How to check the starter solenoid relay for serviceability. Starter retractor relay: device, principle of operation, diagnostic methods and possible malfunctions How to check the serviceability of the starter relay

Not a single car can do without such a device as a starter. On the VAZ "Seven" the performance of this unit directly depends on the serviceability of the relays that provide power supply and start of the starter. If problems arise with switching elements, the causes of the problems must be identified and eliminated in a timely manner.

Starter relay VAZ 2107

The engine on classic Zhiguli cars is started using a starter. Trouble-free operation of this unit is ensured by two relays - control and retractor. If problems occur with these elements, the engine will not be able to start. Therefore, it is worthwhile to dwell in more detail on checking the relay, identifying faults, repairing and replacing.

Starter activation relay

On all classic Zhiguli models, except for the Seven, power to the starter is supplied directly from the ZZh. This design has a significant drawback - the contacts oxidize and burn, which leads to premature failure of the contact group. This is due to the fact that a current exceeding 15 A flows through the locking fluid. On the VAZ 2107, in order to reduce the load on the lock contacts, they began to install an additional starter relay rated for a current of 30 A. This switching element consumes a small current, which does not in any way reduce the reliability of the contact group.

Owners of earlier “classics”, due to the fairly frequent replacement of contacts, install an additional relay themselves.

Where is

Structurally, the starter activation relay is located in the engine compartment on the right side. It is attached to the mudguard (part of the body) using a stud and nut. It is not difficult to locate the relay; to do this, it is enough to trace where the wires from the starter solenoid relay are routed.

Examination

If you encounter difficulties starting the engine on a VAZ 2107, you first need to check the operation of the start relay. If the part turns out to be serviceable, troubleshooting can continue. To diagnose the switching element, you will need a multimeter or a “control” (a regular 12 V car light bulb and wires to connect it). Relay performance is determined as follows:

Video: checking the power supply to the starter relay on a VAZ 2107

Solenoid relay

The starter, by its design, is a small electric motor, a special coupling (Bendix) of which engages with the flywheel of the power unit for a few seconds, causing the crankshaft to rotate. Despite the small size of the starter, when the engine starts, currents that reach hundreds of amperes pass through it. If power is supplied to this device directly through the ZZ, then no contacts will withstand such loads and will burn out. Therefore, to connect the starter to the power source, a special retractor relay is used, which is designed with contacts designed for high currents. This mechanism is structurally located on the starter housing.

The switching device in question is assigned a number of functions:

• connecting the starter to the power source;
• engagement and retention of the bendix with the engine flywheel;
• turning off the starter power after the engine starts running.

Operating principle

The retractor mechanism operates in the following order:

1. When you turn the key in the ZZ, an additional relay is activated.
2. Power from the battery is supplied to the traction relay coil.
3. Under the influence magnetic field the armature goes inside the winding.
4. The starter fork is driven and extends the bendix.
5. The starter sprocket engages with the flywheel of the power unit.
6. A plate attached to the end of the solenoid relay rod connects the contacts to each other.

With the described actions, the engine starts within a few seconds. After activating the starter, the retractor winding stops working, and the current passes through the holding coil, due to which the armature remains in its extreme position. The presence of two windings reduces battery energy consumption during engine starting.

After the motor starts running, electrical circuit the starter opens, the current through the holding coil stops flowing, and the armature, due to the spring, returns to its original position. At the same time, the clutch and coin are removed from the relay contacts, the bendix moves away from the flywheel and the starter is disconnected from the battery.

Malfunctions

Since the retractor operates every time the power unit is started and is subjected to high loads, it gradually wears out and fails. Relay malfunctions can be judged by characteristic features:

• when the engine starts, the starter continues to operate, making a buzzing sound;
• when the engine starts, the relay makes a click, but the starter does not function;
• When you turn the key, the starter spins, but does not engage the flywheel.

