How to connect a circulation pump to a double-circuit boiler. Do-it-yourself installation of an additional pump in a car

In the cold season, almost all drivers think about the efficiency of the stove in own car. There are a large number of cars in which the stove does not provide the best heating of the interior during driving. This problem is quite successfully solved by installing an additional pump on the VAZ 2110 stove. Let’s try to figure out what kind of pump it is and how it is installed?

Why do you need an additional pump?

If you are the owner of this car, then you will probably notice that hot air from the dampers can only be observed when they reach at least 2000 rpm.

When working on idle speed, the stove fan blows out only warm air. The thing is that the speed of circulation of antifreeze throughout the entire cooling system depends on the rotation speed of a conventional pump, and the faster the circulation occurs, the higher the temperature of the tubes located in the heater radiator.

The problem is solved by installing a special mechanical device - an additional pump, which accelerates the circulation of coolant and helps maintain the interior temperature even when the engine is idling.

At first glance, it would seem that such a system was invented by ordinary garage craftsmen who simply made their lives easier by trying not to change the root of the system’s design. However, this is not the case, because this technology has been successfully used for a long time even on world brands such as BMW or even Mercedes Benz.

How to install an additional pump?

Before you begin work, you need to purchase everything you need. This list includes:

• Electric pump from a Gazelle car. He will be that very pump.
• A relay in which the contacts are normally open. The starter relay from the VAZ 2108 is ideal for this.
• Hose clamps in quantity of at least 5 pieces.
• Reinforced hose. The length of the piece must be at least 1 meter (with a margin).

Now . By the way, this is an excellent opportunity to change antifreeze if necessary, so you can also include new antifreeze in the list above.

To improve the efficiency of the pump, remove the four screws from the pump and remove the top housing. There is a gasket inside that needs to be carefully assembled. However, now the housing must be secured using long bolts and nuts. This way you will ensure the best tightness of the future pump.

The location of the pump installation is chosen by the driver independently. In this case, there is only one main requirement: the pump must be connected to exactly the hose that leads to the stove radiator. Otherwise the pump may be damaged.

There are enough studs for mounting the pump under the hood, so there should be no problems with the placement of the pump.

Now the most important thing remains - to turn on the additional pump. The power will be supplied from the recirculation valve, so the circuit will be as follows:

1. Disconnect the white and yellow-blue wires from the recirculation valve. The first wire is connected to relay contact number 85, and the second to contact 30. Contacts 30 and 86 must also be connected using a jumper.
2. Contact number 87 is connected to the wire of the pump itself. To check the operation of the pump, just press the button. Everything else just needs to be connected to ground. If it rotates, then everything is done correctly.

All hoses must be connected using sealant. After carrying out the work, fill in antifreeze and check the functionality of the pump. It is recommended to repair any detected leaks. This is how you can easily install an additional pump from a gazelle on a VAZ 2110 car.

Quite common in cars Russian production V winter period Cold. You can create more comfortable conditions by installing an additional pump.

What is needed to install a new pump on a car?

Alas, many cars, regardless of the manufacturer, do not withstand any criticism in the harsh Russian conditions in matters of interior heat supply. Simply put, the performance of the stove does not live up to the expectations placed on it, and in the car, even with a big minus outside, it is simply cold. But it turns out that everything can be fixed, and with our own hands. The main thing is to have a head on your shoulders and instructions for use.

2. Relay. It is best to take the starter or ignition relay, where the contacts are best open.

3. Small pieces of aluminum and reinforced hose.

4. Coolant in a volume of at least two liters.

5. Clamps, six pieces are enough.

Pump installation process

Before starting work, cool the engine naturally. Then drain the coolant into a clean container. We will need it later, so we have to worry about its cleanliness.

After this procedure, take a new pump and, on the side where the impeller is located, unscrew the four screws. Gasket from rubber material, which is found in this place, we lubricate it with ordinary sealant. Next, we reassemble the pump, but instead of the removed screws, we install elongated thin bolts under the nuts. Only this approach ensures the best sealing of the connection.

The next step is to determine where to install the additional electric pump. There are several possibilities for this:

On the washer reservoir mounting stud;

On a hairpin near the battery;

On the mounts of the standard Shumka located on the engine shield.

To attach it to the tube from under the manifold, you first need to install an adapter corner on it (to prevent the hose from bending) with a small piece of hose (at least 10 cm); we fasten the structure with clamps (4 pieces are required).

