How to make a starting device for a car with your own hands? Tips and tricks. Starter charger DIY jumper charger 12V

Shown in Fig. Starting devices 1 and 2 work effectively when connected in parallel to the battery and provide a current of at least 100 A at a voltage of 12 - 14 V. In this case, the rated power of the T1 network transformer used is 800 W.

To manufacture a network transformer, it is convenient to use toroidal iron from any LATR - this results in minimal dimensions and weight of the device. The perimeter of the iron cross-section can be from 230 to 280 mm (it differs for different types of autotransformers). As is known, the rated operating power of a transformer depends on the cross-sectional area of ​​the magnetic core (iron) at the location of the windings.

You need to carefully disassemble the body of the laboratory autotransformer, remove the contact motor, and wind the secondary winding with a thick wire in rubber insulation, approximately 18 hours - 25 turns (depending on the type of LATR), with a wire with a cross-section of at least 7 mm^2 (can be multi-core).

Then, from this winding, supply current to the car through a single-wave rectifier on a power diode type D161-250, observing the polarity.

Rice. 1. Starting device (option 1).

Since the second version of the starting device involves rewinding the primary winding, before winding the windings it is necessary to round off the sharp edges on the edges of the magnetic circuit with a file, and then wrap it with varnished cloth or fiberglass.

The primary winding of the transformer contains approximately 260 - 290 turns of PEV-2 wire with a diameter of 1.5 - 2.0 mm (the wire can be of any type with varnish insulation). The winding is distributed evenly in three layers, with interlayer insulation.

After completing the primary winding, the transformer must be connected to the network and the no-load current must be measured. It should be 200 - 380 mA. In this case, there will be optimal conditions for transforming power into the secondary circuit.

If the current is less, part of the turns must be rewinded; if more, it must be rewinded until the specified value is obtained.

The relationship between inductive reactance (and therefore the current in the primary winding) and the number of turns is quadratic - even a slight change in the number of turns will lead to a significant change in the primary winding current.

There should be no heating when the transformer is operating in idle mode. Heating of the winding indicates the presence of interturn short circuits or pressing and short-circuiting of part of the winding through the magnetic core. In this case, the winding will have to be done again.

The secondary winding is wound with insulated stranded copper wire with a cross-section of at least 6 mm^2 (for example, PVKV type with rubber insulation) and contains two windings of 15 - 18 turns. The secondary windings are wound simultaneously (with two wires), which makes it easy to obtain the same voltage in both windings, which should be in the range of 12 - 14 V at a nominal mains voltage of 220 V.

It is better to measure the voltage in the secondary winding using a load resistor with a resistance of 5 - 10 Ohms temporarily connected to terminals X1, X2.

Rice. 2. Starting device (option 2).

The connection of rectifier diodes allows the use of metal elements of the starter housing as a heat sink without dielectric spacers.

To connect the starting device parallel to the battery, the connecting wires must be insulated and stranded, with a cross-section of at least 10 mm^2.

Switch SA1 is type T3, or any other, the contacts of which are designed for a current of at least 5 A. It is convenient to use a PAR-10 automatic fuse as a switch.

Note. If you add another winding to any of the presented starting devices (25 - 30 turns of PEV-2 wire with a diameter of 2 mm), and use it to power one of the charger circuits below, then the “starters” will become starting-chargers.

As soon as the cold comes, the car owner is faced with some problems related to starting the car. So, the main load is borne by the battery and starter. And for such unpleasant situations, starting-chargers were invented.

You can buy it in an online store or where they sell auto parts. But usually such devices cost a lot of money and can cause significant damage to your wallet.

But these devices have a very limited output in startup mode. Because of this, the battery takes on the entire load, and receives little help from such a device.

But this miracle device can be made with your own hands. This does not require special knowledge of electronics, but some experience is still required.

Interesting! You will also need a diode bridge and a core from a transformer or the transformer itself. The power of the finished device will be at least 1.4 kilowatts. This is quite enough to start the weakest power source.