Problems can occur for several reasons:

• violation of the integrity of the relay housing;
• problems with the retractor or retention coil;
• burning of contacts;
• weakening of the spring.

All of the listed problems occur as a result of natural wear, burnout of the windings, or destruction of parts of the assembly.

Examination

You can check the relay in two ways - without dismantling the starter and with the device removed. Let's consider both options.

By car

We carry out diagnostics with a multimeter or “control”:

1. Visually assess the integrity of the relay wiring.
2. We check the operation of the relay, for which we turn the key in the ignition switch and listen to the starter: if the click is not heard, the relay is considered faulty.
3. If there is a characteristic sound, but the starter does not turn, the contact coins in the relay itself may be burnt. To check, remove the chip that comes from the ZZ and close the two threaded contacts together. With this connection, the starter will be powered bypassing the relay. Rotation of the starter will indicate a problem with the switching element.
4. We connect the multimeter to the “+” relay, i.e. to the contact where power comes from the battery, and connect the minus to ground. We turn on the ignition and if the voltage is below 12 V, then most likely the battery charge is not enough to start the engine, but enough to trigger the relay.

Video: diagnosing the starter without removing it from the car

With the starter removed

Before dismantling the starter, you need to perform several steps that will allow you to determine the problem:

• we check the condition of the battery and starter terminals, the battery charge and, if necessary, clean the contacts with sandpaper;
• Determine the functionality of the starter relay.

If the above actions did not produce results and the starter still does not work properly, remove it from the car. We clean the assembly from dirt, clean the contacts, and then check:

Video: checking the starter traction relay

Which relay to choose

Solenoid relays are either collapsible or non-dismountable. The first design is older, but such products are interchangeable with the second option. For the VAZ 2107 and other “classics”, the device in question is produced by several manufacturers:

• "KATEK" and "KZATE" (Samara);
• BATE (Belarus);
• "Kedr" (Chelyabinsk);
• Dynamo AD (Bulgaria);
• Iskra (Belarus).

From the above list, the products of “KATEK” and “KZATE” are the highest quality. The cost of solenoid relays from these manufacturers is about 700–800 rubles.

Traction relay repair

Dismantling the solenoid relay is necessary in two cases - to repair or replace the mechanism. Removing it is not difficult, but first you will need to remove the starter itself from the car.

Removing the starter and relay

You will need the following list of tools for work:

• flat screwdriver;
• key for 8, 10 and 13.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Unscrew the starter mount to the clutch housing.
3. Use the head to unscrew the starter fastener from the bottom.
4. Disconnect the connector from the traction relay output.
5. We unscrew the nut securing the wire that connects the contact of the solenoid relay to the battery positive.
6. We take out the starter assembly.
7. We unscrew the terminal fasteners and bend it so that there is no interference with further dismantling.
8. Unscrew the bolts securing the relay to the starter.
9. Remove the switching device.

Disassembly

The solenoid relay is disassembled in order to replace or clean the contacts (nickels):

1. Using a wrench or socket 8, unscrew the fastening of the relay cover to the body.
2. We press on the bolts and remove them from the reverse side.
3. We remove the two contacts by unscrewing the nuts on the cover.
4. Carefully move the relay cover to the side, since the wire will prevent complete removal.
5. Remove the nickels from the lid.
6. Using fine sandpaper, we clean the contacts and the central plate from carbon deposits. If the nickels are severely damaged, we replace them with new ones.
7. We assemble the relay and install the starter in the reverse order.

Video: repairing the starter traction relay

Malfunctions of the additional and retractor relays lead to difficulties or impossibility of starting the starter. The cause of the problem can be identified based on characteristic signs, and repairs can be carried out by every car enthusiast according to step-by-step instructions.

The starter solenoid relay supplies current to the starter motor and also pushes out the bendix. This means that the moment the starter starts to rotate, its bendix is ​​pushed out. In fact, understanding the operation of the starter is not difficult. Today we will help you understand how the solenoid relay works, how to check this element and repair it.

