All about modern electric heating systems for roofs, roofing and gutters. Video of the installation process

Since the temperature regulator allows you to save more than 25% of electricity and at the same time make heating as efficient as possible, in this article we will consider the rules for connecting an infrared heater through a thermostat. Electrical installation work is very simple, and now you will see it.

Required tools and materials

In order to quickly and easily install an infrared heater on the ceiling, you will need the following tools:

1. Drill or screwdriver (drill holes for fastenings).
2. Pliers (for shortening wires).
3. Indicator screwdriver (determine phase and zero).
4. Metal detector (optional, used to search for wiring and metal objects in the wall, so as not to accidentally hit these objects when drilling holes. You can do it yourself using improvised means.
5. A simple pencil and a construction tape (mark the mounting points on the wall).

Concerning additional materials, then to install and connect the infrared heater you may need:

1. Demountable electrical plug.
2. Three-core copper cable, cross-section 2.5 mm2.
3. Wall mounts (purchased as needed, as only ceiling brackets are included in the kit).

Having collected all necessary list materials and tools, you can proceed to fastening and connecting the heater..

Main process

Hanging the case

First you need to determine the installation location of the infrared heater in the house (or apartment). As we said above, the housing can be placed both on the ceiling and on the walls, depending on the individual preferences of the owners.

The first thing you need to do is mark out the mounting locations yourself. To do this, use a tape measure to measure the same distance from the ceiling to the selected area. It is also recommended to use a building level, with which you can level the brackets in a horizontal plane.

After marking, proceed to drilling. If the ceiling (or wall) is made of wood, drill holes with a drill. If you have to deal with concrete, you cannot do without a hammer drill. You need to drive dowels into the created holes and screw in the brackets, after which you can install the infrared heater in its place.

Please note that the design of the unit varies. Some products have guides that are fixed into brackets. A simpler option is chains attached to the ceiling (special holders attach to them). Also on the market you can see infrared heaters on a leg, which are simply placed on the floor.

Electric installation work

As we said at the beginning, the process of connecting an infrared heater to the network will be carried out using a temperature controller.

First you need to connect the contacts of the collapsible electrical plug to the thermostat terminal blocks, which are installed in the product body. Each “socket” has its own designation: N – zero, L – phase. It should be noted that there are at least two of both zero and phase terminals (from the network to the regulator and from the regulator to the heater). Everything is quite simple - you strip the wires, insert them into the seats until they click (or tighten the screws). Be sure to ensure that the connection is correct.

For your attention here are the correct connection diagrams:

As you can see, connecting an infrared heater through a thermostat is quite simple, the main thing is not to mix up the wires and tightly tighten them in the terminal blocks.

A very important point is making the right choice regulator location. You should not install the product next to a heater, because in this case, the incoming warm air will negatively affect the accuracy of the measurements. It is best to place the device in a more distant area, at a height of one and a half meters above the floor.

Also note that you need to install the controller in the coldest room, otherwise the problem will not be completely solved. As for the number of infrared devices served by one temperature controller, it all depends on the power of the heaters. Typically, one 3 kW controller is used for several products, with a total power of no more than 2.5 kW (so that there is a reserve of at least 15%).

What kind of service is this?

The built-in installation of a heated seat kit is practically a factory option for heated seats. It will not dangle around the seat as in the case of a cape, and “get off” it. The set will not be felt through the seat upholstery, will not be visible at all, and will work reliably. The heating system will not be plugged into the cigarette lighter like a heated seat cover. And the heating of the car seats will be carried out with protection, and you will ultimately get a very comfortable and useful function in the cold season, worthy of having a place in every modern car.

We use proven heating kits and provide a 1 year warranty on the system. It should be noted that installation of heated seats is made using a standard installation kit, which includes a heating element made of carbon material placed between two layers of woven material. It has a high degree of strength as well as good flexibility. The delivery set also includes an electronics unit that provides automatic blocking when short circuit systems. The system is monitored and controlled in four-channel mode using convenient control buttons.

The car owner himself chooses the desired mode, especially since it is possible installation of heated rear seats separate from the heated driver's seat. The installation kit comes with the appropriate mounting hardware, a protection relay and a whole bundle of wires, which only experienced electricians can handle. By ordering the service of a mobile electrician, you will be able to avoid additional costs of time and money for dismantling and re-installation if it is carried out incorrectly. self-installation. This service is cheap, and a mobile electrician will save the car owner up to 30% compared to a dealer network of services.

Keep in mind

Installation of heated seats adds comfort to everyone in the car dealership. Warmth is especially beneficial female body, but men should not turn on the heating in constant mode. Of course, heat is therapeutic for osteochondrosis and radiculitis, but it is undesirable for the reproductive sphere of the male body.

Covers made of fabric materials, as well as velor or leatherette, warm up the best. Leather upholstery is more demanding and has a higher heat loss coefficient. It requires a more powerful heating element, which an electrician will select individually.

How important is it

Before installing the kit, be sure to evenly distribute the heating element and secure it properly to avoid displacement during operation. This is especially important for overweight drivers. The electrician should also check the system for a safety sensor that can automatically shut down the system in the event of a danger. High quality installation of heated seats price The issue is minimal, and the benefits are obvious to everyone.

Sooner or later, developers or future homeowners have to face one of the most troubling issues: how to choose the right heating system. There are quite a lot of options for arranging a heating system, but increasingly, owners of new buildings deliberately choose electric infrared heaters and convectors for heating. Unlike bulky water and gas heaters, using electrical appliances is much easier and cheaper. You just need to choose the right layout and install an infrared heater in each room of the house. Nothing complicated at first glance, but there are certain nuances in installation and use.

How does an infrared indoor heater work?

Most of the emitting infrared heaters has a universal mount on the body that can hold light weight on any surface - on the wall, on the ceiling, and even on remote ceiling rods and consoles. The power of a radiant heater, depending on the design, model and heating element used, can range from 0.8 kW to 2.5 kW.

The main problem that arises when choosing a scheme, where and how to install an infrared heater, is associated with the high concentration of radiant energy in the flow. It's like being near a fire - the closer you are to the hot surface, the stronger the thermal effect. True, the density of the radiant flux produced by an infrared heater decreases quadratically. At a distance of three meters, the thermal effect is four times less than at a distance of a meter from an infrared coil or ceramic panel.

When installing the heater, we observe the following restrictions:

• The distance of maximum comfort from the heater for low-power devices of 700-800 W is only 70 cm; for 1300-2000 W, the distance from the heater radiation surface to the face, as the most sensitive part of the body, should be at least 130-150 cm;
• If you need to use an infrared heater to warm a room in which people spend quite a long time in almost one position, the distance from the plane of installation of the device to open parts of the body - hands and face - should be at least 2 m for a 1.5 kilowatt heater;
• For cases where it is planned to install several infrared heating devices in a room, each heater should be directed to its own blind zone, without crossing flows or directing radiating elements on the same directory.

For powerful heaters, they traditionally choose to install them in a corner on swivel brackets, which allow you to adjust the angle of inclination of the reflective mirror of the infrared heater. The best effect is achieved when radiant heaters are installed on the ceiling. It turns out to be the antipode of a warm floor. The ceiling scheme allows you to maximally level the heat flow in the room, just as fluorescent lamps create uniform lighting.

Important! The thermal energy of an infrared emitter of several hundred watts in concentrated form can heat objects to a high temperature, so there should be no plastic, paper or fabric objects in the immediate vicinity, at a distance of 60-70 cm from the heater.

Otherwise, warping or burning out of the surface is possible, and in case of very close proximity or contact, partial destruction of the material is possible.

Optimal location of the heater

Of course, radiation alone, even from the most powerful heater, cannot guarantee to warm up every corner of the room; you still cannot do without convection. Only warm air moving under the influence of the ventilation flow is able to equalize the temperature and evenly warm the entire room.

Different rooms have their own, most optimal scheme heater settings:

• For a bedroom, the most convenient and effective would be to place the infrared heater at the maximum height above the head of the sofa or bed, so that 2/3 of the surface is located in the shadow of the heat flow;
• For the kitchen and living room, the heater is installed so that the heat flow of infrared radiation is directed to the window sill, the place where cold air flows into the room;
• In hallways and corridors, the heater is installed on the ceiling with the vertical direction of infrared radiation down to the floor. The heat emitter has a truly unique ability to quickly dry the floor and remove drops and residual moisture brought into the room from the street on shoes and outerwear. To avoid damaging shoes, they must be removed from the heat flow of the heater in a timely manner.

In addition, it is necessary to correctly calculate the height of the heater ceiling suspension. For the ceiling in the hallway, the best option would be to place the heater in the center; with a standard ceiling height of 250 cm, only people 170-175 cm tall will feel comfortable under an infrared heater with a power of 700 W.

Therefore, when planning the installation of infrared heaters, you will need to make the ceilings in the hallway 260-270 cm high, or instead of one device, use two low-power 500 W heaters so that it doesn’t get too hot. You can see the features of this installation in the video:

We install the heater ourselves

The simplest and most effective installation method involves placing the heating device on the ceiling of the room. The chassis is suspended in the following order:

• At the short ends of the case, it is necessary to unscrew the screws and remove the covers; the suspension brackets are inserted into the slots and secured with a latch;
• The installation locations of anchor hooks are marked according to the distance between the brackets on the ceiling;
• Using the markings, holes are drilled in the ceiling slab, plugs are hammered in and the suspension hooks are screwed in.

Before fixing the infrared heater, you will need to lay the wiring from the electrical input panel to the thermostat installation location and then to the heater. Ceiling structures are rarely equipped with built-in thermostats, so the box responsible for controlling the heating process is placed at a height of 1.6-1.7 m near the entrance to the room according to the above diagram.

To connect an infrared heater, you will need to strip the ends of the wires and secure them in chips according to the diagram given in the product passport or pasted on inside covers. All that remains is to connect the wiring to a separate package on the panel, and you can put the infrared heater into action.

Digital thermostats allow you to control the temperature in your room with high precision. But in practice, infrared devices have a slight heating inertia. For example, by setting the room temperature on the device to 22 o C, the heater will actually raise it half a degree or a degree higher, since the hot radiating spiral or heater panel continues to heat the air by inertia for another 5-7 minutes after the thermostat cuts off the power.

Does it make sense to get involved with infrared heaters?

There are approximately the same number of fans and ardent critics of heating residential premises using infrared radiation installations. It is worth recognizing that, despite the fierce criticism of fans of water heating, the idea of ​​​​using electric infrared heaters is becoming increasingly popular.

Radiant electric heaters have their own rather interesting advantages:

• Versatility. The infrared heater can be installed on any surface, at any angle, without restrictions on height and method of fastening;
• Locality of heating. An infrared emitter allows you to organize heating of part of the room, even if it is not possible to limit the loss of warm air;
• Easy to install. It is enough to correctly lay the electrical wiring to the places where the heaters are installed, connect the input to the house and a meter designed for increased power consumption of electricity;
• Low inertia of infrared heaters. Heating of the room stops 10 minutes after the electric heater is turned off;
• Opportunity smooth adjustment and precise dosage of room heating.

For your information! Due to the very small thermal inertia of infrared heaters, the air temperature in the room can be adjusted with an accuracy of half a degree; it is enough to install digital or even mechanical thermostats.

Of course, similar options for maintaining the air temperature in a house or apartment at a given level can be implemented using heated floors or electric convectors, but in both cases, good results can only be achieved in closed rooms, when there are no drafts or passage rooms.

Practice once again proves that the use of radiant devices makes it possible to heat a room no less efficiently than when using convectors or water and oil radiators. In this case, it is important to choose correct scheme and a way to install an infrared heater.

Conventional electric water-oil heaters and radiators, regardless of the installation scheme, heat the air by convection:

• Most of the heat-transfer surface is covered with a casing or screen to improve, according to the developers, the flow of air to the spirals or tubular sections;
• In some designs, convection electric heaters simply unsuccessfully copy the shape of cast-iron central heating radiators;
• Such heater designs are designed for installation in window sill niches, where warm air mixes with the flow of cold air from the ventilation valve and spreads well throughout the room. In all other cases, the efficiency and economy of air heaters is significantly lower than that of infrared heaters.

Important! There are quite a lot comparative tests, measuring heating output, but the most reliable data shows a difference between infrared heaters and convectors by almost 18%.

In addition, infrared heaters are practically insensitive to the position of the housing, whereas for a convector, manufacturers require installation only in a vertical position, with an inclination angle of at least 4-7 degrees.

Low temperature infrared heaters

The most frequently criticized disadvantage of an infrared heater is related to the high temperature of the radiating surface. Most often, a spiral or ceramic panel heats up to 300-500 o C, which can cause drying of the air in the room.

Relatively recently, so-called cold or low-temperature heaters began to be used for heating. New infrared heaters look like ordinary square facing slabs measuring 60 cm or 50 cm. The smooth heating surface is made of polymer ceramics; on the reverse side there may be a protective grille or a plastic panel covering the heating element.

Such heaters heat up to a temperature of 90-95 o C, so even with prolonged contact with fabric, curtains or furniture there is no damage. Installation of such an infrared heater can be done almost anywhere, but preferably no closer than 40-50 cm to open parts of the body, you can use the advice in the video:

The most important thing is that the room heating efficiency of such a heater is approximately 20-25% higher than in comparison with vaunted convectors and oil radiators.

Conclusion

For example: heating an ordinary apartment with an area of ​​55-60 m2, without external thermal insulation, with the installation of infrared heaters will cost approximately 25-30% less than conventional water central heating, video The cost of using convectors is approximately comparable to central heating, and the use of an electric boiler costs 10-15% more. If you add a two-tariff meter to infrared devices, then the practical benefit from installing a heater will increase by another 10%, provided that the walls of the house are well insulated.

In early spring and late autumn, all homeowners are faced with the problem of freezing roof slopes and freezing melt water inside gutters. If it is not resolved in a timely manner, the safety of people, as well as the safety of their property, will be threatened by large icicles and frozen lumps of snow falling from the roof.

A good solution is to heat the gutters, which will prevent the formation of ice. In this material we will talk about why you need to equip your drainage system with heating. We will also talk about what materials are required for this and describe in detail the essence of the process.

During the winter months, frost and heavy rainfall prevail in most regions of our country. As a result, large amounts of snow accumulate on the roof. An increase in temperature provokes first their thawing, and later active thawing.

During the day, melted water runs down the edges of the roof and into the gutters. At night it freezes, which leads to the gradual destruction of roofing elements and gutters.

This picture is typical for the off-season. If you don't take action, ice and snow will fall to the ground. In this case, the facade, gutters, and cars parked below may be damaged.

Icicles and a conglomerate of frozen snow and ice accumulate at the edges of the roof. From time to time they fall down, threatening the safety of people below and their property, the integrity of the drainage system and the decorative elements of the facade.

All these troubles can be prevented only by ensuring the unhindered drainage of melted water. This is only possible if the edges of the roof are heated and.

It happens that in order to reduce the cost of a heating system, it is laid only on the roof surface. The owner is fully confident that this will be quite enough.

However, it is not. The water will flow into gutters and pipes where it will freeze at the end of the day because there is no heating. The gutters will be clogged with ice, therefore they will not be able to accept melt water. In addition, there is a danger of mechanical damage.

Thus, in order to get a good result, you should arrange heating for the roof and the surrounding gutters. In most cases, the heating cable is mounted on roof eaves, inside gutters and funnels, at the joints of roof fragments, along valley lines.

In addition, heating must be present along the entire length of drainpipes, in catch basins and drainage trays.

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Heating system calculation

Experts advise choosing cables with a power of at least 25-30 W per meter for heating the roof and gutters. You need to know that both types of heating cables are used for other purposes. For arranging heated floors, for example, but their power is much lower.

Before you begin calculating power, you need to decide how all elements of the system will be heated. The figure shows examples of possible organization of heating gutters and drains

Power consumption is estimated in active mode. This is the period when the system operates at maximum load. It lasts in total from 11 to 33% of the entire cold period, which conventionally lasts from mid-November to mid-March. These are average values, they are different for each area. The power of the system needs to be calculated.

To determine it, you need to know the parameters of the drainage system.

Let us give an example of calculations for a standard design with a cross-section of a vertical drain of 80-100 mm, a gutter pipe diameter of 120-150 mm.

• It is necessary to accurately measure the lengths of all gutters for water drainage and add up the resulting values.
• The result must be multiplied by two. This is the length of the cable that will be laid along the horizontal section of the heating system.
• The length of all vertical drains is measured. The resulting values ​​are added together.
• The length of the vertical section of the system is equal to the total length of the gutters, since in this case one cable line will be sufficient.
• The calculated lengths of both sections of the heating system are added together.
• The result obtained is multiplied by 25. The result is the electric heating power in active mode.

Such calculations are considered approximate. Everything can be calculated more accurately if you use a special calculator on one of the Internet sites. If independent calculations are difficult, it is worth inviting a specialist.

Choosing a place to lay the cable

Actually, the heating system for gutters is not that complicated, but in order for it to work as efficiently as possible, the cable should be laid in all areas where ice forms and in places where melted snow melts.

In roof valleys, the cable is installed down and up, extending over two-thirds of the valley. Minimum - 1 m from the beginning of the overhang. For every square meter of valley there should be 250-300 W of power.

On flat areas of the roof, heating is installed for the roof fragment located directly in front of the catchment area. This way, melt water will freely flow into the pipe.

Along the edge of the cornice, the wire is laid in the form of a snake. The snake pitch for soft roofs is 35-40 cm; on hard roofs it is made a multiple of the pattern. The length of the loops is chosen in such a way that there are no cold zones on the heated surface, otherwise ice will form here. The cable is laid on the water separation line along the drip line. This can be 1-3 threads, the choice is made based on the design of the system.

The heating cable is installed inside the gutters. Usually two threads are laid here, the power is selected depending on the diameter of the gutter. One heating core is laid inside the gutters. Particular attention should be paid to pipe outlets and funnels. This usually requires additional heating.

Heating system technology

We suggest you study detailed instructions for installing a heating system for roofs and gutters with your own hands. The process of installing a heating system for gutters includes a number of standard steps:

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During the cold season, it often happens that water pipes and drainage systems freeze. To avoid a decrease in functionality, it is necessary to heat the gutters, their funnels and gutters.

Reasons for the appearance of crust

If the sewerage system and water drainage from the roof is installed according to the rules, then there is a very low probability that the water in it will freeze. To avoid this process, the slope of the pipes, their volume and fill factor are calculated. But if there is a sharp change in temperature or precipitation significantly exceeds standard level, then the drains may overflow with liquid. It does not have time to immediately leave the guide pipes and, as a result, begins to freeze in them. Over time, an ice plug forms at the site of icing, which can only be removed by warming it up.

Photo – frozen drain

Why is the roof frozen?

1. Temperature difference between the roof and eaves. Often in private houses with an attic roof, winter heating of the attic space is installed. Because of it, the roofing pie heats up, and melt water begins to drain from it. But at the same time, there is no heating on the eaves, and when liquid enters this zone, it freezes, forming an ice build-up;
2. You have incorrectly calculated the diameter or angle of the pipes. These are very important parameters on which the efficiency of gutters depends. If the communications are installed incorrectly, then the water will not have time to flow through the pipes, which will cause icing;
3. Natural reasons. In late autumn there is often some range between night and day temperatures. It is also one of the main causes of icing on gutters.

Some of the identified reasons can be solved without heating, for example, by arranging a cold attic. Then there will be no difference between the temperature of the eaves and the total roof area. Also, if you find that the drainage system is installed incorrectly or does not fit technical parameters, then it is recommended to completely reinstall it, increasing efficiency.

Heating wires

Most often, heating of roof gutters is performed by a special self-regulating cable. But there are other types of such communications for heating gutters and funnels; let’s consider each of them:

1. Resistive wire with constant resistance. It is considered the most affordable option for arranging roof heating. Consists of two-core wire and braid. Thanks to constant resistance quite reliable, provides constant high temperature;

   Photo - view of a resistive cable

2. Power wire. This a good option for heating the internal drain, or if there are no means to organize special heating. This cable generates inadvertent heating due to the temperature rise during normal operation. It is suitable for areas with small temperature differences;

   
   Photo – power

3. Self-regulating is considered the most popular. It is even suitable for heating a flat roof. It is a matrix that responds to changes in the temperature of the drain. If the temperature drops sharply, the matrix begins to actively heat its contacts and the roof area is generally heated. Very convenient is the fact that the temperature of the heating element is reduced in the same way. A special circuit is used to control the system.

   Photo – self-regulating

You can equip your drain using heating wires that are laid directly in the outlets or funnels, or install a combined type of drain heating. With this type of heating of gutters, a power cable is used for external gutters, and a matrix is ​​used for funnels or internal communications.

Naturally, such heated systems operate using electric current. You should know that in high frosts quite serious energy costs are possible. For example, to provide heating for one linear meter of gutters, approximately 18–30 W are required, depending on the type of wire chosen.

It is advisable to immediately discuss with a specialist the maximum temperature for heating the insulation of the self-regulating and power wire. If there are no problems when heating a metal drain, some plastic drainage systems do not tolerate heat well.

Video: heating the roof and gutters

Installation

Installation of heating gutters is easy to do with your own hands; the main thing is to calculate how much energy the system needs. In most cases, wires with a power of 35 W are sufficient, but it is advisable to contact specialists so that they can help calculate these parameters individually, depending on the material of the drain and the climate of a particular region.

The entire heating system consists of a control panel and wires. The panel includes a general circuit breaker, one circuit breaker for each phase, a thermostat, a contactor and an RCD. At the same time, the following wires will be required:

1. Heating units that will be installed in gutters and around funnels;
2. Signal signals that will connect the thermostat unit;
3. Mounting boxes for providing branching;
4. Parts for hermetically sealed cable connections, couplings, etc.

Step-by-step instruction How to install heating on a drainage system:

1. A heating cable is stretched across the entire area of ​​the pipes. Experts recommend installing it in several threads, then maximum operating efficiency is guaranteed. The number of cables is calculated based on parameters of 200 W per square meter;
2. Using mounting boxes in which you need to lay the wires, you need to branch out the heating system along the roof, laying it also in funnels and on the eaves of the roof. For installation, you can use double-sided adhesive tapes, since self-tapping screws can damage the integrity of sewer lines. But in the funnel or on the lower section of the drain (for example, if the gutter is placed in drainage system) the wire can be installed with rivets;
3. It is not the whole cable that is brought out to the drip, but only 10 centimeters, since in this place the drainage system is located at a right angle to the wall of the house. The most important thing is to ensure that the pipes are heated at the junction of horizontal gutters and vertical drains;
4. Next, you need to check the length of the wires and the heating of all the necessary sections of the roof, and install installation boxes in which control switches for heating the gutters will be located;
5. When the power cable is laid, the signal cable is laid. It needs to be connected to the thermostat;
6. Upon completion of installation work, all communications are called, their grounding is checked and the thermostat is adjusted.

You can buy systems for heating gutters in any city ( Nizhny Novgorod, Moscow, St. Petersburg, etc.). The price depends on the type of wires used and the functionality provided. The most popular models are produced by Devi and Ultra (for plastic).