Toilet for a summer residence without odor and pumping: recommendations and step-by-step instructions. A toilet in a country house or how to find a way out when there is none Toilets for the home

Many private houses built in Soviet times, did not provide for the installation of a warm toilet, but only had a separate facility, which was extremely inconvenient to get to in the cold or rain. Therefore, it is necessary to resolve this situation and install a warm toilet with sewerage in a village house on your own.

Choosing a place for the toilet

In order to put a minimum of effort into equipping a toilet, you need to find a ready-made room that meets construction standards. This should be a small room with an area of ​​at least 3 m2 to accommodate the toilet and all the necessary accessories. The ideal option would be to place it near one of the external walls, which will ensure a minimum distance to the cesspool or local sewerage system. If such a room is located inside the house and does not border on an external wall, then connecting the toilet to the sewer will be somewhat more complicated due to the laying of pipes in the basement.

Wooden toilet and shower with sewage system

Another option would be to equip a toilet inside the living space with the installation of partitions and the supply of all communications. The advantage in this case will be the creation of sufficient space and its location in any convenient location. However, this will result in the loss of living space and the implementation of the project will be very difficult.

The main requirements that need to be followed when choosing a place for a toilet are as follows:

1. Minimum distance to the point of sewage discharge or to the local sewer system.
2. The room should not be located near eating or sleeping areas.
3. It will be possible to freely introduce cold water pipes into the toilet, install sewerage and install ventilation.

If sewerage and water supply are introduced into the house, then you can immediately place a bathroom and a bathtub in one room near the entry point. This will save on installation work and building materials.

Basic nuances of connecting to the sewer system

The installation of sewerage to the toilet is qualitatively divided into two stages: external and internal. External consists of laying sewer pipes to local, centralized or storage systems. Internal involves the installation of pipes and plumbing.

External pipe laying must be carried out taking into account the following factors:

1. Soil freezing depth. It has a strong influence on the operation of the sewerage system and therefore must be strictly taken into account. For middle zone In Russia it is from 0.8 m. Additionally, protection against more severe frosts should be provided and the pipes should be insulated.
2. The distance to local treatment facilities should, on the one hand, be minimal, and on the other hand, comply with sanitary and construction standards. The minimum distance is 15 m, and the pipe slope per linear meter is at least 30.
3. The choice of pipe type depends on the heaving and density of the soil. In areas of high soil mobility it is necessary to use cast iron pipes, and in other cases plastic ones are recommended.

When creating internal communications, the main problem will be choosing how to install the toilet. This is due to the fact that it will require a rigid and durable base, which is absent in most village houses, and installation on wooden floors is impractical for the reason that heated floors cannot be laid on them. Therefore, it will most likely be necessary to pour concrete floors with all the associated costs and labor costs.

Pouring toilet floors

Before carrying out installation work, the room must be completely emptied and cleaned of dirt. This will allow you to accurately assess the condition of the walls and ceilings. If there are any defects, they will need to be eliminated.

If there are wooden floors, they will need to be dismantled. Then, along the perimeter of the room, it is necessary to dig a pit to a depth of 40-50 cm, leveling the bottom and carefully tamping it. It is important not to damage the main foundation. After this, you need to cover the bottom with a layer of sand 30 cm thick and compact it thoroughly or spill it with plenty of water. A layer of crushed stone with a grain size of up to 10 mm is poured over the sand, leveled and compacted.

The next step is to lead the sewer pipe outside the building through the foundation. This will require the use of a diamond drilling rig to prevent the foundation from losing its load-bearing capacity due to cracking or partial failure. The hole diameter must be at least 100 mm. The depth of the exit of the outer part of the pipe from the outside must be below the freezing level. Inside the room, the height of the pipe should be 15-20 cm above the floor level. To prevent foreign objects from getting inside the pipe, it must be closed on both sides with a tight plug.

