How to determine the color and frequency of a diamond. Main quality characteristics of diamonds

Diamond is the most expensive among the stones that are used to decorate jewelry. Therefore, its cost must correspond to its impeccable appearance. To understand what the clarity of a diamond is, the table of which is known to all jewelers, you need to understand what is included in this concept.

Characteristics of gemstones

Diamonds are originally found in nature. These are stones that have not yet been processed by humans. They are mined in deposits, and after that the weight is assessed and for the first time attention is paid to the purity of the stone.

Diamond

In this way, the approximate initial cost of the stone is calculated. But then it goes through several stages before it gets into the decoration. First, it is sent to the stock exchange through a company that sells precious stones en masse. And then it is chosen by jewelers or even diamond cutting factories.

The diamond goes through the cutting stage and receives its characteristics, on which the final cost depends. These characteristics include:

• Authenticity. It is determined at the level of stone extraction, as well as during a trading operation. Usually the risk of buying a fake on the stock exchange is minimal, but from the hands of street dealers or from unverified companies this risk increases several times.
• Size and weight. Determined after processing the stone. The larger the diamond, the more expensive it is.
• Shape of the stone. Depends on its original dimensions and configurations, as well as on the cut.
• Cut is a property that is directly related to the skill of the jeweler.
• The color can vary from blue to yellowish in color.
• Purity. Even the size of a diamond will not save you if its clarity is not satisfactory. Therefore, it is important to know how to determine this criterion.

The characteristics of diamonds are determined by their journey from the mine to the buyer at different stages. And usually, the more hands a stone has passed through, the more expensive it is. Diamonds are marked based on a set of characteristics and this is done as objectively as possible. This is due to the fact that jewelers have special tables for determining the quality of a stone. Points are calculated based on the points in the tables: the higher the diamond’s score according to all evaluation criteria, the better quality it is.

Stone purity and methods for assessing it

A criterion such as the clarity of a diamond is considered by jewelers from the point of view of “with defects” or “without defects”. These same defects can be different; not only their presence and size are assessed, but also attention is paid to whether they are external or internal. Flaws can be present in the stone not only from the moment of extraction, but also appear during the process of unprofessional cutting.

Determining the clarity of a diamond is not technically difficult. For a layperson, it is important to visually assess:

• transparency of the stone;
• penetration and play of light in stone;
• the presence of impurities that are visible in the diamond.

Moreover, you must remember that when buying a stone, you can ask the jeweler for a magnifying glass, which has a tenfold magnification. If you do not examine the defect under such a magnifying glass, consider that the clarity of the diamond is quite high and meets international quality standards. It is located approximately at level 6 or 7. At level eight, the defect can be detected even without a magnifying glass.

This factor affects not only the beauty, but also the durability of the diamond. It's no secret that diamond is the hardest substance on Earth. But impurities that can get into the stone, or cracks, significantly reduce its strength, which means that the stone will not last long.

Internal defects have a greater impact on the strength and durability of the jewelry. They are formed as a result of temperature changes or pressure changes in a stone deposit. These processes have been affecting the diamond for years, so it is not surprising that defects can vary widely. From a jewelry point of view, a defect is also considered internal if it cannot be removed by polishing the stone without losing weight.

Diamond clarity is measured according to the GIA world system. It is designed to mark foreign diamonds that are listed on the stock exchange. The stones come with ready-made certificates, which indicate the degree of purity in letter abbreviation. For convenience, use a magnifying glass with 10x magnification.

Classification of diamonds by clarity according to the GIA system:

According to the degree of manifestation, defects are divided into the following:

• visible with great effort;
• visible with effort;
• visible;
• easily visible;
• clearly visible;
• very clearly visible.

The degree depends on the use of the magnifier. Defects also have their own standards and the following are often encountered:

• A dot is a flaw without volume.
• An inclusion is a volumetric defect that is located inside a diamond.
• A stripe is a thin line on a stone.
• A crack is a break in the substance of a stone. It can be both superficial and internal.
• A cloud is a nebula that does not shimmer in the light.

Diamond Clarity

But the diamond defect is not always visible in the product. When set, we see the stone from the side of the crown, so some imperfections can be hidden with the help of a competent cut. In this case, everyone will pay attention only to the color of the diamond and its shape, and other characteristics will be hidden from view.

