Replacing anti-roll bar bushings. How to change stabilizer bushings on different car models? What is stabilizer bushing

The anti-roll bar is an interesting thing. Its main feature is that it is often underestimated by motorists, especially those who have recently been driving or have not seen anything cooler than a nine with leaked shock absorbers. Indeed, it can be removed and thrown away altogether - the car will still drive. True, it's bad.

What are bushings and why are they needed

The main task of the bushings is to reduce the noise of the suspension while driving and to attach the stabilizer to the car body. They are usually made from two materials: polyurethane and rubber. The parts have high elasticity and strength, which is why there are no squeaks and knocks when the height of any of the wheels changes. In addition, it is impossible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the body, since the distance from the attachment point to the edge of the stabilizer changes during bending.

Often, various sounds arising from movement and sharp turns - squeaks, knocks, and so on, can indicate a malfunction of the bushings. This phenomenon is associated with the loss of elasticity of the sleeve, as a result of which it becomes very rigid. Also, dust or sand can accumulate under this part.

Stabilizer design features

In the field of mechanical engineering, the stabilizer appeared along with the first cars, the maximum speed of which exceeded the 20 km / h mark. Due to the large rolls that occur when turning, it became necessary to install this component. The main purpose of a stabilizer is to protect vehicle from overturning, since during the turn the load on the outer wheels increases, and on the inner ones, on the contrary, decreases. This causes the machine to rock. The stabilizer makes it more stable on the road, preventing it from rolling over.

On a note! All car suspensions are equipped with a stabilizer, not only in the front, but also in the back. The stabilizer is not needed only if a torsion bar is installed at the rear of the car: the stabilizer functions will be assigned to the suspension itself.

The design of the stabilizer on many cars is a U-shaped metal bar made of spring steel. To attach the device to the body, special clamps and bushings are used to allow the stabilizer to rotate. For greater stability of the car and increase the elasticity of the stabilizer, bushings are used - all the shocks from various suspension elements fall on them.

Stabilizer bushings. Malfunction symptoms. Consequences.

For the best damping of vibrations and forces acting on the car body, the vast majority of suspension elements are connected by means of elastic elements. The same goes for the stabilizer. For its fastening, special bushings (rubber bands, pillows) made of durable rubber or polyurethane are used. Over time, as the vehicle is used, these bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose their elasticity. This results in unsatisfactory operation of the stabilizer =. More serious defects may begin to appear, which will only grow faster over time.

The first symptom, foreshadowing the replacement of the bushings, will be a slight knocking of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed with "tired" shock absorbers. Only in the case of bushings, it will be heard not only on pits and bumps, but also when entering relatively sharp turns. At the same time, the car often feels excessively wobbly and sluggish. The resulting knock will be the result of a backlash in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to worn out bushings.

If measures are not taken in time, the knocking will only intensify in the future and will begin to accompany the work of the suspension everywhere due to the increasing deformation and destruction of the bushings. Body roll and excessive play in the steering wheel may occur. It is possible to "yaw" the car not only in corners, but also in cases of braking or lane change. Most automakers advise to change stabilizer bushings every 30-40 thousand run. However, in our conditions it is better to focus on the wear of the bushings. Therefore, a sudden knock and slight bounce in corners will be clear signs of an impending replacement of components.

As a popular method of checking the bushings for serviceability, it is proposed to move in the 2nd gear of the "speed bump" obliquely. There was a dull thud in the area of ​​the pedals - most likely, the Khan's bushings. You can also just crawl under the car to inspect everything yourself. A worn out bushing will please with cracks and abrasions typical of worn out and cracked rubber. These cracks are sometimes also called "daisies" by the car maker.

Also, the rubber of the bushings can simply harden and lose the necessary elasticity. If the stabilizer bushings do not work well, then just swing your hand hard up and down and to the sides of the stabilizer itself. If you feel a backlash, squeaks and knocks in the lower part of the suspension, then the bushings have become unusable.

