Heating in a private house with your own. Explanations in simple language: do-it-yourself water heating schemes for a private house

Individual heating of a private home not only allows you to provide yourself with the desired comfort. It is important both for society as a whole and for the preservation of the environment. In addition to the fact that with “spot” heating, heat loss in the mains is eliminated (and this is up to 30% or more of the power of thermal power plants) and the need for large-scale industrial construction is reduced, greenhouse gas emissions become dispersed in space and time and are much more easily “digested” by the natural cycle of substances .

Note: during a typical spring thunderstorm in the Moscow region, energy is released in the amount of approximately 6-20 Mt of TNT equivalent. And only 100 kt of it, released instantly and at a point, over the same area, will cause catastrophic destruction.

The full identification of the advantages of individual heating systems (HS) is currently hampered by 2 circumstances: technical innovations that provide radical fuel savings are very expensive and pay for themselves in 20-40 years, and professional implementation of CO, in addition to being expensive, is constrained by stereotypes of standard design (involuntary pun). When mechanically transferring them to private houses designed differently, heating 1 cubic meter . m of their volume often turns out to be more expensive than in a panel high-rise apartment, and fuel consumption does not fit into environmental standards. Therefore, for many homeowners and private developers, the question of how to make a CO with your own hands, or at least competently develop its scheme, is of burning interest.

This article is an attempt to highlight these problems from the point of view, first of all, of minimizing the costs of both the construction of the CO and heating costs in the future. The global economy and ecology are, of course, very important. But one must go to them based on the well-being of individual citizens, and not make sacrifices to a certain Leviathan.

Of particular interest as a heating object is a two-story house. In mass construction it is unprofitable, where profitability directly depends on the number of floors. Until recently, private owners also avoided second/one-and-a-half floors; it seemed complicated and a little expensive. But with rising prices for building plots and taxes on land and real estate, floors above the ground floor are becoming increasingly important for small homeowners.

At the same time, for a one-and-a-half to two-story building, it is possible to implement unconventional heating schemes that are very economical both in terms of initial costs and operation. Perhaps a builder or heating engineer with “typical” thinking will have his eyes roll out of his head when looking at such a project, but it works! It's warm!

Our ultimate goal is to develop autonomous heating with the possibility of emergency connection of alternative energy sources, the operating costs of which will not exceed those for an apartment in a high-rise building of the same area. Have you reported, my dear? Well, the text with infographics is in front of you, read it and judge for yourself.

Initial positions

Take a look at fig. No, this is not our final result. This is a heating scheme for a 2-story house with a total area of ​​120-150 square meters. m, developed according to the European DIN standard. Only CO scheme, without boiler piping. Which is even more fearful, and you can look at the trace to see what just the collector unit looks like in real life. rice. on right. How much money will be spent on pipes, taps, temperature gauges, pressure gauges and fasteners alone? Let's not talk about sad things, let's talk about the dynamics of mortgage rates. Black humor, sorry.

We won't do that. Anyhow, too. To simplify and reduce the cost of CO, we use the fact that the concept of quality of life is often taken to the point of absurdity and turns into its opposite. In relation to this case, firstly, we will refuse to control electronics and automatically maintain individually set temperatures in rooms with an accuracy of plus or minus 0.5 degrees. A person is not Kramer's oncidium orchid, not a Cusimanza civet, and not a decorative pony. It was not formed in greenhouse conditions and temperature fluctuations of 2-3 degrees within the comfort range will only benefit it.

Secondly, European standards cannot tolerate breathing walls. Even construction wood, and building from living wood is directly prohibited in some countries. Why is unclear and not clearly substantiated anywhere. Perhaps for the same reason that a standard European individual, under pain of painful death, will not eat wild mushrooms and berries, but with pleasure slowly pours down his throat bourbon whiskey, which contains more fusel than in Sumy potato moonshine and which makes a person sick , accustomed to Crimean wines and Armenian cognac, immediately turns inside out.

To be more specific, DIN contains a blank, which is why it is necessary to set the industrial air circulation rate at 2 complete exchanges per hour. As a result, heat loss for ventilation accounts for 60% of the total. We will proceed from the domestic residential standard - 1 exchange/hour and 40% of ventilation heat loss. And in emergency cases (forced heating in abnormal frosts, interruptions in energy supplies), let’s remember the medical minimum: a person needs an average of 7 cubic meters to breathe. m of air per hour.

That is, we are abandoning the unspoken principle “give us a box, and we’ll somehow stuff the batteries in it” and will try to develop a comprehensive CO project in conjunction with a heated building. Let’s set ourselves the priority task of completely reducing unavoidable heat losses, then measures to insulate the house will turn out to be much more effective and cheaper.

Finally, let’s assume that we are not white-handed, and working for ourselves will not be a burden. A typical construction project involves delivery to the customer on a turnkey basis, after which the builders, having received what is due from the owner, leave for another project. It would be a sin for us to spend 3-5 days setting up a ready-made system for the building once and for all. Individual heating, which requires adjustment work, turns out to be simpler, cheaper, more reliable and creates greater comfort than standard heating, modified for an arbitrary layout; In this case, we will be able to narrow down the reserves according to the calculated coefficients.

About two boilers

In the diagram above there are 2 boilers connected in series, in cascade. And identical, i.e. not for main and emergency fuel. For what?

The fact is that heating boilers keep the passport efficiency down to 10-12% of the rated power, then drops sharply. But for forced heating in severe frost, the boiler power must be taken 2-3 times more than calculated according to average climatic indicators. Then the limit of its adjustment drops to 3-5 times, and for complete comfort, adjustment is required during the heating season every 10-20 times, depending on the local climate. So you have to install 2 boilers of rated (design) power: switched on in cascade, they will give just the required power limits without compromising the reserve for afterburner.

Note: We will try to save money here too - we will take the main boiler of the calculated capacity with an afterburner reserve, and for a long off-season or abnormal cold we will connect a simple and cheap one using an additional or alternative energy source. You'll have to turn it on/off manually, but we'll put up with it for the sake of saving money.

Things to remember!

There is such a fundamental scientific concept - entropy. It, roughly speaking, means a general desire for disorder. Everything in the world wants to get lost, become littered, gather dust, spread out, crumble, spread out. To maintain order you have to expend some energy. Let’s look at what this means in relation to CO using an example. By the way, entropy was born from thermodynamics.

Let's say it was frosty or increased ventilation was required. The boiler turned up the heat, and then, when the need for afterburner passed, it went down below nominal until the CO cooled down. Since heat loss is always directed outward, forced heating will take more time than reduced CO during cooling. This phenomenon is called thermal hysteresis and is caused by the thermal inertia of the boiler and CO. Where and how the energy of excessively burned fuel goes is an interesting question for a physicist, but requires a long discussion, so let’s just take note: the thermal inertia of CO should be kept as low as possible. In particular, do not use overly powerful boilers.

If, for example, the breadth of the Russian soul buys a boiler with a power 5-7 times greater than the calculated one, then heat loss due to hysteresis will noticeably increase in addition to the decrease in efficiency at the lower power limit, the boiler is large, the volume of its jacket is comparable to the volume of pipes and radiators. And then you have to read on the forums: “They dilute the gas with something! According to heat calculations, the consumption is 170 cubic meters per month, but Buderus consumes 380!” Of course he eats. And where should he go if, instead of the efficiency of 85% honestly deserved in proprietary tests, he is forced to work at barely forty. This does not reduce the amount of water in the shirt.

What to warm up with?

Well, it's time to get down to business. And first of all, let’s figure out what types of heating there are and which one to choose. That is, we choose a coolant, everything else flows from it.

Air

Heating stoves create natural circulation of warm air in the room. We will return to them briefly at the end, but for now we will note it as a fact: the heat capacity of air is very small, and for full-fledged air heating, either a large-area air heater or a fairly intense convective flow is required.

First case -. The heated air in a room with heated floors has little contact with walls and windows, and its temperature is low. Thermal inertia is very small, because it directly depends on the heat capacity of the coolant. Therefore, heat loss is 1.4-1.7 times lower than when heating with radiators. One thing is bad: it is difficult to push the primary coolant through a long thin tube embedded in the floor, so a separate circulation pump is needed for a warm floor. If the electricity goes out, it will stop and the floor will stop heating.

Due to their high efficiency combined with energy dependence, it is advisable to use heated floors in rooms that do not require an even temperature regime, but lose heat intensively: in hallways, corridors, and halls. It is undesirable in a bedroom or nursery - increased comfort at lower costs does not pay for the risk of sudden cold at night.

The second case is all-air CO from a heater furnace. in the basement through an air duct system. In buildings no higher than 2 floors, air-convection CO can be very economical, but then its efficiency rapidly decreases. It was widely used in antiquity, but already in the Middle Ages, due to the increase in the number of storeys in buildings, it fell out of use. Currently, there is no method for calculating air-convection CO, so its construction is the lot of those who like technical experiments on themselves.

Steam

Heating with superheated water steam under pressure is almost completely devoid of thermal inertia and, other things being equal, allows you to reduce boiler power (and fuel consumption) by 20-30% However, the use of steam CO is permitted only in industrial premises with continuous qualified supervision and care of the system: the probability of an accident is significant, superheated steam is extremely, even fatal, and traumatic , and steam radiators heat up to 120-140 degrees. The assembly of steam CO is complex and time-consuming, because the only possible material for the system components is steel.

Water and antifreeze

To date The best option for a private residential building is water heating: The heat capacity of water is greater than that of most other liquids, which makes CO more compact, but its viscosity is low. This allows you to achieve a small thermal inertia by accelerating the circulation of the coolant in the system; how - more on this later. Plastics can be used to build water CO, which makes work easier and reduces additional heat loss.

As for solutions of ethylene glycol in water - antifreeze - their thermal properties are no worse. But antifreezes are expensive and toxic, so careful and durable sealing of the system is required. In addition, the choice of boiler type is limited and its piping becomes more expensive, because the use of emergency discharge of overheated coolant into the sewer system is excluded.

It is advisable to use CO with antifreeze in temporarily inhabited buildings, say, rented out in winter. But then they will need to provide an independent power supply - the piping of antifreeze boilers is, as a rule, electromechanical and controlled electronically. The CO itself will also be more expensive: its fittings must be designed for the sub-zero temperature range, and the design must prevent the deposition of water condensate from the outside air.

What to heat with?

The second main issue is fuel for the boiler. The most economical option is gas heating on natural gas. In terms of the ratio of energy intensity and price, it has no equal yet. 1 kJ from liquefied bottled propane-butane costs about three times more, in addition, 30 kg of gas in a standard 50 liter cylinder per day is enough only south of Rostov-on-Don. Electricity as the main energy carrier is also not an option yet: its energy release, taking into account the efficiency of the system, is 0.95 kW of heat per 1 kW from the network, and costs 1 kW/h 3 rubles.

Note: in some cases, the use of stationary electrical heating appliances may still be justified, see below.

But then how to heat it if the house is without gas? Let’s solve this problem this way: we’ll determine the required total fuel energy reserve for the season as a whole, based on it and the energy intensity (calorific value) of the fuel, the volume of its purchase, and then, based on local prices, we’ll decide what kind of fuel the boiler is needed for. The same technique applies to the emergency additional boiler.

Note: The calorific value of wood is highly dependent on its moisture content. When wood is dampened from room-dry (15% humidity) to stored in an open woodpile (60% humidity), the calorific value drops by 2.5 times.

For the calorific value of different fuels, see the table to the right. Wood fuel is assumed to be room-dry. More precisely, the local type of fuel can be determined by its supplier and/or municipal heating engineers. To bring the boiler power to it, you need to remember that 1 W = 1 J/s. That is, let’s first determine how many kW the boiler should develop on average during the heating season:

P = (ξp)/η (1),

where η is the rated efficiency of the boiler;

ξ – seasonal boiler power utilization factor.

For Moscow ξ = 0.5, towards Arkhangelsk it increases proportionally to 0.79, and towards Krasnodar it also proportionally drops to 0.35.

Now we multiply P (in kilowatts) by 3.6 (so many kiloseconds per hour) and by 24, the number of hours in a day, to obtain the average daily energy consumption of CO:

e(kJ) = 86.4t(1000s)*P(kW) (2),

and, multiplying it by the duration of the heating season in days, we obtain the total seasonal energy requirement for heating E. Dividing it by the calorific value of the fuel Q, we obtain the purchase weight of the fuel in kilograms:

M(kg) = E(kJ)/Q(kJ/kg) (3),

well, everyone knows how many kilograms are in a ton. All that remains is to compare prices and decide which will be cheaper.

Note: Sometimes reference books give the calorific value of fuel in kilocalories (kcal) per kg. The conversion to joules is simple: 1 J = 0.2388 cal, and 1 cal = 4.3 J.

Gas consumption is calculated in the same way, only everywhere instead of kilograms there will be cubic meters. To get the average monthly gas consumption (this may be necessary when setting up a family budget), we simply divide the total consumption by the number of months in the heating season.

Note: in online directories, heat loss calculators, trade declarations, etc., you can find the calorific value in kW/kg or kW/cub.m. Do not believe this data - a watt and its derivatives are units of power, energy release per unit of time. If it is not immediately indicated how long the fuel was burned, that such figures were obtained, this is a fool’s letter. To calculate the amount of fuel and its costs, you need to know the total energy release, regardless of the time of its use, because We pay for energy, not for power. How can it be determined if it is not known how long these kilowatts were emitted? If 1 kg of fuel burns completely in 1 s, developing a power of 1 kW, then the energy in this kilogram is 1 kJ. And if it burned with the same power for 1 hour, then 3600 kJ or 3.6 MJ of energy was released. By default, it is assumed that we mean (kWh)/kg, then the same unit of energy comes out, with the same dimension as the joule. But the traders, having secretly removed the *ch (like a typo), shamelessly enter any fraudulent nonsense into the column, and there is no way to check it.

Heating in the house

We will calculate heating for our home in the following order:

• We will sketch out a preliminary design of the house, based on the available funds and the building site.
• We will zoning the house according to the degree of required comfort of the premises.
• Let's find the heat loss for each room separately.
• If necessary, if a design project is being developed for a new building, we will finalize the preliminary design.
• We will place heating devices in the rooms: radiator batteries and, possibly, additional stationary heaters.
• Also, for each room we will determine the total thermal power of the radiators, and from it the required number of sections.
• We will select a system for constructing the CO and a circuit for distributing the coolant, and based on them, additional correction factors for calculating the boiler power. Here we will decide what we will do ourselves, and for what we will have to hire craftsmen.
• Let us calculate, using the main (mandatory) and additional coefficients, the required boiler power.