According to GOST, the classification of stones looks like this:

• The purity group is determined by a set of criteria.
• The weight of the stone is taken into account in two categories: up to 0.299 carats and from 0.3 carats.
• The location where the defect is present is also taken into account (center, middle zone and peripheral zone).
• A diamond without defects in any zone is classified as the first category. And further, the larger the defect or the more central it is, the lower the category falls.
• Category 7 or 7a is considered acceptable for purchase. This is the last degree at which the defect does not yet affect the strength of the stone, and is also not visible to the naked eye. Therefore, if you choose diamond colors in this category that are close to blue or transparent, it will seem to others that you have purchased the best and most expensive stones.

Different countries use different classifications. Therefore, if you want to make such a purchase abroad, do not hesitate to ask a consultant and examine the jewelry yourself. When making a purchase, collect all certificates, and also take care of the safe transportation of the diamond.

Every person, when choosing diamond jewelry for someone dear, wants everything to be at the highest level. But not many people understand such things as color, clarity and other properties of diamonds. This article can teach you how to choose the right diamond jewelry.

Introduction

Diamond– the hardest natural substance known. It was found in a type of igneous rock known as kimberlite. The diamond itself is essentially a chain of carbon atoms that have crystallized. The unique hardness of the stone is the result of a dense concentration of carbon chains.

Like other igneous rocks, kimberlite was formed over thousands of years as a result of volcanic action that occurred during the formation of the earth's crust.

Kimberlite lies within these former spheres of volcanic activity - often near mountain ranges - in vertical shafts that extend deep within the Earth. Within the kimberlite are intermittent deposits of diamond, one of several minerals.

However, not all kimberlites contain diamond. Other stones that are often found with diamonds are mica and zircon. Thus, kimberlite can be shades of blue-gray - called blue earth - or, if exposed to air, it can have a yellowish tint and is called yellow.

Key Factors: Diamonds and the 4 Cs

Although all diamonds are made from pressed carbon, each individual diamond is unique and distinct in its own way. Diamonds come in different shapes, sizes, colors, and various internal and external characteristics that serve to identify a diamond.

All diamonds have a certain value, and there is also the grading of diamonds by color and clarity, but how can you accurately determine which diamond is more valuable than another?

For round diamonds, you can use the following formula to estimate their carat weight: Carat Weight = Diameter in mm x Diameter in mm x Depth in mm x 0.006

When buying a diamond, what is more important: clarity or color?

Color and clarity are two of the most important characteristics of a diamond's quality. But is one more important than the other when choosing a diamond?

How does color affect the appearance of a diamond?

Diamond color is graded on a letter scale, with the top grade being D, which indicates a completely colorless diamond.

Diamond clarity or color?

The lower the color of the diamond, the more colored the stone appears. Diamonds graded K or below have a slight yellow tint that becomes more noticeable the lower you go on the color scale.

How does clarity affect the appearance of a diamond?

Clarity refers to how many internal imperfections (inclusions) and surface imperfections a diamond has and how visible they are under magnification or to the naked eye.

High clarity class FL (Flawless) assigned to diamonds that have no visible inclusions even when viewed with a 10x loupe. The lower the clarity of a stone, the more likely it is that imperfections such as black spots or lines can be seen within the diamond.

Does color or clarity enhance a diamond's brilliance?

Luster is perhaps the most important characteristic of a diamond, and its intensity depends mainly on the cut of the stone.

Color and clarity do not directly affect brightness, but they can contribute to its visual effect. While diamond color alone does not increase or decrease brilliance, more colorless stones appear whiter, brighter, and appear more vibrant overall.

In contrast, lower quality diamonds that have stronger yellow undertones may appear darker and people may perceive them as less brilliant (even though this may not actually be the case).

When it comes to clarity, the absence of imperfections definitely adds to the impression that the stone sparkles clean. Visible imperfections can make a diamond look a little dirty, but such imperfections do not change significantly as much as the stone reflects light to affect its brilliance.

The brightness of a diamond can be detrimental to stones with numerous, very large inclusions, but most jewelers do not carry diamonds of such low clarity.

When is the color of a diamond more important?

Sometimes better color is more important than cleanliness. For example, if a client is going to set their diamond white, it is very important that the stone has no visible tints.

Otherwise, if he sets a diamond with slight yellowish tints from or platinum, the yellow color will stand out even more against the white background and the diamond will look darker than its setting.

In such a case, a small inclusion on the side of the diamond would spoil its appearance much less than the low-quality color of the stone.

When does the clarity of a diamond become more important?

In general, clarity starts to matter when it is too low. There is not much difference to the naked eye between a graduated FL or IF diamond and one in the VS1-VS2 clarity range.

However, diamonds with clarity graded below SI1/SI2 are likely to have visible flaws.

Clarity matters much more than color when a diamond is going to be set in yellow gold, which can absorb yellowish tones in a low-quality stone and make it appear whiter than gold. In this case, it is better to make sure that the selected diamond looks clean to the naked eye.

Bottom line

How to choose a diamond by color and clarity:

• When buying a diamond, you must first make sure that the stone is clean, i.e., it has no flaws so that it can be seen with the naked eye.
• There is no need to look for the stone with the highest clarity, since diamonds graded VS1-VS2 or SI1 can appear as clear as FL/IF clear stones, there is no rush to find a beautiful diamond.
• If you buy a round diamond for a yellow gold setting, you can safely choose a stone that is a J, K, or L (sometimes even M) color and not have to worry about the visibility of its yellow hues.
• For other diamond cuts, you may need to draw a line with a higher color such as I, J or K.
• If a round diamond will be set in platinum or white gold, it should not go lower than an H, I, or J color. For cuts other than round, a G or H is a good choice, but not lower than an I color.

Today, there are several diamond grading systems in the world. Moreover, the most stringent of them are the Russian Specifications (the so-called “Technical Conditions”) and the GIA (the evaluation system of the Gemological Institute of America). Each of them has its own advantages (in the Russian one there is only one - a more strict assessment of color), but the GIA system is more advanced, since it reflects such important cut characteristics as the quality of polishing, symmetry and the presence or absence of fluorescence, which in Russian certificates never reflected. Moreover, diamonds are sold for export only with a GIA grade, while they enter the Russian market with specifications, since the Russian consumer is not so sophisticated.

Color.

Diamonds are distinguished by color shades - from colorless to yellow-brown. To determine the color of a diamond, the stone is compared to a color standard of the same size, after which it is assigned the appropriate color group. In accordance with the international GIA system, color shades are characterized by letter designations from D - colorless to Z - deep yellow or brown. The domestic TU scale provides designation with numbers from 1 (colorless) to 9 (brown). The color scale is divided into groups, it begins with colorless diamonds, then there are smooth transitions with increasing yellow color saturation, and ends with the last group, which has a clear yellow or yellow-brown color. So-called commercial stones have a color of at least 7.

Diamonds, like most other stones of mineral origin, have natural inclusions and defects in their structure. The fewer there are, the more valuable the diamond. Absolutely transparent diamonds are practically never found in nature; we can only talk about the purity of a diamond under tenfold magnification. If no defects are found, the stone is recognized as a pure diamond. When determining the clarity of a diamond, the number and nature of defects are determined, as well as their size and location in the diamond. Diamond clarity is assessed at 10x magnification using a magnifying glass or a special microscope.

“A diamond of pure water”... Such a familiar expression. What does it really mean? In this article, consultants from the SA&GA Jewelry House will talk about characteristics of diamonds, about how to correctly read product tags.

Every woman wants to have diamond jewelry. And when purchasing, it is important to correctly decipher the characteristics indicated on the tag, because the price of the jewelry depends on them.

Characteristics of a tag on jewelry

A sealed tag for jewelry is a certificate of quality. It must indicate the manufacturer of the jewelry, the main characteristics of the precious stone, encrypted in a special code, as well as the fineness of the metal. The tag is your guarantee for the jewelry.

Now let's take a closer look at what each number means.

Diamond grading system “4c”

In the world there are generally accepted diamond characteristics. We will analyze each in detail.

The 4c ​​system is a classification of diamonds based on their characteristics:

Color – color

Clarity – purity

Carat – weight in carats

Cut – cut

All four of these factors directly affect the beauty and value of a diamond.

Carat(weight) + Color(color) + Clarity(clarity) + Cut(cut) = diamond cost

Color – color

Basically, diamonds are colorless. To a layman, it seems that all diamonds are transparent. But in fact, diamonds have different shades - ranging from pale yellow to brown shades. This can only be determined by a gemologist.

A pure diamond is an absolutely pure diamond without flaws. These are the most highly valued, and they are also the most expensive. Diamonds with a yellowish tint are no longer valued so highly. Diamonds with a sapphire blue tint are quite rare and are very expensive.

According to current technical conditions, the color characteristics of diamonds are indicated by numbers. Thus, diamonds with 57 facets and weighing up to 0.29 carats are divided into 7 groups. Diamonds of the same cut, weighing more than 0.3 carats, are divided into 9 color groups.

The optimal price and quality for a diamond with 57 facets are considered to be third class diamonds.

In the international system GIA diamond grades The color of a diamond is indicated by letters of the Latin alphabet.

Carat – weight

The generally accepted measure of the mass of diamonds, as well as other precious and semi-precious stones, is usually measured in carats. One carat is equal to 0.2 grams.

Tables have also been developed to roughly estimate the size of a diamond.

Clarity - purity

Diamond Clarity depends on the state of the crystal lattice. Only gemologists can determine it using a special gemological 10x magnifying glass and microscope.

The most ideal option is when there are no inclusions at all either inside or on its surface. These are unique stones that are not found on the mass market, these are auction stones and they are very expensive.

In international practice, it is customary to indicate the purity of a stone with numbers and it looks like this:

In jewelry, the optimal clarity groups are considered to be 2 and 3. For KR-57 diamonds up to 0.29 carats - groups 4 and 5, and for diamonds over 0.3 carats - 4 - 6.

Cut - cut

A sparkling diamond is a skillfully cut diamond. It is the cut that allows you to reveal the magic and beauty of the stone, and it is selected individually.

The proportions of an ideal cut from the point of view of the refraction of light rays were presented by a mathematician of Russian origin at the beginning of the twentieth century, Marcel Tolkowsky, in his work “Diamond Design”. Round diamonds with 57 facets have become considered the world standard throughout the world.

The quality of the cut depends on how the diamond's facets refract and transmit light, and not on the type of cut (emerald, marquise, heart, etc.). Such a magical property of returning light is possible only in a diamond, in its highly skilled artistic and technical cutting work.

According to the technical specifications, the geometric parameters of diamonds are divided into categories - from A to G. The highest quality cut, in which all recognized standard measures are met, is considered “A”.

There are several types of diamond cuts:

The ability to decipher the characteristics of diamonds recorded on a special tag will help you learn about the characteristics of the jewelry. They tell you about the diamond's carat weight, color, clarity, presence of defects, and shine in the sun. The cost of a stone directly depends on these indicators, and the ability to navigate the presented numbers and letters will protect you from unnecessary financial expenses.

Rating according to the 4 “C” system

Diamonds formed in the natural environment are not a homogeneous crystalline mass. Before cutting, they have invisible and visible to the naked eye cracks, air bubbles or foreign inclusions.

This affects the color and transparency of the diamonds obtained after cutting, which are sold in jewelry stores or go under the hammer at world-famous auctions.

In Russia, as in the rest of the world, the 4 “C” rating system is used. It allows you to describe a gemstone in detail using its physical characteristics. These include:

• cut
• carat weight;
• color (color);
• diamond purity (clarity).

If several precious stones are used in the manufacture of jewelry, then their exact number will be indicated on a special tag.

How to read the tag

Let’s imagine that you are planning to buy a piece of jewelry whose tag in the “Inserts” section says 3Br-Kr57–0.2ct–3/6A. It looks like a complex formula, but such a record is very easy to decipher.

The first value “3Br” indicates that 3 diamonds are inserted into the product.

“Kr57” indicates the type of cut. In our case, the cut is round, and each stone has 57 facets or facets.

Diamonds with a round cut type are most often encrusted with products with a large number of small precious stones (up to 1 carat).

Large minerals are cut in other types, among which the following stand out:

• "Marquis" with 55 facets "M55";
• "Princess" P49, "P65", P68";
• “Pear” - “G55 and “G56”;
• “Round” - “Kr57”, “Kr17”, “Kr33”;
• "Oval" - "O57";
• “Emerald” - “I57” and “I65”;
• “Asher” - “A25”, “A49”, “A55”;
• "Radiant" - "P65", "P70";
• “Heart” - “C57”, “C58”;
• “Trilliant” or “Trillion” “T19”, “T31”, “T37”, “T52”.

“0.2ct” means that the total weight of stones of the same size and the same cut is 0.2ct. If diamonds of different sizes and qualities are inserted into the product, then there are several entries on the tag corresponding to each of them.

Weight and cut type play a big role, but much more important is the color and clarity of the diamond, as well as the quality of the cut, which you must be able to correctly decipher.

Luster depends on cut

A properly cut stone gives a piece of jewelry a unique shine, attracting the attention of others.

The ideal A cut allows the stone to reflect light from the apex, giving it its most dramatic effect. If a surface cut is used, the light is scattered in different directions and does not give a strong shine. For minerals with dark shades, deep cutting of types B and C is specially carried out. With this, the light literally disappears into the depths, and the diamond looks mysterious and dull.

The use of modern high-tech equipment allows cutting, polishing each facet to an almost perfect shine. The shine of your jewelry depends solely on the quality of the cut. Therefore, if you see the letter A on the tag, then this designation indicates a surface cut, which gives the stone maximum brilliance.

Diamonds of group B are more stretched in height, and group C diamonds are more stretched in diameter. The highest quality minerals are subjected to type A surface cutting, and stones with disproportionate sizes and defects are subjected to type B and C cutting.

Diamond color categories

The color and purity of the jewelry is indicated by the “3/6” mark. In this case, the first number characterizes the color, and the second indicates the purity of the diamond.

The value of natural diamonds depends on color and clarity. There are no absolutely transparent diamonds in the world, so jewelers have come up with a color scale that allows them to be classified into groups.

Stones with a high degree of transparency have a color category 1. They have a pale blue tint invisible to the naked eye. As saturation increases, color parameters increase, reaching a value of 9 for coffee-colored diamonds.

You should know that stones with color indices from 1 to 4 are considered colorless, that is, their faint shades can only be seen when using magnifying glasses.

In our particular case, there is a marking with the number 3, which means the presence of diamonds of the third color class. These are decent indicators, indicating that you are looking at quality stones.

How to determine the purity of a stone

If the mineral is free of scratches, cracks, air bubbles and inclusions of other minerals, then it is classified as the maximum first category of purity. As the number of defects increases, the purity mark on the tag increases, reaching 7 units.

Even a diamond with a clarity rating of 7 can only detect defects using a magnifying glass with tenfold magnification.

A diamond with a clarity of 1 to 4 is considered “crystal clear,” while a grade of 5-6 is acceptable in jewelry made from artificial stones.

In our case, purity characteristic 6 indicates not ideal, but high quality jewelry.

It is impossible to visually determine the difference in color and clarity in diamonds whose size does not exceed 1 carat, so feel free to buy the jewelry you like.

Purchasing diamonds is a reliable way to invest capital. They have no shelf life, do not dry out or crack due to storage in the sun, and are not afraid of cold and high temperatures. Prices are steadily growing, as are precious metals. If necessary, they are easy to sell.

When buying large diamonds, pay attention to the purity indicator. The cost of the jewelry and the interest in purchasing it on the part of potential buyers depend on it.

Diamonds of the first and second clarity categories weighing more than 1 carat are very expensive and are sold at auctions. We recommend purchasing diamonds with a clarity of 3 (3 3) to 6 (6 6). They are inexpensive, but constantly increase in price, preserving the investment.

Low purity black diamonds

Black diamonds, which for many years were considered low-grade stones, have become popular in recent years. Such minerals receive purity categories of 10, 11, 12 and are unlikely to be suitable for investment.

According to hematologists, black diamonds are of extraterrestrial origin and are extremely rare. The jewelry encrusted with them is valuable if the diamond is large and beautifully cut.

When looking at the label of such a product, pay attention to the category of cleanliness and uniformity of color. The diamond should not have chips, cracks or inclusions visible to the eye.

Remember that cracks and chips can destroy the diamond and cause it to lose value.

Correctly reading the characteristics of diamonds