But for the best result, it is better, of course, to drive onto an overpass, inspection pit, or use a lift. Of the tools, you only need a crowbar or a mounting blade, which you just need to rest on the bottom of the car and slightly "shake" the stabilizer, in the places where it joins the body. If you feel a noticeable backlash or a loss of elasticity is found, then it's time to think about replacing the bushings.

List of required tools

You definitely need to have the following set of tools: new bushings; to unscrew the subframe bolt, an open-end wrench of size 24 is required; keys for 17 and 15; for unscrewing screws from the motor protection - a key for 10; for fastening bolts - a key 13; clamps made of metal material for 20 - for clamping the stabilizers, since the old ones must be replaced; anti-scale and rust treatment agent - WD 40; graphite grease; jack.

Benefits of timely replacement

Every driver will be able to cope with the replacement of bushings on his car, because this process is not a super-complicated repair. You can do everything with your own hands, but if you do not have the time or desire, then it is advisable to seek help from specialists. This will help protect the anti-roll bar from premature wear.

Driving on poor-quality road surfaces will recede into the background if you have previously installed brand new bushings. And in general, the installed new bushings mean the absence of difficulties and problems while driving, as well as comfort and safety.

Replacing the stabilizer bushing "Kia"

Replacing the stabilizer bushings "Kia" provides the following algorithm: Raise the front of the car and dismantle the wheels. Find the steering shaft and make a mark (for easy further installation in the original place), remove the mounting bolt. Raise the gearbox using a jack, unscrew the rear cushion and subframe. To facilitate access to the rear cushions, four bolts are removed to secure the subframe. Jack up the front section of the subframe. Remove the fastener and treat with an oil solution to prevent the development of corrosion processes on the metal. Screw them into place only four to five turns.

This is done crosswise to provide additional security and uniform contraction of the plane. Loosen the jack until you can reach the bushing bolts. The bushing on the right side can easily be unscrewed through the engine compartment, and on the left side - from below. Insert the staples. This procedure is carried out carefully so as not to damage the collar on the steering boot. The process is repeated in reverse order. The peculiarities of the Kia Sid car are that the steering shaft has a telescopic view, and therefore it is installed at the last moment.

There are the following types of bushings:

1. Spherical (or "iron") bushing. By design, it resembles a ball joint;

2. Rubber bushing.

Today, more and more popularity is gained stabilizer bushings of polyurethane type. They are quite easy to replace, which is an important plus, and they also have good performance characteristics. Experienced drivers can safely say that these are the most convenient parts.

If there is a malfunction in the area of ​​the stabilizer bush, it must be replaced without fail. Otherwise, it can very badly affect the running and handling of the vehicle. When the bushing is deformed or cracked, some noise may appear in the area of ​​the car suspension (mainly when the car runs into an obstacle or increases speed). In principle, problems in the suspension area are determined precisely from such noises.

For, to make sure that it is necessary to replace the bushings, periodically, it is necessary to carry out a diagnosis of the suspension, after which a malfunction will be identified or prevented.

In the event that it is revealed that it is necessary to replace the stabilizer bush, you can do it yourself. Moreover, there is nothing complicated in this and the procedure is very simple. First, the bolts are unscrewed, with which the clamp is attached. The stabilizer is then pulled to the side and the old parts are removed. Well, and for the final action, a new part is very carefully installed.

It is according to this scheme replacement of both the front stabilizer and the rear... After replacing parts, driving a car will be much more pleasant and comfortable, and various road obstacles will be overcome without any difficulty. Among other things, the new elements will maximize the performance of the racks.

The stabilizer bushings are one of the things that drivers pay little attention to. Roughly speaking, they can be completely removed from the car's suspension and nothing terrible will happen. Yes, the car will start to work a little worse - there will be knocks and vibrations when driving, but the car will continue to drive, and this is the most important thing. But if you want to monitor your car fully, it is recommended, among other things, to pay attention to the bushings and their work.

Why do you need a stabilizer

Before dealing with the direct role of the bushings, you need to understand what the task is on the car at the stabilizer. As the name suggests, this element stabilizes the vehicle. The stabilizer is activated every time the car enters a corner and brakes. When cornering, there is a risk of lateral roll, and when braking longitudinal, and in each of these situations, the stabilizer does everything to keep the car parallel to the roadway.

