Buy a charge module. Module for charging Li-ion batteries

In this review we will talk about a very convenient board with a charge controller based on
TP4056. The board also has battery protection installed.
li-ion 3.7V.

Suitable for converting toys and household appliances from batteries to rechargeable batteries.
This is a cheap and efficient module that supports charging current up to 1A.

Briefly about adjusting the charging current for TP4056

Charge controller module TP4056 + battery protection S-8205A/B Series BATTERY PROTECTION IC
Provides protection against overcharge, overdischarge, triple protection against overload and short circuit.
Maximum charging current: 1A
Maximum continuous discharge current: 1A (peak 1.5A)
Charging voltage limitation: 4.275 V ±0. 025 V
Discharge limit (cut-off): 2.75 V ±0. 1 V
Battery protection, chip: DW01.
B+ connects to battery positive terminal
B- connects to the negative terminal of the battery
P- connects to the negative terminal of the load and charging connection point.

There is R3 on the board (marked 122 - 1.2 kOhm), to select the desired charging current for the element, select a resistor according to the table and resolder it.

Just in case, a typical inclusion of TP4056 from the specification.

This is not the first time that a lot of TP4056+BMS modules has been taken, and it turned out to be very
convenient for trouble-free alterations of household appliances and toys
batteries.

The modules are small in size, just smaller in width than two AA batteries,
flat - great for installing old batteries from
cell phones.

For charging, a standard 5V source from USB is used, the input is
MicroUSB The photo shows the minus and plus contacts on the sides of the MicroUSB
connector

There is nothing on the back side - this can help when attaching it with glue or tape.

MicroUSB connectors are used for power. Old boards on TP4056 had MiniUSB.

You can solder the boards together at the input and connect only one to USB -
in this way it is possible to charge 18650 cascades, for example, for
screwdrivers.

Outputs - extreme contact pads for connecting the load (OUT +/–),
in the middle BAT +/– to connect the battery cell.

The fee is small and convenient. Unlike just modules on TP4056, there is battery cell protection here.

The module is ideal for installation in various household appliances and
toys that are powered by 2-3-4-5 AA cells or
AAA. Firstly, this brings some savings, especially with frequent
replacing batteries (in toys), and, secondly, convenience and versatility.
You can use batteries taken from old batteries for power supply.
from laptops, cell phones, disposable electronic cigarettes, etc.
Further. In case there are three elements, four, six and so on,
you need to use the StepUp module to increase the voltage from 3.7V to
4.5V/6.0V etc. Depending on the load, of course. Also convenient
option on two battery cells (2S, two boards in series,
7.4V) with StepDown board. Typically, StepDowns are adjustable, and
You can adjust any voltage within the supply voltage. This
extra space to accommodate AA/AAA batteries instead, but then you don’t have to
worry about the electronics of the toy.

Specifically, one of the boards was intended for the old IKEA
mixer. Very often it was necessary to replace the batteries in it, but
it worked poorly in batteries (in NiMH 1.2V instead of 1.5V). Everything for the motor
it doesn’t matter whether it will be powered by 3V or 3.7V, so I did without StepDown.
It even began to turn a little more vigorously.

Battery 08570 from an electronic cigarette is almost an ideal option
for any modifications (capacity is about 280 mAh, and the price is free).

But in this case it’s a bit long. The length of the AA battery is 50 mm, and
This battery is 57 mm, it won’t fit. You can, of course, make an “add-on”
for example, from polymorph plastic, but...

As a result, I took a small model battery with the same capacity. Very
it is advisable to reduce the charging current (up to 250...300 mA) by increasing the resistor
R3 on the board. You can heat the standard one, bend one end, and solder it
any available at 2-3 kOhm.

On the left is a picture of the old module. Placement on the new module
The components are different, but all the same elements are present.

We connect the battery (Solder it) to the terminals in the middle BAT +/–,
unsolder the motor contacts from the contactor plates for AA batteries (their
remove it altogether), solder the motor load to the board output (OUT +/–).

You can cut a hole in the lid with a Dremel for USB.

I made a new lid - I completely threw out the old one. The new one has grooves for placing the board and a hole for MicroUSB.

As a battery for a mixer, it turns vigorously. Capacity 280mAh
enough for a few minutes of work, it takes 3-6 days to charge,
depending on how often you use it (I rarely use it, you can do it at once
plant if you get carried away). Due to the reduced charging current, it takes a long time to charge,
a little less than an hour. But any charging from a smartphone.
The TP4056 module with built-in BMS protection is very practical and versatile.
The module is designed for a charging current of 1A.

The module is convenient for remaking toys - radio-controlled cars,
robots, various lamps, remote controls... - all possible toys and
equipment where batteries have to be changed frequently.

Price: $0.69

The board is quite miniature.

Despite the presence of a USB micro input for power supply, the plus and minus inputs are also duplicated with terminals.

This is a very good plus. I'll explain why.

Firstly, you can take some kind of power supply and solder the wires directly to the board. It will help if the USB-micro input turns out to be faulty for some reason.

Secondly, you can take, say, 3 boards, connect three input pluses and three input minuses (you get a parallel connection), and then 3 batteries can be charged simultaneously from one power supply. And if you want to charge the batteries faster, you can connect a second or even a third charger.

By the way, the outputs to the battery can also be parallelized.

That is, if you connect the same 3 boards not only at the input, but also at the output, you can get a very powerful charger for lithium-ion batteries. In this case it will be a 3A charger.

But there is still one rather funny moment - the holes on the output plus and minus are of different diameters. I don’t know why this is so.

