12.08.2023

Malfunctions and repairs of the gazelle fuel system. When a Gazelle breaks down: the most common breakdowns

Cars produced by the Gorky Automobile Plant, Gazelle models, are the most popular small cars on our market. The production began in 1994 and has not stopped to this day. During production, the model underwent improvements, the most serious of which was in 2010. Over the entire period of its existence, a large number of engines were installed on the Gazelle.

The most popular gasoline power plants

Since its entry into the market, Gazelle has had several modifications of power plants, the most popular of which are:

Power plant ZMZ 402

This Gazelle engine is the most massive and widespread of all installed ones. Its production began in 1980 and continued until 2006, more than twenty years.

Characteristics of the ZMZ 402 power plant

  • Power - carburetor;
  • Valves, quantity, pcs. - 8;
  • Piston, stroke, mm. - 92;
  • Cylinder, diameter, mm. - 92;
  • Compression - 8.2;
  • Engine capacity, cm 3 - 2445;
  • Power, hp - 100;
  • Torque, Nm - 182;
  • Fuel - gasoline AI-92
  • Engine weight, kg. - 181;
  • Engine oil, l - 6.

Main malfunctions of the ZMZ 402 power plant

The advantage of the motor is the ability to install it on a large number of GAZ brand products. Repairing the Gazelle engine did not bring much trouble, due to the simplicity of the design and the large number of spare parts. Malfunctions:

  • The rear crankshaft oil seal, when the speed exceeded 2500, began to drive oil out. The oil seal packing needs to be replaced.
  • The uneven supply of the working mixture to the engine caused strong vibrations and noise. Tuning the carburetor solved this problem, but for a short time.
  • Poorly adjusted valves created knocking noise in the power plant. Adjustment must be carried out every 15,000 km.
  • The motor mounts quickly failed and created severe vibration. Worn parts needed to be replaced.
  • When the Gazelle internal combustion engine overheated, there were several possible reasons: thermostat, pump, air lock in the cooling system. Frequent overheating of the engine led to loosening of the cylinder head nuts, and subsequently to burnout of the gasket.

Power plant ZMZ 406

The motor was a follower of the ZMZ 402 model and replaced it. Compared to its predecessor, significant changes have been made, making the installation more modern.

Characteristics of the ZMZ 406 power plant

  • Cylinder block, material - cast iron;
  • Cylinder arrangement/quantity, pcs. - in a row/4;
  • Valves, quantity, pcs. - 16;
  • Piston, stroke, mm. - 86;
  • Cylinder, diameter, mm. - 92;
  • Compression - 9.3;
  • Engine volume, cm 3 - 2286;
  • Power, hp - 145;
  • Torque, Nm - 201;
  • Fuel - gasoline AI-92
  • Engine weight, kg. - 187;
  • Fuel consumption, l/100 km (city) - 13.5;
  • Engine oil, l - 6.

Main malfunctions of the ZMZ 406 power plant

The engine was completely new, compared to its successor, and featured a cast-iron block, overhead camshafts, 16 valves and hydraulic compensators. Characteristic disadvantages were:

  • Timing chain noise. Reason: failure of the hydraulic tension mechanism. Sometimes the chain could get stuck.
  • The engine consumes a lot of oil. Reason: wear of oil scraper rings and valve seals, gap between the valve cover and the labyrinth oil deflector plate.
  • Engine malfunctions at idle, sudden drop in power. Reason: faulty ignition coil, the unit requires replacement.
  • Noise when the engine is running, knocking. Reason: hydraulic valve compensators, piston pins, pistons, connecting rod bearings, etc.

Power plant UMZ 4216

The power plant has become widespread due to its reliability and good performance. The main distinguishing feature is an increase in engine volume, larger valves and the installation of an injector for gasoline supply.

Characteristics of the UMZ 4216 power plant

  • Cylinder block, material - aluminum;
  • Power supply - injector/carburetor;
  • Cylinder arrangement/quantity, pcs. - in a row/4;
  • Valves, quantity, pcs. - 8;
  • Piston, stroke, mm. - 92;
  • Cylinder, diameter, mm. - 100;
  • Compression - 8.2;
  • Engine volume, cm 3 - 2890;
  • Power, hp - 125;
  • Torque, Nm - 220;
  • Fuel - gasoline AI-92
  • Engine weight, kg. - 170;
  • Fuel consumption, l/100 km (city) - 12.5;
  • Engine oil, l - 5.8.

Main malfunctions of the UMZ 4216 power plant

The power plant is, in fact, an improved version, replicating the GAZ 21 engine, but assembled at the UMP plant. Unlike ZMZ-402, dry cylinder liners were installed on the engine, thereby increasing the strength of the cylinder block. A rubber cuff was installed, which avoided oil leakage, and some other minor improvements.

Otherwise, the motor was similar to the ZMZ-402 and had the same problems and malfunctions.

The most popular diesel power plants

In addition to gasoline units, the car also used engines running on diesel fuel. Many buyers preferred them for the reason that they consumed less fuel. A special feature of diesel engines is the absence of spark plugs and high-voltage wires. This is due to the specifics of the engine’s operation, in which combustion of the fuel mixture occurs due to pressure.

Power plant GAZ 560

The GAZ engine began to be produced in 1998, under license from the Austrian company Steyr. The power plant was very popular because it had a number of advantages: it tolerated low-quality fuel well, started at sub-zero temperatures, the GAZ engine was playful and economical with a high efficiency.

Characteristics of the GAZ 560 power plant

  • Cylinder arrangement/quantity, pcs. - in a row/4;
  • Turbine boost - yes;
  • Engine, volume, l - 2.1;
  • Piston, diameter, mm - 85;
  • Piston, stroke, mm - 94;
  • Compression ratio - 20.5;
  • Maximum revolutions - 4750;
  • Fuel consumption, l./100km - 11.5.

Main malfunctions of the GAZ 560 power plant

The main feature is that GAZ engines had a monoblock design. This arrangement had a number of advantages: there was no head gasket, so there was no need to change it when the engine overheated; there is no possibility of coolant getting into the oil; The cylinder head is monolithic, so there is no need to monitor the tightening bolts.

