Central car lock. Connecting the central locking Control by minus

To search for circuits, try to use a voltmeter (especially in cars of recent years of production), since using a lamp probe may damage the car's auto electrics!!!

Usually, connection to central locking is the most difficult and time-consuming task when installing an alarm system. To connect to the central locking, you need to know what type of central locking is installed on your car. There are not so many of these types.

1st type: central locking controlled by negative impulse

Simply put, there are two wires, when a minus is applied to which the doors are locked or unlocked. We sit down with a probe to ground and poke at the wires coming out of the door (the probe should not be a diode, but with a light bulb, otherwise the minus may not be enough to control the central locking). When you hit the right wire, the doors will close or open. Here they are - the wires we need! Be sure to check that these two wires work even when the driver's door is closed. If you cannot find the wires from the door, but are absolutely sure that your car has a central lock controlled by minus, then you need to look for wires in other places.

Where, for example, is the central locking unit located in your car? Open and close doors using the remote control. or using the central locking control button and listen to where the relays click. These relays are located in the central locking unit. See what this block represents? If it is not difficult to disassemble, disassemble it. You see - there is a stick(s) there. Try applying negatives to the relay legs with a probe. In most cases, if you manage to disassemble the central locking unit, there are two points, when a minus is applied to them, the doors are controlled. This is where you will need to solder the wires from the alarm.

Another place to look for wires that control the central locking is the driver's door (in many Hondas, by the way, the central locking unit is located in the driver's door). Try using a probe to apply negative voltage to the wires in the door, without disconnecting the power window control unit and the central locking control button. Maybe the necessary wires are right here. Pull the wires from the alarm into the door.

As you already understood, in this case we need minuses to come from the alarm to the wires that control the central locking. If you have a car alarm with low-current negative outputs for controlling the central locking, then connect these wires directly to the ones you found using the probe.

If you have a car alarm with low-current negative/positive outputs (this is when there is a minus on one alarm wire when arming, for example, and a plus on the second at this time), then connect in the same way as written above, but through diodes - the minus goes to the central locking wires, plus - does not go. This is important - otherwise you can burn out the alarm or, even worse, some equipment in the car.

If you have an alarm with power outputs to the central locking (with built-in relays), then connect as follows: normally open (NO) contacts of the built-in relays to minus, normally closed (NC) contacts are not used, common (O) contacts to the found wires management.

2nd type: central locking controlled by positive impulse

Again, as in type 1, there are two control wires, when positive is applied to them, the doors will be unlocked or locked. The search method is absolutely identical to that described above (with a negative control pulse), only we use the probe not on the minus, but on the plus. In this connection to the central locking, we need positive signals to flow from the alarm to the wires that control the central locking.

If you have an alarm system with low-current negative outputs for central locking control, then you need to use additional relays and connect as follows: common relay contacts to the found wires, NC contacts are not used, NO contacts and one side of the relay coils are positive, the other side of the coils is to the wires from a car alarm.

If you have an alarm system with low-current negative/positive outputs, then connect directly to the found wires through diodes - the pluses go to the central locking wires, the minuses do not. This is important - otherwise you can burn out the car alarm or, even worse, some equipment in the car.

If you have an alarm with power outputs to the central locking (with built-in relays), then connect as follows: NO contacts of the built-in relays to plus, NC contacts are not used, O contacts to the found control wires.

3rd type: central locking with alternating polarity

This is such a harmful type (often found among Americans). Here you will have to connect directly to the power wires. We sit down with a probe on the plus and look for the wires on which the minuses hang (the probe light is on), we control the central locking from the remote control or button. If the probe light goes out when closing or opening, and then lights up again, then we change the probe to minus and poke into the same wire and again control the central lock. If the probe light comes on when closing or opening, then this is one of the wires we need. We are looking for the second power wire in the same way. Roughly speaking, we found wires that directly control the door drives. What is a drive? Yes, ordinary motors! Plus on one wire, minus on the other - the motor spun in one direction and the doors closed, reversed the polarity - the motor spun in the other direction and the doors opened.

