How to put on a belt in a washing machine. How to change the drive belt How to install the drive belt

The main problem when drive belts wear out is initial stage Various creaks and twists occur during the rotation of the pulleys, which are transmitted to the engine attachments. If creaks and whistles occur, one of the drive belts may soon break. We offer you detailed information about these types of belts in modern cars. Our guide will help you find out when it is necessary to change drive belts, how to determine the degree of their wear, what is the difference drive belt and what is the average cost of drive belts per Russian market, and also get answers to other questions related to these belts.

First, let's dot the i's and find out what drive belts are.

Vehicle drive belt is an element of a belt drive, a working part of vehicles and mechanisms, which serves to transmit engine torque.

The transmission of torque occurs due to frictional forces or engagement forces (timing belts, V-belts).

There is a misconception that does not apply to drive belts. But actually it is not. The timing belt also falls into the category of drive belts.

Drive belts are divided into several types:

Timing belt (timing belt drive)

Accessory drive belts (engine attachments)

There are three types of car belts:

Thanks to the rotation of the generator, electricity is generated, which supports the operation of all electrical equipment of the car.

Also in many modern cars this same type of belt is used to transmit torque to electric amplifier steering gear, cooling fan, water pump (coolant pump), air conditioning compressor and classic power steering wheel. Since the belt is subjected to enormous load and constant changes temperature, it is typically made of hard rubber and a metal core, which provides strength and durability to the belt. Also, many belts have a durable textile thread that allows the belt to withstand the transmission of high torque.

So every car, in addition to a timing belt (some cars also use a timing chain), has one or more belt drives (depending on technical features vehicle) ensuring the operability of engine attachments.

If the drive belt is cracked (consequences)

If your car's belts (or belts) are worn out, they will have cracks and scuffs on the surface. As a result, a whistle will begin to appear as they move. In this case, the time has come for their planned replacement. Remember that if you do not change the drive belt on time, you risk being left without functional vehicle equipment. For example, if a belt has reached the end of its service life due to severe wear and tear, it will naturally break sooner or later.

Typically, when the drive belt breaks, you will hear a loud bang from under the hood. As a result, the equipment that received torque from it will cease to function. For example, if the drive belt powering the generator breaks, it will stop powering all the electrical equipment of the car. As a result, you will see dashboard battery icon lights up.

Also, if the belt breaks, the power steering will stop working. As a result, your steering wheel will become very difficult to turn. But the most the main problem when the drive belt breaks, there is no transmission of rotation to the water pump, which promotes the circulation of coolant through the engine cooling system. As a result, the engine can quickly overheat. In this case, you must immediately stop driving and turn off the engine.

Therefore, while driving, constantly monitor the engine temperature sensor, which should show the same temperature of 90 degrees. If you see that the temperature needle has gone up and is approaching the dangerous red zone, then you need to stop and, turning off the engine, diagnose the cooling system.

Attention! Overheating of the engine can lead to its failure (damage valve stem seals, failure of the head gasket, damage to the piston system). Therefore, do not allow this under any circumstances by monitoring the engine temperature on the dashboard.

What determines the service life of drive belts?

Modern drive belts have enough thanks to their design from modern, reliable materials. On average, a quality belt can last up to 25,000 hours of operation. Please note that service life is shown in hours, not kilometers, as mileage does not directly affect the service life of drive belts. After all, these belts are in motion even when the car is standing still and the engine is running. idle speed.

But this is in theory, and according to information provided by belt manufacturers to consumers.

In practice, the service life of drive belts may differ significantly from that declared by the manufacturer. The fact is that the wear of drive belts is influenced by many factors. For example, the way it was installed on the car plays an important role in the long service life of the belts. For example, it is not uncommon to try to fit a belt onto a pulley using a screwdriver. As a result, the new belt is damaged and will no longer be able to serve the period stated by the manufacturer. This method of installing the drive belt is also used to speed up the replacement process without removing the pulley.

