Chery Tiggo(T11). Guide - part 5

20 Security systems

Normal control: Glass movement
occurs as long as you keep pressing or
pull up the switch button.

Window down: Press switch
tel.

Window lift: Pull the switch
up.

Automatic window lowering function
la (for some versions
car)

Automatic lowering function
count have drives of all electric
window lifters. In order to stack
lo dropped automatically, press
and hold the switch for
one second, then release. For
glass stops in the intermediate position
Press the switch again.

Window lifting function using the button
ki on the remote control
(for some versions of the car -
car)

In order to use this
function, press the LOCK button on
remote control up to
until they are completely raised
you glass all the doors.

If the power windows
do not work properly, please contact
contact an official service station
local Chery dealer to check them.

Electrical
window lifters

Electric drive switches
window lifters

Driver's door switch panel

1 – Electrical switch
Driver's door window regulator
2 – Electrical switch
rear left door window regulator
3 – Electrical switch
rear right door window regulator
4 – Electrical switch
front passenger door window regulator
5 – Lock button
electric windows
6 – Button central lock

Use the switches to
closing or closing windows is only possible
with the ignition on.

Security systems 21

Power windows

Drive lock button
window lifters

If you press the drive lock button,
yes power windows on the driver's door,
then the passenger door windows
will not work. But at the same time everyone
The window lifter can be operated manually
switches on the driver's door. For from-
To enable this function, press again
window drive lock button
emnikov. It is recommended to use
this function if in the back seat
there are small children.

Electric windows can
work only when the ignition is on
and remain active for 60 seconds
after turning the ignition switch to position
setting ACC or OFF. But they can't be controlled
if any front door is open.

Each passenger door has
individual electrical switch
technical window regulator of this door.

There are switches on the driver's door
chattels for controlling electric
power windows on all doors.

22 Security systems

Power windows

Do not leave anyone in the car

le without supervision, especially ma-
lazy children if the key is left
in the ignition switch. Otherwise
case they can take advantage
electrical switches
power windows and get traction
I want injury or death. Cro-
Moreover, they can take advantage
governing bodies, which can
lead to a serious accident.

ATTENTION!

Be careful when lifting
glass so that it does not jam the location
hands in the opening or strangers
items!

DANGER!

Before closing the windows, make sure

be sure that there are no hands in their openings
or other parts of the body passages
ditch

Do not allow children to use

with electric windows
emnikami. Otherwise
they can get severe injuries
mu or die.

When leaving the car, do not

leave the key in the ignition -
nia.

For motorists, the comfort system is of particular importance. Isn’t it convenient when all the doors and lids of your car are locked and unlocked? fuel tank, trunk door with one press of a button on the key? This mechanism is related to auxiliary systems and is called central locking car.

The central locking functions can be controlled centrally or decentralized. What does this mean?

• Centralized - a single electronic control unit for all doors.
• Decentralized - in addition to a single control unit, there are also blocks: one for each door.

Let's consider the central locking device as a comfort system and the principle of its operation.

The entire system is controlled remotely from a control panel. The remote control is a radio transmitter located in the ignition key handle. From it the signal is sent to the antenna central device management. The central locking functions operate remotely at a distance of up to 10 meters.

The input sensors in the lock mechanism are microswitches and door limit switches. To fix the current position, microswitches are used in the car door design. To transmit a signal to the control unit and fix its current position there, a limit switch is used.

The front doors of the car are equipped with a cam mechanism and microswitches that fix the position of the lock. Moreover, the surface of these cams has a special profile. The “Lock” signal generates one of the two microswitches, the other generates the “Unlock” signal.

Two more microswitches generate a signal from the central locking device about the current state. When triggered, they will transmit “Unlocked” or “Locked”.

The lock drive has a lever mechanism. To fix its position and determine the current position of the door, another microswitch operates. If the door is opened, the switch contacts close. In this position, the vehicle's central locking mechanism cannot be activated.

From all switches, signals are sent to the electronic control unit. Which processes them and sends them to the central unit. The processed signal is then redirected to the control units on the front doors, to the actuators of the rear door locks, the fuel tank lid lock or the trunk door. In other words, door control units receive a signal that activates door locking actuators and other locks.