The process of connecting the pump with the hose from the stove is much easier, since it does not require the installation of adapters, you just need to pull it right size and make the connection. Also secure with clamps (2 pcs.). In order to finally secure everything, it is recommended to put an aluminum corrugated pipe on the installed hoses in the area of ​​the exhaust manifold so that the hot air does not melt the hoses. We finally secure everything and move on to connecting the electrics.

When installing the pump, the ground wire of the winding must be grounded, the power wire of the relay is connected to the pump wiring, the positive wire from the relay is passed through a fuse that is connected to the battery positive. The control from the plus relay is pulled to the start button in the interior along with the battery plus. The button in the cabin is placed in any convenient place.

The final stage is checking the pump in action. To do this, you need to return the antifreeze to its homeland, and if necessary, add more, start the engine and wait a little while the engine warms up. Then use the button to start the additional pump.

Now the cold weather has arrived and the owner of the VAZ 2109, living in Russia, will again have to face the problem of the stove. Indeed, either the domestic manufacturer initially did not take care of its normal functioning, or this car should have such a system, but the VAZ 2109 with an electric pump, which is installed independently, is more suitable in winter in our country.
On a VAZ 2109, installing an electric pump will not take much time and it is enough to know the basic algorithm for carrying out the operation, which will be discussed in our article.

It is clear that no owner wants to freeze in his car all winter. And passengers are unlikely to want to sit in a kind of “refrigerator”, where instead of warming up, you freeze completely.
The standard stove of this car, of course, warms, but it does it reluctantly and as if on debt. It's all about low efficiency it, especially at idle, when you are stuck, for example, in traffic jams.
Installing an additional electric pump, in this case, solves the problem immediately. In fact, there are many ways to make the interior of your “nine”, but modifying the car by installing an electric pump is the most rational solution.

What can it give

So, let’s first find out what an additional electric pump in the VAZ 2109 will give us:

• It turns out that installing an additional pump in a car of this model of the VAZ family can significantly increase the efficiency of blowing warm air into the interior at idle.

Note. In other words, if a standard stove blows hot air only when the car is moving, and only blows warm air at idle, this means poor circulation of fluid in the CO. Modernizing CO by installing an additional pump will allow antifreeze to circulate faster.

• Installing an additional pump, of course, will significantly insulate the interior, but the volume of pumped antifreeze will double. This, in turn, will lead to the fact that the engine will begin to cool down more and you need to take care, in addition, to conserve its heat.
  In this case, complete thermal insulation of the car will be what is needed, especially since nowadays you can find a huge amount of materials for this in stores.
• An additional pump, of course, gives an irreplaceable effect. On the other hand, this creates an additional load on, which will also have to be modernized.
  The fact is that the “nines” have a slightly weak current converter.

How to choose an electric pump

It seems that we have sorted out what the additional pump gives us.
Now let's find out how to choose it:

• The Gazelle electric pump is usually the most popular option. It will fit perfectly. This element is a conventional centrifugal pump.
  The disadvantage of this pump is that it cannot pump air due to the large gaps between the impeller and the housing.

Note. Gazelle pumps are also different. Old and new pumps are known. As a rule, new electric pumps vibrate less and their use is more rational.

• “Advanced”, so to speak, motorists, are advised to install as more the best option, electric pump from Bosh.
• An option like a pump from Elara will also do. Manufacturer in Lately significantly improved the element by installing a new seal that does not leak.
  In addition, the cross-section of the fittings was increased, and this gave a double increase in productivity.
• A pump from Advers will also do.

The owner himself decides which pump to choose. There is practically no difference between the pump options, but you need to choose a pump that does not leak.
In addition, by choosing a high-quality pump, the likelihood of it breaking or performing poorly will be reduced to zero.

Installing an additional pump on a VAZ 2109

In this article we will learn how to install an additional pump on a car like a real auto electrician. The VAZ 2109 is a car that allows you to constantly modernize and improve something, however, like all models of this family.
Let us present to the reader two algorithms on how to mount a pump from Gazelle and from Bosh.

Installing a Gazelle pump

As mentioned above, this is the most common option for installing an additional pump.
Tools and materials:

• The Gazelle pump is standard. Costs about 1000 Russian rubles.
• Relay with normally open contacts. Standard relays from the starter or ignition will do, where you just need to bridge the necessary contacts.
• Some reinforced hose.
• 2 liters of coolant (regular antifreeze).
• Medium-sized clamps in the amount of 5 pieces.

