Vaz does not pull well. Why doesn't the engine pull and what to do? Low level of compression in cylinders

During the operation of the car, many owners are faced with a number of problems. One of them is a decrease in engine power. At the same time, it is not always clear what is the reason for this phenomenon, what measures to take, whether it is worth going to the service station. Let's talk about the main reasons why the engine does not pull and how you can fix the problem on your own.

The main reasons for the decrease in engine power

1. Malfunction of the crankshaft position sensor

There are situations when the DKPV untimely sends a control command to supply the air-fuel mixture. As a result, the power of the power unit drops before our eyes. The main cause of the failure is the shift of the toothed star in relation to the pulley and the damper delamination. In such a situation, it is necessary to carefully inspect the damper and replace it.

2. Increase (decrease) the gap between the electrodes of the candles

During operation, due to the powerful temperature effect, the distance between the electrodes of the candle may decrease or increase. To exclude or confirm your suspicion, you need to check the size of the gaps with a round probe. If the distance is less or more than the allowable, you need to adjust by bending the side of the electrode or replace the spark plug. As for the optimal distance of the spark gap, it can be different (depending on the type of spark plug) - 0.7-1.0 mm.

3. The appearance of carbon deposits on candles is another clear sign of a problem.

If the engine pulls poorly, it is necessary to unscrew all the spark plugs one by one and inspect them. If obvious carbon deposits appear on the electrodes, the device must be cleaned with a metal bristle brush. In this case, it is important not only to clean the candles or replace them, but also to find out the cause of this phenomenon.

4. Failure of spark plugs

Decrease in engine power may be caused by product failure. In this case, it is necessary to check the performance of the candle on a special stand. If the suspicions were confirmed, then the only way out is to replace the kit or one candle.

5. There is no gasoline in the tank

You can diagnose the problem by looking at the fuel gauge. If it is faulty or there is a suspicion of its "inadequacy", then the presence of fuel can be determined by removing the fuel pump.

6. Contamination of the fuel filter, freezing of water in the system, pinching of the fuel line, failure of the fuel pump

All these malfunctions can be safely attributed to the same category, because they all have the same symptoms - the starter cranks the engine, but there is no smell of fuel from the exhaust pipe. If the car is carbureted, then the cause must be looked for in the float chamber. Most likely, it is not supplied with fuel. In the case of an injector, the presence of fuel in the ramp is easier to check by pressing a special spool (installed at the end of the ramp).

To fix the problem, you need to thoroughly warm up the engine and pump the power system with a tire pump. After that, all the pipes of the system, hoses and the gas pump itself are changed.

7. Fuel pump creates too little pressure

This problem can be determined exclusively by special measurements (made directly at the outlet of the fuel pump). After that, the quality of the fuel pump filter is checked.

The solution is to clean the fuel pump filter, replace it (if repair is impossible) or install a new fuel pump.

8. Poor quality of contact in the circuit

Poor quality of contact in the circuit through which the fuel pump is powered or failure of its relay. The first thing to do to check is to make sure the quality of the "mass" on the car and measure the resistance with a multimeter. If the resistance level is really too high, then the only way out is to clean the contact groups, crimp the terminals well, or install a relay (if the old one is faulty).

9. Breakage of nozzles or malfunction in the supply system

If there is a suspicion of failure of these elements, it is necessary to check the resistance of the windings with a multimeter for the fact of an open or interturn short circuit. If the cause of the problem is a malfunction of the computer, then such a check can be carried out exclusively at a service station.

There are several ways to eliminate the decrease in engine power for this reason (depending on the depth of the problem) - install a new computer, clean all the nozzles, ensure high-quality contact in the electrical circuit, and so on.

10. Breakdown of DPKV

Breakage of DPKV - crankshaft position sensor or damage to its chain. In such a situation, the "Check engine" malfunction lamp comes on. The first thing to do is to inspect the integrity of the DKPV itself, to make sure that the gap between the gear ring and the sensor is normal (it should be about one millimeter). The normal resistance of the sensor coil is about 600-700 ohms.

To solve the problem, it is enough to restore normal contact in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor (if the old one turned out to be faulty).