In addition, the service life of the belts is affected by the storage conditions of the components in the warehouse and their transportation. For example, it is not uncommon for car dealerships to sell drive belts that have expired. Yes they have drive belts. The fact is that chemical composition Drive belt materials change over time. And if the drive belt was manufactured 5 years ago and was stored incorrectly in the warehouse, then when installed on the car it will not last very long.

Weather can also affect the durability of car belts. For example, if you live in a hot climate, then you often use air conditioning. This means that the air conditioning compressor must receive. As a result, the belt transmitting torque to the air conditioning compressor experiences increased load.

In particular, drive belts can wear out quickly if the machine for a long time operated in cold weather. For example, in winter time The machine's electrical equipment requires more power than in warm weather.

As a result, the generator requires more energy to maintain the power grid in vehicle. As a result, the alternator belt experiences increased load due to increased torque.

As a rule, drive belts in a new car last longer because they were installed at the factory and all necessary storage conditions were observed before installation. After replacing the factory drive belts, the life of the belts will be reduced.

Each car manufacturer usually indicates in its technical documentation and service book during routine maintenance when it is necessary to routinely replace drive belts. Therefore, we advise you to carefully read the list of scheduled technical inspections and the schedule for replacing consumables. As a rule, the manufacturer indicates the maximum mileage at which technicians at the technical center must replace the drive belts. This way you will know approximately the service life of the drive belts. But this does not mean that you should not regularly inspect the condition of your belts. More on this below.

Regularly checking drive belts

Periodically, every car owner should check the condition of all drive belts and their tension. To do this, check the belts with your finger while the engine is off. For example, by pressing your finger on the belt, you can determine whether the belt drive tension has loosened. Remember that the belt should not move during this inspection (move 1-2 cm). If you see this, then the cause is weak belt tension. You should also inspect the belt by touch for damage. A visual inspection for chips, cracks and torn elements is also necessary.

Also, use flashlight, which will not only make the overview better, but can also help identify worn areas of the belt (as a rule, worn areas of the belt will shine).

In any case, if you see damaged areas of the belt, then in any case it must be replaced with a new one. Please note that when purchasing new drive belts you do not need to purchase original consumables. There are many non-original belts on the market, which often even surpass the factory originals in quality. For example, Continental, which is the largest supplier of drive belts, has proven itself to be excellent.

The average cost of replacing a belt at a car repair shop is about 2,500 rubles. The cost of car belts depends on the brand's popularity and the cost of production. There are both cheap drive belts on the market and expensive ones that have a special design and are able to withstand extreme loads.

How to tension, tighten or loosen a drive belt

If the cause of the whistle, squeal or squeak is a belt that has become loose, causing it to slip on the pulleys, then if the belt is not damaged or damaged, in order to remove the extraneous sound, it is necessary to tighten the belt.

Using the generator belt as an example, this is done using a special adjusting bolt (on modern cars) or using an adjusting bar (on older cars).

For example, to tighten the alternator belt on a modern car, you need to do the following:

- Loosen the alternator mounting bolts slightly (upper and lower fastenings)

- Turn adjusting bolt in the clockwise direction, moving the generator away from the engine block and immediately checking the belt tension level

- Then shade the nuts of the generator fastening elements

Please note that in some vehicle systems, the process of tensioning the drive belts is too labor-intensive and requires the use of special tools.

Attention. A new generation of poly-V-ribbed elastic belts are currently widespread on the market and in many cars. For example, one of the world's well-known manufacturers of such belts is the Elast company. Their products have proven themselves to be the best. This company is the official supplier of many car factories. Elastic poly V-belts do not require tensioning, tightening, etc. Thanks to their design and material, such belts do not stretch. Typically, such drive belts last about 120,000 kilometers.

But for its initial tension a special tool is required.

Many cars also use special belt tension rollers, which saves drivers from constantly tightening belts. The only drawback of this design is that, as a rule, when replacing drive belts, it is also necessary to change the tension roller, since its reuse together with a new belt is impossible.

