How a cesspool is arranged. Do-it-yourself cesspool without pumping

The answer to this question can be found in the SNiP, which regulates many issues, including this one. In accordance with the norms, the cesspool should be located at a distance of 12 meters (preferably more than 20 m) from the dwelling. As for the fences, they should be separated from the pit by at least 1 meter.

When constructing a pit without a bottom, it must be taken into account that there should be no wells, springs and other sources of fresh water within a radius of 30 meters from it.

There are some nuances. For example, when choosing a place, the need for periodic cleaning of the tank should be taken into account, so that the entrance for the sewer truck should be free. In addition, the location of the pit at the bottom of the site is unacceptable, because in the spring it will be flooded with melt water.

Capacity and shape of the cesspool

There are no restrictions regarding the shape of the pit. It can be round, rectangular, square and so on.

As for capacity, some factors should be taken into account during its determination:

• The number of residents - it is estimated that for a month of living in a house, a family of 3 people is able to produce about 12 m³ of waste. Therefore, the pit must contain at least 18 m³ of sewage.
• Depth - the recommended indicator - no more than 2.5 meters. The fact is that if this limit is exceeded, it is guaranteed that there will be difficulties with cleaning, since not all pumps are able to clean up drains from great depths.
• Soil - its type is also decisive for calculating the dimensions. Indeed, in the case of digging a hole in clay soil that does not absorb moisture well, you should dig a hole with a margin that should be at least a little more than the monthly norm.

Work procedure

The construction of a cesspool should begin with the choice of material for the walls. There are many types of cesspools: brick, from concrete rings, temporary, solid, from tires, sheathed with wood and others. As for the bottom, it can be both capital (made of concrete) and natural.

Of all this diversity, brick pits with a capital bottom were most widely used during construction with their own hands. In terms of price and quality, they have practically no rivals. The fact is that the concrete bottom will save you from many problems during cleaning, and the brickwork (in a checkerboard pattern) will not prevent the liquid from soaking into the soil.

Materials and tools

You will need the following building materials:

• Sand;
• Cement;
• Concrete;
• Brick or cinder block;
• Fittings.

If the sewers are clogged, then you can use chemical cleaning agents, but if they do not help, then there remains only mechanical cleaning with the help of a plumbing cable. You can find out what it is and how to use it.

Concrete is mixed from crushed stone, sand and cement in a ratio of 6:4:1. As for water, its volume will be determined as it is kneaded. You can calculate the amount of brick needed by dividing the height of the wall by the height of the brick (do not forget about the seams - about 5-6 mm). This will give the number of rows, which must be multiplied by the number of bricks in the row.

The use of a cinder block in construction will significantly reduce time costs, but its service life is limited, since under the constant influence of moisture, the cinder block will quickly collapse. And nets from old beds are perfect as reinforcement - this will save a lot of money.

In addition, the following tools are required:

• Roulette;
• Shovels (shovel and bayonet);
• Buckets (preferably 3 or 4 pieces);
• Pick;
• Building level;
• Concrete mixer (at worst, an ordinary trough will do);
• Master OK;
• Stairs;
• Rammer;
• Ropes and pegs (for fencing and marking).

Digging a pit

If you have special earthmoving equipment, the work will be done very quickly, but in its absence, you will have to do everything yourself. It is not recommended to dig a hole yourself, because you will have to dig about 20 cubic meters of earth, and this is not only tiring, but also quite long. Consequently, the work will be delayed, so help will not be superfluous.

Before starting digging, it is necessary to carefully mark up and only then start work. After the work is completed, the earth will have to be taken out, leaving a little (1 or 2 m³) in order to subsequently fill the hatch - this will prevent the drains from freezing in winter.

During the concreting of the bottom, it is enough just to pour out the solution and level it. After that, you will have to wait at least 7 days, as the concrete needs time to harden.

Walls

The brick must be laid out in a checkerboard pattern with the obligatory dressing of the corners. This will not only allow the soil to absorb moisture, but will also save money on materials.

overlap

A slab is used as a cover. Her choice is a very responsible event. Such a plate must not only be durable (withstand the weight of several people), but also be suitable in size (it must protrude beyond the edges of the pit by at least 30 cm). The floor slab can be purchased or you can fill it yourself, after preparing the form.

The water supply system must be reliable and durable. for plumbing will help you make the right decision and choose the best option.