11. DTOZH is out of order

DTOZH is out of order - a sensor that controls the temperature of the coolant. The symptoms of the malfunction are as follows - the engine malfunction lamp comes on. If there is a break, then the electric fan of the system begins to rotate continuously. In addition, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the sensor itself.

If the engine power has dropped for this reason, then it is necessary to restore the quality of the contact in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor.

12. Failed TPS

TPS is out of order - a sensor that controls the correct position throttle(or its chains). As in the previous cases, the "Check engine" lamp comes on here. If there is an open circuit in the DPDZ circuit, then the engine speed usually does not drop below one and a half thousand revolutions.

The solution to the problem is to clean the throttle assembly and restore the quality of the contact connection in the entire electrical circuit. If the sensor is defective and cannot be repaired, then it must be replaced.

13. The DMRV is out of order

The DMRV is out of order - the sensor responsible for monitoring the mass fuel consumption. Here, the optimal action is to check the integrity of the mass air flow sensor or replace it with a serviceable device. If the failure of the mass air flow sensor is confirmed, then it is necessary to make an attempt to clean it, and if it is impossible to repair it, simply replace it.

14. Breakage of the knock sensor

Damage to the knock sensor. In the event of such a malfunction, the engine malfunction lamp must light up on the instrument panel. In addition, in the event of detonation DD failure, there is no detonation in any of the operating modes of the power unit and the engine power also decreases. With such a problem the best way- restore the integrity of the contact group in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor.

15. Breakage of the oxygen sensor

Breakage of the oxygen sensor or violation of its circuit. Such a malfunction is characterized by the "Check engine" lamp lighting up. In this case, the first thing to do is to check the integrity of the heating coil. First, the resistance is measured, and second, the voltage level at the output. Measurement can be done even without breaking the circuit - just pierce the insulation with needles.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is worth repairing the oxygen sensor, restoring the quality of the wiring and cleaning all the holes through which air is sucked in. In extreme cases, it is necessary to replace the oxygen sensor itself.

16. Depressurization of the exhaust system

It is easy to diagnose such a problem - it is enough to inspect the main elements while the engine is running at medium speeds. To solve the problem, it is necessary to replace the exhaust manifold gasket and stretch all the seals.

17. Failure of the ECU

Failure of the electronic control unit (ECU). Despite its reliability, the ECU can also break down (sometimes its software simply gets lost). To make sure that it is working properly (failure of the computer), it is necessary to check the voltage on the unit itself (the normal parameter is about 12 Volts) or replace it with a known working unit. If the control unit is found to be defective, then it may need to be replaced. In some cases, it is sufficient to change only the wiring.

18. Violation of clearance adjustment in the valve drive

The compliance of the parameters can only be verified by checking with special probes. If the clearances are not correct (written in the manual), then adjustments must be made.

19. Deformation or breakage of valve springs

In this case, you will have to remove the cylinder head and measure the length of the springs under load and in a free state. If broken or deformed springs were found, then they need to be changed.

20. Camshaft cams are worn out

Here, a visual inspection will be enough (after removing the necessary elements) and replacing the camshaft, if necessary.

21. The valve timing is broken

In such cases, it is necessary to check the fact that the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft coincide. If there is an "imbalance", then it is enough to establish the correct position according to special marks.

22. Low level of compression in the cylinders

Low compression level in all or some of the cylinders. The reasons include probable valve damage or wear, breakage or sticking of piston rings. To be convinced of suspicions or to refute them, it is enough to make the necessary measurements. If the suspicion is confirmed, then it is necessary to repair the power unit - change rings, pistons or repair the cylinders.

The above is only a part of the malfunctions due to which the engine power decreases. But in most cases, this is enough to diagnose the problem, fix it, and return much-needed traction to your "iron horse".

Sometimes the owners of products of the domestic auto industry are faced with a situation when the injection engine does not pull on the VAZ 2114. This problem is not uncommon, so we will try to thoroughly understand the reasons for the “weakness” of the engine and eliminate them ourselves.

List of possible causes of power drop

To quickly answer the question: why the engine thrust of the VAZ 2114 with 8 valves has disappeared from the first time, not everyone, even an experienced driver, can.

To do this, you need to consider all possible sources of damage:

• debris getting into the gasoline filter;
• blockage of the fuel pump diaphragm;
• malfunction of the sensor that controls the air flow;
• poor work of candles;
• a malfunction in the ECU (electronic engine control unit);
• dusty air filter;
• clogged nozzles;
• complete wear of the clutch disc;
• insufficient compression in the cylinders.

