The central locking does not work - we solve the problem. What should a driver do when the central locking does not work? Electric door lock does not work

Tell me, when the BC starts squealing about an open door, does the interior light come on? The fact is that the door limit switches go through the BC and the interior lamp (providing a smooth shutdown of the light (polite light)).

If there are problems with the switch or the lamp or LED lamp burns out, then there will be problems with arming, it will not see the closed door and will squeal.

Following. Does the central locking work when opening/closing with the key? The driver's door actuator has a switch that is connected to the central locking unit and provides opening/closing.

The central locking unit needs to be checked; it is located behind the shield near the gas pedal. The first thing you need to do is check the short-circuit fuse, number 2 in the picture, it is not on the block itself, but for some reason it was hung on a wire, you need to rummage through the wires coming from the fuse block. It's in a plastic capsule, I think it's easy to find. Don't forget to check the ground on the central locking

If it is working properly and there is 12 volts on the block (terminals 1, 2), you need to check the central locking unit itself. To do this, connect pin 5 and pin 7 (opening/closing) to ground in the block (ground pin 2 on the block). The actuators should work. There are also two fuses on the alarm, they hang directly on the wires, next to the alarm unit, but since you tore it out, they don’t count.

Check the above, unsubscribe, we will think further.

The situation started like this. I was driving calmly, downhill, everything was fine. Suddenly the car stalls while driving, jerking a little, as if it had run out of gas. I pulled down onto the sidewalk. I got on the emergency lights, tried to start it, it started and stalled. Then it stopped starting altogether. I opened the hood, checked the pressure in the rail, there was no pressure at all. I coast down the hill, roll to the gate of the car service (I knew it was there) and explain the problem to the smart service workers. They respond by saying that all the boxes are occupied, but anyway it’s the fuel pump that needs to be changed. I went to an auto store and bought a fuel pump, brought it in, and at the service center they just dismantled my old fuel pump, as always with VAZs there can be many options for spare parts. I bought the wrong fuel pump, changed it, brought it, installed it. I turn on the ignition, damn it, it doesn’t pump and doesn’t even show the gasoline level. The service center found some kind of fuel pump, installed it, also zero. They had a 10 standing there for repairs, and they took it off. Also horseradish. 4 hours passed, all the car service workers, led by the SMARTEST foreman, stood near my car and wondered what was the matter. Having checked and called everything that could be called, it was of no use. Then the SMARTEST master called the SMARTEST master and he carefully hinted to check the signaling, BINGO! It turned out that the signal ground nut had unscrewed and the wiring (BITCH) had come off. He was brought in so that he would never turn away again. They installed my old but cleaned fuel pump and everything worked. The car started. I returned the new fuel pump to the store. I gave the service guys 500 rubles for 5.5 hours of work. I drove up to the house, saw a plastic cap from the ramp in the car, and decided to screw it on. I opened the hood and saw a pressure gauge screwed to the ramp, which the service workers had forgotten. I replaced the pressure gauge with a cap and took the pressure gauge to the service center. About a month has passed. History repeated itself, the car starts and stalls. The mass is screwed tightly, the fuel pump does not pump. Having rummaged around with my hands in the wires, under the panel, I just rummaged around at random and noticed that the fuel pump had begun to pump. The car started. I went. I went for about a week. Same story again. Well now I KNOW what to do. I fumbled again with my hand in the wires, under the panel. Started up. Let's go. But then one day, I approach the car, press the alarm button (the battery is new), the indicator lights up, the car does not open. The guard is not removed. I opened it with the key. I sat down and inserted the key into the ignition. The alarm beeped. I turned off the alarm about the fifth time. But after 10 seconds, it turned on again. Turned it off. This was repeated 10 times. I got tired of it, I tore out the signal. I started the car and drove off. I drove for about 2 months. Suddenly, in a warm car, there was heat in the cabin. The indicator and the sound of the open driver's door are triggered (the interior light does not light up) and the power windows work at their own request. They want to work. They want to, but they don't work. The short circuit fuse is perfect. In general, this is how it all began, dear gooddi. Yes, by the way, the central locking did not work from the key (it never worked for me), but the tomahawk signaling system had feedback.

I just started reading, especially about the pressure gauge)))). The fact that the signal was not disarmed is one hundred percent that she did not see the open door, that is, the signal from the door switch did not pass through. That it has shorted to ground is not uncommon (oxidation of the limit switch contact), but it would be all four at once.