When pouring, it must be taken into account that the thickness of the slab should be about 12 cm. Do not forget about the reinforcement of the concrete, as well as the hooks that need to be inserted when pouring. It is with the help of these hooks that it will be possible to raise the plate. In addition, it is necessary to leave a hatch in the thickness of the concrete through which gases will exit the cesspool.

Experts recommend casting the slab simultaneously with the start of concreting the bottom. Thus, as soon as the work on the construction of the cesspool is completed, the slab will harden sufficiently and it will be possible to immediately install it.

As a result, the construction of a cesspool with your own hands is not only possible, but also within the power of any homely owner of a summer cottage.

Every modern person tries to create comfortable living conditions around him. The sewerage system is no exception, which has turned from an ordinary street toilet into a whole complex of pipelines and plumbing fixtures. The time has passed when a cesspool was the only possible facility for collecting human waste. Today, he has a sufficient number of various design and technological solutions to choose from, thanks to which suburban housing construction has received such a rapid development. But the sump, which has been transformed into a more usable structure, has not lost its relevance either. And all thanks to the fact that the technology of the eternal cesspool appeared.

Construction of a cesspool with concrete walls without a bottom

Fundamental changes

How did the old septic tank work, over which there was a wooden outdoor toilet? It was an ordinary pit with a soil bottom, where feces and other human waste accumulated. As this container filled up, it was pumped out or, which happened much more often, simply covered with earth, and the toilet was transferred to another place.

But this principle is completely unsuitable for modern plumbing fixtures, since there is no prospect of rebuilding the piping system and moving the sump. Therefore, completely different cesspools began to be built, which could extend the service life for many decades. Now drains can freely accumulate and be cleaned in large quantities. Yes, and you have to pump out only that part of the waste that was deposited in a certain compartment.

A modern cesspool without a bottom, the device of which can be done independently, has undergone some changes. Now this is not just a depression in the ground, which accumulates and slowly filters the incoming liquid. It is divided into two equal compartments, in one of which aerobic bacteria can live. But the second compartment is designed to remove the purified liquid, which slowly flows from the first tank and then goes into the ground through a sand-gravel filter. In this way, almost complete purification of the collected effluents is achieved. The remaining contaminants, and they can be no more than 1 - 2 percent, are “eaten up” by microorganisms living in the soil. In this way, nature receives a prepared liquid that can return to the natural aquifer completely disinfected.

Location

Before starting work on the installation of a cesspool, you should choose the optimal place for its location. But it must be remembered that this structure should not be too close to the building, since otherwise the moisture coming from the outlet section of the well will gradually undermine the foundation of the building. The minimum distance is considered to be three meters from the house, but it would be better to increase it to five in order to have a full guarantee of safety.

But this is not the only rule that should be observed when determining the location of the future cesspool. If there is a well with drinking water or a well on the territory of the site, the sump must be located at a distance of at least 30 meters from it. This is the minimum allowable rate, which, if possible, should be increased. This is necessary in order not to get contamination of the water intake with harmful substances that can accumulate near the cesspool.

The presence of trees also makes adjustments to the location of the sewer facility. Powerful roots can destroy any wall and foundation, so you should not risk building a cesspool closer than three meters from the nearest tree. This will avoid problems with unwanted tank repairs in the future, which is not only costly, but also quite time consuming.

It should be said about the minimum distance to the road and a natural reservoir or stream. It is worth retreating five meters from the road in order to exclude the possibility of washing this structure with water from the hatching compartment. But from the reservoir should move the well 10 meters. This will not allow effluents that have not been treated, but for one reason or another got into the ground, poison the water and upset the ecological balance in the surrounding nature.

Excavation

When the marking and determination of the location of the cesspool are completed, earthworks begin. Here it is also necessary to build on some rules, according to which to develop the soil on your own site. The main thing to do is to calculate the volume of the future reservoir. The initial data in this question is the number of people living in the house. When making calculations, you need to remember that for each person there are up to 200 liters of drains with the active use of the toilet, shower and washing machine.

With such quantities, a family of four has about 800 liters of waste per day. In addition to this indicator, you should have a margin in the volume of the tank to ensure a guaranteed withdrawal of liquid after cleaning. Therefore, it is better to increase the indicator by at least one and a half times.