Analysis of the causes of poor engine traction and possible repairs

Dirty fuel filter

This may be due to low-quality gasoline (containing various small debris) or a rare cleaning of the fuel tank. In this case, you will have to completely replace the entire filter system.

Gas pump diaphragm clogged

As a rule, the cause of the blockage is low-quality gasoline. To clean it, you just need to take out the diaphragm and rinse it thoroughly or blow it out with air.

Malfunction of the sensor that monitors the air flow

This is the most common reason why the VAZ 2114 does not pull.

Malfunction symptoms:

• too high or low engine idle speed;
• intermittent engine idling;
• disturbed dynamics of acceleration. The car becomes uncontrollable and often freezes.

It is worth checking the operating condition of the air flow meter periodically to avoid wasting time and money diagnosing the engine.

Dusty air filter

The more the filter is clogged with dust, the less air enters the engine, therefore, the thrust decreases. What can be done in this case? Ideally, the filter should be replaced with a new one, but if this is not possible, remove the filter, tap and blow to remove large debris (flies, dry leaves, insects).

Clogged nozzles

If the injector nozzles are clogged, you will have to go to a service station for ultrasonic cleaning, or purchase a special cleaning fluid.

Auto mechanics advise to purchase only high-quality injector cleaning products, for example, Wynn's (Vince), LIQUI MOLY, Carbon Clean.

The procedure itself is quite simple: the cleaning agent must be poured into the gas tank. But this method can only help if the fuel system is not heavily contaminated. An engine with a mileage of several hundred thousand kilometers is likely to require a complete replacement of the injectors.

Complete wear of the clutch disc

Disk wear can be determined by the following criteria:

• the pedal is easily "sunk", but does not come back;
• the clutch slips;
• when the clutch is engaged, a noticeable vibration occurs;
• it is impossible to disengage the clutch.

There is another way to check for wear: if you try to move away in fourth gear and the engine stalls, then there are no problems with the disc. If the engine continues to run, then the clutch disc will most likely have to be replaced.

Poor candlestick performance

There are several signs by which you can determine if a spark plug is faulty:

• the engine makes an unpleasant noise when idling;
• a sharp press on the gas causes dips in power;
• the engine runs unevenly;
• increased fuel consumption with a decrease in power;
• the candles are filled with gasoline.

Visual inspection of the spark plugs can also help identify the problem. If the candle is covered with dark oil, has a gloss or velvety carbon deposits, then this clearly indicates a problem.

Defective spark plugs must be replaced with new ones.

Insufficient compression in the cylinders

This defect appears due to high wear of the entire cylinder-piston system. As a result, the car owner notices that the oil consumption increases, the combustible mixture does not completely burn out, and the fuel enters the crankcase. This problem is serious and is solved either by replacing the piston rings, or by completely repairing the engine at the station. Maintenance.

Malfunction of the electronic engine control unit (ECU)

There may be several signs of an ECU malfunction:

• various mechanical damage on it;
• lack of indicators from various sensors monitoring systems;
• lack of control signals for the fuel pump, the idle system of the machine and other mechanisms controlled by the ECU.

Unfortunately, this device cannot be repaired in most cases. Even service station specialists will offer to simply replace the ECU with a new one, after carrying out diagnostics.

Finally

The article lists all the possible reasons why the VAZ 2114 does not pull. It is possible for every motorist to independently analyze them and figure out the reason for the poor engine thrust. This will save you a significant amount of money compared to the cost of diagnostics at a service center.

Cars VAZ-2114, from the beginning of production, are equipped with eight-valve engines with a volume of 1.5 liters. Since 2007, they have been equipped with an eight-valve 1.6 liter engine with an environmental class Euro-4. The operation of the car, sometimes not correct, over time presents "surprises". not at full power, the thrust is reduced. Let's try to understand the reasons and methods of elimination.

The dynamics of the car, first of all, depends on the stable and stable operation of the engine. When the indicators of this characteristic decrease, this indicates that there are problems in the operation of the engine.