After this, it remains to calculate the footage and nomenclature of pipes, the number and nomenclature of connectors, valves, automation devices, the nature and scope of work, the required tools and materials, etc. Based on the calculation data, an estimate for the construction of the plant is drawn up, but this is the subject of a separate serious discussion. Here we will limit ourselves to calculating the boiler, because The methodology for calculating fuel consumption has already been given above.

Comfort zones

1. Complete comfort zone – temperature range 22-24 degrees, no more than 2 external walls. This includes, (especially –), rooms for elderly parents, a gym, etc.
2. The sleeping area - except, these are general-purpose rooms where the entire personal life of their inhabitants is concentrated: guest rooms, servants' rooms, premises for rent. Temperature range – 21-25 degrees.
3. Living area - dining room, office for mental work, hostess's boudoir, etc. Temperature range - according to sanitary standard, 18-27 degrees.
4. Economic zone - here people actively work, fully dressed for the season. Most likely, there are sources of additional heating. This includes the kitchen, home workshop, winter garden, etc. The upper limit of temperature is not standardized; the lower limit, in the absence of people, can drop to 15-16 degrees.
5. Temporary use area, or passage area - staircase, garage, etc. Because Since people appear here casually and in outerwear, the lower temperature limit is set at 12 degrees. For heating, it is advisable to use heated floors or ceiling infrared (IR) emitters; see about them below, in the section on electric heating. Heating radiators are emergency ones that turn on temporarily to protect the boiler from overheating.
6. Utility zone - no heat sources are installed in the premises of this zone, the temperature range is not standardized at all, as long as it is above zero. Heating is carried out due to heat transfer from neighboring rooms. You can also install emergency CO radiators here.

Layout

If the CO is designed for an already built house, then nothing can be done - you will have to zone what is there and the heat loss will be whatever it turns out to be. But still less than according to standard calculation methods. If the CO fits into the house at the preliminary design stage, then you need to be guided by the following rules:

• A comfortable room should have no more than 2 external walls, i.e. no more than 1 external corner. Heat loss through corners is maximum.
• For a boiler, even a wall-mounted one, it is better to allocate a separate room, this will increase its average seasonal efficiency. The minimum requirements for fire safety regulations are a volume of 8 cubic meters. m, ceiling height from 2.4 m, there must be an opening window with an area of ​​10% of the boiler room floor area, free air flow is required either through a gap under the door of 40 mm or through a grille with air filter in it (preferably), or through supply valves from the street. In the boiler room, a separate chimney is required, which does not communicate with the general ventilation and other smoke ducts (say, with the chimney of a fireplace). Finishing is made of non-combustible materials, partitions with adjacent rooms are not less than brick (27 cm).
• It is advisable to locate the rooms of the 1st zone adjacent to the boiler room (furnace room) in order to more fully utilize the waste heat of the boiler. But the door to the boiler room must be made either from the street or from rooms in non-residential areas - utility room, passage, utility room, except for the garage.
• It is preferable to locate the bathroom either adjacent to the boiler room or closer to the center of the building.
• The premises of the utility, passage and utility areas should be located in the corners, near the windward, northern or north-eastern walls.
• In addition, it is advisable to use rooms in the utility zone as thermal buffers between zones 1-3 and 5-6.

Examples of standard (according to standard, but wisely applied standards) and non-standard planning solutions are shown in Fig. Designations: G - living room, S - master bedroom, D - children's room, KR - room of the owners' parents (for grandmother), K - kitchen, Cab - owner's study, Tl - toilet, Vn - bathroom, Gr - dressing room, P - hallway , T – furnace (boiler room), Ch – closet, X – hall, F – lantern above the hall made of polycarbonate on a flat roof, Gar – garage.

Both houses have a total area of ​​less than 150 sq. m. m, and 4 acres are enough for construction, and there is still room for a lawn and garden in the backyard. However, not every wealthy city dweller can afford a living room of 30-35 square meters and a bedroom of 15-20 square meters.

The house on the left is for a family with an established way of life and traditional thinking. The nursery was taken to the corner, and grandmother's room was taken to the furnace room because the first-born was strong, and it was useful for the old lady to warm the bones. If the grandmother, in her own words, lives in the world until she needs a second nursery, the owner agrees to give her the office.

The house on the right is for a young independent family. Thanks to the rather large irregularly shaped hall, it was possible to shove (as the designer put it) the doors into the rooms and push the bathroom into the center of the building. The roof of the built-in garage (it is not on a plinth and its ceiling is lower) is more than 1.5 m lower than the roof of the house. By the time the parents pay off the mortgage and need a second nursery, the plan is to build a one-and-a-half-story building over the garage with one large room and give it to the eldest daughter.

Heat loss calculation

We will calculate the heat loss of rooms 1-4 as usual, without taking into account the internal heat exchange in the building. We will count 5 and 6 for all 4 walls, or even for all 5-6 walls, if we are talking about a non-standard layout. For the calculation, we will need, in addition to knowledge of the structure of the wall and the thickness of its constituent layers in meters, the following values:

1. Thermal resistance of materials Rt or specific heat loss of materials qп.
2. The average temperature in January (or the coldest month in your area), can be found from the local weather service or on the Roshydromet website, or on the website of the local municipality.
3. Average temperature for winter, information – there.
4. Seasonal boiler power utilization factor, already used above.

Note: Specific heat losses are sometimes given in kcal/m*hour, then they need to be converted to W/m^2, using the relationships between joule and calorie and between joule and watt.

In standard design, heat loss is calculated based on its specific values ​​and the temperature of the coldest week of the year. The results are quite accurate for large multi-story buildings (specific heat loss tables, generally speaking, are developed separately for buildings of similar design). Small a private house In terms of heat, it is absolutely necessary to calculate based on the thermal resistance of the materials. Based on the specific heat loss, a private owner can accurately calculate the heat outflow through a cold attic and the front door.

Some calculation data are shown in Fig. But, generally speaking, Rt and qп should be taken from the specification for the material. For the same brick and foam plastic, they differ significantly not only from manufacturer to manufacturer, but also from batch to batch. If the supplier does not show the material passport or there is no Rt or qp in it, it is better to buy somewhere else. This is the case when the miser pays not twice, but throughout his life.

The actual calculation is simple: we multiply the tabular value of Rt for a given material by the thickness of its layer in meters, take the inverse value from the result, this is nothing more than the thermal conductivity of a given layer, and multiply it by the area of ​​the calculated surface and by the temperature difference (temperature gradient) on both sides her sides; if there are several layers of different materials on the path of heat (for example, plaster-brick-insulation), then the Rt of each layer is added up. As a result, we obtain the heat loss flow from the room in watts Qp. If the calculation is carried out using specific heat loss qp, we multiply their tabular value by the temperature difference and surface area, but calculating a multilayer based on qp is already more difficult; for this they need to be converted to Rt.

Calculations are carried out separately for walls, floors, ceilings, windows and doors. For the maximum temperature gradient ΔT we take the minimum permissible room temperature, and for its minimum:

• For walls and windows - the average January temperature divided by the seasonal boiler power utilization factor ξ.
• For the ceiling - the average daily temperature of the coldest week of winter, as calculated by specific heat loss.
• For the floor - the average winter temperature of the area.

From the point of view of standard design, this method is a complete heresy. But we will take into account a circumstance that does not apply in high-rise buildings, namely: the draft of the boiler in a small private house provides a ventilation minimum of air exchange with a large excess. Then, as we are our own masters in our own home, we let air into the boiler room in 2 ways: through the gap under the door from the kitchen or a grille with a filter above the floor in the toilet/bathroom, and from the street through valves in the outer wall.

In moderate cold weather, the boiler room valves are closed. Suddenly an abnormal frost strikes, we open them, limit the air flow to the boiler from the house or completely block it. We provide a “breathing” of at least 7 cubic meters per hour per person in the old-fashioned way: with vents or, more modernly, ventilation valves in the rooms. There is no European quality of life here, but closing/opening the valves is no more difficult or difficult than frying an egg. Which Europe also eats. And with such a construction of a heating system, the cost of heating a private house is lower than the monthly fee for heat in a city apartment - a reality. Finally, if the owner has his head and hands in place, then who is stopping him from equipping the valves with temperature automatics? Then everything will be fine with the quality of life.

Installing batteries

Which?

There are 4 types of heating radiators on sale:

1. Thin-walled steel is the cheapest.
2. Aluminum.
3. Bimetallic steel-aluminum is the most expensive.
4. Cast iron, but not the old “accordions”, but profiled ones.

The former are more suitable for regions with mild winters and a short heating season. With intense combustion, they can corrode, and with it, water hammers are possible in the system, which thin steel cannot withstand.

Aluminum batteries transfer heat well and provide low thermal inertia of the system; The thermal conductivity of aluminum is very high, and the heat capacity is low. But they are fragile, in regions with sudden changes in weather they can leak from water hammer. In addition, they do not mate well with metal pipelines; the coefficient of thermal expansion (TCE) of aluminum is high. It is best to use them in regions north of the black earth strip, where winters are consistently cold, then the disadvantages of aluminum do not affect them.

In bimetallic radiators, aluminum sections are strung on a thin, durable core made of special steel. Bimetal has no technical disadvantages; bimetallic batteries can be used anywhere without restrictions, but they are very expensive.

Cast iron is eternal, completely ignores water hammer, and is second only to steel in terms of cheapness. However, it is heavy and requires an assistant. And most importantly, it has a very high heat capacity for a metal. The thermal inertia of CO and heat losses in it due to hysteresis will be large.

Note: All the tricks described above and below for saving heat in a system with “cast iron” are invalid. It should be considered as standard.

Radiator calculations

Calculating batteries for rooms is simple: divide the previously found heat loss value by the thermal power of one section, multiply by a safety factor of 1.2 and round to the nearest largest integer, we get the number of sections per room. But note: it does not say “on nameplate power sections."

The fact is that the nameplate power is given for a supply temperature of 90 degrees and a return temperature of 70 degrees. In high-rise buildings this is optimal. But our CO is not so large and we can reduce the supply/return temperature ratio to 80/60 degrees. You can’t do less, if the return flow cools below 50 degrees, then either the boiler bypass will work (see below) and money for heat will go down the drain, or, even worse, acidic condensate may form in the boiler, which can quickly and completely disable it. What will we achieve with this? Less heat loss from batteries directly into the walls. Significantly smaller, because The heat transfer of a heated body is proportional to the 4th degree of its temperature.

This means that in order to correctly calculate the batteries, we need to recalculate their power to a smaller temperature range. The passport temperature ratio is 90/70 = 1.2857, and ours is 80/60 = 1.3333. The correction factor for batteries will be (1.2857/1.3333)^4 = 0.865. We multiply the rated power of the section by it for calculation.

Where to put it?

Placing batteries is also a delicate matter and requires ingenuity. Take a look at pos. And the drawing there is typical, in the niches under the windows. That's right, by the way, a thermal curtain in front of the window greatly reduces losses through it. Estimated values: bedroom – 4 sections, living room – 8, children’s room – 6.

Now let's go up to level 1 of ingenuity, pos. B. There are still 8 sections left in the living room, 2 by 4. And the heat curtain was not damaged: it is created by stacking flows from 2 batteries. But their rears no longer heat the outer wall, but the partition, so that in the nursery there are enough 4 sections. 2 – saved, and not only in terms of purchases, but also in terms of boiler power, see below.

Are radiators on the side walls unsightly? And instead of the usual window sill we will put a figured one, as they say - creative, shown with a green dotted line. You can grow plants on it, arrange a work area, etc. At pos. B is an option that is interesting for, for example, the Southern Federal District and Ciscaucasia. There are no radiators in the living room at all (comfort zone 3), and IR emitters in the form of paintings (more on them later), set to 18 degrees, are hung on the walls. Another 8 sections have been saved, and the electricity consumption for IR heating is half as much as the savings on gas.

Note: This is also affected by the fact that a person emits an average of 60 W of heat. Batteries don’t sense it, but IR image sensors do.

About battery shielding

In most cases, batteries will still have to be installed in window sill niches. Then the losses from them directly into the wall can be reduced significantly by applying, see the figure on the right. The aero visor and the hot air injector are bent from sheet metal or thin galvanized steel, and the IR reflector will be covered with a piece of fiber insulation foiled on both sides.

Choosing a system

Here you need to know that the thermal inertia of CO is smaller, the faster water circulates in it. And the speed of its circulation, in turn, depends on the pressure in the system. As far as the strength of pipes and batteries allows (taking into account the possibility of water hammer), the pressure should be increased.

Open or closed?

Until recently, open or atmospheric COs (on the left in the figure below) were built everywhere; they are simple and require a minimum of materials. Now it is prohibited to build new open-type JIs in most countries for the following main reasons, besides which there are many others:

1. To create a pressure of 1 atm (excess atmosphere), which is approximately equal to 1 bar, you need to raise the expansion tank by 10.5 m.
2. The expander requires a large volume, which increases the inertia of the CO and the risk of water hammer.
3. Regardless of any insulation of the expander, its heat loss is unacceptably high.
4. Open CO requires regular maintenance and deaeration.

Closed COs are more difficult and costly to build, but they answer modern requirements and can work indefinitely without supervision. General scheme closed CO is shown on the right in Fig:

Its part to the right of the sections marked A-A is quite accessible for self-production. What is to the left is actually the boiler piping. This is a separate topic, firstly. Secondly, as many lines of boilers are on sale, there are so many fittings for them, described in detail in the company’s specifications. Therefore, we indicate only, for orientation, the purpose of its parts:

• T1 – bypass (bypass, shunt) of the boiler. If the return temperature drops to 50 degrees, thermal valve 10 is triggered by sensor 12 and transfers part of the water from the supply to the return. Valve 5 closes the bypass if the heating is switched to the emergency backup electric boiler VIN (see below and below) 14.
• T2 – bypass circulation pump(simply - pumps) 6. Triggered by supply thermometer 3 (the same thermometer is desirable on the return) in case of supply overheating due to pump malfunction or power failure. In this case, CO goes into a weakly heating and uneconomical, but energy-independent thermosiphon mode.
• 2 – system pressure gauge.
• 4 – storage vessel (thermal damper), necessary to prevent water hammer. Most often it is combined with a DHW boiler, because The CO is not connected to it directly, but by a heat exchanger coil. If operation of the CO from an alternative energy source (AI) 13 is provided, then a second coil is built into the damper if the AI ​​is a solar collector (SC), or a low-voltage heating element if the AI ​​is a solar battery (SB).
• 7 – heating radiators.
• 15 – air drain valve, installed at the highest point of the system.
• 8 – distribution and collection manifolds, needed to prevent water hammer due to the difference in water pressure along the height of the floor. The number of distributing/collecting pipes is based on the number of floors. They are located approximately in the middle of the building's height. Not needed in a one-story house.
• 9 – membrane expansion vessel with emergency technological release of water into the sewer. Serves to compensate for thermal expansion of the coolant.
• 11 – CO replenishment from the water supply. In the simplest case - a float valve and a sediment filter. If the water is bad, additional equipment for its preparation is installed. The water preparation system for hot water supply is not shown, because does not apply to CO.
• 14 – emergency backup vortex induction heater VIN. Operates from the house electrical network or from AI-SB through a DC/AC 220V 50/60 Hz inverter.