When the volume is calculated, you can proceed to excavation. But even here you can’t let everything go by itself. In order to be able to completely pump out any reservoir, it is impossible to make a pit depth of more than three meters. The fact is that the hose of the sewer machine cannot go deeper, so this indicator must be carefully and accurately observed. But since it is impossible to make the cesspool very deep, it remains to simply expand it in order to obtain the required volume.

The excavation itself can be done manually, which will take a lot of time. In addition, you will need an assistant who will raise the soil to the surface. That's why the best option will use special equipment that will do this work in just a few hours. And since the well does not have to be rounded, the future pit will practically not have to be cleaned with a shovel. When carrying out earthworks, it is necessary to select more soil than is required for the construction of the walls of the future reservoir. This is necessary because the arrangement of a cesspool in a private house includes filling the bottom of the pit with sand and gravel pillows.

Backfilling

This is a rather important stage in the chain of all works on the construction of a modern cesspool. The future performance of this structure and the effectiveness of the final treatment of incoming effluents depend on it. It is necessary to add crushed stone at different levels, since in one place it plays a depreciation role, in another it acts as a filter. Therefore, before backfilling, the soil must be removed to different depths.

The layer of crushed stone under the first part of the cesspool should be at least 50 cm, but the filter cannot be less than 1.5 meters, which will allow it to work on full power. To perform this work, the material should be covered in small portions, 10–15 cm thick. Each such layer must be rammed, ensuring that all elements fit tightly to each other.

When the required level of the pillow is reached, you can proceed to construction and installation work. The sides will be filled only after the completion of the construction of the entire structure.

brick or concrete

Since one of the sections of the cesspool must have a sealed bottom, the concrete base is first poured. To do this, you can use a ready-made or home-made composition, pre-ordered before work. The future slab will require reinforcement to make the base strong and durable, because it will have to bear the load of not only walls and covers, but also a large amount of wastewater. And the larger the size of this reservoir, the greater will be the total weight of the collected liquid. It also depends on how often to pump out the cesspool as it fills up.

When the base is ready and completely hardened, you can proceed to the construction of the walls of the structure. You can build from bricks or use the same concrete. In the first case, the masonry is carried out with an offset of each row in order to obtain maximum strength. The thickness of the walls should be equal to 25 cm, which is equal to the length of one brick. During masonry, you can use a reinforcing mesh, which is laid between the rows, tying them together more firmly. This is especially necessary when constructing a partition separating one compartment from another.

The partition also has its own requirements. It must have technological windows through which liquid from one compartment can flow into another. Reinforced concrete products should be used as jumpers, as other materials may not be able to cope with the impact of an aggressive environment. In addition, you need to use a special solution, which should have the following composition:

• Construction sand;
• Cement;
• Liquid glass.

This will allow you to get a durable mixture that will not collapse under the influence of moisture and the available environment.

When using concrete to build walls, formwork is required. The material of this design can be wood, plywood or chipboard. The main condition is strength, which will ensure a calm hardening of the concrete mixture for several weeks. In addition to the formwork, you need to make a reinforcing cage, which will add strength to the walls. Concrete must be poured at a time in order to achieve solidity of the future structure. In addition, it is required to vibrate the concrete in order to remove the existing air bubbles from it.

They cannot be left inside the walls, as this can lead to the gradual destruction of the entire cesspool.

Cover device and backfilling of the tank

When the walls of the structure are ready and completely dry, you should start making the cesspool cover. Two hatches must be made in it, through which it will be possible to carry out subsequent maintenance of each compartment. The lid can be made of concrete, which is quite difficult to make. You can also use metal that is treated with an anti-corrosion material. In this case, you will need welding machine, profiled pipes or corner, as well as sheet iron.

In any case, there must be a ventilation pipe in the lid. It is needed to ensure the flow of fresh air, without which the aerobic bacteria that clean the wastewater in the first compartment cannot work. The pipe must be completely sealed so that moisture does not enter the tank from outside the cesspool. This is necessary to maintain a constant level of drains that are collected throughout the house.

The very last step in the construction of an eternal sump is backfilling the sides. It is best to use building sand for this purpose, which will reduce the load on the walls that occurs during seasonal heaving of the soil. Sand gradually fills the voids in equal layers and compacts. The tightness of the fit will reduce the subsidence of the bedding after the first rains. You can also spill sand with water, which will play the role of a rammer.