VAZ-2114 engine

Unstable engine operation is caused by the following:

• The fuel filter is dirty.
• The diaphragm of the fuel pump is clogged.
• Do not work or.
• Insufficient.
• The on-board computer is malfunctioning.
• The nozzles are clogged (you need to clean them or).
• The clutch disc is worn out.
• Malfunctions of sensors that control: the position of the crankshaft; coolant temperature; ; detonation.

This is only a part possible reasons due to which the engine can pull poorly over the entire rev range.

It is worth mentioning the fuel pump, which fails. The real state of affairs is determined by detailed diagnostics.

A brief analysis of the causes and their consequences for the VAZ-2114

1. Dirty filter fine cleaning ... Determined visually. Debris particles present in the fuel tank, gasoline accumulate in the filter, the channels are clogged. Insufficient fuel supply. "Treatment" - .

   Changing the fuel filter

2. The diaphragm of the fuel pump is clogged ... The reason is the same, there are dirt particles in the gasoline. Solved by excavation, flushing, blowing with compressed air

   We change the grid of the fuel pump

3. Clogged air filter ... For a short time, it is solved by blowing the filter, you can knock on a solid object. Ideally, the filter is replaced with a new one.

   We clean or change the air filter

4. Candles do not work or work poorly ... Determined by inspection, after unscrewing. One of the reasons - . The gaps are checked with a feeler gauge, the necessary one is installed. For this, the side electrode is bent to the required value.

   Checking the gap between the spark plug electrodes

5. Formed. The electrodes are cleaned with sandpaper (zero), cleaned, and the gap is checked.

   Cleaning spark plugs from carbon deposits

6. The serviceability of the spark plugs is checked on a stationary stand. If problems occur, need to be replaced.

   Candles are best checked at a stand in a car service

7. Insufficient compression in the cylinders ... This defect appears as a result of high wear of the cylinder-piston group. The result is increased oil consumption, incomplete combustion of the combustible mixture, and gasoline enters the crankcase. In some cases, it is sufficient to replace the piston rings, in others, an overhaul of the engine is required.

   We measure the compression in each cylinder

8. Failure or breakdown of the electronic control unit ... It is impossible to repair without special knowledge. Diagnostics is carried out with special devices. A flashing is possible, or the control unit changes completely.

   We carry out diagnostics of the control unit

9. Clogged nozzles ... ... There are additives in fuel, but they do not give much effect. Replacement may be required, so read the resource: ““.

   You can clean the nozzles at home.

10. The clutch disc is worn out ... In motion, with an increase in revolutions, the car does not pick up the required speed, slipping is felt. Expertly checked by starting off in fourth gear. If it stalls, everything is in order with the disk, if the engine is running, then there are problems. Solved by replacing the clutch disc.

    Illumination of the Check engine sensor indicates a malfunction of the sensors

conclusions

Maintenance (MOT), which should be carried out according to the manufacturer's recommendations, will avoid many problems. The only question is where to go, at the "kulibins", or at specialized service stations, equipped with the necessary equipment and apparatus. The choice remains with the vehicle owner. The sooner the prerequisites for the failure of a particular part are revealed, the less financial losses in the future.... It should be remembered that timely maintenance increases the safe operation of the vehicle.

Often beginners and not only drivers are interested in why the car does not accelerate and pull. Typically, this problem is related to the engine. At the first sign of a malfunction, it is advisable to carry out a detailed diagnosis of the engine. This will save you from a long search for a breakdown. Almost anything can cause a motor to lack thrust.

Owners of new cars often encounter this. If diagnostics fail to identify the problem, then you will have to suffer a little. This is connected and will pass to a run of 5000 km. Most often this is found in models of components that are assembled in China.

Wear of parts

Why doesn't the car accelerate and pull? In some cases, this may be due to a high level of engine wear. Usually seen on fairly old machines. Most often, the rings suffer, in connection with this, the compression falls. Therefore, the first thing to do when reducing power is. If even in one cylinder the indicator is less than 11, then the engine will have to be overhauled.

• Change in the ratio of gases in the exhaust;
• Burning on the panel "check".

Filters

Often the car jerks due to lack of fuel... Fuel filters are installed in every car. There are usually two of them. The coarse filter is either in the fuel pump, or it is embedded in the hose. A fine post-treatment filter is installed in front of the injector. If any of these cleaners are clogged, fuel cannot enter the injector sufficiently. This, in turn, dramatically reduces the efficiency of the car.