Solenoid relay design and operating principle

In the starter, the solenoid relay engages the flywheel crown with the bendix. All work is based on the principles of electromagnetism. The core, which is made as a hollow tube, inside which the armature is located, is equipped with a wire winding. The current in the coil creates an electromagnetic field, as a result of which the armature enters the core. After the current stops flowing, the armature can move freely.

IN composition of the starter solenoid relay includes:

• frame;
• magnet with windings;
• anchor;
• contacts;
• return spring.

The magnet in the relay is made in the form of a pair of coils - retracting and holding. The relay retractor coil is connected to the electric motor and the control terminal, but the holding coil is connected to the control terminal and is in contact with the housing.

When power is applied to the control contact, magnetic induction occurs in the coil, which leads to the appearance of a magnetic field. As a result, the anchor compresses return spring. At the same moment, the bendix rotates, which connects the starter to the car battery.

At the time when the contacts close, the retractor winding receives power from the “+” terminal, the production of current in the coil stops, but the armature is affected by the field of the holding coil, so it remains inside. When power unit The car starts, the power is cut off, causing the armature to return to its original position under the action of the return spring. The contacts open, which can cause the bendix to disengage.

Common solenoid relay failures

The main reasons for the failure of the starter solenoid relay are as follows:

1. Physical deterioration.
2. Burnout of contact plates.
3. Destruction of components.
4. Winding combustion.

How to determine that the solenoid relay has failed:

• The engine starts, but the starter does not want to turn off, constantly rotating. At this time you hear a characteristic buzzing sound.
• The starter rotates after starting, but cannot start the engine.
• When the key in the ignition switch is turned to its original position, the starter click is heard, but it does not want to rotate.

How to check the starter solenoid relay

As mentioned above, the operation of the solenoid relay, as well as the starter itself, is based on the principle of electromagnetism. When voltage is applied to the windings, the relay acts on the armature. This, in turn, changes the position of the Bendix gear so that it engages with the flywheel ring. At the same time, the contacts close, providing voltage to the starter windings. In order for the car engine to start, all this must happen very quickly. If at least one of the elements does not work correctly, you will not be able to start the car.

To check the starter relay, you do not need to remove this element from the car. Experts advise closing the contact bolts located on the back of the relay using a piece of wire or metal.

As a result of this, you will ensure the supply of current to the starter windings. If this caused the starter to rotate, you can conclude that the starter is working normally, and the problem lies in the relay itself.

If the retractor clicks and the starter does not turn, this indicates that the relay is probably working, and the cause of the breakdown must be looked for directly in the starter.

Repair of starter retractor relay

If you have come to the conclusion that the starter traction relay has failed, you need to repair it. We would like to note right away that in most cases it is much easier to replace this element than to restore its functionality.

Many manufacturers produce non-separable relays in order to make this unit the most reliable. In such situations, you will simply have to replace the solenoid relay with a new one. If the starter in your car is equipped with a detachable relay, you can repair it yourself. Often the relay does not work for the following reasons:

• the mechanical drive has worn out and failed;
• a short circuit has occurred in the winding;
• “nickels” or contacts were burnt.

Each of the above faults can be determined after disassembly. True, to determine the integrity of the windings you will have to use an ohmmeter. When measuring the resistance between the ends of the wire and the body, this indicator should be at least 10 kOhm. Otherwise, the windings have shorted, so you will need to go to the store for a new relay.

Installation of a new or restored relay is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. Many car enthusiasts at this stage have a problem, which is how to connect the starter relay. In order to avoid such troubles, we recommend that you first mark the disconnected terminals. Before installing the relay, be sure to thoroughly clean the contacts and degrease them.

The retractor relay of a car starter is an electromagnet of the ignition system that performs 2 functions at once. Its first function is to bring the Bendix gear in the starter closer to the teeth of the flywheel ring. The second function is to return this gear to its original position after starting the motor. A faulty solenoid relay creates a risk that car engine It just won't start. There are few possible reasons for a relay malfunction.

