21.10.2023
What to regulate and with what. Setting up the bike after purchase
Task 1 of 15
1 .
Are the Rules broken in the situations depicted?
Right
f) tow bicycles;
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
d) while driving, hold on to another vehicle;
f) tow bicycles;
Task 2 of 15
2 .
Which cyclist doesn't break the rules?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
b) move on highways and roads for cars, as well as on the roadway if there is a bicycle path nearby;
Task 3 of 15
3 .
Who should give way?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.5. If a bicycle lane crosses a road outside an intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles traveling on the road.
Task 4 of 15
4 .
What loads is a cyclist allowed to carry?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
22. Cargo transportation
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.4. A cyclist may only carry such loads that do not interfere with the operation of the bicycle and do not create obstacles for other road users.
22. Cargo transportation
22.3. Transportation of cargo is permitted provided that it:
b) does not interfere with the stability of the vehicle and does not complicate its control;
Task 5 of 15
5 .
Which cyclists violate the Rules when transporting passengers?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
e) carry passengers on a bicycle (except for children under 7 years old, transported on an additional seat equipped with securely fastened footrests);
Task 6 of 15
6 .
In what order will vehicles pass through the intersection?
Right
16. Driving through intersections
Wrong
16. Driving through intersections
16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.
16.12. At the intersection of equivalent roads, the driver of a non-rail vehicle is obliged to give way to vehicles approaching from the right.
Tram drivers should follow this rule among themselves. At any uncontrolled intersection, a tram, regardless of the direction of its further movement, has an advantage over non-rail vehicles approaching it along an equivalent road.16.14. If the main road at an intersection changes direction, drivers of vehicles moving along it must follow the rules for driving through intersections of equivalent roads.
This rule should be followed among themselves and by drivers driving on secondary roads.Task 7 of 15
7 .
Riding bicycles on sidewalks and pedestrian paths:
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
c) move on sidewalks and pedestrian paths (except for children under 7 years old on children's bicycles under the supervision of adults);
Task 8 of 15
8 .
Who has the right of way when crossing a bike path?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.5. If a bicycle lane crosses a road outside an intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles traveling on the road.
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.5. If a bicycle lane crosses a road outside an intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles traveling on the road.
Task 9 of 15
9 .
What distance should be between groups of cyclists moving in a column?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.3. Cyclists traveling in groups must ride one after another so as not to interfere with other road users. A column of cyclists moving along the roadway must be divided into groups (up to 10 cyclists in a group) with a movement distance between groups of 80-100 m.
Task 10 of 15
10 .
Vehicles will pass through the intersection in the following order
Right
16. Driving through intersections
16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.
Wrong
16. Driving through intersections
16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.
16.13. Before turning left and making a U-turn, the driver of a non-rail vehicle must give way to a tram in the same direction, as well as to vehicles moving on an equivalent road in the opposite direction straight or to the right.
Task 11 of 15
11 .
A cyclist passes an intersection:
Right
16. Driving through intersections
Wrong
8. Traffic regulation
8.3. Traffic controller signals take precedence over traffic light signals and road sign requirements and are mandatory. Traffic lights, other than flashing yellow ones, take precedence over priority road signs. Drivers and pedestrians must comply with the additional requirements of the traffic controller, even if they contradict traffic lights, road signs and markings.
16. Driving through intersections
16.6. When turning left or turning around when the main traffic light is green, the driver of a non-rail vehicle is obliged to give way to a tram in the same direction, as well as to vehicles moving straight in the opposite direction or turning right. Tram drivers should follow this rule among themselves.
Task 12 of 15
12 .
Flashing red signals of this traffic light:
Right
8. Traffic regulation
Wrong
8. Traffic regulation
8.7.6. To regulate traffic at railway crossings, traffic lights with two red signals or one white-lunar and two red ones are used, having the following meanings:
a) flashing red signals prohibit the movement of vehicles through the crossing;
b) a flashing white-lunar signal indicates that the alarm system is working and does not prohibit vehicle movement.
At railway crossings, simultaneously with the prohibitory traffic light signal, an audible signal may be turned on, additionally informing road users that movement through the crossing is prohibited.
Task 13 of 15
13 .
The driver of which vehicle will cross the intersection second?
Right
16. Driving through intersections
16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.
16.14. If the main road at an intersection changes direction, drivers of vehicles moving along it must follow the rules for driving through intersections of equivalent roads.