Ignition

A modern engine is quite sensitive to ignition work. Incorrect spark plug electrode gap can cause engine failure. And, accordingly, to a decrease in engine power. Therefore, always. You also need to check their performance at a special stand. It can also be done in a simple but reliable way.

For this, the candle is unscrewed. A high-voltage wire is put on it, after which the engine is cranked with a starter. The quality of the spark is determined visually. It should be white and blue. If the spark is red or yellow, it is considered poor quality. Look for a problem in the ignition system. This is most likely the reason for the loss of power.

Diagnostics

For a more precise definition of the problem, it is desirable. This procedure will help identify sensor and power problems. To do this, you need a laptop with a special program. Having deciphered the readings, you need to start troubleshooting. Most often, the reasons may be as follows:

• Malfunction of the crankshaft position sensor. With this malfunction, the "Check engine" is usually lit. A decrease in power occurs due to a mismatch between the impulse supplied to the engine control unit and the real position of the crankshaft. As a result, incomplete combustion of fuel occurs, and the efficiency of the motor decreases;
• ... This problem can also affect engine power;
• The reason may be due to. In this case, the check will not light up. Therefore, in any case, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics.

Conclusion... As you can see, there are enough reasons for the problem and they are all quite diverse. Offhand to say why the car does not accelerate and pulls will not be able to any auto repairman. In any case, you will have to carry out thorough and painstaking work to diagnose and search for the causes of the malfunction.

Self-diagnosis: causes of low engine power

Poor maintenance can result in reduced engine power.

Low engine power usually means that your engine is running out of power during acceleration, or that your engine is suddenly unable to reach its normal driving speed. While low engine power may mean that normal wear and tear is gradually taking away a significant portion of your vehicle's power, this manual deals with abnormal power loss - a failure caused by a system or component not working properly due to malfunction or lack of adequate maintenance.

A low engine power condition can be caused by one or more of a long list of components requiring attention. Fortunately, you can narrow the list a little by knowing that some of the most common causes of reduced engine power are related to the fuel delivery, ignition, or exhaust system.

Whether you are dealing with a faulty part or a lack of proper maintenance, the tests and strategies below will help you regain the power of your motor. The tests refer to various systems, specific faults and conditions known to reduce engine power. Finally, you are reminded of some important diagnostics that may apply to your particular case. Each component or condition mentioned includes a “What You Can Do” section so that you can take some action when you deem it necessary.

Systems that can cause low engine power

We'll look at the systems in order:

1. Ignition system
2. Fuel system
3. Exhaust gas system
4. Computer system
5. Vacuum leaks
6. Gearbox or clutch
7. Exhaust system
8. Compression

But first, I'm going to list some very simple checks that you should do before you start testing.

Four Checks You Must Do

Here are some important but simple checks to consider first.

1. If you notice right after doing some work on your car, make sure everything is plugged back in. Check for loose hoses, disconnected electrical connectors and loose bolts, and if fluids have been changed, see if the correct engine or transmission oil has been used.
2. ... With insufficient pressure, your tires will wear out faster, and the car will consume more fuel to accelerate the car. Check the tire pressure with a pressure gauge when the tires are cold. Inflate tires 1-3 psi. An inch below the maximum pressure printed on the sidewalls of the tires.
3. Even (CEL) did not light up,. Perhaps you have pending code to help you determine the root cause of the problem. A faulty sensor or actuator can cause the car computer (or transmission) to receive incorrect voltage signals, causing the computer to change the air-fuel mixture and drain power from your engine (or transmission). Whatever codes you find, always check the circuit or components indicated in the DTC. It is possible that the error could cause the computer to “think” of a failure in another circuit or component. On some models Vehicle a faulty camshaft position (CMP) sensor can cause a sudden loss of engine power - the computer will most likely set a code if it detects a problem with this sensor.
4. Many GM vehicle models are equipped with a reduced engine power (REP) warning light similar to the check engine light (CEL). When this indicator (or both) comes on, you will notice that the engine is barely responding to the accelerator. This is a scary situation if the problem occurs while driving on the highway or in heavy traffic. The most common triggers of this warning light are the harness connecting the throttle position sensor (TPS), or the TPS itself. Other problems that can cause the REP indicator to operate are related to the throttle body (including wiring), oxygen sensor, accelerator pedal position sensor (or wiring harness), or.