Let's get started:

• We wait until the system cools down. The antifreeze is drained from the tank into some clean container if its reuse is intended.
  If you intend to use new antifreeze, then you can drain it for recycling.
• On top of the pump we see 4 screws. They will need to be unscrewed to get to the rubber seal of the impeller. We lubricate this gasket with a sealing compound.
• We assemble the pump, but instead of standard self-tapping screws we install long thin bolts, on the advice of an auto electrician. The VAZ 2109, by the way, is a car in which the Gazelle pump is quite successfully installed.

Advice. Some motorists who are installing an electric pump for the first time are wondering: where is it better to install the pump, in the gap in the heater supply pipe or in the outlet pipe? In fact, there is no difference in this, as long as the pump is installed downstream of the coolant flow.

• We attach the electric pump.

Note. You can mount the additional pump on the VAZ 2109 directly to the stud of the washer reservoir or to the stud near the battery.
In addition, some craftsmen advise installing it on the factory Shumka mount, which, as you know, is located on the engine shield. It is most rational to place it near the battery, which is what we will do.

• Unclench the iron clamp.
• We install the pump with a horizontal pipe towards the block.

Now you need to think about how to establish a connection. It is most practical to transfer the connection to the recirculation button. If not, then you can put it on the SAUO unit or on heated mirrors.

• Two wires are disconnected from the recirculation valve: with a white-blue stripe and a yellow-blue stripe.

Note. Let us remind you that the recirculation valve is located on the engine compartment panel, and two thin hoses go to it.

• We connect the blue-white wire to one terminal of the relay.
• Yellow-blue to the second relay terminal.
• We connect the third terminal of the relay to the wire of the electric pump.

Now it's time to check how the pump works. When you press the button, the pump should begin to hum and blow air. If this does not happen, then something was done wrong.
We continue with the installation:

• Disconnect hose 1, which carries coolant to the heater from the outlet pipe.
• We connect it to the horizontal pipe of the pump (the length is enough, if anything).
• Now you need to connect hose 2 to the vertical pipe of the pump, which itself consists of 2 S-shaped pipes (it is located between the tap and). As a last resort, instead of this hose, you can use another one of a suitable size and type.
• The second end of this hose must be pulled to the block head, from where hose 1 was removed.
• Tighten the clamps.
• Be sure to tighten the drain plug in the block.

We continue the process:

• Fill coolant to the maximum mark.
• We turn over the engine.
• Visually inspect the pumps for leaks.
• Then we turn on the ignition again and check for leaks, which we fix if found.
• We tighten the clamps.
• Let the engine run for about 30 minutes.
• Refill coolant to the required level.

Checking the new pump

It is advisable to check in air when the temperature is about -10 degrees Celsius:

• The engine temperature should be +85.
• We turn off the engine.
• We turn on the heater at first speed and watch how semi-warm air blows.
• We turn on the additional pump and immediately see the difference: hot air blows! Hot air flows until the engine temperature cools down to +45 degrees.
• We start the engine again, heat it to the desired temperature and check everything again.
• If everything repeats, then the pump is functioning normally.

Bosh pump installation

Again, for this we will prepare the necessary materials.
Materials you will need:

• A pump from Bosh, which costs about 1,300 rubles.
• Relay with chip.
• Two wires of 5 meters of different colors.
• 20 different terminals.
• A button with an LED, usually used on foreign cars.
• Special connector for pump.

Installation algorithm:

• First of all, we lay the electrical wires.
• It is advisable to install the relay behind the car radio.
• From the relay we lay a 12V wire to the pump.
• The other wire goes to the button with the LED.
• Don't forget to connect ground to the button.
• The plus appears from the radio when the ignition is turned on.
• As a result, when the car is running, after pressing the button, the LED lights up and the additional pump begins to function.
• Now we install the pump itself.

Note. A common problem when installing an aftermarket pump can be threading the factory hose onto the pump. Let us note right away that it is easier to go and buy a new one than to try to install a standard one.

• We thread a new hose for the stove 18 mm.
• We place the pump and cover it with double-sided tape, and then secure it well with a clamp.
• We lead the +12V wire into the engine compartment to the ECU.
• Connect and you're done.