How to distribute heat?

Schemes for distributing coolant to heating devices are, firstly, dead-end and reversible. In the first, the water flow is closed only through radiators, heated floors, heated towel rails, etc. Secondly, there is a partial direct flow of water from the supply to the return. Revolving circuits have the lowest thermal inertia, minimum pipes and allow operation of the boiler without a bypass, because the excessively cooling return itself draws the hot supply from the batteries to itself, but they work well only with very long branches (beams) of the supply/return, therefore they are used mainly in large industrial premises: workshops, warehouses.

About Lenigradka

In this case, Leningradka is not a type of preference card game, but the so-called. Leningrad heat distribution scheme, see fig.

Scheme of SO “Lenigradka”

Leningradka is extremely simple, it requires a record small number of pipes, and the distribution branches in private houses are often comparable in length to industrial ones. Therefore, Lenigradka has recently been actively discussed in RuNet. You can watch the video below for more details.

Video: Leningradka heating system

• Single-pipe - the batteries are connected in series, a single pipe goes only to the return.
• Two-pipe - batteries are connected in parallel between the supply and return pipes.
• Combined - successive sections (lowers) are connected as separate batteries in a two-pipe circuit.

One pipe

A single-pipe system (see figure) requires the least amount of materials for construction.

However, it is not widespread due to the following disadvantages:

• Pump P and boiler bypass T are required even in open CO.
• Damper-accumulator A requires a large capacity, from 150 liters, which increases the thermal inertia of CO.
• Adjusting the batteries is interdependent: if there are more than 3 of them on the beam and they are all different, then you can spend half a season adjusting the CO. Moreover, expensive three-way bypass valves are needed.
• The batteries themselves heat unevenly, because of this they are prone to self-airing (the solubility of gases in water increases as the temperature drops), so each radiator needs a separate air drainage.
• The pump needs twice the usual power, from 40-50 W for every 10 kW of boiler power.

Two pipes

A two-pipe scheme (see figure) requires more pipes, but less fittings, so in terms of materials it is not much more expensive than a single-pipe scheme, only it requires more work.

Damper capacity – from 50 liters. Some types of gas boilers, when operating in a two-pipe circuit with a beam length of up to 12-15 m, allow operation without a bypass. The adjustment of the radiators is practically independent; only one air vent is needed. The most common scheme.

Combi

The combined circuit, see Fig., is almost completely unknown to typical “heater operators”, because it is not suitable for one-story houses, and with more than 2 floors it combines the disadvantages of one- and two-pipe.

But just in a 2-story house, although a circulator with a bypass is required here, it has the advantages of both:

• Damper - from 50 l, like a 2-pipe.
• If the upper distribution line M is made from a pipe with a diameter of 60 mm or more and runs under the ceiling (it can be hidden under a cornice or plasterboard false ceiling), then a damper is not needed at all.
• If, when planning a building, heating devices of approximately the same power are brought into depressions, then the entire descent can be adjusted with one simple ball valve, because The heat loss of the second floor through the ceiling is greater than that of the first floor through the floor.

The “combi-two-story” system has only one drawback: there is no standard calculation method. To develop it correctly, you need a lot of experience and professional flair.

Wiring

There are 2 piping schemes for devices: contour (on the left in the figure) and radial-beam, also on the right. They have no obvious advantages over each other. The beam pipe requires a slightly smaller meter of pipes if the boiler room is in the center of the house, but this will work out depending on the layout. In general, if you design in good conscience or for yourself, and not for the sake of more money, then you need to stop at the contour one: what if something happens to the pipes, the floor will have to be broken at the wall, and not in the middle of the room.

About pipes

The best pipes for CO are propylene. Durability has been proven by 30 years of experience; they do not require additional thermal insulation when walled or in grooves. They are not only indifferent to water hammer, but also absorb it, because plastic has little elasticity and is very viscous, and the tensile strength of propylene is better than that of other steels. According to TKR, they are perfectly compatible with any metals, i.e. aluminum batteries for propylene pipes can be used anywhere. They are not overly expensive, and assembly is simple: you just need to know how to handle a soldering iron for propylene, which you can do. The resistance to water flow is very small, which, at the same pressure in the CO, will give faster circulation and less thermal inertia.

Steel isn't so bad either: it lasts forever and is cheap. But it’s difficult to work with: you need welding, a powerful pipe bender, etc. Copper is eternal, you can work with it on your knees: a pipe cutter, a pipe bender, a mandrel for flaring the ends and scraping (rimer) require small hand tools. It is connected by soldering, which is also easy. However, copper is very expensive, it requires insulation of pipes even when passing through walls and ceilings, and it resists water hammer worse than aluminum. In general, for the rich and ambitious: I have copper, not something like that! Why not gold or silver? They are stronger and more expensive.

Anecdote from the 90s: Two new Russians meet: “Oh, bro, you have a new tie! - Yes, I just gave you 300 bucks! “Listen, you’ve gone astray!” There’s a boutique around the corner, they sell exactly the same ones for 500.”

We exclude metal-plastic altogether. Claims that it can be installed with one adjustable wrench are either lies or ignorance. You need special tools, the same as for copper. Then, the maximum permissible temperature of the PVC coating is 80 degrees. And the most important thing is that the fittings (special connecting fittings) leak, even if you crack, and so far not a single manufacturer has managed to cope with them. In CO, this is fraught not so much with a leak, but with airing at full speed, which threatens a real disaster.

About slopes

Any CO will at some point have to work on a thermosiphon, without a pump. To ensure that the boiler does not overheat and the rooms are warm enough, the installation of the supply and return must be carried out with slopes of 5 mm/m, see fig. on right. “Professional” hacks often neglect this, hoping for a thermogradient pressure in the pipes, but for yourself, of course, it’s better to try and do it reliably.

Boiler calculation

Now you can take on the boiler. With the described approach to designing a heating system, we do not ask questions about the insufficiency/excess of its thermal power compared to that of radiators (and these are subtle and complex questions). Forced heating, if necessary, will be provided by a supply temperature reserve (we lowered it), and more or less normal operation on a thermosyphon will be provided by an accumulator and the slope of the pipes. Then the boiler power is easily calculated:

• We add up the power of all heating devices supplied with water from the boiler.
• We multiply by 1.4, we took into account 40% of heat loss for ventilation.
• We divide the result by the seasonal power utilization factor.
• We divide the second result by the efficiency of the pre-selected boiler.
• We select the nearest one with higher power from the chosen line of boilers.
• If its efficiency is lower than predetermined, we repeat the calculation; You may have to take a more powerful boiler or a different manufacturer.

For example, for the houses described above, with proper insulation, the total heat loss will be about 8 kW without ventilation. The power of all radiators and other heaters was 9.5 kW. Then: (9.5*1.4)/(0.5*0.85) = 31.3 kW. We choose a 30 kW boiler, and a 3 kW VIN for it. According to a typical calculation, the output was 40 kW in the form of 2 20 kW boilers, which cost twice as much as one 30 kW with VIN.

Video: example of heating a private house with an area of ​​300 sq.m.

Attention: the editors are not responsible for the content and quality of the video!

Electric heating

Here we are not talking about electric boilers; electricity is expensive and you can install them only if there is no fuel at all. We will talk about additional water heating and heating devices. Electric heating with their help in the off-season may be cheaper than using solid or liquid fuel.

VIN

The design of the VIN, which was mentioned above, is an electrical transformer with a short-circuited secondary winding, which is also a magnetic circuit. The product contains a section of steel pipe, on which a primary winding made of a thick copper busbar is superimposed, see fig. Eddy currents (Foucault currents from school physics) are induced in the secondary, partially in the water, and heat it. VINs are eternal and are distinguished by a rare “oakiness”: they are not afraid of even a lightning strike and the nightmare of all electricians - zero burnout at the substation.

But their main advantage is zero thermal inertia. The contact area of ​​the secondary with water is thousands of times larger than that of a heating element, and its volume in the pipe is hundreds of times less than in the boiler tank. Due to this, if in the off-season, when the fuel boiler is still breathing at low efficiency, you turn it off and turn on the VIN, then the costs of electric heating will be less than the costs of coal and comparable to gas ones.

This is due to the fact that the VIN is indifferent to the return temperature. There is no flame in the furnace, no exhaust gases, acid vapors simply have nowhere to come from. You can reduce the supply temperature to at least 40 degrees, almost completely eliminating induced heat losses (they, as we remember, are proportional to the 4th power of the battery temperature). In this case, the fuel boiler will burn fuel in vain to distill water through the bypass.

IR paintings

IR heaters have also already been mentioned. They come in 2 types: film (on the left in the figure) and LED (IR pictures), also in the center and on the right. The first ones are relatively cheap, these are the same electric fireplaces, only low-temperature ones. They are not very economical and are suitable for temporary local heating, say, in a country house. They are dangerous in bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity.

Infrared heaters – pictures

IR paintings are a different matter. They are essentially digital photo frames, i.e. The image can be changed and stored in your memory. But in IR pictures, each pixel contains, in addition to color (R, G and B) emitters, infrared emitters. The efficiency of IR LEDs is high, but the main thing is that the radiation directivity is also high; back and to the sides they hardly warm up. The desired temperature in the room is set from the remote control. Therefore, IR pictures can be used to economically heat rooms of 4-6 zones or even 2-3 in warm areas. The only bad thing is that these devices are very expensive.

Note: IR emitters are also available without a picture, ceiling-mounted ones for heating garages and utility rooms. They are cheaper, but not much.

alternative energy

In the Russian Federation and generally higher than the subtropics in geographical latitude solar alternative heating as the main one in the foreseeable future has little prospects: insolation in winter on a clear day does not exceed 300 W/sq. m. Taking into account the efficiency of energy converters, a panel area of ​​tens and hundreds of square meters is required. m, which is unrealistic in private houses. For example, the cheapest energy-independent house offered, with 26 square meters of residential space (a common room and a tiny bedroom + a small kitchenette and a combined bathroom, like in a railway carriage), costs more than $500,000.

(APU) are also more expensive good home and require a large area for installation, and land is becoming more expensive. In addition, the winds in Russia are generally not strong. Solar collectors are of some interest, because... you can do them yourself. But homemade hot water is provided only in the summer. Branded models that heat water up to 70 degrees in winter are literally packed with the wonders of high technology and are very expensive.

The structure of the solar collector is shown in Fig. in the center. The panel body, made of gas-tight material, is carefully sealed and equally carefully insulated on all sides except the front. The inside is blackened together with the coil with a special paint that absorbs thermal radiation well and is closed with a 2-5 layer glass unit with sealant. The glass is also special, heat-reflecting. The panel is then filled with argon or carbon dioxide under pressure, the more the better. Branded models with an internal pressure of more than 10 bar are known. This design creates a strong greenhouse effect; The CPL of collectors reaches 78%

Solar cells are a layer of high-purity silicon on a conductive substrate, onto which current-collecting tracks are deposited in a vacuum, on the right in Fig. Electricity is generated due to the photoelectric effect in the semiconductor silicon. The cheapest batteries are made of polycrystalline silicon, but their efficiency is only a few percent; they are suitable for powering a radio while camping and recharging AA batteries.

Batteries made of monocrystalline silicon (monosilicon) are used as AI for heating; their efficiency is up to 30% or more. They are steadily becoming cheaper, and when installed on the roof (on the left in the figure) in the Moscow region they are capable of developing a power of up to 3-5 kW in winter on a cloudy day, which is enough to power a VIN through an inverter. In general, the matter is promising and needs to be monitored. Moreover, to connect the VIN, you do not need to redo the CO.

Lastly about stoves

Stove heating certainly creates a healthy microclimate in the house, because... a brick oven breathes and maintains optimal air humidity during temperature fluctuations. You can also make metal stoves breathe by lining them with soapstone mats or simply mineral cardboard. And building a furnace will cost no more than good water CO.

The task of creating home heating with your own hands, although difficult, is completely solvable. There can be many reasons why you have to choose such a heating arrangement option, ranging from the high cost of performing work by third parties to the habit of doing everything yourself. But regardless of the motives that forced you to choose this option, to successfully create heating you need to know how it works.

About home heating in general

Water heating of any private home consists of at least the following elements:

• heating boiler;
• expansion tank;
• heating radiators;
• pipelines;
• control valves.

And here the first feature appears - the circulation pump is not mentioned among the equipment. The fact is that for some options for creating home heating, whether you do it yourself or not, a pump is not required. But in this case there are other requirements that will be discussed a little later.

Components of water heating

Therefore, when deciding on a future water heating system, you need to start work with the main points - decide what the heating scheme will be and choose the power of the heating boiler.

Which boiler should I use?

This is a rather complex task, in solving which it is necessary to take into account many different points.

1. Selecting the type of fuel. You need to focus on affordable and cheap energy resources; main gas is considered the best. If it is not available, use other types of fuel:

• solid (coal, firewood, peat, pellets, etc.);
• liquid (diesel);
• electrical or any other energy. You need to choose the cheapest and most affordable fuel, given that these costs will determine your future home heating costs.

2. How will the boiler be used - only as an element of the heating system or also as a source of hot water. Depending on the purpose, you can choose a double-circuit or single-circuit boiler.

3. What area needs to be heated by creating home heating on your own, and the characteristics of the heated premises. In such a calculation, almost everything must be taken into account:

• geographical location of the house;
• number of floors;
• the material from which the house is made, the thickness of the walls, the use of insulation in its construction, etc.;
• frequency of operation of the boiler, the possibility of its operation in automatic mode;
• location, dimensions, possibility and need for routine maintenance and maintenance;
• the presence or possibility of creating the necessary ventilation to remove combustion products.

The above questions represent only a small part of those that you must answer before you create a home heating system with your own hands.

About choosing a heating scheme

Heating can be carried out according to a variety of schemes. In this case, for each specific case, the most suitable option can be used. When choosing it, it is necessary to take into account the features inherent in various heating systems.

1. They come with natural (gravity) and forced circulation. A feature of gravitational circulation is the ability to heat a house without the use of additional equipment, such as a circulation pump, and the ability to operate system elements at atmospheric pressure.

This approach makes it possible to reduce costs when creating heating, however, for this it is necessary to fulfill a number of additional requirements:

• the heating boiler should be located below the radiators, and the expansion tank above;
• the pipelines must have a slope that creates a gravity flow of the coolant towards the radiators when hot water moves, and towards the boiler when returning;
• pipelines must be secured to prevent the formation of backflow;
• Pipes for supplying hot water must be larger in cross-section than for return.

