How to make a solar phone charger with your own hands. Do-it-yourself portable charger Make homemade phone charging diagram


Of course it’s reality, and what’s most interesting is that Nikola Tesla tested the principles of this method long before the advent of the mobile phone.

The physics of operation of such a wireless charging circuit is as follows. The role of the charger is performed by a transmitting circuit; the phone charger itself consists of two circuits - a transmitter and a receiver. A flat coil located in the phone itself is used as a receiving circuit, and the transmitter is made in the form of a stand, inside of which the transmitting coil is placed.

Electrical vibrations, using electromagnetic induction, flow from one circuit to another, and then are straightened and supplied to the battery.

The transmitter, as you can see, is a regular blocking oscillator based on a single field-effect transistor. We make the coil by winding 40 turns of copper wire, with a tap in the middle on a frame with a diameter of 100 mm.

You can use field-effect transistors IRFZ44/48, IRL3705, and many others, even bipolar ones.


You will have to tinker with the receivers a little longer, the coil consists of 25 turns of 0.3-0.4 mm wire wound one after another, strengthening the turns with superglue, the work is quite painstaking, but you can handle it.


Such wireless charging for a mobile phone can charge it in 7-8 hours, it can be done faster, but then the size of the coil increases and there is no way to place it in the phone body.

The circuit design of the charger is a DC-DC converter that allows you to charge a mobile phone or tablet from a 12-volt network. The basis of the circuit is the 34063api chip, designed specifically for this purpose.

The 34063api has a built-in output stage that can deliver up to three Amperes to the load, which allows you to charge tablets and smartphones. The output voltage is exactly 5 Volts. The inductor consists of 20 turns of 0.6 mm wire. Input and output capacitors can be excluded from the circuit; they only filter noise.

Somehow it happened that my Nokia charger burned out, it was 45 outside and running out to buy a new one was not an option, so I decided to use my work laptop as a charger.

We only need two connectors - we already have one, and the other I took from the USB cord for the printer.

Let's strip the wires, and on the USB side we use only the red and black wires and connect them red to red, black to black. And then we isolate the junction; it is best to use a thermal casing of suitable diameter, but I didn’t have one.

I think many lovers of active tourism have encountered the problem that there is simply nowhere to charge a mobile phone or smartphone; sometimes an additional battery does not even solve the problem. A radio amateur traveler always has a way out; you can assemble a homemade structure for charging from standard AA batteries.

The circuit diagram of the device is quite simple and will be much cheaper than a ready-made device.

Sometimes the chargers used by gadgets fail. There are people who are interested in trying everything themselves. As a result, homemade phone chargers are born.

Reasons for making your own charger

How to charge your phone? This question does not concern many people, but only until they are faced with problems that can lie in wait for everyone.

So, why might we need to create a phone charger?

  • The phone battery fails until you purchase a new one.
  • The ability to recharge your phone where there is no network.
  • Possibility of creating a spare charger.

The easiest way to resolve the question is how to make a portable phone charger using batteries.

Making portable charging

How to charge a phone if you have batteries, a compartment for them, for them or an old mobile phone and a USB extension cord?

Batteries must be AA type. In addition, a soldering iron and tester should be available.

We take 4 batteries (preferably large capacity) and insert them into the battery compartment. We measure the voltage with a tester, it should be at least 5 volts. This is due to the fact that modern phones can be charged from a USB connector, in which the voltage is 5 V.

From a USB extension cable that you don’t mind using, cut off the plug that connects to the computer. We study the pinout of the contacts, call the tester. We find + and -, remove the remaining wires with wire cutters and insulate them.

We put a thermal casing on the wires and treat it with a lighter to ensure a tight entry. We try on the place where the plug is attached.

We will need to solder the wires to the metal rivets. For this purpose, soldering acid is used, which can be applied with a tin stick, after which we tin the rivets.

We solder the wires according to their charge.

The connector must be glued to the body, having first degreased or scraped off the connector and plastic with a knife.

Apply heated glue to the body and press. Apply glue around it, closing the open contacts. The remaining unnecessary wires are bitten off and covered with glue. If necessary, it can be masked using a marker.

We insert the batteries. They must be of the same capacity. Moreover, their total capacity must exceed that of a telephone battery.

Making a charging cable

After making the charger itself, the question “How to make a charger for your phone?” cannot be removed because the cable still needs to be made.