First, check all the masses. I can’t say for sure right now, but one wire is screwed to ground under the dashboard, above the fuse block (you can fumble with your hand, and you can see it), the other is screwed where the ECU is located, on the driver’s side.

There, in the harness, there is another insidious male-female connection (it seems to be a thick brown wire), I don’t remember the rest. Unscrew the fuse block (one screw where the cover lock is), the connectors at the bottom, check their condition, it is better to pull it out and inspect it.

Well, don’t forget the masses from the battery to the body and engine. It’s possible that you don’t have a DZ block; it’s often thrown away when installing the alarm. The fuel pump may not turn on due to the fact that the main relay does not turn on (turns on when the key is turned on) and if the pump relay does not turn on (turns on from the computer), provided that the main relay turns on.

Let's not overload you with information, otherwise we'll get confused. Start by grounding and checking the fuse box connectors. Based on the results, we will think further.

Well, in general, after some time, I also began to blame the door switch and the fuse block. Since, with the power windows not working, I once tried to pull the fuse block all the way down and they started working.

And recently, while driving, on the highway, two cylinders turned off, and stopping on the side of the road, with the engine running on two cylinders, I again pulled the fuse block all the way down and they turned on.

The engine started running smoothly on all cylinders. So tomorrow (it’s raining outside today) I’ll go to the dacha. I'll check the limit switch and unscrew the fuse box and check. And I’ll try to put the signaling in place and check the operation of the central locking system. Now, at the dachas, there is no one anyway, the alarm will scream only for me. At the same time I will change the front brake pads. I'll post the results tomorrow evening.

Central locking, or “CZ” as it is briefly called, is a necessary and essential thing for any car, allowing the owner to open and close any door in the car with just one movement of the hand. However, it happens that this system ceases to function completely, or its individual parts do not work properly.

There are reasons why one or another part of the central lock may fail, and we will discuss each in detail below.

The central locking does not work: signs of malfunction and causes of their occurrence

It happens that when the central lock located on the driver's door is closed, no action occurs on the other doors. However, as soon as you move it a little, the doors immediately closed. It is immediately clear that the problem here is the presence of malfunctions in the central locking and several reasons contribute to this.

Among all the possible causes of malfunctions, all the most basic ones can be identified.

No contact in the drive

With such a malfunction, the contacts inside the control drive do not close the necessary contacts in time. This happens for several reasons:

When such problems occur in the operation of the central locking, first of all you need to make sure that the button is lowered to the very end. If for some reason this does not happen, first inspect the casing for burrs, and then inspect the rod for its even and accurate position.

Fuse blown

If manipulations with the central locking rod do not bring any results, and they do not react in any way to either opening or locking, then first of all you need to check its electrical circuit, and specifically the fuse. Because on the central lock it can fail not only if a short circuit occurs in the circuit, but also if the slightest overload occurs.

The central locking fuse is indicated by a marker.

Overload occurs most often from insufficient position of the rods, as well as lubrication in them during winter operation of the car.

The central locking wires are broken

Broken wires are not the main reason, but one of the reasons for the failure of the central locking system. The main reason for this is the break in the wires in those places where they bear the greatest load. Such a place is definitely the passage of the corrugation from the side of the pillar and the driver's door. And since it is the driver’s door that is most often opened in any car, it receives most of the load.

• It is quite easy to identify such a malfunction; you just need to release one of the ends of the corrugation through which the wires pass into the door and pull one of the five central locking wires. As a rule, they are connected into one bundle, or go next to each other.
• After carrying out such manipulations, a wire that is torn or broken will easily give in among the general heap.
• If you are absolutely sure that a particular circuit is faulty, replacing it will not be difficult by inserting the required wire and further insulating it with electrical tape.
• When the wires are broken or torn in other places, the fault can only be found by testing the circuit with a multimeter.

Block burned out

Another reason why the central lock may fail is a burnout of the central locking unit. And in order to diagnose it, you need to use the above-mentioned multimeter and determine the presence of voltage at the contacts of the block.

This is what the immobilizer and central locking unit look like behind the instrument panel.

Please note that during diagnostics it is necessary to operate the lock in the driver's door so that impulses are sent from it to the main unit.

The central locking activator is faulty

And the last reason why the central locking refuses to work is the failure of the activator on the central drive. It can fail both for mechanical reasons, due to wear of rubbing parts, and due to the influence of external factors of moisture and corrosion.

If the activator itself breaks down, it is necessary to replace the electric drive with a new one and replace it. Pay attention to the fact that the drive must have five wires of different colors.