Replacing drive belts at a technical center

How can I temporarily replace drive belts if my car breaks down on the highway?

Unfortunately, it is not possible to temporarily replace drive belts with something if they break on the highway in modern cars. In older cars, women's tights sometimes helped with a similar problem. But those times are gone. If the drive belts break, you will need technical assistance.

The timing belt must have a strictly defined tension.

If the tension is insufficient, it can hit the casing or jump over the teeth, which can lead to a violation of the valve timing.

The casing has been removed. We inspect the belt

The timing belt drive, which first replaced the chain on a car back in 1956, connects the crankshaft and camshaft, ensuring their synchronous rotation. Considering that the timing belt performs such an important function, it needs to be constantly monitored technical condition and change it on time. It is recommended to entrust the replacement operation to car service workers, although if you wish, you can do it yourself, having first studied the structure of the mechanism and the algorithm for carrying out the work.

Kick causes and consequences of a broken timing belt

The theoretical resource of this rubber product is quite large, but not eternal. It ranges from 50 to 150 thousand km, depending on the make and model of the car. In reality, the specified service life may be significantly reduced, and the belt may break prematurely due to the following reasons:

Note. In some car models, the pump is not part of the timing mechanism, but is driven by a separate belt that rotates the generator shaft.

Please note: the water pump does not jam immediately. A worn-out bearing makes itself felt by making different sounds, from a squeak at the first stage to a crash when the separator is completely destroyed. In this case, the pump shaft may become skewed, antifreeze may leak, and the belt may jump several teeth.

A break in the belt drive while driving in many cases leads to engine repair, namely, replacement of valves. This is a real lottery, where the chances of a successful and disastrous outcome are approximately equal - 50/50. It all depends on the position of the valves at the moment of rupture, because the camshaft stops, and the pistons continue to move up and down.

If any pair of valves freezes in the “fully open” position, then the impact of the pistons on their plates is almost inevitable. Due to the shock load, the valve stems bend and the parts become unusable. Then replacing the belt turns into engine repair with removal of the cylinder head (cylinder head). The worst of evils is damage to the piston itself, which can be understood after disassembly.

In some 8-valve engines, the pistons do not meet, since the designers, anticipating this possibility, provide a gap between these parts. In 16-valve power units This is difficult to do due to lack of space, so the likelihood of breakage is quite high.

A sign of a broken belt is a complete stop of the engine while driving. When trying to start, the engine shows no signs of “life”, and the starter rotates easier and faster than usual. Sometimes the rupture is accompanied by a metallic knock, indicating that the meeting of the valves with the pistons has taken place. If you hear such a sound, do not try to start the engine until you check the condition of the timing gear drive, so as not to cause additional harm.

If it breaks: what threatens the timing belt break in the video

About the timing and frequency of replacement according to the regulations

The exact frequency of replacing the timing belt drive is indicated in the operating instructions supplied with each vehicle. It also indicates whether the tension roller needs to be changed at the same time as the belt. As a rule, it is also replaced with a new one.

As already mentioned, the service life of products depends on the brand of car and lies in the range of 50-150 thousand km. But the condition of the timing drive should be periodically monitored and early replacement made in the following cases:

• longitudinal cracks appeared on the back side of the belt;
• the edges of the rubber product are “frayed”, threads from the cord stick out from it;
• if there are transverse cracks on the inside between the teeth;
• the teeth began to peel off or were noticeably worn out, and the parts of the mechanism and the walls of the casing were covered with black rubber dust.

To conduct a visual inspection of the belt drive and assess its condition, simply unscrew and remove the upper protective casing (usually made of plastic). Along the way, it’s worth inspecting all the gears and the walls of the cylinder block in search of drips. motor oil or antifreeze from the pump.

Advice. If the engine suddenly begins to run unstably Idling and while driving, shots appear in the injector receiver and exhaust pipe, then do an extraordinary inspection of the timing drive. These problems arise due to shifted valve timing, which is caused by a loose belt that has jumped 1-2 teeth.

