Installing a drain in the bathroom with your own hands. Installing a drain in the bathroom - protection from unpleasant odors and water overflow

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It is rare that the owner of a house or apartment has not encountered the need to replace or install a drain and overflow mechanism for a bathtub. The bathtub drainage device is intended to regulate the water level in the sanitary ware. Thanks to its presence, there is no overflow of liquid over the edges of the structure during its filling.

Differences between automatic and semi-automatic drains in the bathroom

• semi-automatic;
• auto.

The semi-automatic bathtub drain (see photo) is designed in such a way that the drain plug is lifted using a small cable that connects the overflow mechanism to the drain. In this case, the opening/closing of the drain hole occurs as a result of turning the lid.

Installing a drain in a bathroom of this type has the following positive aspects:

• attractive appearance;
• ease of use.

The drainage device in the bathroom functions as follows: to lift the lid, you just need to press it. The opening/closing mechanism is located in the lid.

The automatic system has an attractive appearance, but it also has a significant drawback - you have to bend over hard to operate the drain plug. True, there is also an automatic one with a filling mechanism. This product is installed in the absence of a mixer.

Bathroom drain materials

• do not rust;
• do not rot;
• They are resistant to water with a high salt content.

How to properly install a drain

Do-it-yourself installation of a bathroom drain is done using screwdrivers and a flashlight.

Other building materials you will need:

• plastic pipes;
• silicone sealant;
• sewer pipes (most often with a diameter of 40 or 50 millimeters).

• dismantling the old product;
• cleaning the inner surface of the sewer pipe.

A more difficult task is replacing a bathroom drain with cast iron pipe, if it was connected to the pipe using cement mortar. To remove cement, you will need a hammer and chisel. Brittle cast iron must be handled with extreme care. All cement chips should be carefully removed as they will contribute to the formation of a blockage.

There is a certain sequence of actions on how to properly drain a bathroom:

• first install the bathtub (more details: " ");
• then the tee is attached;
• connect the corner with the siphon;
• check the functioning of the drain and overflow.

To attach the tee to the grate on the drain, use a bolt. The reliability of the connection is ensured by the use of a rubber gasket and sealant. To connect the lower end of the tee to the siphon, use a cone seal and a nut. The pipe that connects the overflow hole to the tee is mounted in its side.

In the process of attaching the angle to the drain, it is necessary to securely seal the connections. When tightening mechanism parts, you must act extremely carefully so as not to strip the threads.

Usually, when connecting a siphon to a sewerage system, a 40 mm plastic pipe is used. When the diameter of the sewer pipe is 50 millimeters, use a plastic adapter from 40 to 50 millimeters. If the sewer is cast iron, you need to use a rubber coupling connection of the appropriate size.

When choosing materials before installing a drain in the bathroom, it is advisable to purchase plastic pipes of increased rigidity. You should not buy corrugated flexible tubes that have increased hydraulic resistance. These products become clogged quickly and are difficult to clean.

The comfort level of taking water procedures is largely determined by functionality devices included in the plumbing equipment package.

The bathtub overflow drain is responsible for the water level, preventing the bowl from overflowing, including in the event of uncontrolled filling. Which overflow model is best to choose for a bathroom and how to install the system yourself, let’s look at it in more detail.

The bathtub overflow drain is a closed pipe system, one end of which is connected to the drain on board the bathtub, and the other to the outlet to the sewer.

The pipes that are hermetically connected to each other must be equipped with a siphon, the key task of which is to prevent the spread of unpleasant odors in the room

Main elements modern systems bath overflow features:

• Drain neck. It is made of two halves: the upper part is a chrome funnel, which acts as a “trap” for large debris, and the lower part is an expanding pipe equipped with a nut inserted inside. The element is mounted in the drain hole at the bottom of the bowl.
• Overflow neck. It has the same design as the drain neck. The only difference is that the water outlet is not directly located, but lateral.
• Siphon. An easily removable curved pipe acts as a water seal. It can have different configurations and capacity.
• Connecting hose. The corrugated pipe is designed to drain water from the overflow neck into the siphon. It is connected to the system elements using special pipes without crimps or using a crimp nut equipped with a gasket.
• Auxiliary pipe. It is a rigid or easily bendable corrugated pipe designed to connect a siphon to a sewerage system. Drain fittings with a rigid pipe are more reliable, but not very easy to install.

When choosing a harness, pay special attention to the volume of the water seal. If at some point the ventilation of the sewer riser fails to function properly, due to the resulting excess pressure, water from the damper will begin to be drawn into the drain.

As a result, an extremely unpleasant persistent odor will appear. A siphon with a hydraulic damper bowl volume of 300 cm 3 and above will not allow the smell to spread into the room.

What are the devices made of?

In previous years, when the plumbing equipment market was not particularly diverse, the main elements of the system were made of ferrous metal.

In principle, such structures can properly serve for decades; their only drawback can be considered their unsightly appearance

The materials for the manufacture of the main elements of modern systems are most often:

• sanitary plastic;
• non-ferrous metals.

Polypropylene is affordable. It is famous for the fact that it does not rust and is resistant to water, “rich” in salt content. But in comparison with metal, when arranging a bathroom, plumbing plastic looks very budget-friendly.

And in bathrooms decorated in exquisite design - it’s completely ridiculous. You should choose plastic piping if you plan to install a screen under the bathtub.

In terms of design and excellent performance parameters, metal bindings are the leaders: although they are more expensive, they allow you to maintain the desired style

Among non-ferrous metals with high corrosion resistance, the most common are copper, bronze and brass. As a rule, they are not used in their pure form.

Opening mechanisms, drain grates and other visible parts are coated with nickel or chromium using galvanoplasty technology.

Metal strapping is advantageous in that it practically does not deteriorate over time; the service life of such products is more than 10 years. They need timely cleaning, which is not difficult to do by disassembling the washer connection.

Chrome parts are “vulnerable” to mechanical stress. The slightest scratch can ruin the protective nickel-plated film; over time, the coating will simply “wash off”.

Nickel parts are renowned for their durability. But they are significantly inferior to plastic in terms of resistance to mechanical stress. Bronze products are much harder and more durable.

The easiest way to visually determine what metal the system elements are made of is by the color of the metal:

• copper is a rather soft and ductile metal with a reddish tint;
• bronze is a durable alloy of copper and tin, which is closer to dark brown in color;
• brass - is a harder alloy of zinc and copper, colored yellowish.

In interiors decorated in classic and retro styles, trims made of brass or bronze will look good

For modern styles Nickel-plated models with a shiny surface are more suitable.

What types of bathtub trims are there?

In all overflow systems described below, excess water is removed by gravity. The only difference is in the method of removing the plug from the drain hole located at the bottom of the bowl.

Not equipped with mechanisms

The simplest version of the overflow prevention system is a metal or plastic pipe, which is connected at one end to the bathtub drain.

The drain for collecting water in such structures is closed with a regular plug.

Chrome-plated grilles in combination with nickel-plated plugs look very presentable; the only thing that can spoil the “picture” is the hanging chain on which the cork is suspended

Simple siphons available for sale may differ in three parameters:

• connection element to the sewer system (rigid pipe or corrugation);
• pipe shape (rectangular or round);
• method of sealing connections (straight or conical gaskets).

The external visible elements of any configuration of such systems often have a stylish design, due to which they carry a certain amount of aesthetics.

Semi-automatic plums

Devices operating on the semi-automatic principle are more convenient to use. The main feature of the design solution is that on the outer grille of the overflow pipe there is a control unit that regulates the tension of the cable attached to it.

The second end of the cable is held under the bathtub and connected through a rod on the cuff to the drain plug. The plug itself is tightly mounted into the system, acting as an integral part of it.

The control unit may have a different design, but in any case the overflow hole will be located behind it. The control block may look like:

• buttons;
• rotary ring;
• handles on the escutcheon.

The operating principle of a semi-automatic overflow drain system is somewhat reminiscent of the action hand brake, which is often equipped with a bicycle handlebar

There is no need to immerse your hand in water to open the drain. Just turn the handle located on the side of the bathtub. It will activate the cable, when tensioned, the plug will lower, and when loosened, it will rise above the drain hole.

A significant disadvantage of such a semi-automatic system is that it is easy to break. But this applies more to low-quality products of Chinese counterfeits.

The easiest way to protect yourself from such trouble is to choose products from trusted manufacturers who guarantee high quality the products they produce.

The operating principle of the semi-automatic overflow system is clearly presented in the video:

Automatic systems

Drain plug at automatic system has a special design. It is equipped with a spring and a lock, making it easy to open and close when pressed.

While in the bathroom, to close the drain, just press the plug with your foot; pressing again will have the opposite effect, automatically unlocking the plug

If you need to drain the water, but you are not in the bathroom, you will have to “dive” with your hand and press the stopper located at the bottom of the bowl.

Choosing an automatic model can be the best solution when connecting a bathtub in which, for some reason, it is not possible to install a mixer. In this case, the water supply pipes are connected directly to the overflow: hot water will flow into the bowl through the top hole.

Quite often, bathtubs for bathing children are equipped with an “automatic” system: by pressing the valve button, it is easy to empty the container without turning it over. When choosing which bath overflow drain is best, give preference to products from well-established manufacturers such as Grohe or Geberit.

Cheap automatic harnesses suffer from the fact that the plug in them often breaks, which can only be repaired by completely disassembling the harness.

Video: operating principle of the “automatic” drain system

How to install the system yourself?

The installation principle of both a simple siphon and a semi-automatic system is almost the same.

The system is installed after the bathtub is installed in a permanent place and leveled; the distance from the floor to the drain hole must be at least 15 cm

The installation technology includes a number of main stages:

• Removing the old siphon and thoroughly cleaning the connections and the inside of the pipe.
• Installation of the lower overflow. Place a gasket on the end of the lower overflow pipe and place it against the drain hole. At the same time, another pad is applied to the hole on top. A screw is inserted into it, carefully tightening it. The cone-shaped gasket is placed with the thin edge towards the end of the pipe, and the thick edge towards the nut. By installing the gasket the other way around, you will get a weak seal, leaving yourself open to leaks. After making sure that the connection is correct, hold the bottom overflow pipe with one hand, and tighten the screw with the other hand.
• Installation of the top overflow. The top overflow is attached in the same way. To facilitate the installation process to the drain neck, craftsmen recommend directing the pipe not vertically downwards, but moving it slightly to the side closer to you.
• Connection between drain and overflow. For this purpose, it is convenient to use a corrugated hose, which easily bends to the desired position. When using nuts to seal connections, do not forget to install gaskets on them, placing the thin ends towards the necks.
• Installation of a water seal. Before attaching the water seal to the neck, it is necessary to inspect the places for installing gaskets, “cleaning” with a file all casting defects and burrs. The water seal of all siphon models without exception is connected to the neck using a union nut, complemented by a conical or flat gasket.
• Connection of the siphon to the sewer system. Depending on the type of model, the connection is made directly into the socket, or through a sealing collar. All connections made are securely sealed. Since rubber gaskets have a short service life, for greater system reliability, all connections should be additionally treated with silicone sealant.

If the size of the siphon outlet does not match the diameter of the sewer pipe, use adapters: for metal structures, fittings measuring 73 by 40, and for plastic ones - 40 by 50

Having connected the elements, all that remains is to check the quality of the assembly. To do this, cover the drain with a stopper, open cold water and fill the bath.

With the plug closed, inspect the drain and connections: if no leaks appear, then you can safely use the bathtub. The easiest way to detect leaks is to cover the floor with paper, on which drops of flowing water will quickly appear.

If a leak is detected, try tightening the nuts. When joining elements, follow the rule: if something is stretched and the thread “does not go,” it means it will leak.

One of the most common reasons is misalignment that occurs due to an incorrectly fitted rigid liner, or normal installation is interfered with by the foam used to insulate the bathtub.

If you follow the technology, there should be no difficulties with installing plumbing.

When working with plastic elements, you should be extremely careful, since if you apply excessive pressure while tightening the screws, the housing may simply burst

During operation, semi-automatic and automatic overflow systems require maintenance. To maintain the original shine, external metal parts must be periodically treated with non-abrasive cleaning compounds or glass cleaners.

Internal structural elements should be inspected from time to time for leaks. If depressurization is detected, it is necessary to tighten the connection or change the sealing gaskets.

Repairing plumbing in a home is considered by many to be a very troublesome and unpleasant task. Sometimes even calling a plumber turns into a problem. But in fact, many problems can be fixed on your own.

Bathroom plumbing connection diagram.

Let's consider the issue of repairing the water drain in the bathroom. It is necessary to repair the drain in two cases:

1. Water leakage at the bathroom drain.
2. Water does not drain well from the bathroom.

Eliminating water leaks at the drainage point

If your bathtub is leaking, you need to first find out the reason.

Such a nuisance can happen due to depressurization of the siphon or its failure (for example, a crack). If the siphon, or, as it is also called, the piping, does not work for long and is in good condition, then the problem of water leakage can be eliminated by simply replacing the gaskets. In this case, it is advisable to also use a sealant.

Often the cause of a leak is that the upper part of the drain is “loose” and the resulting gap allows water to pass through. In this case, you just need to unscrew the siphon mount and apply sealant to the joints of the parts. Currently, silicone sealants specifically designed for plumbing systems have appeared on the market. We can recommend, for example, Silicone-915 or KI Meg Silicone E sealant. They dry quickly enough (10-20 minutes) and do not lose their properties as with low temperatures, and high, up to 150ºС, are not susceptible to fungus.

Siphon diagram.

When applying sealants, you must adhere to the following rules. The surfaces to which the sealant is applied must be dry, clean, and free of mechanical damage. Metal surfaces must be degreased. The width of the sealing seam can be 6…35 mm wide. You can level the seam and seal it within 5 minutes immediately after application. After complete hardening, you can remove the unevenness, carefully trim off the excess, being careful not to damage the seam itself. All work should be performed with rubber gloves, avoiding contact of the sealant with the skin.

If the visible part of the drain is not damaged, is well strengthened, but still flows from under the bathtub, then in this case it is better to replace the trim with a new one. When choosing new system“drain/overflow” you need to consider what material your bathtub is made of. Some siphons are designed only for thin-walled plumbing equipment.

When installing a new harness, you must first completely assemble it by hand, and last of all, attach it in assembled form to the drain and overflow holes.

Bathroom drains slowly

The main reasons for poor drainage are as follows:

• clogged drain pipe;
• the slope of the drainage system is too small;
• The diameter of the drain pipe or riser is insufficient.

If the water coming out of the bathroom is worse than before, then most likely you have a blockage. If the drain worsens slightly, you can use a good old plunger or clean the system with chemicals. This is the easiest way to remove clogged drains. But you need to remember that these products can only deal with minor blockages. In cases where the water drains very slowly or does not drain at all, these products cannot be used.

You can clear the blockage by disassembling and washing the siphon (sump) or by cleaning the entire drain pipe to the riser with a cable. In some cases, removing the blockage requires dismantling the entire drain system under the bathtub, cleaning and flushing it. This happens in cases where, for example, repairs have recently been made and solutions and suspensions have been poured into the sewer. In this case, the settled particles severely clog the pipes and have to be knocked out.

A common reason for poor drainage in a bathroom is that the slope of the sewer pipes is too small. Look at how your drain works. If the slope is too small or there is no slope at all, then this is the reason that the water drains slowly. In this case, you should not use chemicals to remove blockages.

What should the outlet slope be for the drain to work properly? The exact slope values ​​are determined by calculations that take into account the volume of wastewater, pipe diameters and some other indicators. But, guided by practical experience, you can adhere to the following generalized values: with a sewer pipe diameter of 100 mm, the minimum slope should be 2%; with a pipe diameter of 50 mm, the slope must be at least 3%. For reference, we add that a slope of 2% is a decrease in the pipe by 2 cm through every meter of the pipeline.

To increase the slope of the drainage system, you can simply lower the outlet into the central riser or raise the bathtub itself. Too large a slope is undesirable, as this can lead to gradual clogging of the pipes with heavy sediments, and also cause the effect of “bubbling” water when draining. The relevant building codes state that the maximum sewer drainage slope can be up to 15%.

The installation of a drain in the bathroom is carried out so that the water collected in it does not pour out over the edges of the bathing structure, as well as to prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer into the bathroom. It is possible to carry out such an operation with your own hands.

A plumbing siphon - this is what the drain and overflow system in a bathroom is usually called, consists of five main elements. These include:

1. A drain neck consisting of two parts - upper and lower. The first is made in the form of a cup, the second is a pipe with a nut and a special extension. These parts are connected to each other with a screw. A mandatory part of the neck, which is installed at the bottom of the bathtub, is the gasket. It plays the role of a seal.
2. Overflow neck. It has a design similar to a drain. The only difference is the presence of a side rather than a direct outlet for water. When the font is overfilled with water, the overflow neck removes the last of it from the bowl.
3. Directly siphon. There is always some amount of water in it. Typically the siphon is made in the form of a curved, removable pipe, although it can have a different configuration. This element prevents sewer odors from entering the bathroom. In the language of professionals, it is called a water seal.
4. Hose (corrugated). It connects the siphon and the overflow. The purpose of the hose is to ensure the drainage of water from the valve. Sometimes the corrugated product is sealed with a crimp-type nut equipped with a gasket. But in most cases, the hose is simply pulled onto brushes - special types of pipes.
5. Corrugated or rigid pipe connecting sewer system and siphon. Products with corrugation have an adjustable length; connecting them with your own hands to the drain and overflow system in the bathroom is very convenient. With a rigid pipe there is more hassle during installation. But it is distinguished by higher operational reliability.

Bathroom drain and overflow system

As you can see, the drain installed in the bathtub is quite simple. Its individual parts are sealed together with conical or sealing gaskets and a union nut. These elements can be installed correctly by any home craftsman, without resorting to professional plumbers.

The bathroom systems we are interested in can be semi-automatic or automatic. The first type of drain has a small cable. It serves as a connector between the drain plug and the overflow device. Semi-automatic draining is used simply. When you need to open its hole, pull the cable and thereby lift the plug. Water from the font rushes into the sewer pipes.

A semi-automatic drain is inexpensive, looks quite attractive in appearance, and even a child can operate it correctly without any extra effort. The only disadvantage of this design is that the cable that lifts the plug may break with frequent use. However, this problem is inherent exclusively to inexpensive mechanisms. Automatic draining is structurally more complex. It functions differently. To lift the cork, you need to press on it. And the automation itself will open the entrance to the drain hole! The mechanism that provides this opportunity is mounted in the plug itself. The disadvantage of the system is the need to bend down to the bottom of the bath to press the lid.

Semi-automatic drain

IN Lately Another type of automatic drainage with a special filling device is also actively used. Its installation is recommended for hot tubs without a mixer. This mechanism connects to the overflow. This allows you to draw water into the bathtub using an overflow device. Drain-overflow systems are made of metal and chrome-plated brass, as well as polyethylene and different types polypropylene. Metal products are short-lived in use. Now they are practically not used.

Systems made of brass, polyethylene and polypropylene are ideal for the bathroom. They are not afraid of hard and salty water, do not rust or rot with prolonged use.

The most expensive is the brass siphon. He looks great. It is used when they want to create a special interior in the bathroom. But according to some indicators (in particular, the level of resistance to mechanical loads), brass products are inferior to cheaper and at the same time more resistant polypropylene and plastic structures.

To install the siphon correctly and quickly with your own hands, you need to stock up on a regular flashlight and a set of screwdrivers. You will also need silicone-based sealant, plastic pipes and 40–50 mm sewer pipes. Replacing the overflow system begins with dismantling the old mechanism and thoroughly cleaning the sewer pipe (its internal part). If the wiring in the bathroom is done, you will not have any problems with cleaning them.

The situation is more complicated with pipe products made of cast iron. They are connected to the pipe using cement mortar. It's not that easy to break it. You will have to arm yourself with a chisel and a hammer and beat off the cement. Note! Cast iron pipes only appear massive in appearance. In reality they are quite fragile. They can be split with too strong and sharp blow of a chisel. Therefore, special care must be taken when cleaning cast iron products. And do not forget to thoroughly clean the smallest crumbs of the cement mixture from the pipes after disconnecting the pipe. Otherwise, you will be guaranteed a blockage.

Connecting a bathtub drain to a cast iron pipe

Now you can safely install a new drain in the bathtub. Carry out the work as follows:

1. Place the rubber pad into the bottom overflow and move it with one hand to the drain hole from below. Place the top gasket with your second hand, install and secure the product with a screw. You can just bait it first and then tighten it with a screwdriver. It's important not to overdo it here. Polypropylene and polyethylene products are quite likely to burst if you tighten the screw too much.
2. Install the upper neck (overflow) into the bathtub in a similar manner. Experts recommend pointing its pipe slightly to the side, and not straight down. This is done to facilitate the connection of this element to the drain neck.
3. Connect the overflow and drain with a corrugated hose. Important point. A long hose must be carefully bent and not shortened. The corrugation bends at any angle without any problems. You won't have any difficulties.
4. Connect the siphon under the bathtub to the overflow neck. And then connect the pipe or corrugated hose to the mounted structure.
5. Insert the water seal through the sealing cuff or directly into the socket of the sewer pipe.

Siphon replacement completed! All you have to do is make sure that you did everything correctly. Close the bathtub drain with a stopper and fill the bathtub with water. The absence of leaks when the lid is closed tells us that the plumbing siphon was assembled well. Then open the plug and see if there are any leaks in other parts of the system. If everything is fine, feel free to use the bathroom with the new siphon that you installed yourself.

If there is a leak at any of the connections of the mounted mechanism, you will have to slightly modify the system: eliminate the distortion of the water seal elements (most often it occurs when the font is blown in with foam); Tighten the screws and nuts tightly. After these steps everything will be fine. Enjoy your bath!

Are you faced with the fact that you don’t know how to install a drain in the bathroom? In the minds of many people, only a professional plumber with a large number of tools can perform such work. However, not everything is as complicated as it might seem. After reading the material presented, you will understand that installing a drain can be done with your own hands.

Siphons can be different heights. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is measure the distance from the bottom of the bath to the floor. It must be at least 15 cm. If the bathtub has not yet been installed, then you need to install it and secure it firmly - it should not move.

What is this device

How to install a drain in a bathroom? For a person who is not familiar with this kind of terminology, such a question can only raise additional questions; in fact, this means that a special siphon with an outlet for connecting the overflow will be installed in the bathroom. This is exactly what we will talk about, but first you need to understand the structure and operating principle of this device.

Siphon operating principle

Regardless of the design, the drain is equipped with a siphon, in which there must always be water, and if it evaporates or the water seal fails, then unpleasant odors from the sewer pipe will enter the room. To prevent this from happening, a drain pipe or vacuum valve must be installed.

If the reason for installing a new drain is that it smells bad, then you need to determine whether the siphon is to blame.

Bath drain device

Having decided to purchase the simplest modern bathtub drain, you will be faced with the fact that instead of the device shown in the picture, you will be given a bag with a bunch of plastic parts. Don't be afraid! If not you, then your children or grandchildren assembled Lego. You can be sure that assembling the siphon is much easier and faster.

How to assemble

So, the siphon was purchased and delivered home. To ensure that no part is lost, you need to open the package and lay out the contents on a wide table, or better yet, on the floor. Carefully inspect every detail to ensure there is no flaw. Check whether the threaded parts connect freely.

Branded siphons are packed in a cardboard box and complete with detailed instructions on assembly. Defective parts are almost never found.

It is unlikely that you will be able to find thorough assembly instructions there - at best, a small drawing of a siphon. Since there are not as many parts as it might seem, it will not be difficult to find its place for each. What is worth paying close attention to is which side to install the rubber seals. The fact is that they are cone-shaped. There is one rule for installing these rubber bands - the narrow part is towards the neck, and the wide part is towards the nut, which is clearly visible in the figure (shown by brown arrows). You should not immediately crimp all connections, as local adjustments may be required.

Drain installation

After assembling the drain, you need to install it in the bathtub.

• First of all, you need to check if there are any pieces of the old gasket or any adhering debris left. The landing area must be clean and smooth (both inside and outside the bath). If this is not the case, then installation cannot be performed until the problem is resolved.
• The lower part of the siphon has a wide neck with a lower part from the inside - this is a seat for the gasket (shown by the blue arrow). If the length of the arms allows, then further installation can be performed without an assistant. The siphon with the gasket placed on it is brought under the lower hole of the bathtub and held in this position.
• From inside the bathtub, check that the bottom gasket has not moved to the side.
• A gasket is placed on the drain hole (the green arrow points to it), the top cover with the grill is installed and screwed on. In modern models, fixation is carried out with a copper screw; in older models, the lid is threaded and screwed directly into the siphon.

