Homemade bicycle with a motor. Gasoline engines for bicycles: a new feeling of speed How to install a bicycle engine on a folding bicycle

DIY motorbike

I'm not a fan of high-speed driving: 40-50 km/h in the vicinity of the dacha is quite fast for me. And in order to move one hundred kilograms of “my majesty”, neither exorbitant power nor the elephantine mass of the carrying “piece of iron” is needed.

Someone will advise: well, take a fifty-kopeck scooter!

Firstly, the “stools” are a bit expensive. Secondly, in a village where there is a dacha, this is “equipment until the first breakdown” - it’s unlikely that 300 km from the city I can easily find an imported spare part if necessary.

Thirdly, the scooter weighs a lot: how can you transport it to your dacha in a passenger car? Drive under your own power? Not funny! After 300 km of travel I will be left without arms, without legs, without a fifth point...

Two “idlers” who have become related are going to the dacha.

When I was thinking about this, I came across the article “We’re riding standing up” in “Moto” No. 9, 2005. The author told how he adapted a “cheap” motor to a scooter. I was hooked and I rushed to the bike market.

But the trouble is, the sellers unanimously claimed that they were not releasing the “cheap” product now (maybe they were lying?). I don’t know how it would have ended, but I remembered “Mole”. The one that “lives” in my dacha and cultivates the soil for only two days a year: one in May, the second in September. Its 60 cc two-stroke is twice as powerful as the “cheap” one - 2.6 “horses” versus 1.3. Assembled with gas tank, muffler, manual starter, air filter and a gearbox. And I decided to adapt it to another “loafer” - a folding bicycle that had been collecting dust on the mezzanine for three years.

Gas lever (indicated by arrow).

I made a shelf from a 5mm duralumin sheet and installed it instead of the rear trunk. It is held in a vertical plane by two racks from an old bicycle. In the longitudinal one there is a hole with which it is put on the pipe; a saddle is fixed in the hole. A lateral stability The design guarantees a slope on the right side. The motor was screwed onto this fairly rigid structure with four bolts.

On the left of the steering wheel: 1 - clutch release lever; 2 - lock lever; 3 - ignition switch button.

The drive to the rear wheel was made by a belt, with a tension roller from the timing belt of the VAZ-V8. The drive pulley was left standard, and the driven one matched the gear ratio from the MB walk-behind tractor. It is aluminum, two-strand. On a lathe I cut off the extra stream - the one that is wider. How do you attach the pulley to the wheel? I found another pulley (the inclination of the side surfaces of most pulleys corresponds to the angle of inclination of the spokes), and made cuts in it with a “grinder” that coincided with the crosshairs of the spokes. I installed it exactly in the center of the wheel using a special bushing. I drilled holes in it and bolted it to the spokes through large washers. And I already screwed the driven pulley to it with three screws. The gear ratio turned out to be extremely successful. And one more thing: the drive pulley is double, and next to the engine on the shelf there is enough space for a small generator. Do you catch the thread?

Clutch mechanism: 1 - cable; 2 - plate; 3 - bolts - guide plates; 4 - roller; 5 - springs.

The Mole does not have a clutch mechanism. Why not transfer this function to a belt drive? To do this, the roller tensioning the belt was not fixed rigidly - it was constantly pressed by a spring. If you squeeze it and move the roller away, the belt slips. Here's your clutch! The clutch release lever is homemade. The free play of the plate with the roller is as much as 7 cm (this is with a margin - after all, the belt stretches out over time), and for motorcycle clutch levers it is no more than 2 cm. What happened can be seen in the photo. The disadvantage of the design is that you have to directly, without a reinforcing arm, “fight” with the springs of the tension roller. But this can be tolerated - my car does not have a gearbox, so I have to operate the clutch lever very rarely - only during starts and stops. The lever in the clamped position secures a small locking lever. It helps out when you need to disengage the clutch for a long time, for example, when riding “like a bicycle.” Instead of a clutch cable, I inserted a thin steel wire lubricated with lithol into the braid. The braid does not have sharp bends, so the wire moves easily in it. The main advantage of such a replacement is that the wire is much more reliable than the cable that is in short supply in the village.

The main component is under the baseball cap.

Front and rear brakes are regular bicycle brakes. The rest of the controls on the steering wheel are standard from the “Mole”: on the left is a “jammer”, on the right under thumb- gas lever.

Conducted tests in December. Starting the motor with a cord. I started using the pedals. Two or three turns - and you can forget about them.

