Troit engine - causes and remedies. The engine troit hot: causes and methods of elimination The engine troit very strongly

One of the most common engine malfunctions is interruptions in the operation of one or more of its cylinders, which among motorists they say “troit the engine”. Anyone who has experienced this phenomenon is probably familiar with its symptoms. But what are the causes and consequences of such a breakdown, not all motorists know. Today we will tell you in detail why the engine is troiting, how to diagnose and properly repair the motor.

The reasons why the engine "troit"

Troit engine can constantly or from time to time. General signs engine triplets are as follows: at idle, strong uneven vibrations begin to penetrate from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment, the sound of a running engine changes (it “growls”, goes from high “notes” to low ones, and vice versa). The unit begins to consume more fuel, while its power drops, and obscene sounds are heard from the exhaust pipe, accompanied by thick white or black smoke. If at least one of these signs is present, it means that the “heart” of your car has problems with one or more cylinders. If they are not eliminated in time, then the consequences can be very deplorable - up to the power unit.

Let's characterize the most common reasons why the engine troit - there are four of them:

• late or early ignition of the air-fuel mixture (FA);
• uneven entry of fuel into the engine cylinder;
• lack or excess of air in the combustion chamber of the cylinder;
• drop in compression level.

Let's consider them in more detail.

Reason #1. If the air-fuel mixture ignites in the cylinder earlier or later than the stipulated time, then the spark plugs are to blame, which produce a spark that is too weak, or the spark does not form at the right time. Weak sparking occurs due to the fact that harmful deposits (soot) accumulate on the body of the candle and its electrodes, which interfere with the breakdown of the spark.

Another reason for a weak spark is the destruction of its insulator. In the place where the insulator has collapsed, a soot spot forms, which prevents the formation of a normal spark. If there is no spark at all, then there may be several reasons: a worn-out candle cap, a failed high-voltage wire (supplies current to), a breakdown of the ignition coils or the switch. The latter phenomenon is quite rare, but it will not be superfluous to check the condition of the switch that controls the ignition distribution.

Reason #2. Uneven fuel entering the cylinder, when a smaller amount is poured into the combustion chamber, is often due to a malfunction of the fuel pump parts (pressure part or pressure reducing valve) or the pressure valve in the fuel supply system. If more than necessary amount of fuel enters the cylinder, the problem probably lies in the fuel injectors - they are dirty or out of order. Finally, another “fuel” reason for engine tripping is a malfunction of the electronic control unit (ECU) of the power unit, which can mistakenly increase or decrease the supply of gasoline / diesel to the cylinder.

Reason #3. Excess air in the cylinder is a sign of depressurization of the air supply system, which includes the air filter, intake pipe hose, throttle pipe and receiver. The lack of this important component of the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder can be triggered by a dirty air filter or broken throttle valves.

Malfunction of the mass air flow or position sensor throttle valve, which the ECU perceives as a requirement from the motor to add or reduce the amount of air into the combustion chamber, can also cause the motor to trip.

Reason #4. Low or its complete absence is perhaps the most serious reason why the engine troit. This is the first sign that the pistons or the valve have burned out in the idle cylinder, or the piston rings have completely worn out. Here you can not do without a serious repair of the power unit.

In addition to the common reasons why the engine troit, there are secondary ones. They are talked about when the engine troit periodically - “cold” (at) or “hot” (at medium or high speeds). Here, the most common malfunction is the valves: when their gap increases at idle, the engine trips, which disappears as it warms up (the gap is restored). Conversely, the gap increases when the engine reaches operating temperatures - that's when it troit "hot" with all the signs described above.

Diagnostic methods

If all the signs that the engine is troiting are present, it is necessary to diagnose it and determine which cylinder has failed and for what reason. You can check it yourself, or you can drive the car to the service station, where it power unit subjected to detailed computer diagnostics. In most cases, you can determine the cause of the engine tripping yourself, but if the cylinder refuses to work, for example, due to low compression, it is better to seek help from an experienced minder.

Step 1. Determine the problematic cylinder. We check the operation of the cylinders with the engine running, so all safety measures must be observed. We turn on the ignition, open the hood, listen to the operation of the motor. We remember with what sound it works. We begin one by one to disconnect the high-voltage wires going to the spark plugs.

When the working cylinder is turned off, the motor starts to triple with a vengeance. If you turn off the spark plug on the non-working cylinder, the behavior of the motor will not change. Another way - we do not touch the high-voltage wires, but turn off the chips that control the supply of fuel from the nozzles to the cylinders one by one. If one of the chips is turned off, the operation of the engine will not change - this is how we will detect a junk cylinder.