The costs of such an installation are minimal. If it costs about 2,000 rubles, that’s still a lot.
Refinement of the standard system will only give positive results. The instructions given above will tell you how to do everything with minimal loss of time and money.
Videos and photos will help you gain practical understanding in the process, so we don’t ignore them. The cost of installing an additional electric pump will not affect the family budget in any way if you do everything yourself.

To make heated water flow more cheerfully through the pipes, a circulation pump is installed in the heating systems of private houses. This solution provides tangible benefits. But main question, which worries homeowners and is covered in this material, is where it is better to install the pump and how to install it correctly. After all, the main part of the controversy and doubt is caused by the place where the unit is inserted. And at the same time, we’ll figure out how to connect it to the house electrical network with our own hands.

What are the benefits of pump heating systems?

30 years ago, so-called steam heating was common in private homes, where the coolant circulated through pipes and radiators by gravity, and the heat source was a gas boiler or wood stove. Pumps for pumping water were used in district heating networks. When compact circulation pumps for heating appeared, they migrated to private housing construction, as they provided the following advantages:

1. The speed of coolant movement has increased. The heat generated by the boiler has become faster delivered to the radiators and transferred to the premises.
2. Accordingly, the process of heating the house has accelerated significantly.
3. The higher the flow rate, the more throughput pipes. This means that the same amount of heat can be delivered to rooms through lines of smaller diameter. Simply put, the pipelines have become half the size thanks to the forced circulation of water from the pump, which is cheaper and more practical.
4. Highways can now be laid with a minimum slope and water heating circuits can be made as complex and extensive as desired. The main thing is the correct selection of the pumping unit in terms of power and pressure created.
5. Domestic circulation pump for heating made it possible to organize heated floors and more efficient closed systems working under pressure.
6. It was possible to remove from view the ubiquitous pipes that run through the rooms and do not always harmonize with the interior. Increasingly, heating communications are laid in walls, under floor coverings and behind suspended (suspended) ceilings.

Note. A minimum slope of 2-3 mm per 1 m of pipeline is needed to empty the network in case of repair or maintenance. Previously, it was made at least 5 mm / 1 m.p.

Pumping systems also have disadvantages. This is a dependence on electricity and its consumption by the pumping unit during the heating season. Therefore, if there are frequent power outages, the circulation pump must be installed together with an uninterruptible power supply unit or connected to an electric generator. The second drawback is not critical; if you select the power of the device correctly, then the electricity consumption will be acceptable.

Leading manufacturers of heating equipment, such as Grundfos or Wilo, have developed new models of units that can save energy. For example, if you buy and install an Alpfa2 circulation pump from the Grundfos brand, it will automatically change its performance depending on the needs of the heating system. True, its price starts from 120 USD. e.

Where to install the pump - supply or return

Despite the abundance of information on the Internet, it is quite difficult for the user to understand how to correctly install a heating pump in order to ensure forced circulation of water in the system of their own home. The reason is the inconsistency of this information, which causes constant debate on thematic forums. Most of the so-called specialists claim that the unit is installed only on the return pipeline, citing the following conclusions:

• the coolant temperature in the supply is much higher than in the return, so the pump will not last long;
• The density of hot water in the supply line is less, so it is more difficult to pump;
• The static pressure in the return line is higher, which makes the pump easier to operate.

Interesting fact. Sometimes a person accidentally ends up in a boiler room that provides central heating for apartments, and sees the units there embedded in the return line. After this, he considers this solution to be the only correct one, although he does not know that in other boiler houses centrifugal pumps can also be installed on the supply pipe.

We respond to the above statements point by point:

1. Household circulation pumps are designed for a maximum coolant temperature of 110 °C. In a home heating network it rarely rises above 70 degrees, and the boiler will not heat the water more than 90 °C.
2. The density of water at 50 degrees is 988 kg/m³, and at 70 °C – 977.8 kg/m³. For a unit that develops a pressure of 4-6 m of water column and is capable of pumping about a ton of coolant in 1 hour, the difference in the density of the transported medium is 10 kg/m³ (the volume of a ten-liter canister) is simply negligible.
3. In practice, the difference in static pressure of the coolant in the supply and return lines is equally insignificant.

Here's a simple conclusion: Circulation pumps for heating can be embedded into both the return and supply pipelines of the heating system of a private house. This factor will not in any way affect the performance of the unit or the heating efficiency of the building.