Modern timing belts car engines- products are high-tech, and therefore not cheap. They are made on the basis of artificial rubber (neoprene, polychlorprene) with various additives, reinforced with a cord of durable threads. The latter are made from fiberglass, nylon and cotton.

To choose the right new belt, it is suggested to follow these recommendations:

1. The best way to avoid making mistakes with the size and shape of the teeth is to take an old belt with you to the store and compare it with the samples offered. Everything must match - length, width, profile of the teeth.
2. Don't try to save money by choosing cheaper products. And if your car is operated in extreme conditions, then you should choose the best option- the original, in the end it will pay for itself.
3. Check the rigidity of the rubber product. The more elastic it is, the longer it will last on the car. Please note: the cheaper the timing belt, the stiffer it is (experts say “oak”).
4. Externally, the new product should not have sagging on the teeth (small burrs are allowed), cavities or pores. The surface should be smooth to the touch, not rough.
5. If possible, check the catalog number or article number if it is printed on the back of the belt.

Since the auto parts market is saturated with all kinds of counterfeits, there is always a chance of running into a low-quality product. To protect yourself, try to buy a timing belt and pulley from retail outlets from official dealers. Original spare parts are sold in sets, sealed in one package.

The most popular manufacturers of belt drives are the Gates and Bosch brands. They are most often counterfeited, so much so that it is quite difficult to distinguish them. The following verification method is practiced: ask to show you several identical products and check the numbers printed on the back. For “correct” belts, combinations of numbers should not be repeated. If the numbers are the same, then you are probably looking at counterfeit products from the Middle Kingdom.

How to remove and replace a belt drive

The main rule that is important to follow when replacing the belt is not to disturb the valve timing, which is achieved by aligning the marks on the gears, crankshaft flywheel and engine housing. During the work process, you need to check that the marks do not move. The procedure is divided according to the following scheme:

1. Disassembling the unit and removing the old belt.
2. Visual inspection of mechanism parts and cleaning internal cavity from dirt.
3. Installing a new belt with a roller, tensioning it.
4. Assembly and performance testing.

In most cases, you can install a new drive without any special tools. The exception is 16-valve engines, where it is recommended to use jigs to fix the camshafts, but in extreme cases you can do without them. The standard set of tools is as follows:

• jack and wheel wrench;
• open-end wrenches, spanners, heads with extension;
• screwdriver, pliers with pointed ends;
• flashlight for illumination.

It is easier to work on some car models from an inspection pit, but it is usually not required to replace the timing belt. The work procedure is different for 8 and 16 valve engines, so they should be considered separately. An example is the family of front-wheel drive VAZ cars.

Procedure for working on an engine with 8 valves: step-by-step instructions with photos

First you need to place the machine on a level area or inspection hole and secure it hand brake. Then unscrew and remove front wheel from the side of the timing belt assembly, lifting the car on a jack. Perform further actions in this order:

1. Remove the plastic cover covering the drive from above.
2. Remove the elements that block access to the lower cover of the gas distribution mechanism - mud flaps, anthers, crankcase protection. Loosen and remove the generator drive belt, remove the cover.
3. Use a powerful screwdriver or a mounting spatula to wedge the crankshaft by inserting it between the teeth of the flywheel. Using an open-end wrench, loosen the bolt holding the pulley at the end of the crankshaft. Remove the pulley and screw the bolt back into the hole.
4. Release the crankshaft and rotate it with a wrench by the bolt until the marks align. The marks on the housing, gears and flywheel must match. To be sure, jam the crankshaft again.
5. Loosen the tension pulley nut and remove the loose old belt. Next, remove the roller.
6. Inspect the pump and seals for leaks and thoroughly wipe the mechanism cavity from dirt.

Advice. As a rule, the pulley bolt is too tight and loosening it is problematic. Have a helper engage first gear and press the brake pedal while you remove the bolt.