On what principle does the solenoid relay operate?

Before moving on to the actual malfunctions and methods for correcting them, you should consider the very design of this relay and the principle of its operation. First of all, it should be said that this part is based on a conventional electromagnet, which includes 2 windings (retracting and holding), and the relay design also includes a connection circuit to the starter and a core equipped with a return spring.

When you turn the key in the ignition switch, voltage is supplied from car battery to the relay windings. As a result, an electromagnetic field appears that moves the core, which is located in the housing. The core compresses the return spring. As a result, the opposite end of the “fork” shifts towards the flywheel. During these processes, the gear, which is connected to the bendix, is pushed outward until it engages with the flywheel (its crown). The consequence of engagement is the closure of contacts on the built-in circuit for switching on the car starter. Then the retracting winding is switched off, and the core is given a fixed position with the help of the holding winding that continues to operate.

When the engine is turned off with the key in the ignition switch, the voltage supply to the relay will immediately stop. The anchor returns to its original position. The Bendix and the fork that are connected to it change their position, which consists of their engagement with the flywheel. A breakdown of the solenoid relay can be considered critical, as it makes it impossible to start the engine.

Solenoid relay circuit

Studying the diagram of this starter part can simplify your understanding of the operating principle of the device.

The relay has a pull-in winding, always connected to the negative side via the starter. The holding coil of the relay is connected directly to the battery. After the relay core presses the work plate against the bolts, “plus” is supplied to the starter from the battery. The same “plus” is also supplied to the output of the “minus” located on the pull-in winding. As a result, the latter is switched off, and the electric current continues to move exclusively on the holding winding. The holding winding is weaker than the retracting winding, but its strength allows for constant retention of the core in the housing, so that the engine can operate continuously. The use of two windings makes it possible to achieve significant savings in battery energy when starting the engine.

Relay failure: causes and symptoms

The external manifestations of a car starter solenoid relay failing are as follows:

• Turning the ignition key does not start the engine, or it can only be started after several attempts.
• The starter rotates at high speed after the engine starts. This can be heard by the loud hum of the engine.

A relay failure is one of the likely reasons for the inability to start the car. In its turn, possible reasons There are several failures of the solenoid relay:

• burnout of the contact plates located in the inner part of the relay (commonly called “nickels”), reduction in the contact area and “sticking” of these plates;
• winding breakage or burnout;
• curvature of the return spring or its weakening;
• short circuit, formed in the winding.

If at least one of these symptoms is detected, the solenoid relay must be diagnosed.

How to test a relay

There are 2 ways to check. Let's look at them in more detail:

• The operation of the relay is determined quite easily - when started, a click is heard, which is produced by the moving core (4). This click indicates that the relay is working properly. If there is no click, we can conclude that the solenoid relay does not operate. If the relay clicks, but the starter does not rotate, the cause of this may be burning of the contacts in the relay.
• When a relay operates with a peculiar rattling sound, it can be determined that there are faults in one or both of its windings (2, 3). In this situation, it is possible to check the solenoid relay using an ohmmeter by determining the resistance of the relay windings. It is necessary to remove the core (4) from the housing, as well as the return spring (5, 7, 11), then determine in pairs the resistance between the ground and the windings. It should be between 1 and 3 ohms. Then it is necessary to insert the core (4) back without inserting the spring (5, 7, 11), close the power contacts (8) and determine the resistance formed between them. It should be from 3 to 5 Ohms and is determined by the specific relay. If the measured value is not within the above range, this indicates a short circuit and failure of the relay windings (2, 3).