For convenience and ease of assembling the car device with your own hands, we recommend using a conditional drawing. The circuit diagram of the starting-charging device will clearly demonstrate what and how it works. It will greatly simplify assembly. Those with knowledge of electronics will be able to create the necessary drawing with their own hands.

• transformer;
• diode bridge;
• cooling device;
• voltmeter;
• electrolytic capacitor.

The break in the primary winding connection of a 220 volt transformer should be 15 amps. Since there is a very high voltage there, the fuse can protect against short circuits.

The diode bridge must be chosen between 10 and 50 amperes. It all depends on what kind of batteries will be used to start the device.

Any cooler (fan) from a personal computer is suitable for cooling. You also need to find a voltmeter, no matter what.

The electrolytic capacitor should be 16 volts, but more is possible. Its capacity can vary from 3000 to 10,000 microfarads. Important: the output current will be smoother if the capacitance of the capacitor is larger.

There are many instructions on the Internet for creating a starter-charger for a car using a computer power supply. But its power is too small, and its use will be extremely unreliable.

For our device, a transformer from microwave ovens is best suited. Probably every third person has an old, unnecessary microwave oven. But before assembling the ROM, the transformer needs to be remade with your own hands. But before alteration, be sure to check it for functionality. You can do this by connecting the terminals to the network yourself. If it starts to make a slight hum, then the device is working normally.

You should start assembling the charger yourself with the high-voltage winding. It needs to be cut down. A simple hacksaw for metal is perfect for these purposes. During sawing, the main thing is not to damage the primary winding.

After the high-voltage winding has been cut down, holes must be drilled in its place. They must be made with a thick drill. Through the holes formed, you need to pull out the remaining windings. You can knock them out with any blunt object.

After the internal cavities have been cleared of debris, it is necessary to create a secondary winding. Somewhere you need to make 16 turns and wind turn to turn. The voltage will directly depend on the cross-section of the wire. After this, you need to measure the output voltage. There should be 16 volts after the diode bridge.

I would like to clarify that it is easier to wind with a flexible wire and ideally use a single-core wire. Also use copper wires because they conduct current better and don't get hot like aluminum wires.

A former case from a personal computer power supply is suitable as a housing for the starter-charger. It will be necessary to unscrew the fan and install it in reverse so that it does not blow air out, but blows it in.

You need to insert a 15 amp fuse across one of the wires; you can use any from the car.

The transformer must be installed in the housing on a thick cardboard spacer. This is necessary so that during the occurrence of magnetic induction, the housing does not vibrate and does not create additional hum. Also put a thick pad on top. There will be no need to screw the transformer, because it is massive and when closed with a lid, it will press tightly.

Now you need to install the diode bridge. If the choice fell on a low-power one, then it can be installed inside. Cooling from a fan will be quite sufficient.

Important! If you use a power greater than 10 amperes, then it must be installed on a radiator. Otherwise, it may simply burn out.

The radiator for the diode bridge is suitable from a computer, which is used to cool the microprocessor. The cooler is not needed, it can be removed. It does not require any other cooling. However, I would like to say that it will not be possible to install it in the case, and the bridge will need to be outside the case.

Now all that remains is to install the cover. It can be installed using glue, but it is better to use silicone or sealant. The entire device for the car is ready.

So, a diagram and minimal knowledge will help you assemble a budget device for charging or starting a car with your own hands. Without connecting our starter-charger to the network, it can be used as a tester.

Winter, frost, the car won’t start, while we tried to start it, the battery is completely discharged, we are scratching our heads, thinking about how to solve the problem... Is this a familiar situation? I think those who live in the northern regions of our vast country have more than once encountered problems with their car in the cold season. And then such a case arises, we begin to think, it would be nice to have on hand a starting device designed specifically for such purposes.