Step 2 We check the condition of the high-voltage wire and spark plugs. Disconnect the high voltage wire and carefully inspect it. If we notice damage to the insulating layer, it means that the cause of the malfunction is in the wire. It would also be useful to check the integrity of the conductive core - if it is broken or burned out, then a breakdown or internal resistance occurs (we measure it with a multimeter, we check it with normal readings), which interferes with the normal supply of current to the candle. But if the wire is intact, then the problem is in the spark plug. You need to unscrew it and inspect it carefully.

If you find visible damage to the base of the candle or its electrodes (soot), then it will have to be replaced. If the candle is intact, we are looking for a problem on which the engine is troiting further.

Step 3 We measure whether enough air enters the cylinder. The lack of air enriches the fuel assemblies, which leads to engine tripping. We check the tightness of the air supply system: we block the intake pipe, we supply air to the cylinder through a vacuum hose at a pressure of 0.5-0.7 atm., We listen. If a characteristic hiss is heard, then the air supply system has depressurized. Another way to diagnose is to check the air filter. If it is clogged, little air enters the cylinder. We also diagnose the mass air supply sensor - for this you need a laptop, which we connect to the diagnostic connector.

Step 4. Determine how much fuel enters the cylinder. To do this, we measure the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (up to 7 atm.), Which we attach to the injector rail. It is necessary to measure the pressure in 4 stages: when the ignition is turned on, at idle, at operating speed with the tube removed from the fuel pressure regulator and with the tube pinched check valve. If it is low, then the elements of the fuel pump or the pressure valve in the fuel supply system have probably failed. If normal, we check the condition of the injectors, they may become dirty or even fail. Finally, we check the operation of the fuel system on diagnostic equipment - errors in the ECU are possible.

Step 5 We measure the compression in the cylinder using a compression gauge, which we insert into the hole of the candle of the problem cylinder, turn on the ignition and increase the engine speed. We take readings a few times. If the compression has dropped by 15%, then the piston, valves or piston rings in the cylinder have worn out. To determine the indicated breakdown, you will have to disassemble the engine.

How to make sure that the engine does not troil

After diagnosing and determining for what reason the engine is troit, we proceed to correct the situation. Well, if the problem is only in candles or high-voltage wires - they can. The same is about the ignition coils and the switch. But if the reason is clogging of the fuel or air system, then you have to tinker. Dirty nozzles must be washed with a special agent (for example, Injection System Purge), if necessary, change oxygen sensor(), because it will probably not work correctly either.

dirty and clean injectors

If flushing did not give a result (fuel continues to fill the candle), then we change them to new ones. The same applies to the fuel pump and other elements of the fuel system that fail when the engine trips - it is better to replace them than to repair and put them in place. Replacing the air filter and elements of the air supply system that have been depressurized are also necessary during repairs. Well, the final chord is the correction of ECU errors that lead to engine tripping.

If you, in the company of your friends, say that your engine has a miss (from English missing), you may be misunderstood or simply look at you with "square" eyes ... It's another matter if you complain that the engine is troiting or one of the cylinders does not work for you, in which case a large number of different versions and assumptions allegedly taken from personal experience, as well as advice on what to do in this case, will fall into your address. You can, in principle, listen to the advice of friends, there is nothing shameful in this, but I would also recommend listening to the opinion of experts on this matter. In my article today, I will talk about what engine tripping is and where it comes from, you will learn about the causes of this unpleasant phenomenon, as well as how to fix this malfunction. Armed with the information I needed, I decided to visit the minders at one popular bus station in our city in order to find out whether various "experts" write the truth on the forms and whether they should be trusted. Simply put, I decided to ask why the engine is troiting for those who are directly related to this.

Let's start with why the engine troits, and not "doubles" or does not "quadruple", for example :-)

The fact is that quite recently, most engines had four cylinders, about the fact that there could be six, eight or twelve, probably no one would have believed 30 years ago, but oh well ... In general, when one of the four cylinders stopped working, then there were only three working cylinders, and the sound of the engine changed seriously. This phenomenon is called troit engine, that is, the engine runs on three cylinders with a characteristic sound. Years passed, the number of cylinders changed, and the term troit remained unchanged.

How to understand that the engine troit?

Personally, it seems to me that tripling cannot be confused with anything. This sound will be immediately audible, as if your car is being replaced and it starts to work like an old Cossack with some kind of vibration and “rattling”. Instead of the uniform synchronous operation of the four cylinders, some kind of intermittent coiling is heard. In short, it's hard to describe. At the same time, instead of an even hiss, a “bang” will be heard from the muffler.

What is fraught with tripling?