The actuator is the same actuator, the door lock. It is combined with a gearbox and is an electric motor direct current. The gearbox, rotating the electric motor, gives the mechanism a reciprocating motion - this is how the lock cylinder works.

In addition to the electric drive, there are pneumatic designs of actuators. For example, famous German factories and companies used pneumatics in their cars. Nowadays, pneumatic drives are almost never found.

Video about car central locking systems and their operating principle:

By locking the front door with a key, you activate the function of the microswitch responsible for locking. This happens as follows: from the switch, a signal is sent to the unit that controls the door, then it goes to the central control unit, which controls all door units, electric motors of the rear door actuators, tank lid and trunk. All actuators are started and the car doors are locked. To prevent the electric drive from triggering again, a signal from a microswitch is generated in the central locking device. You can unlock the door in a similar way - by turning the key in the lock.

To lock the doors of your car at a distance (remotely), there is a button on the ignition key or a separate key fob with buttons. When pressed, a signal is sent to the receiving antenna in the central control unit. There the “message” is processed and the command goes from the center to the peripheral units (on the doors, the lock of the fuel tank lid and the trunk). The actuators, which are activated by the button on the ignition key, ensure that all doors in the car are locked. As well as locking the doors, the button also activates the alarm remotely. Additional comfort will be remote control car windows. It will cost more, but it turns out to be 3 in one: door locking, connection burglar alarm and automatic raising of lowered windows.

It is worth noting that in the event of a traffic accident, all doors will automatically unlock. This occurs by transmitting a signal from the control unit passive safety to the central control unit. And a command is sent from the center to activate the actuators, and all doors open.

Video about the reasons why the central locking does not work:

Electrical circuits for central locking

Video about installing central locking on Daewoo Sens:

Video about installing the system on a VAZ 2107:

(Edited by Dmitry.O.) This material contains information regarding the standard alarm key fob and replacing the battery in it. The average battery life is 2-3 years.
Due to the existence of various options for disassembling the key fob, I provide a description of the simplest one. Links to authors (materials and photos) at the end.

Battery type: CR 2032.

Replacement procedure.

1. Buy a new, good battery.
2. Open the key fob body. To do this, carefully pry off the top cover of the keychain with a sharp knife or scalpel. At the end of the keychain, where the key ring is attached, there is a small recess (“flat”) where it is convenient to insert a knife.
3. To make it clearer, here is a photo from Beard 517 rus

On the left photo is the beginning, on the right is the result.
There is an even simpler (but also dangerous!) recipe from UVO_Ujin The simplest thing is to take the ring of the keychain and turn it to the crease, the keychain will open.
The battery is attached (pressed) by two “antennae” (shown by arrows), which can be slightly pressed before installing a new one, and pressed with a lid. Before closing the key fob, be sure to replace the ring. If you removed the board from the case with a silicone seal, then after installing it in the case from the back side, we check that the “titty” fits into the hole. We close the lid by shifting it from the ring to the Cherry emblem so as not to jam the sides of the silicone seal.

In most cases, with quick and careful replacement everything works.
Here's another from the Chinese site: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=6121730050

Possible problems.

“I used one key, the battery died. I replaced the battery and there was a problem. When you press the buttons to open or close the car, the light on the remote control lights up, but the car does not react. The second key works fine."

There are several ways to solve the problem:
1. Contact the service station.
2. A. change the battery

B. insert the key into the ignition c. turn the key so that all the lights on the panel come on, but don’t start! In this mode, press the door close button and wait about 0.5-1 minutes without releasing it. d. after 0.5-1 minutes the doors are activated to close, the immobilizer is programmed.