A heating system with forced circulation is the most versatile, and its creation does not require so many requirements.

2. Heating installation can be carried out using a single-pipe or two-pipe method. The features of these heating schemes are shown in the photo

With a one-pipe system, water passes through the radiators one after another and then returns to the heating boiler, and with a two-pipe system, water enters each radiator separately from the main line and then returns there.

It is traditionally believed that a two-pipe heating scheme is the most effective, but a single-pipe heating scheme also has its advantages, among which it must be admitted that this is the simplest and most affordable option for heating a house, and also the cheapest.

As for the disadvantages inherent in the single-pipe circuit, its most popular type, called “Leningrad”, thanks to the efforts of numerous heating specialists, has been largely eliminated from them.

If you look at what is being created homemade heating in the house from this point of view – the simplicity and reasonable price of the entire system, then the “Leningradka” can probably be considered one of the most suitable options.

You can learn more about the intricacies and features of this system using the video

How to connect a heating radiator

An important factor ensuring the normal operation of the heating system is the radiators used. There are many varieties of such products, they are made different shapes and from different materials, achieving maximum heat transfer from them, but other factors play the main role in heating the room:

1. Number of radiator sections. Established practice recommends using one section to heat three square meters. area, while the coolant temperature should be seventy degrees.

However, the number of sections cannot be unlimited; do not forget that each element in the system creates resistance to the passage of water, and if it is too large, then the heating simply will not work.

2. How is the radiator connected to the heating system? The figure below will allow you to evaluate how the heating efficiency differs for different methods of connecting batteries:

3. Where and how the radiator is installed.

These data should force you to take a more careful approach to the task of determining where to install the radiator. And if the battery is usually placed under the window opening (in the center), and this is a completely correct decision, then the installation of any decorative screens or other decorative items (curtains, drapes) worsens heat transfer and heating efficiency.

Although creating heating for a private home must be considered a rather complex task, it can nevertheless be solved on your own.

The existing variety of options for implementing a heating system allows anyone to choose the one that best suits their needs. own strength, skill and means.

In contact with

Classmates

How to make heating in a private house? Perhaps this will be the very first and most important question that you will ask if you decide to move from a noisy city apartment to your own cozy house or if you want to radically remodel the stove heating system inherited from your grandparents and replace it with something more modern and automated. The level of comfort, coziness and warmth in your home will depend on what decision you make now. Which heating method will be the most efficient and economical? What type of heating is best for you? It's time to get answers to all these questions! And it is best to start with general concepts and principles.

What heating to do in a private house

Modern heating systems must meet certain requirements.

Correct ratio prices and quality. When we talk about quality, we mean high efficiency, in which the maximum required amount of heat is provided for the minimum possible amount of money.

Maximum automation available. Modern heating systems should not require frequent intervention in their operation. Almost all home owners want to set up their heating system once and leave it alone. This is possible when using high-quality modern heating systems.

Reliability. Obviously, no one wants to repair the heating system every six months from failures and breakdowns. Also, in addition to the requirements for the quality of its parts and the system itself as a whole, it is worth mentioning the price - it is unlikely that anyone will prefer a heating system whose price is comparable to the cost of a house.

1. Easy to install. Big advantage heating systems will be easy to install and require minimal expenses. Sometimes, to install a heating system in a private house with your own hands, you need to buy special tools that may not be useful in the future.

The cost of a heating system in a private home depends on the price of materials, the level of thermal insulation, the number of doors, windows, the fuel of the system itself, the heated floor and the complexity of the system.

External conditions are the factor that primarily influences the choice of heating system for a private home. This also includes both the subtleties in the installation of each heating system and the ever-increasing price of fuel.

If you arrange energy resources in ascending order of price, they will look like this:

Main gas;

• Liquefied gas;

  Waste oil;

  Electricity.

This list may vary slightly depending on region, however general form it won't change. Gas heating in a private home will always be the cheapest option, while heating using electricity will require the greatest costs.

It is worth remembering that fossil resources are not infinite, they will not fall much in price, and recently there has been a tendency to switch to the use of renewable energy sources. At the moment, a heating system in a private home based on such sources is quite expensive, but operating costs will be extremely low.

How to make economical heating in a private house

Heating with wood and coal

Making stove heating is a traditional and widespread option for a heating system in private homes. Most often, a large Russian stove is found in village houses. Having significant dimensions and weight, it takes a long time to heat up, but it also does not give off heat very quickly. The heating of the air in the house depends on the temperature of the stove itself and the distance of the rooms from it - the further the room, the cooler it will be.

If a private house has a large area, then you can make stoves in each room. But heating them every day is not the easiest or quickest task, and besides, each of the stoves will need regular cleaning. What option do those who cannot afford heating with electricity and do not have access to a gas main have?

Many people in this situation heat private homes using water. Since often in remote settlements the most accessible type of fuel is coal and firewood, they are used to heat the stove on which a boiler with water is mounted. The heated water moves through pipes from the boiler to individual rooms; in this way, heating a private house is not very expensive.

If the task is to arrange heating in a small country house that is not intended for permanent residence, then the best option for such housing is to install a “potbelly stove.” Long-burning pyrolysis furnaces are gaining popularity. They contain a significant amount of firewood, which does not burn immediately due to the limited supply of air inside the stove. In this way, the room is heated and maintained without the need to frequently add firewood to the stove.

Gas heating

Even if there is no central gas pipeline in a private house, it is possible to install gas heating. In this case, an autonomous gas tank is installed near the house.

If gas is supplied to the house (or there is such a possibility), then the owner of the house gets access to the cheapest fuel. Gas heating usually consists of a boiler and radiators in the house. Unlike a stove system, a gas heating system can be set up once and no longer need to maintain the heating process. Automation will work, which needs to be monitored occasionally.

In a private house, you can install a one- or two-pipe heating system. The first will be cheaper due to a reduction in the number of pipes themselves. In this article we will also pay attention to how to make one-pipe heating in a private house, however, such a system is demanding on the temperature of heating water in the radiators (at least 90 degrees Celsius) so that there is enough heat at the end of the heating chain. For the same purpose, high pressure must be ensured in such a system. These factors lead to increased wear and tear of the entire system. Therefore, most often they use a two-pipe system for heating a private house. Its peculiarity lies in the presence of two pipes for each battery in the house - supply and return. This way ensures uniform heating of all radiators and makes it possible to set the required temperature in each room of the house. Naturally, the cost of such a system will be higher.

When using a boiler-generator, the price of heating a private house depends on the specific fuel. If you use diesel fuel, heating will be relatively inexpensive, and liquid fuel is quite convenient to store and use. The pipe diameter also affects the savings. Forced coolant circulation requires a smaller size than natural circulation. Accordingly, pipes for a forced circulation system will be cheaper, but this option includes an electric pump, which adds electricity costs.

Electrical heating

Heating with electricity in a house that is lived in all year round will not be cheap. If making heating in a private home, the price of which does not exceed your cost plans, is a fundamental point for you, then it is better to try to use other heating systems and purchase more expensive equipment. The advantages of electric convectors and electric boilers are that they have a low price and require simple installation. Compared to heating systems that use wood or diesel fuel, electric heaters have a significantly lower fire hazard. They also allow you to manually adjust the temperature, which directly affects savings.

However, heating with electricity is only good for houses that are visited from time to time, since installing a more expensive heating system will take a very long time to pay off or may not pay off at all. An electric boiler is also suitable as a backup or additional heat source if the main source runs on coal or wood.

To save money, you can install solar panels, heat pumps or geothermal systems.

To summarize, we can say that the cheapest fuel for heating will be gas. Far behind it in this aspect are firewood and coal, which will be even more expensive liquid types fuel. Electricity will always be the most expensive. As for the heating systems themselves, no clear conclusions can be drawn here. A lot will depend on the area of ​​the house, the materials from which the house is built, and the distance from the highway (in the case of gas heating).

In order to understand how best to make heating in a private home, you need to take into account fuel prices, the price of the equipment itself and its installation, the general ease of use of the heating system, as well as the need for heating itself. It's possible that the best option will spend a significant amount at the beginning of construction, and then save on operation, thereby recouping expenses. A prime example of this is alternative energy sources. For example, the cost of installing solar panels, heat pumps or geothermal systems in a private home will be very high, but after installation, the operation of these devices is completely free, which will lead to a quick payback.

Savings lie not only in the correct choice of heating system and low fuel price. You can significantly reduce heating costs by insulating the house itself. It happens that even when building a private house, people think about insulation. Automation is also a good way to save money, as it will maintain a comfortable temperature in the house at minimal cost. If you are going to leave for a long time, then you can set a lower temperature threshold that will not lead to freezing of the house and will allow you to significantly save on heat without wasting it on heating an empty room.

How to properly make heating in a private house with your own hands and where to start

As they say, they dance from the stove. In modern permanent homes, you need to start with a heating boiler. However, the choice of a boiler is not an end in itself; its purchase must be justified by the project, taking into account the area where the private house is built and the characteristics of this house.

Heating system project for a private house

To design a home heating system, a floor plan of the heating supply structure is required, indicating the necessary tolerances, dimensions and other parameters. As a rule, organizations involved in such projects make three-dimensional drawings of heating houses. An example of such a project is shown below.

An integrated approach when designing a heating system for a home should take into account a number of important points.

Proper positioning of the building in relation to the communications suitable to it, from the gas pipeline to the electrical network.

The correct location of the building on the cardinal points - so that enough light enters the house through the windows.

Modern windows that prevent heat leakage through the frame. As a rule, these are three-chamber windows with a ventilation valve.

Using the greenhouse effect: even if there are large windows, if there is a heat source in the room (for example, a fireplace), and if this room is on the sunny side, the temperature in it will not fall below 20–22 degrees Celsius even in severe frost. There will also be no need for additional heating devices.

You can also install a fireplace (even if it is electric), which will serve as an autonomous energy source, and it also creates additional comfort.

Not only the external walls of the house must be insulated, but also the internal partitions - ceilings, walls, floors. If the house has several floors, then it is necessary to insulate the upper floors as well.

Upholstered furniture in rooms retains heat perfectly.

If the above-described conditions are implemented in your private home, its owner will be able to feel comfortable and not turn on the heating system for an extra two weeks. You can also turn off the heating system in such a house two weeks earlier without losing the comfortable temperature inside.

A heating project for a home assumes the presence of a heat supply system, which can be of the following types.

Air - this type does not require the installation of batteries and pipes. However, it may be difficult to maintain constant temperature in the house, and the efficiency of such a system will not be stable due to the strong influence of the external environment. Nevertheless, this cottage heating project will be cheaper than all other options.

Electric - such a system could have been much more popular if not for the limited power of the electrical network for many consumers. In general, a system designed to use electricity to heat a home will have an increased cost in both maintenance and use, since the price of electricity is quite high.

Infrared is the most modern type of design, which fully meets all requirements for heating systems. Plus, recently such projects tend to become cheaper, since technologies do not stand still, but are constantly improving.

Pipeline is the most popular system and also the cheapest. To use it, you need to install a mini-boiler room, which will contain sensors, pumps and a heating boiler.

The choice between these designs remains with the owner of a private house. However, in any case, consultation with specialists is required. If you try to solve this issue yourself, without the necessary experience and knowledge, you can make many irreparable mistakes that will lead to increased waste of money and time.

Using an example, you can understand how to correctly calculate heating for a home.

But that's not all: it is also necessary to take into account heat loss through the windows of the house and due to the place where the house is built. To take these factors into account, correction factors are used:

In the southern regions, a coefficient of 0.7–0.9 is used;

In the Moscow region – 1.2–1.5;

In the northern regions – 1.5–2.0.

If it is intended to use hot water for household needs, then when planning the heating system it is necessary to increase the boiler power by at least a quarter.

This is not a definitive list of requirements for a heating boiler, but they will allow you to determine the necessary parameters of the heating system.

A complete and final calculation requires knowledge of a special technique, taking into account additional factors and must be performed by an experienced and qualified specialist.

It is better to learn and understand in advance how to install a heating system and use hot water for heating.

About coolant circulation

Usually hot water acts as a coolant. When installing heating in a private house, you need to consider how its circulation will occur - natural or forced.

1. Natural circulation. This method is based on raising hot water and lowering cold water. Thus, there is no need for special devices that move the coolant. In addition, heating based on this type of circulation is autonomous and does not depend on other resources. However, this raises the necessary requirements for installing such a system:

The coolant return pipe must have a smaller cross-section than the supply pipe;

The hot water container should be higher than other elements of the system;

To allow water to flow into the batteries by gravity, the pipes must be positioned at an angle to them;

The boiler should be the lowest located element of the heating system.

When choosing a heating system with natural circulation, you should take into account that such heating is only possible for a not very large room - up to 150 square meters. m. But with this method there will be complete autonomy.

1. Forced circulation. As the name of the method suggests, the movement of coolant in the system is carried out by a pump pumping water through the heating circuit. It has no restrictions on the heated area and installation method.

Types of installation

The most common types of installation are the following.

Single-pipe. With this installation, the coolant moves sequentially through all the batteries, leaving some heat in each of them. As a result, the last radiators in the chain heat up much less than the first, and the temperature in such rooms is lower. The advantages of such a device are that installation is quite simple, and its price will be relatively low, since fewer pipes are required.

Two-pipe. In such a system, water from the central line enters each battery and is returned back. This type of installation is much more efficient than single-pipe installation, but making it is also a more expensive and labor-intensive process.

Installation methods

It will be much easier if you let specialized companies do this work. Despite the significant cost (tens of thousands of rubles), as a result, your home will have a high-quality heating system, designed for your home and completed on a turn-key basis.

In principle, such work can be done independently. It is necessary to take into account a number important factors, watch videos on the Internet, read training materials and instructions in books. With this approach, the cost of installation will consist of purchased materials and equipment.

Heating a private home is a complex system. However, knowing its structure and the requirements that it must meet is necessary to make the optimal decision when choosing a particular system for your own private home. This knowledge will also help to assess the level of required costs.

How to install heating in a private home and avoid 5 common mistakes during installation

It cannot be said that only five mistakes can be made when installing a heating system in a house. But we will talk about the most significant of them, the presence of which will lead to dire consequences. These are the errors.

Error when choosing a heat source.

Incorrect heat generator piping.

Initially incorrect heating system.

Poor quality installation of pipes and fittings.

Errors during installation and connection of heating devices.

A typical mistake is choosing a boiler with insufficient power. As a rule, such a mistake can be made when it is intended not only for heating, but also for preparing water for hot water supply. If you install a boiler with insufficient power, the heat generator will not be able to function normally, and the water will not be at a sufficient temperature either in the radiators or in the taps.