We cut off the small connector of the USB cable; the length of the cable should be half a meter.

We cut the wires in the same way. + and - have already been identified, there is no need to repeat them. We bite off the remaining wires, then place them in a thermal casing, strip them, and tin them.

Batteries can be charged in different places intended for them. In most cases, you can also use cell phone chargers.

You don’t have to complicate your life and charge your batteries in appropriate chargers.

Checking the charging

We insert the charged batteries into the booster, to which we connect the USB cable on one side, and connect it to the phone with the other side and check the charging.

After some time, the voltage on the booster may drop, so it is better to use batteries with a larger capacity.

Thus, we figured out how to make a phone charger with your own hands.

Wireless charger

Extension cords may stop charging the phone, they may become frayed, and the charging socket on the phone may become loose. All this necessitates wireless charging. Let's look at how to make wireless charging for your phone below.

The principle of wireless charging is based on the fact that a coil is built into the charger, which creates a magnetic field; under the cover of the phone there is another coil that serves as a receiver. When the receiver is in range of the conductor, electromagnetic pulses are activated. The phone battery is affected through rectifiers and capacitors.

But before you make your choice in favor of wireless charging, you need to consider that it has a number of negative qualities:

  • there is no reliable data on the effect on the human body;
  • energy transmission is ineffective;
  • full battery charge is restored over a longer period of time compared to wired charging;
  • The operating capacity of the battery may be reduced;
  • If the battery is not installed correctly, the battery may overheat, which will lead to premature wear.

Let's figure out how to make wireless charging for your phone.

To do this, you need several meters of thin copper wire. We wind the conductor into a coil with a number of turns equal to 15. To maintain the shape, secure the spiral with double-sided tape or glue. Leave a few centimeters of wire for soldering. The connection to the charging socket is made using a capacitor and a pulse diode, which are attached to opposite ends.

The size of one turn on the conductor should be 1.5 cm. After twisting, the diameter of the resulting coil is 10 cm.

To form the transmitter, an even thinner copper wire of 30 turns is used. The circuit is closed by a capacitor and a transistor. We place this device in the area of ​​the transmitting ring with the display facing up.

Finally

Thus, the question of how to charge your phone has several answers. Charging can be portable from batteries, or it can be wireless. In any case, it should be done by a person who understands electricity, otherwise you may run into problems.

One of the most important problems of a modern person who has a smartphone is the constant drain on the device’s battery. Portable chargers have been created especially for such cases, which allow you to connect your gadget using a USB cable and charge your smartphone using the battery built into the charger.

So, to make a portable charger we need:
- Two crown batteries (one of the batteries can be used),
- Box (you can use a metal candy box),
- A switch that can be removed from an old cassette player or a broken children's toy
- And most importantly, a USB charger for the car, which can be purchased for about 2-3 dollars,
- And also the copper wires with which we will connect everything.


First of all, we need to make a removable brand for the battery. If you have old toys or devices at home that use Krona batteries, then ready-made stamps can be removed from them. If there are no such toys or devices, then you can make a brand yourself. To do this, you need to remove the top part of the crown battery, spread flux on the metal contacts on the inside and solder the copper wires to them. For fixation and insulation, you can use regular hot melt adhesive.


The stamps are ready, they can be attached to the contacts of the second battery (wide contact to narrow, and narrow to wide).


The next thing we need to do is disassemble the car charger by taking the board on which the USB connector is located. All that remains is to assemble all the components of our portable charger and connect everything through the switch.


When connecting the mark to the battery, you can see which wire is positive and which is negative if you use different colored wires. If not, then you can mark it as a plus for greater convenience and ease.

The central wire or spring on a car charger is always positive, and the wire located on the side is always negative. So, we must connect the positive wire of our battery to the switch, and the negative wire directly to the charger board.


If the positive wire on the charger is made in the form of a spring, it can be replaced with a regular one for greater convenience.

After this, two positive wires need to be soldered to two contacts on the fork.


The device is almost ready. All that remains is to assemble it in a box, on which in the side you need to cut two passages for a USB input and a switch.

Prologue


The idea to build this design was inspired by a flight on an Airbus A380 aircraft, in which there is a USB connector under the armrest of each seat, designed to power USB-compatible devices. But such luxury is not available on all planes, and even more so it cannot be found on trains and buses. And I have long dreamed of rewatching the series “Friends” from beginning to end. So why not kill two birds with one stone - watch the series and brighten up your travel time.