By the way, the forced cooling fan of the “Mole” ensures that the motor does not overheat at low speed. I asked a car driver I knew to drive in sync with me to record the speed. It turned out that the “maximum speed” is over 60 km/h. But such a speed seemed dangerous to me - it was a bicycle after all. And at 40 km/h it’s pure pleasure! For this engine, “forty” is a walking mode. Any rise is a trifle for him.

This is how the driven pulley is attached to the wheel: 1 - driven pulley; 2 - machined pulley; 3 - bolts with large washers.

What did I get? What I wanted. In the trunk of my Zhiguli, it’s easy to put an individual folding vehicle weighing 32 kg (bicycle - 20, motor - 12), capable of moving “my majesty” at a speed of 60 km/h and a little faster. Assembly and disassembly takes five to ten minutes. Gasoline consumption is no more than 2-2.5 liters per 100 km. There is nothing to break in my design. In stock it is enough to keep a belt, one or two meters of steel wire and a tension roller from the “eight”! And as a last resort, there are pedals.

This is how the driven pulley is attached to the wheel: 1 - driven pulley; 2 - machined pulley; 3 - bolts with large washers.

Common data:

  • dry weight - 32 kg,
  • length - 1830 mm,
  • height - 1100 mm,
  • saddle height - 850-950 mm,
  • width - 600 mm,
  • base - 1230 mm,
  • ground clearance - 180 mm,
  • gas tank volume - 1.8 l,
  • maximum speed is more than 60 km/h.

Engine- “Mole”, displacement - 60 cm3, power - 2.6 hp, carburetor - K60V.

Transmission:
homemade belt drive, belt - 1400 mm,
drive pulley - standard 60 mm, outside diameter driven pulley - 255 mm
(optimal for wheel diameter 600 mm). Chassis:
folding bike "Impulse".

Tires:
front and rear - 47-507.

Brakes:
regular bicycle ones. Electrical equipment: not yet available.

A bicycle is a vehicle that allows you to simultaneously get to the desired point, take care of your physical fitness and turn every trip into a walk. There is no need to stand in traffic jams or crowd into a crowded subway car on your way home from work. It is environmentally friendly. But it also has a drawback: not everyone can overcome long distances. Still, physical fitness may not allow you to travel several kilometers without stopping. But a solution to the problem can always be found. In this case, you can make a motorbike with your own hands.

Peculiarities

Motorbikes can be purchased at the store. But they are quite expensive, and appearance however, it is far from what is desired. And this design weighs about 20 kg. This weight will make the journey much more difficult if the engine fails and you have to pedal. Such disadvantages can be avoided if you make a motorbike with your own hands.

This type of transport was widely popular among teenagers during the Soviet Union. But modern capabilities and tools allow you to significantly change an ordinary bicycle and create an original means of transportation. Experienced DIYers, when asked how to make a motorbike with their own hands, will answer that it is very simple. Almost anyone can cope with such an activity.

Types of engines

When getting started, you need to decide which motor is best for your bicycle. They come in two types:

  • Electric, which with the advent of compact but capacious batteries are becoming increasingly popular.

To create homemade motorbikes, gasoline engines can be used from a lawn mower, chainsaw and other tools and units.

Engine selection

Most often, an old chainsaw is used as the basis for making a motorbike with your own hands. Or rather, its engine. But here there are some restrictions. You should not take engines from small and light saws. They have too little power. Suitable for a bicycle is a motor whose power is above 2 liters. With. (or 1.5 kW). And the higher this value, the better it will be. But even at this value, the bike will be able to accelerate to 30-35 km/h.

When choosing an engine, you should also pay attention to the volume. In accordance with the Vienna Convention, this value should not exceed 50 cubes. Only in this case, rights and registration will not be needed vehicle. The motorized bicycle will fall into the category “bicycles with a suspended engine.”

Another advantage of such an engine is the absence of the smell of gasoline. The motor has virtually no smell, which allows you to store the bike at home. But there is also a drawback. It consists in the characteristic sound of a working chainsaw. The sound of a running engine will accompany you throughout the entire trip.

Connecting individual parts to the frame

To create a motorbike, you can use any rusty, folding one. A motorbike requires only a strong frame as a base. If one is not available, you can make it yourself. To do this you will need several pieces of metal pipe.

The motor is attached to the frame at the junction of the lower and seat tube. This is the most optimal, but not the only option. Sometimes you can see a motor mounted on the trunk. The main thing is that the fastening is reliable. During operation, vibration will be felt, due to which the motor may fall if it is poorly secured. It is recommended to use metal clamps for fastening. A set for a motorbike may include special perforated mounts. But their use is not at all necessary.

In addition to the engine, it is necessary to attach the battery and fuel container to the frame.

Connecting parts

Attaching all the parts individually to the bike frame is only half the job. Next, you need to connect all the elements into one system. Otherwise, a homemade motorbike will lose all its new capabilities.

The first step is to connect the motor so that it transmits rotation to the wheels. A special mechanism must be provided for this. There are two options for these mechanisms: with pulleys or chains.

Includes a pulley system. This is a simpler option. One pulley fits onto the motor shaft. The second is attached to the rear wheel hub. A tension belt is put between them. The disadvantage of this option is the shorter life of the belt (which stretches faster) compared to the chain. It is worth noting that V-belts in terms of their characteristics (service life) are not inferior to chains.

In the case of a chain drive, rotation from the engine to the wheel comes through the chain. On one side it fits onto the rear wheel sprocket. On the other hand, on a gear mounted on the motor shaft. Chain drives are more durable than belt drives. But it requires regular care.

The battery is connected to the engine ignition and brake handle. Next you can install the exhaust pipe. You can do without it, but the exhaust fumes will spoil the trip.

Electric motor installation

Using a gasoline engine when creating a motorbike with your own hands “kills in the bud” the idea of ​​an environmentally friendly vehicle. Therefore, models with electric motors. The development of modern technologies makes it possible to do this.

The principle of installing an electric motor is similar to that of gasoline engines. For this you will need, in fact, the motor itself, accumulator battery, control parts, controller.

Motor wheel

Another option that can be chosen when creating a motorbike with your own hands is installing a motor-wheel. This option Suitable for those with electrical knowledge. Connecting a motor-wheel requires certain knowledge, without which you can assemble electrical diagram it will be hard.

The motor-wheel sales package includes controllers, front and rear brake handles, the “Pass” system, Charger.

The battery produces direct current. The controller converts direct current into alternating current, which, in turn, will drive the wheel motor. When the wheels begin to rotate, the electric motor is activated. This is noted by the “Pass” system. There is a microswitch on the brake levers. It is necessary in order to cut off the power supply from the motor to the wheels during braking.

Performed according to the following steps:

  • The bicycle turns upside down. The rear wheel is removed. In its place will be a motor-wheel. It is attached in such a way that the outgoing wires are on the left (when looking in the direction of movement of the bicycle). Due to this, the direction of rotation of the wheel is adjusted. If the sides are swapped, the wheel will “travel” in the opposite direction.
  • The controller and battery are attached to the frame. The controller must be well isolated.
  • Next, the remaining parts are installed and connected.

Collecting electronic circuit, it is important to remember that the battery is connected through fuse(20 A is enough). It will protect the system from fire in the event of a short circuit.

Conclusion

As you can see, there are several ways to make a motorbike with your own hands. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Installing a motor on a bicycle does not interfere with riding in the usual way(pedaling). To do this, you just need to turn off the motor and clutch of the motorbike. This is very convenient when you want to take a leisurely ride and work on your physical fitness. A variant of a bicycle equipped with an engine (regardless of its type) is good option for people choosing an active lifestyle. It is both a recreation and a way to get around the city (and beyond).



I will write slowly, not all at once.
Motorbikes with trimmer
I became interested in motors after I rode an MTB with
Belt bicycle engine Comet. After Dashka, which I had then,
it was a culture shock, to say the least. The dash was sold, and in return
I bought a Stealth 850 mountain bike and a Comet 1.5 bike motor (1.5 hp, 33cc).
Then there was the story of a short commercial collaboration with Comet,
rides and disappointment in the belt system. I decided to build an indestructible
all-weather motorbike with chain drive. Well, I built it.
Design
was like this: a bent stand made of aluminum profile 20x5, gear
reduction gear 5:1, sprockets from a Chinese minibike, driven sprocket
was machined and screwed to the wheel hub, motor and pedal sprockets
divided the aluminum screen, some of the stars from the cassette were removed.


And on my first trip I went to the famous “race of the century”:



The motorbike performed well at the race, despite the fact that it had never been
never went. But, like most unproven designs,
on the way back it fell apart. And fell apart many more times while experienced
the fundamental flaws in the design were not eliminated.