Structurally, the stabilizer is a conventional rod that connects the subframe to the wheel mount (we can say that with the suspension arm when it comes to MacPherson strut front suspension). In a MacPherson suspension, the camber angle is static and changes as the vehicle rolls. Changing the camber angle will inevitably lead to a decrease in the contact area of ​​the tire with the road. To minimize the risk of such a situation, you need to reduce the roll force, which is what the stabilizer does. In fact, we can say that it takes on the role of a torsion bar: at the slightest probability of lateral roll, the transverse ends located in the levers begin to move in different directions, thereby twisting the middle part. The moment that occurs during such a movement is sufficient to prevent the wheels from continuing relative movement, which reduces roll.

Purpose of stabilizer bushings

The stabilizer bushings are extremely important for the correct operation of the entire mechanism. Since the stabilizer must necessarily be able to twist from multidirectional forces on the left and right wheels, it is customary to mount it with bushings. In the process of operation, the stabilizer bushings begin to wear out, and a backlash occurs, which leads to the malfunction of the entire mechanism, increasing the freedom of the part. If you do not take any action to eliminate the backlash (replacing the stabilizer bushings), all sense in the stabilizer operation will disappear - the car will begin to roll in corners.

How to change stabilizer bushings

Replacing the stabilizer bushings is a fairly simple process that can be performed at almost any service center. Also replace worn parts you can do it yourself, if you have all the necessary tools.

To replace the stabilizer bushings you will need:

• The lift, since the work will be carried out under the car;
• New stabilizer bushings. Basically, the hub is just a regular piece of rubber, so there is no critical need to purchase original parts. On sale you can find a lot of analogues from well-known manufacturers, for example, from Sidem and Sasic;
• A pair of keys (or heads).

Anti-roll bar bushings are an integral part of the system that ensures the lateral stability of the machine when cornering. During turning, the centrifugal force tends to tilt the body in the opposite direction, and the torsion bar of the stabilizer, using bushings attached to the body and suspension, resists this influence. Over time, the bushings wear out, deteriorate and become unusable, after which they must be replaced. We will show you how to determine if bushings require replacement and how to change them.

What are bushings for?

The anti-roll bar works on the principle of a torsion bar - a twisting beam, due to which a change in the height of the right wheel relative to the left leads to twisting of the steel bar from which the stabilizer is made. The task of the bushings is not only to attach the stabilizer to the body, but also to reduce the noise level of the entire system. The rubber or polyurethane from which the hubs are made has good strength and elasticity, so that the change in the height of one of the axle wheels passes without knocking and squeaking. In addition, it is impossible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the suspension and body, due to the fact that as it bends, the distance from the edge of the stabilizer to the attachment point of the suspension also changes. Very often, faulty bushings make various sounds - knocks, squeaks, especially during the passage of speed bumps or in sharp turns. This is due to the fact that the sleeve either loses its elasticity, becoming too stiff, or sand or dust is packed under it.

How to check the bushings

Checking the bushings consists of two stages:

• visual inspection;
• mechanical impact.

To check the bushings, the car is rolled onto a pit or overpass. It is undesirable to carry out these works on the lift because the stabilizer has to be pulled strongly to check the bushings, and this can lead to the fall of the machine. It is all the more undesirable to use jacks, because by pulling the stabilizer a couple of times, you will overturn the car on yourself. The consequences of such a development of events are not difficult to predict. Even a quick arrival of rescuers and emergency delivery to the hospital will not avoid serious harm to health. If the rescuers are late, then you can die from crash syndrome, internal bleeding or pain shock.

The purpose of the visual inspection is to detect cracks and breaks in the bushings. If at least a small crack or gap is found on any bushing, then the entire set must be replaced. For mechanical action, grasp the stabilizer near the bushing connecting it to the suspension, and begin to pull strongly in different directions. If squeaks or knocks occur during this process, the bushings must be replaced. Do not be afraid to damage the bushings, body or stabilizer, because the loads while driving are much stronger than you can create, even tugging with all your might.