When connecting an alarm to such a lock, you need to be especially careful. The fact is that here you have to break the found power wires and connect the alarm to the gaps. And if you mix up the ends (for example, connect the wire from the alarm to the end that goes to the button, but it should have gone to the end that goes to the drive), then you can burn something important and expensive (at best, the fuses will fly). Therefore, be careful and measure, check, think seven times - then just do it!

So, we found the power wires (usually they come out of the driver’s door), now we’re hooking up. First, cut the found wires. If you have an alarm system with low-current negative/positive outputs, then you need to use 2 relays. We hook up as follows. NO contacts of additional relays to the plus, NC contacts of additional relays to the wires going to the central locking control button or to the central locking unit, O contacts of additional relays to the wires going to the door drives. Connect the outputs from the alarm to the coil of additional relays (to either side), and set the second leg of the relays to plus or minus (depending on the outputs of your car alarm: if negative, then to plus, if positive, then to minus).

If you have an alarm system with power outputs, then we connect like this: NO contacts to the positive, NC contacts to the wires going to the central locking control button or to the central locking unit, O contacts to the wires going to the electric door drives.

If, for example, you have found where the central locking unit is located, but cannot disassemble it, then find the power wires coming out of it to the electric door drives and connect to them as to a central lock with alternating polarity. This is especially easier when the alarm system has power outputs for controlling the central locking, and supplying minus/plus signals to the control wires of the central locking unit does not give anything (such units are installed on Chevrolet Niva, some Hondas, on domestic VAZs with factory central locking, etc.). d.).

Video of searching for central locking wires (type 3 - alternating polarity)

By the way, if you need to install your own drives (you don’t have a central lock in your car), then the connection is similar to this type, with the only difference being that the NC contacts of the relay (both built-in and remote) must be connected to the negatives. Well, of course, you don’t need to cut anything - you throw in your wires and cling to them (i.e., the O-contacts of the relay go to the drive).

Another type of central lock, 4th: vacuum

Found mainly among German car manufacturers. Here the control goes through one wire, when unlocking this wire is positive, when locking it is negative. This wire is either located near the compressor (in the trunk or under the rear seat) or comes from the central locking control button.

We are looking for it: we set the probe to minus, poke into the wires and control the central locking. When opened, the probe light should light up. We change the probe to the plus - a mass should appear on the same wire when closed. We cut the found wire and pick up the breaks, but carefully, as in the previous type, otherwise it is fraught with consequences for the car’s electronics or alarm system. To be sure that you have found exactly the right wire, do the following: feed the plus and then the minus into the gap of the found wire through the probe to the side that goes to the compressor. The doors must first open, then close.

If you have a car alarm with built-in power relays, then we do this: NO contact of the unlocking relay to positive, NO contact of the locking relay to ground, NC contact of the unlocking relay to the break in the wire to the central locking control button, NC contact of the locking relay to O - contact of the unlocking relay, O-contact of the locking relay into the gap on the compressor side.

If the alarm system has low-current negative outputs, then connect in the same way as stated above, using additional relays. From the alarm the wires go to the relay coils, set the other side of the coils to positive.

If the alarm system has low-current positive outputs, then the connection is similar to the previous one, only place one side of the coils on the minus, not the plus. Sometimes, when connecting to this type of central locking, it was necessary to disassemble the pneumatic pump and cut the power wires that control the pump motor right inside.

Of course, not all methods and tricks for connecting to car locks are described here. But, having this knowledge, you can easily connect to most central locks.

And one more thing: (this is purely our opinion) soldering somewhere to control the central locking is the last thing if there are no other options. It’s better to try to do everything outside the blocks using relays, diodes, transistors, etc.

As a last resort, there are matching modules that allow you to connect the alarm system to the car via the CAN bus! Use them.

The presence of central locking in a car significantly increases the level of comfort. The vast majority of modern cars are equipped with a similar function. The rest of the drivers have . Let's look at how to connect the central locking, as well as installing a simple remote control.

The fundamental difference between the main types of central locking

Fundamentally, devices for automatic unlocking/locking of door locks can be divided into 2 types:

• Central locking with electric drive. Electric activators are installed in the doors. Each mechanism can have an individual control unit or be controlled by a single unit (this is the scheme used on budget cars);
• pneumatic central locking. The activator rod moves due to changes in air pressure inside the line. At the moment, the system is outdated and not used; in the past, such systems were installed by Mercedes, BMW, VW, Audi. It is not economically feasible to restore such a system or install it yourself. It is much easier to install electrical activators by connecting everything to a unit with a remote control function.

We will consider central locking with electric drives. Devices of this type are divided into 2 types:

• with positive potential control;
• with negative potential control.

What a control signal is and why it is needed will become clear to you when we look at the operating principle of the simplest central locking system. As an example, let's take the most common scheme on budget cars with minus control. The schematic diagram is taken from the Opel Astra F repair and operation manual.

How does the simplest central locking work?

You can immediately see that a 5-wire activator is installed in the driver's door. Some car manufacturers, wanting to save money, do not install a control servo in the driver's door, but only a button.

What we see in the diagram:

• S41 – limit switch located at the driver's door lock cylinder. When turning the key to unlock or lock, a negative potential is briefly (about 1 second) applied to the central locking unit.
• S42 – passenger front door switch.
• M18, M19, M20, M32 – door activators. M41 – gas tank flap lock, M60 – trunk servo drive; To operate servos, 2 wires are enough, which are called power wires. The potential difference on these wires starts the motor, which moves the lock rod. Depending on which wire has - and which has +, the motor will spin in one direction or the other. The third wire (blue-black) is required by the standard alarm system to monitor the status of the locks.
• K37 – central locking control unit. To operate, the block necessarily requires a constant + and mass. Two signal wires (white-brown and brown) come to the block from the passenger actuators. In idle mode they have little positive potential. The appearance of a minus on one of the wires provokes closing, and on the second - opening. It is this minus signal that determines whether the central locking is controlled by minus or plus. Depending on which wire - appears on, the unit supplies voltage of the required polarity to the power wires.

This is exactly how the simplest central locking works, which does not even react to whether the driver’s door is open or closed. The simplest central locking control unit works according to a circuit of two 5-wire relays. We invite you to watch a video that describes in detail the principle of operation and the method of connecting two-wire activators.

How to implement remote control

The remote control unit from Aliexpress, attractive for its low cost, has recently gained great popularity. Using a block of this type, you can connect a remote control to a standard system or equip a car with a central locking system yourself, having previously purchased 4 two-wire activators. Of course, there can be no talk of protecting the car from theft. Such a budget central locking control unit can only perform a service function.

Pressing a button on the key fob replaces physically turning the key in the lock cylinder to unlock and lock the car. Receiving the signal, the control unit supplies voltage to the power wires. Only 6 wires are responsible for the operation of the unit and car locks:

• constant +, protected by a fuse (in our case - 15A);
• weight;
• 2 power wires going to the servos;
• 2 control wires.

The remaining wires are connected for light signaling, glass closers, etc.; You can separately power the opening of the trunk or the gas tank flap.

The unit in question can be implemented not only into a standard system with minus or plus control, but also into a central locking system with a vacuum drive. The remote control unit comes with instructions that allow you to connect the system in parallel with the standard central locking unit. In this case, the functionality of the factory control unit is maintained.

Connection

Central locking diagram for connecting universal two-wire actuators.

The positive wire can be pulled directly from the battery, installing a 15A fuse as close to the battery as possible, or taken from a protected circuit in the fuse box. Current consumption depends on the power and number of central locking servos. We recommend reading how to calculate the fuse rating. The mass can be any bolt bolted to the car body.

If you have connected the wires, but when you press the “close” button the activators open the locks, swap the power wires (in our case, white and white-black).