First of all, you will lose power no matter how you twist it, and the engine will not run on three cylinders as it does on four. Everything seems to be clear here. The second sign that the engine is troit is vibration and the characteristic "shiver" that comes from the engine compartment. Third feature the fact that the engine troit - excessive fuel consumption and the smell of gasoline in the exhaust gases. Do you think everything? No, this, as they say, is only flowers, if you do not detect and fix the malfunction in time, you will be in big trouble.

I'll explain why. When one cylinder does not work, the combustion of the fuel-air mixture does not occur in it, which means that it all accumulates in the cylinder, then diluted and mixed with oil goes into the crankcase. The more fuel goes into the crankcase, the more the oil will be diluted, its viscosity and lubrication properties will completely disappear over time. As a result, you will get a significant reduction in compression, critical wear of the piston and rings, which will rub in the combustion chamber without a drop of lubricant, creating scoring and erasing the cylinder walls. In the end - overhaul engine is simply inevitable.

Reasons why the engine may troit

You already know how tripping occurs, but the problem still lies in some kind of malfunction that causes the cylinder to stop working. Unfortunately, there can be several reasons why the engine troit, which seriously complicates the search.

So, to your attention the most common causes of engine tripping

First of all, let's start with a non-working cylinder:

1. Start the engine and open the hood.
2. Listen to the operation of the engine and try to remember it.
3. Next, take turns taking out high-voltage wires. When the wire is pulled out, the operation of the engine should change, because the candle stops receiving current, therefore the cylinder stops working. If the operation of the engine has not changed, then this is a non-working cylinder. You need to search until you find which of the cylinders is not working.
4. Now, you need to know if a spark is entering the cylinder or not, this will allow you to understand the reason, and also indicate the direction in which you need to move.

Now you need to check the spark plugs, for this

1. Take a candle and unscrew the candle in the non-working cylinder.
2. Assess the condition of the electrode according to the following criteria:

Soot or soot on the candle prevents its normal operation, the spark is weak, or completely absent. Cleaning the candle or only temporarily solves the problem, you need to look at the root of the malfunction and continue to look for the reason why the candle is in this condition.

Check spark plug for spark

To find out the true reason why you need to check the spark. To do this, unscrew the spark plug, then put on a high-voltage wire and put the spark plug with a metal case to the engine, while the spark plug electrode should not touch the engine. Next, you will need an assistant, he must turn the starter, and in the meantime you watch the candle. If the spark does not appear during the rotation of the starter, remove it from the mass by 1 cm and try again.

A weak spark or its complete absence indicates the following:

1. Problems with high voltage wires - high resistance or open circuit. with a multimeter, in case of high resistance, replace them.
2. Faulty ignition coil - check if this is the case, change if necessary.
3. ECU defective. Diagnose and replace if necessary.
4. DPKV (crankshaft position sensor) failed. As a rule, with such a breakdown, an error appears that the on-board computer issues, and you can also find out about it on computer diagnostics. If needed .
5. Lost a few teeth. Check how the belt is, if its position is violated, remove the belt and adjust the position of the shafts and gears according to the marks.

If there is a spark and the candles are in perfect order, look further for the reasons why the engine is troit, among the possible ones there may be: problems with compression, faulty rings, clogged nozzles, poor valve fit or the need to adjust the valves.

Sometimes there are cases when the engine troit only "cold" or "hot"

In this case, the valves are most often the cause, perhaps they are misaligned. should be carried out every 20 thousand km. The essence of this problem is that, most likely, the valves have large gaps, however, after the engine warms up, they become smaller and the engine does not troit. The same thing "hot" - when the motor is cold, the valve is normal and the engine runs smoothly, however, after warming up, the unadjusted valve clamps, as a result, the cylinder stops working and the engine starts to triple.

I will end here, I hope my article was useful to you and you found the cause of the engine tripping. If not, seek help from specialists. If you know other reasons for engine tripping, I will be happy to listen to them, use the comment form for this.

When various failures begin to appear in the operation of the engine, accompanied by uncharacteristic sounds, it does not immediately become clear where the strange noise came from and what it means. The engine is troit - this is the diagnosis that experts from the auto repair shop can make. To successfully get rid of tripping sounds, you need to follow the instructions.

general information

Engine internal combustion is a complex system that requires regular maintenance and repair. In the absence of such procedures increases the risk of failures and malfunctions in the operation of the unit:

There are a lot of reasons for such malfunctions, but tripling is one of the most common. The defect occurs in almost all types of power plants (diesel, gasoline), for any mileage, condition and other operating properties of the internal combustion engine.

And if the engine troit, but the driver does not take appropriate measures, this leads to irreversible consequences in the form of failure of the unit. To avoid this, it is important to eliminate the source of the problem in a timely manner.