Testing eight systems that can cause low engine power

Now, here are eight systems that generally help reduce energy consumption and how you can test them yourself.

Worn or dirty plugs slow down the engine

Ignition system

Sluggish behavior of the engine can very often be traced back to worn or faulty parts in the ignition system. Several components in the system need service at regular intervals. For example, spark plugs and spark plug wires, but you should also check the ignition coil and ignition timing. If any of these components result in you not getting a good spark, the engine will not develop full power

What can you do: When you feel like the engine is not pulling, one of the first checks should be to check the spark strength. Use an adjustable spark tester (Thexton is an acceptable brand) to test the quality of the spark. Check for 40 kV and 30 kV. If your spark is unable to close this gap at these settings, you may have frayed wires, a weak or faulty distributor, a bad ignition coil, or a bad ignition control module, depending on your particular module. Check subsequent tests and refer to your vehicle repair manual for the correct diagnosis for your specific model. If you do not have a manufacturer's service manual, I highly recommend getting an after-sales service manual for your exact model.

When visually inspecting the ignition components such as the distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, look for traces of carbon, carbon build-up and damage (oxidation). Carbon footprints are like little lines that form around these components. They can shut off the voltage passing through the system, depriving the spark plugs of the required voltage to produce a good spark. Replace them if necessary.

After checking the spark strength, if necessary, check the following individual system components.

Spark plug

Spark plugs can be contaminated with carbon deposits (carbon deposits) and other chemical byproducts, especially if the vehicle is not being serviced according to the suggested schedule.

Dirty spark plugs cannot generate enough spark to ignite the air / fuel mixture. In addition, with high mileage, the gap between the electrodes of the spark contact will increase due to wear.

What can you do: Visually inspect the spark plugs, check the electrode gap with a feeler gauge and adjust if necessary. Your repair manual or repair manual has a suitable spark plug gap. Your service manual can help you analyze your spark plugs, which can tell a lot about the condition of your engine.

Just like spark plugs, spark plug wires wear out and after many kilometers they can prevent the spark from reaching the spark plugs.

What can you do: Check the resistance of each wire with a digital multimeter (DMM) and compare your reading to the specifications in your repair manual. Typically you need about 5000 ohms per foot of wire. If not, replace them with a quality set of wires.

Ignition coil

The ignition coil generates the high voltage required for the spark to bounce between the spark plug electrodes. This voltage is usually between 4,000 and 30,000 volts, depending on the specific vehicle model.

Ignition coils also wear out or fail, resulting in a weak spark, an intermittent spark, or no spark at all.

What can you do: You can check the ignition coil (s) in your vehicle with a DMM using your vehicle repair manual.

Ignition time

Ignition timing refers to the relationship between the spark and the position of the piston in the cylinder during the stroke.

The ignition timing must be correct for correct combustion of the air / fuel mixture. When the ignition is delayed, you may notice an increase in fuel consumption, a decrease in engine power, and poor acceleration.

Timing problems can occur due to a worn (overstretched) or damaged timing belt or chain. Even a 2 or 3 degree deviation from the correct time can cause engine problems.

On most modern cars the ignition timing cannot be adjusted directly, but you can still check the timing yourself. On older models, you can check and adjust the time yourself.

What can you do: Check the ignition timing using the timing indicator and tachometer. If your ignition system uses a distributor, you can adjust the timing yourself if necessary. Refer to your vehicle repair manual. Your manual may also include a service interval for a belt or chain.

A clogged air filter will reduce engine power.

Fuel system

While modern fuel injection systems can be configured in a variety of ways, they all share many common components such as fuel injectors, control modules, and sensors. Any of these components can fail and result in a loss of power in your engine.

The fuel system can be as much of a hassle for you as the ignition system. When the engine is not pulling, there are some details you should check.

The engine stops pulling, possibly the reason is in the fuel filter

Over time, the fuel filter becomes clogged, which reduces fuel consumption and prevents the engine from accelerating correctly or results in a loss of engine power.

What can you do: Check your vehicle manual or workshop manual for the fuel filter service schedule. Even if your filter is not the root cause of the problem, replacing the filter at the manufacturer's recommended interval will take stress off the fuel pump and extend its life.