The difference had a number of disadvantages, which later decided the fate of everything. These are: it is impossible to bore the block, therefore, engine overhaul was impossible, it is impossible to replace cylinder liners, problems with replacing valves.

Cummins 2.8 ISF powerplant

In 2010, a new engine from the American company Cummins began to be installed on the Gazelle. The power unit was assembled in China, the build quality was at a high level, and the engine showed good technical performance

Characteristics of the Cummins 2.8 ISF powerplant

  • Cylinder arrangement/quantity, pcs. - in a row/4;
  • Turbine boost - yes;
  • Cylinders, diameter, mm - 94;
  • Piston, stroke, mm - 100;
  • Engine volume, l. - 2.78;
  • Power, hp - 120;
  • Weight, kg - 250.
  • Fuel consumption l/100 km - 12.0.

The engine had to be overhauled after a mileage of 500,000 km.

Main malfunctions of the Cummins 2.8 ISF power plant

If the air filters were not replaced in a timely manner, the piston rings failed prematurely. The reason for this was dirt passing into the inner cylinder compartment through the filter.

  • Engine knock. Cause: premature wear of the crankshaft connecting rod bearings. The part could not withstand excessive overloads, as a result of which it was necessary to repair the internal combustion engine.
  • The motor is overheating. Reason: failure of the viscosity coupling, or dirt getting into the gap between the cooling radiator and the air intercooler.
  • Engine knock. Cause: breakdown of the turbocharger oil drain pipe, resulting in oil leakage. The tube breaks due to vibration.

Regarding the question, what oil is best for a gazelle? The manufacturer gives clear recommendations. The viscosity of the oil must be at least 5W-40, 15W-40, it must be changed every 15,000 km. In cold weather, it is better to give preference to 5W oil, in summer 15W. When using low quality fuel, the oil must be changed more often.

1. If noticeable noises and knocks appear in a running engine, you should find out the cause of their occurrence and do not operate the engine until the malfunction is eliminated.

In a cold engine, after starting, knocking noises from valve lifters and hydraulic tensioners may occur.

As the engine warms up to operating temperature, but no more than 30 minutes later, the knocking noise should disappear.

2. Do not allow the engine to overheat. When the coolant overheating warning light comes on, you should immediately stop the engine, identify and eliminate the cause of the overheating.

3. It is not allowed to operate the engine with the emergency oil pressure warning light on.

This will lead to scuffing of the crankshaft and camshaft bearings and failure of the gas distribution mechanism.

Lighting of the indicator is allowed when the engine is running at minimum speed in idle mode and during sudden braking.

4. It is not allowed to operate the engine with the diagnostic lamp on.

A constant light on the lamp indicates a malfunction in the engine control system. It is necessary to diagnose the system and eliminate the malfunction as soon as possible.

Examples of possible causes of engine failure

Cause of malfunction

Elimination method

The engine does not start:

Fuel supply interrupted

Check the fuel pump fuse

Fuel pump does not work

Check the condition of the contacts in the connections of the pump, pump relay and start relay

Disturbed valve timing

Restore phases at a service station

Fuel system pressure reducing valve is faulty

Replace valve

Fuel filter clogged

Replace filter

Ignition system is faulty:

Broken contact in the ignition coil and control unit circuits

Restore contact

The ignition coil has failed

Replace coil

The engine is running erratically:

Water entering the fuel tank

Drain the sediment from the tank

Air leaks through leaks in the intake system, crankcase ventilation or idle air control

Interruptions or failure of one of the cylinders:

Soot on the spark plug or spark plug failure

Clean off carbon deposits or replace spark plug

Injector contact is broken or the injector is faulty

Restore contact or replace injector

Spark plug tip broken

Replace tip

The control unit is faulty

Replace block

Interruptions or failure of two cylinders:

Ignition coil is faulty

Replace coil

The control unit is faulty

Replace block

High crankshaft speed in idle mode on a warm engine:

Leaking connections between the crankcase ventilation system hoses and the idle air control system

Eliminate leaks in connections

The contact of the idle speed regulator is broken or the regulator is faulty

Restore contact or replace regulator

Contact of engine control system sensors is broken or sensors fail

Restore contact or replace faulty sensors

Increased toxicity of exhaust gases:

CO regulation is broken

Lapping valves

Replace caps

CO regulation is broken

Adjust the CO content with the adjusting screw on the mass air flow sensor

Valve tightness is broken

Lapping valves

Worn oil seals

Replace caps

The contact of the coolant temperature sensor is broken or the sensor is faulty

Restore contact or replace sensor

Wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group

Repair the engine

The engine does not develop full power:

Air filter dirty

Replace filter element

Fuel filter clogged

Replace filter

Air throttle valve does not open fully

Adjust the damper drive

Decreased fuel pump performance

Replace the pump

Engine overheating:

The tension of the water pump and generator drive belt is loose

Adjust belt tension

Thermostat is faulty

Replace thermostat

Insufficient amount of liquid in the engine cooling system

Add coolant

Severely dirty radiator

Flush the radiator with jet water

The electric fan is faulty

Check the fan motor, sensor and relay. Replace faulty components

Water pump is faulty

Replace the pump

Low oil pressure:

Faulty or clogged oil pump pressure relief valve

Wash valve parts or replace faulty parts

Engine overheating

Eliminate the cause of overheating

Wear of oil pump parts

Replace the pump

Wear of main bearing shells

Replace earbuds

Increased oil consumption:

Worn or coked piston rings

Repair the engine

The crankcase ventilation system is broken

Wash system parts

Worn oil seals

Replace caps

Oil leakage through gaskets and seals

Eliminate leaks, replace gaskets and seals if necessary

Knock - in the engine:

The hydraulic pusher has failed

Replace the hydraulic pusher

The hydraulic chain tensioner has failed

Replace hydraulic tensioner

Worn connecting rod and piston group

Repair the engine

Chain tensioner shoe worn

Replace shoe

Troubleshooting

A description of the diagnostics of electronic control systems and fault codes are given in the Chapter Engine electrical systems.