In order for the engine to work properly, and the combustion of the fuel-air mixture to occur correctly, it is important to maintain its tightness. If leaks and damage to the CPG and timing appear, the gas distribution mechanism will begin to fail, which will increase the risk of complete depressurization. Loss of tightness occurs when the occurrence or deformation of the piston rings, piston, cylinders and other important components of the system. It also leads to the appearance of cracks or burnout of the timing valves.

To determine the malfunction, it is important to measure the compression in the cylinders. If the level has dropped in only one cylinder, then it is enough to fill it with a little engine oil with a syringe. After performing such a manipulation, you need to re-measure.

Main reasons

To fix the problem, you need to figure out why the engine is troiting. The reasons are often associated with a violation of the combustion process of the fuel-air mixture in the cylinders, which causes severe vibration. But the occurrence of vibrations is not always associated with tripping, because there may be other factors contributing to such symptoms. The reasons why the engine starts to triple include:

1. Lack or excess of the fuel mixture that is supplied to the cylinder.
2. Too little or too much air.
3. Failures causing early or late ignition.
4. Damage, wear and other engine failures, accompanied by a loss of compression.

In most cases, tripping occurs when using the wrong fuel composition, untimely ignition, or the inability to ignite. This is also facilitated by incorrect combustion conditions due to mechanical damage or other malfunctions of the internal combustion engine.

Given these data, it is possible to significantly narrow the scope of the search and the number of devices for diagnosing. IN without fail it is necessary to check the fuel system and the injector, after which the intake air supply is evaluated. In some cases, engine tripping occurs when one of the ECM sensors is damaged.

One of the common problems that cause tripping is late or early ignition. Also, the motor can triple with a weak spark of a candle, which is easy to fix on your own. First of all, you need to unscrew the candles and inspect them in detail. If there is damage to the insulator or other visual defects, you will have to replace the candle.

If the insulator is damaged, it will be visible to the naked eye, because the place of failure will be covered with a black coating. In addition, it is necessary to assess the condition of the central electrode and carefully examine the gap of the side element.

The next step is to check the spark plug wires. If episodic friction is noticed when driving in the rain or at high humidity, this unit may stop working normally. The power plant will need to be warmed up and put into normal operation.

You need to start work with a visual inspection of the spark plug cap and wires with maximum voltage. Such components are covered with an insulating layer, which dries out over time and begins to crack. As a result, this leads to current leakage.

High-voltage wires are subject to malfunctions during frequent repair or service activities under the hood. It is almost impossible to determine the defect visually, so you will have to contact a specialist for help.

If the candles and wires are fully functional, the ignition coil may be the cause of tripling. And if there are separately placed nodes in the engine, the phenomenon will spread to each candle. To check the coil, it is enough to unscrew the candle, attach it to the ground and start the engine. It is important to make sure that the thread of the candle fits snugly against the mass, and that the cap is securely fixed to the candle. If you do not follow the rules, the coil may burn out, and the switch may fail.

When a good spark appears with a bang, you will have to look for another reason for tripping. If there is no spark, the coil needs to be replaced. The electronic ignition distributor or switch is very rarely subject to breakdowns, so it is practically not necessary to replace it.

Incorrect air intake at the intake also leads to intense engine trebling. In this case, the risk of depressurization increases, due to which the power plant will suck in excess air, reducing overall power and stability.

To check the air system, you need to close the intake pipe near the air filter and start pumping air to provide the desired pressure (usually it is 0.5 atmospheres). Then you should start looking for the leak. If there is no pressure drop, then the system is fully operational. If there are hissing sounds in any place, the assembly will most likely need to be repaired.

As for the lack of supply air, then it is often caused by dirty filters, because of which he lost his throughput. They fix the problem very simply: first of all, you need to remove the filter, and then check how the engine works without it. In addition, the problem appears when the throttle valve is clogged. Such an element needs careful diagnostics and verification, so they must be performed at each scheduled inspection, along with the replacement of oil, filters and other working elements.

Often, a damaged TPS, DMRV or other sensor that sends the wrong signal to the electronic control unit leads to engine tripping. As a result, the last node cannot determine how open the damper is and how much air mass has entered the motor. As a result, the remaining components of the power plant are not able to correctly calculate the composition of the fuel-air mixture, which entails additional problems.

To make sure that the sensors are malfunctioning, it is necessary to check the operating mode of the scanner installed in the diagnostic socket, and then compare the obtained data with the nominal ones. Any deviations from the norm lead to the beginning of engine tripping.

Damage to the power system

If the engine started to triple, perhaps damage to the power system led to this. Checking it for faults it is important to familiarize yourself with the working properties:

• fuel pressure;
• suction intensity.