Naturally, buying such an industrially produced device is not a cheap pleasure, so the purpose of this article is to provide you with information on how you can make a starting device with your own hands at minimal cost.

The starting device circuit that we want to offer you is simple but reliable, see Figure 1.

This device is designed to start the engine of a vehicle with a 12 volt on-board network. The main element of the circuit is a powerful step-down transformer. The bold lines in the diagram indicate the power circuits going from the starter to the battery terminals.

The device works as follows. After connecting the power wires to the battery terminals and turning on the mains, no voltage is supplied to the battery. We begin to start the engine, and if U of the battery drops below the operating threshold of the voltage control unit (this is below 10 volts), it will give a signal to open the thyristors, the battery will receive recharge from the starting device.

When the voltage at the terminals reaches above 10 volts, the starting device will disable the thyristors and recharge the battery will stop. As the author of this design says, this method avoids harming the car battery.

Transformer for starting device.
In order to estimate how much power a transformer is needed for a starting device, you need to take into account that at the moment the starter starts, it consumes a current of about 200 amperes, and when it spins up, it consumes 80-100 amperes (voltage 12 - 14 volts). Since the starting device is connected directly to the battery terminals, when the car starts, some of the electricity will be supplied by the battery itself, and some will come from the starting device. We multiply the current by the voltage (100 x 14), we get a power of 1400 watts. Although the author of the above diagram claims that a 500-watt transformer is enough to start a car with a 12-volt on-board network.

Just in case, let us recall the formula for the ratio of wire diameter to cross-sectional area, this is the diameter squared multiplied by 0.7854. That is, two wires with a diameter of 3 mm will give (3*3*0.7854*2) 14.1372 sq. mm.

It doesn’t make much sense to provide specific data on the transformer in this article, because first you need to at least have more or less suitable transformer hardware, and then, based on the actual dimensions, calculate the winding data specifically for it.

The remaining elements of the scheme.

Thyristors: with a full-wave circuit - for a current of 80A and above. For example: TS80, T15-80, T151-80, T242-80, T15-100, TS125, T161-125, etc. When implementing the second option using a bridge rectifier (see diagram above), the thyristors must be 2 times more powerful. For example: T15-160, T161-160, TS161-160, T160, T123-200, T200, T15-250, T16-250 and the like.

Diodes: for the bridge, choose ones that hold a current of about 100 amperes. For example: D141-100, 2D141-100, 2D151-125, V200 and the like. As a rule, the anode of such diodes is made in the form of a thick rope with a tip.
KD105 diodes can be replaced with KD209, D226, KD202, any with a current of at least 0.3 ampere will do.
The stabilization zener diode U should have about 8 volts, you can use 2S182, 2S482A, KS182, D808.

Transistors: KT3107 can be replaced with KT361 with a gain (h21e) greater than 100, KT816 can be replaced with KT814.

Resistors: in the circuit of the thyristor control electrode we install resistors with a power of 1 watt, the rest are not critical.

If you decide to make the power wires removable, ensure that the connection connector can withstand inrush currents. Alternatively, you can use connectors from a welding transformer or inverter.

The cross-section of the connecting wires coming from the transformer and thyristors to the terminals must be no less than the cross-section of the wire with which the secondary winding of the transformer is wound. It is advisable to install the wire connecting the starting device to a 220 volt network with a core cross-section of 2.5 square meters. mm.

In order for this starting device to work with cars whose on-board network has a voltage of 24 volts, the secondary winding of the step-down transformer must be designed for a voltage of 28...32 volts. The zener diode in the voltage control unit must also be replaced, i.e. D814A must be replaced with two D814V or D810 connected in series. Other zener diodes are also suitable, for example, KS510, 2S510A or 2S210A.

The simplest calculations show that in order for the starting device to work effectively when connected in parallel with the battery, it must provide a current of at least 100 A at a voltage of 10...14 V. In this case, the rated power of the T1 network transformer used (Fig. 1) must be at least 800 W. As is known, the rated operating power of a transformer depends on the cross-sectional area of ​​the magnetic core (iron) at the location of the windings.