An additional incentive to build this device was the discovery.


Technical task

The Portable Charger must provide the following capabilities.

  1. Battery operating time under rated load is at least 10 hours. High-capacity lithium-ion batteries are ideal for this purpose.

  2. Automatic switching on and off of the charger depending on the presence of load.

  3. Automatic shutdown of the charger when the battery is critically discharged.

  4. The ability to force the charger to turn on when the battery is critically discharged, if necessary. I believe that on the road a situation may arise when the battery of a portable charger is already discharged to a critical level, but the phone needs to be recharged for an emergency call. In this case, you need to provide an “Emergency power-on” button to use the energy still available in the battery.

  5. The ability to charge the batteries of a portable charger from a network charger with a Mini USB interface. Since you always take a phone charger with you on the road, you can also use it to charge the batteries of a portable power supply before the return journey.

  6. Simultaneous charging of charger batteries and recharging of a mobile phone from the same mains charger. Since the network charger from a mobile phone cannot provide sufficient current to quickly charge the battery of a portable charger, the charge can take a day or more. Therefore, it should be possible to connect the phone to charge directly while the battery of the portable power supply is charging.

Based on this technical specification, a portable charger using lithium-ion batteries was built.

Block diagram


The portable memory consists of the following components.

  1. Converter 5 → 14 Volt.
  2. A comparator that turns off the charge converter when the battery voltage of lithium-ion batteries reaches 12.8 Volts.
  3. Charge indicator – LED.
  4. Converter 12.6 → 5 Volts.
  5. A 7.5 Volt comparator that turns off the charger when the battery is deeply discharged.
  6. A timer that determines the operating time of the converter when the battery is critically discharged.
  7. Converter operation indicator 12.6 → 5 Volts - LED.

Switching voltage converter MC34063


It didn’t take long to choose a driver for the voltage converter, since there wasn’t much to choose from. At the local radio market, at a reasonable price ($0.4), I found only the popular MC34063 chip. I immediately bought a couple to find out if it was possible to somehow forcibly turn off the converter, since the datasheet for this chip does not provide for such a function. It turned out that this can be done by applying supply voltage to pin 3, intended for connecting the frequency-setting circuit.

The picture shows a typical circuit of a step-down pulse converter. The forced shutdown circuit, which may be needed for automation, is marked in red.

In principle, having assembled such a circuit, you can already power your phone or player if, for example, the power is supplied from ordinary batteries (batteries).


I will not describe in detail the operation of this microcircuit, but from the “Additional Materials” you can download both a detailed description in Russian and a small portable program for quickly calculating the elements of a step-up or step-down converter assembled on this chip.

Lithium-ion battery charge and discharge control units

When using lithium-ion batteries, it is advisable to limit their discharge and charge. For this purpose, I used comparators based on cheap CMOS chips. These microcircuits are extremely economical, as they operate on microcurrents. At the input they have field-effect transistors with an insulated gate, which makes it possible to use a microcurrent Reference Voltage Source (RPS). I don’t know where to get such a source, so I took advantage of the fact that in microcurrent mode, the stabilization voltage of conventional zener diodes decreases. This allows you to control the stabilization voltage within certain limits. Since this is not a documented inclusion of a zener diode, it is possible that in order to provide a certain stabilization current, the zener diode will have to be selected.

To provide a stabilization current of, say, 10-20 µA, the ballast resistance should be in the region of 1-2 MOhm. But, when adjusting the stabilization voltage, the resistance of the ballast resistor may turn out to be either too small (several kiloohms) or too large (tens of megaohms). Then you will have to select not only the resistance of the ballast resistor, but also a copy of the zener diode.


The digital CMOS chip switches when the input signal level reaches half the supply voltage. Therefore, if you power the ION and the microcircuit from a source whose voltage you want to measure, then a control signal can be obtained at the output of the circuit. Well, this same control signal can be applied to the third pin of the MC34063 chip.

The drawing shows a comparator circuit using two elements of the K561LA7 microcircuit.

Resistor R1 determines the value of the reference voltage, and resistors R2 and R3 determine the hysteresis of the comparator.