Before installing a new belt drive, install the tension pulley and tighten the nut without tightening it. Then slide the belt over the gears so that all the slack is on the tension pulley side. Be careful not to disturb the position of the marks.

The next step is to tighten the belt using a roller. You need to insert pliers into its holes and turn it on an eccentric axis, then tighten the nut. The timing belt is considered to be normally tensioned if it cannot be manually rotated around its axis by more than 90°. After tensioning, reassembly and a test run of the motor are performed.

How to change a belt: video

Replacement on a 16-valve engine

The 16V engine has 2 camshafts that open their pairs of valves with cams. This gives rise to a number of differences in the process of replacing a belt drive:

Tensioning is also done by turning the eccentric roller and fixing it with a nut. In VAZ cars, a mark is stamped on the roller body, which is aligned with the boss on the body when the belt is tensioned. Having achieved the desired tension, be sure to make 2-3 full revolutions of the crankshaft by hand, and then re-check the position of the marks. In general, the procedure remains the same as when working with an 8V motor.

Video about working with a 16V engine

What else do you need to know about replacing the timing belt?

When changing the timing belt drive, you need to pay attention to the condition of all its parts. If an oil leak is detected from the crankshaft or camshaft oil seal, it is advisable to take the opportunity to change the seal. The problem is that not everyone can do such work on their own, so it is better to detect the leak before disassembling the unit.

The meaning is this: the employees of the car service center where you bring your car to replace the oil seal will still remove the timing belt, otherwise you won’t be able to get to it. And if so, then they will include the operation of removing and tensioning the belt drive in the cost of repairs. There is no point in changing the belt yourself if the service station will do the same and charge you for it.

The same goes for the water pump, which is clearly leaking antifreeze due to a broken bearing. A sure sign of a malfunction is that the entire space of the timing belt assembly and its parts are covered with moisture thrown around by the belt. If you are not able to change the pump yourself, then there is no need to disassemble the car; it is better to immediately go to a car service center.

Advice. A leaking pump must be replaced immediately, regardless of the condition of the belt and other timing elements.

It often happens that a belt breaks while on the road, and the car owner has a spare one in the trunk. Since it will not be possible to move further under our own power, you can install a new spare part in the field under the following conditions:

• the break did not lead to bending of the valves;
• the necessary tools are available;
• There is a way to move your car off the road and park it on level ground.

The replacement process is similar to that described above, only in a 16-valve engine you will have to do without fixing the camshafts. It is important to carefully set the marks and not allow them to move, and after installing and tensioning the belt, double check their position before starting the engine.

Advice. When replacing, you should not treat the new rubber product with any chemicals. It is intended to be installed and operated in its original form, but may begin to slip due to exposure to chemicals.

Signs of Incorrect Drive Installation

After installing the new belt, the engine is test run to determine if everything is done correctly. The following symptoms indicate an incorrect replacement:

• engine vibration appeared at idle speed;
• when you try to press the gas, popping noises are heard in the air or exhaust tract;
• A belt whistle appears, after which the car may stall.

The first 2 signs indicate a violation of the valve timing, that is, the supply of fuel to the cylinders and the removal of exhaust gases does not occur synchronously with the movement of the pistons. This is the result of incorrect alignment of the marks or installation of the drive with a shift of 1 tooth. If there is a deviation of 2 teeth, the engine simply will not start. You will have to fix the problem the same way - disassemble the timing belt assembly and move the belt to the desired position.

A whistle followed by engine failure indicates that the product’s teeth are jumping at the moment of startup. There are several reasons for this:

1. The new belt was not tensioned properly.
2. You came across a product Low quality, unable to function normally.
3. You treated the surfaces of the strap with a chemical, causing it to start slipping.

Whistling, rattling and squeaking can occur when the owner of the car has not changed the old roller, which makes noise and periodically jams. The methods for eliminating these problems are obvious: you need to disassemble the mechanism again and do everything correctly. Fake parts, reviews of which are full of automotive forums, should be returned to the seller with a request for a refund or replacement of the product with a quality one.