The starting device circuit itself is quite simple, but requires the correct manufacture of a network transformer. It is convenient to use toroidal iron from any LATRA - this results in minimal dimensions and weight of the device. The perimeter of the iron cross-section can be from 230 to 280 mm (it differs for different types of autotransformers).

Before winding the windings, it is necessary to round off the sharp edges on the edges of the magnetic circuit with a file, after which we wrap it with varnished cloth or fiberglass.

The primary winding of the transformer contains approximately 260...290 turns of PEV-2 wire with a diameter of 1.5...2.0 mm (the wire can be of any type with varnish insulation). The winding is distributed evenly in three layers, with interlayer insulation. After completing the primary winding, the transformer must be connected to the network and the no-load current must be measured. It should be 200...380 mA. In this case, there will be optimal conditions for transforming power into the secondary circuit. If the current is less, part of the turns must be rewinded; if more, it must be rewinded until the specified value is obtained. It should be taken into account that the relationship between the inductive reactance (and therefore the current in the primary winding) and the number of turns is quadratic - even a slight change in the number of turns will lead to a significant change in the primary winding current.

There should be no heating when the transformer is operating in idle mode. Heating of the winding indicates the presence of interturn short circuits or pressing and short-circuiting of part of the winding through the magnetic core. In this case, the winding will have to be done again.

The secondary winding is wound with insulated stranded copper wire with a cross-section of at least 6 square meters. mm (for example, PVKV type with rubber insulation) and contains two windings of 15 ... 18 turns. The secondary windings are wound simultaneously (with two wires), which makes it easy to obtain their symmetry - the same voltage in both windings, which should be in the range of 12...13.8 V at a rated mains voltage of 220 V. It is better to measure the voltage in the secondary winding temporarily connected to terminals X2, XZ load resistor with a resistance of 5...10 Ohms.

The connection of rectifier diodes shown in the diagram allows the use of metal elements of the starter housing not only for fastening the diodes, but also as a heat sink without dielectric spacers (the “plus” of the diode is connected to the fastening nut).

To connect the starting device parallel to the battery, the connecting wires must be insulated and multi-core (preferably copper), with a cross-section of at least 10 square meters. mm (not to be confused with diameter). At the ends of the wire, after tinning, connecting lugs are soldered.

It is familiar to many of our compatriots, especially often encountered by those who regularly operate their cars in winter, during frosty periods. If the engine refuses to start, there are several ways to solve the problem, but one of the most effective options is to use a starting device (PU). We will tell you below how to properly make a starting device for a car with your own hands and what its operating principle is.

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Description of the starting device

What is this engine starting system, how does the module work and what is its purpose? Let's look briefly at these questions.

Purpose and functions

The purpose of the car charging unit is to ensure better engine starting. Such a need may arise in different cases, but as practice shows, our compatriots usually face such a problem precisely in cold weather. In addition, most modern charging modules also allow you to charge mobile gadgets - tablets, smartphones and other devices. They even have additional ports for this purpose.

Design and principle of operation

There are several types of charging modules:

1. Pulse blocks, The operating principle of which is based on pulse voltage conversion. In such a module, the voltage first increases under the influence of the current frequency, after which it decreases and is converted. Such devices are usually characterized by low power and, as a rule, are used to recharge a discharged battery. But if the battery charge is very low, and it is frosty outside, then in this case, recharging the battery may take quite a long time.
   The main advantages of such blocks include low price, light weight, and compact size. As for the disadvantages, this is the low power of the module, as well as the difficulty of its repair, especially since, as practice shows, they can often fail due to unstable voltage.
2. Transformer blocks— in this case, the main element of the device is a transformer, which is used to convert current into voltage. Such charging modules allow you to increase the charge of any battery, regardless of its discharge, even if it is almost full. In addition, devices of this type are immune to voltage surges; they can operate in any condition. The main advantages include the power of the modules and their reliability, as well as their unpretentiousness in terms of operation. As for the disadvantages, it is high cost, large size and weight.
3. Boosters are another type of block. A booster is a portable battery that operates on the principle of a portable unit - first, the booster charges the battery, and the power unit is started from the battery. Boosters can be household or professional; they differ in volume and size. In household boosters, the capacity is quite low, but it is usually enough to start one engine.
   Professional devices are full-fledged chargers that can start several cars, and the on-board network in such cars can be either 12-volt or 24-volt. The advantage of boosters is their compactness and autonomy, however, due to their size, they can only be installed on flat surface.
4. Capacitor modules. In this case, the procedure for starting the motor is carried out according to a rather complex principle; the circuitry of such devices is based on powerful capacitor devices. First of all, they are charged, after which the capacitors transfer the charge to start the motor. Capacitors charge quite quickly and just as quickly they release their charge to start the internal combustion engine. As a result of the fact that the cost of such modules is quite high, they are not so popular. Moreover, in practice, their frequent use can lead to accelerated wear of the battery (the author of the video is the carpow carpow channel).

Selection options

The starting device is selected based on the voltage of the battery used in the car. Passenger cars usually use 12-volt batteries, while tractors usually use 24-volt batteries. If you are in doubt about the type of battery you have, then you need to pay attention to the labeling of the device - it should indicate the numbers 12 or 24. To ensure normal starting of the power unit, you can purchase a regular household battery, but if you drive a tractor, then for such an internal combustion engine you need to buy a device with a high current.

However, the main parameter you need to pay attention to is the starting current. The current may be different, it all depends on the specific battery, so in any case you will need to study the markings. It should also be taken into account that the starting current may vary, especially if the battery is discharged and it is cold outside.

If you have decided on the starting current, then pay attention to the volume of the launcher. The choice of volume depends on the conditions under which the PU will be used. For example, for a passenger vehicle, the best option would be to choose a more compact device, the battery reserve of which will be low. As for the same tractors or SUVs, in this case it is better to give preference to PU with a large margin. Moreover, the higher this indicator is, the better (the author of the video is the Made in a Garage channel).

DIY instructions

If you decide to build a control panel for your car, then at a minimum you should have some experience in electrical engineering. Of course, you can save a significant amount by assembling the device yourself, but you will still need to spend money on its constituent elements.

Let's briefly consider the process of making PU at home:

1. First, you will need a transformer device; its minimum power setting should be 500 watts.
2. In the primary winding, the cable cross-section must be at least one and a half mm2; as for the secondary winding, it should be removed.
3. Having removed the secondary winding, a new one is installed, and you will have to wind the wire around it yourself. The number of turns on the winding can vary - in this case the choice is made in a practical way. For example, you will wind ten turns of wire with any cross-section, after which you will need to connect a transformer device and measure the voltage. The result obtained is ultimately divided by ten - this way you can calculate the voltage on one turn. Then 12 volts should be divided by the number obtained as a result of the measurement - this will give you the number of turns of one arm.
4. After the calculation manipulations have been carried out, the secondary winding should be removed and another one should be installed in its place, and the winding should be wound with a wire with a cross-section of 10 mm2.
5. The next step will be connecting the diode elements. Alternatively, you can use diodes removed from welding equipment. Ultimately, the idle voltage level should be no more than 12 volts. If, as a result, this indicator is higher or lower, then it will be necessary to either rewind or rewind a certain number of turns.
6. When the voltage is normal, you can begin the final stage of completing the assembly. If we take into account the fact that the current parameter at the output of the device will vary around 100 amperes, wires from the same welding equipment can be used as output cables.

Price issue

Video “How to make a pre-heater with your own hands?”

Detailed and visual instructions on how to build a pre-heater with your own hands in a garage are presented in the video below (the author of the video is Sergey Kalinov).