Sod can be used on top of the cesspool, which will be the basis for a lawn or other landscape design elements. This will make the site more attractive. appearance, and at the same time hide the sump from the field of view of guests and neighbors.

A citizen modern city, accustomed to the benefits of civilization, does not represent the living conditions of life in the countryside.

The conveniences of apartment buildings: water supply, sewerage, heating - have become commonplace.

Owners of private houses do not have the opportunity to enjoy the benefits of centralized utility networks.

First, design

Design and installation sewer system- an important part of the arrangement of life in the house.

Features of living dictate the method of collecting wastewater (how to do it).

Cesspool to collect waste activities of people in one place, will protect from unpleasant odors and environmental pollution.

Structurally, the pit is not a complex object.

But improper installation and use will lead to:

• the spread of unpleasant odors,
• the spread of infections
• deterioration of the ecological situation.

The owner of a rural house is able to independently make a pit.

To do this, you need to know the features of the technology (about PVC tees for sewer pipes written) and possible difficulties in the installation of the structure.

Technological features

Before starting work, they are determined with the type of cesspool.

Design features will determine the course of events (how to make the transition from cast iron to plastic 160 mm, read on the page).

Sewage collection facilities divided into 3 types:

1. a pit without a bottom;
2. sealed container;
3. septic tank.

Leaky bottomless structures are a cheap, easy-to-make option.

Pit will not require weekly cleaning, may be smaller than a closed container.

But such designs have several disadvantages:

• substances from wastewater enter directly into the soil;
• groundwater pollution,
• over time, perhaps, siltation of the well.

The ecosystem is able to cope with one cubic meter liquid household waste.

Microorganisms cannot process large volumes, therefore, before starting work, they calculate the size of sewage.

This will help to avoid soil pollution in your own area and will not cause problems with your neighbors.

IMPORTANT!
It is impossible to create a cesspool within a radius of 30 meters from a well or well that supplies water to the house.

Close proximity to a septic tank poses a threat of harmful substances and microorganisms getting into drinking water.

Installing a sealed structure will avoid several problems:

• the spread of odors
• Soil pollution,
• ground water.

This type of sump has one serious drawback.- the need to pump out wastewater several times a month.

The frequency of calling special equipment depends on the number of residents and water consumption.

Availability household appliances(read about plumbing hatches for the bathroom) and an increase in draw-off points speeds up the filling of the structure.

INFORMATION!
Modern developments will speed up the decomposition of sewage, reduce the amount of waste.

The location of the septic tank on the territory

When choosing a place for a cesspool, the following points are taken into account:

• the sump is located no closer than 5 meters from the house;
• the security zone of a well or well is 30 meters.
  It is not recommended to arrange a cesspool closer;
• it is necessary to provide an entrance for equipment for pumping wastewater.

In addition to the above, consider soil features, the location of aquifers and other features of the site.

What material to use

Cesspools of various types are made of brick or reinforced concrete rings.

An effective solution to create a sealed design is to buy a plastic container.

The device made of polymeric materials is not subject to corrosion, withstands mechanical stress and aggressive environments well.

The container is easy to install and operate. The only downside is the cost.

Installation of a sump

The installation of a cesspool takes place in several stages:

How to clear deposits

Settling tanks different types filled at different rates.

Cesspool cleaning you can do it yourself, but the right solution would be to call a special service.

Constant control over the filling level of the sump is necessary.

Liquid level should not be higher than 20-30 centimeters from the surface. Timely pumping will save the site from spilling sewage.

The sewer machine pumps out liquid waste, so this method is not able to solve the cleaning problem completely.

Over time, sediment accumulates at the bottom, which reduces the useful volume of the cesspool.

This leads to an increase in the number of rollouts.

Special formulations and additives are able to decompose sediment and accelerate the disposal of sewage.

In summer, the best option will become biological activators, consisting of several strains of bacteria.

Microorganisms will reduce the amount of waste, eliminate unpleasant odors. The functioning of activators takes place at temperatures plus 4-30 degrees.

During cold periods chemicals are used.

safe option will be the acquisition of a nitrate oxidizer. The substance will not have harmful effects on the ecosystem and human health.

Sanitary Compliance

Installation of a cesspool (the distance from the septic tank to the house is indicated) will solve the problem of comfortable living in the country.