Due to lack Money Many motorists are trying to pay less for servicing their “iron horses.” Reasonable savings is replacing the timing belt yourself without involving car service specialists. Saving on buying new parts is not advisable, because if you run into a fake, you can pay twice and lose valuable time.

According to the instructions, the alternator belt on the Ford Focus 2 is not removed by loosening the tensioner or alternator, but is cut off, and to install it you will need a special set of tools which are used depending on which pulley (generator, power steering or air conditioner) the drive belt is put on. On engines 1.4 and 1.6 liters. FF2 there are no tension rollers on the drive belts of mounted units, but on 1.8 and 2.0, although there is a tension roller on the generator belt, but according to the technology, the belts are still disposable and they are simply cut off, and new ones are also installed with a special device. Since many people don’t have such equipment, and they don’t have enough money to buy it, they come up with other ways to create an FF2 generator without accessories. We will talk about some of them, and also show them clearly in the video. As a temporary measure, you can use a special tool - with which you can eliminate the creaking of the drive belt and slightly enhance the traction characteristics.

Officials do not recommend independent replacement of the Focus alternator belt on a 1.6-liter engine, since it is rough and improper handling may damage the belt during installation, but on engines 1.8, 2.0 you can do it yourself, it will be easier there.

To replace the drive belt Ford Focus 2 1.6 with air conditioning needs a set of belts - 1708273 , its composition:

• generator belt;
• air conditioning belt;
• installation accessories (3 pieces).

If you don’t take the original, you can buy CONTITECH 6PK1059ELASTT2, it will cost 15 dollars less.

Set of accessories: 1 - for driving auxiliary units (generator, power steering, pump); 2 - air conditioning compressor belt

Replacing hanging belts on Focus 2 1.6

To change the generator belt, a two-part device is installed on the pump wheel (we install the device until it clicks when it becomes as needed). The pump pulley is rotated using a special bolt (key “19”) on the fixture. The belt should be wound in the following sequence: first we put it on the pulley of the power steering pump, while the belt is wound under the device on the pump, then we put the belt on the generator.

And to replace the air conditioning compressor belt, we take another device and place it on the crankshaft pulley, throwing the drive belt over the compressor and putting it on the device from below. Then we turn the KV bolt with a key (at “18”), turn the pulley clockwise, and hold the belt with your hand so that it does not come off.

Visual video instructions on how to put the belts on the Focus 2 with the device

Replacing generator belts, air conditioning, FF2 1.6 l pump without tools

Replacing the alternator and air conditioning belt on FF2 1.8 and 2.0

Now let's look at replacing the air conditioner and alternator belts on a Focus 2 with 1.8 and 2.0 liter engines, where you can do without the odds and ends, saving on the purchase of a kit, and taking Gates belts:

• 6PK1305 - FF2 generator belt;
• 5PK705SF - air conditioner belt.

To get to the belts, as in the previous case, you will need to remove the decorative engine cover, the front right wheel, and behind it the mudguard and fender liner (T25 key), and then you can proceed in several ways:

Option No. 1 for replacing the air conditioner belt

• unscrew the five bolts securing the air conditioning compressor;
• we will fix the air conditioning so as not to disturb the hoses;
• remove/install the drive belt;
• We screw the compressor back, but there is one thing. When the old belt is put back, the compressor can be screwed into place without problems, but if there is a new belt that is not stretched, then it may not work out so smoothly.

Option number 2: how to change the compressor drive belt

• Without unscrewing the compressor, remove its pulley;
• Using the “10” head, unscrew and remove the pulley pressure plate;
• remove the pulley retaining ring, and then the pulley along with the belt;
• put a new hanging belt on the HF and compressor pulleys;
• we will select a pipe of suitable diameter (so that the diameter is larger than the compressor shaft, but smaller than the hole in the pulley);
• we pass the tube through the pulley and put it on the compressor shaft by about 5 mm and press down a little, the pulley, under the influence of the belt resistance, jumps onto the shaft itself;
• putting everything back together.