How to replace bushings front and back + Video

Unlike the check, which only needs to be done on a pit or overpass, the bushings can also be replaced on a lift or jack and two stands. For more information on how to properly raise a car on jacks, read the article (safety precautions for car repair and maintenance). To replace the bushings, you need the following tools:

• set of socket and open-end wrenches;
• metal brush;
• soap solution;
• graphite grease.

Preparations for replacing stabilizer bushings are the same on all machines. Hang up the front or rear of the machine, make sure the machine does not fall, then remove the wheels and engine guard (if installed). After that, use an iron brush to clean all the bolts and nuts securing the bushings to the body or suspension. Often, the bushings that attach the stabilizer to the suspension are made in the form of a part with two holes and silent blocks installed inside. It is much easier to replace such bushings entirely, rather than individual silent blocks. It will cost a little more, but you will not have to worry about pressing out old silent blocks and pressing new ones.

The only difficulty that arises in the process of replacing the bushings is the difficulty in unscrewing the bolts holding the bushings and clamps to the body. It is especially difficult to carry out this work on a machine with a stretcher, so it is necessary to tune in to hard work in difficult conditions.

• First of all, disconnect the stabilizer from the suspension;
• Then unscrew the bolts securing it to the body and pull the stabilizer out;
• The old bushings are removed from the stabilizer, cleaned of dust and dirt and washed with soap. This procedure allows you to remove dust from the surface of the stabilizer, because dust is a strong abrasive that can quickly make a new bushing unusable;
• Now the new bushings are smeared from the inside with soapy water and put on the stabilizer;
• Then the stabilizer is inserted into place and screwed to the body and suspension.

It is advisable to lubricate the threads of bolts and nuts with graphite grease, this will keep them from sticking and facilitate the next replacement of the bushings. Then they put on the protection of the engine, wheels, tighten the nuts or bolts and remove the car from the stands or lift.

The suspension of any modern car consists of elastic elements that perceive the unevenness of the road. Further, the transverse beam redistributes the accepted forces and displaces the wheels. This whole system of levers and beams is called the car's anti-roll bar.

The purpose of the anti-roll bar is to keep the vehicle stable when external forces change, such as when cornering. The lateral force resulting from this maneuver is capable of overturning the vehicle if the body rolls significantly. By virtue of its design feature, the anti-roll bar evens out the lateral force acting on the outer and inner wheels in relation to the bend. Depending on the type of drive, the stabilizer can be made in the form of a single curved beam or a system of levers.

Typically for dependent suspension a car is characterized by one curved element, for an independent one - a system of levers. To avoid noise caused by movements of the stabilizer elements and vibration damping, the stabilizer is attached to the body by means of elastic elements - bushings.

The stabilizer bush absorbs vibration from the suspension assemblies, thereby providing a smoother ride and less noise.

The bushing is an elastic part made of rubber by molding. The shape of the hub may differ depending on the structural elements of a particular vehicle, but in general the shape is similar. To increase durability and reliability, on some models the bushing is reinforced with lugs and grooves. The wear of the bushing is visible visually - cracks and abrasions appear on it, the bushing becomes hard and inelastic.

When is it time to replace the stabilizer bushings?

If the stabilizer bushings are malfunctioning, the following symptoms appear:

Steering wheel play when cornering;
Steering wheel beating;
Manifestation of characteristic clicks when the car body rolls;
"Yaw" of the car when driving;
Car drift when driving in one direction;
Vibration in suspension units;
The appearance of extraneous noise during the operation of the suspension

If you find these signs, we recommend that you sign up for the diagnosis and repair of the car's suspension.

In the event of a malfunction of the anti-roll bar bushings, the following work is performed:

Car wash;
Lifting the car on a lift;
Removing the wheels of the car;
Removing the fender liner or other plastic protection;
Removing fasteners from stabilizer elements;
Removing the mount from the stabilizer bush bracket;
Replacing the bushing with a new one.