More details about jambs:


Problem number one - the chain from a Chinese minibike stretched so quickly that
The length of the grooves for tensioning the chain became insufficient. Motorama to which
a motor was attached with a gearbox, it was converted to a stationary tension
roller with eccentric:



But this didn’t help at all - the chain continued to stretch very strongly, and even
and the roller was worn down. Installed a spring-loaded tensioner, more
The chain stretch didn't bother me. Those. the chain stretches the same way, but
The tensioner tightened it in time:



Problem number two - the aluminum stand burst due to vibration, broke 3 of them. Then I got tired of it and made a steel one (6x20).
It can be seen in the photo along with an improved tensioner on bearings:


In parallel with this, a strange phenomenon was present: when moving
when coasting at a decent speed, strong shocks occurred in the transmission,
I could not understand their nature until a certain moment. As it turned out, when
vertical position of the chain when coasting at the moment when the drive and
the driven branches of the chain switch roles, and the tensioner was pressed out for the entire stroke
pulling branch, the chain sagged under the driven star.
The sagging was caused by the fact that the drive sprocket when coasting
the motor slowed down the driven branch of the chain. As a result of the sprocket sagging in
one wonderful moment covered the star not with every link, but with
with the exception of some of the links, it turned out that the chain suddenly became shorter,
than the distance between the stars - at that moment there followed a stupid
hit. When the blows finally finished off and the steel rack I became
come up with a fundamentally different solution.


Long thoughts and
observations while driving helped to come up with a solution - an overrunning clutch between
motor and wheel! With this scheme, the leading and driven branches of the circuit
fundamentally cannot change roles, and, therefore, there will be no
the notorious chain slack. For one thing I decided to get rid of the crappy
Chinese stars and chains which the hell you can buy (this is at an extremely low
resource). No sooner said than done:


Bicycle freewheel on the gearbox shaft:



HVZ driven sprocket with 51 teeth (for the experiment it was screwed to the old one):

General form:


The decision turned out to be successful; all the attacks stopped. Driving has become very
it was great, the service life of the components increased, everything was cool. So I drove around
1000 kilometers.

The design inspired me so much that I decided to start serial production.


Several aspects are important for a production velomotor: availability
components, reliability, maximum easy installation, unification. IN
In connection with this, several modernizations were carried out:

Fastening
driven star to the spokes through a special shaped faceplate.
Involves mounting on any wheel with 32 or 36 spokes. For each
a special clamp was put on the knitting needle, which was attracted by a screw to
faceplate. The driven star was attached to the faceplate with screws.






I made a limiting screen on the driven star. He separated the pedal and
motor chain. Subsequently it was installed on both sides of the slave
stars. This completely eliminates the possibility of the chain jumping off the sprocket.





The stand was made composite. This made it possible to
adjusting the position of the drive relative to the wheel, the kit has become
Can be installed on almost any bike.




The adapter for the freewheel to the gearbox was made of steel instead of aluminum. The aluminum wore out quickly in the splines.


Caprolon tensioner rollers were made:



In this form, the kit turned out to be quite versatile and reliable. IN
At the moment of the start of sales, the set was named "Hare". The kit had
the following characteristics:

- Texas engines (2T, 1.5 hp - 33cc and 2 hp - 42cc) or Honda GX35 (4T, 1.6 hp - 35cc)
- Set weight 7 kg.
- fuel consumption is 1.5-2.5 liters depending on the engine.
- Maximum speed 52-58 km/h depending on the engine
- Easy pedaling of the bike while maintaining gears
- common and easily accessible consumables.
- all-weather and reliability

The kit also had some disadvantages:

- The quality of minibike gearboxes varied from batch to batch.
Some walked thousands of kilometers, some jammed, made noise, leaked,
came across crooked clutch cups

- The chain needs to be lubricated, and a lubricated chain gets dirty.
- The 3 leftmost sprockets must be removed from the bicycle cassette.
- The installation was quite complex; it required precise alignment of the stars and adjustment of some elements in place.


A total of 20 commercial "Hares" of varying degrees were made
modernization and configuration + 1 my experimental + 1 was
collected from a stash of spare parts for a friend. Total 22 pieces. Here is a photo
commercial copies assembled with bicycles:








For certain reasons, production had to be curtailed. But all
I still have the documentation, drawings, etc., so perhaps
the story will continue...


