oil in a company store, where the quality will be guaranteed and, if necessary, the seller will be able to give advice. It is advisable to purchase high-quality oil from well-known brands.

Change of oil on our own carried out as follows:

Before starting, you will need to drive the car into a pit or place it on an overpass.

Prepare equipment in advance: a bucket for draining old oil, spanners, rags, gloves.

To increase oil fluidity, it is necessary to warm up the engine. After warming up, wait a few minutes, otherwise you may get burned when draining the oil. Having climbed into the hole, we inspect the bottom of the car. It may be necessary to remove the engine protection. Then we find the required cover on the engine crankcase and carefully unscrew it first with a key, then with our hands, keeping the bucket ready.

On some car brands, the drain occurs at an angle, so the flow of oil can get on clothes.Draining occurs quickly, about five minutes, after which a little old oil remains in the engine, this is acceptable.

Replacing the oil filter

Simultaneously with changing the oil, it is necessary to change the oil filter. If the filter is not changed, it will become clogged and stop working, and oil will pass through the bypass valve without cleaning, which will lead to additional wear on the engine.

Different car models have filters located in different places. It is advisable to study the manual for your car in advance. Usually, hand-force is sufficient to remove the oil filter, but a special wrench may be required.

The filter cover is twisted off and the old filter is removed. The installed filter must be saturated; to do this, you need to fill it halfway with oil, and also do not forget to lubricate the rubber band on the filter body with oil.

Install the filter and screw the lid tightly.

Filling with new oil

Screw on the crankcase cover. You can start adding oil. When filling, monitor the oil level in the crankcase. The oil level on the dipstick should be between the upper and lower marks.

In total, about 80% of the oil in the canister is consumed for filling; the rest is left in case it is necessary to add oil during the operation of the car.

Start the engine, warm it up, make sure there are no oil leaks, then reinstall the engine protection if it needed to be removed.

What is the frequency of engine oil changes?

Modern synthetic oils can retain their properties for a very long time. It is usually recommended to change the oil at intervals of 10-15 thousand kilometers.

However, replacement intervals are reduced by 25-30% when exposed to unfavorable factors, such as: engine operation with overloads, strong and repeated temperature changes, increased dust or air humidity.