The exception is cheap solid fuel direct combustion boilers that are not equipped with automation. When overheated, the coolant in them boils, since burning wood cannot be extinguished at once. If the circulation pump is installed on the supply side, then the resulting steam mixed with water enters the housing with the impeller. The further process looks like this:

1. The impeller of the pumping device is not designed to move gases. Therefore, the performance of the device decreases sharply, and the flow rate of the coolant drops.
2. Less cooling water enters the boiler tank, causing overheating to increase and even more steam to be produced.
3. An increase in the amount of steam and its entry into the impeller leads to a complete stop of the coolant movement in the system. An emergency situation occurs and, as a result of an increase in pressure, a safety valve is activated, releasing steam directly into the boiler room.
4. If no measures are taken to extinguish the firewood, the valve cannot cope with the pressure release and an explosion occurs with the destruction of the boiler shell.

For reference. In cheap heat generators made of thin metal, the response threshold of the safety valve is 2 Bar. In higher quality TT boilers, this threshold is set at 3 Bar.

Practice shows that no more than 5 minutes pass from the start of the overheating process to the valve activation. If you install the circulation pump on return pipe, then steam will not get into it and the time period before the accident will increase to 20 minutes. That is, installing the unit on the return line will not prevent an explosion, but will delay it, which will give more time to fix the problem. Hence the recommendation: it is better to install pumps for boilers running on wood and coal on the return pipeline.

For well-automated pellet heaters, the installation location does not matter. You will learn more information on the topic from our expert’s video:

Installation diagrams in various types of systems

To begin with, let’s clarify the place where to install the flow pump, which circulates water through the boiler and forcibly directs it to the radiators of the heating system. According to ours, whose experience is trustworthy, the installation location must be chosen in such a way that the unit is convenient to maintain. On the supply side it should be located after the safety group and shut-off valves, as shown in the installation diagram:

On the return, the pump must be placed directly in front of the heat generator, and in tandem with a filter - a mud trap, so that you do not have to buy and install extra taps. The wiring diagram for the pumping unit looks like this:

Recommendation. A circulation pump can be installed in this way in both a closed and an open heating system, there is not much difference. The statement also applies to the collector system, where the coolant moves to the radiators through separate connections connected to the distribution comb.

A separate issue is an open heating system with a circulation pump, capable of operating in 2 modes - forced and gravity. The latter is useful for homes where power outages often occur, and the owners’ income does not allow them to buy an uninterruptible power supply unit or a generator. Then the device with shut-off valves must be installed on the bypass, and a tap must be inserted into a straight line, as shown in the diagram:

Important point. On sale there are ready-made bypass units with a pump, where instead of a tap on the flow there is a check valve. Such a solution cannot be called correct, since a spring-type check valve creates a resistance of the order of 0.08-0.1 Bar, which is too much for a gravity heating system. Instead, you can use a petal valve, but it must be installed only in a horizontal position.

Finally, we will explain how to install and connect a circulation pump to a boiler that burns solid fuel. As mentioned above, it is better to place the unit on the line coming from the heating system to the heat generator, as shown in the diagram:

Installation rules

The design of a household circulation pump from any manufacturer provides for its fastening to pipelines or shut-off valves using union nuts (American). This allows it to be quickly dismantled if necessary, for example, for replacement or repair. When installing the pump unit, follow these recommendations:

1. Place the device on any sections of pipelines - horizontal, vertical or inclined, but with one condition: the rotor axis must be in a horizontal position. That is, installation “head down” or up is unacceptable.
2. Please note that the plastic box with electrical contacts is located on top of the case, otherwise it will be flooded with water in the event of an accident. Yes, and servicing the product will not be easy. This is easy to achieve: unscrew the screws securing the casing and turn it to the desired angle.
3. Remember to follow the flow direction indicated by the arrow on the housing.
4. So that the product can be removed without emptying the system, install shut-off valves before and after it, as shown in the diagrams in the previous section.

Advice. It so happened that the load from the weight of the circulation unit will fall on 1 or 2 ball valves (depending on the orientation of the area in space). Hence the recommendation: do not save money and buy high-quality shut-off valves, whose body will not crack over time from mechanical stress.