Well, okay, this is a small thing. The main thing is that it works properly. By the way, this is exactly what we will do now - checking the functionality of this board.

Test 1. Cut-off upon full charge.

I carried out this test on two batteries - an original Panasonic with 3400mAh and a fake noname with 5000mAh (and seriously - 450mAh).

A blue light on the board indicates that the battery charge is complete. The multimeter shows 4.23V. Yes, I don’t argue, 4.25V on a charged battery is also within the normal range, but... In general, above 4.2V is not desirable. Or maybe something will change if the board is disconnected?

Almost the same ideal 4.2V. Those. The battery is still charged “no frills”. But what happens if you forget to remove the battery immediately after it is fully charged? Note that in the above photo it is almost 6 pm. Let's connect the charger back and leave it in this state for several hours.

(after 5 something hours)

I disconnected the board again so that it would not interfere with the battery voltage measurements. So what's the result?

There was no increase in battery voltage. Maybe it's the battery capacity? What happens if instead of original Panasonics you charge fake nonames with 450mAh of real capacity? That's what I did - first I discharged one such battery, and then set it to charge. And fell asleep.

And in the morning... Well, we turn off the charging board and...

So, we found out that the charge cutoff occurs when the voltage reaches 4.2V. But in the photo the voltage is lower. Those. After the charge is complete, no “refueling” occurs. Let me explain. Some chargers, after finishing charging, continue to supply a small current (literally 10-15mA) in order to compensate for the self-discharge of the battery. This doesn't happen here. But it's not scary. Excessive charge is much worse.

Let's draw a line:
- charges to a voltage of 4.19V and makes a cutoff
- self-discharge compensation is not performed.

Simply put, the test was passed successfully.

Test 2. Current.

The Chinese promised that this board is capable of charging with current up to 1A. Shall we check? To do this, I almost discharged one of the existing Panasonics (to about 3.3V), and then put it on charge. So what do we have?

Observant people will ask: “Why did you remove the USB tester from the circuit? Don’t you trust him or what?” Friends, this USB tester is good for measuring battery capacity, but it is not suitable for measuring the power of the charging board. And that's why. Literally immediately I integrated the USB tester back into the circuit and...

... and the charge current dropped by as much as 200mA. It is for this reason that I ALWAYS put dislikes on those videos where a guy takes a USB charger, plugs in such a tester, gives a load, the current output does not correspond to the declared one (for example, it is stated 2A, but the output is 1.5A), and then there is a dispute He opens it with the seller, saying, how is this possible, 1.5A is not enough for me, give me 2A! I don't know what this is connected with, but after I took these 2 photos, I removed the USB tester from the circuit again and the charge current was restored to 1A.

So the board fully complies with this specification.

Test 3. Heating.

Well, everything is simple here - I waited 10 minutes, and then “read” the temperature using a pyrometer.

I won't figure out if this is normal or not. I'll just add an aluminum radiator to it.

Test 4. Behavior when working with overcharged batteries.

Friends, in parallel with the review of this charging board, I am also releasing a review of Panasonic. Therefore, in these two reviews several photos will be the same. So here it is. For the sake of the test, I discharged one of the Panasonics to an unacceptably low voltage.

And now the hearts of Panasonic data lovers are bleeding. After all, they expected to see a discharge of up to 2.4V, maybe even 2.2V, but not 1.77V.

I reset the tester counter and set it to charge. And here I was pleasantly surprised. I expected that due to the low resistance of the battery, the current would be prohibitively high, that even with a USB tester the current would be closer to 2A, that the charging board would work under furious overloads, almost in a short circuit, and other drama that makes radio amateurs sit and shaking with thoughts like “what are you doing, you bastard!” Nothing like this.

A total of 80mA (OK, round to 100) - the so-called “recovery” current. Fantastic! Those. This board can also work with over-discharged batteries!

Or maybe it's just buggy? Don't think. After some time, when the battery absorbed approximately 35mAh, the current went off scale beyond 1A.

While I turned on the digital camera, while I was setting it up, while I was back and forth, the battery absorbed 50mAh. It is these that we will subtract from the final capacity that the USB tester will show us. But that's a completely different story.

Friends, considering the price of 50 rubles, this microcircuit is worthy of applause.

Wisdom: the more a grandmother loves her grandson, the more this grandson takes it out on his parents.

The film company "Exposure" presents... Thriller "Cable Cutter". Starring:

The price is for 2 pieces.

I needed to power one device from a 18650 lithium battery that operates on 3 - 4 volts. To implement this idea, we needed a circuit that can:
1 - protect the battery from overdischarge
2 - charge lithium batteries
I found a small scarf on Aliexpress that did all this and was not at all expensive.


Without hesitation, I immediately bought a lot of two such boards for $3.88. Of course, if you buy 10 of them, you can find them for $1. But I don't need 10 pieces.
After 2 weeks the boards were in my hands.
For those interested, the unpacking process and a quick overview can be seen here:

The charging circuit is made on a specialized TP4056 controller
Description of which:
From the second leg to the ground there is a resistance of 1.2 kOhm (designated R3 on the board), by changing the value of this resistance you can change the battery charging current.


Initially it costs 1.2 kOhm, which means the charge current is 1 Ampere.

Various other converters can be connected to this board. for example, if you connect such a DC/DC converter


Then we get something like a power bank. Since we will have +5V at the output.
And if you connect a universal step-up DC/DC converter to the LM2577S


Then we get from 4 to 26 volts at the output. Which is very good and will cover all our needs.
In general, having a lithium battery, even from an old phone, and such a board, we get a universal kit for many tasks in powering our devices.
You can watch the video review in detail: