The sequence of gluing car doors with noise insulation with your own hands. Tips for proper and high-quality soundproofing of car doors with your own hands

The vehicle contributes to increased comfort, as this insulation prevents the penetration of noise from the outside into the passenger compartment. It will not be possible to completely protect the car from sound penetration, but sound insulation can drown out a small and medium-strength sound.

Soundproofing treatment of any car is reduced to applying noise-absorbing layers to certain parts of the car body. Such processing can be conditionally subdivided into three zones - the front of the car, the interior, the rear.

Processing the front of the car comes down to soundproofing the engine compartment and the front wheel arches. At the rear, soundproofing is applied to the walls, floor and trunk lid from the inside.

Most of all, it is subject to sound insulation. It applies insulating layers to the floor, the wall adjacent to the engine compartment, the ceiling and doors. If the car is made in the body as a hatchback, then the soundproofing of the interior is combined with the processing of the rear.

Why do soundproofing of car doors

It is worth noting that automakers do not always pay attention to decent sound insulation, or simply save on it. And if a fairly high-quality material with good sound-absorbing properties can be laid on the floor, then on the doors of a car the processing is often very weak, although the sound penetrates through them very well.

Do-it-yourself soundproofing of car doors is a completely feasible operation if you know the sequence of actions and choose the right materials.

Soundproofing the doors makes the music in the car much better

One of the main factors that affect the complexity of the work is the presence or absence of elements in the doors. If there are no speakers, then it will be easier to process the door, and less material will be spent.

The presence of speakers in the doors will complicate the work somewhat, but the end result of the work on soundproofing the doors will lead to an improvement in sound.

Methods for soundproofing car doors

It should be noted that do-it-yourself soundproofing of doors will lead to another positive factor - due to the increase in the mass of the door due to the applied layers, they will close more easily and quieterly. But here it is important not to overdo it. A large number of soundproofing layers can lead to an excessive increase in mass, which can cause doors to sink or come off altogether.

Necessary materials

To complete the work, not so much is required:

Preparatory work

Next, let's look at the sequence of actions. The first step is to remove the door card. This must be done carefully so as not to damage it, as well as the elements of its fastening. If there are lifting handles, they must be removed from the shaft; the door opening handle can be left alone.

If there is factory soundproofing on the door, it will need to be removed from the door, and the speaker will also need to be dismantled, if any.

Before starting work, it is necessary to remove from the car door all elements that may interfere with the installation of noise insulation

Any car door consists of two walls - the inner one, which is closer to the passenger compartment, and the outer one. Often, car manufacturers apply anti-corrosion treatment to the outer wall, which will also have to be removed, for which you can use white spirit and rags. At the same time, it is necessary to remove the anti-corrosion treatment carefully so as not to damage the walls. After removing the treatment, the door will need to dry well.

This completes the preparatory work and you can start gluing the insulating layers.

Soundproofing car door frame

If a speaker is mounted on the outer wall in the door, a circle of anti-creak material can be glued in the area of ​​its location, which will have a positive effect on the sound in the future. But the entire surface of the outer wall should not be pasted over with this material, since it absorbs moisture well, which can lead to corrosion.

Video: Noise and vibration isolation of the car - part 1 - "Doors"

Next, we move on to the inner wall. On this wall, you also need to stick a layer of vibration isolation. Moreover, it will need to be pasted over on both sides. On the inside, the one closer to the outer wall, pieces of vibration isolation are glued to all accessible surfaces, but it is important to ensure that in the future they do not interfere with the operation of the door opening mechanism and glass lifting. After the sticker, it is better to immediately check their performance; if necessary, you can lubricate these mechanisms.

It is necessary to paste over the door from the inside

After processing the inner side of the wall, you can proceed to pasting the outer one, the one that goes to the salon. This side can be pasted over, together with the technological holes. After pasting, you will need to cut holes for the speaker, handles for opening the door and lifting the windows, as well as, if necessary, carry out all the necessary wiring.

Soundproofing the outside of the door

Then a noise-insulating layer is glued to the applied vibration isolation layer. It should cover the surface of the vibration isolation layer, after which the necessary holes should be cut in this layer as well. At this stage, it will be necessary to once again check the operability of all door mechanisms, and also install the speaker if it is attached to the door wall, and not to the card. After the soundproofing layer is glued, an almost closed space is formed inside the door between the walls, which will significantly improve the sound of the speaker system.

Video: Instructions for soundproofing car doors

Further work is done with the door card itself. It will first need to be glued to the vibration-insulating material, cut into thin strips. It is better to do this along the contour, as well as stick several stripes on the inside of the card. If it consists of two parts, both need to be glued. Stripping this layer will prevent the card from vibrating.

Then the entire surface of the card is pasted over with anti-creak material, with a small margin around the edges. After that, you can attach the card to the door. But before that, it is better to replace all fasteners with new ones, and also use self-tapping screws, but only in places where they will not be noticeable. This must be done because the old elements may not withstand the load and the card will move away from the door.

After fastening the card, the protruding parts of the anti-creak material must be cut off. Since trimming is done after the card is attached, this material will work for its intended purpose, that is, it will not allow the card to touch and creak on the door.

Next, you can check the fastening of all external elements on the card and, if necessary, glue them. This completes all the door soundproofing work. Soundproofing works with the rest of the car doors are carried out identically.

NOISE INSULATION OF CAR DOORS ACCORDING TO THE "PREMIUM" OPTION IN THE "ANTI-NOISE" STUDIO

WHY DOOR NOISE INSULATION IS NECESSARY AND WHAT DOES IT GIVE YOU?

Correct soundproofing of car doors is the first point of the program for stage-by-stage soundproofing of the passenger compartment. This is due to the fact that the total area of ​​all doors is large enough and is the largest among all other body elements. And the metal of the doors and roof of the car is the thinnest and devoid of stiffeners. This thin metal not only resonates during the operation of acoustics, vibrates from the impact of oncoming air currents at speed, vibrates along with the rest of the car body from road irregularities. It also freely passes the noise from passing cars and other noise from outside into the cabin. After all, it is much easier for a sound wave to pass through the thin metal of the door and the same thin plastic sheathing than through the more massive glass of the car!

Full-fledged and high-quality vibration and noise-insulating door processing allows you to really reduce the noise level in the car! You will no longer clearly hear the noise of cars standing nearby in a traffic jam or passing cars, the cabin will become much more comfortable and cozy, because by closing the soundproofed door you are truly reliably separated from the outside world in the cabin of your car.

In addition, as pleasant "bonuses" you will receive a significant improvement in the sound of the acoustics (even the standard one), because the door will become more rigid and there will be much fewer holes in it, and the sound of the acoustics will not freely go out through the outer metal of the door.

That is why soundproofing car doors is the most important stage in our work!

PRICE: RUB 10,000-15,000 for 4 doors

TIME: 2-3 hours

NUMBER OF LAYERS: 3-4 layers

WEIGHT: 1.3-1.8 kg per door

HOW DO WE DO NOISE INSULATION OF DOORS?

Obviously, for soundproofing the doors, it is necessary to disassemble them. To disassemble the door, first of all, its plastic sheathing is dismantled. As a rule, there are several pieces of standard factory "sound insulation" on the skin.

However, these pieces, which are scarce in area and thickness, are not always enough to protect the interior from noise, and the door trim from bounce and squeaks. In addition, the skins are sometimes made of such thin plastic that they rattle and resonate even at a low volume of the audio system. In this case, we apply small pieces of vibration isolator STP Silver to flat areas of plastic. This material, due to its weight and ductility, will significantly reduce the resonant frequency of thin plastic. You can use STP AERO, and any other vibration isolator with a thickness of 2-3 mm.

Since the free space under the cladding is usually sufficient for the application of materials of considerable thickness. The only requirement is that the material should not be rigid, so as not to push the trim away from the metal of the door in the places where they fit snugly. Therefore, we apply a soft and viscous sound absorber Biplast Premium, 20 mm thick, to the entire cladding area. The material is self-adhesive, embossed, soft, airy and effective over a wide frequency range. We leave holes for fasteners, wiring plugs and speaker.

Now we can put the trim aside and go directly to the soundproofing of the door itself ... And here the nuances begin. After all, the design of the doors of different cars can differ significantly. Here are the most common layouts ...

The easiest to disassemble is the door structure with holes in the inner metal, through which there is access to the outer metal of the doors. This door design is common on Toyota, Suzuki, Subaru, Chevrolet, BMW and many, many others. A door with the specified design is easier to disassemble, but more difficult to glue, because through the holes with their not always convenient location and sharp metal edges, full access to the volume of the door is sometimes possible. The holes are usually covered with factory-made polyethylene. It serves primarily as a steam and moisture insulation of the passenger compartment, because moisture is very common inside the doors. This can be seen even in the photo.

We remove the polyethylene, dismantle the speaker of the audio system and gain access to the volume of the door ...

It is through these holes that materials are applied to the outer metal of doors of such a design. However, along with this arrangement, another car door scheme is often found. Often, disassembling the door, you can see not the film and large "windows" under it, but a plastic shield that completely blocks access to the inside of the door. This design is found on Mazda, Kia, Hyundai, Jeep and many others.

This shield may also not be plastic, but metal. This door design is found on many Mercedes, Volkswagen, Volvo, Ford and the already mentioned Kia cars (recently, Kia's transition to plastic shields has been obvious). Sometimes this metal part is even riveted to the metal of the door with rivets, but these are quite rare cases (for example, Skoda Octavia A5 and some Mercedes cars).

In this case, you need to dismantle the glass or hang it in the opening, and then remove the shield, gaining access to the volume of the door. Disassembly, of course, takes some time and requires skills and preparation, but all this pays off with the convenience of gluing and the ability to apply the material to the maximum area, carefully and aesthetically!

For maximum clarity, it is on the example of such a door that we will show the technology of applying our materials to the outer metal, because the gluing scheme is the same for doors of any design. To begin with, the metal is degreased and dried. This is a prerequisite for proper sound insulation, and it is this that ensures reliable adhesion of materials and the durability of doors and a car body, because when materials are applied to a dirty and non-greased surface, air cavities will inevitably remain under the material, which will subsequently lead to the formation of condensation and corrosion in them. We degrease the metal with a special anti-silicone (for example, Body 770 or Novol 780). So, on a clean, degreased and dried surface, we apply the first layer. Its task is to damp the vibrations of the thin metal of the door. Therefore, the first layer on the door is a light and effective vibration isolator STP AERO. With a thickness of only 2 mm, it has a mechanical loss coefficient KMP = 0.33, and the StP Aero material is effective in a wide temperature range, from -10 C to +30 C. Aero, like any other vibration isolator, must be carefully rolled hard to the metal surface roller, only then it will work as efficiently as possible. There is no need to apply material to door amplifiers, double metal and other elements with a low resonant frequency (hard and “dull” to knock). There is no need to glue the drainage holes at the bottom of the door, it is better to step back a few centimeters from the edges of the door to avoid overlaps, moisture ingress and delamination of materials. The optimum area of ​​coverage of a thin-walled element with vibration-insulating material is 70%. More is possible, but the effect of this will no longer significantly increase.

Now you can move on to applying the second layer. There is usually enough space in the volume of the door, so even a material of considerable thickness can be applied there. Therefore, it would be wrong to neglect this layer. However, there are also limitations. As mentioned above, moisture often gets into the volume of the door: during rain and washing, water flows through the slots of the side windows, moisture from the warm and saturated air quickly condenses on the cold metal. And that is why the soundproofing material for the second layer must have a moisture-resistant adhesive layer and not absorb water. After numerous experiments, the following material was developed: this is the STP Accent Premium 10 mm thick sound absorber. The material has a moisture-resistant sealant instead of an adhesive layer, and also has a closed-cell structure that does not allow it to absorb moisture. The question arises, how can a closed-cell material work for sound absorption, because in this case it works as a sound insulator ?! However, everything is pretty simple. StP Accent Premium is needle punched, which reveals part of the cells on the surface of this material. Subsequently, the front surface is covered with a film that prevents moisture from entering the open cells, but does not interfere with sound waves entering these cells. So, apply the second layer to the outer metal of the doors.

Now that two full layers of effective materials are applied to the outer metal of the doors, we put in place a plastic or metal shield and fix the glass. If the shield is plastic, it is usually made of thick and massive material, has many ribs and bends, and it is on it that the guides, the window motor and other parts and assemblies are fixed. All this gives it additional rigidity, which means that it does not need vibration isolation. If the shield is metal, it is not only impractical to glue 100% of the shield surface, but it is also harmful. After all, then the technological holes for removing the glass, all the wiring and fasteners of the shield itself are closed. Thus, if you later have to disassemble the door for repair (problems with locks, power windows, body repair, glass replacement, etc.), then you may encounter problems. Therefore, it is enough to apply a vibration isolator to the flat areas of the shield and close all existing through holes with the same material.

If the door has a design with "windows", and not a shield, then we replace the standard plastic film with a vibration isolator, closing all openings with it. In this case, if access to the door is required, it will be necessary to slightly warm up the vibration isolator and remove it in the desired place on the door.

Now we can replace the plastic door trim that we had processed earlier, and after the final assembly and checking the functionality of all circuits (lighting, power windows, locking locks, etc.), the sound insulation of the doors is over!

In the following articles, we will tell you about the sound insulation of other elements of your car using our technology!

You can learn more about our technology of car noise insulation from the videos shot in the studios. ANTI-NOISE!

If you have any questions - just call the nearest studio ANTI-NOISE! Contacts of all our studios can be found in the corresponding section of our website -. We will be happy to help you!

There is a lot of noise coming through the doors to the salon. Correct soundproofing of car doors will help to significantly reduce it. This process is not complicated, so you can do it yourself.

Materials required for work

The result expected after all the work has been carried out:

• reduction of road noise by 40%;
• doors will close quieter with a dull sound (due to an increase in mass);
• the sound quality of the audio system in the cabin will be significantly improved.

As materials for the upholstery of the passenger compartment, a variety of materials are used, which have an adhesive base and are made on the basis of mastic or bitumen.

Let's list the main groups:

1. Bimasta. They consist of two layers - mastic and bitumen. This is a modern material that was developed 2 years ago. During this time, it is actively used as a sound insulator. They are from 2 to 5 mm. And they differ in external coating: fabric, aluminum, paper.
2. Vibroplasts. They have good elasticity. They have three layers - the bottom adhesive layer, foil and water-absorbing polymer. The most common brand is vibroplast M2. No heating required during installation. Sold in sheets of 75x53 cm.
3. Visomat PB 2-3.5 has an adhesive base. The second layer consists of a mixture of bitumen and expanded polystyrene. It is protected by a special release liner. Such a composition helps to damp the vibration of the door elements. For installation, you will need a building hair dryer to heat up the Visomat. Can be used at large temperature ranges - from -40 to + 70C. Before applying to the surface, it must be degreased with gasoline, White spirit, and dried. First, the corner of the gasket is removed and the sticky side is applied to the surface. Then a part of the sheet is warmed up with a construction hairdryer, the peeled off part is also pressed to the surface and glued. It is necessary to smooth the material well so that all the air comes out. You must immediately cut the pieces correctly, because then it will be difficult to peel it off. You can use a Visomat with a thickness of 2 mm. In the store, sheets are sold in the size of 75x35 cm.

The material is selected with the goals in mind. If you need to improve the sound of the audio system in the cabin or just remove unnecessary sounds, the upholstery can be minimal, standard and maximum.

If you have simple acoustics and you are not a fan of loud music, then you can use Visomat MP or Bimast Super and cover only the flat parts with them. If there is a powerful audio system in the car, then the entire inner side and technological holes, too, are covered with the same materials.

Material advantages:

• environmentally friendly;
• no fumes harmful to the body;
• affordable price;
• optimal dimensions, thanks to which you can immediately cover a large area;
• wide range of temperatures for operation;
• does not absorb moisture, as a result there will be no corrosion and mildew.

Dismantling the door and its components

The first step is to disassemble the door.

To work, you will need the following materials and tools:

• screwdrivers for parsing the door;
• construction knife;
• degreaser;
• insulation material.

You need to remove the old upholstery in order to gain access to all interior parts. The difficulty at this stage is that you need to remember which screw was in this hole. But even here you can get out of the situation using scotch tape. They can glue the unscrewed screws and then nothing will be lost.

The window lifter and opening mechanism do not need to be disassembled. These elements will not interfere with sound insulation in any way.

After disassembly, it is necessary to clean all metal parts from dirt and degrease with White Spirit. During the cleaning process, the most important thing is not to scratch the factory paint, otherwise corrosion may form.

Vibration isolation of doors

It is needed to absorb its own sounds from vibration of doors, as well as to reduce noise from passing vehicles. We paste over the inner side, which is from the side of the road.

Suitable materials for vibration isolation are:

• StP Aero or Aero Plus;
• Vibroplast Gold;
• Bitoplast;
• Visomat;
• Bombs Premium;
• Accent Premium.

Unfortunately, the installation of AutoSound requires its own approach to soundproofing doors. Standard generally accepted sound insulation will not work here because the principles in the approach and requirements are completely different. Today we will have not only a theory of soundproofing front doors for the installation of car audio, but also small photos of practical examples. I will try to tell you not only the theory of how to properly prepare the car door, but also how to practically apply our theory in practice. Let's start by talking about what conditions we need to comply with so that our car midbass at the door starts playing with maximum efficiency.

First, the speaker must be firmly and firmly attached to the door.

If it dangles, then our speaker will lose very much in sound quality and we will get unnecessary rattles and so on.

The second point is that the speaker must have enough free passage of sound in front of it. That is, if we have a certain grid, standard, then it must be enlightened, so that our dynamics does not interfere with playing, and so that it expels air and reproduces sound without loss, and the air does not got under the skin, so that our skin again does not rattle again.

Also, it is important to take into account the conditions under which the speaker plays backward (inside the door). If the speaker is installed in some kind of podium or in a number of spacer rings, then they must expand from the speaker back. This will allow air behind the speaker to flow unobstructed into our door volume.

An important point will be the volume to which the speaker plays. At home, our speakers play at certain volumes, which are quite small in comparison with automobile ones. In a car, this is a certain volume, on average, from 30 to 50 liters, depending on the car, while this volume is not sealed, it has a number of drain holes at the bottom, it also has other openings for air outlet, in case the speaker is actively working on bass and actively compress-decompress the air that is in the doors.

But the key point is in the preparation of the doors, as for the volume on which the speaker works - it's not even the volume itself, but how hard this volume is, how much the walls of our actually cabinet under the speaker, which we build from a door or case, will be rigid and how they will provide dynamics, high response, especially in the low-frequency path.

So, in order for the speaker to play well in the door, we need to provide free air passage in front of the speaker, free air passage behind the speaker, ensure the rigidity of the speaker itself and the rigidity of the volume on which the speaker plays. Of course, there is also such a factor as the speaker turnover, and sometimes the speaker turnover can play a plus and a minus, but there will be a separate issue about this.

Now, let's try to put our theory into practice. And I will give you an example of the usual noise and vibration isolation of the door, with which 95% of cars usually drive. And I will also tell you why it is not optimal, not correct and not suitable.

Suppose we have a certain door, standard, Our car door is divided into 3 parts:
1.This is the outer part, the outer part of the metal
2. The middle part of the metal or mounting plate.
3. Sheathing.

The speaker should be installed so that it plays the volume between the outside of the door and the middle. That is, in the box that we build, on which the speaker plays, this is the volume that we get between the outer part of the door and the middle part of the door (or the mounting panel

If we take the average door, then usually how it is done:

If we take an average door, then usually how it is done: a certain layer of vibration isolation 2-3 mm is glued to the outer part of the metal. After that, on this layer of vibration isolation, a kind of noise-suppressing material such as a splan is glued. Further, on the middle part of the door, a certain layer of vibration isolation is also glued, then a noise-suppressing material or some kind of porous material such as paralon on an adhesive basis is glued to the casing.

The speaker is installed on a primitive spacer or directly screwed to the door and the lining is put in place without changing the grille itself.

So, as for the outer part of the door - in the standard version it is a certain layer of ordinary vibration isolation and a layer of noise-absorbing material. By and large, this design of the outer part of the door is incorrect. The usual vibration isolation, which we glued to the outer part of the door, is not enough to get sufficient rigidity from the door. At a good temperature outside in the sun, this vibration isolation will become soft and it will lose its properties, especially in terms of rigidity. Therefore, in order to work with the car and do the correct preparation of the doors, it is advisable to use vibration isolation, which requires heating with a technical hairdryer before rolling it out. Many brands have such vibration isolation - almost all manufacturers that are on the domestic market. It costs a little more, but the difference in price is quite insignificant. And to spend a little money in order to get a full return from your music system is not a big waste in my opinion.

A well-prepared exterior of the door will keep your car quiet outside as well.
That is, listening to music loudly, it will be heard much less "outside".
Many are afraid that the door, with an abundant amount of vibration isolation, will sag.
In my practice, I have not seen this. And even if you imagine that this will happen, then the loops are simply tightened.

In fact, we have to apply vibration isolation, which requires heating, to the outer part of the door, you can even do it in 2 layers.

First of all, in order to understand how many layers you need, you need to pay attention to how loud you listen to the system and the louder, the more carefully you need to approach the preparation of the doors. And the second point is the thin outer metal in the car. The more modern a car is, the more its metal resembles foil.

Therefore, for the treatment of such surfaces, it is better to do with not one layer of vibration isolation, but two layers. Vibration isolation should be taken with a thickness of 4 to 5mm. After you have processed the door with some kind of rigid vibration isolation, which will allow our sandwich made of metal and vibration isolation to remain rigid even with strong heat in the sun, while ensuring the maximum return from the midbass, you will get the maximum return from the speaker and its correct operation.

Many people will try to stick a soft noise-canceling material on top of this vibration isolator - I do not recommend doing this. Such material will degrade the performance of the speaker. In any case, this is extra work, extra spending, and most importantly - it will not bear any benefit and even cause harm.

If you have already done some kind of vibration isolation in a car, for example, with a layer of ordinary vibration isolation that does not require
heating and you need to finish the door, then you just need to stick more
rigid vibration isolation. In this way, actually make 2 layers, and the fact that one of these layers will be soft enough when heated is not the most critical factor, since the second layer will correct this blemish. And this is more than enough for a very powerful low-playing midbass.

Very often there are cases when people, in addition to vibration isolation, stick additional aluminum profiles on the outer part of the door in order to make the door rigid. In my opinion, 2 layers of rigid vibration isolation make the door concrete so much that these manipulations of course will not do any harm, but there will be no significant benefit or return from them, therefore, this is at your discretion, but in my opinion it is superfluous ...

As for the middle part of the door, or, to put it another way, the mounting panel, it can be divided into 3 types:

This is our classic middle part, which contains a certain hole for the speaker, and also contains some technological holes on its surface.

The second type is when this door has a second hole for the speaker, and the rest is solid, without any holes.

And the third type is when the middle part of the door is simply not there, but in fact, sheathing is put on its outer part.

As for the third option, it is the most deplorable, since there will be no options to make a grammatical high-quality sound, or you will have to make many compromises. You can try to make the middle part of the door from a sheet of some metal or fiberglass, that is, in fact, re-make a new door design, which is a very laborious process and it is quite possible that on many cars this simply cannot be done physically.

Or the second option is to try to vibrate our skin as much and hard as possible so that it is as heavy and rigid as possible.

In any case, this version of the door for car audio is not the most successful. If we are talking about the middle part of the door, which has a hole for the speaker, and the rest of the surface is solid or there are practically no holes, then from the point of view of the sound quality that we can achieve, this is the most optimal option.

In order to prepare such a mounting panel, just some kind of vibration isolation is enough, preferably again rigid, so that the middle part of the door, which is also the wall of our box, would be as rigid as possible. Just rolling it with the usual rigid vibration isolation will be more than enough to get the maximum effect and maximum return on the potential of our midbasses.

And if our middle part of the door has some holes in addition to the hole for the speaker, then
you need to do something with them. In the usual case, these holes are simply sealed with vibration isolation and left untouched. In fact, when the speaker starts to play, even if the weather is not the hottest, that part of the vibration isolation that is glued over the hole will start playing together with the speaker and the speaker will begin to squeeze out this vibration isolation - this will possibly lead to unnecessary rumble of the casing, and also worsen the low-frequency potential of our the dynamics are very strong.