3. SAMlex: the battery was dead... I couldn’t change it for a couple of months... when I bought a new battery, it turned out that the central locking system did not respond to button presses. I tried to re-register the key using the indicated methods

T11-SB wrote: Yes, in the very key I changed it. how to program: 1. replaced the battery 2. inserted the key into the ignition 3. turned the key when all the lights on the panel light up (check, oil, battery) and a squeak indicates that the seat belt is not fastened. 4. but we don’t start! 5. in this mode, press the door close button for about 0.5-1 minutes without releasing it 6. after 0.5-1 minutes the doors are activated to close, the immobilizer is programmed in the service, they charge 500 rubles for this. and the battery costs 10 rubles. and a couple of minutes of work)))

DID NOT WORK

Alcher wrote:
While holding the closing button on the key fob, insert it into the ignition switch and slowly turn it smoothly to the first and second positions, without releasing the key fob button and also slowly back, remove it from the ignition switch and everything should work

DID NOT WORK

after that, I did the following: pressed the central locking button and smoothly turned on the ignition, with the ignition on, pressed the opening and closing buttons several times, turned off the ignition, pulled the key out of the ignition
- EARNED!!!

Awesome: The second method worked for me. IMHO the 3rd is a variation on the theme of the second, and what helped in the third was not pressing the buttons, but a longer time of dancing))))

Z.Y. my history -
After washing the car stopped responding to the key fob. It opened and closed with a key. The car is 3.5 years old, I use one key fob, the second one is completely new, with a sticker from the interior with the latest VIN numbers and with burrs on the plastic - I want to give it to the new owner after the sale)))))
At first I decided that the sink was to blame - maybe something had been poured in there, I thought it would dry out and fix it on its own. A week later it was not fixed. I read the forum about this. I decided that it was time to change the battery - the battery life is 3.5 years. I opened the key easily and naturally with the garage key, using pictures from the wiki. By the way, my diode was burning and with old battery and before the breakdown, there was no decrease in the range of action, so maybe it’s not the battery, but the key fob just quit. I decided to link - The first method is posted on the wiki - it didn’t help me. IMHO it’s some kind of garbage, not a method - it says that the close button must be held for 0.5-1 minute, but both of my key fobs stop working exactly after 15 seconds with the button held down, the diode stops blinking - check if anyone has the same thing.

But there were still chances for success, because... I noticed that if you press a button on the “non-working” key fob, and then press the same button on the working one and hold both, the car does not respond. If the button on the “not working” button is released, the machine closes immediately, i.e. The “non-working” key fob works and emits a signal, and it either jams the working signal, or the signaling system begins to ignore the signal that did not arrive first. I propose this method for diagnosing key fobs that do not seem to work at first glance.

As a result, the 2nd method helped, but to find it I had to read this topic for a couple of days. The whole process took about 7 seconds. I inserted it - pressed the closing button - turned it slowly until the ignition turned on - waited a couple of seconds - turned it back.

Dmitry.O.:
For those who want to get acquainted with the problem in more detail, I provide links to the Ukrainian forum (thanks to gsm and nudashop for their help in preparation.) http://www.ecu.ru/diagnostics/full/im/?PHPSESSID=32cde7298e2ba388d692212a91bcec84#text

The standard central locking does not open

You open the driver's door of the car with the key, but the other doors do not open, although according to the logic of the central locking they should open.
The simplest and most common reason may simply be a blown fuse. When it burns out, the electrical circuit of the lock stops working, although you can easily open or close the doors mechanically (with a key).

I don’t know about others, but in Chinese cars Assembling Derways, the contact chip could easily fly off the driver's lock. Typically this chip has five contacts. To check this possibility and put the chip in place, you will have to unpanel the door. This is done quite simply, both on Solano and Geely MK or Cross. A screw near the inside handle to open the door and a screw inside the handle to close it. The door panel itself is held on by plastic clips.

In addition to the chip, the microswitch in the electric drive of the driver's door lock may fail. Its function is to close the circuit when the key is turned and open or close the remaining doors. If you have a standard central locking remote control and the doors open with it but not with the key, then the reason is in the driver's door lock.

If the doors do not work when using the remote control (buttons on the key), then either the fuse is at fault, or the BCM unit does not receive or transmit a signal. In the smiley, this block is located under the steering column; you need to unscrew two screws and fold back the plastic cover. On Solano and Lifan x60 it is fixed under the heater control panel. On Geely Mk above the fuse box in the passenger compartment (on the right). On the Emgrande it is also under the steering column to the right of the driver’s feet.

Also, one should not exclude the cause of contact rubbing in the door harnesses. This is still rare, since the cars are all relatively new.