Then, overlapping waterproofing material is laid at the bottom of the trench, carefully sealing the joints. After this, a reinforcing mesh with a rod diameter of 4-6 mm and a cell size of more than 5x5 cm is laid. A concrete solution of grade M300 is poured on top of it. To remove air bubbles, you will need to thoroughly stir it. The surface must be smoothed thoroughly. Before the solution hardens, measure the places for attaching the toilet and insert vertically steel pins with threads cut on top into them.

After this, an electric underfloor heating system is installed on the prepared surface, taking into account all the manufacturer’s recommendations. If the house has a heating water circuit, then you can connect instead electrical system water, but at the same time heating of the toilet will be noticeably slower, and the height of the floors due to the laying of pipes will be higher by about 5-10 cm, depending on the installation technology and the diameter of the pipes used.

A screed is made on top of the heated floors and tiles are laid.

Insulation of walls and ceilings

Walls prepared for repairs must be marked for installation of sheathing for plasterboard sheets. The distance between the nearest slats is selected so that it ranges from 1 to 1.5 m and the sheathing is located evenly along the walls. It is advisable to use special metal profile slats. They are placed in a strictly vertical position close to the wall and secured with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15-20 cm. Then the entire surface of the walls is laid with an overlapping waterproofing film at intervals of 15 cm and glued with a special adhesive tape or tape. Mineral wool is placed tightly inside the spaces between the batten slats. A vapor barrier layer is laid on top of the mineral wool layer in the same way as a waterproofing layer. If the walls are thin, then you need to additionally lay soundproofing material. Then install sheets of plasterboard with a thickness of at least 12 mm end-to-end, coating the joints with putty and leveling the surface. The ceiling is insulated in the same way, only thinner sheets of plasterboard with a thickness of up to 8 mm are used.

After this, the inner surface of the walls and ceiling is plastered and then tiled or finished with waterproof plaster.

Toilet installation

The installation of a toilet in a wooden house is carried out directly on steel pins pre-installed in the floor at the time the concrete floor is poured. To do this, it is necessary to lay a dense cork or rubber gasket at the installation site to ensure tight contact of the heel of the toilet with the floor surface. Then take the toilet bowl, place it on top of the gasket and tighten the bolts. The main thing is to maintain the same pressure on the nuts to prevent distortion and damage to the heel. Therefore, the nuts must be tightened one at a time, tightening approximately half a turn. The moment when the toilet became completely stable and motionless indicates its correct installation. Then the drain tank is mounted on special fasteners on the surface of the bowl.

The toilet is connected to the sewer pipe using a corrugated flexible hose with rubber seals. The outer part of the connecting joints must be coated with silicone-based sealant. After this, the toilet tank can be connected to a pipe with cold water, which should be pulled from the nearest point.

Laying external sewer pipes

A toilet in a wooden house with a sewer system involves connecting the toilet to already installed internal communications and does not require external works. Otherwise you will need to do excavation and possibly install local sewage treatment plants or connect to centralized system.

The trench is dug in accordance with the layout of the external sewer system, which was thought out at the planning stage. Its depth should be at least 0.8 m, and the bottom should have a slope towards the wastewater drainage at an angle of 30 per linear meter.

A sand cushion 30 cm thick is laid at the bottom of the trench and carefully leveled and compacted. Then, from the pipe removed from the house, a sewer system is laid directly to a local or centralized sewage discharge point. For installation, it is advisable to install metal-plastic pipes with a diameter of more than 100 mm and, if possible, as long as possible in order to minimize the number of joints and reduce the likelihood of leaks.

When all pipe communications are connected, it is necessary to check the functionality of the toilet. To do this, open the water supply to the tank, watch the degree of its filling and, if necessary, immediately adjust. Turn on the underfloor heating system and set the required heating level. Then the water is drained from the tank and all pipe joints and connections to the toilet are inspected. If any deficiencies are found, they are immediately eliminated. External communications are examined similarly. If there are no leaks, insulation is installed on top of the external sewer pipes, and then the trench is buried.

A warm toilet and sewerage system in a village house is the dream of every summer resident. And this is quite understandable: if a person has ever run out in the rain into a wooden structure standing near a fence, then he will definitely appreciate the benefits of a bathroom located in the house itself.