Safe life, a good ecological situation on the site and around is possible subject to sanitary standards:

1. in accordance with SanPiN, the sump is located at a distance of 30 meters from water sources and be lower than them in level;
2. you can not use the design without a bottom with a daily volume of wastewater more than one cubic meter. It is necessary to build access roads. The depth of the pit should not exceed three meters;
3. the hatch must be tightly closed, especially in winter. The lid needs to be insulated. This will prevent the sump from freezing.

Following simple rules. you can independently build a cesspool and ensure comfortable living in your own home. Proper performance of work in compliance with sanitation standards will allow you to use the sewer for many years.

While watching the video, you will learn how to draw up a sewerage scheme in a private house yourself.

Depending on the amount of drained water, you can choose the appropriate option:

• a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option to make a drain in the bath;
• sealed cesspool - for a large number of drains;
• septic tank - for partial treatment and draining of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drain cesspool?

If the daily amount of discharged water does not exceed one cubic meter, a drain pit can be used. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bath. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a pillow of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold, which can be immediately buried.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

A septic tank is the best cesspool

If the amount of drain exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is unprofitable to order a monthly pumping out of the pit, the best way out is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting environment much smaller than the usual latrine with a pit. Ready-made systems are sold, which are enough to bury on the site, or you can do it completely on your own.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a number of advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ does not require a large area for the organization of the filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ It is possible to carry out a complete cleaning once every ten years.

But the disadvantages of such a septic tank are also present:

- significant labor costs - it is problematic to cope with the device of a septic tank alone;
- time - pouring cement into the formwork and its hardening takes about a month;
– optional equipment- to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or a drill with a mixer.

Site selection

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about the neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But to the house it can be placed almost close - 3 m from the foundation with a one-story building, and 5 m - with a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is solved - the greater the distance to the pit, the deeper you will have to dig a trench and insulate the pipe.

Be sure to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood water - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to arrange a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, it can not be buried completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step by step instructions on how to make a septic tank

After choosing a place for a septic tank, work begins on its organization. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people, the main chamber will be at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six - 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and it is used daily, the size of the chambers must be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small margin, since the filling of the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drains in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately overflow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

1. After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a foundation pit is dug. The upper fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and arrange the beds.



2. The trench for the drain pipe is dug at the same time as the pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. So that the masses do not stagnate, the pipe must be laid without straight and sharp corners.
3. It is desirable to get to sandy or sandy soil. On the clay soil a sand and gravel pad is being made. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and tamped, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a fraction of 5 cm. Thus, for a septic tank 2.5 m deep, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.



4. The rest of the formwork is done on top of the pillow. The formwork along the walls is one-sided - the second side is the earth.



5. A drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom. If it is above freezing of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
6. A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
7. Concrete can be kneaded both manually in a trough with a chopper, and a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of ordinary washing powder to each bucket of water.



8. Concrete mixed with crushed stone and stones of different sizes is poured into the formwork, and the mixture itself is bayoneted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and the tee are poured so that after the formwork is removed, there is a monolithic wall around them.



9. As soon as the concrete hardens, you can make the top floor. It is most convenient to use corrugated board for formwork. It is laid so that it goes halfway onto the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring, the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
10. A technical hatch with a diameter of 1 m is made, around which formwork is installed. It is necessary to make two holes above the chambers and insert pipes. In the main chamber - a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum relief hole is made at the end of such a pipe. A ventilation pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is inserted into the second.





11. An overlap with a minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured with the obligatory addition of stone and bayonet. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and it can be completely covered with earth, leaving only a technical hatch. So that in winter the septic tank does not freeze through this hatch, it is covered with foam plastic and covered with another lid.

An improved do-it-yourself cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber becomes silted, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and the final cleaning of the drain water takes place in the second chamber.

And how to make a simple cesspool is described step by step in the video:

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To ensure a comfortable stay in a private house, its owner has to make a lot of efforts. This applies to the maintenance of all engineering communications, including the sewerage system, which in its own household consists of a cesspool and sewers.

A cesspool with a volume of 2 cubic meters is capable of processing waste, provided that no more than two family members live permanently in the house or the building is used only for temporary stay in it. The drain pit should be cleaned often, and this costs money and a lot, since you need to order a sewer truck. Experts recommend building quality treatment plant, whose contents will need to be pumped out much less frequently.

Choice of pit type

1. An earthen tank without a bottom is the most popular. Due to the lack of a concrete base, the liquid partially sinks into the soil and drains are collected very slowly in the tank. Cleaning it is done no more than once every few months.