Electric locks do not open when controlled from an alarm system

If there is no standard remote control on the key, but there is a third-party alarm and it does not open the doors, then the first thing you need to do is also check the fuses. And not only the car itself, but also the alarm system. To do this you need to know. Where is the central car alarm unit located? Typically, blue and green wires, or blue and green with a white stripe, are used to control the central locking. Fuses are mounted using a hinged method directly on the wires.

Of course, the signaling itself could also fail. Listen when you press the remote control buttons - whether there are characteristic clicks in the alarm unit electromagnetic relays? If not, then check why. Maybe the battery is dead or the remotes have lost synchronization with the unit. Try reprogramming the remotes according to the instructions for the alarm. If there are clicks, then either the fuses or the wiring are to blame.

By the way, in winter time The load current consumed by the central locking increases due to weather conditions. As a result, fuses may blow out more frequently.

There are many reasons why a car's central locking system may fail or stop working stably. Sometimes the weather is to blame for malfunctions, namely too high humidity, excessive low temperatures and similar climate features. But sometimes problems arise due to incorrect installation of the lock itself, incorrect adjustment, as well as normal wear and tear due to long-term use.

1. Localization of central locking faults

Experts conditionally divide all problems that may arise with the central locking into several groups:

1) Complete or partial failure;

2) The lock works, but with malfunctions due to electrical or mechanical defects, or due to damage.

If the central locking of your car is acting up, then try to determine which category the defect belongs to. Repairs should begin not with disassembling any parts, but with diagnosing the equipment, which will significantly reduce the time for repairs, and sometimes the financial costs of this event.

The operation of the central locking should not depend on the operation of the engine, or whether the ignition is turned off or on. The most important thing is that the on-board network works, that is, the power terminals must be connected to the battery.

The entire system is formed by switches connecting wires and drives, on which the type of central locking will depend. The central lock can be electric, and its drive will also be electric, that is, presented in the form of solenoids or mechanisms with a motor. If the central lock is pneumatic, that is, vacuum, then its drive will be vacuum, and the drive will be formed from a control board, a compressor and pipes. Often, drives are called activators or actuators. The control drive is mounted in the door on the driver's side, and sometimes on the passenger's side. If this drive is triggered, an electrical signal is sent through special wires that will open or close the remaining doors.

If your car has an alarm, then repairs should begin with testing it. If, when using a portable alarm remote control, the central locking does not respond, then you need to check the operation of the lock from the button and key, which are responsible for opening and closing the door on the driver’s side. If, during manual control, the lock is triggered, then the problem lies in malfunctions of the control and electrical circuits of the alarm itself. First of all, you need to check the battery that is in remote control. She may be discharged.

2. If the lock does not work at all or partially

If, after manually checking the operation of the central lock, it still does not work, then you need to determine what the problem is, that is, specify the nature of the defect. If the vacuum central locking fails completely, you will not hear the compressor running. In the case of an electric central lock, you will hear faint clicks that the relay will make, and the buttons for self-opening will not work on all doors. If this is the case, then you need to check and, if necessary, install a new fuse for the central locking circuits. You may need to change a few fuses, depending on electrical circuit cars.

There is a possibility that this will be enough to normalize the work, and the repair will end there. If at the moment when the central locking is activated, one of the fuses blows, then this indicates that somewhere in the circuit that this fuse protects there is something wrong. short circuit. In this case, you need to look for the reason why the short circuit occurs. If all the fuses are in order, but the central lock cannot be opened manually, then the reasons may be the following:

1) The supply wires could break, or due to oxidation the contacts are poorly connected to the terminals, so there is no voltage at the input of the driver’s door activator, that is, the control signal cannot be transmitted by the drive to the other doors. There is simply nothing to transmit the signal with;

2) The limit switch of the driver's door activator is broken, or the wires that extend from the control terminals are broken, or the contact at the terminals is too poor, that is, there is no control signal.

Repair work must begin by checking the presence or absence of power and control signals of the wire at the moment of activation of the central locking, that is, you need to check whether there is voltage at the corresponding terminals. Then you will need to check the wires for quality and integrity. At the very end you need to check the limit switch, which will need to be repaired or even replaced if necessary. The switch in the case of electric central locks is always located inside the drive.