In principle, arranging a toilet is not one of the most difficult tasks. Having studied specialized literature and developed a suitable project, it is quite possible to implement it yourself. Of course, you will have to work hard, but you can definitely do it in one season.

Circuit diagrams: 2 options

At one time, thinking about how to build a warm toilet in a private house, I analyzed several projects for such structures. By and large, they all boiled down to the implementation of one of two options:

From a comfort point of view, this is not the best solution.

1. We make a classic bathroom with a water supply, a toilet and the removal of wastewater through a pipeline into a storage tank - a cesspool or. A variation of this option is to connect the waste circuit to a centralized sewerage system, but in the private sector where my house was located, there was no such benefit of civilization.

1. We are setting up a separate room, in which we install a dry closet. In principle, for the functioning of such a system there is no need to lay a water supply: it is enough to install a small washbasin for carrying out hygienic procedures, and collect the waste water (there will be very little of it) in a container and pour it into a cesspool on the street.

By and large, the choice between these two options depends on the availability of a water supply system: if there is a water supply system, or we plan to have one, then the design includes a scheme with a toilet and a drain through a sewer pipe. But for a small country house, in which we do not spend much time, a dry closet would be a completely acceptable solution.

Since in my case the water supply was available, I chose a scheme with a septic tank. However, options with cesspool and a dry closet were also analyzed by me in sufficient detail, therefore in the descriptions I will pay attention to the features of their implementation.

Place for waste

cesspool

Before making a comfortable bathroom in a wooden house, we need to make sure that we have a place to remove waste water. There are two solutions here - one is simpler, the second is more convenient to use.

A simple solution is to install a cesspool - a reservoir in which wastewater accumulates until it is pumped out by a sewage treatment plant. It is worth making a cesspool if you use your country house relatively infrequently: the smaller the volume of wastewater, the less often you will have to pump it out, therefore, the lower the financial costs.

Making a cesspool is extremely simple:

1. We choose a place in a low area, at a distance of at least 5 m from the wall of the house and at least 12 - 15 m from water intake points (well or borehole).
2. We remove the fertile soil layer to a depth of approximately 0.5 m and an area of ​​​​about 3-5 m2. The removed soil can be used in the garden beds, or it can be returned to its place by covering the pit lid with turf.
3. We dig a pit up to 2.5 m deep and an area of ​​2-3 m2.
4. To avoid contamination of the soil and groundwater with fecal matter, we seal the bottom of the pit. I would use a 20 cm thick layer of clay laid on three layers of plastic film.

If finances allow, or you want to achieve maximum reliability, then about 10 cm of concrete can be poured on top of the clay.

1. The option with earthen walls is quite viable, but short-lived. To secure the structure, it is better to use a lathing made of tightly fitted boards (lasts up to 10 years). Well, if possible, make a box from old ceramic bricks: according to experts, such a pit will definitely last for 20-25 years.
2. From above, the structure is covered with either thick boards or concrete slabs. A hole must be made in the ceiling for a hatch through which pumping will be carried out.

Septic tank

The obvious disadvantage of a cesspool is its inevitable overflow. To avoid the need for frequent pumping, I installed a two-chamber septic tank on my country property.

The instructions for making a septic tank may differ depending on its configuration, but since I had the task of implementing the most economical option, I did this:

1. Initially, at a distance from the house and from the well with installed pump a pit was dug 2.5 m deep, 3 m long and 1.5 m wide. Since the volume of excavated soil was impressive, I had to involve two assistants in the work, otherwise the work would have been delayed.
2. Then two adjacent chambers were built from ceramic bricks inside the pit. In this case, the first chamber was folded “solidly”, and holes were made in the lower part of the second chamber in the masonry.

Under no circumstances should you use sand-lime brick, which cannot withstand prolonged contact with a liquid, especially one as aggressive as sewage. An alternative to ceramic bricks can be monolithic concrete chambers, concrete rings for sewer wells and even tires from heavy trucks.
The ideal option is to generally buy a plastic container for the septic tank, but here I was stopped by the rather high price.