The first indicator is related to the functionality of the electric fuel pump, which is installed in the fuel tank of most modern cars. If the mesh filter becomes clogged with all sorts of debris, this causes malfunctions in the electric motor of the fuel pump or impairs the power supply to the device.

At the verification stage, it is also necessary to evaluate the condition of the regulator valve in the fuel rail. If the pressure is too low, tripping is inevitable.

After checking the previous nodes, you need to evaluate the condition of the injection nozzles. As you use vehicle they become clogged, reducing throughput and causing other failures. In addition, the nozzles can completely fail. To clean and test them, it is necessary to use a washing stand that pumps a special cleaning compound, as well as supplying power. The system simulates the operation of a working injector and evaluates the performance.

If the nozzle is not damaged, then in the closed state it should not leak. In addition, the injection system must open in time during the supply of an electric pulse.

In the absence of problems with fuel pressure and injector operation, it remains to assess the condition of the computer. And although such an element very fails in rare cases, it is possible. The cause of the trouble is the replacement of the factory firmware or software chip tuning.

If the fuel card is flashed incorrectly, this will lead to such a nuisance that the electronic control unit will begin to pour fuel. Also inevitable problems in the form of flooding spark plugs.

If the engine compression readings have dropped significantly, this may be due to its wear. Often one or a pair of cylinders fails, as a result of which the compression of the fuel-air mixture occurs incorrectly. Because of this, normal combustion of fuel does not occur, and compression drops due to burnout of pistons and valves, wear of piston rings and other problems.

To fix the problem, you need to evaluate the compression in the motor, and then disassemble the unit for detailed diagnostics and repairs. In any case, the motorist must understand that it is strictly forbidden to start the engine with a faulty cylinder. If you ignore this rule, additional failures and problems are simply inevitable. The final repair of the system will require large financial costs and efforts.

The list of causes of engine tripping is very extensive. But in order to understand why the car is troiting and how to deal with it, it is important to separately consider the type of power plant (injector or carburetor), the specifics of the timing, the general condition of the engine, and others. If we are talking about problems with the carburetor engine, then it is possible that the problem can be eliminated by simply cleaning and tuning the carburetor.

For injection-type models, additional diagnostics, sensor restoration, nozzle cleaning and other service activities will be required. If problems with the internal combustion engine itself led to engine tripping, you will have to prepare for the mandatory disassembly of the engine for thorough diagnostics and repair.

In any case, if the engine starts to triple, this is a serious signal that diagnostics need to be performed. In this case, it is important to quickly determine the presence of a problem, as well as find an effective way to fix it.

missing ”), which in a “free-technical” translation can mean the same thing as “engine troit” (everyone is free to call this phenomenon as he pleases). In the case of a miss (if you stand near the exhaust pipe and listen), we will hear a clearly distinguishable and uniform “boo-boo-boo ...”. And when one of the cylinders does not work, this causes additional problems, because in this case (apart from the loss of power and “uncomfortable driving” ... although one must also, probably, look for such a reckless driver who, when the engine “triples”, will continue to drive hard!) the engine itself begins to wear out catastrophically quickly, and here's why:

• gasoline that continues to flow into the “non-working” cylinder does not burn out, but settles on the walls (mirror) of the cylinder, mixes with oil and enters the crankcase. oil begins to flow. Because of this, the engine compression decreases, “good” conditions are created for creating “seizures” on the “mirror” of the cylinder, on pistons, precision planes of hydraulic compensators, and in general on everything that “moves” inside the engine and is washed by oil. The engine starts to work already in a different temperature regime, it starts to overheat slowly, because the oil (oil of normal quality) also serves to remove heat from moving parts, and what is already in the crankcase can hardly be called “engine oil”.

Here is an incomplete list of what "trouble" a "non-working" cylinder can bring us. At first glance, the definition of this malfunction is quite simple. At first sight… But sometimes it turns out that everything is checked, everything seems to be, and this “everything” works fine, but the engine still “troits”. Therefore, we will “point by point” analyze the procedure for diagnosing electronic fuel injection systems for “missing” in the conditions of an “ordinary workshop” or “just in a garage”, where there are no special devices to “look inside” the engine during its operation and very accurately determine the cause of "missing". The test, as usual, can and should be started with a spark test. That is, check and make sure: "there is a spark or not." Spark plug First, unscrew the candle from the cylinder and carefully examine it. What will we see? If the engine is working (working) normally and “correctly”, then the color of the side electrode and insulator will be light and slightly brown. Such a candle should work. If we see the sootiness of the electrode and insulator, this is a “bell” to us: "Something and somewhere is not working properly." There is an "enrichment" with fuel or "throwing" with oil. And because of such “smokyness”, the spark plug may also not work or work extremely disgustingly, you can even say so - “irregularly”, because such soot interferes with the normal course of sparking. The reasons for the spark can be:

• prolonged operation of the engine at idle and in warm-up mode if a spark plug of the “wrong” glow number is screwed into the engine.
• check valve failure
• low compression in the cylinder
• shift or violation of the valve timing
• incorrect operation of injectors (nozzles) - “pour over”
• malfunction of the oxygen sensor (oxygen sensor)

Next, let's look at the spark plug housing. It should be white (we are not looking at some individual dark-bodied spark plugs) and should not have vertical black stripes or black dots. The presence of this indicates that the candle is already “breaking through” and will not work normally. Such a spark plug is only "on the throw." Well, if the visual inspection satisfied us, then we will directly check the spark itself when scrolling with the starter. We insert the spark plug into the tip of the high-voltage wire, put it on the “ground” of the engine and scroll the engine with a starter and see if the spark “jumps” between the electrodes of the candle or not. Is it slipping? Fine. But that is not all. Recall that the spark plug "works" inside the cylinder, where pressure is created in the range of 10 kgcm2 (on average). And we checked the "presence of a spark" at normal atmospheric pressure. And in order to try to get closer to the pressure that is created in the engine cylinders, we need to take the spark plug to a distance of 15-20 mm from the "mass" and also turn the engine over with a starter. If, even under this condition, a good “healthy” spark of a “saturated” blue color jumps between the candle and the “mass”, everything is fine. If the wife “does not jump” at such a distance or “skips”, barely noticeable, then we can say that we have a “weak spark” on the engine and the reasons here may be:

• increased resistance of high voltage wires
• ignition coil failure
• switch failure

High voltage wires Let's remove and also carefully consider each high-voltage wire separately. First, let's examine the tip of the wire inserted into the spark plug. It must be solid (black or red, depending on the type) and not have:

• light gray coating on the inner surface
• gray-brown dots on the outside (they can be from 1 to 3 mm in diameter)

Both the first and second “tells” us that this high-voltage wire “worked” in the “extreme” mode (faulty spark plug, increased gap in the spark plug), which caused such a light gray coating or gray-brown dots (breakdown). From practice, we can say that at first a light gray coating appears, and only from it, an “experienced look”, you can immediately determine that the candle is operating in an “abnormal” mode. And if you do not pay attention to this color change inside the tip of the high-voltage wire in time, then the high-voltage wire will simply “break through”. The resistance of the high voltage wire is best measured with a digital multimeter. Values ​​may be different for each specific engine. For example:

• "Mitsubishi" with 4G engine 63 - from 5 to 9 Kom. With engine 6 G 73 - from 8 to 16 Kom.
• "Toyota" with 3 S-FE engine – from 7 to 12 Kom, with motor 1 G - FE - from 8 to 15 Kom

The resistance of high-voltage wires depends (of course) on their length, but should not exceed (on almost any engine) the value of 20 Kom. If the device showed us a resistance of more than 20 Kom, we must look for the cause. What can happen to high voltage wire? To begin with, of course, it must be disassembled, that is, remove the rubber (plastic) tip and expose the same metal tip that is directly put on the spark plug. In the above figure, all the "details" of the tip are shown with slightly increased distances - to make it a little clearer. In fact, the high-voltage wire should fit very snugly against the "nickle" of the tip. This is the possible reason #1 for the increased resistance of the high voltage wire. Due to ordinary “aging”, the contact of the inner core of the BB-wire with the “stubborn nickel” is oxidized and the resistance of the wire as a whole increases very much, it happens that up to 150-190 Kom. It is easy to check this statement: you need to touch the second probe of the multimeter not to the tip itself, but to the central core of the high-voltage wire itself. In most cases, the multimeter immediately shows a normal and "correct" resistance. If this did not happen and the resistance of the high-voltage wire is “infinity”, then we must carefully follow the following procedure: I don’t know how anyone, but we have a set of “positive” probe with a very thin needle at the end. When carrying out ordinary measurements, we do not use it, but we use it precisely for such cases: we begin to pierce the high-voltage wire to the central core every five to ten millimeters and see if there is resistance or not. It happens that this very “central vein” simply “burns out” in its length, and with the help of such a simple check, we find the place of the break. Further, everything is simple - we cut off the “affected” area and restore the performance of our high-voltage wire as a whole. However, if the length of the wire is “at the limit” (this is often found on engines of the “3S - Fe "," 4 A - FE "and similar ones) - you have to regret and change the whole wire. If there is nothing to replace the BB wire, then you can temporarily do this: splice two BB wires. Only it is necessary to very carefully connect the central veins of the BB wires to each other, isolate everything well at the end and try not to throw such a “new” wire onto the metal when installing it. Ignition distributor cover Just carefully and carefully consider it both outside and inside. A common “disease” is a “breakdown” of the distributor cap due to increased voltage created by a faulty spark plug or high-voltage wire. If it is, we will see it in the form of a thin and sinuous strip of dark or grayish color, usually in the "area" of contacts. We pay attention to the so-called "coal" inside the lid: it should easily "walk" in its nest (it is spring-loaded and you can pull it out and stretch the spring a little for prevention), and not have pronounced signs of "burning" - as on it, and around his seat. And the last thing you can do to check the ignition distributor cap is on the “working”, that is, running engine, with a wire that is well screwed to the “mass” at one end near the distributor cap at a distance of no more than 0.5mm - 1mm. In the event of a "breakdown" of the cover, we will see a spark jumping in the place of this "breakdown". Distributor with Hall sensors Let's look at the picture: This figure shows the connector of the ignition distributor of the engine 6G 73 "Mitsubishi". Location: contact number 1 - the one that is closer to the cabin, contact number 4 - closer to the radiator. Wire colors:

1. blue red
2. Blue-yellow
3. Red (the "fattest" of the rest)
4. Black

Interruptions in sparking may be due to the "unfair" operation of this distributor. We will not delve into these reasons, because this is a separate topic, we will only tell you how to properly check the performance of ignition distributors of this type.

1. With the ignition off, we check for the presence of a "mass" (or "minus") on pin No. 4. Usually it is a thin black wire.
2. We turn on the ignition. Check availability +12v on pin #3. Please note that this contact should have battery voltage, no less and no more.
3. We “sit down” with the output (“positive”) of the multimeter contact No. 2 and with the ignition on, we begin to slowly turn the engine, but not with the starter, but “manually” (either by the alternator pulley, or by the crankshaft pulley). We look at the scale of the device: when the engine is slowly turning, “0” and “+ 5 volts” will alternate there. It should be noted that after, for example, 5 volts, “0” would immediately follow on the scale of the device, and there would be no gradual decrease in voltage.
4. On contact No. 1, we repeat the verification procedure described in paragraph No. 3.

The most important thing here is to find out that the signals from the Hall sensors are “correct”, that is, “logical 1” always follows “logical 0”, that is, our 0 and 5 volts.

After that, we will check the reliability of the connections of both the “positive” and “negative” wires. It happens that due to the oxidation of these contacts, breaks occur in the “work to create sparking”. "Runner" of the ignition distributor Checking it comes down to determining the absence of "internal breakdown": To do this, we will assemble a “serious structure”, as shown in the figure, and, scrolling the engine with a starter, we will carefully observe whether a spark “jumps” between the “wire” and the “runner” itself or not. If it "slips" - the engine, of course, will run unevenly (stumble) and have interruptions at idle. Nozzle (injector) The engine may “troit” due to the injector in the following cases:

1. Malfunctions of the injector itself (the winding burned out, for example, but this is quite rare - you have to "try hard").
2. Due to the use of low-quality fuel or the improper use of various types of “fuel system cleaners”, especially “SUPER-CLEANERS”, after some time the injector simply “clogs” with foreign impurities (the same “chunks” from the fuel tank) and stops passing fuel into the cylinders.
3. Broken or shorted power or control circuits to this injector.

The figure above shows two common schemes for connecting injectors to a control unit (ECU ), which are used on almost all Japanese-made machines. It should only be noted that a circuit using a current-limiting resistor was used on production machines until 1990 (“Toyota ", For example). Appearance nozzles is shown in the following figure: Having collected the above circuit, we can quite easily and quickly check both the presence of “power” on the injector and the receipt of “control” signals to the injector. When the engine is turned by the starter, the light should blink. If everything is fine here, go to the next item:

• With a medical stethoscope on the running engine, “listen” to each injector, pay attention to the difference (if any) in the sounds between the injectors. If the sounds (clicks) emitted by the nozzles are almost the same for everyone, then we look at the following paragraph:
• Unscrew the spark plug on the idle cylinder and two adjacent spark plugs, lay them out on the table, carefully examine and try to find differences between the color of the soot on the spark plugs in the working cylinders and on the spark plug in the idle cylinder. If it is noticeable that the color on the spark plug in the idle cylinder carbon deposits are lighter than on neighboring (working) ones - it is necessary to remove the nozzle and check, first of all, the filter at its inlet (see figure above). It is likely that it is clogged with various kinds of deposits.