At the top of the engine, to change the alternator belt, unscrew the 2 tensioner bolts and leave it on the pin, move it to the right side of the car, and remove the belt!

Reassemble in reverse order. Thus, it will take about an hour to replace the FF2 hanging belts without any problems.

Replacing the alternator drive belt Ford Focus 2 1.8 TDCi

Replacing the alternator belt on a Ford Focus 2 1.8 Flexifuel

An article about replacing the timing belt with your own hands - when a replacement is necessary, product selection, tools, work progress. At the end of the article there is a video about the timing belt.

A modern timing belt is a high-tech product and is made of high-quality reinforced rubber based on artificial rubber (polychloroprene, neoprene) with special additives. Additionally, the high-quality belt is reinforced with a cord with strong internal threads.

Sometimes, at the same time as replacing the belt, it may be necessary to replace the cooling pump.

However, some manufacturers set a clearly inadequate service life for the timing belt. For example, on some Russian Ladas operating in rather difficult Russian conditions, it is recommended to change the belt after 180 thousand km, which looks rather strange. At the same time, on Renault cars, the belts of even the most High Quality from the world's best manufacturers are designed for 60,000 km in Russia, and 120,000 km in Europe.

Replacing the timing belt should be carried out not only in accordance with the maintenance regulations, manufacturer’s recommendations or when it breaks, but also when signs of malfunction appear or in the following cases:

• The timing belt is very old (more than 5 years, even if it has not been used).
• Cracks, abrasions and “fluffing”.
• Destruction of belt teeth.
• Depressurization and leaks in the timing case (oil and coolant destroy the rubber base of the belt).
• If the belt is worn out, the engine may start and run unsteadily.
• Belt wear can cause an ignition failure, after which the engine begins to knock and run noisily, and black smoke begins to come out of the exhaust pipe.

If the belt breaks or its teeth are critically worn, there is a high probability that the pistons will hit the valves and bend them. That's why When choosing a new timing belt, it is important to adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Don't save money and don't buy the cheapest belts(you can choose the average price). You should especially not save money if the car is operated in extremely harsh conditions. Qualitative reliable belt will pay for itself many times over.
2. The best option is to buy the original, which was installed by the engine manufacturer. For greater reliability when choosing, in order to avoid mistakes in the size and shape of the teeth, it is better to remove the old belt and show it to the seller in the store so that he can select the same one. Particular attention should be paid to the width, length and shape of the belt teeth. If it is not possible to buy the original, select an analogue that is closest in quality and parameters to the original.
3. The belt should feel smooth and free of roughness to the touch., and also should not have small potholes or pores. The belt teeth must be free of sagging, only small burrs are acceptable.
4. An important property of the timing belt is its elasticity. The more elastic it is, the longer its service life will be. When purchasing, you can compare the elasticity of several different belts and determine which one is the most “oaky” (hard).
5. If possible, compare the catalog or article number of the old belt with the numbers on the new product. They should be on the back (smooth) side of the belt.
6. A large number of fakes are sold on the automotive spare parts market.. To protect yourself from purchasing a low-quality part, it is better to buy a belt at retail outlets owned by official dealers. It is also recommended to purchase a complete set: a belt with rollers in one sealed package, with instructions. The most frequently counterfeited products are from manufacturers such as Bosch and Gates. To check, you can compare the numbers (on the back) of several identical products - the numbers should be different. If the numbers on all products are the same, then you are dealing with a fake.
7. Online shopping is common today, but do right choice timing belt via the Internet is very difficult.

• Wheel wrench (balloon).
• Open-end, socket and ring wrenches. Dimensions depending on the car brand and engine modification.
• A 5mm hex may be required.
• A wrench specifically designed for the tension roller.
• Jack.
• Flashlight.

Also, some engine modifications may have 2 belts, which are recommended to be changed both at once. Therefore, when preparing to replace your timing belt, you need to be aware of how many belts to buy.