1. The bottom of the first chamber - the settling tank - was covered with a 15 cm layer of clay, after which I concreted it for maximum tightness.
2. In the bottom of the second chamber - the filtration well - I used an old auger ice drill to make about a dozen holes 0.5 m deep to improve drainage. Coarse gravel was poured into the holes, and the same gravel was laid on the bottom in a layer of about half a meter.

1. An overflow tube was installed between the chambers at a height of approximately 1.7 m from the bottom.
2. In the sump, at a distance of 50 cm from the ground level, I made a hole for installing a drain pipe.
3. From above, the entire structure was covered with a concrete slab with holes for two hatches. Separately, it was necessary to drill a groove in the concrete to install a 1.5 m high pipe.

The advantage of this solution, despite its labor intensity, is the long battery life: the wastewater, entering the settling tank, is divided into fractions, while the clarified liquid is poured into the second chamber, where it is gradually filtered into the ground.

Since I add special bacterial cultures to the septic tank and do not use the country sewer system very often, I have to pump it out every three years. And to be honest, this is for preventive purposes - according to my estimates, the system can operate for another couple of years without compromising the quality of cleaning.

Pipe laying for home

Installing a sewer system in general and a toilet in particular in a private house involves transporting wastewater to a cesspool/septic tank/collector. To do this we need to lay an underground pipe:

1. From the house to the tank we dig a trench at least 70 cm deep. The deeper the pipe is located, the less risk that winter time its contents will freeze.
2. We make the bottom of the trench with a slope of about 2.5 - 3 cm per 1 m.
3. We place sand bedding under the pipes. The optimal thickness of the bedding is 10-15 cm.
4. We lay pipes (we use only products for external use) and carefully seal all joints.

In my case, the pipe ran in a straight line, but if you need to make a turn or lay a pipeline longer than 15 m, then it is mandatory to install at least one inspection well. I was convinced of the usefulness of such a structure when I had to help clear a sewer in a neighboring area: it is much easier to remove a blockage if there is access to the problem point of the pipe.

1. We insulate the pipes using mineral wool or fiberglass, then fill them with soil and compact it thoroughly.

1. We pass the pipe outlet into the hole that we left in the wall of the cesspool or septic tank.
2. At the entrance to the house, we insert the pipe into the hole in the base and connect it to the internal riser.

Toilet in a country house

Arrangement of the premises

When making a toilet in a wooden house with our own hands, we often encounter constant humidity in the chosen room. You can solve the problem if you approach it as responsibly as possible:

1. We select the room itself in such a way that it is located near the outer wall of the house, as close as possible to the cesspool. This way we will save on pipes, and we won’t have to run communications between rooms.
2. If a bathroom was not included in the design of a country house initially, at the first stage we make a partition, separating it from other rooms with a frame wall covered with plywood or OSB. To make the toilet really warm, we put thermal insulation material inside the frame.
3. We install a door that separates the bathroom with all its sounds and smells from other rooms. To ensure air flow, there must be a gap of at least 5 mm between the bottom edge of the door and the threshold.
4. We make holes in the walls and floor through which we bring water pipes and a sewer pipe into the room. We attach adapters/taps to the walls to connect the toilet and washbasin.

1. We either leave the floor wooden, covering it with several layers of waterproofing composition with an antiseptic, or cover it with ceramic tiles.

1. We also protect the walls from moisture by treating them with waterproofing or covering them with plastic panels. In the second case, additional insulation can be carried out by placing polystyrene foam, mineral wool or foil-coated polymer fabric under the sheathing frame.
2. We must make a ventilation hole under the ceiling. You can get by with a simple air vent, but I preferred to install a simple electric fan, and switched its power to a separate switch - this made forced ventilation of the bathroom much more convenient.