This section offers the simplest scheme for identifying the causes of malfunctions and failures occurring in vehicle components and systems. Failures and their possible causes are divided into groups based on their relationship to certain components or systems of the vehicle, such as the engine, cooling system, etc., in addition, the text provides links to chapters and sections related to these problems.

Remember that successful completion of the search for the causes of a malfunction is determined by the integrity of a complex of good knowledge and a patient, systematic approach to investigating the problem. You should always move from simple to complex, carry each check to its logical conclusion and try not to miss obvious facts - anyone can forget to fill the fuel tank or leave the lights on at night.

Finally, you should always try to get a clear picture of the development of the malfunction and take appropriate steps to prevent relapse. If electrical equipment failure occurs due to poor contact quality, at the same time check the condition of all other contacts and electrical connectors of the system. If the same fuse has blown several times in a row, there is no point in further replacing it - try to find out the cause of the failure. Remember that the failure of a minor component may be a sign of a malfunction of a more important component or entire system.

Engine

Mandatory conditions for starting any gasoline engine are the correct supply of the air-fuel mixture to the cylinders and timely sparking at the spark plugs.

First of all, you should make sure that the fuel supply is working properly.

To determine whether a spark is produced, remove the spark plugs, insert them into the tips and apply them individually to the ground. Do not hold the wire or tip with your hands; use insulated pliers. Ask an assistant to start the engine. If there is no spark, try to determine the cause of the failure.

The engine does not turn over when trying to start it

  1. The battery is low or faulty. If the wire ends are not oxidized and are securely attached to the battery terminals, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position, then turn on the headlights and/or windshield wipers - if they do not function, the battery is discharged.
  2. The transmission is not positioned accurately in the “P” position.
  3. The starter gear is jammed in the drive disk ring gear.
  4. The starter traction relay is faulty.
  5. The starter is faulty.
  6. The ignition switch is faulty.

The engine turns over but does not start

  1. The startup is not performed correctly. Act in accordance with Section Starting the engine and starting to move.
  2. The engine immobilizer is faulty or not disabled.
  3. The fuel pump emergency switch is faulty.
  4. The fuel tank is empty, or
  5. The air filter is very dirty. There are vacuum leaks in the air supply elements and malfunctions in the fuel injection and ignition control system.
  6. Low battery (engine cranks too slowly).
  7. The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire ends on them are loose.
  8. The fuel pump is faulty or its relay is damaged - check by ear that the pump turns on when the ignition is turned on.
  9. Ignition system components are damaged or excessively wet.
  10. The spark plugs are worn or faulty, or the spark plug gap is incorrectly set.
  11. Open circuit in the starting system.
  12. The electrical wiring of the ignition coil is broken or disconnected, or the wires are loosened at the coil terminals.
  13. The fuse of the engine control unit is damaged, any of the sensors of the engine control system is faulty.
  14. Low compression pressure.

The starter operates without cranking the engine

  1. The starter gear is jammed.

Difficulty starting a cold engine

see also A cold engine starts poorly and runs unstably.

  1. Low battery level.

Difficulty starting a hot engine

see also A warm engine starts poorly and runs unstably.

  1. The air filter is clogged.
  2. Components of the power supply system or electrical equipment are faulty.
  3. Fuel is not reaching the injectors.
  4. Insufficient compression in the cylinders.

The starter engages too noisily or is difficult

  1. The teeth of the starter gear or drive ring are worn or damaged.
  2. The starter mounting bolts are missing or not tightened sufficiently.

The engine starts but immediately stalls

  1. The engine immobilizer is faulty.
  2. The electrical wiring is faulty, or the wires are loose at the terminals of the ignition coil or generator.
  3. Components of the power supply system or electrical equipment are faulty.
  4. The basic settings of the engine control unit (ECM) have been violated.
  5. There is damage in the exhaust system and reduction of exhaust gas toxicity (EG).

The stability of the engine at idle speed is impaired

  1. There are losses of vacuum. Make sure that the fasteners are tightened securely, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the engine running with a stethoscope or a piece of fuel hose - a hissing sound indicates a leak. Using a soapy solution for testing is equally effective.
  2. The patency of the valve of the controlled crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is impaired.
  3. The passage of the air filter is impaired.
  4. The fuel pump does not supply enough fuel to the injectors.
  5. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket - measure the compression in the engine cylinders (see Chapter Engine).
  6. The working projections of the camshaft cams are worn.

There are misfires in the cylinders at idle speed

  1. The spark plugs are worn or dirty or the spark plug gap is incorrectly set.
  2. Poor quality fuel has been filled, or the flow of the fuel filter has been compromised.
  3. There are vacuum losses in the intake manifold or through hose connections.
  4. The engine control system is malfunctioning.

There are misfires in the operation of the engine cylinders when the car is moving in gear

  1. The fuel filter is clogged or the power system is dirty.
  2. There is a malfunction of the power system components or electrical equipment.
  3. The I/O wiring is faulty.
  4. Components of the exhaust gas emission control system are faulty.
  5. Low or different compression in the cylinders.
  6. The ignition system is faulty.
  7. There are vacuum losses on the throttle body, intake manifold or through vacuum hoses.

The engine stalls spontaneously

  1. The idle speed adjustment is broken.
  2. The passage of the fuel filter is impaired, or moisture or dirt has entered the power system.
  3. There is a failure of power system components/information sensors.
  4. Components of exhaust gas emission reduction systems are faulty.
  5. The spark plugs are faulty or dirty or the spark plug gap is incorrectly set.
  6. There are vacuum losses on the throttle body or through the vacuum hoses.