About installing additional units

As a rule, in a closed or open radiator heating system, where the heat source is a single boiler, it is enough to install one circulation pump. In more complex schemes, additional units are used for pumping water (there may be 2 or more of them). They are placed in the following cases:

• when more than one boiler installation is used to heat a private house;
• if a buffer tank is involved in the piping scheme;
• the heating system has several branches serving various consumers - radiators, heated floors and an indirect heating boiler;
• the same, using a hydraulic separator (hydraulic arrow);
• for organizing water circulation in underfloor heating circuits.

Correct piping of several boilers operating on different types fuel, requires that each of them have its own pumping unit, as shown in the diagram of the joint connection of an electric and TT boiler. , described in our other article.

In a circuit with a buffer tank, it is necessary to install an additional pump, because it involves at least 2 circulation circuits - boiler and heating.

A separate story - complex circuit heating with several branches, sold in large cottages on 2-4 floors. Here, from 3 to 8 pumping devices can be used (sometimes more), supplying coolant floor by floor and to different heating devices. An example of such a circuit is shown below.

Finally, a second circulation pump is installed when heating the house with water-heated floors. Together with the mixing unit, it performs the task of preparing coolant with a temperature of 35-45 ° C. is clearly described in a separate material.

Reminder. Sometimes pumping devices do not need to be installed for heating at all. The fact is that most electric and gas wall-mounted heat generators are equipped with their own pumping units built inside the housing.

Connecting the circulation pump to the electrical network

There are several ways to connect power to the device:

• through a conventional differential machine;
• with thermostat control;
• connection to the network together with an uninterruptible power supply unit (UPS);
• powering the unit from the boiler automation.

Warning. Often, homeowners simply plug the pump into a regular outlet, connecting the wires to a purchased plug. We cannot recommend this approach, because connection without grounding and a safety circuit breaker is dangerous. If there is a problem with the device or if it is filled with water, you risk receiving an electric shock.

The first connection diagram is quite simple and any user can assemble it with his own hands. You will need an 8 A differential circuit breaker, wires and contacts. Connect to grounding both in this circuit and in all others.

To automatically stop the movement of the coolant when cooled to a certain temperature, it is used electrical diagram connecting a circulation pump with a thermostat. The latter is attached to the supply pipeline and breaks the power supply circuit when the water temperature drops below a set value.

Attention! To ensure that the thermostat does not lie and turns off the circulation in time, it must be attached to a metal section of the line. Polymers do not transfer heat well, so when mounted on a plastic pipe, the device will not work correctly.

There are no difficulties in connecting the power supply through a UPS, for which the latter has special connectors. The heat generator itself should also be connected to them if it needs electricity. But connecting the pump to the boiler control panel or to its automation is a more complicated procedure. It is advisable to have knowledge and skills in the field of electrical engineering.

At what speed should the pump in the heating system operate?

The purpose of forced circulation is to effectively heat the house through the reliable delivery of heat to all consumers of the system, right up to the furthest radiator. To do this, the pumping unit must develop the required pressure (otherwise known as pressure), which is ideally calculated by design engineers based on the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline network.

Most household pumps have from 3 to 7 rotor speeds, due to which the performance and pressure generated can be increased or decreased. In order not to torment you with hydraulic calculations, we offer the following method for selecting the optimal speed:

1. Find a laser surface thermometer (pyrometer). Put the heating system into operating mode.
2. Measure the surface temperature of the pipe at the inlet and outlet of the boiler.
3. If the temperature difference is more than 20 °C, increase the rotor speed. After 30 minutes, repeat the measurement.
4. When the temperature difference is less than 10 °C, the water flow rate must be reduced. The goal is to achieve a delta between supply and return of about 15 °C.

Advice. Do not switch the pump to a different circulation speed “on the fly”. Disconnect it from the network, move the regulator to a different position, and then put it back into operation.

You can do without a pyrometer when thermometers are installed on the supply and return lines. If the adjustment limits do not allow you to enter the range of 10-20 °C temperature difference, your system is not working efficiently due to an incorrectly selected circulation pump. Too cold return water increases the load on the boiler and increases fuel consumption. Water that is too hot means that it flows too quickly and does not have time to transfer heat to the heating devices.