All sorts of crazy trips were made on "Hare" motorbikes. For example, bleonid and I went on two “Hares” to Yaroslavl:

A bicycle with a motor combines many advantages. This is a new generation device, which is a very high-tech mode of transport today. All this allows us to achieve the fact that technology is able to provide its consumer with many different opportunities. If you want to become the owner of a hybrid bicycle, you need to be prepared for the fact that such a miracle costs much more than ordinary bicycles. Sometimes their price even exceeds 150,000 rubles.

Homemade bicycle with motor

Therefore, many today prefer to make homemade bicycle equipped with a motor. Of course, you will have to spend a lot of effort on this, but you will be able to save some money.

Advantages of a bicycle with a motor

A motorbike combines a lot of advantages. Equipped with a motor that correct connection can work almost silently. In addition, the device runs on electricity (current can be created using a trimmer). This in turn ensures that nothing disrupts your journey along the road.

Due to the fact that the device runs on current, it is quite economical, because electricity costs much less than gasoline. Its price is almost 7 times less.

You can charge the device using a regular outlet. Moreover, if suddenly the charging is completely finished, this does not mean that you will have to continue walking. After this, the bicycle equipped with a motor turns into a regular bicycle. Movement on it is possible by pedaling.

Maneuverability and compactness

A motorbike has a huge advantage in city traffic jams. Thanks to its compact size and maneuverability, you can use it to get out of almost any traffic jam on the road.

Accelerates to fairly high speeds. Therefore, using such a bicycle equipped with a motor, you can get to your destination in a matter of minutes.

You can store it at home without any problems. The motor is easily removed, so the parts can even be stored separately.

Ease of maintenance

Maintenance of such equipment is simple and convenient, since you do not need to waste your time pouring gasoline, servicing filters, cleaning the trimmer, etc.

Spare parts are available for sale, so if one of the parts breaks, it can always be found and purchased.

However, there are also gasoline models that have their own advantages in some areas. You can buy them anywhere that sells motorcycles. But making such a device with your own hands is also quite possible.

We make the device ourselves

Not everyone can buy a motorbike, the price of which is very high. Therefore, many are interested in how to make this type of transport with their own hands. Naturally, to begin this process, you must have at least minimal knowledge in this area. In addition, first of all, you need to buy all the necessary parts that will be needed during the work process.

Option I: buy a wheel motor

Of course, you can buy a special wheel motor, which is already equipped with all the necessary parts. However, its price can hit your pocket hard, so there is another option, which we will look at a little later.

Along with the wheel, the kit includes a controller, gas handle, brake handle and charger, Pas system. A controller is required for conversion direct current, coming from the battery, into the variable. The Pas system activates the engine while pedaling.

Brake levers help the device brake quickly and effectively.

Installation

When installing a wheel motor with your own hands, you should perform these steps in strict order. Turn the bike upside down, then remove the rear wheel that was installed on the bike from the factory. When installing a new wheel, you need to make sure that the bundle with all the wires is on the left side of the bicycle. Otherwise, the wheel may spin in the opposite direction, which cannot guarantee the safety of the bicycle driver.

Once the wheel is completely installed, you will still need to install the batteries to the frame, as well as the controller. It is very important to provide additional insulation by wrapping it, for example, in a plastic bag.

Connect all other equipment. Prerequisite: connection to the battery must be made using a 20A fuse.

The bicycle with the motor is ready.

Option II: a bicycle with a chainsaw motor

This option is only possible if there is a broken chainsaw with a running motor. The fact is that you will have to spend a lot of money to buy a new chainsaw, since its price fluctuates around 20,000 rubles.

Any bicycle can be used, the main thing is that it is in good working order. A chainsaw with a 1.5 hp motor is quite suitable for a bicycle. The engine is mounted above the frame using a clamp, which can be purchased at any hardware store.

The bushing can be secured using special washers and screws.

To install the throttle lever, you need to install a special cable that will connect the motorbike lever to the engine from the chainsaw.

Using a regular trimmer can replace the controller, but a fuse is still necessary.

In conclusion

This way, you will be able to get a great bike, the price of which will not hit your pocket. With this type of transport you can move anywhere: be it in a big metropolis or on rural roads. This is an indispensable vehicle for trips to the country house or apiary, an excellent option with which you can organize the long-awaited fishing trip. The low price is mainly due to the fact that all the installation of parts is carried out independently.

This bike is also very maneuverable. It will bring a lot of pleasure to fans, although there are some disadvantages. The fact is that from now on you will have to be wary of yard dogs, who absolutely cannot stand the sound made by a motorbike.

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