The principle of operation of the central lock on the VAZ-2112

The central lock, which operates from the driver's door drive of the VAZ-2112, works as follows:

When the lock closes, the rod on the driver's door moves down, thereby closing certain contacts on the electric drive. From these actions, the central locking unit receives signals and transmits commands to the drives of all other door locks. Their discovery occurs in the same way.

When leaving the conveyor, its comfort and ergonomics are increased. The cars are “stuffed” with electronic safety and comfort systems. They provide maximum driving pleasure.

Car central locking easy to use and useful invention. Used over the past few decades. Its creation allowed the driver to get rid of unnecessary manipulations associated with opening and closing the driver's and passenger doors.

Since its inception, the central car lock has undergone a number of significant changes. Controls the opening of not only the doors, but also the trunk. The car's central locking cannot operate indefinitely. Sooner or later, malfunctions occur in its operation requiring repair or complete replacement of the system.

A person who gets used to good things is sensitive to the failure of comfort systems. He feels uncomfortable wasting time on manipulations that previously required just a finger press. A central locking malfunction forces the driver to search for information, why the central locking doesn't work.

At the end of the article you can find a video on how to repair a car's central locking system. It will be an excellent addition to the text material. Enjoy watching.

The car's central locking is the “heart” of the security system. Responsible for control in the car. That is why it is called central. The signal sent from the key fob symbolizing the central control unit closes or opens the doors, windows, trunk and hatch.

Central locking is one of the car's auxiliary comfort systems. The development of the central locking system does not stand still. New car models are equipped with a system that ensures automatic closing of door locks when driving. Some car models combine central locking and alarm systems under a single control.

Central locking device

The central locking system is designed to ensure reliable operation under all conditions. It combines several basic elements, without which full use of the system is impossible. New cars have a complex central locking control scheme. Other components of the vehicle’s on-board system are involved.

The device of the central car lock:

1. Control unit.

The electronic control unit is used to transmit signals with commands to the mechanism switches and the central unit. After decoding the command, the central unit opens or closes the doors, windows, trunk and hatch.

2.Input sensors.

Input sensors are also called microswitches. Work together with door lock limit switches. Microswitches determine and fix the position of the locks after a command from the central control unit.

3.Executive devices.

Actuators are represented by door and trunk locks. They open and close based on microswitch commands. The last link in the chain.

The central locking system operates independently of. The electronic control unit on the key fob is powered autonomously. A coin-cell battery is used.

Determining malfunctions of the central locking

Failure of the central locking system cannot occur spontaneously. There are harbingers indicating that the system is not working correctly or malfunctioning. They cannot be ignored. It is necessary to determine the cause of the malfunction as quickly as possible.

Reasons for failure of the car's central locking system:

1. Complete refusal.

Does not respond to pressing buttons on the key fob sending commands to the central control unit. Often the cause of the malfunction is trivial. A discharged key fob battery prevents sending a command to open or close locking devices.

2. Partial refusal.

It is characterized by alternating periods of normal operation in normal mode and a complete refusal to respond to remote control commands.

3. Malfunction of locks.

The malfunction manifests itself as chaotic operation of the locks. They can randomly close, open or be completely blocked without responding to incoming commands. The malfunction is dangerous because the doors can be completely blocked without the possibility of mechanical opening. You have to remove the door trim and open it manually.

Before you start central locking system repair it is necessary to establish the cause of the malfunction.

The procedure for localizing failures and disturbances in the system:

1. Alarm testing.

If the central locking is combined with an alarm system, it is necessary to inspect it first. The door locking devices do not respond to signals from the control panel; they must be checked mechanically using the ignition key.

If the central locking operates in manual mode, you need to check the electrical and control circuits of the alarm. One of the common options is that the battery in the key fob may have run out.

2. The central locking does not work completely or partially.

When testing the central locking system, it refuses to work or operates irregularly in manual mechanical mode using the ignition key. It is necessary to clarify the nature of the manifestation of the malfunction.

If there is a complete system failure on the vacuum central locking system, the compressor operation cannot be heard. The electric central locking responds with weak, barely audible clicks of the operating relay. The locking device buttons remain stationary.

It is necessary to locate the central locking circuit fuse. If it is burnt out, replacing it will solve the problem of mechanism failure. Depending on the car model, there may be more than one fuse.

3. The system fuses are intact and undamaged.

If it is determined that the fuses are safe and sound, you must continue to persistently examine the system to determine the cause of the malfunction.