This rule should be followed among themselves and by drivers driving on secondary roads.
Wrong
16. Driving through intersections
16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.
16.14. If the main road at an intersection changes direction, drivers of vehicles moving along it must follow the rules for driving through intersections of equivalent roads.
This rule should be followed among themselves and by drivers driving on secondary roads.
16 Driving through intersections
Wrong
8. Traffic regulation
8.7.3. Traffic light signals have the following meanings:
A signal in the form of an arrow that allows a left turn also allows a U-turn if it is not prohibited by road signs.
A signal in the form of a green arrow(s) in the additional section(s), switched on together with the green traffic light signal, informs the driver that he has priority in the direction(s) of movement indicated by the arrow(s) over vehicles moving from other directions;
f) a red signal, including a flashing one, or two red flashing signals prohibit movement.
A signal in the form of a green arrow(s) in the additional section(s), together with a yellow or red traffic light signal, informs the driver that movement is permitted in the indicated direction, subject to the unhindered passage of vehicles moving from other directions.
A green arrow on a sign installed at the level of a red traffic light with a vertical arrangement of signals allows movement in the indicated direction when the red traffic light is on from the rightmost lane (or the leftmost lane on one-way roads), subject to the provision of priority in traffic to its other participants moving from other directions to a traffic light signal allowing movement;
16 Driving through intersections
16.9. While driving in the direction of the arrow turned on in the additional section simultaneously with a yellow or red traffic light, the driver must give way to vehicles moving from other directions.
When driving in the direction of the green arrow on the table installed at the level of the red traffic light with vertical signals, the driver must take the extreme right (left) lane and give way to vehicles and pedestrians moving from other directions.
Adjusting speeds on a bicycle is necessary in cases of breakdown, replacement of the main components of the gear shift system, or during assembly of equipment. With proper study of the thematic material, each person can independently adjust the speeds on their bicycle. Such skills need to be improved if a cyclist plans to ride his two-wheeled vehicle for a long time.
The process of setting up the entire shift system begins with the rear derailleur. To adjust the bike, for convenience, it is advisable to turn it over on the handlebars, or fix it on the weight.
How to Adjust Rear Derailleur Speed on a Bicycle
- To adjust the rear derailleur, set the chain to the second sprocket on the front sprocket system. At the rear we place the chain on the smallest sprocket. These movements are made by holding the rear wheel in weight and turning the pedals by hand.
- When switching to a small chainring, problems may arise. The chain does not reach or makes strange sounds - you need to adjust the limiter. There are two bolts behind the switch, each such limiter performs its own function. One marked High (adjusts high gears, on a small sprocket), the other Low (adjusts low gears, on a large sprocket). It happens that there is no marking. Then we focus on the external location of the bolts.
- The High limiter is carefully tightened (fixing the stars of the required size) until the problem disappears (extra sounds, jumps, for example).
- We tighten the Low limiter, also fixing the corresponding stars. With optimal settings, the chain does not jump over the sprocket and does not sound.
- The operation of the front derailleur is checked (the stars click).
- Adjust the tension of the bicycle cable. The regulator responsible for cable tension is located on the shifters, or on the rear derailleur near the cable. If the settings are correct, the entire system should not make any unusual sounds, and there should be no other obvious problems.
How to Adjust Front Derailleur Speed on a Bicycle
- The front derailleur is adjusted in the same way as the rear derailleur. It also has a High and Low control.
- The rear sprocket system switches to a large sprocket. The front star system remains on the middle star. There may be problems with the chain rubbing against the guard. In this case, the Low limiter is adjusted until the problem disappears. You can visually see how this works.
- The High limiter is reconfigured. To do this, on the rear sprockets the chain is dropped onto a small sprocket, and on the front sprockets the largest sprocket is placed.
- If the chain rubs against the protection, we move to adjusting the cable, the regulator of which is located on the steering shifters. The reaction of the system to the movements of the regulator is carefully studied, this will help to better navigate the settings.
- The stars are switched to check for extraneous sounds and unnecessary movements.
How to adjust the speed on a bicycle - chain misalignment
- Occurs due to an incorrect combination of stars during travel, especially uphill. Improper use will not only lead to improper wear of the chain and sprockets, but also to painful knees. Take care of your knees, because the chain and sprockets can be replaced, but the joints cannot be restored!
- Correct combinations of stars: first front star - rear from first to fourth; the second star in front - from the third to the sixth in the back; the third star in front - from the fourth to the smallest star in the back.
The most common reasons that prevent you from changing speed on a bicycle
- Defects on the cable - it may become fluffy.
- The jacket protecting the cable becomes clogged with dirt. Dirt also clogs the chain and rear shifter.
- Changes in the functionality of switches and the cock when dropped (settings failed, bent).
- Play on the rear derailleur.
Unforeseen situations can happen in any cycling conditions. Therefore, you need to prepare ahead of time. Even at home, we study transport, collect the most necessary tools that will be needed on the road in case of a breakdown. Knowledge is power. If you feel like you might have forgotten the material you’ve covered, but still want to ride, make a small printout so you can quickly remember what’s what on the spot. Download videos to your phone! The nuts must always be securely tightened, but not overtightened.
Daily cycling gives a lot of positive emotions, allows you to keep all your muscles in good shape, and has a beneficial effect on the functioning of all body systems. Riding a bike means speed and convenience, because you don’t need to stand in traffic jams, and the route will be much straighter than for a car. Moreover, cycling trips will cost much less than public transport and, even more so, a personal car.
All of the above advantages appear in all their glory if the two-wheeled servant provides 100% comfort and safety to its owner, that is, it is well adjusted in all respects. You can ask a specialist for help with setup, but it is not free, and the specialist himself may be busy or absent. A simpler and more effective option is to set up the bike yourself. It won’t take much time, no difficulties will arise, and invaluable experience will be gained.
Adjustments include adjustments to the positions of the saddle, handlebars, suspension forks and handbrake system. We will learn further about how to consistently bring your two-wheeled vehicle to the desired form.
Settings for road and road bikes
In stores, bicycles usually have standard settings for the “average” person. After purchasing, try to get in and ride right away. So determine whether anything needs to be adjusted at all. The main parameters that affect the comfort of riding are the relative position of the saddle and handlebars. The first thing to adjust is the height and angle of the saddle to the frame.
A common method for determining the optimal saddle height is the “standing leg position.” Determined by the algorithm:
- One pedal is moved to the upper position, the other to the lowest position.
- We stand on the ground, the frame between our legs.
- The leg that touches the bottom pedal should be almost straight.
If it is too bent or barely touches the pedal, the saddle height will increase or decrease accordingly. Why is it important to ensure correct foot position when pedaling? First of all, muscle and knee joint fatigue will decrease, which will allow you to cover distances without interruptions. Torque efficiency will also be higher due to the greater force leverage. True, you should not bring your leg to perfectly straight, otherwise it will be difficult to rotate the pedals.
As for road bicycles, the efficiency of braking with “backward pedals” will also decrease. The height range should vary between the “min” and “max” marks. , pulled out beyond the safe mark, can play a cruel joke on trips!
The optimal saddle position is parallel to the ground. If desired, the cyclist can tilt it forward towards the frame or back, if the bike model allows this. It is worth noting that for road and road bikes it is better to maintain an upright position.
Handlebar height adjustment is calculated relative to the installed saddle. For a city bike it should be at saddle level. This does not mean that it cannot be installed higher or lower, but first you should ride at this height, and only then, if necessary, adjust it to suit you. Your arms must be bent, but not too much, otherwise it will be uncomfortable to control the bicycle.
A different setup is required for a high-speed road bike, where a strictly defined riding position is required. The body of a road cyclist deviates approximately 90 degrees relative to the legs. This means that the handlebars should be lower than the saddle, a distance of a few inches on average.
Landing a road bike on a racing bike
The amount of offset is of great importance. Moving the handlebars too far from the front tube of the frame will force you to literally cling to the handles, which is why your whole body will involuntarily tense. In addition, visibility will deteriorate, since the head will be directed more toward the floor than forward.
A short stem is also bad: straightening the body or bending the spine. As a result, unreasonably high loads, fatigue, and low skating efficiency. The size of the steering stem on adjustable structures is selected exclusively individually, especially on sports bikes for competitions! If the stem is stiff and does not provide an optimal fit, it should be replaced.
How to customize your MTB
Adjusting a mountain bike is different from adjusting a road bike or city bike due to the special fit. In terms of the inclination of the body, it occupies something in between - within 45 degrees relative to the frame and legs. A properly configured saddle and handlebar will not only allow you not to get tired when pedaling, but also withstand long-term vibrations from off-road driving.
Adjusting the height and angle of the saddle. The height is selected according to the same principle as on “asphalt” bikes. The slight difference is that, in addition to the straightened leg, the front of the feet should reach the ground well without additional tilt of the frame. If the leg in the lower position is almost straight, and the feet completely reach the floor, then it is necessary to increase the height by 1 - 1.5 cm.
Since the body of a MTB cyclist has an average inclination, it must be selected accordingly. On adjustable models, the length is selected in such a way that when the hands move, they do not take on all the vibration. Otherwise, fatigue will set in quickly, which will deteriorate ride quality and handling. How to achieve the optimal steering wheel position: height and distance from the frame? Yes, each cyclist will need an individual fit, but there are universal recommendations:
- arms are half bent at the elbows;
- the entire length of the handles is accessible to the palms;
- the body is relaxed, the shoulders are not pulled up.
Mountain bike handlebar with movable stem
When riding mountain bikes, the angle of the saddle is important, as well as the horizontal position. We approach this aspect more carefully: no more than 3 – 5 degrees in one direction or another. Excessive deviation back will cause fatigue in the abdominal muscles and hips, and forward - an unstable position of the pelvis and, as a result, additional fatigue. Visually, the angle should be barely noticeable. Why move the saddle away from the parallel position at all?
Small changes in angle allow for a more precise fit, especially if the stem cannot be adjusted in length. Also, the tilt of the saddle takes into account the anatomical features of a particular person. The seat moves with the help of a special bolt located under it. You should not unwind it too much, but after setting the desired position you need to tighten it tightly. Additional saddle adjustment – horizontal movement. The most comfortable position will be when the center of the knees of the seated cyclist is in a vertical line with the axes of the pedals.
Horizontal adjustment of MTB saddle
Setting up an MTB bicycle also includes adjusting the stiffness and stroke length of the suspension fork. The stiffer the structure, the less shock it will soften when moving. You can regulate in several ways:
- Preload: spring tension or weakening, one-time change in stiffness;
- Rebound: adjusting the degree of vibration damping when changing the type of road surface;
- Extension control: allows you to change the stroke of the shock absorber, thereby selecting optimal conditions for the road. The function also allows you to block the fork if the bike moves from mountain trails to smooth asphalt. This also includes an additional function - locking in a clearly defined position.
A properly “honed” shock absorber means not only the absence of discomfort from potholes and stones, but also the preservation of the geometry of the bicycle and the extension of its service life.
Adjusting V-brake and disc brakes
Setting up the brakes yourself takes a couple of minutes, but will help you avoid troubles in the future. A precisely adjusted brake system will give the shortest possible braking distance and will not allow the pads to wear out prematurely.
A properly tuned V-brake is:
- firmly fixed body to the fork (or bolt for “pliers”);
- cable tension;
- distance of pads from rim 2.5 – 3 mm;
- instantaneous operation and rebound of the pads from the rim when the handle is released;
- The surface of the cartridge pads must be completely attached to the rim.
Using the fixing screw, the distance from the pads to the rim is set
A common problem with poor V-brake response is an insufficiently tensioned cable and improperly positioned pads. They may not be pressed evenly to the wheel rim. Problem solving:
- We release the cable, then forcefully pull it a little further. A few procedures will be enough to restore normal tension. There is no need to overdo it: either the mechanism will be damaged, or the cable will be pulled, and the brakes will not work at all.
- Align the brake linings parallel to the wheel rim. Sometimes the problem lies not in the brake at all, but in the G8. The defect is not a pleasant one, but it can be done quickly.
- Centering of the clamp brake is achieved by maximum fastening to the bolt and uniform release position. Position it strictly in the center so that the force of the handle and cable is equally distributed between the pads.
Adjusting disc brakes involves tightening the cable and setting the distance between the pad and the surface of the disc. The free gaps here are up to 0.4 mm, much less than on the V-brake. This often results in slowdowns and increased wear.
The position of the pad is adjusted using the adjusting screw on the body. It is almost impossible to determine the optimal distance by eye, so we break in the bike and check the brakes in different positions of the handle after each adjustment.
Settings of all the described parameters are simply necessary so that trips bring only joy and do not cause inconvenience, and the bike itself requires maintenance as little as possible.
Gear shifters are widely used when riding both mountain and city bikes. A lot depends on their quality work: the pleasure of cycling, ride quality and even your safety. Before each cycling season, you need to check and, if necessary, adjust this mechanism correctly.
What parts help set up the speed switches?
A multi-speed mountain or city bike is equipped with several gears and gives new possibilities. It is much easier to conquer peaks, ride over uneven terrain, and even perform various tricks. To enjoy cycling, you need to set the gear selector correctly.
Those who first decided to figure out the switch mechanism on their own should first become familiar with the transmission parts and their functions.
The transmission is a set of bicycle parts that allows you to take on part of the cyclist's load. It also helps you ride on difficult surfaces, such as mountains.
We will not go into detail on each part of the bicycle. Let's look at just some of the elements that make up the transmission.
- The front derailleur helps the chain move along the drive sprockets of the system. Attached to the frame in the pedal area;
- The system is part of the front derailleur. It also consists of stars, different in diameter and number of teeth, which are attached to the connecting rods with special bolts;
The front derailleur is located in the pedal area
- The rear derailleur helps the chain move along the cassette sprockets. Located in the rear wheel area;
- cassette/ratchet - part of the rear derailleur. Consists of several stars, different in diameter and number of teeth. On expensive bicycles, the cassette is mounted on a drum. In cheap ones, there is a ratchet in place of the drum. The latter can also be observed on older bicycle models;
The rear derailleur is located on the rear wheel
- chain is a part of the transmission that must be periodically lubricated with special oils and washed;
The most reliable chains are matte gray. If the chain has a yellowish tint, this indicates its low quality. Nickel-plated chains are considered to be of average quality.
A bicycle chain is an important part of the transmission.
- shifters (or shifters) - a device with which the cyclist controls the gear change. When you press the shifter, the cable tension changes, causing the speed to change. It is mounted on the steering wheel, near the handles. The shifter on the right handle is responsible for the rear gear shift, and on the left - for the front. There are bicycles with one right-hand shifter;
Shifters are mounted on the steering wheel and are responsible for changing gears
- cables – parts that connect the shifters to the speed switches. A high-quality transition from one speed to another depends on the correct tension of the cable;
- shirt –
a rigid tube through which the cable passes. Attached to the frame.
The transmission cable connects the shifter to the shifter
Speed change mechanism
The operation of the rear and front derailleurs is as follows: if the cable is tensioned, the derailleur frame moves the chain to higher sprockets. If, on the contrary, you loosen the cable, the frame will throw the chain onto the smaller sprockets.
Speeds are switched using shifters (coins) located on the steering wheel. The rear derailleur is adjusted with the right shifter. This way the chain jumps between the rear sprockets. And the front derailleur is adjusted with a shifter on the left side. This is how the chain jumps among the front sprockets.
How the speed switch works - video
Gear shift types
Before making any adjustments, determine what kind of gear shift your bike has. There are 3 main types of switches.
- External switching mechanism.
- Internal switching mechanism.
- Combined type.
The internal gear shift mechanism appeared earlier than the external one. The progenitor of multi-speed hubs is the English company Sturmey-Archer. It was they who created the first two- and three-speed hubs, which were released in 1902.
Internal gear shifting on a mountain bike
The basis of this design is planetary bushings. This mechanism does not use cassettes. The transmission includes only 2 stars: front and rear. The entire mechanism is hidden inside. Usually there is no front gear selector either.
This mechanism is often found on road, touring, folding and city bikes. The system itself is located inside the rear planetary hub. This type of speed switch can be seen, for example, in the Forward Surf city bike (3 speed gears).
This mechanism is difficult to adjust for a non-professional. If necessary, it is better to contact a bicycle workshop.
External shifting on a speed bike
The external type belongs to most multi-speed bicycles. It is used on both mountain and city walking models. The mechanism consists of gear shifters and sprockets, forming a cassette or system. The speed is changed using the rear and front derailleurs.
This type of gear shift can be seen on both the Forward Dortmund city bike (7 speeds) and the Forward Agris mountain bike (24 speeds). This You can set the switch yourself by studying the mechanism.
The design of a bicycle chassis, principles of operation - video
Combined mechanism
The combined type is a combination of external and internal mechanisms. It is mounted on the rear wheel hub of the bicycle.
This mechanism is extremely rare, since it combines all the negative aspects of both the external and internal gear shift systems. It can only be configured by a professional.
Switch classification
In the modern world, there are many companies that create equipment for bicycles. The best quality models are made by corporations such as Shimano (Japan) and Sram (America), which produce entire lines of derailleurs.
Devices for professionals:
- Shimano XTR, Sram ESP 9.0 and Sram ESP X.0 take the lead in price and quality. They are mainly used in competition bikes. They are characterized by low weight of the structure.
- Shimano deore xt, Shimano Saint, Shimano slx took second place in the same category. Used in bicycles with 27 gears.
- Shimano Deore LX, Shimano Dura-Ace, Shimano Hone - third place. They are designed for devices with the maximum number of speeds.
Sports bike lines:
- Sram ESP 7.0 and Shimano Deore are similar designs. Made from very durable components and designed for 24 gears.
- Sram ESP 4.0, Sram ESP 5.0, Shimano Nexave and Shimano alivio are cheaper than the professional line. They support up to 24 speeds and are designed for touring bike models.
Line of switches for hobbyists:
- Sram ESP 4.0, Shimano C201 and Shimano acera are included with cheaper hybrids and entry-level mountain bikes. Can withstand up to 24 gears.
- Sram ESP 3.0, Shimano Nexus and Shimano altus are designed for recreational, city bikes.
- Shimano tourney is designed for a quiet, smooth ride. Carries 21 gears.
There is no fundamental difference in the adjustment and operation of different lines of switches from the same company. For example, different groups of Shimano derailleurs work the same and are interchangeable. Let’s say that the drive of eight-speed Alivio, Altus, Acera switches can be equipped with nine-speed systems Deore, Deore XT, Deore LX, XTR and vice versa.
The difference between devices in the Shimano line - video
What can affect the quality of switches?
It is important to find out what caused the problem.
Stretched cable
This defect is regulated by a drum on the shifter.
- When the chain moves silently and has difficulty jumping onto large sprockets, it means the cable has stretched. Rotate the drum clockwise until the part is tensioned to the desired position.
- If the chain does not want to go down onto small sprockets, loosen the cable by turning the drum counterclockwise.
- Check the operation of the speed switch. If necessary, tighten the drum further. Adjust until the chain begins to jump smoothly.
Broken cable
If a part is damaged, it must be replaced.
- Unscrew the fixing screw on the crossbar.
- Disassemble the shifter to remove the cable.
- Insert a new one, treat with special lubricant.
- Pass it through the shirts and set them in place.
- Secure the new cable to the derailleur.
Changing the cable on a bicycle - video
Parallelogram spring problems
For better performance of the return spring, you need to wash it. Then lubricate, after cleaning.
The rooster is bent or broken
If the rear derailleur tab is askew, it means the mount is bent. You can fix this defect yourself.
- Hold the foot with one hand and grab the switch with the other.
- Gently, without sudden movements, align the position of the rooster until the rear frame is level.
The rooster should be replaced with a new one as soon as possible. Even if you level it, such a part will not last long.
Switch deformation
A common cause of such a breakdown is a bicycle impact. Usually the rear derailleur suffers, the front derailleur is very difficult to bend. After a breakdown, it is worth checking exactly which parts have broken.
- If it's a frame, align it or change the part.
- If the screw that regulates the chain tension or the eye that secures this screw is broken, it is better to replace the parts. Otherwise, speeds will change very poorly.
Changing bicycle transmission parts - video
How to adjust the rear derailleur
The rear derailleur is a machine that transfers the chain from one sprocket of the rear wheel to another. Today, the vast majority of high-speed bicycles are equipped with such a switch.
The rear derailleur consists of the following elements.
- Switch frame. The number of bicycle speeds depends on its length.
- Two rollers that are responsible for directing the chain: a guide and a tensioner roller.
- The mechanism itself (parallelogram).
- Mounting bolt.
- Low gear limiter - screw labeled L.
- The top gear limiter is a screw labeled N.
- Cable guide groove.
- Tensioner adjustment screw.
Adjusting the rear derailleur is necessary if the mechanism is not working correctly, the chain is jumping over the desired sprockets, the speed does not change, or you hear grinding or loud noises. You can set up the mechanism and debug its operation yourself. You will need a Phillips screwdriver and a #5 hex key.
First, make sure the derailleur is positioned vertically and parallel to the bike. If everything is in order, you can proceed to configuration. For convenience, turn the bike upside down, placing it on the saddle and handlebars, this will give access to the switch itself and the adjustment screws.
- First, lower the chain onto the smallest sprocket. Do this with the shifter on the right handle of the bicycle, it is responsible for the rear derailleur.
- Loosen the screw holding the cable. This is done in order to unlock the switch.
- Prepare a screwdriver and find the screw with the letter H on it.
- Move the switch so (adjust with screw H) so that the sprockets on which the chain rests (one sprocket on the cassette, two sprockets on the switch) are in the same plane, i.e., they form one line.
- Take the cable with your hand. It needs to be pulled out as much as possible and secured by tightening the screw.
- Check if the switch is working properly. If it does not move well to large stars, turn the wing counterclockwise, tensioning the cable.
- Now throw the chain onto the smallest sprocket using the shifters.
- Find the screw with the letter L.
- Change the position of the switch so that the largest star in the cassette lies in the same plane as the switch tab, forming an even line with it.
Setting the rear derailleur - video
Front Derailleur Adjustment
The front derailleur is less common than the rear derailleur. Bicycles with this device are cheaper. The front derailleur moves the chain along the system's sprockets. Moving from side to side, he pushes the chain onto the next sprocket.
Front derailleur device.
- Switch frame. A chain passes through it; this is the main element when changing gears. It moves to the sides in front of the front sprockets.
- The parallelogram is the mechanism itself (speed switch). Includes spring.
- Fastening to the frame.
- Upper limiter L.
- Lower limiter N.
- Cable fastening.
The main problem with the front derailleur is that the chain touches the frame when driving. You can fix this problem yourself.
Setting up the correct operation of the mechanism
- First, you need to set the front to the smallest star, and the rear to the maximum. To do this, rotate the pedals while pressing the shifter.
- Using a #5 hex, lower the screw holding the cable.
- Take a screwdriver and find screw L. Move the frame so that the distance from its inside to the chain is approximately 4 mm.
- Reattach the cable. To do this, pull it with your fingers and tighten the screw that presses against the cable.
- Now you need to adjust the second star. First, put the smallest sprocket on the rear derailleur, and move the front derailleur to the old one.
- See if the chain touches the outside of the frame. If the problem persists, tighten the cable further using the thumbwheel on the left shifter. Turn it counterclockwise until the chain is in the desired position. The distance from it to the frame should be approximately 3 mm.
- Go to the third star. If the chain touches the frame, then use a screwdriver to adjust screw H. You need to increase the gap by moving the frame outward.
Troubleshooting the front derailleur - video
How to change gears on any bike from Merida to ladies' model
To ride easily and comfortably, with less effort, you need to change the speed correctly.
- When you hear extraneous sounds when changing gears, the transmission has not worked. You need to press the shifter lever.
- If you decide to conquer the peak, use the rear derailleur.
- It is better to change gear before you start climbing a hill.
- Change gears while moving and do not jump over several stars at once.
- When changing speed, ease the pressure on the pedals. This way the switching will happen smoothly and correctly.
How to change speeds correctly - video
If you carry out preventive maintenance on the operation of the gear selector before each cycling season, then problems associated with the transmission will be reduced to a minimum. It’s very unpleasant when a mechanism malfunctions along the way. And setting up the speed switch yourself and troubleshooting problems is easy even for a beginner.
A Before you hop on your brand new mountain bike, be sure to adjust it properly. Riding a poorly tuned bike can lead to pain in your knees, arms, shoulders and back muscles. You can improve the quality of your trip by following the simple instructions given in this article.
Make sure you have the right tools for the job: All adjustments can be made using a standard bicycle multi-tool. To get the job done right, you'll need a wrench. This is especially true for spare parts made of carbon fiber. Sometimes a torque mark is indicated on the part; if not available, consult the manufacturer of these parts on the website.
The bicycle can be adjusted in different ways: If you are not confident in your abilities, contact your nearest bicycle store.
To adjust the saddle, you need to ensure that the bike sits straight when you sit on it. Alternatively, your friend can stand facing you with his feet on the front wheel and hold the steering wheel. You can also lean your bike against a tree, wall, or workbench.
What need to do: It is necessary that the knee bends at an angle of 25-30 degrees. Check this by placing your feet on the pedals and extending your leg down from the beginning of the pedal stroke.
How to adjust: Use a socket wrench or cam clamp lever to loosen the seat bolt and adjust the saddle height. Make sure the maximum saddle reach mark is not visible after you have finished adjusting the height. Once you are sure the saddle height is correct, re-tighten the seat bolt with a socket wrench or cam clamp lever. 