Option with toilet

As I noted above, it is best to make an ordinary toilet in a private house with a classic toilet and sink. Installing equipment in a room with connected communications is a fairly simple task:

1. First we fix the toilet. To do this, we fix a thick board impregnated with a moisture-proof compound to the floor (wooden or tiled) with anchors. We place the toilet base on the board and secure it with the included fasteners.
2. We connect the toilet flush to the outlet of the sewer pipe coming out of the floor or wall using a rubber cuff. To seal this unit we use plumbing silicone.
3. We install a tank on the base of the toilet, to which we attach a hose for supplying water from the water supply. Connect the other end of the hose to the tap at the end of the water pipe.

1. We hang the sink on the wall in the selected location. We connect the drain elbow of the sink to a pipe, which is then connected to the general sewer circuit.
2. We install a faucet either on the sink or on the wall above it. We screw hoses with hot (from the boiler) and cold water to the mixer outlets.

The entire system we have created will only work effectively if both the toilet and sink are located above the drain level. Otherwise, and also if you plan to use the sewer very actively, I would recommend additionally installing a sewer pump into the system, which will ensure forced removal of wastewater.

Option with dry toilet

It is also possible to make a comfortable toilet in the country without a cesspool and internal water supply. Naturally, a room will also have to be equipped for this, but direct waste disposal will be carried out using biological treatment systems.

Today, there are several types of dry toilets suitable for use in private homes:

Even if you limit yourself to the simplest models operating on peat, you can provide yourself with enough high level comfort. However, this system is unlikely to compare with a full-fledged toilet, so I would still advise considering the possibility of creating a full-fledged wastewater removal system - albeit based on a simple cesspool.

Budgeting references

When starting work, you need to draw up an estimate that takes into account all costs. Doing basic operations yourself allows you to significantly optimize your budget, but you will still have to buy materials. A table containing estimated prices will help you at this stage.

Using the information provided in it, you can predict at least the order of the amount you will need.

Naturally, only some expense items are taken into account here. To complete the project, you will need a lot more materials, including various solutions, sealants, fasteners, fittings, plumbing fittings, etc.

Conclusion

As practice shows, it is possible to make a warm toilet in a village house with your own hands. Of course, this is not a quick thing, and financial investments will require, but if you follow the tips I gave, and also carefully study the video in this article, then everything should work out.

In addition, questions that arise during the design process can be asked in the comments - I will answer you in the most detailed way.

Individual houses built in the Soviet Union, as a rule, do not have the usual amenities. At best, this is cold water and sewerage, intended only for the discharge of liquid waste. The toilet was not included in the list of essential goods, however, like many other things. Its installation itself is not a tricky matter, but in this case neither the toilet room nor the corresponding communications are provided for by the project. Therefore, making a toilet in a private house can be difficult, because you not only need to find a suitable place, but also install sewerage, ventilation and water there. Well, let's start with this.

Toilet space

The ideal option for a future toilet is a ready-made room, such as a small storage room. And it’s absolutely good if it is located in that part of the house that is closer to the drain well. If the free closet is located on the other side, this is worse, but installing a toilet is possible there too. In this situation, the volume of work and the estimate will increase, but from the technical side everything can be solved. Alternatively, you can equip a combined bathroom in a small room, installing everything that the space allows: a toilet, a bathtub, a washing machine, etc.

It is more difficult when there is simply no suitable premises. In this case, you will have to look for a free corner. It’s okay if such a place was found only in the kitchen. In order not to spoil the appetite with unpleasant odors and views, the toilet is fenced off with a solid partition, and the entrance to it is cut through the adjacent wall. As a building material, you can use lining, chipboard, plasterboard and the like.

Important! Soundproofing material must be placed between the layers of cladding so that the use of the toilet does not cause discomfort to others. It is better to start building the partition after laying communications: plumbing work in a confined space is extremely difficult.

Sewerage in a private house

According to the method of transporting waste, sewage systems are of two types: pressure (forced) and non-pressure (gravity). In a pressure system, waste is driven by a fecal pump, while in a gravity system, drainage occurs naturally due to the slope of the pipe. In a private home, both options are possible, and which one is preferable depends on specific conditions.