The central lock may not work if there is a breakdown in electronic circuit car alarm, and in the case of a vacuum central lock, the compressor board may also be broken. They need to be checked and repaired at the stage of completing diagnostic work. If the central locking still responds, then this is a case of a partial defect, that is, you can hear the compressor of the vacuum central locking working, or you can hear the relay clicks of the electric lock.

Door buttons for manual opening may work partially or not on every door. They can also quickly switch from the “closed” to the “open” position and vice versa. Such defects can occur due to broken fixation of the fasteners of the rod, which goes from the drive to the locking mechanism. This can happen in the doors both on the driver’s side in case of poor operation of all activators, and in other doors if the opening and closing process in them is disrupted.

3. Repairing partial failures of the vacuum central locking

Often, such breakdowns of the central locking are accompanied by an atypically long operation of the compressor (15 - 20 s, or even more):

1) Until the pump stops working, the car doors open and close with a central lock;

2) All the doors either opened or closed, or some lock did not work, and the compressor hums until it is turned off by the protection.

In the first case, a breakdown may occur due to too much condensation or due to breakdowns associated with the contacts of the activator switch. That is, voltage goes from the drive along both control wires to the pump board, there is a “+” that goes to both closing and opening, which is why the compressor alternately pumps out and pumps air. In this case, you will need to check the switch, and if necessary, replace or repair it. There may be several reasons for the breakdown in the second case:

1) The vacuum line tubes are leaking;

2) The signal to open or close the lock does not reach the compressor control board from the limit switch of the activator of one or more doors. The pump continues to work;

3) Signals about opening or closing locks are not received by the compressor, despite the fact that they reach it.

In the first case You must first check the line to the door where the drive does not work. You can find the area where there is damage by the characteristic hissing of air. Pipes that are damaged must be replaced. If the hoses are intact, the problem lies in the leakage of one of the drives. Often, the membrane on one of them is damaged, or the wire itself breaks. If you could not find the required membranes or actuator, you will have to buy the door lock itself.

If the problem falls under second case, then repair work must begin with diagnosing the electrical circuits going from the door actuators to the control board, checking for the presence of voltage on the corresponding wire. To do this, you can simply compare the state of all circuits from all drives. Most likely, the incorrect signal comes from a single wire, and the voltage on the bundle of wires that contains this “broken” one will not be the same as on the conductors from other bundles. Then you will need to find the break in the circuit and fix it. Often, damage occurs in the area of ​​door corrugations. In case of integrity of the wires, the cause of the malfunction must be sought in the limit switch, which will have to be either repaired or replaced.

In the third case you will need to disassemble the compressor unit and clean the terminal contacts of the pneumatic alarm sensor for opening and closing. Most likely, the terminals have oxidized. If after such repairs the lock still does not work, then you should check the control board circuit. It will need to be repaired.

4. Repair of electric central locking

Central locks with solenoids domestic production a few years after the start of use, they begin to act up due to temperature fluctuations, and they are especially badly affected by cold weather along with high humidity, which is typical for autumn and spring. First, the solenoids jam, and then they may completely refuse to open and close the locks. Often, this situation is typical for cars whose central locking was installed at the factory. It would be better to replace them with drives with a motor, but you can still try to carry out repair work. If the activator of one or more doors does not operate at all or only partially operates, this indicates that:

1) There has been a break or broken contact in the power circuit running from the activator switch from the driver’s door to the power relay (directly or through the control board) and then to the inoperative drive;

2) The relay has failed;

3) The control board is broken;

4) The wires are broken or the contact on the motor terminals or solenoids inside the activator is broken;

5) The activator gears with the motor or its moving parts are worn out;

6) The motor winding or solenoid coil has burned out.

You need to start repairs by checking the voltage supply to the drive that does not work. Voltage should go to one wire at the moment the closing function is activated. At the moment of opening, the voltage on this wire should disappear, and on the other, on the contrary, it should appear. Then, based on the diagnostic results, it will be necessary to check either the activator itself and repair/change it, or the circuit that goes from it, in “pieces”, then this is the area before the relay along with the control board, then the relay itself and the wires after it . Damaged areas will need to be repaired. Most often, in the central locking system of a car, the wires in the corrugation between the body and the door break.