Leading European brand Grundfos offers circulation pumps latest generation Alpfa3, who are able to independently select performance depending on the load and in this way adapt the work to changing conditions. With their help, you can even balance the heating system, which our expert will tell you about in the next video:

Conclusion

Now you know how to properly install a circulation pump in a water heating system and connect it to the electrical network country house. This will save you from making all sorts of mistakes that lead to minor and major troubles. Again, you can install and wire the unit yourself. The only difficulty is to embed it into a section of steel pipeline. But there is a way out: find a set of tools for manually cutting pipe threads, cut out a piece of pipe with a grinder and mount the pump unit.

Among additional equipment In heating systems with liquid coolant, circulation pumps are relevant. They are used in heating using any type of fuel.

In most cases, installing an additional pump in a system with natural circulation significantly increases the speed of movement and heating of the room. The device itself does not have a particularly complex design and is small in size.

Particular attention should be paid to the parameters of the additional pump and installation.

Installation of additional equipment

Modification of the existing heating system will be necessary in the following cases:

1. The coolant moves naturally.
2. Expansion of heated area.
3. The existing pump in the boiler does not ensure uniform distribution of the coolant.

In any of these situations, installing an additional device can provide high-quality heating of every room in the house.

Take note: incorrect calculations of the future heating system can lead to its ineffective functioning.

One way to eliminate this drawback is to install an additional circulation pump. This solution will be much more profitable than complete replacement main equipment with suitable characteristics.

Circulation pump for heating systems of the Wilo brand:

Correct position is the key to reliable operation

Most often, wet rotor pumps are installed in private homes.

A design feature of the equipment is the absence of special lubricants.

The heating fluid acts as a coolant and lubricates the rotating elements.

Taking into account this feature, there are the following rules, which mandatory must be observed:

• the pump shaft is strictly horizontal relative to the floor;
• the direction of movement of the coolant must coincide with a special mark on the equipment;
• installation in a section of the system with a minimum coolant temperature.

Electrical installation features

Connection of additional equipment for the heating system is carried out through a centralized electrical panel, which has control capabilities.

New models of circulation pumps have built-in protection and resistance to blocking currents, so a normal ground connection can be made.

Direct contact of liquid with the terminal box must also be prevented. Accordingly, when installing, the placement should be on the side or on top.

Features of piping

Besides correct installation the circulation pump itself, it is necessary to correctly place a number of other elements and comply with technological requirements. Namely:

• in the direction of movement of the coolant, but a mesh filter is installed in front of the pump;
• shut-off valves are installed on both sides;
• for models of significant power, it is necessary to install anti-vibration inserts (for low-power pumps - optional);
• if there are two or more circulation pumps, each pressure pipe is equipped with a check valve, and it is also necessary mandatory installation similar backup device;
• absence of compression and pressure loads, as well as torsion from the ends of the pipelines.

Installation method

There are two ways to install equipment for efficient coolant circulation in the system:

• a separate unit;
• direct connection to the heating system.

Most often, preference is given to the second option. There are two approaches to its implementation. The first is to simply insert a circulation pump into the supply pipe.

The second involves the use of a U-shaped element, which is attached in two places to the main pipe. In the middle of this structure is installed. This implementation installation is characterized by the presence of a bypass.

Good to know: in systems with natural circulation, it is possible to disconnect the pump from the circuit.

In case of frequent power outages with centralized system, this design will ensure the functionality of the system. Although with less efficiency.

Connection

The process of connecting an additional circulation pump consists of several stages:

1. Determining the installation location. Based on the requirements, it must be installed as close as possible to heating boiler. The temperature regime will be optimal, which will ensure a long service life.
2. Turning off the boiler and shutting off the coolant supply using the existing shut-off valves. If there are no controls, drain the water from the system.
3. Design and implementation of the bypass. With its help, the system will function in the event of a pump failure or temporary power outage.
4. Installation of check valve and filter.
5. Installation of shut-off valves. Allows you to carry out maintenance by closing only the locking elements.
6. Bleeding air through a special valve and starting.

Advantages and features of installing a water-to-water heat pump:

If the circulation pump is idle, it is necessary to bleed the air before starting, as it accumulates over time.

Installing an additional circulation pump in a heating system with liquid coolant will provide the following benefits:

• increase efficiency;
• ensure uniform heat distribution;
• reduce fuel consumption;
• use pipes of smaller diameter;
• significantly speed up the warming up process, even in the most remote room.

The pump design is reliable and has a long service life if installed and connected correctly. It is better to entrust the choice of a suitable model in terms of power and other characteristics to specialists.

How to install an additional pump in the heating system, see the following video: