The esp sensor came on. The ESP lamp is on - cause and repair methods

Wednesday at 04:40 PM

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Good morning everyone)
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So, we open our amnesty.

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Those who were subject to amnesty, but again received a point, do not have the right to apply for amnesty again

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With coming!)

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This often happens to me in the mornings when frost sets in winter or dew in the winter time. That is, when there is a difference between night and morning temperatures.
When I scheduled it for the next maintenance, I reported this to the dealer, but the diagnostics showed nothing, it says there are no errors, since there are no errors, there is nothing to fix. I left their service station from a cool room into the heat and drove about 150 meters and, lo and behold, the malfunction lights came on. I didn’t restart the computer; I immediately turned to them. With the engine running, we connected the diagnostics, it showed a break ABS sensor, printed. The engine was turned off and started, no errors. They said they would call after consulting with someone. Probably with NMR (NissanMotorRus). That’s where it all ended, in the sense that they didn’t call.
One of the assumptions made by the diagnostician was that dirt had gotten in. I even drove into the lake, thinking that the flow of water could knock off the stuck mud. Only I overdid it a little. Forward and backward I stomped on the gas pedal so that when driving in reverse My front right mudguard got twisted and got under the wheel.
Having left the road, I stopped several times in confusion, looked for an extraneous sound, only probably for the third time I discovered an already worn, holey plastic mudguard :-)
If you grind on the spot for even an hour or two, the lights won’t light up. The test begins after you start moving and continues continuously while you are driving.
Personally, I don’t worry, the malfunction lights come on, right on the go I turn the ignition key to the off position, then on. The internal combustion engine does not stall, because the alarm takes control of the engine. The interruption in the power circuit between turning off the ignition of the key and turning on the ignition by the alarm, although not large, is there. This is enough to restart the computer and clear the error.
Everything that I described is true only for me and many other owners of cars stuffed with electronics. You might come across an overly sensitive sensor and just like that.
As far as I understand, the fault that lights up is not related to the temperature difference. That is, it lights up after every run during the day?
It may have an effect, but it won’t show an error. Practice has shown. So I personally drove on a flat tire and only felt that it was flat when overtaking when I needed to accelerate and the car did not move as expected. This led to the loss of the wheel, but the garland of light bulbs did not light up.
It can be assumed because it was the rear wheel. But you probably remember the case with St. Petersburg X, who was already going downhill front wheel and he heard that it was descending only when it took off its shoes, after which he involuntarily parked in the swamp almost up to the glass. An inflated tire will make fewer revolutions than a deflated one. Apparently the electronics at this moment considers that there is a slight slip. That is, the designer laid down a certain error algorithm, otherwise this garland in the form of malfunctions would light up every time when driving onto a slippery road or ice. Such a difference in wheel rotation is not enough to indicate a malfunction, it is not enough. On the T-31, it’s also not enough to turn on electronic locks. Although someone calculated or subtracted that the electronic locking is activated when the difference in wheel torsion is almost 1/8.
Replacing the bearing is clear, runout is possible here. How can wheel alignment affect it? You probably changed the bearing, and then went straight to the adjustment stand.

The ESP system in a car is perhaps the most striking example of the development of technology in the field of safe driving. Born as a successor to ABS, ESP today has grown into a whole complex of various assistants and services that make life easier for the driver in every possible way. The more expensive the car, the more various electronic assistants it has. Traction control system, simulated locking, hill descent assistance system, emergency braking system, and so on and so forth - all this is performed today by the stabilization system. But it only helps until the moment when dashboard The ESP icon will not light up.

Why does the ESP light come on?

If the ESP lamp is on, the system is not working. There are no other reasons, unless the driver himself turned off the stabilization system with a button (available on many cars with this system). Otherwise, you need to look for the reason.

The problem is that ESP is almost entirely electronic system. In terms of mechanical elements, a car with a car differs from a car with only the design of the valve body - it can not only pump out brake fluid and reduce the pressure in the system, but also, conversely, pump up and force the wheels to brake - all or individually. Yes, the valve body also breaks (mainly the brushes and the power circuit), but this does not happen very often, and, as in the case of ABS, it should be checked last.

ESP device

Otherwise, ESP is a huge number of sensors. Firstly, the system uses ABS sensors to understand the speed of the wheels, and secondly, it records the position of the steering wheel, pedals and angular velocity car, thirdly, through special sensors and actuators, it can interfere with the operation of the engine and transmission, choosing optimal mode work.

If any of the sensors does not work or works somehow incorrectly, the system turns off completely. It could be a mechanical failure, a broken wire or inadequate values. For example, an ESP failure can be caused by installing a spare wheel of a different size. Such a wheel rotates at a different speed and that’s it – the system goes crazy and turns off.

Do not forget about low voltage in the network; if there is a lack of power supply, all electronic units will turn off.

Repair

ESP is a clear example of how technology development reduces maintainability. Purely theoretically, you can ring each sensor, check ABS, wheels, steering wheel position, camber and a bunch of other parameters, but it’s much easier and faster to go to diagnostics, where a connected scanner counts errors and will immediately tell you where to look. And then, depending on the circumstances, either change the sensor or repair the wiring.

An example of diagnosing an ESP malfunction. Photo – drive2

The difficulty is only with floating faults. Usually, in this case, the lamp lights up while driving, but goes out the next time the engine is started. To identify such a problem with a scanner, it is necessary to catch it, which is not always possible under service conditions. There are only two options left - either drive with the scanner connected until an error occurs, or drive until the lamp lights up constantly. The second option, however, is not at all safe.

Those who do not like services or live far from them can be suggested to try to “calculate” the malfunction using indirect signs. Rarely does a breakdown manifest itself in only one place. If the ESP lamp does not work properly together with the light on rear brake lights– look at the brake pedal position sensor. If the suspension was changed before the breakdown, look at the sensors and wires in the repair area. If there was a voltage drop in the car, then check the fuse. And so on. If there are no “hints”, then only the scanner. Alas, but without it to repair modern car almost impossible.

The situation with ESP repair approximately the same as with - as they say, it does not affect the speed, and it seems that you can drive, but it is still better to keep this system in good working order.