Engine does not reach full power, air filter should be checked

When the engine is running, an air filter in the air purification system traps dirt, dust and other foreign particles and removes them from the air flow into the engine. Eventually the filter becomes clogged. A heavily clogged air filter will make your engine run much harder. You will notice this in the form of such an effect as poorly pulling the engine or a sharp drop in engine power.

What can you do: Most car manufacturers recommend every 12 months. Therefore, be sure to check the air filter and replace it if necessary. Refer to your vehicle manual or repair manual.

Poor engine thrust check the fuel injectors

The most common problem with fuel injectors causing a loss of engine power is a blockage. But they can also fail.

What can you do:

• On Throttle Body Injectors (TBI), you can check the fuel spray pattern in the injector by removing the cap from the air filter housing. Spraying fuel should be even and partially sprayed following an inverted V pattern. You can add fuel additive to clear a slightly clogged injector, or take it to your store for service. However, if the internal valve in the nozzle is broken and not just clogged, you will need to replace it.
• In a multiport fuel injection system, dirty or clogged injectors are more difficult to detect. Depending on the configuration of your particular system, it may be relatively easy for you to disconnect each of the injectors from their port to test their spray pattern. In other systems, disassembly is more difficult.

If you suspect dirty injectors or have not serviced the injection system for a long time, try adding a fuel additive to fuel tank... Otherwise, you may have to hand over your vehicle for an injector balance check, which measures the amount of fuel each injector sprays when power is applied.

The engine power has dropped, we are looking for the cause in the Throttle valve

Throttle valve malfunctions are not common, but they do happen.

What can you do: You can quickly check the throttle body to make sure the valve - the throttle plate - opens fully when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed.

• Remove the air ducts or air filter box cover to gain access to the throttle body.
• Ask an assistant to fully depress the accelerator pedal with the engine off.
• Make sure the throttle valve responds appropriately to the pedal.
• If not, adjust or lock the throttle rod or remove carbon deposits from the valve and throttle bore. Build-up can also interfere with proper valve operation.

The engine does not develop power check the fuel pressure regulator

A defective fuel pressure regulator can allow too much fuel to enter the engine or too little which can result in poor engine thrust.

What can you do: Check fuel pressure with a pressure gauge. The check could indicate problems with the fuel pump (low pressure or low volume), a clogged fuel filter, or a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

The exact procedure may vary from one engine model to another, but the general steps are the same:

• Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (this is a test fitting similar to the air valve on your tires). If your model does not come with this valve, you can still connect the sensor directly to the fuel line using adapters (see MR).
• Then follow the steps in the repair or service manual and compare the reading with the specification.

A defective EGR valve can reduce engine power.

The engine does not pull the reason in the exhaust system

Another possible, albeit not common, cause of loss of engine power during acceleration is a malfunction of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve.

The EGR valve allows the measured amount of exhaust gas to re-enter the engine at higher idle speeds to reduce heat and emissions.

When the EGR valve fails, it can get stuck open or closed. If a valve gets stuck (or intermittently stuck), opens, or does not work properly, the most common symptoms you will notice are rough idling and dips during acceleration but other times you will simply notice a lack of engine power when you press the accelerator.

What can you do: You can check the EGR valve at home using a hand held vacuum pump.

Computer system

As part of the computer system, both the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and the Manifold Air Flow (MAF) sensor affect the computer controlled air fuel mixture. Typically, the car computer stores the DTC in memory when a malfunction is detected using any of the sensors.

What can you do: even if the indicator Check Engine off, it is recommended that you scan your computer for pending DTCs. The most common problem with MAF sensors is a dirty sensor element. You can clean it with an electronic contact cleaner or MAF cleaner. Whether your car is equipped with a MAP or MAF sensor, you can check it at home. Refer to your vehicle repair manual.

Vacuum leaks can affect engine power.

Vacuum leaks or why there is a loss of engine power

Leakage can occur from a loose, damaged or broken vacuum hose, a burnt gasket, or a damaged throttle body gasket.

What can you do: A common technique for detecting a vacuum leak is to use a rubber hose:

• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Using a rubber hose, slide one end of the hose over your ear and the other end to listen to the various vacuum hoses.
• Trace the hoses with your diagnostic hose
• Check around the edge of the intake manifold and throttle gaskets.