The best way out of the situation is to cover these holes with some materials. There are many options here - someone will use some kind of aluminum plates that are cut in the shape of these holes and glue them onto a hermetic or bolted, someone works with fiberglass. And perhaps some more alternative options with some kind of textolite or thin, but tough plywood sheets. As a result: in the middle part of the door you should leave the only hole - this is the hole where our midbass will be installed.

All other openings should be closed as much as possible. If you have some small holes through which some rods and other mechanisms related to the functionality of the car can pass, then they are allowed to be left - the main thing then is to ensure their small size.

After we have blocked our door with all kinds of plates, we glue our rigid vibration isolation on top and we get a certain box in which our midbass will work. And this box, despite the fact that it has some kind of additional drain holes inside the door, it will still remain rigid and we will get the maximum return from our midbass, high-quality, loud, on the low-frequency path.

If we perform vibration isolation as it is "GENERALLY accepted", then our midbass, in addition to playing out the outer part of the door, will also be due to vibration isolation, which is glued to the top of the holes - to squeeze it out, in fact, the speaker will begin to "fall through" ... We will very much and drastically lose its potential in the low-frequency path. Of course, if you listen very quietly, then often such vibration isolation may be enough. But if we have a system that can play at medium volume and at high volume, then it is better to provide the door with the most literate preparation.

As for the cladding: with the standard version, at best, some noise insulation is glued to it and the cladding is in place - this is not entirely correct.

The fact is that many skins contain rather large flat surfaces. These surfaces can resonate along with the midbass and produce all kinds of sounds and overtones. It is optimal to glue this entire skin of ours with some vibration isolation, not necessarily even rigid (2-3 mm is enough), glue it in places or completely. After that, as much as possible, stick on the noise-insulating material.

If the trim is not fastened well due to the fact that we have filled a lot of noise-proofing materials, then
try to get out of the situation by using the so-called disposable anchor-type rivets.

This is not an expensive pleasure, which is sold in almost any spare parts store, but at the same time the trim will snap as tightly and rigidly as possible to the middle part of the car door.

Please note that if we install the speaker in its regular place, then it starts playing through the regular mesh of our casing. Often, these grids are so deaf, and in some cases have a smaller radius of holes than the speaker itself, which is installed behind the door, then we have to modify this regular grid or completely cut it out and put on some kind of freelance "grill", or brighten those holes that we are.

The usual radio fabric comes to the rescue in such operations, which, if you enlighten the standard mesh in an ugly way, will help to avoid the problem with the external, not beautiful appearance of the mesh, which you might have got. Please note that the speaker should be installed as close to this hole (to the grid) as possible. In this case, please note that the speaker has a certain course, it should not hit the casing itself.

When you make a spacer ring and if it turns out to be significant enough in depth, then it is advisable to make it for expansion, so that the sound from the speaker quietly passes inside the door without restrictions and obstacles and without the "tunnel effect" when the speaker is installed in a certain pipe.

At the same time, you can often find a situation that the standard hole in the car for the speaker itself is not very large in size. At the same time, the speaker is larger than this hole, some spacer rings are present. Thus, if you do not modify this hole and expand it, then you can get the effect that the air flow that will go back will not fall into our volume, not inside our case, but will fall just into the edge of a small hole, which smoothed under the speaker. If possible, such holes should be modified and enlarged.

As for all kinds of acoustic lenses that are glued behind the speaker inside the door.

There are many different opinions about this. And I have it. I experimented with all sorts of lenses and I did not get any significant influence from them and the difference. The sound didn’t get any worse, no better. Or if it did, then it was on the verge of some nuances that are not even audible in the car.

So, our literate prepared car door should look like this:
- this is the outer part of the metal, on which rigid vibration isolation is glued, possibly even in 2 layers.

This is the middle part of the door or the mounting panel, where all openings must be covered, and this part of the door must be vibration-insulated with the same rigid vibration insulation.

And our skin, where we brightened the standard mesh, if it is deaf enough, was treated with lighter vibration isolation and with a lot of noise-absorbing material, which will not only deprive us of unnecessary noise that will come from under the skin, but it will also lead to the fact that we will be deprived of unnecessary bounce, which can be produced by the casing

It turns out that there is nothing difficult in competently preparing a car door for installing a midbass.
The greatest difficulty can be caused by the fact that it is often a laborious task to close the holes,
although not so difficult. Unfortunately, at the same time, most of the doors that I meet in my life, since a large number of cars come to me for tuning, including these cars are made by the owners themselves, and in some expensive studios, but in practice it turns out that all the doors made not of high quality. It is very rare to insert a good literate prepared door.