There is also a longer, but more accurate check of the injectors performance. To do this, you must completely remove the fuel rail (ramp) and turn it 180 degrees so that the injector nozzles “look” either up or to the side. Swapped high voltage wires It also happens, indeed, when one of the cylinders (or several at once) does not work because of this, and instead of immediately paying attention to this and checking everything thoroughly, it is limited to the question: “Did you touch the wires? » and having received a negative answer, he calms down on this. Quite often, such a “trouble” happens on “Mitsubishi » with 4 engines G63 and 6G 73, because although there are “numbers” on the ignition coils indicating the number of the cylinder on which this ignition coil “works”, but not everyone, firstly, they know about it, and secondly, they are sometimes simply poorly read due to mud. Below are the pictures, which indicate "which ignition coil works on which cylinder":

On all other machines, the cylinder numbers are written (pressed out) on the ignition distributor, you just need to thoroughly clean the covers from dirt and everything will immediately become visible. And there will be fewer problems.

Vladimir KUCHER, city of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
http://www.efisakh.ru

• Reprinting is permitted only with the permission of the author and subject to the placement of a link to the source

“Engine tripping” is a malfunction in the operation of one or more cylinders of an internal combustion engine. This is accompanied by a drop in power, vibration at idle, an increase in fuel consumption, which subsequently leads to engine wear. These malfunctions individually can be indicators of other failures, therefore, to identify tripping, it is necessary to consider them together.

To diagnose which cylinder in your engine has failed, you must first disconnect the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs one by one. This work must be done with the engine running at idle, very carefully. In order not to get an electric shock, you need to try not to touch the body of the car. It is advisable to stand on a rubber or wooden surface. Turning off the spark plugs, observe the operation of the engine. When you turn off a working cylinder, the engine will start to triple more, while turning off the faulty one will not be followed by any changes. When you have identified a non-working cylinder, you need to find out the cause of its malfunction.

Troit engine, causes

Consider the main reasons why the engine can triple.

Spark plug failure

Spark plug failure is considered to be the most common cause of engine stall. When exposed to heat and vibrations, the carbon in the wire can weaken and impair conduction between the coil and spark plugs. This partially or completely suppresses the spark. Spark plugs can also become dirty due to the formation of a rich fuel mixture (the predominance of fuel in the air-fuel mixture) or oil in the cylinders. In order to check if the spark plugs are the reason why the engine in your car is troiting, you need to unscrew the spark plug from the faulty cylinder. A wet, gasoline-smelling spark plug indicates a malfunction of the spark plug itself or an excess of fuel in the fuel-air mixture. A dry candle indicates that the fuel-air mixture is too poor. To fix this problem, you need to replace the spark plugs.

Damage to high voltage wires

If you changed the spark plug and the engine is still running, you should pay attention to the high voltage wires. Their malfunction is usually difficult to diagnose because the wires may look normal from the outside. Inside the wires are conductive graphite rods that can be damaged. The wires themselves must be free of cracks, burns from hot parts of the engine and other external damage. Their ends must not be oxidized. Moisture on the wire worsens its conductivity, which can also provoke engine tripping. To make sure that your high-voltage wires are intact and working, you can start the car in a dark garage or at night and see if sparks fly off the wires.

Filter clogging

Dirty fuel filters contribute to engine tripping due to lack of fuel in the cylinders. They can also interfere with the operation of spark plugs. Fortunately, these filters are easy to replace. Dirty air filters can also cause tripping. Quite often, air filters are replaced along with fuel and oil filters in the service complex. Healthy filters will keep your car's engine running smoothly. Even in the absence of problems, filters are recommended to be replaced in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

Malfunction of fuel injectors and water condensate in the gas tank

Clogged fuel injectors prevent the cylinders from getting enough fuel. To solve this problem, you simply need to pour the injector cleaner into fuel tank. If the engine is still troiting, the injectors need to be cleaned or replaced. The water that is part of the fuel condenses into the gas tank and this can also cause the engine to triple. In this case, it is necessary to add liquid to the fuel to remove water. The main signs of clogged fuel injectors: difficulty starting the engine, engine malfunctions at idle and transitional speed, loss of engine power and deterioration in acceleration dynamics, increased fuel consumption, increased exhaust toxicity, misfire, exhaust system pops, breakdown of the catalytic converter. in winter cold engine with clogged injectors rarely starts.

In order to find the real causes of tripping, you need to conduct a detailed analysis possible causes. Only in this way can the breakdown be quickly and efficiently eliminated. If you cannot do it yourself or you are not sure that the engine is actually troit, it would be better to contact a technical inspection station or a car service.