The engine does not develop full power

  1. There is a malfunction of the power system components or electrical equipment.
  2. The air cleaner is clogged.
  3. The spark plugs are faulty or the spark plug gap is incorrectly set.
  4. The ignition coil is faulty.
  5. The ATF level has dropped (see Chapter Vehicle settings and routine maintenance).
  6. The transmission is slipping.
  7. The fuel filter is clogged and/or dirt/moisture has entered the power system.
  8. Poor quality fuel filled.
  9. Low or different compression in the cylinders.

There are popping noises in the intake system or shots in the exhaust system

  1. The functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment is impaired.
  2. There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system (destruction of the spark plug insulators or damage to the I/O wires).
  3. The fuel injection system needs adjustment, or its components are excessively worn.
  4. There are vacuum losses on the throttle body, intake manifold or through vacuum hoses.
  5. Valves jam.
  6. The order of connecting the I/O wires is incorrect.

Detonation sounds occur when accelerating or uphill

  1. Poor quality fuel filled.
  2. Components of the power supply system or electrical equipment are faulty.
  3. The wrong type of spark plugs are installed.
  4. The basic ECM settings are violated.
  5. The knock sensor is faulty.
  6. There are losses of vacuum.

The engine continues to run after turning the key to the "OFF" position

  1. Idle speed is excessively high.
  2. There is a malfunction of electrical equipment or components of the engine control system.
  3. The EVAP canister purge valve is faulty.
  4. High engine operating temperature (coolant level has dropped, the thermostat is faulty, the radiator is clogged or the water pump is faulty).
  5. The seal of the injectors is broken.

Engine electrical equipment

Reduced capacity or insufficient battery charge

  1. The alternator drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is incorrect.
  2. The electrolyte level is insufficient or the battery is very discharged.
  3. The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire ends on them are loose.
  4. The generator does not provide the required charging current.
  5. Open circuit in the charging circuit wiring circuit.
  6. A short to ground in the electrical wiring creates a constant leakage of the current generated by the battery.
  7. There is an internal battery defect.

The charging indicator lamp does not go out when the speed increases

  1. Drive belt tension is loose.
  2. The voltage regulator and/or generator is damaged. Disconnect the wire (D+) from the back of the generator and turn the ignition on. Next, check the condition of the generator voltage regulator.
  3. The generator brushes are worn out.
  4. The wire between the generator and the voltage regulator is damaged.

The charging indicator lamp does not light up when the key is turned to the “ON” position

  1. The control lamp has failed.
  2. The generator is faulty.
  3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, wiring inside the instrument cluster, or lamp socket.

The charging indicator lamp does not go out when the key is turned to the “OFF” position

  1. Diodes are broken.
  • If the starter does not turn, you should first make sure that there is voltage at terminal No. 50 of the traction relay (minimum 10 V). If the results are negative, check the condition of the electrical wiring of the starter current circuit.
  • To check that the starter operates properly when the battery is at full voltage, follow these steps:
    • Without engaging the gears, turn the key to the “ON” position;
    • Jumper terminals 30 and 50 of the starter with a wire with a cross-section of at least 4 mm 2.
  • If the starter works flawlessly, the cause of the malfunction should be sought in the wires to the starter. If the starter does not work, it should be checked in the removed state.

The starter does not rotate when the key is turned to the “START” position

  1. The battery is low.
  2. Jumper terminals 30 and 50 of the starter: if the starter rotates, check wire 50 connected to the ignition switch for an open, and also evaluate the condition of the starter switch.
  3. The ground wire is broken or the quality of its terminal connection is poor.
  4. Weakening of the current due to poor quality or oxidation of contact connections.
  5. There is no voltage at terminal 50 of the traction relay as a result of a break in the wiring or damage to the starter switch.

The starter rotates slowly and does not turn the crankshaft

  1. The battery is low.
  2. Filled with summer oil.
  3. The passage of current is difficult due to poor-quality contacts.
  4. The carbon brushes do not adhere to the commutator, are stuck in the guides, are worn, broken, oily or dirty.
  5. Insufficient distance between brushes and commutator.
  6. The collector is grooved or burnt and oily.
  7. There is no voltage at terminal 50 (minimum 8 V).
  8. The bearing is broken.
  9. The traction relay is faulty.

The starter “grabs”, but only provides a jerky cranking of the engine

  1. Gear drive is faulty.
  2. The gear is dirty.
  3. The gear ring of the drive disk is damaged.

Starter gear does not disengage from flywheel/drive ring gear

  1. Gear drive components are dirty or damaged.
  2. The traction relay is faulty.
  3. The return spring has weakened or broken.

The starter continues to operate after the ignition key is released

  1. The traction relay is jammed - immediately turn off the ignition and replace the traction relay.
  2. The ignition switch does not turn off - disconnect the battery, replace the switch.

Supply system

Excessive fuel consumption

  1. The air filter is dirty or clogged.
  2. The tire inflation pressure is insufficient or the wrong size tires are installed.
  3. The engine has mechanical damage. Check compression and, if necessary, make appropriate repairs.
  4. Idle speed and maximum crankshaft speed are excessively high.
  5. Malfunctions of power system components, electrical equipment or electronic controls.
  6. Leaks in the air intake system.
  7. Damage to the exhaust system and reduction of exhaust toxicity.

There are fuel leaks and/or the smell of gasoline

  1. There are leaks in the fuel supply lines or ventilation lines.
  2. Fuel tank is full. Refuel only until the gun automatically turns off.
  3. There are leaks/evaporation from the lines of the power supply and emission control systems.

Engine won't start

  1. When the starter is turned on, the fuel pump does not work (no operating noise is heard). Lightly tap the pump body to release the stuck part. Check that the voltage supply to the pump is working correctly (check that the fuse is working properly and that the terminals of the corresponding electrical wiring are securely fastened).
  2. The fuel pump relay is faulty.
  3. There is no signal from the ignition sensor or ECT sensor. Check the condition of its electrical wiring, poll the OBD II system memory.
  4. The fuel lines are damaged, clogged or leaking, and the hoses are defective.
  5. The fuel filter is clogged.
  6. Vacuum pipelines are damaged or there is a violation of their tightness.
  7. The fuel pressure regulator is damaged - check the residual pressure.
  8. The throttle position sensor (TPS) is damaged.
  9. No power to ECM.
  10. The fuel tank ventilation is clogged, the filter in the tank is clogged.