The boiler piping not only performs its direct functions, but is also a safety element. Thus, the pump is installed, as a rule, on the return pipeline in front of the heat generator and on the bypass line. The pump shaft must be in a horizontal position. Another mistake is installing a tap between the boiler and the safety group, which is strictly prohibited.

Important. When connecting a solid fuel boiler, you cannot place the pump in front of the three-way valve, but only after it (along the coolant flow).

You can calculate the size of the expansion tank based on the total volume of coolant (usually 10% of it). In an open scheme, the tank is mounted at the top point, in a closed scheme - in front of the pump on the return line. A mud trap is installed between them, and it should be in a horizontal position with the plug pointing down. The wall-mounted boiler is connected to the pipes using American connections.

Shortcomings when choosing a heating system for a private home lead to unnecessary financial costs - first you overpay for materials and installation, and then pay to have the system brought into working condition. Most often, mistakes are made when choosing and installing single-pipe systems: they hang more than 5 batteries on one branch, poorly connect sections, and choose the wrong angle and fittings.

How to make heating in a private house - video

What pipes to use for heating in a private house

From the right choice pipes will depend on the tightness of the entire heating system, so their quality cannot be neglected. The pipes are tasked not only with maintaining the selected temperature, but also with maintaining the coolant in a closed circuit. Thus, the selected pipes must have high strength characteristics.

Conventionally, pipes can be divided into two large groups:

Plastic-based pipes are in consistently high demand, especially those made of polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride. A distinctive feature of the first material is abrasion resistance, the second is resistance to chemicals;

Metal pipes also do not lose popularity. Their advantage is high strength. Pipes made of copper or stainless steel have high corrosion resistance (which cannot be said about other materials in this group).

To carry out heating in a private house, you need to choose one type of pipes yourself. The following pipes are best suited for a private home:

Steel;

• Made of stainless steel;

  Polypropylene;

  Polyethylene (PEX, PE-RT);

  Metal-plastic.

A pipeline made of “ferrous” metal has become a thing of the past, as it has low corrosion resistance and is prone to “overgrowing” of the cross-section. In addition, in order to independently install pipes from such a material, you need to have high welding skills to ensure the tightness of the joints. However, some owners of private houses do not refuse such pipes to install their heating system.

Pipes made of copper or stainless steel can be a good choice, but it cannot be called a budget choice. These materials show good resistance to high blood pressure and temperature. Thus, if you have sufficient finances, such pipes will be an excellent choice. The joining of coolant elements made of copper will be more difficult, since soldering skills will be required, but those made of stainless steel are connected using press or collapsible fittings. If you want to carry out hidden pipe wiring, then it is better to choose the latter option.

Advice. Inside the boiler room, it is better to use metal pipes for piping the boiler and installing lines.

For a budget heating option in a private house, you need to choose polypropylene (PPR) pipes. Of all their types, you should prefer those reinforced with fiberglass or aluminum foil. Installing such elements is a complex and error-prone task.

PPR pipes are joined by soldering fittings, but their quality cannot be checked. If soldering was carried out at an insufficiently high temperature, the joint will leak, but if there was overheating, the passage channel will be blocked. The worst thing about this is that it is not possible to find out about errors during installation. The results of incorrect installation will only appear during operation. Another disadvantage is the deformation of the material due to heating. To prevent the pipe from getting a saber shape, when soldering it is necessary to secure it into movable supports and provide clearance between the wall and the ends of the pipe.

The easiest independent installation will be when using metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes. The price will be higher than that of PPR pipes. However, it will be quite easy for a beginner to make joints on these materials. Also, such pipes are suitable for laying in a screed or wall, but their joints must be made with press fittings; collapsible ones are not allowed.

Metal-plastic and polyethylene materials are used both for open and closed installation, as well as for the installation of heated floors. The disadvantage of PEX pipes is that this material tends to return to its original state. Externally, such an element will look slightly wavy. Metal-plastic and PE-RT pipes do not have such problems and can be bent at the required angle.

Note. At the moment, a composite material – metal-plastic, combined into different layers – is gaining popularity. The metal base is located inside, which allows you to maintain the desired shape.

How to make water (steam) heating in a private house

For water heating of a private house, various types of heat generators are suitable: stoves, boilers (gas, electric, solid fuel), and you can also use different ways space heating: using radiators or heated floors. You need to choose the option that will be optimal for your home.

At the moment, the most successful heating method would be a gas boiler connected to a central gas pipeline.

If for some reason it is impossible to provide access to the gas main, then you should use an electric boiler. The only question is the possibility of paying for expensive electricity to operate it. In addition, the house will need a three-phase input to connect an electric boiler with a power of more than 4 kW. A device with less power will not be enough for a large house.

If heating with electricity is also not suitable for you, you can consider a solid fuel boiler or a stove with a water circuit as an alternative.

You can also heat your house with water using bottled gas or liquid fuel, a solar power plant or a heat pump, but these are quite rare methods.

There are cases when several different heat generators are connected to the heating system of a house, which work in turn or as needed.

The choice of the type of water heating that you will independently install in your home should be made before purchasing pipes and the necessary equipment. Each of these types has its own characteristics that are worth considering so as not to waste money. If you plan to lay metal pipes, then any boiler will suit them. If you prefer the more common plastic or metal-plastic pipes, you need to know in advance whether they are suitable for the type of heating system you have chosen.

Installation of water heating includes the following steps:

Installation of a boiler (or boilers);

Battery installation;

Pipe layout;

Installation of additional equipment;

Summary of elements into a single system - welding (or soldering) of fittings, connections.

Let's take a closer look at each of the stages.

Stage 1. Installation of the boiler

The boiler is installed in a place where it will be easiest to install pipes around the house at minimal cost. If the boiler is gas or electric, then it is worth taking into account the location of the gas pipeline or wiring to the house.

If the boiler is solid fuel or a stove with a water circuit is planned, then the installation location is chosen based on the capabilities of the chimney installation in this location of the house.

The height of the boiler is a significant factor only when planning the natural circulation of the coolant. In this case, you need to position the return inlet to the boiler as low as possible. It is ideal to install a solid fuel boiler in the basement or ground floor of a house. In the case of stove water heating, it is necessary to place the firebox with a heat exchanger at the lowest possible height, as far as the design of the stove allows.

Stage 2. Installation of radiators

Typically, batteries are installed under windows or near the entrance to the house. Depending on the type of radiator, fasteners are chosen for it. The heavier the battery, the more reliable its installation must be.

The location of the battery is strictly horizontal, the minimum distance from the floor is 60 mm, from the window sill - 100 mm. It is advisable to equip each radiator with shut-off valves, an automatic air valve and a regulator. A shut-off valve (faucet) is needed to disconnect the battery from the general heating system if necessary. An air valve will be required to bleed air from the radiator - both when starting the system and during its operation.

Stage 3. Piping and installation of additional equipment

Before wiring, a wiring diagram is drawn up. It uses fittings suitable for a specific type of pipe.

The wiring can be open - the pipes are in plain sight, or hidden - the pipes are removed into grooves in the wall or floor and sealed with plaster or putty.

Stage 4. Welding polypropylene pipes

When soldering PPR pipes, a bead should form at the joint. A uniform passage over the entire diameter of the pipe is required.

To make traces of linear expansions invisible, use a compensator, which is mounted in an inconspicuous place.

Heating of the joined element with a soldering iron lasts no more than 5 seconds at a temperature of 270 degrees Celsius.

After joining, the parts must be held for some time in a certain position (as stated in the welding instructions).

Depending on the heating, the coupling shifts towards the side, which leads to the formation of a special mark. The elements must be pressed against each other.

The soldering iron has two nozzles designed for different sides.

If welding is performed on large diameter parts, the heating time can be significantly increased. However, it is important to remember that prolonged heating of parts is contraindicated, as combustion may occur (detected by a brown tint). In addition, it is possible to overlap the internal section.

Along with pipe routing, radiators are connected and additional equipment for the heating system is installed. For closed systems with forced circulation, such equipment will be a circulation pump, a hydraulic storage tank, filters, and a safety unit. For open systems with natural circulation - an expansion tank (mounted at the highest point). If the open system has forced circulation, then the expansion tank is placed in front of the pump and installed as high as possible - in the attic or under the ceiling.

How to make electric heating in a private house

Electric heating comes in different types depending on the devices used in them. Such devices are:

Electric convectors;

Oil radiators;

Fan heaters;

Infrared heaters;

Warm floors (electricity based);

Electric boilers.

For self-installation in your own home, any of the above equipment is suitable. Some of these devices only need to be connected to the mains and have their own circuit breaker in the panel. More serious expenses are required, for example, for heated floors or an electric boiler, but such work is quite possible.

Water electric heating of a private house

To install this type of heating in a house, it is necessary to install water heating and install an electric boiler. It can be heating element, induction or electrode. The advantage of heating with electricity is that it does not require heating devices in every room of the house. The electric boiler is mounted in a place convenient for pipe distribution, and pipes and a battery are installed in each room.

If the house initially has a water heating system, then it is enough to buy and connect an electric boiler to it. Its parallel operation together with the previous heating source or instead of it is possible. A small re-equipment of the entire system - and everything is ready.

The disadvantages of such a system for a private home will be the presence of water, which can freeze or leak, and the need to install a pipeline (respectively, batteries, taps, etc.).

Electric heated floors

This method of heating in a private home has recently become increasingly popular. With this option, direct heating is provided by an electric cable, which can be hidden in a concrete screed or laid under the floor surface.

Installing such a heating system yourself requires certain skills and knowledge.

First you need to choose the type of electric heated floor: heating cable, mats, ultra-thin film - each of them has its own connection and installation features.

Regardless of the type of floor, before installing it, you need to insulate its base so that the heat from the electric floor itself goes up and does not dissipate.

To regulate floor heating, special thermostats are installed in each room. They can work both automatically and manually.

Typically, electric heated floors are not installed in all rooms, but under the tiles of a bathroom or toilet, or in the kitchen. Also, this type of heating is rarely used as the main one; more often it is combined with other types of heating systems.

How to make heating in a private house - diagram

Heating systems installed in private houses can be single-pipe or double-pipe.

Single-pipe scheme involves connecting radiators to a single collector, which simultaneously performs the functions of return and supply, passing through all batteries in the form of a closed ring.

In a two-pipe scheme The coolant enters the battery through one pipe and returns through another.

To choose the right heating scheme, it is advisable to contact a specialist. The two-pipe heating circuit is more modern and reliable. Moreover, despite the apparent simplicity and cheapness of the one-pipe circuit, it can be argued that it is both more expensive and more complex than the two-pipe circuit.

Single-pipe schemes

Since in this scheme the water, passing from radiator to radiator, loses more and more heat, it is necessary to increase the power by adding sections in the battery. In addition, the supply manifold must be larger in diameter than the manifold in a two-pipe scheme. Also, in a single-pipe circuit it is difficult to establish automatic control due to the mutual influence of radiators.

For a country house or small house where there will be no more than five batteries, it is well suited single-pipe horizontal circuit(or, as it is also called - Leningradka). If there are more than five radiators, then the functionality of this circuit will drop to zero, since the last batteries will be cold.

Another option is to use single-pipe vertical risers in a two-story house. This is a relatively common scheme that has proven its effectiveness.

Two-pipe circuits

At two-pipe wiring The coolant delivers water of the same temperature to all radiators, which makes it possible not to increase the number of sections. Since the lines are divided into return and supply, it is possible to implement automatic control of the batteries using a thermostatic valve.

In such a scheme, the diameter of the pipeline will be smaller, and the scheme itself will be simpler. Two-pipe schemes come in the following varieties:

Dead end: the pipeline is divided into branches in which the coolant moves towards each other;

Associated two-pipe system: in it, the return collector acts as a supply, and the coolant flows in one direction, making a ring out of the circuit;

Collector (radial). This scheme is the most expensive - pipes from the collector go separately to each battery in a hidden way- through the floor.

Two-pipe open system design. When laying large-diameter horizontal lines at a slope of 3–4 mm per 1 m, the system can operate by gravity. This scheme does not require a circulation pump; it is completely energy independent. Both one-pipe and two-pipe systems can work without a pump, the main thing is that there is an opportunity for natural circulation.

Two-pipe circuit of a closed system. For an open heating system, you need to install an expansion tank at the highest point, which will communicate with the atmosphere. This is a solution for gravity networks; it is impossible to do this in any other way. If a membrane-type expansion tank is installed on the return line (not far from the boiler), then the system will be closed, operating under excess pressure. This option is more modern and is used in networks with forced coolant circulation.

Advice. If you own a small one, up to 150 sq. m, house, then the usual two-pipe scheme with forced circulation of coolant is perfect for you. The diameters of the main pipeline will not exceed 25 mm, branches - 20 mm, and connections - 15 mm.

How to install heating in a private house

Single pipe heating system

As we said above, with a one-pipe system, one working pipe is used, looped on the heating boiler. Since the last battery in the cycle will heat up the worst, this problem must be solved. There are several ways out.

Go by increasing the sections in the latest radiators, increasing the heat transfer area.

Install adjustable radiators in the rooms. Such batteries have a regulating device - a thermostatic valve (balancing valve, etc.). With their help, the supply of coolant to the first batteries of the cycle can be regulated. As the flow in them decreases, the flow in the remaining radiators increases.

Install a circulation pump that will provide a slight pressure in the system. In this way, a balance of coolant in each battery will be achieved.

Many professionals consider the last option to be the most optimal, but it is not without its drawbacks. The circulation pump will run on electricity, thereby increasing the cost of operating the heating system and making it dependent on the supply of electricity.

Horizontal single-pipe system (Leningradka)

This heating system has a fairly simple design with the only feature being the laying of the pipe: in a horizontal system, the pipe is mounted with a slope towards the movement of the coolant. In this case, the batteries themselves are installed at the same level and strictly horizontally.

As a rule, the pipeline in this system is laid inside the floor or at its level. If the pipe is laid using the first method, then its heat and waterproofing is necessary.

If this option is provided for a house with two or more floors, then the hot water control will be provided by a valve mounted at the entrance to the first battery of the first floor. By closing this valve, you can increase the pressure in the riser, which supplies coolant to the upper floors. Thus, it is possible to increase the amount of coolant in the batteries of other floors by increasing the heat transfer into them.

Vertical single pipe system

It cannot be said that such a system will be particularly complex or effective. This heating circuit perfectly copes with its functions without the use of a circulation pump. But when laying such a system, the verticality of the risers must be taken into account. To ensure that the effectiveness of this scheme is not lost, it is necessary to use pipes of a larger diameter than in the case of horizontal system. At the same time, initial costs will increase. In addition, it is necessary to ensure the exact slope of the upper horizontal pipe through which the coolant enters the risers. If this is not done, the functionality of the entire system will be disrupted.