• In the same way, the overflow hole is tied and connected to the siphon using a flexible hose with pre-installed nuts and cone washers.
• The next step is to connect to the sewer. Generally, when connected to PVC sewer pipes there are no problems, but in order to make a connection with a cast iron pipe, you will have to purchase a rubber coupling of a suitable size.
• Having crimped all connections, you need to check if there are any leaks. This is done simply - water is drawn into the bathtub, and you need to look under the bathtub. Then you need to close the plug and check if drops of water appear from below when the bath fills up a little. The final step will be to check the tightness of the overflow installation. To do this, you need to draw water until it flows into the siphon through the overflow.

Is it dry under the bathtub? Then the installation of the siphon is completed successfully.

Plastic parts are not very durable, so you don’t need to put much effort into fixing them. Having discovered a leak, disassemble the connection and, lubricating the gasket with plumbing silicone, reassemble.

Now let's look at what an automatic drain and overflow is and how to install it correctly.

It is important to take into account that among these devices there are models in which the drain is controlled differently.

1. Automatic drain and overflow.
2. Semi-automatic drain and overflow.

It would be wrong to say that one is easy to use and the other is not, since they are structurally different. Therefore, everyone chooses the drainage mechanism at their own discretion.

If we talk about cheap models, then the automatic overflow will not last long. Since it cannot be repaired, the entire device will soon have to be replaced again.

Installation of a semi-automatic siphon

Semi-automatic siphons (as well as automatic ones) can be made from:

• sanitary plastic;
• brass;
• copper;
• chrome steel;
• silumin.

Silumin siphon is the worst choice. Not only can it break during installation, but after a while it can simply fall apart. Products made of copper, brass and chrome-plated steel can be called durable, but due to their high cost they are not in great demand.

Products made from sanitary plastic are stronger than silumin siphons and more durable, since they are not afraid of aggressive environments. A significant role in the popularity of plastic products is played by their low cost and ease of installation. As for the assembly, the process is not much more complicated than installing an ordinary plastic drain and overflow, and differs only in that instead of grilles you need to install controls, as shown in the diagram above.

Installation of an automatic siphon

Installing an automatic drain is even easier than a semi-automatic one, since there is no need to install controls - the entire mechanism is at the bottom of the siphon.

If the automatic drain also provides for the supply of water to the bowl, then such a device must be installed by a representative of the company, otherwise, from the moment you complete the installation yourself, the manufacturer will cease to fulfill the warranty conditions. To put it simply, it will not be repaired or replaced under warranty.

The purchased drainage system must be convenient and reliable, which must be taken care of in advance. When making a choice, it is important to pay attention to the following:

• The drain mechanism can be controlled by a valve, button or handle. Decide in advance and firmly decide which mechanism will suit you and be most convenient. If it’s hard to imagine, then you can go to a plumbing store and ask the seller to show different models.
• If you purchase a metal drain-overflow system, you definitely need to find out what metal it is made of. Some manufacturers of silumin products spray them and in appearance they are very similar to brass products.
• A white bathtub will harmonize with any colors of siphon lids. The main thing is that there is no clutter and disharmony with the style of the room.
• Automatic or semi-automatic? Don’t rush to make a decision just after hearing the word machine. The method of draining is fundamentally different. In an automatic system, in order to activate the drain mechanism, you need to apply force to the lid covering the drain hole. If you need to drain the water while taking a bath, then there is no problem. The semi-automatic system controls the drainage system from the outside.
• When choosing a semi-automatic system, it is important to pay attention to the location of the control cable - it can be either outside or inside the overflow pipe. The last option for the cable arrangement is more aesthetic, but cannot be repaired.

Installing a siphon on a bathtub yourself is not difficult. You must follow the advice from the instructions provided for assembling and installing a specific equipment model.

Video

This video shows how to assemble a simple bath siphon:

See how to replace a bathtub trim:

Photo