Adjusting the position and angle of the saddle
Saddle position
What need to do: You will need a simple plumb line, that is, a rope with a weight at the end. Place the ball of your foot on the pedal at the 3 o'clock position.
Hang a plumb line in front of your knee so that the weight hangs freely over your foot. If the saddle is in the correct position, an imaginary line along the plumb line will bisect the pedal axle. For a more accurate check, let someone else take part in this process as well. 
Seat Angle
What need to do: A saddle installed askew can cause hip and back pain and requires more energy due to rolling forward or backward. To accurately adjust the seat angle, you can use a regular bubble level. 
How to adjust: Loosen the hex bolt securing the fastener that secures the saddle frame (fastener design may vary between saddles). Move the saddle back and forth and rotate it at the same time to adjust the angle.
After changing the position of the saddle, tighten the bolts and double-check everything using a plumb line and level. Once you are sure that everything is in place, secure the saddle again to the specified torque. 
Adjusting the brake levers
If your brake levers are positioned correctly, your reaction, control and balance while braking will improve.
Adjusting the angle of the brake levers
Your aim: Position the levers at such an angle that your wrists are straight. If you have to twist your wrists upward to grab the brake lever, you are leaning too forward. If you have to twist your wrists down to grab the brake lever, you drop your elbows and lose your balance.
How to adjust: Loosen the brake lever hex bolt and turn it until the levers are at a 45 degree angle. Then tighten the bolt to torque. 
Adjusting the position of the brake lever on the steering wheel
Many cyclists prefer to place three fingers on the handle and one on the brake lever. However, most disc brakes are designed to be controlled with two fingers. This allows you to have a firm grip on the handlebars when you're rolling on uneven surfaces.
What need to do: Position the two-finger lever so that the middle finger rests against the curved end of the lever.
How to adjust: It's very simple. Loosen the hex bolt on the brake lever mount and rotate the mount inward or outward. Check everything. If everything is satisfactory, simply tighten the bolt until it is tight. 
Adjusting the reach of the brake lever
If you have to overexert yourself, you cannot react quickly because your hands " walking» on the steering wheel when you brake; If the brake is too close to the handlebars, your braking resistance will be reduced.
This is where the adjustment varies greatly from bike to bike. Some standard bikes do not have reach adjustment. Typically, you turn a single screw on the brake lever and move the lever closer or further away from the handlebars.
Shifter adjustment
This fine adjustment is largely a matter of personal preference. Additionally, there may not be much room to move the shifter once the brake levers have been adjusted properly. ( Remember: If you haven't adjusted your brake levers yet, then do that first).
What need to do: Do not allow the hands to rotate when changing speeds. Place your hands in a natural position on the handlebars and your fingers on the brake levers. Then check whether it is comfortable to change speeds with your thumbs.
How to adjust: The gear shift levers are adjusted in the same way as the brake levers - using a hex bolt that secures the fasteners. Loosen the bolts and move the switches, turning them in and out until they reach your most comfortable position. Then tighten the bolts in the clamps until they are tight. 
Adjusting tire pressure
Tire pressure should be checked before each trip. Changes in air temperature affect the pressure in the wheel, and pressure tends to decrease over time.
What need to do: As a general rule, tire pressure should be as low as possible. The recommended tire pressure can be found on the side of the wheel. If you don't want to risk damaging your tires, you need to keep the pressure low. This will provide a softer, more forgiving ride and improve traction. 
How to adjust: The tools required are very simple: you need a pressure meter and a pump that fits the valve (Presta or Schrader). Most pressure meters and pumps fit both types of valves. You can also buy a separate adapter for the valve.
Below are instructions for adjusting the pressure. You may develop different preferences from the following as you become a more experienced cyclist. Adjust the pressure in proportion to your weight:
If weight ranges from 45-70 kg: use minimum pressure.
If weight is 70-90 kg: add 0 to 5 psi to minimum.
If you weigh more than 200 pounds: Add 5 to 10 pounds per square foot to the minimum.
Basic suspension adjustment
The most important thing in adjusting air suspension is adjusting the sag, that is, shortening the shock-absorbing element when you sit on the bike. Proper sag adjustment affects the range of movement of the suspension, as well as its behavior over bumps.
If you have a coil suspension, you can adjust the suspension spring preload. Its adjustment depends on your tastes. Increasing the preload makes the bike ride stiffer, which can minimize bounce. If you feel it's too tight, you can reduce the preload.
How to set up a mountain bike - video