On some car models, to facilitate the bushing replacement procedure, it is necessary to remove the engine crankcase protection. Assembly is carried out upside-down. For ease of installation of this elastic element, the sleeve is split.

The stabilizer bushings must be replaced after 30 thousand kilometers or when the above signs of malfunctions appear. To avoid "yaw" of the car when driving, both stabilizer bushings are replaced, regardless of the degree of wear of both. To increase the service life of the anti-roll bar elastic element, at each maintenance it is necessary to clean them of dirt, since its particles in the coupling between the bushing and the stabilizer link are a source of additional wear.

The car's suspension is the first to meet all the irregularities in the path of the car, taking all the blows from pits, bumps and other "pleasant" surprises with which our roads dazzle. Each suspension unit has its own specific purpose, but in the aggregate, they are all designed to dampen the shock loads that arise when the machine is moving, as well as to ensure the proper handling and stability of the vehicle when cornering or making sharp maneuvers. Parts such as the anti-roll bar bush often need to be replaced. The work can be done by hand.

A little about the car suspension

It is not difficult to guess that the level of safety and comfort on the road for both the driver and passengers is almost directly dependent on the serviceability of the suspension, as well as how well it copes with its tasks.

Each component of a car's suspension is aimed at a specific function. The levers together with the trunnions hold the wheel in the required plane, parallel allowing it to rotate freely in two different planes (the moment of entering the turn).

Shock absorbers dampen vibrations that occur during movement, thereby ensuring the smooth running of the vehicle. The springs are at the same time designed to ensure the rigidity of the suspension and the return of its components to their original condition.

The main units and components of the front suspension of the car

But there is another important detail in the suspension, without which not a single modern car is not bypassed. And this detail is a stabilizer. It can be easily seen if the car is driven onto a lift or placed on an inspection pit. On the front axle, among the springs, shock absorbers and other levers, a curved steel bar will be easily noticeable, which is fixed with one shoulder to the subframe, and the other to the wheel hub. The stabilizer mounts are not rigid and allow it to move along the axis in one plane.

In the design of the suspension, the stabilizer appeared at the dawn of the automotive industry, when speeds began to reach 20 km / h and higher. The introduction of this element into the suspension design made it possible to maintain the stability of the vehicle during cornering and maneuvering.

Thus, the main task of the stabilizer during movement is to distribute the weight of the car body over all its wheels in the event of a roll. In particular, this applies to cases of rather sharp turns or when there is a sudden change in the trajectory of movement.

The principle of operation of the anti-roll bar

On a fairly common type of McFerson suspension today, the stabilizer is a torsion bar, which works in torsion. This element is rigidly connected to the car body or subframe. The forces generated in the suspension are transmitted to the stabilizer through additional levers, which are communicated with the suspension due to the hinges. This simple scheme allows you to prevent even a serious roll of the vehicle, and even more so its rollover.

The rear axle is most often equipped with this type of stabilizer in the case of a vehicle all-wheel drive... If we talk about cars with rear-wheel drive and a solid beam on the rear axle, then the role of the stabilizer is given to the reaction rod, also known as the Panhard rod.

Also, a number of Japanese off-road vehicles at one time, in addition to the Panhard thrust, were additionally equipped with another stabilizer, which, in the form of a curved thrust, went along the rear axle beam and communicated with the power components of the body through small levers.

Stabilizer bushings. Malfunction symptoms. Consequences.

For the best damping of vibrations and forces acting on the car body, the vast majority of suspension elements are connected by means of elastic elements. The same goes for the stabilizer. For its fastening, special bushings (rubber bands, pillows) made of durable rubber or polyurethane are used. Over time, as the vehicle is used, these bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose their elasticity. This results in unsatisfactory operation of the stabilizer =. More serious defects may begin to appear, which will only grow faster over time.

Diagram of the stabilizer device and its fastening elements

The first symptom, foreshadowing the replacement of the bushings, will be a slight knocking of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed with "tired" shock absorbers. Only in the case of bushings, it will be heard not only on pits and bumps, but also when entering relatively sharp turns. At the same time, the car often feels excessively wobbly and sluggish. The resulting knock will be the result of a backlash in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to worn out bushings.