Gravity sewer

The main collateral normal operation Such a system requires strict adherence to the slope parameters, which must be uniform and constant along the entire length of the pipe. In this case, the horizontal drainage section can be as long as desired.

The most common installation mistake is that the slope is too steep. It is believed that the larger it is, the better the waste will drain. Oddly enough, this is actually not the case. Excessively fast movement of waste does not allow the pipe to be filled with water, which is why the inner walls are poorly washed. With the reverse error - when the slope is less than permissible - the flow speed is too low, which is also not good. A balance is required between filling and speed so that the system is self-cleaning during operation. Otherwise, plaque will form on the inner surface of the pipe, which will lead to worse drainage and the formation of blockages.

Important! The optimal slope of the sewer system has long been calculated by scientists and prescribed in SNiP. Its value for pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm is 3%, but we are interested in larger diameters - 80-110 mm. For them this figure is 2%. In other words, with every meter the pipe should fall two centimeters to the lowest drain point.

Pressure sewer

In some situations, making a gravity sewer is problematic. For example, when, in order to maintain a slope, you need to either lay the pipe below the floor level, or raise the upper end to too high a height. In the first case, large-scale destruction will occur, and in the second, you will have to build a pedestal for the toilet worthy of a small monument. In addition, laying pipes of this diameter through partitions and walls is fraught with obvious difficulties.

Pressure sewerage, the main part of which is the fecal pump, allows you to avoid such problems. Thanks to it, drainage waste can move from bottom to top, and the cross-section of pipes is reduced significantly. Household sewage pumps are compact, aesthetic, and capable of pumping wastewater several meters vertically and tens of meters horizontally. You can also buy a toilet with a built-in pump.

Installation of sewerage in the house

Perfect for indoor installation polypropylene pipes: They are lightweight, durable and can withstand temperatures up to 95°C without any deformation. The last quality will be very useful if it is connected to the same area washing machine, or simply someone decides to pour boiling water down the toilet.

Plastic sewerage is assembled according to the Lego principle. Installation begins from the bottom point, inserting the next part into the socket of the previous one. First, sealant is applied to the end of the pipe or fitting. This is done not so much to prevent leaks (the O-rings do their job quite well), but to facilitate the process: with such a diameter, joining requires significant effort, and with lubrication the work will go faster. When installing sewer systems, try not to use bends with right angles - you can make a 90° turn with two 45° bends, which will reduce flow inhibition.

A long piece of pipe can be easily and quickly shortened with a hacksaw - this is another big plus. To secure the structure, use clamps with studs or clips (the latter look more presentable). Inspections must be installed at the bottom of the risers, as well as before each turn and at the sewer exit from the house. If necessary, you can connect a plastic pipe to an already laid cast iron pipe, sealing the connection with a special rubber cuff.

Advice: if there is a basement under the toilet or just a room in which aesthetics are not in the first place in the interior, then a horizontal section can be laid under its ceiling. The advantages of this solution are obvious: firstly, there is no need to go around corners - the pipes will go through the shortest route, which will save time and materials; secondly, this way they will not take up space in the lower part of the premises.

Pressure sewer elements are connected to each other using welding or flanges. The diameter of the pipes varies from 20 to 40 mm and depends on the characteristics of the pump. Installation is possible not only from the outside, but also in a wall groove or under the floor.

Installation of external sewerage

The outer part of the sewer is laid in a trench. Regarding its depth, it is better to consult with specialists at your place of residence, since it depends on the climatic conditions of the region. In any case, you will have to dig much less if you use thermal insulation.

Pipes for external sewerage made from various materials: cement, asbestos, ceramics, cast iron and plastic. The latter are the most popular now.

Important! Only special plastic pipes are suitable for laying in a trench. As a rule, they are painted orange. At great depths and in places of increased load on the soil, it is better to use pipes made of more durable material or corrugated ones.

Of course, external non-pressure sewerage must have a constant slope of 2% in the direction of drainage. It will be much easier to do this if you pour a layer of sand about twenty centimeters thick at the bottom of the trench and properly level it.