I suppose many drivers have found themselves in a situation where the engine flatly refused to start? This problem especially often arises among owners of old Lada cars, and in general, in domestic cars, because they don’t want to work normally. It's good if the battery is dead. No, this, of course, is very bad, but it is much better than the covered wiring, the entire starter or its solenoid relay, because the battery can be recharged from any car by throwing in the wires, and serious problems will arise with the rest. However, in order to avoid getting into such a nasty situation, it would be nice to know How to check the starter solenoid relay- will be useful for any driver in the future.

Preparation for testing and necessary tools

In order to properly reach the solenoid relay with your hands, you need to take care of access to it. If you still have a foreign car, then you will have to drive the car into a hole, an overpass, or, in extreme cases, jack it up as much as possible in order to crawl under it, because in most foreign cars this part is accessible only from below, and if you are the owner of a miracle of the domestic automobile industry , then everything is much simpler and easier - just open the hood. Having found the solenoid relay, look for the terminals on it. This is not difficult to do, because there will be a wire on one of the terminals - this is the positive terminal.

A multimeter must be connected to this positive terminal in voltmeter mode. This is done easily and simply. Connect the red (positive) wire of the multimeter to the relay terminal, and connect the black (negative) wire to the vehicle ground. After connecting, either secure the wires in this position, or call a passerby, a friend, a relative (underline the tedious) so that he (she) starts the engine. And you look at the readings of the device, which should produce a stable 12 volts when the starter clicks repeatedly.

Display errors and checking

The starter can deceive you, because it can click even at lower voltage. By the way, if it (voltage) is below 12 volts, then you need to charge the battery and/or check the ignition switch. In this case, all that remains is to resort to checking directly. To do this, turn off the engine, disconnect the wire from the relay (the one that comes from the ignition) and use a screwdriver to short-circuit the positive terminal. This is a simple way to apply voltage directly to the starter relay.

If the car did not start at all, then such actions can directly start it instantly. By the way, if the car starts when connected directly, then either the ignition switch is closed and needs to be changed, or the relay is rotten and also needs to be changed. That's all the checks. As you can see, there is nothing complicated or secret in this matter, and even a novice car enthusiast can cope with such a task.

Really good and competent mechanics, if the starter or relay breaks down, strongly recommend replacing the entire assembly rather than buying and installing individual parts. The fact is that the relays and the starter work in unison and detailed replacement of individual parts can cost, if not more, then the same amount. The question is, why buy part of a unit when you can buy the whole thing for the same money?

The procedure for checking if the engine does not start is always the same. First, the battery charge is checked, then the ignition itself, and lastly the starter with its retractor relay. No need to do the opposite, just waste extra time.

And one last thing. If the entire unit fails, do not rush to throw it in the trash. Many offices completely replace their filling, and the money is cheaper than buying a new one. The economy will be modest, but it will be there.

The ability to start the engine by turning the ignition key from inside the car and without much physical effort can easily be considered one of the most significant achievements of designers in terms of improving the consumer qualities of a car. However, sometimes it happens that you cannot start the car with an electric starter. The reasons for such an unpleasant event are varied, but the list of the most likely among them includes a malfunction of the solenoid relay. A savvy car enthusiast is able to quickly localize and diagnose such a breakdown. on our own, then carry out repairs and restore the vehicle to normal operation without contacting a service center and with minimal financial costs. An assistant will be required to perform some of the checks.

Purpose and design of the retractor relay

The starter solenoid relay is a two-winding traction electromagnet that has a movable core with a return spring and is used to activate the overrunning clutch. Often, for reasons of increasing overall reliability, it is structurally designed as one of the functional blocks of the starter.

The engine starts from the starter due to the rotation of the flywheel in the desired direction, which occurs through the corresponding gear. Therefore, when current is supplied to the retractor winding of the relay, the starter (Bendix) clutch gear is moved to the operating position and engages with the flywheel ring gear, further compressing the return spring. When the clutch reaches its extreme forward position, to reduce current consumption, the retracting winding is turned off and only the holding winding remains under current. Then the starter motor turns on.

Constant engagement of the bendix and the flywheel is unacceptable and it must be broken after starting the engine. To do this, when the ignition key is removed from the start position, the current supply circuit to the holding winding is broken, the force of fixing the clutch in the forward position disappears, and the return spring moves the relay rod to its original position.

The need to use the rather complex procedure presented here is due to the fact that

• turning to it reliably protects the starter from failure (it is not carried away by the running engine and does not go into generator mode);
• There is no coloring of the gear teeth and ring gear.

Signs of relay failure and their causes

The relay fails due to mechanical wear and jamming, burning of contacts, breaks in current-carrying circuits. The following indicates a malfunction of this unit:

• When trying to start the engine, the starter spins without cranking crankshaft engine;
• an attempt to start the engine is accompanied by a characteristic click without rotation of the starter, or the starter does not develop the speed required for starting;
• After the engine starts running, the starter does not turn off and again operates with a characteristic high-pitched sound.

Reasons for starter relay failure:

• breaking the current transmission circuits to the pull-in and holding windings;
• the return spring has weakened;
• burnt contacts;
• the winding is damaged;
• destruction of the hull.

Checking the relay without dismantling the starter

Checking the functionality of the solenoid relay at the first stage does not require disassembling and dismantling the starter:

1. Visually check the absence of breaks in the connecting wires to the relay.
2. After turning the ignition key to the “Start” position, a characteristic click should be heard.
3. If there is a click and the starter does not start, there may be a malfunction of the lock or its contacts.
4. To check the serviceability of the lock, remove the relay wire that connects it to the lock. Then, using a screwdriver, this terminal is short-circuited to the battery terminal (the operation is equivalent to bridging the lock). If the engine starts, the cause of the failure is the relay.

Diagnostics without removing the starter using a multimeter

To do this, use a multimeter (tester) to first sequentially measure the voltage at the terminals of the battery, disconnected from the vehicle’s on-board network. It is approximately 12.7 V. If the device readings are less than 12 V, the battery is considered to be severely discharged and is not suitable for further testing.

Next, restore the normal connection of the wires and measure the voltage at the battery terminals and relay contacts. Compared to the previous case, it changes by no more than 0.1 V and will be equal at both control points. Turn the key to the start position. The voltage at the relay contacts should not fall below 12 V. Otherwise, the connecting wires are most likely faulty; it is possible that one or more contacts in the current flow circuit have burnt out.

Checking with the starter removed using a multimeter

This test of the solenoid relay allows you to very accurately perform internal diagnostics and determine the condition of the windings and contacts.
Dismantling the starter, depending on the make of the car, is carried out in various ways. For VAZ 2110, this procedure is carried out from below from the pit. Before unscrewing the fasteners, remove the wires (it is better to mark the terminals so as not to confuse them during assembly); you may need to remove the crankcase protection.

To begin with, voltage is applied from the battery to the body and terminals of the relay; operation is accompanied by a characteristic click and visible movement of the rod.
Further checks are carried out using a multimeter, which is switched to resistance measurement mode and the range of 200 Ohms is selected.

Video: Checking the starter removed from the car

First, check the serviceability of the retractor and retention coils. To do this, one of the probes is connected to ground, the second touches the contacts in succession. The device readings are 2 ohms. Deviation of the device readings from the specified value is a sign of a break or short circuit. To check the power contacts, remove the core from the relay body and remove the return spring, after which the core is inserted back. The core rod is pressed against the table with a certain force and the resistance between the contacts is replaced. The resistance is approximately 1.5 ohms.

Conclusion

Diagnosing a malfunction of the solenoid relay is not a complex technical procedure; it can be carried out by a car enthusiast with an average level of knowledge in electrical engineering and possessing plumbing skills. When working, you only need knowledge of the principles of operation of this unit. Accurate diagnosis is made using a multimeter.
The relay is not a device that can be repaired in a garage. Therefore, the faulty relay is replaced with a new one.

Seal