A cold engine starts poorly and runs unsteadily

  1. The CO content does not meet the regulatory requirements - take the appropriate measurement, check the idle speed.
  2. The ECT sensor is faulty.
  3. The fuel pressure does not meet the required value.
  4. As a result of a leak, excess air is sucked into the intake tract.

A warm engine starts poorly and runs unsteadily

  1. The air intake system is leaking. Check the intake system. To do this, leave the engine idling and moisten the seals and connections on the intake tract with gasoline. If the speed increases briefly, repair the leaks.
  2. The check valve of the fuel pump is damaged.
  3. Leaks in the fuel system.
  4. Increased fuel pressure in the power system.
  5. EVAP system malfunction.
  6. The fuel return line to the tank is clogged or kinked.
  7. Injector valves are stuck. Check the injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.
  8. There is no signal from the Hall ignition sensor or coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the relevant wiring, interrogate the OBD II system.
  9. As a result of a leak, excess air is sucked into the intake tract.
  10. The TPS sensor is damaged.
  11. No power to ECM.

The engine runs intermittently

  1. The fuel pump wiring connections become loose from time to time. Check the wiring connectors and fuses of the fuel pump, MAF sensor and fuel pump relay.
  2. Low quality fuel, formation of vapor locks.
  3. Weak fuel supply.
  4. The fuel filter is faulty.
  5. The fuel pump is faulty.
  6. Injectors are faulty.
  7. The lambda probe is faulty, there is a violation in the mixture quality control circuit, or the lambda probe is not heated.
  8. TPS is faulty.
  9. The exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe is damaged (there are exhaust gas leaks).
  10. EVAP system malfunction.
  11. Injector valves are stuck. Check the injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.
  12. There is no signal from the Hall ignition sensor or the ECT sensor. Check wiring, interrogate ECM memory for fault codes.
  13. As a result of a leak, excess air is sucked into the intake tract.
  14. Damaged or leaking vacuum lines
  15. The pressure regulator is damaged - check the residual pressure.
  16. No power to ECM.

The engine runs intermittently in transient modes and in idle mode

  1. The air intake system is leaking. Check the intake system connections. Start the engine and moisten the connections of the suction tract components with gasoline. If the engine speed increases briefly, eliminate the cause of the leak.
  2. Idle speed adjustment is incorrect. Check TPS and lambda regulation.

Hot engine won't start

  1. Incorrect CO content adjustment. Check CO content and idle speed.
  2. The pressure in the fuel system is too high - check the fuel pressure, replace the pressure regulator if necessary.
  3. The return line between the pressure regulator and the fuel tank is clogged or bent. Clean or replace the pipeline.
  4. The engine temperature sensor is faulty.
  5. The tightness of the power supply system is broken.
  6. The tightness of the intake air tract is broken.

Lubrication system

The indicator lamp does not light up when the key is turned to the “ON” position.

  1. The oil pressure sensor is faulty. Turn on the ignition, disconnect the wire from the sensor and short it to ground - if the lamp lights up, replace the sensor.
  2. There is no voltage supplied to the sensor, the contacts are corroded - check the condition of the corresponding electrical wiring.
  3. The control lamp is faulty.
  4. The instrument cluster is faulty.

The warning light does not go out after starting the engine

  1. Oil is overheated. If the warning light goes out after applying gas, nothing needs to be done.

The warning light does not go out after applying gas, or lights up while driving

  1. The oil level has dropped.
  2. There is a short circuit in the oil level sensor wiring.
  3. The sensor is faulty.

Oil pressure too low at all speeds

  1. The oil level has dropped.
  2. The oil intake strainer in the oil pan is clogged.
  3. Worn oil pump.
  4. The crankshaft bearings are damaged.

Oil pressure too low at low speeds

  1. The pressure relief valve is stuck open due to contamination.

Oil pressure too high at engine speeds above 2000 rpm

  1. The pressure relief valve does not open due to contamination.

Cooling system

Overheat

  1. The coolant level has dropped.
  2. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged or its tension adjustment is incorrect.
  3. The internal radiator channels are clogged or the radiator grill is dirty (blocked).
  4. Thermostat is faulty.
  5. Broken or cracked fan blades.
  6. The fan sensor switch is faulty.
  7. The coolant temperature gauge is faulty.
  8. The water pump is faulty.
  9. The radiator cap does not hold pressure - check the cap under pressure.

Hypothermia

  1. Thermostat is faulty.
  2. Temperature meter readings are inaccurate.

External coolant leaks

  1. The hoses are damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material or their fastening on the fittings has become loose.
  2. The water pump seals are damaged and coolant is leaking through the inspection hole in the pump housing.
  3. There are leaks from the internal channels of the radiator or reservoir.
  4. There are leaks through the engine drain plug or the release plugs of the water galleries.

Internal coolant leaks

  1. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket - perform a pressure check of the cooling system.
  2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the head casting.

Loss of coolant occurs

  1. There is an excessive amount of coolant in the system.
  2. The coolant boils away as a result of engine overheating.
  3. There are internal or external coolant leaks.
  4. The radiator cap is faulty - pressure check the cap.

Coolant circulation is disrupted

  1. The water pump is not functioning properly. The easiest way to verify that the pump is functioning is to pinch the upper radiator hose while the engine is idling. If you feel a push of liquid inside the hose when you release the hose, the pump is functioning properly.
  2. The flow of the cooling system is impaired - wash it and fill it with fresh fluid. If necessary, remove the radiator and backflush it.
  3. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged or its tension adjustment is incorrect.
  4. Thermostat is stuck.

Heater

Heater fan does not work

  1. The fan motor fuse is faulty.
  2. The fan switch is faulty - check if voltage is supplied to the pre-resistors, remove and check the fan switch.
  3. The electric fan motor is faulty. Check whether voltage is supplied to it when the ignition is on and the fan switch is closed - if voltage is supplied, replace the motor.