Also, this system does not have the most aesthetic appearance; it is quite difficult to hide, which means that camouflage work for this scheme will cost more.

Two-pipe heating system

Installing such a heating system in your home will require large costs for materials and installation. Accordingly, the cost of the system will be higher. However, a two-pipe system pays off well, as it allows heat to be supplied efficiently and evenly to all areas of the house. If you choose this option, you will be able to regulate the heat in each battery, for which you need to install shut-off valves on them.

For trouble-free operation of this system, it is necessary to install bleed valves on the upper radiators. This is especially important if natural coolant circulation is implemented.

Also, the efficiency of a two-pipe system depends on the method of connecting the batteries - side, diagonal or bottom. Currently, all of the above methods are used, but the diagonal method with an upper connection is considered more correct. It ensures maximum heat transfer.

How much does it cost to install heating in a private house?

Installing a heating system in a house is not an easy task, since heating is a complex engineering system. Its cost will consist of two parameters:

Cost of selected equipment: boiler, batteries;

Prices for consumables and installation work.

Also, to calculate the cost of the heating system, you need to consider the following:

House type;

Its area;

Windows – how many and what size;

Battery type;

Boiler type.

When calculating the cost of heating, you need to take into account not only the price of the boiler, but also the price of the fuel that the boiler consumes. Thus, electric boilers have one of the lowest prices, but the costs and cost of electricity to operate such a boiler make the electric heating system the most expensive. The opposite situation is with gas boilers - with the highest cost of the boiler itself and its installation, the costs and cost of gas make such a system quite attractive in terms of payback.

Another factor influencing the cost of a heating system is the readiness of the home. If the heating installation is carried out during construction, this greatly simplifies the process and allows you to apply the most effective solutions for installing the heating system. At this stage, the easiest way is to calculate the cost of heating and draw up a heating system project, since you can take into account all the technical nuances of the house, all the requirements for the system - from the boiler room to heated floors (the presence of a boiler room is mandatory when using floor-standing boilers).

At the stage of building a house, it is easy to take into account the possibility of integration with other engineering systems, for example with ventilation. Installation of supply and exhaust ventilation with heating allows you to consume less electricity, since the dependence of the microclimate on air conditioning systems is reduced. Also, developing a heating system project at the stage of building a house allows you to optimally install the necessary equipment, especially hidden ones, which will allow you to avoid spending money on repairing finished premises in the future.

If you calculate the cost of a heating system for a finished house that is already in use, you need to understand that the amount on the calculator may differ from the actual costs. To install the necessary equipment, wall chiselling, drilling holes, etc. may be required. It is not always possible to conceal the installation of pipes or other elements of the heating system. After all the work has been completed, there is a very high probability of also carrying out repairs on the premises. Thus, when calculating the cost of a heating system, it is worth taking into account costs that are not directly related to it.

Approximate prices for home heating design

Approximate prices for installing a heating system when contacting a specialized company

Installation of wall-mounted gas boilers

Installation of floor-standing gas boilers

Installation of heating radiators

Installation of heating pipes

What do you need to remember if you decide to install a heating system in your own home? Regardless of the choice of heating scheme in the house, the quality will be determined not only by the installation performed, but also by the selected pipes and equipment. You should purchase only proven and high-quality materials from reputable suppliers. The SantekhStandart company successfully sells the necessary equipment for installing a heating system in a private home. The materials and equipment offered by the company are approved by the company’s own specialists and have been certified according to the GOST R system.

In the catalog of the SantekhStandard company you will find everything you need to install a heating system in your home: from metal-plastic and PPR pipes of the required diameters to circulation pumps, batteries, fittings and soldering equipment.

By choosing the SantekhStandard company as a supplier of equipment for your home’s heating system, you do not have to worry about the quality and compatibility of the purchased materials.

Saint Petersburg

st. Sofiyskaya, 72

Properly organizing home heating is not an easy task. It is clear that specialists - designers and installers - can handle it best. It is possible and necessary to involve them in the process, but in what capacity is up to you, the owner of the house, to determine. There are three options: hired people perform the entire range of activities or part of these works, or act as consultants, and you do the heating yourself.

Regardless of which heating option is chosen, you need to have a good understanding of all stages of the process. This material is a step-by-step guide to action. Its goal is to help you solve the problem of installing heating yourself or competently supervise hired specialists and installers.

Heating system elements

In the vast majority of cases, private residential buildings are heated with water heating systems. This is a traditional approach to solving the issue, which has an undeniable advantage - universality. That is, heat is delivered to all rooms using a coolant, and it can be heated using various energy carriers. We will consider their list further when choosing a boiler.

Water systems also make it possible to organize combined heating using two or even three types of energy carriers.

Any heating system, where the coolant serves as the transfer link, is divided into the following components:

• heat source;
• pipeline network with all additional equipment and fittings;
• heating devices (radiators or heating circuits for underfloor heating).

For the purpose of processing and regulating the coolant, as well as performing maintenance work in heating systems, it is used optional equipment and shut-off and control valves. The equipment includes the following items:

• expansion tank;
• circulation pump;
• hydraulic separator (hydraulic arrow);
• buffer capacity;
• distribution manifold;
• indirect heating boiler;
• devices and automation equipment.

Note. A mandatory attribute of a water heating system is an expansion tank; other equipment is installed as needed.

It is well known that when heated, water expands, and in a confined space there is nowhere for its additional volume to go. To avoid disconnecting connections from high blood pressure An open or membrane type expansion tank is installed in the network. She takes in excess water.

Forced circulation of the coolant is provided by a pump, and if there are several circuits separated by a hydraulic arrow or a buffer tank, 2 or more pumping units are used. As for the buffer tank, it works simultaneously as a hydraulic separator and a heat accumulator. Separating the boiler circulation circuit from all others is practiced in complex systems of cottages with several floors.

Collectors for coolant distribution are installed in heating systems with heated floors or in cases where a radial battery connection scheme is used, we will discuss this in the following sections. An indirect heating boiler is a tank with a coil where water for domestic hot water needs is heated from the coolant. To visually monitor the temperature and pressure of water in the system, thermometers and pressure gauges are installed. Automation tools (sensors, thermostats, controllers, servos) not only control the parameters of the coolant, but also regulate them automatically.

Shut-off valves

In addition to the equipment listed, the water heating of the house is controlled and maintained using shut-off and control valves shown in the table:

Once you have become familiar with what elements the heating system consists of, you can proceed to the first step towards the goal - calculations.

Calculation of the heating system and selection of boiler power

It is impossible to select equipment without knowing the amount of thermal energy required to heat the building. It can be determined in two ways: simple approximate and calculated. All sellers of heating equipment like to use the first method, since it is quite simple and gives a more or less correct result. This is a calculation of thermal power based on the area of ​​heated premises.

They take a separate room, measure its area and multiply the resulting value by 100 W. The energy required for the entire country house is determined by summing up the indicators for all rooms. We suggest a more accurate method:

• by 100 W, multiply the area of ​​those premises where only 1 wall, on which there is 1 window, is in contact with the street;
• if the room is a corner one with one window, then its area must be multiplied by 120 W;
• when a room has 2 external walls with 2 or more windows, its area is multiplied by 130 W.

If we consider power as an approximate method, then residents of the northern regions of the Russian Federation may not receive enough heat, and residents of the south of Ukraine may overpay for equipment that is too powerful. Using the second, calculation method, heating design is carried out by specialists. It is more accurate, as it gives a clear understanding of how much heat is lost through the building structures of any building.

Before you begin the calculations, you need to measure the house, finding out the area of ​​the walls, windows and doors. Then you need to determine the thickness of the layer of each building material from which the walls, floors and roofs are built. For all materials in the reference literature or on the Internet, you should find the value of thermal conductivity λ, expressed in units of W/(m ºС). We substitute it into the formula for calculating the thermal resistance R (m2 ºС / W):

R = δ / λ, here δ is the thickness of the wall material in meters.

Note. When a wall or roof is made of different materials, it is necessary to calculate the R value for each layer and then sum the results.

Now you can find out the amount of heat lost through the external building structure using the formula:

• QTP = 1/R x (tв – tн) x S, where:
• QТП – lost amount of heat, W;
• S is the previously measured area of ​​the building structure, m2;
• tв – here you need to substitute the value of the desired internal temperature, ºС;
• tн – street temperature in the coldest period, ºС.

Important! The calculation should be made for each room separately, alternately substituting into the formula the values ​​of thermal resistance and area for the external wall, window, door, floors and roof. Then all these results must be summed up, this will be the heat loss of the given room. The area of ​​internal partitions does not need to be taken into account!

Heat consumption for ventilation

To find out how much heat a private house loses as a whole, you need to add up the losses of all its rooms. But that’s not all, because we must also take into account the heating of the ventilation air, which is also provided by the heating system. In order not to go into the jungle of complex calculations, it is proposed to find out this heat consumption using a simple formula:

Qair = cm (tв – tн), where:

• Qair – required amount of heat for ventilation, W;
• m – amount of air by mass, defined as the internal volume of the building multiplied by the density of the air mixture, kg;
• (tв – tн) – as in the previous formula;
• с – heat capacity of air masses, is taken equal to 0.28 W / (kg ºС).

To determine the heat demand for the entire building, it remains to add the value of QTP for the house as a whole with the value of Qair. The boiler power is taken with a margin of optimal mode work, that is, with a coefficient of 1.3. Here you need to take into account an important point: if you plan to use a heat generator not only for heating, but also for heating water for domestic hot water supply, then the power reserve must be increased. The boiler must operate effectively in 2 directions at once, and therefore the safety factor must be taken at least 1.5.

At the moment, there are various types of heating, characterized by the energy carrier or type of fuel used. Which one to choose is up to you, and we will present all types of boilers with brief description their pros and cons. For heating residential buildings you can purchase the following types household heat generators:

• solid fuel;
• gas;
• electrical;
• on liquid fuel.

The following video will help you choose an energy carrier, and then a heat source:

Solid fuel boilers

They are divided into 3 types: direct combustion, pyrolysis and pellet. The units are popular due to their low operating costs, because compared to other energy sources, firewood and coal are inexpensive. The exception is natural gas in the Russian Federation, but connecting to it is often more expensive than all the heating equipment including installation. Therefore, wood and coal boilers, which have an acceptable cost, are being purchased by people more and more often.

On the other hand, operating a solid fuel heat source is very similar to simple stove heating. You need to spend time and effort to prepare, carry firewood and load it into the firebox. The unit also requires serious piping to ensure its long-lasting and safe operation. After all, a conventional solid fuel boiler is characterized by inertia, that is, after closing the air damper, the heating of water does not stop immediately. And efficient use of generated energy is possible only if there is a heat accumulator.

Important. Boilers that burn solid fuels generally cannot boast of high efficiency. Traditional direct combustion units have an efficiency of about 75%, pyrolysis units - 80%, and pellet units - no more than 83%.

The best choice in terms of comfort is a pellet heat generator, characterized by high level automation and practically no inertia. It does not require a heat accumulator and frequent trips to the boiler room. But the price of equipment and pellets often makes it inaccessible to a wide range of users.

Gas boilers

An excellent option is to install heating that operates on main gas. In general, hot water gas boilers are very reliable and efficient. The efficiency of the simplest energy-independent unit is at least 87%, and the efficiency of an expensive condensing unit is up to 97%. The heaters are compact, well automated and safe to operate. Maintenance is required no more than once a year, and trips to the boiler room are needed only to monitor or change settings. A budget unit will be much cheaper than a solid fuel unit, so gas boilers can be considered generally available.

Just like solid fuel heat generators, gas boilers require a chimney and supply and exhaust ventilation. As for other countries of the former USSR, the cost of fuel there is much higher than in the Russian Federation, which is why the popularity gas equipment is steadily declining.

Electric boilers

It must be said that electric heating is the most efficient of all existing ones. Not only are the efficiency of boilers about 99%, but in addition they do not require chimneys or ventilation. There is practically no maintenance of the units as such, except for cleaning once every 2-3 years. And most importantly: equipment and installation are very cheap, and the degree of automation can be any. The boiler simply does not need your attention.

No matter how pleasant the advantages of an electric boiler are, the main disadvantage is just as significant - the price of electricity. Even if you use a multi-tariff electricity meter, you will not be able to beat a wood-burning heat generator in terms of this indicator. This is the price to pay for comfort, reliability and high efficiency. Well, the second disadvantage is the lack of the necessary electrical power on the supply networks. Such an annoying nuisance can immediately cancel out all thoughts about electric heating.

Liquid fuel boilers

In terms of the cost of heating equipment and its installation, heating with waste oil or diesel fuel will cost approximately the same as with natural gas. Their efficiency indicators are also similar, although the processing, for obvious reasons, is somewhat inferior. Another thing is that this type of heating can easily be called the dirtiest. Any visit to the boiler room will end with at least the smell of diesel fuel or dirty hands. And the annual cleaning of the unit is a whole event, after which you will be smeared with soot up to your waist.

Using diesel fuel for heating is not the most profitable solution; the price of fuel can hit your pocket hard. Used oil has also risen in price, unless you have some cheap source. This means that it makes sense to install a diesel boiler when there are no other energy sources or, in the future, a main gas supply. The unit easily switches from diesel fuel to gas, but the exhaust furnace will not be able to burn methane.

Heating system diagrams for a private home

Heating systems sold in private housing construction can be single-pipe or double-pipe. It's easy to distinguish them:

• according to a single-pipe scheme, all radiators are connected to one collector. It is both a supply and a return, passing by all the batteries in the form of a closed ring;
• in a two-pipe scheme, the coolant is supplied to the radiators through one pipe and returned through the other.

Choosing a heating system layout for a private home is not an easy task; consultation with a specialist will certainly not hurt. We will not sin against the truth if we say that the two-pipe scheme is more progressive and reliable than the one-pipe one. Contrary to popular belief about the low installation costs when installing the latter, we note that it is not only more expensive than a two-pipe one, but also more complex. This topic is covered in great detail in the video:

The fact is that in a single-pipe system, the water from radiator to radiator cools more and more, so it is necessary to increase their capacity by adding sections. In addition, the distribution manifold must have a larger diameter than the two-pipe distribution lines. And lastly: automatic control with a single-pipe circuit is difficult due to the mutual influence of the batteries on each other.

In a small house or dacha with up to 5 radiators, you can safely implement a single-pipe horizontal circuit (common name - Leningradka). With a larger number of heating devices, it will not be able to function normally, because the last radiators will be cold.

Another option is to use single-pipe vertical risers in a two-story private house. Such schemes occur quite often and work successfully.