A few points that we must take into account - the volume in which the speaker works must be rigid,
the speaker must be rigidly fixed and the speaker and nothing should interfere with either in front of the speaker itself in
air passage or behind the speaker.

# car audio # noise insulation # noise insulation of doors # noise # vibration isolation of a car # how to noise insulation of a door

The soundproofing process is an integral part of a high-quality installation of an audio system in a car. Many car enthusiasts begin their acquaintance with noise insulation precisely in the process of installing higher quality audio components. This article discusses one of the options for soundproofing car doors and installing an acoustic frontal system.

To ensure high sound quality of the acoustics installed in the car door, it is necessary to ensure the following conditions:

• Vibration isolation of the outer and inner surfaces of the door, to exclude bounce and overtones when reproducing low frequencies
• Creation of an enclosed volume inside the door for deeper and more detailed sounding of the acoustics
• Rigid speaker attachment to the door surface for increased recoil and louder sound
• Soundproofing the door itself to reduce noise from the street
• Vibration isolation and anti-creak treatment of door trim, to exclude bounce and noise at high volume

This process is considered on the example of installing acoustics in the front doors of a Peugeot 307. A prerequisite is the preservation of the integrity of the trim and the appearance of the passenger compartment.

Carefully remove the trim and see a picture typical of most cars - a weak speaker attached directly to the trim. Such an attachment does not provide the required rigidity. Therefore, at high volume, the skin begins to swing, causing resonances and overtones, and the return of low frequencies decreases. In addition, the speaker does not play on the volume of the door and the sound propagates under the trim.

1) Manufacturing of spacers for acoustics

To rigidly mount the speaker directly to the metal of the door, it is necessary to orient the speaker so that its center coincides with the center of the ring on which the standard acoustics are attached. Cut out their cardboard template for centering and making the base of the spacers.

One template is used to transfer the markings to the door, the other (slightly smaller in size) - for making the base.

Draw a circle on the door and cut out the metal. This is necessary to ensure the operation of acoustics for the volume of the door. The emitter itself should be as close as possible to the mesh in the skin. Therefore, we set up the following construction from plywood rings.

At the top point, we use an additional spacer to increase the rigidity of the mount.

2) Vibration isolation and noise isolation of the door

Apply Bimast Standard to the outer side of the door (which is closer to the street). We use small pieces so that they go into the technological holes. We glue about 50-60% of the area. Particular attention is paid to the stiffeners. The place opposite the hole in the door for the speaker is pasted over with Bitoplast 10mm (the size is slightly larger than the hole) to prevent standing waves. Noise insulation of the outer surface of the door is not performed. Sound-reflecting material (such as SPLEN) will re-reflect sound waves, and noise absorbers will absorb. Therefore, we leave only the vibration isolator.

On the outside we glue the Bimast Super, closing all technological holes, except for drainage and ventilation holes. The material requires good heating with a hairdryer.

Before installing the spacer, foaming the gaps between the base and the door. After trimming the excess, we seal the joints with Vibroplast M1 (Gold). The podium itself is rigidly fastened to the bolts.

The final touch - we install the speaker and glue a 10mm Bitoplast O-ring around the circumference. The ring should act as a seal between the door trim mesh and the speaker.

3) Vibration isolation and door trim sealing.

Using Vibroplast M1 (Golg) as a vibration isolator, we "muffle" all flat surfaces of the skin. Because the door card on this machine consists of several parts, we additionally isolate all seams and places where the trim parts are attached to each other.

After that, cover the entire surface with Bitoplast 5mm. We glue the edges with an overlap, then cut off the excess "flush". This will eliminate the squeak of the trim on the metal of the door.

It remains to put the trim in place. It may be necessary to replace the fastening caps with new ones. This completes the installation process.

Consumption of materials:

• Bimast Standard - 1 sheet
• Bimast Super - 1 sheet
• Vibroplast M1 - 1 sheet
• Bitoplast 10mm - 0.5 sq.
• Bitoplast 5mm - 0.5 sq.