The heater fan does not work on one of the stages

  1. The pre-resistor is faulty.

The heater does not turn off with the regulator

  1. The switch is faulty.
  2. The adjusting mixing valve cables are damaged or poorly movable.

Heating power too low

  1. The coolant level is insufficient.
  2. The heater control handles move hard - check the control assembly and, if necessary, replace the corresponding drive cable.

Noise in the heater fan area

  1. Dirt and leaves have gotten into it - remove the fan and clean it, clean the air channel.
  2. The impeller is out of balance and the bearing is damaged.

Automatic transmission (AT)

Due to the complexity of the AT design, it is advisable to carry out diagnostics of its malfunctions and repair of components in a car service workshop.

Common problems associated with the operation of the switching mechanism

  1. Failures associated with a violation of the shift rod adjustment include the following:
    • The engine can be started in transmission positions other than “P” and “N”;
    • The transmission position indicator readings differ from the actual gear selected;
    • The car moves with the transmission set to position “P” or “N”;
    • Gear shifts are difficult or random.
  2. Adjust the gear shift rod.

The transmission slips, shifts with difficulty, makes strange noises, or does not allow the vehicle to move when placed in one of the gears

  1. There are many possible causes of the problems listed in the title, but only one of them falls under the competence of an amateur mechanic - incorrect transmission fluid (ATF) level.
  2. Before taking the car to a car service workshop, check the ATF level and condition. Adjust the ATF level or change it.

There are transmission fluid (ATF) leaks

  1. ATF is dark red in color. Traces of its leaks should not be confused with traces of motor oil, which can be carried onto the transmission housing by the incoming air flow.
  2. To identify and locate the source of the leak, first remove all traces of dirt and grease from the transmission boat. Use a suitable degreaser and/or steam clean. Then take the car for a short drive at low speed (so that traces of the leak are not carried away by the oncoming flow far from its source). Stop, jack up the vehicle and use a visual inspection to determine the source of the leak. Most often these are:
  • Transmission housing pan, - tighten the mounting bolts and/or replace the pan gasket;
  • ATF filling tube, - replace the rubber seal where the tube enters the transmission housing;
  • ATF lines - tighten fittings or replace lines;
  • Vent tube - transmission is overfilled and/or water has entered it.

ATF is brown or smells burning

  1. Insufficient ATF level.

The kickdown mode does not turn on when the pedal is fully pressed (downshift is not engaged)

  1. ATF level has dropped.
  2. The engine control system is faulty.
  3. The sensor switch or its wiring is faulty.
  4. The adjustment of the selector drive cable is incorrect.

The engine does not start in any selector position or starts in positions other than “P” and “R”

  1. The adjustment of the start permission sensor-switch is broken.
  2. The selector cable adjustment is incorrect.

The transmission slips, jerks, or makes noises when changing gears. The car does not move when the “D” or “R” modes are turned on

  1. ATF level has dropped.
  2. The sensor or its wiring is faulty.
  3. The engine control system is not functioning properly.

Extraneous noise

  1. Normal road noise cannot be corrected.
  2. Tire noise - check the condition of the treads and tire inflation pressure.
  3. The wheel bearings are worn or damaged, or their tightening force has weakened.

Vibrations

  1. Check the condition of the wheel bearings by alternately jacking up the appropriate corner of the vehicle and rotating the wheel by hand. Listen to the sounds coming from the bearing. Remove the bearings and check their condition.

Oil leaks

  1. The differential seals are damaged.

Brake system

Increased brake pedal travel

  1. The working circuit of the brake tract is damaged - check the system for leaks.

The brake pedal springs and falls

  1. Air has entered the brake tract; bleed the system.
  2. The fluid level in the GTZ reservoir has dropped - make the appropriate adjustments and bleed the system.
  3. Formation of steam bubbles. It appears mainly when there is a heavy load on the brakes. Replace the brake fluid, remove air from the system.

Reduced braking effect, pedal falls

  1. The tightness of the hydraulic path is broken.
  2. The cuffs in the master or working brake cylinders are damaged.

Poor braking despite high pedal pressure

  1. The brake linings are oily.
  2. Inappropriate or hardened pads are installed.
  3. The brake booster is faulty.
  4. Brake pads are worn.

When braking, the car pulls to the side

  1. Tire inflation pressure is not correct.
  2. The treads are worn unevenly.
  3. The brake linings are oily.
  4. Different brake pads are installed on the same axle.
  5. The brake pads are excessively worn.
  6. The caliper shafts are dirty.
  7. The pads are worn unevenly.

Spontaneous inhibition

  1. The compensation hole in the main brake cylinder (MBC) is clogged.

Brakes get hot while driving

  1. The compensation hole in the master brake cylinder is clogged.
  2. The clearance between the drive rod and the GTZ piston is insufficient.

The brakes are shaking

  1. The wrong type of pads are installed.
  2. The brake disc is corroded in places.

The brake pads do not move away from the brake disc, the wheel is difficult to turn by hand

  1. Corrosion in brake caliper cylinders. Repair or replace the caliper.

Uneven pad wear

  1. The wrong type of pads are installed. Replace the pads.
  2. The calipers are damaged by corrosion - replace them.
  3. The piston stroke is obstructed.
  4. The tightness of the brake system path is broken.

Wedge-shaped brake pad wear

  1. The calipers are damaged by corrosion - replace them.
  2. The piston is not functioning properly.

Brakes squeak

  1. Often the reason is atmospheric influences (air humidity). If the squeak appears after a long period of parking in high humidity and then disappears, you don’t need to do anything.
  2. The wrong type of pads are installed.
  3. The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper.
  4. The caliper shaft is dirty.
  5. The pad mounting springs are bent.
  6. Compression springs stretched.

Brake pedal pulsation

  1. A sign of normal ABS operation.
  2. Excessive brake disc runout.
  3. The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper.