Toilet installation

As a rule, private houses have wooden floors. Therefore, you need to start with preparing them: strengthening, leveling and laying linoleum. If the pipe neck is located above the toilet outlet, it must be raised. The material for the podium can be a wide board or several pieces of timber, and when installed on a concrete floor (for example, in the basement) - brick and cement. The wood should be well coated with linseed oil and painted.

In most cases, the connection to the sewer can be made directly: a regular cuff with an O-ring is inserted into the pipe, and the toilet outlet is inserted into it. If this is not possible, then a corrugated cuff or a plastic eccentric will be required. Connecting to a fecal pump is much simpler, since its inlet is at a standard height, and everything necessary for docking is already available.

Having placed the toilet in the intended place and making sure that it is securely connected to the sewer, we mark the holes. Then we remove it and drill the floor. A mounting kit is usually included in the kit. It includes self-tapping screws, as well as plastic dowels, washers and decorative caps.

We put the toilet back in place and use a building level to check whether it is level. If necessary, level it by placing something solid under the base. Upon completion of the work, it is necessary to fill the resulting gap with cement. If the installation is made not on the floor, but on the podium, then the leveling is done at the stage of its creation.

Now you can secure the toilet with self-tapping screws, not forgetting to place soft washers under the caps. Connections to the pipe and cuff must be syringed with silicone sealant. The same must be done with the base of the toilet so that water does not flow under it. The work is almost finished, all that remains is to connect the water to cistern. This is usually done with a coaxial hose, in front of which a tap must be placed.

Conclusion

Of course, making a toilet in a private house is not an easy task. You will have to invest a lot of work and finances, because in addition to the work described here, you also need to take care of ventilation. It’s good if there is already a sewer well, but if not, there’s another problem. However, it's worth it. A well-maintained bathroom greatly improves the quality of life. So start choosing a location, draw up a rough estimate and sewer plan. Let the frozen street toilet with frost-covered walls remain a thing of the past.

In a country house or in a private house, as a rule, there is no sewerage system. Therefore, people have learned to create comfortable living conditions for themselves, and the toilet is no exception. The very first thing that is built on the “bare” site that is being prepared for the construction of a house is a toilet. Despite the fact that we all imagine what this “miracle room” looks like and know (approximately) how it is built, we still shouldn’t rush. Do Ttoilet in a house without sewerage It won’t be difficult if you approach the matter thoroughly.

First you need to look around the area and understand where exactly the toilet should be. You don’t have to make the toilet box yourself; you can buy it ready-made. But some people don’t want to spend money and therefore do everything themselves. There is nothing complicated here, and all the necessary drawings can be found on the Internet or in specialized literature.

There are several types of toilets that can be installed in a country house or in a private home.

1. Outdoor pit toilet.
2. Powder closet
3. Backlash closet
4. Dry toilet
5. Chemical toilet
6. Peat toilet

Before building a toilet, it is very important to know the level at which underground channels flow in a given area. If the groundwater is located deeper than 2.5 meters, then any type will be available to you. If this level is less than 2.5 meters, then installing a toilet with a cesspool will no longer be possible.

The simplest option is pit toilet. This time-tested structure consists of a pit (up to 1.5 meters deep) and a toilet house. As the cesspool is filled, it is cleaned either manually or using special equipment. Previously, everything was decided much simpler. The toilet house was removed, the old hole was buried, and a new hole was dug in another place and the old house was erected.

Powder– a closet, this is an option where groundwater passes very close. Here the system resembles the option with a cesspool, but instead of just a hole (without burying), a container is installed here, which is constantly cleaned and disinfected. The container can be a barrel, a bucket, or a cistern.

Backlash- a closet is a sealed cesspool, which is located near the house, and all sewage flows from the toilet located in the house through a pipe into this sealed pit. It is constantly cleaned with a sewer machine.

Dry toilet. This is a cabin with a capacity. A very familiar device that can be bought and installed both indoors and outdoors.