A leaking vacuum hose or gasket will make a hissing sound and you can hear it with the rubber hose. Just be careful with moving engine parts when troubleshooting vacuum hoses.

Gearbox or clutch

If you have an automatic transmission and haven't checked your transmission fluid lately, it's time to do so. If you have a manual transmission, the clutch may be slipping.

A common symptom of low or dirty automatic transmission oil is slippage. Your engine is running, but your car is not moving. No power is sent to the wheels, giving the impression that your engine is running out of power. The same can happen in a car with mechanical box gears, when the clutch is worn, the force does not reach the wheels.

What you can do (automatic and manual):

Automatic transmission:

• Check transmission oil after the engine reaches operating temperature (drive or idle for 20 minutes or more).
• Stop the engine and let it sit for three or five minutes.
• Then pull out the transmission oil dipstick.
• Use a rag to wipe the tip of the dipstick with oil.
• Insert the dipstick completely into its tube and pull the dipstick out again.
• Let the dipstick rest horizontally on the rag.
• The oil level should be between the ADD and FULL marks towards the end of the dipstick. If not, add the required amount of the recommended fluid for your vehicle model.
• Check the liquid. It should have a distinct reddish color. If the color is opaque and brownish or black, or has a burnt odor, replace it. Refer to your vehicle manual or repair manual.

Manual Transmission:

• Park in a safe place, away from traffic and people
• Install emergency brake
• Start the engine
• Set gear to high gear
• Slowly release the clutch pedal fully for two seconds (so as not to burn the clutch disc or flywheel) and depress the clutch pedal again
• If the clutch is good, the engine should stall or stop as soon as you release the clutch.
• If the grip is poor, your engine will continue to run normally.

Generally, water and acid are the most common enemies of a car's exhaust system. But pollution, overheating of the system and high mileage can result in airflow restriction.

The most common victim of an exhaust system limitation is. In addition to failure or deterioration from normal wear and tear, internal catalytic components can melt due to overheating and contamination.

Once the catalytic converter stalls, you will notice a decrease in engine performance and, depending on the type of failure, a strong smell of rotten eggs coming out through the exhaust pipe.

But problems may not stop there.

What can you do:

Check your exhaust system for high back pressure.

Temperature test:

• After driving for about 15 minutes, park your car in the garage and turn off the engine.
• Raise the vehicle and attach it securely to the jack stands.
• Using a kitchen thermometer, measure the temperature of the inlet pipe on the catalytic converter (be careful, temperature may exceed 1400F).
• Take a reading of the exhaust pipe temperature on the catalytic converter.
• A clear temperature difference means a connected transmitter.

Rattle Test:
Depending on the type of converter installed and the type of malfunction, if the catalytic elements inside the converter have disintegrated, the converter will rattle when hit with a rubber hammer.

Pressure test:

• Remove the oxygen sensor in front of the converter.
• Install the pressure gauge into the threaded hole.
• Start the engine.
• Take pressure readings at idle and at higher speeds.
• A high pressure reading indicates a connected transducer or muffler.
• Unplug the muffler and repeat the test to find the obstruction.

Vacuum test:

• Connect a vacuum gauge to the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
• At idle speed, open and close the throttle valve, allowing the engine to reach a speed of approximately 2500 rpm.
• You should see the gauge pointer drop to near zero, return to a previous reading of about 5 inches Hg (inches of mercury), and return to a previous reading. If the needle returns too slowly to the previous reading, you may have a faulty exhaust system.

Worn cylinders or rings will reduce engine compression.

Compression

Poor acceleration can also cause compression problems in the engine. These problems are inevitable on engines with high mileage or those with a history of poor maintenance. And as miles accumulate, more engine power is lost due to wear on cylinders, rings and pistons, and carbon build-up around the valves. Rebuilding an engine can be necessary and expensive.

Your car repair manual can help you pass this test.

Final thoughts

You can avoid many energy-efficient problems and many other problems by following a proper regular maintenance schedule. The ignition system and the fuel system are often the main culprits for failure to pull the engine, but a number of components in other systems can also cause the same problem. This guide will help you find the source of the problem, fix it, and save money.