With a two-pipe distribution, the coolant is delivered to all radiators at the same temperature, so there is no need to increase the number of sections. Dividing the lines into supply and return makes it possible to automatically control the operation of the batteries using thermostatic valves.

The diameters of the pipelines are smaller, and the system as a whole is simpler. There are the following types of two-pipe schemes:

dead-end: the pipeline network is divided into branches (arms), through which the coolant moves along the highways towards each other;

associated two-pipe system: here the return manifold is, as it were, a continuation of the supply, and the entire coolant flows in one direction, the circuit forms a ring;

collector (radial). The most expensive wiring method: pipelines from the collector are laid separately to each radiator, the installation method is hidden, in the floor.

If you take horizontal lines of larger diameter and lay them with a slope of 3-5 mm per 1 m, then the system will be able to work due to gravity (by gravity). Then a circulation pump is not needed, the circuit will be non-volatile. To be fair, we note that both single-pipe and two-pipe wiring can function without a pump. If only conditions were created for natural water circulation.

The heating system can be made open by installing an expansion tank at the highest point, communicating with the atmosphere. This solution is used in gravity networks, otherwise it cannot be done there. If you install a membrane-type expansion tank on the return line near the boiler, the system will be closed and operate under excess pressure. This is a more modern option, which finds its application in networks with forced movement of coolant.

It is impossible not to mention the method of heating a house with warm floors. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive, since you will need to lay hundreds of meters of pipes in a screed, resulting in a heating water circuit in each room. The ends of the pipes converge to a distribution manifold with a mixing unit and its own circulation pump. An important advantage is the economical, uniform heating of rooms, which is very comfortable for people. Underfloor heating circuits are clearly recommended for use in any residential buildings.

Advice. The owner of a small house (up to 150 m2) can safely recommend adopting a conventional two-pipe circuit with forced circulation of coolant. Then the diameters of the mains will be no more than 25 mm, the branches - 20 mm, and the connections to the batteries - 15 mm.

Heating system installation

We will begin the description of installation work with the installation and piping of the boiler. In accordance with the rules, units whose power does not exceed 60 kW can be installed in the kitchen. More powerful heat generators should be located in the boiler room. Moreover, for heat sources that burn different types fuel and having an open combustion chamber, it is necessary to ensure a good air flow. A chimney device is also required to remove combustion products.

For natural water movement, it is recommended to install the boiler in such a way that its return pipe is below the level of the ground floor radiators.

The location where the heat generator will be located must be selected taking into account the minimum permissible distances to walls or other equipment. Typically these intervals are specified in the manual supplied with the product. If this data is not available, then we adhere to the following rules:

• passage width on the front side of the boiler is 1 m;
• if there is no need to service the unit from the side or rear, then leave a gap of 0.7 m, otherwise - 1.5 m;
• distance to the nearest equipment – ​​0.7 m;
• when placing two boilers next to each other, a passage of 1 m is maintained between them, and opposite each other - 2 m.

Note. When installing wall-mounted heat sources, side passages are not needed; you only need to maintain clearance in front of the unit for ease of maintenance.

Boiler connection

It should be noted that the wiring of gas, diesel and electric heat generators is almost the same. Here we must take into account that the vast majority of wall-mounted boilers are equipped with a built-in circulation pump, and many models are equipped with an expansion tank. First, let's look at the connection diagram for a simple gas or diesel unit:

The figure shows a diagram of a closed system with a membrane expansion tank and forced circulation. This tying method is the most common. The pump with a bypass line and a sump tank is located on the return line, and there is also an expansion tank there. The pressure is controlled using pressure gauges, and air is removed from the boiler circuit through an automatic air vent.

Note. Piping an electric boiler that is not equipped with a pump is carried out according to the same principle.

When the heat generator is equipped with its own pump, as well as a circuit for heating water for domestic hot water needs, the pipe layout and installation of elements is as follows:

Shown here is a wall-mounted boiler with forced air injection into a closed combustion chamber. For removing flue gases serves as a double-walled coaxial flue, which is led out horizontally through the wall. If the firebox of the unit is open, then you need a traditional chimney with good natural draft. How to properly install a chimney pipe made of sandwich modules is shown in the figure:

In country houses with a large area, it is often necessary to connect a boiler with several heating circuits - a radiator, heated floors and an indirect heating boiler for DHW needs. In such a situation, the optimal solution would be to use a hydraulic separator. It will allow you to organize independent circulation of coolant in the boiler circuit and at the same time serve as a distribution comb for the remaining branches. Then the basic heating diagram for a two-story house will look like this:

According to this scheme, each heating circuit has its own pump, thanks to which it operates independently of the others. Since coolant with a temperature of no more than 45 ° C should be supplied to heated floors, three-way valves are used on these branches. They add hot water from the main line when the temperature of the coolant in the heated floor circuits drops.

With solid fuel heat generators the situation is more complicated. Their strapping should take into account 2 points:

• possible overheating due to the inertia of the unit; the firewood cannot be extinguished quickly;
• formation of condensation when cold water enters the boiler tank from the network.

To avoid overheating and possible boiling, the circulation pump is always placed on the return side, and on the supply side there should be a safety group located immediately behind the heat generator. It consists of three elements: a pressure gauge, an automatic air vent and a safety valve. The presence of the latter is crucial; it is the valve that will relieve excess pressure when the coolant overheats. If you decide to organize, then the following strapping diagram is required:

Here, a bypass and a three-way valve protect the furnace of the unit from condensation. The valve will not allow water from the system into the small circuit until the temperature in it reaches 55 °C. Detailed information on this issue can be obtained by watching the video:

Advice. Due to the nature of their operation, solid fuel boilers are recommended to be used in conjunction with a buffer tank - a heat accumulator, as shown in the diagram:

Many homeowners install two different heat sources in the furnace room. They must be properly tied and connected to the system. For this case, we offer 2 schemes, one of them is for a solid fuel and an electric boiler working together with radiator heating.

The second scheme combines a gas and wood heat generator, supplying heat to heat the house and prepare water for hot water supply:

To install the heating of a private house with your own hands, you first need to decide which pipes to choose for this. The modern market offers several types of metal and polymer pipes suitable for heating private homes:

• steel;
• copper;
• stainless steel;
• polypropylene (PPR);
• polyethylene (PEX, PE-RT);
• metal-plastic.

Heating lines made of ordinary “ferrous” metal are considered a relic of the past, since they are most susceptible to corrosion and “overgrowth” of the flow area. In addition, it is not easy to independently install such pipes: you need good welding skills to make a hermetically sealed joint. However, some homeowners still use steel pipes to this day when they install autonomous heating at home.

Copper or stainless steel pipes are an excellent choice, but they are too expensive. These are reliable and durable materials that are not afraid of high pressure and temperature, so if you have the means, these products are definitely recommended for use. Copper is joined by soldering, which also requires some skills, and stainless steel is joined using dismountable or press fittings. Preference should be given to the latter, especially when the installation is hidden.

Advice. For piping boilers and laying pipelines within the boiler room, it is best to use any type of metal pipes.

Heating made from polypropylene will cost you the cheapest. Of all types of PPR pipes, you need to choose those that are reinforced with aluminum foil or fiberglass. The low price of the material is their only advantage, since installing heating from polypropylene pipes is quite a complex and responsible task. And in appearance, polypropylene is inferior to other plastic products.

The joints of PPR pipelines with fittings are made by soldering, and it is not possible to check their quality. When the heating was insufficient during soldering, the connection will certainly leak later, but if it is overheated, the melted polymer will half block the flow area. Moreover, you won’t be able to see this during assembly; flaws will make themselves known later, during operation. The second significant drawback is the large elongation of the material during heating. To avoid “saber” bends, the pipe must be mounted on movable supports, and a gap must be left between the ends of the line and the wall.

It is much easier to make your own heating from polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes. Although the price of these materials is higher than polypropylene. For a beginner, they are the most convenient, since the joints here are made quite simply. Pipelines can be laid in a screed or wall, but with one condition: connections must be made using press fittings, not collapsible ones.

Metal-plastic and polyethylene are used both for open laying of highways and hidden behind any screens, as well as for the installation of water-heated floors. The disadvantage of PEX pipes is that it tends to return to its original state, which can cause the installed heating manifold to appear slightly wavy. PE-RT polyethylene and metal-plastic do not have such a “memory” and easily bend as you need. More information about choosing pipes is described in the video:

An ordinary homeowner, going to a heating equipment store and seeing a wide selection of different radiators there, can conclude that choosing batteries for his home is not so easy. But this is the first impression; in fact, there are not so many varieties of them:

• aluminum;
• bimetallic;
• steel panel and tubular;
• cast iron.

Note. There are also designer water heating devices of a wide variety of types, but they are expensive and deserve a separate detailed description.

Sectional batteries made of aluminum alloy have the best heat transfer rates; bimetallic heaters are not far behind them. The difference between the two is that the former are made entirely of alloy, while the latter have a tubular steel frame inside. This was done for the purpose of using the devices in centralized heat supply systems of high-rise buildings, where the pressure can be quite high. Therefore, installing bimetallic radiators in a private cottage makes no sense at all.

It should be noted that heating installation in a private home will be cheaper if you purchase steel panel radiators. Yes, their heat transfer rates are lower than those of aluminum ones, but in practice you are unlikely to feel the difference. As for reliability and durability, the devices will successfully serve you for at least 20 years, or even more. In turn, tubular batteries are much more expensive, in this respect they are closer to designer ones.

Steel and aluminum heating devices have one useful quality in common: they lend themselves well to automatic regulation using thermostatic valves. The same cannot be said about massive cast iron batteries, on which it is pointless to install such valves. This is due to the ability of cast iron to heat up for a long time and then retain heat for some time. Also because of this, the rate of heating of the premises is reduced.

If we touch on the issue of appearance aesthetics, then the cast-iron retro radiators currently offered are much more beautiful than any other batteries. But they also cost incredible amounts of money, and inexpensive Soviet-style accordions MS-140 are only suitable for a one-story country house. From the above, the conclusion suggests itself:

For a private home, buy those heating devices that you like best and are comfortable with in terms of cost. Just take into account their features and choose the right size and thermal power.

Selection by power and methods of connecting radiators

The number of sections or the size of a panel radiator is selected based on the amount of heat required to heat the room. We have already determined this value at the very beginning; it remains to reveal a couple of nuances. The fact is that the manufacturer indicates the heat transfer of the section for a temperature difference between the coolant and the air in the room equal to 70 °C. To do this, the water in the battery must warm up to at least 90 ° C, which happens very rarely.

It turns out that the real thermal power of the device will be significantly lower than that indicated in the passport, because usually the temperature in the boiler is maintained at 60-70 ° C on the coldest days. Accordingly, for proper heating of the premises, the installation of radiators with at least one and a half heat transfer margin is required. For example, when a room needs 2 kW of heat, you must take heating devices with a capacity of at least 2 x 1.5 = 3 kW.

Indoors, batteries are placed in places of greatest heat loss - under windows or near blank external walls. In this case, connection to highways can be done in several ways:

• lateral one-sided;
• diagonal scalene;
• lower - if the radiator has appropriate pipes.

The lateral connection of the device on one side is most often used when connecting it to risers, and the diagonal connection to horizontally laid highways. These 2 methods allow you to effectively use the entire surface of the battery, which will heat evenly.

When a single-pipe heating system is installed, the lower versatile connection is also used. But then the efficiency of the device decreases, and hence the heat transfer. The difference in surface heating is illustrated in the figure:

There are models of radiators where the design provides for connection of pipes from below. Such devices have internal wiring and, in fact, they have a one-sided side circuit. This can be clearly seen in the figure, where the battery is shown in section.

A lot of useful information on the issue of choosing heating devices can be found by watching the video:

5 common mistakes during installation

Of course, when installing a heating system, you can make many more than five mistakes, but we will highlight the 5 most egregious ones that can lead to disastrous consequences. Here they are:

• incorrect choice of heat source;
• errors in heat generator piping;
• incorrectly selected heating system;
• careless installation of the pipelines and fittings themselves;
• improper installation and connection of heating devices.

A boiler with insufficient power is one of the typical mistakes. It is allowed when selecting a unit designed not only to heat rooms, but also to prepare water for domestic hot water needs. If you do not take into account the additional power required to heat water, the heat generator will not cope with its functions. As a result, the coolant in the batteries and the water in the hot water system will not heat up to the required temperature.

Parts play not only a functional role, but also serve safety purposes. For example, it is recommended to install the pump on the return pipeline just before the heat generator, in addition to the bypass line. Moreover, the pump shaft must be in a horizontal position. Another mistake is installing a tap in the area between the boiler and the safety group; this is absolutely unacceptable.

Important. When connecting a solid fuel boiler, you cannot place the pump in front of the three-way valve, but only after it (along the coolant flow).

The expansion tank is taken with a volume of 10% of the total amount of water in the system. With an open circuit, it is placed at the highest point; with a closed circuit, it is placed on the return pipeline, in front of the pump. Between them there should be a mud trap mounted in a horizontal position with the plug down. The wall-mounted boiler is connected to the pipelines using American connections.

When the heating system is chosen incorrectly, you risk overpaying for materials and installation, and then incurring additional costs to bring it to fruition. Most often, errors occur when installing single-pipe systems, when they try to “hang” more than 5 radiators on one branch, which then do not heat up. Flaws during the installation of the system include failure to comply with slopes, poor-quality connections and installation of the wrong fittings.

For example, a thermostatic valve or a regular ball valve is placed at the inlet of the radiator, and a balancing valve is installed at the outlet to adjust the heating system. If pipes are installed to radiators in the floor or walls, then they must be insulated so that the coolant does not cool down along the way. When joining polypropylene pipes, you must scrupulously adhere to the heating time with a soldering iron so that the connection is reliable.

Choosing a coolant

It is well known that filtered and, if possible, desalted water is most often used for this purpose. But under certain conditions, for example, periodic heating, water can freeze and destroy the system. Then the last one is filled in antifreeze liquid- antifreeze. But you should take into account the properties of this liquid and do not forget to remove all regular rubber gaskets from the system. Antifreeze quickly causes them to become limp and leaks occur.

Attention! Not every boiler can work with non-freezing liquid, which is shown in its technical data sheet. This must be checked when purchasing it.

As a rule, the system is filled with coolant directly from the water supply through the make-up valve and check valve. During the filling process, air is removed from it through automatic air vents and manual Mayevsky taps. In a closed circuit, pressure is monitored using a pressure gauge. Usually when cold it is in the range of 1.2-1.5 Bar, and during operation it does not exceed 3 Bar. In an open circuit, it is necessary to monitor the water level in the tank and turn off the replenishment when it flows out of the overflow pipe.