If measures are not taken in time, the knocking will only intensify in the future and will begin to accompany the work of the suspension everywhere due to the increasing deformation and destruction of the bushings. Body roll and excessive play in the steering wheel may occur. It is possible to "yaw" the car not only in corners, but also in cases of braking or lane change. Most automakers advise changing the stabilizer bushings every 30-40 thousand mileage. However, in our conditions it is better to focus on the wear of the bushings. Therefore, a sudden knock and slight bounce in corners will be clear signs of an impending replacement of components.

As a popular method of checking the bushings for serviceability, it is proposed to move in the 2nd gear of the "speed bump" obliquely. There was a dull thud in the area of ​​the pedals - most likely, the Khan's bushings. You can also just crawl under the car to inspect everything yourself. A worn out bushing will please with cracks and abrasions typical of worn out and cracked rubber. These cracks are sometimes also called "daisies" by the car maker.

Stabilizer bush and bracket for fixing it

Also, the rubber of the bushings can simply harden and lose the necessary elasticity. If the stabilizer bushings do not work well, then just swing your hand hard up and down and to the sides of the stabilizer itself. If you feel a backlash, squeaks and knocks in the lower part of the suspension, then the bushings have become unusable.

But for the best result, it is better, of course, to drive onto an overpass, inspection pit, or use a lift. Of the tools, you only need a crowbar or a mounting blade, which you just need to rest on the bottom of the car and slightly "shake" the stabilizer, in the places where it joins the body. If you feel a noticeable backlash or a loss of elasticity is found, then it's time to think about replacing the bushings.

Stabilizer Bush Replacement Process

Replacing the bushings will not take much time. You just need the right tools, plus a well-lit and comfortable working area. It is unlikely that the average driver will have access to a professional lift during work, so it is better to get a pair of jacks and a special rigid support in advance.

The tool you may need

1. Open-end wrench and possibly a ring wrench.
2. Ratchet with extension.
3. Vorotok.
4. Cap head.

Tools Required to Replace Bushings

Work order

• The machine is hung out on jacks and securely fixed.
• Wheels are removed. The crankcase protection and wheel arch liners are also dismantled.

View of the stabilizer pad before starting work

• The next step is to raise the lower lever with a jack or place an emphasis under it. If the bushings on the side of both wheels are changed (which is highly recommended), then it is better to place stops under the axle of the front wheels or use a jack. All this is necessary in order to remove the load from the stabilizer beam and facilitate further replacement of the bushings.

Jacks up the lower arm for easy rubber band replacement

• Further, you can loosen on both sides of the attachment of the anti-roll bar to the car body or subframe. In case of difficulties with the bolts due to contamination and oxide - treat them with a "vedashka" or other similar solution to facilitate their subsequent unscrewing.
• The bushing mount and the bushing itself are removed. The latter, for the most part, are now made cut, which greatly facilitates the process of their removal.

The old bushing is removed from the stabilizer

• A new bushing is taken and put in place of the old one. Experienced auto repairmen recommend washing well and wiping the part's seat on the stabilizer. You can also lather the sleeve a little to make it easier to move, or use a special lubricant, which is often included in the repair kit.

A pre-lathered or greased new bushing is installed

• The bolts of the sleeve clamp are tightened.

New bushing at the end of all work

• The jack or support is removed from under the lever and the wheel is placed.

It must be understood that the device and the complexity of the suspension on different cars may differ significantly and the above instructions are not universal in nature. But for a general understanding of the process and order of work, it is more than enough.

A selection of videos on replacing bushings on various cars

Replacement for VAZ: video guide

Replacement for Renault Megan 2: video instructions

Replacing the rubber bands of the stabilizer on the Chevrolet Aveo

Replacing stabilizer bushings on Hyundai Solaris (Accent)

Replacing bushings is not a difficult or time consuming task. Everything about everything can take an hour and a half or two. But in the price lists of the service station, this service does not belong to the expensive section. So here everyone decides for himself whether to be confused in the garage for an hour or two, or to give the car to the masters and do more pressing matters.