The cause of malfunctions in the operation of locking devices may be the lack of voltage supply to the input elements of the driver's door actuators. The malfunction occurs after wire breaks or terminal oxidation and breaks contact.

The driver's door drive cannot transmit the signal received by it from the control panel to the other doors. Similar symptoms appear when the driver's door actuator limit switch is faulty. The control signal is not detected.

Repair work on the central system must begin with checking the power supply and control signal. It is necessary to visually check the system wires for damage. The limit switch must be checked. It is installed inside the drive.

4. Arbitrary opening or closing of door locks.

Often, after pressing the key fob button, they close and after a few seconds open randomly. The opposite sign of a malfunction also appears when the locks close without giving a signal.

The cause of the malfunction is a violation of the fixation of the rod fasteners. Located between the drive and the driver's door lock mechanism. There is a violation of the process of unlocking and locking doors.

Repair of vacuum central locking

Common malfunctions of vacuum central locking:

1.Opening and closing of door locks continues until the pump stops working.

The cause of the malfunction is condensation formed during temperature changes. The driver's door actuator switch contact malfunctions. The switch is dismantled and the condensate is removed. It may need to be replaced.

2. Uneven operation of car door locks.

On some doors, the locks close late or continue to remain open after receiving a command from the control panel. The compressor continues to operate until it is switched off by the protection system.

The vacuum line tubes are checked for leaks. The door line where the fault was found is inspected. Damage can be detected by hearing by the characteristic hiss of escaping air. Damaged tubes require replacement.

The pump control board does not receive a signal to close the door locks. He continues to circulate air. Damage to the electrical wire occurs in the door corrugation.

The signals reach the pump board, but it continues to work ignoring them. To repair the fault, the compressor unit is disassembled. The oxidized terminals of the alarm pneumatic sensor are being cleaned. If these steps do not help, then the pump control board has failed.

Repair of electric central locking

Electric central locks on cars are sensitive to temperature changes and high air humidity. At first they start to freeze and after a short time they refuse to work.

Causes of malfunction of the electrical central locking system:

1.Breakage of electrical circuit wires.

Careless actions when dismantling doors or repairing them lead to a break in the electrical wire in the corrugations. It is necessary to “ring” the electrical circuit to find damage.

2. Relay failure.

The damaged relay is replaced and the system operates as before.

3. Malfunctions of the control board.

It is being repaired or replaced.

4. Wear of motor gears.

Active use of the central locking system leads to wear and tear on the working elements of the motor. Plastic gears suffer. They wear out as a result of work. They are being replaced.

The central locking system in a car is a useful and convenient feature for the driver. To repair it, you need to understand the structure and principle of operation.

Thank you for your attention, good luck on your journey. Read, comment and ask questions. Subscribe to fresh and interesting articles on the site.

Central locking is a simple and reliable means of automatically locking car doors. It also helps control the windows, trunk or hatch. One of its popular functions is to lock the doors when the car is moving, which eliminates the possibility of accidental opening at high speed. As a rule, the central locking system is already installed at the factory, although there are many cars where it is installed independently.

The main elements of this system are quite simple and do not require special maintenance. However, problems with the lock are not that uncommon. The complaint that the central locking does not always work can be heard from every second car owner. This situation is not pleasant, because if the central locking does not open with the key fob, getting into the car becomes extremely difficult. If there are problems with locking, the car becomes defenseless against car thieves.

Central lock and frost

If the central locking stops working, there can be many reasons, but in most cases only one or two drives fail or there are temporary difficulties with closing/opening doors. One of the most common problems is operating a car with central locking in winter. . If the problem occurs exclusively in cold weather, this means that there is no lubrication in the electric lock, and the water entering it freezes, preventing normal movement. To fix this problem, you will need to dismantle the door trim, clean and re-lubricate the lock. As a rule, in the event of such a violation, the central locking on one door does not work.

Another reason why the central locking does not work may be the very design of the activators located in the doors. If their role is played by solenoids, then a year of operation is enough for them to begin to jam during operation. This problem is especially pronounced during the cold season. At the same time, such central locking systems are installed on domestic cars at the factory, and in order to avoid problems, the solenoids can be independently replaced with activators with electric motors.

If the central locking does not work

There are plenty of situations when the central locking does not work when controlled remotely or with a key. Quite often, car owners are faced with the fact that the central locking alarm does not work. If the central locking system works in conjunction with an alarm system, it can be difficult to deal with such a problem, especially if the alarm system itself works properly and responds adequately to signals from the key fob. In this case, the cause is often a faulty relay or wiring problem. By the way, the relay itself can be located not only next to the control unit - if the central locking system was installed by the previous owner, then you will have to look for it.