Antifreeze in closed system heating is pumped by a special manual or automatic pump equipped with a pressure gauge. To ensure that the process is not interrupted, the liquid must be prepared in advance in a container of appropriate capacity, from where it must be pumped into the pipeline network. Filling an open system is easier: antifreeze can simply be poured or pumped into the expansion tank.

Conclusion

If you carefully understand all the nuances, it becomes clear that installing a heating system in a private house on your own is quite possible. But you must understand that this will require a lot of time and effort from you, including monitoring the installation if you decide to hire specialists for this.

An effective heating system will make life comfortable in any home. Well, if the heating works very poorly, then the level of comfort will not be saved by any design delights. Therefore, now we will talk about diagrams and rules for installing elements of a system that heats a home.

What you need for assembly - 3 main parts

Any heating system consists of three basic components:

• heat source - this role can be played by a boiler, stove, fireplace;
• heat transfer line - usually this is the pipeline through which the coolant circulates;
• heating element - in traditional systems this is a classic radiator that converts the energy of the coolant into thermal radiation.

Boiler room layout in the house

Of course, there are schemes that exclude the first and second elements of this chain. For example, the well-known stove heating, when the source is also a heating element, and the heat transfer line is absent in principle. Or convection heating, when the radiator is excluded from the chain, since the source heats the air itself in the house to the desired temperature. However, the oven scheme was considered obsolete at the beginning of the twentieth century, and the convection option is very difficult to implement with your own hands without special knowledge and specific skills. Therefore, most household systems are built on the basis of a hot water boiler and a water circuit (piping).

As a result, to build the system we will need one boiler, several radiators (usually their number is equal to the number of windows) and fittings for the pipeline with associated fittings. Moreover, in order to assemble the heating of a private house, you will have to connect all these components within one system with your own hands. But before that, it would be nice to understand the parameters of each element - from the boiler to pipes and radiators, in order to know what to buy for your home.

Which boiler to choose and how to calculate its power

Water heating draws energy from a special boiler, the combustion chamber of which is surrounded by a jacket filled with liquid coolant. At the same time, any product can burn in the firebox - from gas to peat. Therefore, before assembling the system, it is very important to choose not only the power, but also the type of heat source. And you will have to choose between three options:

• Gas boiler - it processes main or bottled fuel into heat.
• Solid fuel heater - it is powered by coal, firewood or fuel pellets (pellets, briquettes).
• Electrical source - it converts electricity into heat.

The best option of all of the above is a gas heat generator running on main fuel. It is cheap to operate and operates continuously, since fuel is supplied automatically and in arbitrarily large volumes. Moreover, such equipment has virtually no disadvantages, except for the high fire hazard that is inherent in all boilers.

A good option for a heat generator that heats a private house without a gas pipeline is a solid fuel boiler. Especially models designed for long-term burning. Fuel for such boilers can be found anywhere, and the special design allows you to reduce the loading frequency from twice a day to once filling the firebox every 2-3 days. However, even such boilers are not exempt from periodic cleaning, so this is the main disadvantage of such a heater.

The worst choice of all possible is an electric boiler. The disadvantages of such a proposal are obvious - the transformation of electricity into coolant energy is too expensive. In addition, an electric boiler requires frequent replacement of the heater and the installation of a reinforced electrical wiring line, as well as grounding. The only advantage of this option is the complete absence of combustion products. An electric boiler does not require a chimney. Therefore, most households choose either gas or solid fuel options. However, in addition to the type of fuel, the homeowner also needs to pay attention to the parameters of the heat generator itself, or more precisely, to its power, which should compensate for the heat losses of the home in the winter.

Choosing a boiler based on power begins with calculating the square footage of the heated premises. Moreover, for each square meter there must be at least 100 watts of thermal power. That is, for a room of 70 square meters you need a boiler of 7000 watts or 7 kW. In addition, it would be nice to include a 15% reserve in the boiler power, which will be useful during extreme cold. As a result, for a house of 70 m2 you need a boiler of 8.05 kW (7 kW 15%).

More accurate calculations of heater power rely not on the squares of the area, but on the volume of the house. In this case, it is generally accepted that the energy costs for heating one cubic meter are equal to 41 watts. And a house with an area of ​​70 m2 with a 3-meter ceiling height should be heated by a heat-generating device with a capacity of 8610 watts (70 × 3 × 41). And taking into account the 15 percent power reserve for extreme cold, the maximum heat-generating capacity of such a boiler should be equal to 9901 watts or, taking into account rounding, 10 kW.

Batteries and pipes - copper, propylene or metal-plastic?

To install a heating system throughout the house, we need pipes and radiators. The latter can be chosen even based on aesthetic preferences. In a private house there is no high pressure in the system, therefore, there are no restrictions on the strength characteristics of radiators. However, the requirements for the heat-generating capacity of batteries still remain. Therefore, when selecting radiators, it will be correct to focus not only on appearance, but also on heat transfer. After all, the power of the heating element must correspond to the area or volume of the room. For example, in a room of 15 square meters there should be a battery (or several radiators) with a power of 1.5 kW.

With pipes the situation becomes more complicated. Here you need to take into account not only the aesthetic component, but also the ability to install the network on your own with minimal knowledge and effort on the part of a home-grown mechanic. Therefore, we can consider only three options as candidates for the role of ideal fittings for wiring:

• Copper pipes - they are used in the arrangement of both domestic and industrial heating systems, but are very expensive. In addition, such fittings are connected using soldering, and not everyone is familiar with this operation.
• Polypropylene pipes - they are cheap, but their installation requires a special welding machine. However, even a child can master such a device.
• Metal-plastic pipes - such a system can be assembled using a wrench. In addition, metal-plastic is no more expensive than polypropylene pipes and allows you to save on corner fittings.

As a result, it is better to assemble homemade heating based on metal-plastic fittings, since it does not require the performer to be able to handle welding machine or a soldering iron. In turn, collet fittings of a metal-plastic pipeline can be installed even by hand, helping yourself with wrenches only on the last 3-4 turns. Regarding the dimensions of the fittings, or rather the bore diameter, experienced specialists in the arrangement of heating systems have the following opinion: for a system with a pump, you can choose a ½-inch pipe - this bore diameter is sufficient for a home system in excess.

Well, if pressure equipment will not be used (water will flow through the pipes by gravity, driven by gravitational and thermal convection), then a 1¼ or 1½ inch pipe will be sufficient for such a system. There is no need to buy reinforcement of a larger diameter under such circumstances. And which wiring to choose - pressure or non-pressure, we will talk about this below in the text, at the same time discussing the optimal diagrams for connecting batteries to the boiler.

Optimal wiring diagram for self-installation

Home heating is based on two schemes: one-pipe and two-pipe. In addition, household wiring can also be built on a collector basis, but it is difficult for novice craftsmen to assemble such a circuit, so further in the text we will not consider this option, focusing only on one- and two-pipe options.

Single-pipe wiring assumes the following coolant circulation plan: the hot flow leaves the boiler jacket and flows through the pipe into the first battery, from which it enters the second, and so on, until the outermost radiator. There is virtually no return in such a system - it is replaced by a short section connecting the outermost battery and the boiler. Moreover, when designing a single-pipe forced circuit, pressure equipment (circulation pump) is placed on this section.

This system is very easy to assemble. To do this, you need to install the boiler, hang the batteries and run one wiring thread between each preinstalled elements of the heating circuit. However, you will have to pay for the ease of installation by the lack of mechanisms for controlling the heat transfer of radiators. In this case, you can regulate the temperature in the room only by changing the intensity of fuel combustion in the boiler. And nothing else.

Of course, given the high cost of fuel, this nuance will suit only a few homeowners, so they try not to use single-circuit wiring in rooms with an area of ​​50 square meters or more. However, such a layout is simply ideal for small buildings, as well as for the natural coolant circulation pattern, when the pressure is generated due to temperature and gravitational forces.

The two-pipe system is designed a little differently. In this case, the following coolant flow pattern applies: water leaves the boiler jacket and enters the pressure circuit, from which it drains into the first, second, third batteries, and so on. The return in this system is implemented in the form of a separate circuit, laid parallel to the pressure branch, and the coolant that has passed through the battery is drained into the return line, returning to the boiler. That is, in a double-circuit scheme, radiators are connected to the pressure and return pipes using special branches cut into two main lines.

To make such a circuit, you need to use more pipes and fittings, but all the costs will pay off in the near future. The dual-circuit option assumes the ability to adjust the heat transfer of each battery. To do this, it is enough to install a shut-off and control valve into the branch from the pressure line connected to the radiator, after which it becomes possible to control the volume of coolant pumped through the battery without interfering with the general circulation. Thanks to this, you can protect yourself not only from overheating the air in a particular room, but also from senseless overconsumption of fuel and personal funds allocated for its purchase.

This version of the wiring diagram has only one drawback: on its basis it is very difficult to assemble an effective system using natural coolant circulation. But based on a pump, it works much better than its single-circuit counterpart. Therefore, further in the text we will consider step by step instructions assembling a single-circuit system using natural circulation and a double-circuit network using forced movement of coolant.

Assembling a heating system with natural circulation

The construction of a natural circulation system begins with choosing a location. The heat source should be in a corner room, located at the lowest point of the wiring. After all, the batteries will go along the internal perimeter, along the load-bearing walls, and even the last radiator should be located slightly above the boiler. Once the location for the boiler has been chosen, you can begin installing it. To do this, the wall in the placement area is covered with tiles, and either a galvanized sheet or a flat slate panel is placed on the floor. The next stage is the installation of the chimney, after which you can install the boiler itself, connecting it to the exhaust pipe and fuel line (if there is one)

Further installation is carried out in the direction of movement of the coolant and is implemented according to the following scheme. First, batteries are hung under the windows. Moreover, the upper pipe of the last radiator should be located above the pressure outlet from the boiler. The amount of elevation is calculated based on the proportion: one linear meter of wiring is equal to two centimeters of elevation. The penultimate radiator is hung 2 cm higher than the last one, and so on, up to the first battery in the direction of the coolant.

When the required number of batteries is already hanging on the walls of the house, you can proceed to assembling the wiring. To do this, you need to connect a 30-centimeter section of horizontal pipeline to the pressure pipe (or fitting) of the boiler. Next, a vertical pipe raised to the ceiling level is attached to this section. In this pipe, a tee is screwed onto a vertical line, providing a transition to a horizontal slope and arrangement of the insertion point for the expansion tank.

To install the tank, use a vertical tee fitting, and screw a second horizontal section of the pressure pipe to the free outlet, which is pulled at an angle (2 cm by 1 m) to the first radiator. There the horizontal turns into a second vertical section, descending to the radiator pipe, to which the pipe is joined using a collet fitting with a threaded elbow.

Next, you need to connect the upper pipe of the first radiator with the corresponding connector of the second radiator. To do this, use a pipe of the appropriate length and two fittings. After this, the lower radiator pipes are connected in the same way. And so on, until the penultimate and last battery is connected. Finally, you need to install the Mayevsky faucet into the upper free fitting of the last battery and connect the return pipe to the lower free connector of this radiator, which is inserted into the lower pipe of the boiler.

To fill the system with water in the return pipe, you can install a tee insert with a ball valve on the side outlet. We connect the outlet from the water supply to the free end of this valve. After which the system can be filled with water and the boiler turned on.

Heating with forced circulation in 8 steps

It will also be justified in the case of single-circuit wiring. However, maximum efficiency of a system with forced circulation will be ensured only by two-pipe wiring, arranged according to the following rules:

1. 1. The boiler can be installed on the floor or hung on the wall in any room without monitoring the level of the heating device.
2. 2. Next, two pipes are lowered from the boiler pressure and return pipes to the floor level, using either couplings or corner fittings.
3. 3. Two horizontal lines are installed at the ends of these pipes - pressure and return. They run along the load-bearing walls of the house, from the boiler to the location of the outermost battery.
4. 4. At the next stage, you need to hang the batteries, not paying attention to the level of the pipes relative to the adjacent radiator. The entrance and exit from the battery can be located at the same level or at different levels; this fact will not affect the heating efficiency.
5. 5. Next, we cut a tee into the pressure and return branches, placing them under the inlet and outlet of each battery. After this, we connect the tee of the pressure pipe to the inlet of the battery, and the fitting on the return line to the outlet. Moreover, this operation will have to be done with all batteries. Using a similar scheme, we install outlets in the system for connecting heated floors.
6. 6. At the next stage, we install the expansion tank. To do this, we cut a tee into the section of the pressure pipe between the boiler and the first battery, the outlet of which is connected by a vertical pipe to the entrance to the expansion tank.
7. 7. Next, you can begin installing the circulation pump. To do this, we install a valve and two tees in the return line between the first battery and the boiler, assembling a bypass for the pump. Next, we remove two L-shaped sections from the tees, between the ends of which we mount the pump.
8. 8. Finally, we arrange a drain for pouring water into the system. To do this, you need to cut another tee between the pump and the boiler, connecting a hose from the water supply to its outlet.

Acting according to this plan, you can assemble a two-pipe wiring in a house of any size. After all, the design of such a system does not depend on the number of batteries - the installation principle will be identical for both two and 20 radiators.

How to increase system efficiency - battery or bypass?

To increase the efficiency of heating systems in everyday life, either heat accumulators or bypasses are used. The first ones are installed in large boiler rooms, the second ones - in small rooms where, in addition to the boiler, there is other equipment. A heat accumulator is a container filled with water, inside which the pressure and return lines of the heating system are laid. As a rule, such a container is placed immediately behind the boiler. Safety valves, expansion tanks and circulation pumps can be embedded into the section of the pressure and return pipeline located between the heater and the battery.

In this case, the pressure line heats the water in the tank, and the return line heats up from the liquid poured into the battery. Therefore, when the boiler burner is turned off, the system can operate for some time only from a heat accumulator, which is very beneficial when used in a circuit that generates excess energy at the start of combustion of a portion of wood or coal supplied with the firebox. The capacity of the heat accumulator is determined by the proportion 1 kW of boiler power = 50 liters of tank volume. That is, for a 10 kW heater you need a battery with a capacity of 500 liters (0.5 m3).

A bypass is a bypass pipe that is welded between the pressure and return branches. Its diameter should not exceed the radius of the main highway. Moreover, it is better to install a shut-off valve into the bypass body in advance, blocking the circulation of the coolant.

When the valve is open, part of the hot flow does not go into the pressure circuit, but directly into the return circuit. Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce the heating temperature of the battery by 10 percent, reducing the volume of coolant pumped through the radiator by 30%. As a result, using a bypass, you can regulate the operation of the radiator in both double-circuit and single-circuit wiring. In the latter case, this is especially true, since the bypass embedded in the first two batteries provides stronger heating of the last radiator in the line and makes it possible to control the temperature in the rooms, although not with such efficiency as in the case of a two-pipe wiring.