Charger switching and identification unit

In order for a phone or player to start charging from a USB connector, it needs to be made clear that this is a USB connector, and not some kind of surrogate. To do this, you can apply a positive potential to contact “-D”. In any case, this is enough for Blackberry and iPod. But, my branded charger also supplies positive potential to the “+D” contact, so I did the same.


Another purpose of this unit is to control the switching on and off of the 12.6 → 5 Volt converter when a load is connected. This function is performed by transistors VT2 and VT3.


The design of the portable charger also includes a mechanical power switch, but its purpose is more likely to correspond to the “mass switch” of the battery in a car.

Electrical circuit of a portable power supply

The figure shows a diagram of a mobile power supply.


C1, C3 = 1000µF

C2, C6, C10, C11, C13 = 0.1µF

C14 = 20µF (tantalum)

IC1, IC2 – MC34063


DD1 = K176LA7 R3, R12 = 1k R27 = 44M
DD2 = K561LE5 R4, R7 = 300k R28 = 3k
FU=1A R5 = 30k VD1, VD2 = 1N5819
HL1 = Green R6 = 0.2 Ohm VD3, VD6 = KD510A
HL2 = Red R8, R15, R23, R29 = 100k VT1, VT2, VT3 = KT3107
L1 = 50mkH R10, R11, R13, R26 = 1M VT4 = KT3102
L2 = 100mkH R16, R24 = 22M Are being selected
R0, R21 = 10k R17, R19, R25 = 15k R14* = 2M
R1 = 180Ohm R18 = 5.1M R22* = 510k
R2 = 0.3Ohm R20 = 680Ohm VD4*, VD5* = KS168A

Purpose of circuit nodes.

IC1 is a step-up voltage converter 5 → 14 Volts, which serves to charge the built-in battery. The converter limits the input current to 0.7 Amps.

DD1.1, DD1.2 – battery charge comparator. Interrupts the charge when the battery reaches 12.8 Volts.

DD1.3, DD1.4 – indication generator. Makes the LED flash while charging. The indication is made by analogy with Nikon chargers. While charging is in progress, the LED flashes. The charge is complete - the LED is constantly on.

IC2 – step-down converter 12.6 → 5 Volts. Limits output current to 0.7 Ampere.

DD2.1, DD2.2 – battery discharge comparator. Interrupts battery discharge when the voltage drops to 7.5 Volts.

DD2.3, DD2.4 – timer for emergency switching on of the converter. Turns on the converter for 12 minutes, even if the battery voltage drops to 7.5 Volts.


Here the question may arise, why such a low threshold voltage was chosen if some manufacturers do not recommend allowing it to drop below 3.0 or even 3.2 Volts on the bank?

I reasoned like this. Traveling does not happen as often as we would like, so the battery is unlikely to have to go through many charge-discharge cycles. Meanwhile, in some sources describing the operation of lithium-ion batteries, a voltage of 2.5 Volts is called critical.

But, you can limit the discharge limit to a higher voltage level if you plan to use such a charger frequently.

Construction and details

I express my gratitude to Sergei Sokolov for his help in finding the design components!


Printed circuit boards (PCBs) are made of foil-coated fiberglass laminate with a thickness of 1 mm. The dimensions of the PP were selected based on the dimensions of the purchased case.


All elements of the circuit, except the battery, are placed on two printed circuit boards. Moreover, on the smaller one there is only a Mini USB connector for connecting an external charger.



The power supply units were placed in a standard Z-34 polystyrene housing. This is the most expensive part of the design, for which we had to pay $2.5.


The power switch pos. 2 and the forced power button pos. 3 are hidden flush with the outer surface of the case to avoid accidental pressing.

The Mini USB connector is located on the rear wall of the case, and the USB connector pos. 4 together with indicators pos. 5 and pos.6 to the front.


The size of the printed circuit boards is designed to fix the batteries in the body of the portable power supply. Between the batteries and other structural elements, a 0.5 mm thick electrical cardboard gasket, bent in the shape of a box, is inserted.


This movie requires Flash Player 9

And this is a portable power supply unit in assembled form. Drag the image with the mouse to view the power supply from different angles.


Settings

Setting up a portable charger came down to selecting instances of zener diodes and ballast resistors for each of the two comparators.



How it works? Video illustration.

The three-minute video shows how this homemade product works and what is inside. Video format – Full HD.


Everyone brainiacs, Hello! I suppose you all belong to that part of the world's population that uses smartphones, and I think over the past couple of years you have replaced them several times with more advanced ones. All “outdated” smartphones have lithium-ion batteries, which are not possible to use in new models, and thus you are left with good, but useless batteries... Is this true?

Personally, I have accumulated three phone batteries (and I did not change the phones because the batteries were faulty), they did not heat up or swell, and they can be used to power some gadgets. The capacity of an average battery after 2 years of use is about 80% of the original, this is exactly the period during which I usually purchase a new one brainsmartphone. And if you think about the efforts to obtain raw materials, the production of the batteries themselves and the costs of transportation...

All things considered, it would be a real shame to let them slowly "die" or simply throw them away. In this brain article And video I'll tell you how with your own hands do homemade, which allows you to “give new life” to batteries from old phones, that is, make an external battery for gadgets, also known as POWERBANK.

Step 1: Materials

Well, let's start with what you need to create your own external battery. Materials needed:

  • lithium-ion battery,
  • charging and protection board for lithium-ion batteries, designed for 5V, maximum input current 1A (the less, the longer the “second life” of the battery will be),
  • DC/DC boost converter with output values ​​of 5V and max. 600MA
    wires,
  • several pin connectors,
  • stationery clip,
    a piece of acrylic,
  • screws,
  • and a switch.

You will also need:

  • a pair of pliers,
  • stripper,
  • soldering iron,
  • and a glue gun,
  • and also a drill and a drill.

Step 2: How do the boards work?

First, let's take a look at the charging and protection board for lithium-ion batteries. Its three important functions are charging, overcurrent protection and undervoltage protection.

Lithium-ion batteries charge according to a specific pattern - when they are almost fully charged, their current consumption decreases. Brain board recognizes this and as soon as the battery voltage reaches 4.2V, it stops charging. At the output of the board there is a protection circuit that prevents overcurrent and excessive undervoltage. Modern telephone batteries already have such protection built in, but in this case homemade This board will allow you to use unprotected batteries that can be found in older laptops. The charging current of the board can be adjusted using a resistor, and it should be within 30-50% of the rated battery capacity.

The DC converter converts the battery's DC voltage into a square wave and passes it through a small coil. Due to induction processes, a higher voltage is generated, which is converted back to DC and can be used to power gadgets designed for 5V.

Now, more or less knowing what we are dealing with, we can begin the actual assembly brain games.

Step 3: Design

Before you start creating the housing for homemade products, measure the components and make a drawing. So in my brain structure the battery will be secured using a stationery clip, which is screwed to the case, the boards will be located on top of each other, the input/output contacts will be on top in the upper part of the case, and the contacts going to the batteries will be on the bottom.

Some batteries have a non-standard position of the polarity of the contacts, so this “non-standard” must be taken into account in our device, that is, we need to add pin connectors. To do this, take a connector with three pins and tear out the middle one, and bend the pins themselves on one side to make it easier to attach them to the battery contacts. Or take a connector with four pins, connect the outer ones to the positive terminal, and the middle ones to the negative, and thereby change the polarity of the contacts by simply connecting the battery to the left or right pair of pins.

Step 4: Making the Case

Now let's start assembling the body. To do this, take a ruler and use a sharp knife to mark the lines, scratching them about 10 times, so that you don’t have to put a lot of effort on the workpiece and don’t use the ruler anymore. Having scratched the lines to a sufficient depth, we apply pliers to them and bend the workpiece until it breaks along these lines. Having “broken” all the necessary parts in this way braincase, we clean them and adjust them to each other. Then we attach them to a stable surface and, using a drill, make holes and slots for screws, a switch, inputs, outputs and pin connectors.

Step 5: Circuit Assembly

Before you begin assembly brain devices First we assemble the electrical circuit, and focus on the presented diagram. A small switch here is used to turn the DC/DC converter on/off.

Step 6: Final Assembly

Using a glue gun, we glue the boards to each other, and then to one of the body parts. Next, we glue the entire body and screw a stationery clip to it.

We connect the battery through the pin connector and try homemade In action. If it does not work, then connect the charging cable.

Step 7: Use!

Well, now your old phone batteries are back in business!

The version of the case I proposed is of course not ideal, but it will do for demonstrating the whole concept. I can even bet that you will come up with a much better solution :)

That's all, everyone brain success!

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