You also need to prepare the car itself:

• Place the car on a level surface.
• Pull (raise) the handbrake.
• Place safety chocks under the wheels.

Where the timing marks are located, and what type they look like, look in the “Operation and Repair Manual” of your car.

1. Raise the hood and disconnect the battery terminal “to minus” (the key in the ignition switch should be “off”) so that the brake lights do not light up in vain and “just in case”.

   Important! Before removing the terminal from the battery and turning off the power to the car, you need to study the “Operation and Repair Manual” of the car. In some cars, you cannot disconnect the terminal from the battery (!), as adaptations will be reset to electronic system management. In this case, you need to work more carefully with a car that is not de-energized.

2. To ensure free access to necessary mechanisms, you will need to remove the wheel, engine cover, protection, and alternator belt. Depending on the make of the car and engine modification, work may require removing the power steering fluid reservoir or adsorber, or the air conditioner bracket, intercooler with terminals, air intake (or something else).
3. Using a hexagon, unscrew the mounting screws protective casing belt and gears.
4. If there is a crankshaft position sensor (CPS), disconnect the connector with wires from it.
5. Unscrew the bolt and remove the timing belt tensioning roller. Also remove the support (guide) roller, if there is one.
6. Remove the old timing belt.
7. Check the position of the mark on one camshaft gear (on an 8-valve engine) or on two gears on two camshafts (on a 16-valve engine) in relation to the marks on the timing case. If the marks do not coincide, to set them in the desired position (against each other), you need to turn the camshaft with a wrench using the bolt securing the gear to the camshaft.
8. To check the alignment of the mark on the crankshaft gear with the mark on the oil pump housing, unscrew and pull out the crankshaft toothed pulley with a special washer. If the pulley bolt does not unscrew, then you can rest the handle of the L-shaped key against the rod, put on the negative terminal of the battery (if it has been removed) and turn it with the starter. After unscrewing the bolt, remove the terminal back.

   You can also use a pneumatic impact wrench or have an assistant engage the highest gear and apply the brake while you unscrew the bolt. If the gear mark is set incorrectly, then screw the fastening bolt into place and turn the gear by this bolt with a wrench until the mark on the crankshaft gear is correctly aligned with the mark on the oil pump housing.

9. Install the support (guide) roller, if equipped.
10. First place the new timing belt on the crankshaft gear, on the support roller, then on the camshaft gear (or two gears, if there are two camshafts) and then on the pump gear. In this case, you need to control the position of the marks on one or two camshaft gears. If the marks are lost, they must be set correctly immediately.
11. Install the tension roller and tighten it loosely, without tightly tightening the bolt until it stops.
12. Check the evenness of the belt pad. Then tighten the belt using a special key for the tension roller, turning the roller counterclockwise (or in the direction of the arrows on the roller body). Next, holding the roller with a special key in the desired position, fix the position of the roller by tightening the fastening bolt until it stops, with a little force.
13. You can check the belt tension with one hand by turning the belt lengthwise with your fingers. A well-tensioned belt should not turn more than 90°.
14. At the final stage, reinstall and secure all dismantled elements in the reverse order.

If, after replacing the timing belt, the car begins to pull poorly, the engine will detonate a little and idle unevenly (and the tachometer needle will jump), and there will be a black exhaust - it means that the marks were set incorrectly when replacing the timing belt. Everything will have to be repeated all over again.

Conclusion

Above was perhaps the simplest (classic) example of replacing a timing belt. However, the labor intensity of replacing the timing belt may differ and be of varying degrees of complexity. It depends on the make and modification of the car, as well as on the modification of the engine. But, in general, the principle is the same everywhere.

Before you start self-replacement timing belt, it is strongly recommended that you study in detail the “Repair Instructions” for your car. And this needs to be done in advance, and not just before the start of work - so that there is time to calmly figure out where everything is, what it looks like, what will need to be removed and how, etc.