A blue wire comes out of the central locking remote control unit for unlocking/closing the trunk, on which a “minus” appears when the key is pressed. You can connect the trunk using an additional 4-pin relay. How to connect the relay is clearly shown in the video. When connecting the brown wire, arming and disarming the vehicle will be accompanied by blinking of the parking lights or turning lights. The green wire is the control signal for finishing the glass. After closing the car doors, voltage is applied to it for about 30 seconds, which is enough to raise the windows even from the fully lowered position.

Pay careful attention to the connections and insulation of the wires. Do not proceed with the connection without understanding the electrical circuit and the principle of operation of the central locking system on your car. Improper installation of the central lock with your own hands carries the risk of a car fire. We hope the videos provided will help answer any remaining questions about installing a central locking system with remote control.

Once the wind generator is built and charges the battery, sooner or later the question of a battery charging controller arises. I now have two wind generators that directly charge three car batteries, but in this mode I have to monitor the charging and turn off the batteries when they are charged, etc., but this is not always possible. Often, in a strong wind, the batteries quickly boil, but they do not have time to charge completely, and they have to be turned off so that the water does not boil away.

In order not to monitor the battery, I thought about a controller, but buying a ready-made controller for a wind generator is too expensive for me. I began to look for easier and cheaper ways to control battery voltage. I saw a lot of different circuits on the Internet, but I’m not good at electronics and I’m unlikely to be able to solder something like that. But a solution was found after a long period of “smoking on the forums.”

It turns out that an automobile generator relay-regulator is an almost ready-made ballast regulator for a windmill, since it maintains the generator voltage within specified limits by turning off the excitation winding in the automobile generator when the voltage exceeds 14.4 volts. But instead of the excitation winding, my generators have permanent neodymium magnets glued in and they cannot be turned off.

If you can’t control the generator voltage, you can simply burn excess energy by dumping it on an additional load (ballast) while charging the battery. Then the car relay-regulator is used as a signal for the key, which drains the excess onto the ballast.

The entire controller consists of only four parts, this is the relay-regulator itself with negative control (Volga, Gazelle, UAZ), a transistor (irfz44n), a 120 kOhm resistor, and a ballast, which can be used as car main light bulbs, an incandescent filament, a boiler and much more that can consume a lot of energy.

Below is a photo of a homemade controller for a wind generator. The controller works like this: when the voltage on the battery rises above 14 volts, the voltage disappears at terminal “W” of the relay-regulator, this voltage locks the transistor and when there is none, the transistor opens and passes current through itself to the ballast load, and when the voltage drops below 14 volts, then voltage appears again at pin “Ш”, which closes the transistor and no current passes through it.

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In the circuit, I used a relay-regulator "Astro 58.3702 14 volt 5 Ampere", any analogues with negative control can be used, that is, they must turn the negative voltage on and off. This regulator has a transparent body and there are two lights, the red one indicates that it is on, and the green one lights up when the voltage is above 14 volts and indicates that the battery is charged.

The transistor used IRFZ44N, this is a powerful transistor that can pass high currents through itself up to 49 Amperes. I pulled the resistor out of the old circuit from the charger, and as a ballast I had a 100/90 watt car light bulb, connected the low and high beams in series.

I ordered the transistor online, and everything else at an auto parts store, but I assembled and connected the controller in just an hour and it immediately started working without any problems. True, I struggled a little with connecting the transistor, since this was the first time in my life that I held such a contraption in my hands, but everything worked out. As you can see in the photo below, the controller was assembled literally “on the knee” even without a soldering iron, but it works perfectly, and the cost of the parts is only 200 rubles.

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By the way, car relay regulators are also well suited for solar panels; if the panel is powerful, then you can use the circuit described above, and if the charging current does not exceed 5 Amps, then the relay regulator can be used for its intended purpose, that is, connect it to the battery, and minus solar panel through “Ш”, and when the voltage exceeds 14 volts, the relay-regulator will disconnect the panel from the battery, and when the voltage drops, connect it again.

At the request of users, I described the ballast regulator circuit in more detail with a new circuit diagram and new photos.