The ABS warning light comes on while driving

  1. Insufficient supply voltage (below 10 V). Check the voltage. Check to see if the alternator warning light goes out after the engine starts. If everything is OK, check the alternator drive belt.

Suspension and steering

The car pulls to one side when driving

  1. Tires are unevenly inflated.
  2. There is a tire defect.
  3. The front wheel alignment angles need to be adjusted.
  4. The front brakes are stuck.

There are jerks, jerking or vibrations

  1. The wheel balancing is out of balance or the discs are out of shape.
  2. The wheel bearings are worn out, their tightening force has weakened or the adjustment is incorrect.
  3. Shock absorbers or other suspension components are worn or damaged.

There is excessive rocking of the car/"burrowing" of its nose when turning or braking

  1. Suspension struts are faulty.
  2. Suspension components are damaged.

Steering wheel turns too hard

  1. The fluid level in the power steering (power steering) reservoir has dropped excessively.
  2. Tires are incorrectly inflated.
  3. The steering joints are not sufficiently lubricated.
  4. The adjustment of the front wheel alignment angles is incorrect.
  5. The power steering does not develop the required power.

Excessive steering play occurs

  1. The tightening force of the front wheel bearings has weakened.
  2. Suspension or steering components are excessively worn.

Power steering does not develop proper force

  1. The power steering pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is incorrect.
  2. The power steering fluid level has dropped excessively.
  3. The passage of hoses or lines of the hydraulic system is impaired.
  4. There is air in the power steering - bleed the system.

There is excessive tread wear (not in just one area)

  1. Tires are incorrectly inflated.
  2. Wheel balancing is off.
  3. Wheel rims are damaged.
  4. Suspension or steering components are excessively worn.

There is excessive wear on the outer edge of the treads.

  1. Tires are incorrectly inflated.
  2. Turns are made too sharply.
  3. The adjustment of the front wheel alignment angles is incorrect (excessive toe-in).
  4. The suspension arm is bent or twisted.

There is excessive wear on the treads along the inner edge

  1. Tires are incorrectly inflated.
  2. The adjustment of the front wheel alignment angles (divergence) is incorrect.
  3. Steering components are damaged or loose.

There is local tread wear

  1. Wheel balancing is off.
  2. Discs are damaged or bent.
  3. There is a tire defect.

Defects in windshield wiper blades

Slippage

  1. The rubber working elements are dirty.
  2. The edges of the brushes are frayed, the rubber working elements are worn out or torn.

In the cleaning field, the remaining water immediately collects into drops

  1. The windshield is dirty with varnish polish or oil.

The brush cleans one-sidedly - one way is good, the other is not.

  1. The rubber working element has one-sided wear.
  2. The windshield wiper arm is twisted and the blade does not adhere properly to the glass.

Uncleaned surfaces

  1. The reliability of fixing the working element in the brush frame is broken.
  2. The brush does not adhere evenly to the glass.
  3. The pressing force of the lever is too low - lightly lubricate the hinges of the wiper arms and springs or install a new lever.

Tire defects

Heavy tire wear on both sides of the working surface

  1. Tire pressure too low.

Heavy tire wear in the middle of the running surface along the entire tread circumference

  1. Tire pressure too high.

Uneven tread wear

  1. Static and dynamic imbalance of the wheel, possibly due to excessive lateral runout of the disk, too much play in the bearing joints.

Uneven wear in the middle of the tread

  1. Static wheel imbalance, possibly due to excessive vertical runout.

Severe wear of individual areas in the middle of the tread surface

  1. The result of sudden braking.

Sawtooth tread wear, often accompanied by a tear in the tire fabric that is invisible from the outside

  1. Vehicle overload. Check the condition of the inner walls of the tires.

Rubber tabs on the side edges of the tread (scaly wear)

  1. The wheel alignment angles are incorrect.
  2. Tires are worn out.
  3. Shock absorbers/torsion springs/strut assemblies are faulty.

Burrs on one side of the front wheel tread

  1. Wheel toe adjustment is incorrect.
  2. Tires are worn out.
  3. Frequent movement on uneven surfaces. Fast movement on turns.

Cord breaks. At first visible only from the inside

  1. Driving over sharp rocks, tire impacts, etc. at high speed.

One-sided wear of the tread surface

  1. Check the camber adjustment.
  2. There is a malfunction of the ABS - check the condition and reliability of the clamp connection of the return pump ground (in the hydraulic modulator).

"Gazelle" is a car that is extremely in demand and popular in our country. On its basis, several different modifications were designed and manufactured, each of which is still used in different parts of our country and abroad.

The popularity of the Gazelle and Sobol, as well as other modifications, is due to their outstanding technical characteristics, reliability, long service life, and availability of spare parts. Indeed, today it is very simple.

If you are the owner of a Gazelle or Sobol car, it will be useful to know the main faults of the Gazelle and in particular the faults of the 405 Gazelle engine. This will be discussed in this article.

Basic faults

Despite the fact that the Gazelle is considered a durable truck, harsh operating conditions and poor fuel negatively affect the 405 engine for the Gazelle, as well as other elements of the vehicle. To ensure that Gazelle repairs or Sobol repairs do not have to be done constantly, you need to know the main faults of the car. Among the most vulnerable nodes are:

  • chassis;
  • engine
  • body;
  • fuel system.

Repair of “Sable” or “Gazelle” will be needed in the following cases:

  • knocks and noises occur;
  • power dropped sharply;
  • oil pressure has decreased;
  • consumption of fuel and other consumables has increased.

It should be noted that most of the signs can be heard when the ZMZ-405 engine is running. In extreme cases, replacement will be required. To prevent major problems, you should periodically diagnose Gazelle faults. In most cases, identifying the cause of the malfunction and performing qualified repairs on Gazelle-Business can only be done in a specialized car service center.

Features of malfunctions and repair of individual vehicle components

Let's consider the malfunctions and repair features of the most wear-prone components. Among them we highlight three:

  1. Chassis.
  2. Engine.
  3. Body.

What do you need to know about them?

Chassis

Repairing the Gazelle on your own mainly needs to be done due to a malfunction of the vehicle's chassis. It should be noted that when the vehicle is overloaded above standard values, the Gazelle's chassis wears out much faster. Among the most problematic details are:

  • springs;
  • spring bolts;
  • springs and leaf springs;
  • other fasteners.

If such breakdowns occur and the chassis of the Gazelle is not repaired, the speed, controllability, and smoothness of the ride are significantly reduced. To avoid such situations, try:

  1. Overload the machine less.
  2. Regularly diagnose the Sable or Gazelle for faults.
  3. If possible, drive off-road as little as possible.

As for repairing a Gazelle car, most large components cannot be restored. All that remains is to replace the failed part. Various small parts can be replaced, including hubs, bearings, kingpins, nuts, studs, bolts, etc.

Engine 405 "Gazelle"

The engine for the Gazelle car is resistant to overloads and works quite well. However, in some cases it is necessary to repair the 405 Gazelle engine. It should be noted that repairing the Sobol engine yourself is problematic. This is due to the fact that you need to constantly move it to diagnose the engine. You can't do without special taps.

However, there are problems that you can easily deal with on your own. It often happens that a Gazelle with a 405 engine stalls. The cause may be a broken contact to ground. You need to check the wiring and, if necessary, restore it. Without special knowledge, there is a risk of simply causing harm, and complex repairs to the Sobol engine will be required.

Among the most common cases when diagnosing a Gazelle malfunction, various little things can be identified, including a clogged filter, problems with the coolant, etc. Here is a small list of possible faults:

  1. In cold weather, the internal combustion engine does not start - warm up the system first.
  2. You hear popping noises from the exhaust system or carburetor when you turn on the engine - inspect the air duct and fuel line filters and clean them.

In case of more serious problems, it is not recommended to completely disassemble the unit, as this can lead to more serious malfunctions of the Gazelle engine. The same applies to the repair of power steering, as well as other complex components.

Body of "Sable" and "Gazelle"

You can also deal with the appearance of the body yourself. Among the works it is worth highlighting:

  1. Partial replacement of parts - doors, mirrors, awning and its frame.
  2. Painting parts - we purchase paint of the desired color, prepare the part and carefully paint it in a ventilated room.
  3. Polishing - restores the anti-corrosion protection of external body elements.
  4. Welding is necessary when cracks appear and is performed with subsequent processing of the seams and painting.

Everything is quite simple and accessible to almost everyone.

It should be noted that diagnosing faults in Sobol and Gazelle is a fairly simple process. To do this, you need to know the basic features of the car, the principles of its design and the most common faults. We hope that the information described above will help you a little with this and repairing the Gazelle with your own hands will become easier!

During operation, the Gazelle may require repairs. To remove most of the defects, it is necessary to take the car to a service center, but a car enthusiast can do light repairs and initial diagnostics without the help of others. Frequent problems, methods and prerequisites for their elimination are discussed here.

Main faults The crankshaft does not turn, there are several options:

Most likely the battery is dead. It is necessary to charge the battery, first make sure that there is no oxidation on the terminals and that the terminals are tightly seated.

It will be much more difficult if the starter fails. In this situation, a long repair is likely, and if the bearing bushings and armature shaft journals are severely worn, the starter will have to be replaced. In this case, a malfunction will be indicated by noise when the starter operates.

If the engine stalls at idle or is unstable, it means the fuel filter is faulty. Surely it needs to be changed. Do not ignore the fuel pump, which does not produce suitable pressure in the system. It is also necessary to check the spark plugs, adjust the gap between the electrodes or change them. In some cases, it will be useful to diagnose the ignition control unit, but if it is faulty, then you can get to a car service center without the help of others, to do this, apply plus 12V to the electric valve.

Often the reason for overheating of the engine of a Gazelle car is when the electric fan of the cooling system does not turn on. You need to diagnose its circuit and check the thermal switch. But to find the preconditions for overheating, you need to check the antifreeze level. It happens that an air lock appears in the cooling system; it must be expelled; to do this, it is necessary to compress the hoses and open the radiator cap. If you park the car so that the front of the car is higher compared to the rear, you can drive onto the overpass with the wheels of the front axle or apply the gas slightly with the radiator cap open.

If noise appears in the box, then you need to check the oil level in it; if necessary, add oil to the specified level. From time to time the box synchronizers should be changed. The fact that their service life is over will be indicated by spontaneous switching off of gears and a crunching sound when engaging a gear.

Jerking when starting, clutch slipping, and rattling indicate that the friction linings on the driven disk are worn out. If noise appears when the clutch is engaged, it means the release bearing is damaged. If the clutch pedal does not return to its initial position after being released, it means the return spring is broken.

When starting the engine with the starter, the crankshaft rotates very slowly or does not rotate at all:

  • starter damage;
  • battery terminals are not securely connected;
  • battery is low.

The crankshaft motor spins, but the engine itself does not start:

  • the hoses of the crankcase ventilation system are leaky;
  • the fuel system hoses are damaged;
  • the ignition system circuits are damaged;
  • there is no fuel.

At idle, the engine is unstable or stops:

  • valve clearances are not adjusted correctly;
  • the fuel mixture is poor in its composition;
  • air leak in the intake manifold;
  • The hoses in the crankcase ventilation system are leaking.

Weak acceleration and the engine is unstable:

  • the air filter is dirty and the valve clearances are poorly adjusted;
  • The fuel mixture is poorly adjusted.

High oil consumption:

  • oil reflective caps are worn out;
  • The cylinder liners and piston rings are worn out.

Mechanical noise is heard when the motor is running:

  • high wear on the motor;
  • valve clearances are poorly adjusted.

Extraneous knocking noises when accelerating:

  • huge release of oil vapors, they enter the ventilation system;
  • carbon deposits in combustion chambers;
  • the engine has overheated;
  • fuel is used with a low octane number.

To remove faults, you should contact a special car service, which has modern equipment for repair and diagnostics and employs experienced mechanics.

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