When the central locking does not work from the key fob, but works fine from the key or from the button, it is almost guaranteed that the key fob itself is to blame- the battery in it can simply run out. Problems with the radio signal transmitter or receiver are quite rare. If the central locking from the key fob does not work, you can try using the second key fob from the kit, or replace the battery.

If the central locking does not work with the key, then the reason may lie in the activator located in the driver's door - it is the main one and distributes the control signal throughout the rest of the system. You should check the power wires leading to it - often they are the cause. But before that, it makes sense to check the condition of the fuses of the entire system. To check the power supply to the activator, you will need to remove the trim from the door.

Other problems with central locking and self-check of the system

In the case where the lock was installed at the factory, for the time being it worked flawlessly, but suddenly a failure occurred, you will have to check the entire system. You can do this yourself, for which you will have to check almost all possible options - from fuses to the performance of final actuators.

Checking fuses

In case of any problems, the check should begin with the fuse box - often one of them becomes the culprit. If a fuse on one circuit systematically blows, it must be checked especially carefully, especially the condition of the activator - perhaps it is this that causes the short circuit. How to find fuses can be seen in the video:

Checking the electrical wiring

Attention! When the central locking does not work, checking the wiring is, although time-consuming, but necessary.

It should start from the entrance points to the doors, because it is in these places that the wires often break off or short out due to wear and tear of the insulation. The supply of electricity should also be checked. To do this, the wires are disconnected from the activator, and the “closed” mode is activated by the remote control. Voltage should appear on the supply wire. When you press the button that opens the lock, power should flow to another wire. Each activator is checked in this way.

Checking actuators

When the central lock does not open one door or there are periodic failures to operate, the activator itself may be the cause. If it operates on the basis of an electric motor, under certain conditions its winding may burn out or the gear that ensures the translational movement of the rod may wear out. Repairing this part is impractical; it is easier and faster to install a new activator.

Advice! There is also a situation where the central locking does not work after removing the battery. It is worth understanding that this system does not work without a battery, and it is highly undesirable to de-energize it. This may lead to a malfunction of the control unit and the need for its subsequent repair or replacement.

The standard central locking does not open

You open the driver's door of the car with the key, but the other doors do not open, although according to the logic of the central locking they should open.
The simplest and most common reason may simply be a blown fuse. When it burns out, the electrical circuit of the lock stops working, although you can easily open or close the doors mechanically (with a key).

I don’t know how it is in others, but in Chinese cars assembled by Derways, the contact chip from the driver’s lock could easily fly off. Typically this chip has five contacts. To check this possibility and put the chip in place, you will have to unpanel the door. This is done quite simply, both on Solano and Geely MK or Cross. A screw near the inside handle to open the door and a screw inside the handle to close it. The door panel itself is held on by plastic clips.

In addition to the chip, the microswitch in the electric drive of the driver's door lock may fail. Its function is to close the circuit when the key is turned and open or close the remaining doors. If you have a standard central locking remote control and the doors open with it but not with the key, then the reason is in the driver's door lock.

If the doors do not work when using the remote control (buttons on the key), then either the fuse is at fault, or the BCM unit does not receive or transmit a signal. In the smiley, this block is located under the steering column; you need to unscrew two screws and fold back the plastic cover. On Solano and Lifan x60 it is fixed under the heater control panel. On Geely Mk above the fuse box in the passenger compartment (on the right). On the Emgrande it is also under the steering column to the right of the driver’s feet.

Also, one should not exclude the cause of contact rubbing in the door harnesses. This is still rare, since the cars are all relatively new.

Electric locks do not open when controlled from an alarm system

If there is no standard remote control on the key, but there is a third-party alarm and it does not open the doors, then the first thing you need to do is also check the fuses. And not only the car itself, but also the alarm system. To do this you need to know. Where is the central car alarm unit located? Typically, blue and green wires, or blue and green with a white stripe, are used to control the central locking. Fuses are mounted using a hinged method directly on the wires.

Of course, the signaling itself could also fail. Listen when you press the remote control buttons - are there characteristic clicks of electromagnetic relays in the alarm unit? If not, then check why. Maybe the battery is dead or the remotes have lost synchronization with the unit. Try reprogramming the remotes according to the instructions for the alarm. If there are clicks, then either the fuses or the wiring are to blame.

By the way, in winter, the load current consumed by the central lock increases due to weather conditions. As a result, fuses may blow out more frequently.