   The design without a bottom, such as in the photo, has a number of serious drawbacks. Drainage and sewage gradually pollute the soil and groundwater, so the digging of drain holes should be carried out at a certain distance from the house, but not closer than 5 meters. In addition, this type of sewage structure loses its filtering capacity over time due to the gradual silting of the bottom.

   A two-chamber septic tank has a more complex design. The waste liquid first enters the first tank, where large wastes settle. The bacteria then proceed to process the contents. The first chamber is connected to another container by means of a drain pipe. Thus, a fine-grained cleaner liquid enters the second part of the septic tank. There, the drains are finally settled.

   
   The second container has a similar device as the first part of the treatment plant. In it, bacteria continue to process wastewater. Both chambers are cleaned approximately 1-2 times during the year. At the outlet of the septic tank, water is obtained that is quite suitable for technical use, for example, for irrigation. It can also be dumped into a nearby body of water.

   How to dig a drain hole correctly

   There are certain sanitary norms, regulating how to properly dig a drain hole. Initially, you should choose a place where the pit will be built. See also: "".

   

   Minimum depth the drain pit should be 2 meters, despite the fact that the level of groundwater is below this mark. Also, the pit should be located at a distance of at least 30 meters from a water source, such as, for example, a well. The minimum distance from the well to the cesspool must in no case be reduced.

   
   Before digging a drain hole, you need to make sure that it will be located at a distance of at least 5 meters from a residential building. It is impossible for the sewage ditch to be on the slope of the site and far from the road (this is required in order to pump out sewage with the help of special equipment if necessary). See also: "".

   The pit is dug both manually and with the help of an excavator. Its width should exceed the estimated width of the pit by about 50 centimeters for interior lining. When calculating the depth of the future pit, the thickness of the bottom filling with a concrete solution is taken into account. In addition to the pit, you need to dig trenches for laying sewers.

   

   The walls of the drain pit and its cover

   A home craftsman needs to know not only how to dig a drain hole, but also be able to finish its walls.

   A drainage cushion is laid at the bottom of the pit, consisting of sand and several layers of rubble. A reinforced concrete slab is placed on it or a concrete screed is made. When a filter pit is created, a 20-cm layer of rubble, stones, broken brick or cinder block is poured onto its bottom.

   From materials for wall decoration you can use:

   • concrete mortar. Formwork is pre-installed with inserted rods, and then the walls are poured. The thickness of the concrete layer must be at least 7 centimeters;
   • Red brick. They lay out the walls from the bottom to the very top;
   • reinforced concrete poles. They are placed on the cement mortar in a row. In order to avoid collapse, limiters are made on both sides of the masonry;
   • concrete rings. A crane is required for their installation. The rings are placed on a concrete base, equipped at the bottom of the pit. The joints between the elements are coated with cement mortar;
   • the simplest solution is a ready-made container (plastic as an option) placed in a pit. Before you dig a drain hole, you need to know the parameters of the tank (purchased tank) so that they match its size.

   

   When finishing the walls, at the same time the pit is connected to the sewers. They should be connected tightly with the material of the walls, but not rigidly. This is done in order to prevent damage to the pipes in the process of soil sedimentation. It is advisable to use rubber connectors and adapters with a sufficient degree of strength. Outside, the pit is trimmed with roofing material in several layers or with oily clay.

   It is impossible to cover the hermetically drain pit, since it must communicate with the atmosphere. In addition, the lid must have a hole for pumping sewage through it. Therefore, slate sheets are the best option for covering the pit. To do this, wooden logs are placed on top of the pit. When the pit needs to be slightly opened, the sheets are removed and set aside. For such an overlap of the pit, it is required to make insulation for the winter.

   Another option is a concrete slab with a cleaning hole. Sometimes you can make an overlap from the boards. Regardless of the type of cover for the waste pit, rain and melt water should not enter the pit.

   Chemical preparations for septic tanks and pits

   For drain pits, there is a huge selection of various bioactivator products on sale. They are produced in the form of solutions, powders, tablets, etc. These drugs contain strains of microorganisms that can process human waste very quickly. Bacteria feed on organic matter and consume oxygen, which is dissolved in wastewater.

   As a result, microorganisms in the shortest possible time relieve the surrounding space near the pit from the stench and decompose sewage into separate components.